Crank length: Why I switched to 165 from 170
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2018
- Crank Length: Why I switched my road and cyclocross cranks from 170 to 165. Here's a link to Amazon of what I got: amzn.to/2yM0Esg
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While I have seen many videos about this, this has been the best explanation.
Fantastic explanation ! most channels leave you confused or biased one way or the other. Your step by step expansion showing and explaining was brilliant.
Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Epic explanation of why one should consider shorter cranks. This is exactly what I was feeling after fitting my bike. I looked at my cranks and just knew that was the hip issue I was having. Thank you so much for the details.
Glad it helped
Great explanation, I just changed to 165 after so many years using 172 and I noticed the difference, awesome video.
Glad it helped
I changed to 165 from 175 for the reasons you discussed due to a hip operation I had as a kid 25 years ago had a lot of impingement pain and doing this has help dramatically.
Just finished this video from the link you provided. Thank you! I was considering a shorter crank as I noticed pedaling in the saddle was less painful. Makes sense. I always fitted my fixed gear bike with 170 cranks. I live in a very hilly trail area and climb a lot. I am trying to be optimistic that my quad, or whatever is ailing me will heal. I have an ultrasound scheduled for Monday. Two surgeons and my primary care dr. do not know what it is. Lots of knee stuff is diagnosed " patella femoral" without precision. Returning to cycling has been so much fun. I'll review more of your videos. Thanks much
Did it help your quad? I have a right quad issue and the range of motion when bent over and lifting the knee to the chest is more restrictive in my R leg and quad muscle always hurts after the long rides.
there is a lot that Medical science do not know....
Yes!!! Perfectly, totally agree. I am 40 years old now, always ride 170 cranks. Recently i build myself a fixie and just happened to ge a pair of 165mm cranks, and that works really way much better than 170.
i will test 165mm more often, and planning to switch my TT bike to 165 either.
Great explanation on the benefit of a shorter crank length. thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent, concise, well stated explanation for why going to a 160mm crank is a great idea. I tore my ACL 5 years ago and for a few years could not even ride a bike because my knee did not bend enough to allow me to even pedal. It is better now, but now all better. I can see how not having to lift my knee/hips up when at the crank high point as much as my current 172.5mm cranks do would benefit my knee and riding overall. I am now going to be shopping for a 160mm crankset! Thanks again!
Thanks for watching! BTW I have another channel called "Cycling in Southern California" that's just about cycling if you like.
What's your inseam or height ?
30" inseam at 5'10"
Excellent Info. Appreciate your knowledge and assessment. Being a surgeon myself , I am impressed. Regards from India
Thanks for watching! BTW I have another channel called "Cycling in Southern California" that has newer cycling only videos, if you're interested.
I'm 6foot2 and I just changed from 175mm(ultegra 52/36t crank)that came on the bike to a 170mm(similar to my comfortable peloton trainer)..I've noticed the small pain in my hip went away when I would pedal in the drops..plus I can put out more power with ease..thanks Doc..
Great info! I've been on 175's for years of racing and training. I now ride just for fitness. As I'e aged I've lost some leg length and over all height. I've considered going to shorter cranks and your explanation has been the best for the reason's to go shorter. I've lost 2" in overall height, about 1 1/2 centimeters in leg length.
It's normal as you get older. It sucks but we're not 19 year old 4% body fat machines anymore
thats true Adam...i feel a lot comfortable when i switched to crank length 165mm from 170mm from 175...and made adjustment of my bike fittings. although i still have my longer cranks....i'll have to refit it to a reusable 165mm length...
Totally back up everything you said. I switch to 170s from 175s about 7 years ago after noticing less knee pain after spin class. Both road and mtn have been 170s since. I just swapeed my new mtb from 175 to 165. Being tall 6'2" I have enjoyed the snappy pedaling acceleration and not needing my leg to go up so high into my chest. I have very tight hips so your spot on with your observations. Time and setup will tell how the 165s work out on the new mtb
Thanks for sharing!
