What surprises me is that the maximum weight for an XL frame is the same as for an XS frame. As a large rider, I have almost no margin. In my experience, the problem is not the suspension, but the rear wheel or the chainstay. The spokes are pulled through the rim during a rough landing or the chainstay tears behind the bottom bracket. Both have happened to me twice in the past ten years.
About weight, I personally use simple rule: Take the maximum weight of full setup; rider, bike, water, tools, spares, kit, possible weight of a backpack etc. And add some kilos to this max. When building my rear wheel(for a hardtail, mind you) I ended up with heavy ass rim for 180kg, because I weight about 90kg, bike + water + kit is about 18, rounded to 20, and I can take about 20kg in a backpack when necessary, so it adds up to about 130kg. Rims usually are rated to 130, so next step was 180 for me. Always add some margin of error if possible.
The weight limits are absolutely hideous! I recently was looking at a fully equipped gravel bike to also use for bike packing etc. For my 2m body, i need a xl or xxl frame - weight limit:115 - 120 kg! For f**k sake, as a 2m guy, I'm already 115kg! Who do they think buys a XL or XXL gravel bike!? Definitely not a 160cm 60kg feather weight! I put this question also out to couple bike brands, none of them responded. My guess is,that they were just too lazy and "it's too expensive to change with sizes" when scaling up... Always the same BS in any industry when it comes to such things! Sorry for the rant, but it has to be said!
Often the rider weight limit is based on the wheels. Pivot, for example, lists the weight capacity for the Reynolds wheels that come on their bikes because they say their frames are strong enough to not need a weight limit.
My 2024 Cube action team came with Newman evo wheels. They are 30mm wide with 2.4 Schwalbe Magic Mary on the front and 2.4 Big Betty on the rear. To be honest, it's a perfect setup and thickness. They look chunky as heck looking down on them, and they provide great speed and handling. Fantastic wheelset! They're holding up to my heavyweight riding anyway. With 28 spokes, I'm kind of shocked they aren't destroyed already, but they're not a bit out of true! The 2.4 on the 30mm rim gives it a nice-looking profile for the anti-pinch walls as well! These were the first things I was looking to replace for more spokes and a "better brand," but Cube is onto something with these wheels! So strong! The carbon front triangle rear alloy is an amazing set up no flex in the rear like was experiencing woth rear carbon just an amazing bike all round now they have ironed out all the issues from 2021 model's!
I’m on a similar setup. Funny to me how they have spec’d the same wheel set across a lot of the lineup. Have a ‘24 full carbon one44 with this wheel set and an older stereo 170 (AL) with the exact same wheels… time will tell how they hold up on the enduro bike. I’ve re-laced the rear wheel on the one44 so far with a dtswiss 350.
Tyre size lecture Klaxxon: (Its all very confusing because it came from historical bike industry weirdness so hopefully the info below will help clarify) ⤵ The whole concept of 29er and 27.5 arose in the first decade of the 2000s when the typical MTB tyre width was only 2.25" so called 29er rims are the same diameter as the road bike standard 700c which is 622mm which is 24.5" so called 27.5" rims are the same diameter as the road/touring bike standard 650b which is 584mm which is 23" so called 26" rims are the old USA 1940s/50s cruiser bike standard which is 559mm (22") So when they first emerged 29er bikes had 24.5" rims with 2.25" tyres = 29 inches outside diameter of tyre (24.5 + 2.25 + 2.25 = 29) 27.5 bikes had 23" rims with 2.25" tyres = 27.5 inches outside diameter of tyre (23 + 2.25 + 2.25 = 27.5) Since then tyre sizes have got bigger and bigger so that most "29er" bikes have bigger than 29" external diameter tyres, even more so with 27.5" which tend to have wider tyres eg 27.5 x 2.8 gives a 28.6" outside diameter ie almost 29" (23+2.8+2.8 = 28.6) I could go on to explain the late 19th/early 20th century English and French origins of 700c and 650b but thats probably a lecture for a different segment of youtube 😀
Weight limits are a sham... throughout the size spectrum all max weights are the same. In my case I generally need the largest frame, and most max weights on example gravelbikes are around 120-125KG. On road bikes those numbers are closer to 100kg. So it's okay for an obese short person to ride the bike, but when over 2m tall... tough luck. Bike manufacturers should spec tougher components on bigger size frames. And if the frame is the limiting factor, then they should engineer it better.
this what caused the whole confusion over wheels sizes. "26" was 22inches (but the tyres we used at the end of 26er times weren't really 26 more like 27 ( had some 26x2.4 conti rubber queens that were 27.2inches in diamter) "27.5" rims are 22.99 inches. and "29" rims are 24.48inches (also what is used on road bikes "700c" {brackets because no road bike actually use 700c sized tyres although some gravel bikes do}) it's kind of like "26" was only 26 on a 1.9 inch tyre which was common when that size was defined, "27.5" would that size on a 2.2inch tyre and the same for 29. "26" on a 2.2 was closing to 26.5inches. hence it's rim is only 0.99 inches smaller then 27.5
My Gravel bike can take 2 water bottles, but my MTB can only take one. I love my Camelbak for longer rides, or in the warmer months (in Aus, it gets hot and I sweat), but I also have an Osprey bum-bag - it can carry 2 bottles, and it keeps your centre of gravity a bit lower.
