Hey Riley, I'm no expert, but the headers over your exterior doorways and windows should be standing 2X6's rather than laying flat like you've done. Your method would never pass code anywhere that I'm aware unless you don't have codes to follow out there in the boonies. Regardless, for peace of mind, every exterior wall should be treated as a load-bearing wall, hence the standing headers. Just my two cents.
They aren't using actual headers because there will be a LVL across the entire wall carrying the load of the 2nd floor wall. I would have used headers and Jack's either way just in case though.
Your window and door headers need to be installed turned so the 6 “ is facing up. Take 2 2x6 with 1/2” plywood sandwiched between. You may also want to use liquid nail adhesive also. There is no strength in a board laying flat. Have fun, looks great !
Riley - use a push stick - NEVER run your hand along the blade when ripping 2x4's on a table saw - you ARE going to lose fingers if you don't stop following bad practice.
that was my exact thought when he was using the table saw too. That, and consider getting some featherboards too (I started using them myself after seeing Paul from Stud Pack using them for all his cuts: ruclips.net/video/8ZmsQaz0tC4/видео.htmlsi=WgYyp57CN67IO13_&t=270 )
@@terrybretz1 I owned a construction company in the past and ran a table saw for years without using a push stick. One day while ripping a 2x4 for the first time in 30+ years the board hit a knot or something (I still don't know for sure what happened). I wasn't using a push stick and THANK GOD I barely missed cutting my fingers off. It was pure luck that I didn't hit my hand/fingers and it was VERY close. I learned my lesson that day. It happened so quickly and was so violent there was nothing I could do when it sucked my hand toward the blade - it happened so quickly. I recognized how blessed I was and have never pushed a board through the table saw without a push stick since.
He is an accident waiting to happen. That's not the first thing I've watched him do that has made me shiver. Too much smiling and playing up to the camera!
Your load bearing center wall should ideally have a stud directly below each floor joist and the door opening in that wall must have a true header to bear the weight from the joists above. Get a short piece of 8” LVL (or double 2x10)with at least one stud under each end of the LVL. Otherwise your joists will sag over that doorway.
Riley, there's a way easier way to make marks to drill the j-bolt holes. Use two people. One person at each end of the board. Put the board on top of the whole row of bolts then eyeball it from the top with your chalk line. Then simply hit the board with a hammer tap on it all the way down it leaves an imprint on the board that's where you drill !!!! I've built many structures like that it works perfect every time.
I’ve watched my son who is a contractor and he always pre assembled walls with top and bottom plates with headers and king studs then it’s tilted up and nailed down to the sill plate! Really need to do some more u tube university guys!
They have no idea wtf they are doing they said they just watched a video about how to build and he they are trying to teach people this is ridiculous I really hope the inspector shows up soon
@@TylersHomeDesign first of all they state in their videos that "this is how we are are doing it" and this may or may not be the correct way to do it. I've been following them since day one. They do take valuable criticism from viewers to improve the integrity of their builds.
@@TylersHomeDesign Well, I don't think their intention is to make a how to video. It is more of a video to show what they are doing and for our entertainment. Nonetheless, I would like and hope that they would build something up to code/spec.
Riley, I have been both an EMT on an Ambulance Squad and an ER Nurse and have done my share of repairing Carpenters who have done things that can only be described as "STOOOPID". If you look at today's' video at 25 minutes and 20 seconds, you will notice how close your fingers are to a rapidly turning saw blade. There is this amazingly simple piece of safety equipment called a push board which can be obtained at no cost by going to your scrap lumber pile and picking up an approximately one foot long piece of 2x4 and using it to push the board you are cutting through the final foot of the cut. Courtney would NOT be happy if she had to pick up your fingers, wrap them in gauze and put them on ice after wrapping you hand and then driving you to the hospital to see if they can sew them back on! (She will probably eventually forgive you - probably - maybe.) Also, FYI, remember the definition a Nurse - "the first person you are going to see when waking up in the ER after saying to your friends - "Watch this!". Other than that, I wait impatiently every weekend for your next episode to begin. I love them. Good luck to you, Courtney, Oliver and all your helpers.
Completely agree with the exception that I understand you should NOT put the severed limbs on ice as it will kill the nerve endings. A clean zip lock back is preferable
@@jomojomo123 not directly in contact with the ice, hence the gauze. Yes to fingers in their own ziploc for cleanliness. You insulate an ice pack to your skin for the same reasons...
Riley did I hear you say the lvl beams will not go on the studs? I’ll wait and see how it turns out but my dad always said the joists or trusses would go on the studs for a straight pressure point to the foundation to help keep the floor or wall from sagging and possibly of a failure. That’s why you build with the 16” or 24” on center. Love the channel.
Always did 16" centers everywhere I've worked...... Pipe wrench can straighten a warped stud. AND building a wall vertically is HARD, assemble it on the floor and set it in place!.
It's a little late now, but a lot of old time builders would also put a thin piece of sheet metal between the foam and the sill plate that would stick out about two inches to the outside of the foundation. The purpose so I've been told is to discourage termites or other bugs. After its installed you fold down the sheet metal slightly and the termites can't make their tunnels and come up and around the sheet metal.
Many people also include a bead of silicon on top and bottom of the foam to keep all the creepy crawlies outside and really keep the building tight and sealed.
I was about to mention that. now that he has not used it, he definatly needs to seal with Butyl caulk at that foam to wood joint before any joists and flooring.
How cool is it to see little Oliver moving around the place on his own two feet. It's great to see your family doing so well, and keeping things real with all the video's .. Thanks for all you do.
I used to do concrete grinding with just a mask, then I found out the hard way that those masks are just effective enough that you think you are not doing damage. As much work as you do, get a dust shroud and HEPA vacuum. Fine Woodworking has a good article. Festool and Makita both make battery powered units.
I've been following you two, Oops, now three, for years, since you first bought the property. Something I have always admired about you is that you don't define work as men's work and women's work. The fact that Courtney can swing a hammer, use a shovel and run equipment is what makes a couple a real team. I lost my dear wife in May but that's the way we lived and loved for the 58 years we were married. Cudos to the Ambition Strikes team. I can hardly wait to see Oliver with a hammer in his hand or at the controls of the Cat. Tommy B in Virginia
Condolences for your wife. It has been four years since mine passed. She would have been so deeply into the work she was like having two people working.
Been doing stuff the hard way with my wife for 30 years. I wouldn't have been able to do half of it without her. Love that you are brave enough to put a camera on it, and show us your progress.
Standard construction techniques I'm accustomed to is to build the walls flat on the ground and then stand it up. You'll have a bottom and top plate. So you end up with two plates on the bottom and two on the top. It cost a little more, but it's so much quicker. I also alway cut my studs the same length and shim between the two bottom plate boards if needed. You even have a machine to lift it into place so you don't have to horse it yourself. Also, framing tolerances is typically within an 1/8 inch, although I like it dead on too.
Very correct on the walls. They are not building with any written plans, that bothers me. Codes are important for legal use to live in, insurance, resale, etc.
Riley, All your headers are framed wrong. That will become a huge problem. You also need wall studs fastened to the concrete and block wall. This will help you sheating.