Very helpful. My lbs just replaced my crankset and put 170s on instead of the 172.5 that was on there when I dropped it off. Honest mistake but now I know I’m not crazy for how the bike feels
I'd basically came to the same conclusion myself after working for a year to find my sweet spot on seat height. When the seat is too high my hips rotate too much and I get knee and hip pain. When the seat is too low I also have knee pain and hip pain. Problem is that sweet spot is less than 5mm wide. This would also be a great opportunity to switch to compact cranks but the FC-6750 set in the link above is no longer available and the 165mm is what I was already thinking as well. Currently have FC-5600 172.5 53/39 configuration with 130BCD rings.
Nice and succinct, glad someone out there is not pretending this is rocket science .
Very good and clear explanation.
Glad it was helpful! BTW, I have another channel called "Cycling in Southern California" if you like.
@@AdamJStoryDC great..i will look for it thanks..
I ride 172.5mm and have been struggling to get aero on my bars for Triathlon. Just had 165mm delivered - can't wait to try them out
Oh boy. You're in for a treat once you get used to them.
My road bike has 170mm cranks. In my drops, my thighs will sometimes hit my stomach. This is partly dependent on how many fries I’ve had, to be fair. Right now, my hip mobility is fine, and I don’t see an urgent case to switch the whole fleet out. However, from here on, all my cranks are going to be 165. It’s still not easy to find 165mm cranks second hand, and aftermarket availability can be spotty. Also, almost all the bikes in my size come stock with 170s. The industry may be a bit slow to change. Also, group set manufacturers frequently don’t have 165s available in all levels, e.g. GRX 800, SRAM Rival, Campy Chorus lack 165s. It’s even trickier if you are using a crank power meter.
I am 36 yo. Last fall i switched from my trek AL (170mm) crank to a pinarello Roubaix (172mm crank). Obviously, i am riding longer distances and higher pace, but, at the same time i ve developed a hip inpingment 😢. The biomechanics of longer cranks more pain makes sense to me, but i need to test it.
Thanks for the comprehensive explanation
Great video.Your analysis has biomechanical sense. Very nicly explained. Going through same issue. Eight month of physio! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very true...i switched to 165 too, from 172.5mm.
You don't mention your height (I don't think), but even for a younger rider, shorter cranks may be more appropriate for a shorter rider. I'm 64 y.o. and about 1.72 m (that's about 5'7" in American currency) ;-) I've only recently discovered all of this useful information about crank length, and am surprised it doesn't come up more often. When I had the drivetrain of my 1997 MTB upgraded about 3-4 years ago, the mechanic fitted 175 mm crank arms - the subject of whether this length was appropriate for a short-arse like me didn't even come up in conversation.
I'm now looking at getting shorter cranks - maybe as short as 165 mm, based on all my recent research. My trainer bike has 170 mm cranks and although they feel pretty comfortable, there is that feeling of tightness at 12 o'clock, that you mentioned. With one total knee replacement and advanced arthritis in the other knee, I think 165 mm cranks will be kinder. It's at least worth trying, especially as I have been bumping up my mileage this year.
Yes! This. I rode 170s for years and was frustrated that my knees hit my chest when I rode in a tucked position. Changed to 165s and problem solved!
I fixed the impingement in my left hip with a resistance band.
An added bonus for us mountain bikers, less pedal strikes with obstacles such as rocks
That's right! Good point
I found having knees slightly lower at the top of the stroke gave me much more power. Therefore, my approach has become find the seat position that gives me the greatest amount of power based on my knee position at the top.Then adjust the crank length for the bottom of the stroke.
Nice video, I've also read a lot of articles also recommending shorter cranks
After suffering from Patellofemoral pain syndrome I decided to order a 165mm crankset
Looking forward to see if it improves my pedal stroke/knee pains 🤞
It probably will, but time will tell.
Mate your channel is amazing. You have literally made a video on all of my issues or questions floating around in my head.
Do you think shorter cranks will help with knee issues as well?
When I started cycling I didn’t have a proper fit, which ended with a bad injury in my left knee that kept me off the bike for almost 2 years. I’ve been riding 172.5 cranks. Briefly rode a MTB with 175mm cranks which aggravated the knee a lot quicker.
I’ve had a proper fit since but ever since the injury my left knee is not the same anymore. I can ride but I have to be careful. If I start doing proper efforts it flares up. Most laterally on the patellar.
Anyway I’m thinking to change to at least 170mm or maybe even 165mm cranks for comfort and to help the knee.