The way I cut my bars is I move my grips and levers in then I take the bike out. From there I determine if the new width feels good. While in the trail I adjust then. After I get them where I like the width I measure and move bars back. After my ride I’m take the bike to the shop to have them cut.
3:27 I got myself a XC-MTB this year and finding one was so frustrating. I'm overweight and pretty much everything was maxed out before reaching my weight.
On rides of an hour or less I use a standard bottle with some sport drink in it. Rides of 2 hours or less I use that same bottle, plus a second larger one that just has water (which my frame can fortunately fit). If I'm doing an epic at some distant trail center, I do those and swap the fanny pack for a backpack + Hydrapak to ensure I don't run out. There's nothing worse than running out when you're still thirsty and far from the end!
Forks with air in the lowers is main cause of suck down, easily sorted with cable ties down seals and pull lowers full down, remove cable ties before letting go of pulling (helps to have 2 people)
Just think about "weight limit" on suspension: you can add weight until the suspension is fully compressed. That's what I would call the maximum weight that the suspension could handle as it was designed to be compressed. But: if you can't set your sag anymore and bottoming out permanently then you are heavier than the suspension can handle. If you can't set your sag correctly but don't bottom out, everything is fine.
#askgmbntech - this one is for Owen - another question on WC pits... you quite often see (or hear) that after a run (or a couple of runs) that the pads AND rotors are getting swapped out. How are the pit mechanics bedding in the new parts? Is it as simple as riding the bike up and down the road doing the 5 hard stops routine like the rest of us (to transfer material from pad to rotor). Or is there a pit hack which is being used?
Yeah, forks and frames get wider tubes not that much to increase strength but decrease weight for given strength. Also increase stiffness, which partially translates into increase in longevity of bearings and bushings. Which allows to make those smaller and decrease weight and production cost ever marginally more. As per weight limit, it serves more of a recomendation purpose for the rider (disregards of the limit lighter riders riding softer will wear and break stuff at lower rate, but no weight would break the bike right away) and "get out jail free" card for namufacturers in case of a warranty dispute.
For me personally the added heat and rise in body temp from a water bladder pack stuck to my back negates any benefits of having the extra water, I'll end up sweating more from it. That's something to consider for those who tend to have a higher body temp when active.
I have 3 different sizes of camel backs and depending where and how long i want to ride depends on what bag i take. If im at a bike park i usually take a bottle and refill with fluids when needed, if im out on a 8 hour or so ride I'll take the biggest bag.
brake fluid can absorb moisture through connecting hoses and even from the air. With water mixed in, the fluid's boiling point is lowered with enough heat your brake fluid can boil and evaporate.
That zoom* fork most likely keeps the missing 15mm of travel in compression of negative spring. When you deflate the fork with steel negative spring and measure the travel, you start not from full decompression but somewhere around sag point. Also many forks include quite stiff bottom out bumpers as part of the travel, so for full measurement you have to squeeze those too. *not sure about zoom as they come in all kinds of designs, but it is a common thing with older Manitou and Marzocchi which your fork might be a copy of.
I had a look at Zoom's website. They have no forks showing as 130mm of travel, but loads with 100mm travel forks and a "Pitch" of 130mm - Pitch being the width between the fork legs. So quite possibly some dodgy or mistranslated advertising lists them as 130mm forks and we all just assume that means travel.
User weight is the elefant in the room, for the hole Industry. More like this❤ there is need for 120-140mm with 36-38 stantions for heavy xcBiketouring, Touring e-bikes;) and cargobikes too. Can I lower a RS Domain to 120-140mm?
Not convinced a Zoom fork will have positive and negative chambers 😅 but that's good advice on suck down for other people with suck down issues. Maybe zoom started making higher end foks again?
Although I work in the bike industry, in former jobs I had a fitness degree. I wanted to make a comment about wider bars. I'm sure most people have done lunges or squats to get in better condition for riding. In those movements,, fitness experts always remind us to not have your knees go beyond your toes. When your knees are not beyond your toes, they are then supported by the remainder of our bodies...hips, back etc...The same thing is true for wider handlebars, as our hands are taking more of the force from riding than they would if they were narrower and then our elbows, shoulders and back can help support those forces. Grips may help a bit, but in the end wider bars do distribute those forces in other parts of our bodies... namely hands.
I’m 5ft 11in and currently 415lbs. I bought a new leftover 2022 trek top fuel 5 to help make losing weight more fun. Turns out the max limit on pretty much every bike like this I can find is 300 or less…I have yet to ride it due to the fear of breaking it. I just bought fox 34 forks and a Fox X2 shock to help with more adjustability Over the weak/entry level stock suspension. Now I’m afraid of the wheels not being able to handle my weight. It’s very disappointing that no one makes bike parts for heavy riders, at least not that I can find. Even when I went into the bike shop I got the feel that no one wanted to help me due to my size. If anyone has any advice I’d greatly appreciate it!
