Harbor Freight 10 Inch Drill Press vs 8 Inch Drill Press
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- Опубликовано: 12 апр 2018
- One of my viewers was looking at Harbor Freight Drill presses wanted to know the differences between the Chicago Electric 10 inch and 8 inch drill presses. At first glance it seemed like they were pretty much the same. But, after taking a closer look there are a number of important differences that may well make the upgrade worth the money. I hope you find this video useful. If so, please press like and share with your friends. I'll be coming out with more videos soon so be sure to subscribe. Thanks for watching and good luck on your projects.
Check Out Current Pricing:
** Craftsman 10" Drill Press
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** Ryobi 10" Drill Press
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** Wen 10" Drill Press
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I bought the 8” today and now have drilled multiple sized holes with twist drills, forstner bits and a hole saw. I usually have a rule about not buying power tools at harbor freight. I gave in to this for a small wood project I’m doing. I figured that my usual business (glass and mirror) doesn’t normally require a drill press so I wasn’t concerned about getting machine shop rigidity or quality. I have to say, I am super surprised and happy with this machine!
Adam Oliver Thanks for stopping by and sharing your impressions of this drill press. I know others will benefit from your sharing.
Also on the 10" you're able to attach a mortising kit for a square bit on it which you can't do on the 8"
Thanks for pointing this out!
Thank you for your in depth comparison, I highly appreciate it, subscribed!
zdringy You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel, and thanks for subscribing.
A great video Thank you, Lot of good info.
Great job on the dimensions. Very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! Detailed and very informative.
You're welcome!
Great comparison, thanks
This is exactly the information I needed
Hey Justin, glad I could help. Cheers!
Brilliant evaluation! Thank you for this. 🤗
Glad it was helpful!
This is a great comparison. Thank you
stgreen78 You are most certainly welcome and welcome to my channel. Thanks for stopping by.
The worm gear inside the crank on my 10" slips a lot. I just took the plate off, removed the worm gear, shaft, and crank. I sealed up the hole left by the staft and packed the void full with moly grease and put the plate back on.
Now, I just loosen the retaining ring and smoothly slide the table up and down the rack, with the pinion in the box spinning in its bath of grease. Smooth as a baby's bottom.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing!
Good information. Thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great review. Thank you.
Samaan - You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel! Cheers!
A problem with inexpensive drill presses is the runout and slop in the spindle. The runout in these machines is the combination of chuck and spindle bore inaccuracies.. Also a consideration for accuracy is the depth stop. The one on the handle has the slop in the rack and pinion of the spindle. The other is more accurate and is similar to those used on much more accurate milling machines. A quick change nut "might" be available which saves a lot of time. Like was stated in the video, the 300 rpm version is far more flexible. If you want to drill stainless, tool steel, or high carbon steel you need low rpms. There is simply no way around it.
Abraham Lincoln - Yes, the lower end drills are definitely not for projects requiring high levels of precision. Thanks for stopping by and sharing. Cheers!
Thank for the thorough info
Glad it was helpful!
Very very helpful, thank you very much
You are most certainly welcome.
Nice info. Thinking I'll go for the 10in
Skynet T-800 Thanks, I think you'll enjoy using the 10 in.
This is very well done. Neutral, unbiased. Very helpful but what is the difference in power as applied to a project?
James Scott I don't recall there being much difference in the power of these two drill presses as long as you applied the pulley configuration correctly. Thanks for stopping by and posting.
Great, informative video!!!!
CriticallyCorrect1 You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel. Thanks for stopping by.
excellent for first time buyers like myself....thanks
J- You are certianly welcome and welcome to my channel. Thanks for stopping by.
Thanks! Exactly the comparison I was looking for
Ready2Play You are certainly welcome, and welcome to my channel. Thanks for stopping by, Cheers!
Excellent Job !. I almost bought the wrong (8") drill press. I drill steel and need the 10"
Thanks for stopping by and commenting. I punched about 10 additional holes thru a squat rack I used to have. Finding the right bit and speed took a while to dial in. Thanks for stopping by!
Useful information. Thank you
Glad to know you found it useful. Cheers!
@@WorkMateGuy So useful that I did not drive 8 miles to my beloved Harbor Freight store yesterday. My WEN drill press from Amazon is due to arrive tomorrow.
I love your voice. Really nice tone. You should think about doing audio books as well. I can listen to your videos all day long. Thank you for the video, really helpful.