What do you think? Cheers
Sounds like you need to try this: ruclips.net/video/VuIYGwDAveI/видео.html
Depending upon your height, IMHO go shorter. It has the effect of lessening the bend at the top of the pedal stroke. It's like if you were doing squats and didn't squat down as deep. Make sure you raise the saddle as well. Buy some cheap ones first and if you like them, then you can buy a more expensive model. If you know a LBS, maybe they can loan you one or at least you purchase it and if you're not happy, return it for a credit.
Adam J. Story, DC Great, I will definitely try the lacrosse ball. I have just started to do VMO exercises as well. I will let you know how it goes.
I’ve got DuraAce and a crank based power meter but keen to make the switch, even though it’s gonna be costly. 👍🏻 Might just get some 105s for testing. Cheers
Awesome video
Thanks for the visit
going from 175 to 165 right now on MTB - looking to reduce hip rotation as explained as well as reducing pedal strike
Changed my crank length 5 years ago from 165 to 150mm after 44years of cycling. As I was suffering from an ever increasing amount of pain in lower back, hip flexors & knees. Apparently unknown to me for the prior 45 years of cycling, I should have been using 153mm approx length cranks for my leg size of 71cm inside leg measurement. Very little pain since then.
Comfort is more important than anything else. Glad you found a solution!
Hello, where do you get this 150mm arm?
@@roghax85 I modified some Shimano 600 cranks from 170-150mm. On another bike I acquired a secondhand TA crank set on ebay.
@@roghax85 www.aerozinebike.com/product/transmission/crankset/for-road-bike/x-17-series/aerozinex17-a2/
145mm upwards
Thank you sir, even though I ride BMX this helped. I'm 24 and just got back into bmx afyer 10 years. When I rode 175mm was popular now most people ride 160-165. I'm going to pick up a set of 165mm once my 175mm cranks get beat up. Should help alot with spins and tricks cause my legs will be more even. 👍
I have 175's still on my BMX bike (I don't want to sell it) and while it gives more stability at pump tracks, I notice drastically how big of a circles my legs must turn. I think eventually we all will need shorter cranks. Maybe you can borrow some to try out first.
@@AdamJStoryDC Yeah good idea try them make sure I like them first. Thanks.
I recently changed from 172.5 to 165. Thanks for sharing. I’m still getting used to the new crank.
Right on
How are you finding this one month on?
Hi,
I've picked up the bike again because of COVID not making gym visits safe. I raced bikes from 15 years old into the late 90s. I then stopped cycling for almost 20 yrs. Now that im riding again almost everything is coming back, however i've been considering going to smaller crank arm length mainly because I feel that I could achieve increased comfort and efficiency. I dont have pinching or pain, I still have my old race position and am comfortable w/that on a 100+mile ride. Having said that, It has come to my attn that my 172.5s were chosen w/out the available science of today and therefore I wonder?? This video was interesting and helpful.
Thank you
I you have extra $$$ you can try 165 mm cranks, but honestly, if you're not having pinching in the hips and you can ride 100+ without pain, the only reason for changing would be a comfort issue IMHO. Better off spending the money and become a patreon of my channel. Ha Ha. BTW: I have another channel just for cycling called "Cycling in Southern California" with no chiropractic stuff if you're interested.
I too went to a 165 after 30 years of riding a 172.5, at the advice of fitting expert and ride buddy Paraic McGlynn. I deliver better power output, feel better pedaling out of the saddle, and my knees are taking much less of a beating. All around, a game changer for me.
Me too. BTW: I have a cycling channel called "Cycling in Southern California" if you want to look at it.
My bike fitter also told me to consider switching to 165 from my current 170 crank
Holy crap I thought that I was crazy I noticed the on the top of the stroke is I cannot generate torque is after the 2 o’clock position. Great advice I have been contemplating to go shorter.
Glad it helped. BTW I have another channel called "Cycling in Southern California" if you're interested.
Until recently I had no idea about crank length thought they where a standard size and had very bad outer left knee pain with 172.5mm, switched to 165mm and pain is gone. Can enjoy long distance again. (Btw I'm 5' 7"). Cheers for the tip.