That’s what happens when you learn from someone on RUclips. Everyone thinks they’re an expert so they post a video. There is a reason all the trades have apprenticeships, so you learn correctly how to do plumbing, carpentry, electrical and masonry…..so a few years later your house doesn’t fall apart or burn down. That’s why most cities have buildings codes.
I agree. I'm not a professional here but have been around and worked some in framing. You need under every window and door frame a stud going to the floor on each end of the horizontal bottom board. Also, from the top of the bottom horizontal board to the bottom of the top horizontal board another stud on each end and a header across every door or window span. Just my two cents. Hope I worded this right and easy to understand.
Love your channel. Always happy when a new video of yours shows up in my feed. I stumbled across your channel back when you were starting your EPIC solar build. Since then I have not missed a single video. There are 2 standout things about your videos. 1. Not only do you guys show when you make a mistake but you go our of your way to not only show the mistakes, but actually make a point of showing how you resolved the issue. Too many channels never show when mistakes are made. 2. I love the way Riley turns into a little kid when it comes to machinery. Making dumptruck number 2 was a highlight. Keep the videos coming guys.
In 1978, my wife and I built a house in 90 days. We knew nothing of construction and bought 2 hardbound books . We purchased a building site for 5000.00 and cleared the land by hand and built the house entirely ourselves from foundation to framing, wiring, plumbing, cabinets and flooring. It was 1300 SF 2 bedroom 2 bath. It cost us 29000.00 including the land. We sold it 3 months after it was finished for 57,000.00 and used that money to buy a fixer upper for 25000.00 which we remodeled and sold for 145000.00.
Looking good, guys. Just a few comments from a retired General Contractor. 1) When doing Advanced Framing (24 inch on center) all of the load points must line up from the foundation to the rafters. That means the floor joists must fall on top of the studs and not off-set on the double top plate as you are planning to do. To be safe, I would suggest you install a stud under each floor joist after the floor joists are installed. 2) I suspect the window sills are lower than 24 inches thereby requiring tempered safety glazing in those two windows. I doubt your second hand windows are tempered. 3) Personally, I would be laminating headers out of 2x material for all those openings instead of a single 2x6 and a few cripple studs (especially above the interior door where floor joists will be resting above it. In fact, I would probably use a steel I-beam or box beam there.)
Code here is 18" or lower for glass requiring tempered/safety. Although I think glazing within 24" of a door horizontally and lower than 60" requires tempered/safety glass in some areas.
Make sure you are using douglas fir for the garage wall to hold up the second story and headers should never be flat, always use the headers on the side for strength. FYI......... Great Job and wholesome family. You guys, Gridlessness, and Tiny Shiny Home are the only channels on youtube
I know all about measuring mistakes - in high school shop, we had a project to make a hot plate trivet, 1/2 in, tall strips arranged in a grid, 5 strips each way in a sort of oversized tic-tac-toe design. Everyone had a different job, mine was to take a measurement, someone else set the table saw blade, someone else CUT a dado into the strips so they could be joined together. NO ONE bothered to check before cutting enough for everyone - I measured from one side, they measured from the other, and they cut the strips (out of Walnut no less) for a class of about 20, and 10 strips per person. Needless to say, none of the trivets were uniform, we spent time grabbing strips from a box, testing each to see if they fit. BUT, 40+ years later my mother still uses this.
Every time I build a building I learn something new. I see lots of comments on here with tips and tricks to do stuff easier. I think this is great I’m learning stuff too.
There is an actual difference between the Green pressure treated boards and the Brown pressure treated. The green pressure treated is for ground contact. It is resistant to rotting when touching the ground or concrete or organic material and is also termite resistant. The brown pressure treated lumber is non ground contact. It is typically used on framing exterior buildings and porches where there is no contact with the ground or organic material.
good to know hadn't actually thought about it but yes making sense feel better about picnic table repair with brown treated board have 50 ,+ tables that been maintaining
The color varies in different parts of the States... Out west, even ground contact boards are brown - just have a higher concentration of preservatives injected. I'm guessing it has to do with the kind of timber used...
Hey Riley, hope these comments fine you’re doing well. On the very first wall that you’re framing to hold up the second floor floor, it should be framed with either 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 material studs and it should be 16 inches on center on center not 24 because it will be caring the load up top. This will make your will much stronger and only cost you 4 more studs. you need to have treated material running along all the concrete surfaces, the horizontal as well as the vertical surfaces. To attach the vertical studs use a (Hiilti gun, Powder actuated guns or ramset ) Powder actuated guns. This will shoot a nail into the concrete so you don’t have to use anchor bolts (just for the vertical studs). you should have 2 king studs and 1 cripple stud, the cripple stud will hold your header up for your opening for your sliding glass door. Wrong with that. Thanks for doing what you do. Love your show…..
It was killing me watching all that extra work. He is framing as if it’s a remodel wall not new construction….sigh all those toe nails sigh. All he had to do was get the anchor holes drilled verify it’s done correctly then pull and build the wall on the ground.
Good morning, Riley, I have been a subscriber watching your video content for about two years now and you amaze me by how you solve situations you are faced with and make it work for you. I enjoy your videos and look forward with my wife for your next uploads. No matter what you do you make it a fun project at least on your posts. Keep doing what works best for you and your family, You didn't get this far without self-knowledge. Constructive comments are just that, you can use them, to help with whatever you are doing or acknowledge them and move on. ( Sometimes too many chefs spoil the soup ) Stay safe with your family.
They definitely need to learn more about load bearing walls and headers though. For door and window openings on the load bearing walls you have to frame different with jack studs to support the headers. And headers need to be sized for the load, often multiple 2x12s to reach thickness. The lbl will save them down here although I question their header in that door open between the two spaces if they have an I joist over the door. the double top plate is not all that holds things up. Those opening have to do more than hold the window/door in place. They have to support everything above them all the way to the roof. Load bearing openings are framed strictly for a reason.
Riley 3 tips...Looks good but get that table saw lowered down away from your face. A board that kicks back will leave a dent in your face or worse. Also make or buy a push stick !!! Don't get your fingers that close to the blade. A lost digit will halt the project. When using the air gun take your finger off the trigger after you fire it. If you are holding it down and bump a board.,your leg, or your helper standing in front of you.The gun will go off. Removing your finger from the trigger becomes second nature after awhile. Safety first man
Riley, I applaud your attention to detail!! I’m always impressed by your can-do attitude and success in learning and executing new skills!! Well done!!👏👏👏
A little carpenters' tip regarding wood that may be exposed to moisture--even treated lumber: Look at the grain from the end of the board. The board should have the up-grain side up. Meaning that if you view the end of the board, the curve of the age growth rings starts low at one end, curves up towards the center of the board, and curves back down on the other end. Like an upside-down U. This helps shed any moisture that may fall on the top or sides of the board. And it prevents moisture from staying inside the board to cause rot, which is what happens if you inadvertently install the board so the grain is shaped like a U. Water will collect inside that U and sit there as if it were sitting in a cup. Carpenters prevent that by installing all horizontal boards so the inner grain is NOT U-shaped, but rather is up-side-down-U-shaped. Especially helpful in attaining great longevity in wooden decking, docks at the lake, railings, and anywhere a horizontal board is exposed to the elements.
Wow, little Oliver can walk now, and from appearances he can walk fast and far!! You guys are building a really cool project! And I'm glad to see you will still have the 'underground' basement garage. Every place needs a garage/shop!