Working _Man Thank you so much for your compliment. I try to do my best to provide a pleasant listing experience and so as video. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
Thanks for the comparison. Helps. Too bad you don't have the 13" or other larger version to show. Trying to find the most bang for the buck shopping these.
You are certainly welcome. Thanks for stopping by. Cheers!
The 10" table can be spun out of the way. Just loosen the locking lever and push it out of the way, left side.
Jack Thomas Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
Jack Thomas it doesn’t seem that would work, it has the gear strip used by the height adjustment crank. Doesn’t appear that will move, therefore making the table not move.
@@mrmgjohnson The rack is sandwiched within two rings. If it is properly setup it will rotate. Too tight and it won't move, too loose and you have slop and the rack and pinion mechanism can bind. Worse case it will bend the rack.
Good video. You have a great speaking voice. I think you should have tightened the collar BEFORE measuring the angle from table to post. You should always work with a tight collar. I would have liked to have seen the angle measured from table to drill bit, in both directions. It would have been good to measure how flat the tables are.
3:58 You actually don't have do this measurement. This measurement is implied by the name of the drill press. 10" vs 8" refers to the drill press "swing". Drill press swing is the distance from the center of the spindle (where the drill bit would be inserted) to the support column (the pole that holds the drill press upright) multiplied by "2". So a drill press with a 10" swing is able to drill a hole in the CENTER (5") of a 10" circle (or square) piece of material, and a drill press with an 8" swing is able to drill a hole in the CENTER (4") of an 8" circle (or square) piece of material.
Good points. Cheers.
That's very helpful- I never understood the size of drill presses!
Thank you
You're welcome
Yes, I don’t think I could get used to the way the depth adjustment is on the 8 inch one. I have a 25 year old floor standing Grizzly that uses the same adjustment as the 10 inch one. That feature is worth the extra money. But I would probably buy a Wen which appears to be made nicer.
I think a cast iron base and a crank to adjust the height most 10 inch models offer is also worth the extra cash.
Thanks for stopping by and sharing!
Does anyone know the chuck replacement for the 10 inch drill press?
Great comparison, I have 1 specific question I don't think you mentioned if you wouldn't mind? How do you go about locking the arm down @ a specific depth? For people who might attach an xy table for small milling of wood, what locks the arm in a lowered position & keeps it locked in place as to be hands free not having to keep lowering the swing? I'm mostly interested in how that's performed on the 8" model but curious if the 10" is the same. Thank you very much
HKGuy Snowman#1 Thank you for stopping by and posting question. I have the 8 inch model and as far as I can tell there is no way to lock the arms out in place. But I've also never had the need to do so. Looking at the manual I'm not seeing anyway to do it. Unless i'm missing something.
@@WorkMateGuy Thanks for getting back, I actually just found out. On the 8"press I guess that little set screw with the nut around it on the right side of press in front of the arm will hold it in locked position at any depth. The nut has to be backed off slightly then the set screw screwed in then retighten the nut. I came looking for help & hopefully left helping you out 😂... Thank you
HKGuy Snowman#1 Thank you so much for this information. We learn something new everyday. Cheers.
Hello! How long is the A/C power cord?
Thanks for your time
Hightower One I believe it is 6 feet.
Square the table up with the drill bit, not the shaft... It's nice to have a 90 deg gauge with a 1/4" round bar at the top to place in the chuck and a flat on the bottom to square up your work surface with the chuck to absolute precision. Squaring it up with some other part of the drill press is silly to me.
Good tip!
You needed a spacer on the 8" when you were placing the square. There was also daylight on the bottom. I bet you would still see that it wasn't level tho.
Hey Super Chile, you are correct. The 8" certainly not an aero space quality machine tool. :-) Cheers!
I'm a noob when it comes to drill presses. Which one would be better to drill holes through 1/4" or 3/8" steel? I assume the 10" but just want to double check and be sure.
I would recommend the 10" just to be on the safe side.
Do you happen to know the column diameter on the 8-inch press? I am trying to figure out if my current table setup will fit this model but cant seem to find if this is a 1-3/4" or 1-7/8" column
It is a tad more than 1-3/4" but not 1-7/8"
Good review man bcuz I'm buy one of these and was going 10" but might stick with 8" (10/22) receiver all metal and there's a 2 or 3 tap holes that I'll do by hand the harder metal less speed right talk to me I'll sub bud and web as well what's your best go to machine
Cory Cas If I had to chose between the two and had a large budget I would go for the larger capacity. However, If you need to do very High precision work then HF is probably not your first choice. Thanks for stopping by and posting.