Thanks for watching. BTW: I have another channel dedicated just to cycling. It's called "Cycling in Southern California" if you're interested.
I've had this progressively worsening phantom instability that hasn't gone but does seem to be. Bit better, basically no matter what I did I couldn't keep the bike stable and straight and I was all over the place, bike fits never worked. Shorter cranks do seem to have helped slightly (170mm to 165mm). Running a compact chainset but feels harder than a compact normally did, perhaps that's just lack of fitness.
I just ordered a new power meter with 165mm cranks. Up till now I’ve always used 172.5nn but lately I’ve been having some issues with anterior knee pain in my left knee, so changing for that reason. It’s a big change but I’m 50 at Christmas so not not getting any younger 🌼
Hopefully you'll like it after you get used to them.
So many different opinions on this. My old bike I had since a my early 20’s was a 170. I am 38 now and my new road bike is a 175 and it just does not feel right as I cant find the sweet spot. I am looking to order a 170mm crank for it. QFactor was also a big deal and I just widened it with great results.
Right on!
o yeah this is legit...been using 172.5 eversince in my TT bike...i switched to 165mm and oh boy it improved alot of things for me for the better...both TT and roadie now on 165
Overall efficiency also goes up with shorter cranks down to 145mm. This has been known for decades but ego-riders refused to listen ("I need a longer crank for more torque!!!") and only recently have people started to pay attention. I looked at getting shorter cranks for a long time and it's only fairly recently that you can easily get cranks shorter than 170 for a reasonable price. I'm going to 165 when my new frame comes in.
Thanks for watching. I agree. "Longer is better" is an ego thing.
Currently using 172.5mm cranks and thinking to go 165mm. I gather my saddle needs to go up 7.5mm what about the fore aft of my saddle?
I wonder if this would slow down getting arthritis in the first place when you are on your bike a lot.
good stuff! i'm not that old yet only 44, but i landed on a bike with 160mm cranks it's maybe too much. but itm coming to grips with the changes. i always had a slower cadence all my life, but now its weird adjusting to a faster cadence.
Sounds great!
Interesting that I came across this idea just a couple of days before, though it is for a slightly different reason. My thought was for the ease of pedaling and speed gains that probably the switch would be worth it (I'm not a racer, but just an experimenter who likes to try different things). Thoughts on this would be nice.
You will spin more and have less of the "knee's coming up to your chest" feeling. You're not going to go any faster. It will just make you more comfortable. If you have no reason to do it, keep in mind that it's an expensive experiment.
Your hypothesis is spot on. The 10mm (switching from 170mm to 165mm) makes a tremendous difference when you consider how many times the knee will be in the top/high position for long distance riding. More relaxed riding will also cause the rider to feel more comfortable and have more energy at the end of long rides. The leverage lost is so minimal it's not even worth discussing.
Yes, exactly
170mm to 165mm = 5mm
@@obliviondio you have to watch the video to understand why it becomes 10 mm at the top
@@AdamJStoryDC
Reducing the crank from 170 to 165 means you raise the saddle by 5mm. I don't understand where the extra 5mm is coming from.
@@obliviondio the answer is explained in the video. If necessary, consult a bike shop and they’ll explain it better
Have exactly the same bike and color. Great bike, but a new one is being built for me as I write this. Now with 165mm cranks!
Nice!
Wow experiencing this exact problem, my thighs and specifically above my knee caps are always sore and my lower back as well and I do bounce left and right as I'm pedaling hard or trying to keep my cadence and I'm on an entry bike which has a 170 crank arm Def switching too 165
If you're bouncing you should look into your saddle height and if your back hurts you need to work on core strength and flexibility. Also look into raising your bars up.
Recently ordered 165's, bike came with 175 yikes. Should have done it much earlier. You basically confirmed my reasoning on this issue.
BTW, I have another channel called "Cycling in Southern California" you might like.
I am impressed with your explanation but I would like some explanation on my thoughts one I am 5’ 10 “ Inches and ride a 172.5 Millimetres crank if I lower my saddle would that compensate.
That would make my problem worse.
I have limited knee flex due to injury and replacement, so I have a 165mm crank. I did my research on crank length turns out I should have had a crank length of 165mm any way. It’s well worth getting the correct crank length.