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< I know that woman(Christina Ann Tucker) If you were born and raised in new York you'd know too, No doubt she is the one that helped you get where you are!!
Riley I just wanted to say you didn't have to grind the concrete down at 3/8 of an inch every slab that's ever poured every foot in a report is off just a little bit. All you got to do is cut the studs shorter when you frame it. Love you show you guys are doing awesome lot of work
The floor joists are going to lay on it, he had to grind it, otherwise not only the floor of the house would be wavy but the ceiling of the lower floor and then would have also had to trim the studs.
Around the 18 minute mark where you measure from concrete to straight line...you can save a lot of time by stringing a chalk line and simply marking the stud on the chalk line. I love watching you two work. I hope this trick helps in the future.
If you're unsure of how many studs to use in the basement for supporting the upstairs , just double everything up in the basement or the floors above ! ! Happy Trails from 🇨🇦 to the 🇺🇸 . ✌ out . L8R
I'm not a framer BUT for the headers all that i have seen have the boards long side up and down not flat say like a 2" X 6" its standing on the 2 and going 6 high specially for long spans when they are flat they are going to sag
@@danhard8440 If theres another kind of work you’d rather be doing, your current work should be helping you get closer to whatever that is. Many people wish their lives were different but few take the actions to change things. There’s nothing you can’t do and there’s nothing you can’t learn!
Riley, it is very important to have your walls to be continuous for their complete length. The sill plates on top of the stim walls at each end of the wall should be extended to meet the next full stud and make sure that the stim wall is attached to the basement walls. A metal strap should be installed to tie in the top plate to the sill plates on top of the basement walls.
you might want to check your tape measures side by side to see if they measure the same, i was helping my brother do some framing using 2 different tapes and the boards didn't fit right then we compared tapes and the measurements were different.
Riley, not a good idea to trust only double top plates to bear the weight of the floor joists and the flooring above where your floor joists bear mid spacing between the 24 inch on center studs. You need to add an extra stud under each floor joist. Also your door header needs some beefing up to support the floor joist above the door header.
You mentioned you were watching RUclips videos when you were laying out your sill plates for your J Bolts. The same channel you watched has good videos for framing doors and windows. Makes the project flow easier and better production methods. Love watching your posts, and the fun you bring to the screen.
the faster way to line up the sill plate is to just put it above the bolts where want it to be and hammer it down to create little depressions from the bolts showing you where to drill
I want to frame a house now. It has been a long time I did any building. I was watching and remembering the fun I had. The best part is you get to see your work right away. Thanks for sharing this build. I know it take time to film and edit but I sure do apricate that you do it.
Great job! I was a framer in my teens and watching you learn how brings back many memories. Also, thank you for the great shirt, got it last week! Enjoy wearing it.
Riley, when are you going to fabricate some real doors for that Marine Corp dump truck? Gives me the willies seeing go down the road without them. I have flashbacks of going down the Autobahn in Germany in the old Army jeeps. No doors, no seatbelts, just a strap.
For toenailing cut a scrap piece of lumber the distance between the studs. When setting the stud up lay the board on the plate press the stud up against the board. On cutting this board you cut it one thickness of your studs. In your 24" centers minus 1.5" is 22.5".
You guys are amazing! I look forward to your videos every week and its good to see your progress over the years. Thank you for making such entertaining, inspirational content. Keep up the great work! 😎
My apologies for forgetting your friend's name. Does he learn these fun things (think air up his nose) because he comes from 'The Land Down Under'? I think that you have the best 'You Tube channel'. I so love 'Laura Farms' but you two have topped her tremendously. I do watch some others, but you two are the best. Thank you so much for posting!!!! Cortney, you make a great example of what young and old ladies can do for a career. I do not remember you operating the bulldozer, but you have operated everything else. Loved the road building project where you were 'punching' the rocks with the excavator and Riley was driving underneath of your boom with the bulldozer. Such things that OSHA would dearly love!!!!! Did you operate Oliver's train?
I have a Media window U shape unit in my garage and bedroom. Its DC like the Mr. cool but you can install it in 10 minutes and plug it into a 15 amp outlet. You lose the lower section of that window but man, super cheap. About $400 per unit and super easy install. If and when it breaks you yank it out and install a new one.
@@jstar1000 I don't remember how much my mrcool mini split cost. The I installed it myself. No issues. It's plugged into a 15 amp service outlet. It also heats. As well cools. I searched for window unit that heat and cool. They're around $2,000 ish. And they have to have a 220 volt. I'm sure you enjoy your units. The same as I do enjoy the Mr cools.
@@DennisDSmockJR You can get window unit heat pumps 12k btu's for $600 or less. Media makes one of those too. I live in Texas so don't really need that option.
On the using clamps while framing, well I built my own home and needed an extra set of hands at times when none were around. Clamps solve a lot of problems, they help hold things firmly, they can help with alignment with solid straight edges. Sash clamps held the door openings in place for me, but I’m not a qualified builder. Not only did I use different clamps I also used ratchet straps and ropes as well as 3:1 block and tackle, all very useful. Love framing and the work you are doing, I think it’s fun to do while others I knew disliked it.
This year's hardships are likely going to be more difficult. Looking back, I realize that I made poor financial decisions previous year as I was so focused on my portfolio. I was forced to choose between increasing my investments and purchasing a home. When I decided to sell my possessions, I discovered that the house I had bought needed more maintenance than I had anticipated. It's getting harder to say how much longer I can put up with this.
Invest in businesses that have predictable cash flows to diversify your holdings. In the ten months after I hired a planner to assist me build my portfolio at the end of 2023, I have made money in over 500 different markets. If 2023 teaches us anything, it's that good luck never lasts. We should work harder to be ready for the worst case scenario even in good times.
Alright, so where can someone locate a reliable financial planner? It won't be a problem for me to find the professional who helped you. I'll be retiring in two years, and I might require assistance with handling my far more valuable assets. I'm not willing to take any risk
So I think you guys are doing an awesome job. This brings back a lot of memories about 14 years ago. I bought a little three bedroom one bath house that I pretty much tore down of the studs because the inspector missed all of the mold and rot. I think out of all the walls we started with we had like one and a half left so we put in a new foundation, and we also added a master bedroom suite another bathroom a dining room and we ended up turning a 800 square-foot home into a 1800 square-foot home and we did everything the plumbing which I’ve done in the past have no problem with the framing from the ground up, including the forms in the footings and laying all the steel and it was fun. I was really proud of me and my boys. We did a lot of work and I thought it was funny you talking about framing it brought back a memory. I actually bought the book framing for dummies and I use that anyways sending you guys love hope you guys have a wonderful wonderful day.
Good job, a lot of good comments, but for someone just doing it... you are doing it well. There are easier ways to do what you did, but you got it done. Good job. The layout man is a good idea...on layout, to make it easier you dont need to do the center measure and then 3/4 off each mark...adjust the first mark and then the rest of the marks are on layout. 24 OC is 24 edge to edge. One other thing overlap your top plate doubler at intersections. Always enjoy the videos thanks
You should be using a 16" stud layout instead of 24" layout! The ends of your top plate need to split exactly ¾" over your studs or in the middle of your headers, and your double top plates need to overlap 4 feet! I wish I was there to help you! I'm in a wheelchair now, but I'm pretty good teacher. I have taught a lot of new guys and was a carpenter for almost 20 years.