Hey bud I always thought precision is in th steadiness of bits no wobbling , slow up and down, motion with little dabs of transmission oil with the drill kit package that comes with the item working on bcuz I cannot afford n e thing cheaper then he or Rubio or when and they all have same reviews just about these things go to13 inch right?
Cory Cas The way the drill press is mounted there is a stand and the sturdiness of the housing make a big difference in stability. If there is only a small amount of play in these things then going slow as you describe can compensate to a degree. Thanks for stopping by and posting your comment.
Two things. The eight or ten inch refers to the maximum size of a circle you can drill to. Two, nobody checks squareness or parallelism with the table not firmly locked. Oh, yeah. That rack for the table crank is supposed to move around the column. Loosen up that top collar.
The 10 inch does indeed spin out of the way too. Raise the table about half way up and spin it you'll see.
oLEOresin Capsicum Some good points, thanks for stopping by and sharing.
The size, eight inch or ten inch, refers to the largest circle you can drill to the center. Then, never but never do any drilling unless the table is locked on the column. The vertical error can be compensated by putting a thin shim under the bottom of the table tilting joint. Thickness will depend on how far it's off, trial and error method. Put a shim under it, tighten it down and check it. And Chinese aren't the only ones that have squareness issues, until you get into the good stuff, over five hundred, you will find errors in all of them. Even my 1950s Craftsman floor drill press has error.
Rich Buege Thank you for stopping by and sharing all these useful tips. Sounds like you work with power tools professionally?
Only since 1961. I have an earlier 8 inch from HF, but no stampings, it's cast iron and blanchard ground, although it's still off. Think I paid around $30 back when I got it. If I need something bigger, I have others. Also, maybe regular cutting oil stinks when it's being used, but it also works better for steel than any other oil. Motor spirits for aluminum, brass and cast iron, dry. Keep the speeds down, I'd rather spend more time using the tools than sharpening them.
Rich Buege
Boy, again you provide some really good tips that can only come from decades of experience.
Do a google search on "Lindsay publications", you won't find it, but it will send you to another site, liquidating the Lindsay stock. Should find books on almost every subject in metalworking, old, but more applicable to the machines most of us use. Another one, Audel's machinist and toolmakers handy book, it's on line in PDF. Sometimes that one is on Ebay, reasonable, around $35 usually. Atlas and South Bend, a few others used to publish manuals for their lathes, applicable to anything we're likely to have. Rummage sales, resale stores, sometimes public libraries may occasionally have them. Worth picking up, and I think the Atlas is the best. I still have my dad's.
Rich Buege
Some great suggestions in your post. Its books like these that our manufacturing base was built upon. I am wondering if these concepts are not being lost with the newer generations of machinist???
Which one did you end up keeping?
Hi Itsmeatiq - I ended up with the 8 inch. Thanks for watching.
@@WorkMateGuy Because of the light? Lol
best investment is to buy clippable gooseneck lights LEDs , and some zip ties I put a light on my drill press on my Grindr on my table saw and on my radio arm saw, to put it simply they work brilliantly me on each machine thank you very much for your time have a great day
BATMAN >> OOOUT
Great idea
Does the light bulb in the 8" have a special base that i have to special order from overseas that takes months and costs more than the press..? I just cant imagine it having a screw in base that i may already have or can get at the hardware store. Soooo tired of that shit..!
The bulb is pretty standard here in the US. I have seen this type for more that 60 years.
John MacArthur does tool reviews?
Big Smile... well, at least you did not compare me to a dead comedian as others have. LOL
9:17 Deez Nuts =) - j/k, excellent and informative review, thanks
Team Alpha Flight You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel. ;-) Cheers.
TO ENSURE THAT THE DRILL IS ENTIRELY
PERPENDICULAR TO THE TABLE,
insert a straight round bar (not included)
in the Chuck (72), place a square on the
Table (54) and bring it up to the round bar.
Adjust the angle as needed
When everything else fails read the directions.
manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60238.pdf
4JohnAl8 Thanks for stopping by and sharing. I know many others will appreciate this.
Of course you can spin the 10 table out of the way - that's not hard.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting. Cheers!
Another few dollars to add to the $10.5 trillion Chinese bill.