Hope it helps!
I'm changing mine as soon as I can afford it. I'm going to put on the sora 2x9 165mm crank from a 172.5. I have some hip and back issues. I just wish I could go even smaller. I have a 30 inch inseam and it's a struggle to stay on the seat. If I could get a 160 or 155mm crank that would be perfect.
All it takes is money...
I see you carry a water bottle on your bike. Do you also carry a air pump? I didn't see one. Like the blue shirt and the blue on the bike. Beautiful scenery. I akways enjoy your videos. Thanks.
Yes. I carry a pump as well.
planning on going 15mm shorter on my mountain bike which is 175mm cranks... what performance upgrades would i experience or is it just to minimize the rocking and osteoarthritis?
My guess is you'll feel like you're spinning and riding a smaller bike at first, then you might notice that your pedals/cranks don't hit the rocks/dirt when you're going slow over a big rock/tree/etc. You'll have to raise your saddle, so your handlebars might feel too low (raise them?), but rocking and osteoarthritis should get better. Jumping - you may feel less stable when trying to have your pedals level, but I never tell my spouse that I'm jumping. I always tell her I'm being careful, so I can't comment on that in writing ;-) but I heard that you'll get used to that.
Do you feel that you need to change gearing in order to compensate for the shorter lever to maintain climbing power?
I use the same gears.
If you go from 175 to 165, and move your seat accordingly, should the bars come up as well or will you hopefully be able to rotate more to reach the same bar height?
The lower hip felxion will allow you to go lower but that is if your body will allow it. It ultimately depends on your fit. The increase in saddle height relative to the handlebar of 5mm will be negligible as long as you dont get back pain while riding.
I’m 5’6 and my crank arm is 172.5.i notice I always have cramp legs after a long ride. Insha allah I will change to 165
Good idea
I had done my bikefit recently and was ask to change my crank length from 172.5 to 165mm and downsize my chainrings from 52/36 to 50/34. I have to change it but will surely do it soon. The reason i was ask to change the crank length is because of my injury on my left knee. I tore me left knee menicus.
Once you get used to it, you'll climb much better!
My main Worry is my injured left knee. Hope that once I change my crankset and chainrings, I won’t feel the slight pain on my knee when I go up slope and cycle faster
@@adrianng2721 It helped me. Hopefully it will help you.
I have a question please: I have my spinous process of my T3 is 1 CM out to right and I have breathing restriction.
I went to 10 Chiropractors and all confirmed that it is not a subluxation. What do you suggest sir?
You probably have a congenitally bent spinous process. If you have a breathing restriction, it could be a rib subluxation, intercostal muscular adhesion, costochondritis, asthma, cartilage disease, etc
Your reply is more than appreciated! @@AdamJStoryDC
Hi there, ive been diagnosed a cam on ly left hip. It doesnt seem to be painfull in the hip (except when i do the internal rotation) but i do have saddle soreness under my right groin / perineum. I also get kneepain on the itb and retinaculum... riding the 172.5 and thinking about to go down to 165. Xhat are your thoughts pls ? Thx in advance
I explain why it's beneficial for the hips in the video in detail.
before you do that try an extra insert in your shoe to see if it s worth doing the full crank change
i mean remove the insert in your shoe
I am absolutely asymmetrical, even my muscles on my calves have formed asymmetrically and are more pronounced on the right... I always kick myself in the stomach when I ride in the drops, because I have a long torso but short legs, would shorter cranks improve this problem a bit?
Yes
l don t see me dropping to a 165 anytime soon but l could see 170 in the future ,l got both 172 &175 ATM and doing ok :)
If you don't have any problems with your current cranks, there's no need to change.
Great info mate, thank you. Please lose the shades while on camera. With the helmet it feels like a torn is talking to me
Sorry about that
Is that a specialised tarmac s12 in video
Roubaix
Hi there. How is the 165 mm on climbing? I’m currently on 52-36 11-30 172.5 but struggling fue to previous knee injuries. If I change my crank length, will I have to change my gears as well ? Thanks for you response
Just the crank length might be good enough, but what about a 50-34?