Dropping it late tonight I see! Being a local channel I guess I get to see it first! I am looking forward to seeing this build progress. Miss seeing your faces at our meetings.
I love watching these videos, they always feel super American to me, for obvious reasons, and then in the last few hearing a Yorkshire accent! Feels like home haha! (My Partner is from Leeds.)
That framing will never pass inspection. For the love of god please stop nailing the top plates together between the studs. Two nails directly above the studs only. Also do not split your top plate between the studs. You are going to hate yourself when you drill through the plates to run any electric or plumbing and you hit the nails you put in between the studs.
You 2 are amazing, i love watching. Riley you are a smart wildman, with a wife that keeps you in check. Big full time foe her. Oliver will be a smart child that will know how to do stuff!
Your walk-out wall is framed incorrectly. All lumber touching concrete needs to be treated and Sill sealer, both vertical and horizontal. Frame the wall flat on the floor tip it up and attach to the Sill plate. Look up King and Jack posts. Headers above all openings 2 - 2x12's maybe 3 look up code fore your area. Or better to use LVL'S. 2x6 framing requires min 3 nails not two into top and bottom plate. Walk out wall Top plate needs to run over the block wall and j bolt thru it. Sill plate starts from there along wall. You could scribe the Sill plate rather then grind all the tops of the block. Use a belt sander or hand power jointer to plane the wood to the concrete.
Hey, you too sorry. I was around for this whole week to watch you. I've been driving to other state's again. So got no job back and I'll watch you as much as I can. Imagine, I'm driving, take care. Good job so far.
Old contractor says, supposed to build standard 8 foot wall on front, then string pony wall on top of block off the top of it for full height all around. Can still do pony wall, just put headers on top of existing short wall...
No matter how much I watch you Americans do Imperial calculations I still think ditching the fractions and going metric would be way less error prone. Greetings from Australia.
1. The tp plate should be a double plate, with the seems staggered at least 1 stud apart. The reason for a double plate is for structural stability. This makes sure the wall wont rack in heavy winds. The seams are a weak point. The header above the door should be turned the other way not on the flat. The distance you have could be done with 2x4 and not 2x6, there should be at least two.
I put a pioneer inverter heat pump in my camper and then took the roof camper air conditioner off then I sealed the hole up with eurobond 12-in wide tape and had a piece of Palin underneath for the tape stick to. I enjoy watching your videos you do a real fine job
Like most rv's, the manufacturer goes too cheap when it comes to a/c. We had two roof mounted rv a/c units that we installed on our school bus conversion. Which when running would freeze us out of the r/v. You are correct about the noise of the units. From what I could see of your r/v it only had one.
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Only God knows how much grateful i am. After so much struggles I now own a new house and my family is happy once again everything is finally falling into place!!
After I raised up to 325k trading with her I bought a new House and a car here in the states 🇺🇸🇺🇸 also paid for my son's surgery (Oscar). Glory to God.shalom.
So amazing progress learning on doing your framing. The highlight was just near the end, Courtney says “Man, if only you had this thing to stand on” and Riley said “Oh like a ladder”. and then proceeds to use a set of Steps 🤣🤣🤣🤣 You two are great and always give us something to laugh at with the help of Andy, nice to see the Building Inspector Oliver checking progress to date. xxxxxxxxxxx
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who said a 90 day build cant be done.. lol most places can do it in 45 day, so you ought to be able to pull it off with twice the time.
Hey Riley, I'm no expert, but the headers over your exterior doorways and windows should be standing 2X6's rather than laying flat like you've done. Your method would never pass code anywhere that I'm aware unless you don't have codes to follow out there in the boonies. Regardless, for peace of mind, every exterior wall should be treated as a load-bearing wall, hence the standing headers. Just my two cents.
They aren't using actual headers because there will be a LVL across the entire wall carrying the load of the 2nd floor wall. I would have used headers and Jack's either way just in case though.
I was just about to say that anything over 6 ft especially the garage head are you going to need a beam
@@NASTYcraftXunderstood, but it’s still considered a load-bearing wall. Still don’t think it would pass code here, but again, I’m no expert.
You are correct
@@JohnHBrandon Yeah never seen anything frames like this, maybe a shed but not a house
Your window and door headers need to be installed turned so the 6 “ is facing up. Take 2 2x6 with 1/2” plywood sandwiched between. You may also want to use liquid nail adhesive also. There is no strength in a board laying flat. Have fun, looks great !
Riley - use a push stick - NEVER run your hand along the blade when ripping 2x4's on a table saw - you ARE going to lose fingers if you don't stop following bad practice.
that was my exact thought when he was using the table saw too.
That, and consider getting some featherboards too (I started using them myself after seeing Paul from Stud Pack using them for all his cuts: ruclips.net/video/8ZmsQaz0tC4/видео.htmlsi=WgYyp57CN67IO13_&t=270 )
@@terrybretz1 I owned a construction company in the past and ran a table saw for years without using a push stick. One day while ripping a 2x4 for the first time in 30+ years the board hit a knot or something (I still don't know for sure what happened). I wasn't using a push stick and THANK GOD I barely missed cutting my fingers off. It was pure luck that I didn't hit my hand/fingers and it was VERY close. I learned my lesson that day.
It happened so quickly and was so violent there was nothing I could do when it sucked my hand toward the blade - it happened so quickly. I recognized how blessed I was and have never pushed a board through the table saw without a push stick since.
Makes me cringe every time he does it.
He is an accident waiting to happen. That's not the first thing I've watched him do that has made me shiver. Too much smiling and playing up to the camera!
You never use your table saw at EYE LEVEL! Kickback is not a fun thing!
Your load bearing center wall should ideally have a stud directly below each floor joist and the door opening in that wall must have a true header to bear the weight from the joists above. Get a short piece of 8” LVL (or double 2x10)with at least one stud under each end of the LVL. Otherwise your joists will sag over that doorway.
Riley, there's a way easier way to make marks to drill the j-bolt holes. Use two people.
One person at each end of the board. Put the board on top of the whole row of bolts then eyeball it from the top with your chalk line. Then simply hit the board with a hammer tap on it all the way down it leaves an imprint on the board that's where you drill !!!! I've built many structures like that it works perfect every time.
I second that. That’s how I was taught by my dad
madmit someone else has really built a house, keep it simple....and accurate..
I third that method.. tried and true!
I’ve watched my son who is a contractor and he always pre assembled walls with top and bottom plates with headers and king studs then it’s tilted up and nailed down to the sill plate! Really need to do some more u tube university guys!
Watch Perkins Builder Brothers.
Load bearing walls 16" on center and double top plate on that wall.
Christine says that is what it should be. Agreed!
They have no idea wtf they are doing they said they just watched a video about how to build and he they are trying to teach people this is ridiculous I really hope the inspector shows up soon
@@TylersHomeDesign first of all they state in their videos that "this is how we are are doing it" and this may or may not be the correct way to do it. I've been following them since day one. They do take valuable criticism from viewers to improve the integrity of their builds.
@@TylersHomeDesign Well, I don't think their intention is to make a how to video. It is more of a video to show what they are doing and for our entertainment. Nonetheless, I would like and hope that they would build something up to code/spec.
Riley, I have been both an EMT on an Ambulance Squad and an ER Nurse and have done my share of repairing Carpenters who have done things that can only be described as "STOOOPID". If you look at today's' video at 25 minutes and 20 seconds, you will notice how close your fingers are to a rapidly turning saw blade. There is this amazingly simple piece of safety equipment called a push board which can be obtained at no cost by going to your scrap lumber pile and picking up an approximately one foot long piece of 2x4 and using it to push the board you are cutting through the final foot of the cut. Courtney would NOT be happy if she had to pick up your fingers, wrap them in gauze and put them on ice after wrapping you hand and then driving you to the hospital to see if they can sew them back on! (She will probably eventually forgive you - probably - maybe.)
Also, FYI, remember the definition a Nurse - "the first person you are going to see when waking up in the ER after saying to your friends - "Watch this!".
Other than that, I wait impatiently every weekend for your next episode to begin. I love them. Good luck to you, Courtney, Oliver and all your helpers.
@@tgcahill not to mention if the board kicked back, instead of hitting him in the gut it’s going straight to the head.
Completely agree with the exception that I understand you should NOT put the severed limbs on ice as it will kill the nerve endings. A clean zip lock back is preferable
@@jomojomo123 not directly in contact with the ice, hence the gauze. Yes to fingers in their own ziploc for cleanliness.
You insulate an ice pack to your skin for the same reasons...
Lay the sill plate where you want it and tap on it, the J bolt will make a mark to drill perfectly placed for any position the J bolts are in....
gpl Someone else has actually built a house and know how to get it done, been done that way for 60 years...
I was wonder why all that measuring when a hammer would have them all done in less than a minute!
lol, I was wondering what his reaction would be when he read the comments about the easy way to do it.
Riley did I hear you say the lvl beams will not go on the studs? I’ll wait and see how it turns out but my dad always said the joists or trusses would go on the studs for a straight pressure point to the foundation to help keep the floor or wall from sagging and possibly of a failure. That’s why you build with the 16” or 24” on center. Love the channel.
Always did 16" centers everywhere I've worked...... Pipe wrench can straighten a warped stud. AND building a wall vertically is HARD, assemble it on the floor and set it in place!.
I thought that as well
It's a little late now, but a lot of old time builders would also put a thin piece of sheet metal between the foam and the sill plate that would stick out about two inches to the outside of the foundation. The purpose so I've been told is to discourage termites or other bugs. After its installed you fold down the sheet metal slightly and the termites can't make their tunnels and come up and around the sheet metal.
I have this on my on slab house.
Many people also include a bead of silicon on top and bottom of the foam to keep all the creepy crawlies outside and really keep the building tight and sealed.
I was about to mention that. now that he has not used it, he definatly needs to seal with Butyl caulk at that foam to wood joint before any joists and flooring.
How cool is it to see little Oliver moving around the place on his own two feet. It's great to see your family doing so well, and keeping things real with all the video's .. Thanks for all you do.
O'Reilly if you're putting weight on the wall it has to be 16 in on Center so add a stud between all your studs before you put your joist down
NBC, SBC, etc. allows 2x6 studs on 24" centers for a load bearing wall.
@@jfarmer1711 True
@@jfarmer1711 Arizona code is 16" bearing wall. Codes are different everywhere
I used to do concrete grinding with just a mask, then I found out the hard way that those masks are just effective enough that you think you are not doing damage. As much work as you do, get a dust shroud and HEPA vacuum. Fine Woodworking has a good article. Festool and Makita both make battery powered units.
I've been following you two, Oops, now three, for years, since you first bought the property. Something I have always admired about you is that you don't define work as men's work and women's work. The fact that Courtney can swing a hammer, use a shovel and run equipment is what makes a couple a real team. I lost my dear wife in May but that's the way we lived and loved for the 58 years we were married. Cudos to the Ambition Strikes team. I can hardly wait to see Oliver with a hammer in his hand or at the controls of the Cat.
Tommy B in Virginia
Condolences for your wife. It has been four years since mine passed. She would have been so deeply into the work she was like having two people working.
Been doing stuff the hard way with my wife for 30 years. I wouldn't have been able to do half of it without her. Love that you are brave enough to put a camera on it, and show us your progress.
Standard construction techniques I'm accustomed to is to build the walls flat on the ground and then stand it up. You'll have a bottom and top plate. So you end up with two plates on the bottom and two on the top. It cost a little more, but it's so much quicker. I also alway cut my studs the same length and shim between the two bottom plate boards if needed. You even have a machine to lift it into place so you don't have to horse it yourself. Also, framing tolerances is typically within an 1/8 inch, although I like it dead on too.
Very correct on the walls. They are not building with any written plans, that bothers me. Codes are important for legal use to live in, insurance, resale, etc.
Riley, All your headers are framed wrong. That will become a huge problem. You also need wall studs fastened to the concrete and block wall. This will help you sheating.
That’s what happens when you learn from someone on RUclips. Everyone thinks they’re an expert so they post a video. There is a reason all the trades have apprenticeships, so you learn correctly how to do plumbing, carpentry, electrical and masonry…..so a few years later your house doesn’t fall apart or burn down. That’s why most cities have buildings codes.
You frame/layout on the ground and put it up as one whole wall.
I agree. I'm not a professional here but have been around and worked some in framing. You need under every window and door frame a stud going to the floor on each end of the horizontal bottom board. Also, from the top of the bottom horizontal board to the bottom of the top horizontal board another stud on each end and a header across every door or window span. Just my two cents. Hope I worded this right and easy to understand.
A strip of insulation between inner and outer as well.
@@wyattwiehr9447 they also have the audacity to do if they know it all. I doubt they have a permit so no code lol
Love your channel. Always happy when a new video of yours shows up in my feed. I stumbled across your channel back when you were starting your EPIC solar build. Since then I have not missed a single video. There are 2 standout things about your videos.
1. Not only do you guys show when you make a mistake but you go our of your way to not only show the mistakes, but actually make a point of showing how you resolved the issue. Too many channels never show when mistakes are made.
2. I love the way Riley turns into a little kid when it comes to machinery. Making dumptruck number 2 was a highlight.
Keep the videos coming guys.
In 1978, my wife and I built a house in 90 days. We knew nothing of construction and bought 2 hardbound books . We purchased a building site for 5000.00 and cleared the land by hand and built the house entirely ourselves from foundation to framing, wiring, plumbing, cabinets and flooring. It was 1300 SF 2 bedroom 2 bath. It cost us 29000.00 including the land. We sold it 3 months after it was finished for 57,000.00 and used that money to buy a fixer upper for 25000.00 which we remodeled and sold for 145000.00.
If you could still do it for that price nowadays, a lot of the worlds problems would be solved. A small building plot in my area is $400,000!
Looking good, guys. Just a few comments from a retired General Contractor. 1) When doing Advanced Framing (24 inch on center) all of the load points must line up from the foundation to the rafters. That means the floor joists must fall on top of the studs and not off-set on the double top plate as you are planning to do. To be safe, I would suggest you install a stud under each floor joist after the floor joists are installed. 2) I suspect the window sills are lower than 24 inches thereby requiring tempered safety glazing in those two windows. I doubt your second hand windows are tempered. 3) Personally, I would be laminating headers out of 2x material for all those openings instead of a single 2x6 and a few cripple studs (especially above the interior door where floor joists will be resting above it. In fact, I would probably use a steel I-beam or box beam there.)