Gearing is part of the lever and the peer-reviewed research shows that there's no difference in power output when going from a longer, to a shorter crank (in most cases... however if you're a sprinter on the elite level there's some evidence that shows you may be able to generate slightly more power with a longer crank since sprints on that level often happen in a 52 or 53x11). That's only over very short distances, and at insane power outputs. If you think about this, since the gearing *is* part of the lever, so long as you're not in your largest gear, or your smallest gear, crank length is not going to make a huge difference, and there's community consensus on this. You just end up shifting to a smaller gear and spinning a little faster to generate the same power output (also, you don't have to train yourself to spin faster, the observation has been that when switching to smaller cranks, people tend to naturally pedal at a faster cadence than they did with longer cranks). Where it may make a difference for mere mortals is on the hills. In your smallest gear you will lose a little leverage. Whether you notice it or not, I can't tell you (though check back in a few weeks). I'm going from 172.5 to 165 and I enjoy 2000+ vertical foot climbs. To make up for the loss I'm switching from an 11x28 to an 11x30 which more than compensates for the difference (when leverage and gearing is taken into effect, this small change will actually net me a slightly smaller gear ratio than what I was running with 172.5, with a 28 tooth cog).
If you have 165 length of crank arm, you should adjust your saddle height?
Yes absolutely
I’m 5’4 and realized I get spots at the top where I don’t put no power, soft spots or what ever it’s called. So I’m just wondering should I do a 160 or 165, seems like there is not much difference between 170-165, so I was thinking 160 😂
I am short and have short torso
pretty hard to find 160mm cranks for shimano.
Sitting here today agonizing over changing from 175 OEM to 170 cranks. I'm a long time serious recreational cyclist riding about 1500 mi/yr in cold weather states. I also live in CO so just about every ride has some climbing. Just recently I changed the fore/aft position of my saddle for the first time in 33 years of riding and the difference in comfort was amazing as I opened my top dead center angle. I was thinking exactly along your line of reasoning to try a 170. After 4 YT videos, this one was the most convincing...and the shortest!
Michael Patrick good luck. Worst case scenario you won’t like them so just sell them and go back to your old cranks
@@AdamJStoryDC Thanks. That's the plan. I'll be able to do some A/B tests to decide what's best. I'm hoping for better results at the top of climbs or the last 2-3 miles of a ride.
I have 175 on now... but have the 170's in the box on standby
Good idea. BTW I have a new channel called "Cycling in Southern California" if you like cycling. I used to think that chiropractic and cycling went together as they were both healthy...but I was told it confuses the algorithm and people are more interested in weight loss, diabetes, blood pressure and anxiety on this channel. So go to the cycling channel if you want more. Thanks for watching
Why only go down to 165 why not ride 155? or shorter? It seems from your video, and many others that there are no downsides of going shorter? Why do you think that ultra-performance focused riders, such as professional road riders, adopted the "shorter is better" trend?
How tall are you? I think bike geometry plays a very large role to.
It absolutely makes a difference. BTW: I have a new channel called "Cycling in Southern California." Here's a link: ruclips.net/channel/UCVxlY3fBto21-_sZ5hZNNcw
btw cost of new cranks can put people off changing
If a person has pain, limitations in their hips, etc. then the cost of new cranks are cheap.
My heart is not strong. I am 110kg I change to 165 from 172.5 my heart rate changed to high and also my cadence. Should I change to 170mm?
Why not go back to 165?
I have 160mm crank arm, what will happen if i switch to 170 or 165mm?
Everything I said in the video...except the opposite.
I'm 66 now and I still ride 180 mm cranks, they simply feel better and more natural (inseam length 90 cm). I like to ride with a cadence of 90 to 95/min (when climbing as long as the the gears allow that of course), and at no point I feel uncomfortable with it - wether I ride the road bike, the cross country ("gravel...") bike, the commuter/touring bike or even the TT bike, but when I ride shorter cranks from time to time (on borrowed bikes) it feels wrong and not comfortable... so - I don't refuse to change, I simply don't see any benefit
@@fiddleronthebike did you understand why I switched in the video?