Code here is 18" or lower for glass requiring tempered/safety. Although I think glazing within 24" of a door horizontally and lower than 60" requires tempered/safety glass in some areas.
Make sure you are using douglas fir for the garage wall to hold up the second story and headers should never be flat, always use the headers on the side for strength. FYI......... Great Job and wholesome family. You guys, Gridlessness, and Tiny Shiny Home are the only channels on youtube
he's using LVL's which are stronger
I know all about measuring mistakes - in high school shop, we had a project to make a hot plate trivet, 1/2 in, tall strips arranged in a grid, 5 strips each way in a sort of oversized tic-tac-toe design. Everyone had a different job, mine was to take a measurement, someone else set the table saw blade, someone else CUT a dado into the strips so they could be joined together. NO ONE bothered to check before cutting enough for everyone - I measured from one side, they measured from the other, and they cut the strips (out of Walnut no less) for a class of about 20, and 10 strips per person. Needless to say, none of the trivets were uniform, we spent time grabbing strips from a box, testing each to see if they fit. BUT, 40+ years later my mother still uses this.
Every time I build a building I learn something new. I see lots of comments on here with tips and tricks to do stuff easier. I think this is great I’m learning stuff too.
There is an actual difference between the Green pressure treated boards and the Brown pressure treated. The green pressure treated is for ground contact. It is resistant to rotting when touching the ground or concrete or organic material and is also termite resistant. The brown pressure treated lumber is non ground contact. It is typically used on framing exterior buildings and porches where there is no contact with the ground or organic material.
good to know hadn't actually thought about it but yes making sense
feel better about picnic table repair with brown treated board have 50 ,+ tables that been maintaining
The color varies in different parts of the States... Out west, even ground contact boards are brown - just have a higher concentration of preservatives injected. I'm guessing it has to do with the kind of timber used...
@@andspenrobexactly. Here in Colorado a lot of the pt lumber is brown and it’s gc rated.
Hey Riley, hope these comments fine you’re doing well. On the very first wall that you’re framing to hold up the second floor floor, it should be framed with either 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 material studs and it should be 16 inches on center on center not 24 because it will be caring the load up top. This will make your will much stronger and only cost you 4 more studs. you need to have treated material running along all the concrete surfaces, the horizontal as well as the vertical surfaces. To attach the vertical studs use a (Hiilti gun, Powder actuated guns or ramset ) Powder actuated guns. This will shoot a nail into the concrete so you don’t have to use anchor bolts (just for the vertical studs). you should have 2 king studs and 1 cripple stud, the cripple stud will hold your header up for your opening for your sliding glass door. Wrong with that. Thanks for doing what you do. Love your show…..
Y’all are making it 10 times harder. Frame the wall flat on the ground and stand it up. 😉
It was killing me watching all that extra work. He is framing as if it’s a remodel wall not new construction….sigh all those toe nails sigh. All he had to do was get the anchor holes drilled verify it’s done correctly then pull and build the wall on the ground.
I was thinking the same thing, but if the existing foundation floor isn’t flat stick framing can get everything true easier.
@@coastalgaming1594building on an uneven floor requires it to be stick built- - everything else can be built on the floor and stood up.
At this rate they will not make their 90 day goal….
Where’s the bottom plate???
You need jack studs and cripples around doors and windows, I am hopeful you have accounted for those in your framing the width of each.
Good morning, Riley, I have been a subscriber watching your video content for about two years now and you amaze me by how you solve situations you are faced with and make it work for you. I enjoy your videos and look forward with my wife for your next uploads. No matter what you do you make it a fun project at least on your posts. Keep doing what works best for you and your family, You didn't get this far without self-knowledge. Constructive comments are just that, you can use them, to help with whatever you are doing or acknowledge them and move on. ( Sometimes too many chefs spoil the soup ) Stay safe with your family.
For amateurs you are doing a great job. I really like watching you build with Courtney and your Australian friend getting it done.
They definitely need to learn more about load bearing walls and headers though. For door and window openings on the load bearing walls you have to frame different with jack studs to support the headers. And headers need to be sized for the load, often multiple 2x12s to reach thickness. The lbl will save them down here although I question their header in that door open between the two spaces if they have an I joist over the door. the double top plate is not all that holds things up. Those opening have to do more than hold the window/door in place. They have to support everything above them all the way to the roof. Load bearing openings are framed strictly for a reason.
The Australian friend sounds English to me 🤔
Riley 3 tips...Looks good but get that table saw lowered down away from your face. A board that kicks back will leave a dent in your face or worse. Also make or buy a push stick !!! Don't get your fingers that close to the blade. A lost digit will halt the project. When using the air gun take your finger off the trigger after you fire it. If you are holding it down and bump a board.,your leg, or your helper standing in front of you.The gun will go off. Removing your finger from the trigger becomes second nature after awhile. Safety first man
I've had that same Hercules mitre saw! Love it. Great to see another RUclipsr using it. I'm someone who doesn't need to have all yellow tools!
Riley, I applaud your attention to detail!! I’m always impressed by your can-do attitude and success in learning and executing new skills!! Well done!!👏👏👏
A little carpenters' tip regarding wood that may be exposed to moisture--even treated lumber: Look at the grain from the end of the board. The board should have the up-grain side up. Meaning that if you view the end of the board, the curve of the age growth rings starts low at one end, curves up towards the center of the board, and curves back down on the other end. Like an upside-down U. This helps shed any moisture that may fall on the top or sides of the board. And it prevents moisture from staying inside the board to cause rot, which is what happens if you inadvertently install the board so the grain is shaped like a U. Water will collect inside that U and sit there as if it were sitting in a cup. Carpenters prevent that by installing all horizontal boards so the inner grain is NOT U-shaped, but rather is up-side-down-U-shaped. Especially helpful in attaining great longevity in wooden decking, docks at the lake, railings, and anywhere a horizontal board is exposed to the elements.
Watching this show makes me happy! Thanks Courtney, Riley and don't forget Andy!
The chemistry is so funny! Keep ik up! 🙂
Yes Riiley. She LOVES you. Gave you a mask to prevent silicosis.
Those little paper masks don't stop everything, I would be wearing a full face respiratory, Silicosis is no joke, a horrible way to die.
Wow, little Oliver can walk now, and from appearances he can walk fast and far!! You guys are building a really cool project! And I'm glad to see you will still have the 'underground' basement garage. Every place needs a garage/shop!
I raised 75k and Christina Ann Tucker is to be thanked. I got my self my dream car 🚗 just last weekend, My journey with her started after my best friend came back from New York and saw me suffering in dept then told me about her and how to change my life through her. Christina A. Tucker is the kind of person one needs in his or her life! I got a home, a good wife, and a beautiful daughter. Note!:: this is not a promotion but me trying to make a point that no matter what happens, always have faith and keep living!!
Wow 😱 I know her too
Miss Christina Ann Tucker is a remarkable individual whom has brought immense positivity and inspiration into my life.
I started with a miserly $1500. The results have been mind blowing I must say TBH!
< I know that woman(Christina Ann Tucker)
If you were born and raised in new York you'd know too, No doubt she is the one that helped you get where you are!!
There is her line!!! under this comment!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🔁 Put the digits together.
SUPER job on leveling the foundation Riley!!! Screw the easy way - right way ALWAYS trumps easy
Riley I just wanted to say you didn't have to grind the concrete down at 3/8 of an inch every slab that's ever poured every foot in a report is off just a little bit. All you got to do is cut the studs shorter when you frame it. Love you show you guys are doing awesome lot of work
The floor joists are going to lay on it, he had to grind it, otherwise not only the floor of the house would be wavy but the ceiling of the lower floor and then would have also had to trim the studs.
Around the 18 minute mark where you measure from concrete to straight line...you can save a lot of time by stringing a chalk line and simply marking the stud on the chalk line.
I love watching you two work. I hope this trick helps in the future.
If you're unsure of how many studs to use in the basement for supporting the upstairs , just double everything up in the basement or the floors above ! ! Happy Trails from 🇨🇦 to the 🇺🇸 . ✌ out . L8R
Y'all are welcome, Riley. Thanks for keeping it interesting. I look forward to y'alls future adventures.
I'm not a framer BUT for the headers all that i have seen have the boards long side up and down not flat say like a 2" X 6" its standing on the 2 and going 6 high specially for long spans when they are flat they are going to sag
Yeah, if you lay them flat they will sag. They are also not very strong that way.
@@ahnilatedahnilated7703 They will sag and the only thing preventing it is the nails.
the only thing they have ever had inspected was the septic system . otherwise seems they just do whatever the hell they want.
Loved seeing Oliver walking!! Excellent job on educating yourselves on RUclips - 👍🏼
how cool being able to build your own house !!
Every day is extremely overwhelming and very rewarding!
@@AmbitionStrikes i cant even imagine !! i would love to be able to do that but most have to chose working Vs this kinda working
@@danhard8440 If theres another kind of work you’d rather be doing, your current work should be helping you get closer to whatever that is. Many people wish their lives were different but few take the actions to change things. There’s nothing you can’t do and there’s nothing you can’t learn!
@@devenp.5508 ya most dont have that choice till they get to a better point of their life and for many it never happens😁
Riley, it is very important to have your walls to be continuous for their complete length. The sill plates on top of the stim walls at each end of the wall should be extended to meet the next full stud and make sure that the stim wall is attached to the basement walls. A metal strap should be installed to tie in the top plate to the sill plates on top of the basement walls.
you might want to check your tape measures side by side to see if they measure the same, i was helping my brother do some framing using 2 different tapes and the boards didn't fit right then we compared tapes and the measurements were different.
Riley, not a good idea to trust only double top plates to bear the weight of the floor joists and the flooring above where your floor joists bear mid spacing between the 24 inch on center studs. You need to add an extra stud under each floor joist. Also your door header needs some beefing up to support the floor joist above the door header.
Andy is a real animal at 34:44 catching a 2X6 one handed from a 8 meter toss.
You mentioned you were watching RUclips videos when you were laying out your sill plates for your J Bolts. The same channel you watched has good videos for framing doors and windows. Makes the project flow easier and better production methods. Love watching your posts, and the fun you bring to the screen.
Frame those 2x6 on 16” centers. 24” is marginal
the faster way to line up the sill plate is to just put it above the bolts where want it to be and hammer it down to create little depressions from the bolts showing you where to drill
I want to frame a house now. It has been a long time I did any building. I was watching and remembering the fun I had. The best part is you get to see your work right away. Thanks for sharing this build. I know it take time to film and edit but I sure do apricate that you do it.
Great job! I was a framer in my teens and watching you learn how brings back many memories. Also, thank you for the great shirt, got it last week! Enjoy wearing it.
Thanks for buying a shirt!! 🙌
Riley, when are you going to fabricate some real doors for that Marine Corp dump truck? Gives me the willies seeing go down the road without them. I have flashbacks of going down the Autobahn in Germany in the old Army jeeps. No doors, no seatbelts, just a strap.
You need to add a short stud against the footer wall and anchor it to the wall to anchor the wall.
Like the video and and like to Oliver runing arowd , Good job Guy's .
For toenailing cut a scrap piece of lumber the distance between the studs. When setting the stud up lay the board on the plate press the stud up against the board.
On cutting this board you cut it one thickness of your studs. In your 24" centers minus 1.5" is 22.5".
Now that you've gotten all this great advice, we're all going to descend upon your building site to help 😆
You guys are amazing! I look forward to your videos every week and its good to see your progress over the years. Thank you for making such entertaining, inspirational content. Keep up the great work! 😎
Why 24oc instead of 16oc sconces it's holding up a second floor?
You guys are so cool. I thoroughly enjoy your videos. I look forward every Sunday to a new episode. kudos to Andy and his wife as well.
Love to see Harbor Freight tools. I love that store!
Everything is from China, some of it works a lot is just garbage.
My apologies for forgetting your friend's name. Does he learn these fun things (think air up his nose) because he comes from 'The Land Down Under'? I think that you have the best 'You Tube channel'. I so love 'Laura Farms' but you two have topped her tremendously. I do watch some others, but you two are the best. Thank you so much for posting!!!! Cortney, you make a great example of what young and old ladies can do for a career. I do not remember you operating the bulldozer, but you have operated everything else. Loved the road building project where you were 'punching' the rocks with the excavator and Riley was driving underneath of your boom with the bulldozer. Such things that OSHA would dearly love!!!!! Did you operate Oliver's train?
Mr Cool is the way to go. I have three in my house right now been running for 3 years.
I have a Media window U shape unit in my garage and bedroom. Its DC like the Mr. cool but you can install it in 10 minutes and plug it into a 15 amp outlet. You lose the lower section of that window but man, super cheap. About $400 per unit and super easy install. If and when it breaks you yank it out and install a new one.
@@jstar1000 I don't remember how much my mrcool mini split cost. The I installed it myself. No issues. It's plugged into a 15 amp service outlet. It also heats. As well cools. I searched for window unit that heat and cool. They're around $2,000 ish. And they have to have a 220 volt. I'm sure you enjoy your units. The same as I do enjoy the Mr cools.
@@DennisDSmockJR You can get window unit heat pumps 12k btu's for $600 or less. Media makes one of those too. I live in Texas so don't really need that option.
@@jstar1000 110 or 240
@@DennisDSmockJR 110
On the using clamps while framing, well I built my own home and needed an extra set of hands at times when none were around. Clamps solve a lot of problems, they help hold things firmly, they can help with alignment with solid straight edges. Sash clamps held the door openings in place for me, but I’m not a qualified builder. Not only did I use different clamps I also used ratchet straps and ropes as well as 3:1 block and tackle, all very useful. Love framing and the work you are doing, I think it’s fun to do while others I knew disliked it.
This year's hardships are likely going to be more difficult. Looking back, I realize that I made poor financial decisions previous year as I was so focused on my portfolio. I was forced to choose between increasing my investments and purchasing a home. When I decided to sell my possessions, I discovered that the house I had bought needed more maintenance than I had anticipated. It's getting harder to say how much longer I can put up with this.
We have all made mistakes, therefore keep it simple
Invest in businesses that have predictable cash flows to diversify your holdings. In the ten months after I hired a planner to assist me build my portfolio at the end of 2023, I have made money in over 500 different markets. If 2023 teaches us anything, it's that good luck never lasts. We should work harder to be ready for the worst case scenario even in good times.