@@AdamJStoryDC yes, but I wanted to highlight that what fits one person perfect not necessarily is also the best for another person. And I'm rather convinced that we need more crank length's, not less. Today everybody is told to use 165, no matter wether he/she is 150 cm with bad flexibility or 200 cm with great flexibility, and that is imo nonsense. In the past most bikes where delivered with 175 - that was a catastrophe for small or less flexible riders, But the reduction to small cranks which is now the trend is not really better. Companies should give us way more options - at least from 150 to 190 mm I believe
and btw, I only commented because you encouraged your viewers to do...
@@fiddleronthebike hip impingement. Once you have it… well, when you know, you know.
@@AdamJStoryDC I absolute trust you in this! And for sure those people will be happy to go to shorter cranks. But if you don't have this issue... and we all know the term "use it or lose it" and that is true also for mobility - so I wonder wether it is not a good thing to move your legs at a wider range if you can do it without problems, actually it may help to prevent (or at least slow down) the decrease of mobility (I am not a medical of course, but may be?). For sure not all humans are equal.....
Age 48 and went from 172 to 170 crank. Much better
That's cool. Thanks for watching.
what's your height ?
I also want to switch from 170 to 165, but unfortunately there isn't any 165mm for my Shimano Deore 3x9 crankset, how can I solve that problem?
See if you can solve it. One option is to get a compact 2x Ultegra.
@@AdamJStoryDC hello, thanks for answering.
If I go with x2 than I had to change the cassete also, otherwise I would lose the gear ratio, I'm living in a hilly area.
I found x3 Tiagra this could fit to my touring bike without changing any other component, will check out.
If Tiagra makes a 165, then buy it.
Adam, how tall are you ?
Was wondering the same. I'm 5-10, thinking of moving from 175mm to 170mm
May I know what your height or inseam?
TMI. My height and inseam have nothing to do with why I changed.
Hello, I am using google translator, someone could briefly tell me what the video says, it looks very interesting, thanks.
what langauge you need it in?
but why not go 160mm or lower?
More is not better. Optimal for YOU is better.
Orrr......you should have always had shorter cranks. Don't know your height but, as you may know, many folk in the cycling community are realizing that the old school (leverage long crank is better) way is not scientifically honest. I raced in the late 80s and early 90s. Started on 172.5 w/ 31 inseam. Finished off racing on 170s. Have been running 170 all the rest of my life. Now, I do all the calculations of present and I should be running 165 to 162.5. Of course, barely anyone sells below 165 unless track (so sad, knowing that Sky had been running their guys on super short cranks for a long time). Thanks for the vid. Good info.
That's why I switched. Thanks for watching. Check out my other channel: Cycling in Southern California.
What about knees?
less bending at the top
I am 5'6" tall. I have 4 road bikes, 2 with 170mm 2 with 172.5mm cranks. I ride flats better and climb better on the 172.5 cranks. I am not a climber. But I know what you are saying, but I still think it comes down to what works for you and which you are comfortable with. I think it comes down to if you are a spinner (90rpm) or a masher (less than 90rpm) which you would prefer. Shorter would be better for a spinner.
Yes. As mentioned, it also comes down to orthopedic problems as well.
How much of a difference could it possibly make? It's only half a centimeter difference. Seriously.
1/2 a cm is 5 mm. That's the difference between 165 and 170. Thanks for watching.
@@AdamJStoryDC
Smug answer.
In bikes small geo changes make huge difference in bike fit. Eg the difference between a size medium frame to a size large may be around 2cm. When your body sits in the same position for a long periods of time it definitely counts.
@@tomerg2 absolutely….if you’re over 50 years old and you currently have 170mm cranks, go get some 175’s and see how your hips and back feel… no good
@@AdamJStoryDC May I ask your height and how you decided on 165mm and not shorter?
Ps. I ride a mountain bike, and I'm out of the saddle 99% of my rides. I started suffering from that exact groin pinch you describe, I have a gut feeling shorter crank may mitigate it, but not sure how short I should go
👍👍👍
nah just do yoga, im in my mid 30's and am still improving my flexibility and increased functional range of motion
Give it time young one. FAI can't be cured with pigeon pose.
@@AdamJStoryDC well ill just try to avoid over/mis use of the joint seemingly my genetics have served me well thus far too. and down the road ill likely be an 80 year old yogi since riding a bike will be too dangerous.
@@AdamJStoryDC if you really want to open up hip angle moving your seat forward is much more effective.