Alright, so where can someone locate a reliable financial planner? It won't be a problem for me to find the professional who helped you. I'll be retiring in two years, and I might require assistance with handling my far more valuable assets. I'm not willing to take any risk
June Renae Matthysse. You are likely to find more information if you look her up online
Got it. Thank you so much for this useful information
So I think you guys are doing an awesome job. This brings back a lot of memories about 14 years ago. I bought a little three bedroom one bath house that I pretty much tore down of the studs because the inspector missed all of the mold and rot. I think out of all the walls we started with we had like one and a half left so we put in a new foundation, and we also added a master bedroom suite another bathroom a dining room and we ended up turning a 800 square-foot home into a 1800 square-foot home and we did everything the plumbing which I’ve done in the past have no problem with the framing from the ground up, including the forms in the footings and laying all the steel and it was fun. I was really proud of me and my boys. We did a lot of work and I thought it was funny you talking about framing it brought back a memory. I actually bought the book framing for dummies and I use that anyways sending you guys love hope you guys have a wonderful wonderful day.
It's cool to see little man taking steps. I remember when you all announced Courtney was pregnant.
Good job,
a lot of good comments, but for someone just doing it... you are doing it well. There are easier ways to do what you did, but you got it done. Good job.
The layout man is a good idea...on layout, to make it easier you dont need to do the center measure and then 3/4 off each mark...adjust the first mark and then the rest of the marks are on layout. 24 OC is 24 edge to edge.
One other thing overlap your top plate doubler at intersections.
Always enjoy the videos thanks
Think maybe, you were trying to say making a mountain out of a mole hill?
You should be using a 16" stud layout instead of 24" layout! The ends of your top plate need to split exactly ¾" over your studs or in the middle of your headers, and your double top plates need to overlap 4 feet! I wish I was there to help you! I'm in a wheelchair now, but I'm pretty good teacher. I have taught a lot of new guys and was a carpenter for almost 20 years.
Dropping it late tonight I see! Being a local channel I guess I get to see it first! I am looking forward to seeing this build progress. Miss seeing your faces at our meetings.
I love watching these videos, they always feel super American to me, for obvious reasons, and then in the last few hearing a Yorkshire accent! Feels like home haha! (My Partner is from Leeds.)
That framing will never pass inspection. For the love of god please stop nailing the top plates together between the studs. Two nails directly above the studs only. Also do not split your top plate between the studs. You are going to hate yourself when you drill through the plates to run any electric or plumbing and you hit the nails you put in between the studs.
Yep was just about to comment this. They are going to be hitting nails left and right when drilling down to the basement level.
Who says they have to get it inspected??
You 2 are amazing, i love watching. Riley you are a smart wildman, with a wife that keeps you in check. Big full time foe her. Oliver will be a smart child that will know how to do stuff!
Your walk-out wall is framed incorrectly.
All lumber touching concrete needs to be treated and Sill sealer, both vertical and horizontal.
Frame the wall flat on the floor tip it up and attach to the Sill plate.
Look up King and Jack posts.
Headers above all openings 2 - 2x12's maybe 3 look up code fore your area. Or better to use LVL'S.
2x6 framing requires min 3 nails not two into top and bottom plate.
Walk out wall Top plate needs to run over the block wall and j bolt thru it. Sill plate starts from there along wall.
You could scribe the Sill plate rather then grind all the tops of the block. Use a belt sander or hand power jointer to plane the wood to the concrete.
Really enjoying the build series and enjoying the collab with Andy, hope to see him the for the whole build.
I certainly hope Riley reads all these comments!
Hey, you too sorry. I was around for this whole week to watch you. I've been driving to other state's again. So got no job back and I'll watch you as much as I can. Imagine, I'm driving, take care. Good job so far.
Courtney has to be about the best looking framer I've ever seen. Good job.
Old contractor says, supposed to build standard 8 foot wall on front, then string pony wall on top of block off the top of it for full height all around. Can still do pony wall, just put headers on top of existing short wall...
Riley has done infinitely more framing than Andy, not twice as much :) So much fun watching you guys build stuff. Thank you for the videos!
At the risk of being pedantic, Riley's done an undefined amount of more framing than Andy (1/0). 😀
Yes, 0 times 2 is not 1!! 😉
22:32 every video I'm in awe of Courtney's brain. She always has the right thought at the right time, always clever and always safe
Agreed. But she also edits the roll...
awesome progress! i love seeing how fast this project is moving, keep it up!! looking forward to the next update
No matter how much I watch you Americans do Imperial calculations I still think ditching the fractions and going metric would be way less error prone. Greetings from Australia.
It would be.
The problem is that only 7/16 of the population wants to change. The other 55 percent doesn't.
1. The tp plate should be a double plate, with the seems staggered at least 1 stud apart. The reason for a double plate is for structural stability. This makes sure the wall wont rack in heavy winds. The seams are a weak point. The header above the door should be turned the other way not on the flat. The distance you have could be done with 2x4 and not 2x6, there should be at least two.
As far as the squareness of your new house goes, my Dad had a saying: "A guy riding by on a fast horse would never know the difference". LOL
Also..."You can't see it from the road."
@@mcdainty4202 The '5 x 5 rule' If you can't see it from five feet and in five yrs. you can't remember what the mistake was, it's OK.
no it's won't see it riding by on a bicycle
Pipe wrench can twist your stud correctly also. Did it in 2009 to build wood frame 20x30 master bed and bath.
👍 thanks
You deserve Kudos! I can’t tell you how much I nag about clamps! They are a carpenter’s best friend.
I put a pioneer inverter heat pump in my camper and then took the roof camper air conditioner off then I sealed the hole up with eurobond 12-in wide tape and had a piece of Palin underneath for the tape stick to. I enjoy watching your videos you do a real fine job
Thank you for wearing a mask
I used to do this for a living and you all have done a GREAT Job!
personally I prefer the 9, 12, 15 method LOL
Or the metric version - 1800mm, 2400mm, 3000mm.
Like most rv's, the manufacturer goes too cheap when it comes to a/c. We had two roof mounted rv a/c units that we installed on our school bus conversion. Which when running would freeze us out of the r/v. You are correct about the noise of the units. From what I could see of your r/v it only had one.
*I'm overjoyed and grateful to see God's blessings and abundance manifest in my family's life. We're thriving and happy once again, and I can now provide for my loved ones even in retirement, thanks to a remarkable weekly income of $67,000. It's a game-changer after* *facing many challenges*.
Only God knows how much grateful i am. After so much struggles I now own a new house and my family is happy once again everything is finally falling into place!!
Wow that's huge, how do you make that much monthly?
I'm 35 and have been looking for ways to be successful, please how??
Thanks to my co-worker (Scott) who suggested Mrs Maria Angelina🙏.
After I raised up to 325k trading with her I bought a new House and a car here in the states 🇺🇸🇺🇸 also paid for my son's surgery (Oscar). Glory to God.shalom.
So amazing progress learning on doing your framing. The highlight was just near the end, Courtney says “Man, if only you had this thing to stand on” and Riley said “Oh like a ladder”. and then proceeds to use a set of Steps 🤣🤣🤣🤣 You two are great and always give us something to laugh at with the help of Andy, nice to see the Building Inspector Oliver checking progress to date. xxxxxxxxxxx