You’re not using your bike, so it’s a sunk cost, imagine the money has gone to zero and it’s worthless, so why not ride it and see what happens? It’s made strong enough to jump off things and smash out trails with 300lb on board so riding gently on flat smooth surfaces with 450lb on board should allow it to fail in a safe way if it’s going to fail. That was the calculation I made and the one you need to make for yourself. I just did flat paths gently until I dropped enough weight. I did break a spoke and immediately walked home and had both wheels rebuilt by the local pro wheel builder with the strongest spokes they had. At 415lb you have really strong legs already so be gentle in your pedalling and listen for any strange noises. They make tandems that carry two (or three or more) people and luggage and they seem to do this with normal tires and relatively normal components, although the wheels usually have a very high spoke count. I was quite prepared to buy new tandem hubs, and rims to get a higher spoke count, but so far, weight loss and a pro wheel builder have sorted me out. You probably need to regularly check your saddle and seat post too. Don’t want that failing 😳. Good luck.
#AskGMBNTech If I use a higher classification bike (e.g., class 4), will the weight limit increase if I only ride on class 3 tracks? For example, if a class 4 bike has a weight limit of 140 kg, could that limit increase to 154-168 kg because I am only riding on class 3 trails?
Can you do a vidoe on sticky brand new XTR levers one mine just got the rear is slower and doesn't feel as fast and smooth as the front one and not wanting to use anything on the piston just yet till find out if the hydrolic fluid is there inside the lever piston not wanting to cross contaminate
#ASKGMBNTECH I just went from a Canyon Spectral to a Propain Hugene, the canyon has 90% anti squat and the hugene has 110%. They say the anti squat increases when you are in an easier gear, how does the chain affect the suspension anti squat?
#askgmbntech how much difference would getting a second set of XC spec wheels and tyres for my Boardman MTR make? I enjoy taking it to BPW but also want to do long XC loops.
Are you guys fans of Rock Shox Recon Silver TK 26" shocks? Amazon has two pairs, coil spring 100mm for $270.00🍁 and 100mm air for $390.00🍁. And do you know the weight a person can be for the coil version? When I bought a pair of Judy XC's in 2000 for $471.00🍁 I had to buy springs more for my weight.
Rockshox doesn’t offer different coil weights for the Recon, at least for the 27.5 and 29er version. If the medium spring is not suitable you have to upgrade to the airspring
On the subject of bottles, why is it so hard to find bike bottles with caps over the lids, I get that it's easier to drink from in a hurry if you don't have one, but Id rather have to take a couple of extra seconds than drink mud :)
On Amazon I bought some bike bottle caps and nipples that fit on Camelbak Podium insulated bottles b/c I wanted the protecton from dirt. Not expensive and work well.
Pedal-forward geometry is so inefficient no number of gears would save it. So the key is simply sit comfortably and enjoy the ride. For that even 9 is more than plenty.
#askgmbntech Sorry, but your answer on weight limits was pretty lame. You have an audience of large and heavy people looking to improve their health by riding and you just copped out as normal sized people are wont to do. Maybe imagine all bikes as a 60kg system weight you’d understand our frustration. I’d ask if you’re using a bike over weight but below its functional performance, is there any leeway? No jumping, no kerbs, no standing to pedal, fire roads only, or even local pavement, just steady zone one and two sort of thing. You both have experience of riding hundreds of bikes, and fixing bikes that get taken to racing extremes. That’s the knowledge we need when we go and buy just one.
Hi GMBN Tech Team, Your videos are truly amazing and inspiring! We have a team of professional editors who would love the opportunity to work with you. Would you like to give us the chance to send you some samples of our work? You can check them out in your spare time. Thanks, Kashif Alam
One of the most neglected part of weight limit is the total system weight limit of the wheelset. Especially on ebices...
What surprises me is that the maximum weight for an XL frame is the same as for an XS frame. As a large rider, I have almost no margin.
In my experience, the problem is not the suspension, but the rear wheel or the chainstay. The spokes are pulled through the rim during a rough landing or the chainstay tears behind the bottom bracket. Both have happened to me twice in the past ten years.
About weight, I personally use simple rule:
Take the maximum weight of full setup; rider, bike, water, tools, spares, kit, possible weight of a backpack etc.
And add some kilos to this max.
When building my rear wheel(for a hardtail, mind you) I ended up with heavy ass rim for 180kg, because I weight about 90kg, bike + water + kit is about 18, rounded to 20, and I can take about 20kg in a backpack when necessary, so it adds up to about 130kg. Rims usually are rated to 130, so next step was 180 for me.
Always add some margin of error if possible.
The weight limits are absolutely hideous!
I recently was looking at a fully equipped gravel bike to also use for bike packing etc. For my 2m body, i need a xl or xxl frame - weight limit:115 - 120 kg! For f**k sake, as a 2m guy, I'm already 115kg! Who do they think buys a XL or XXL gravel bike!? Definitely not a 160cm 60kg feather weight!
I put this question also out to couple bike brands, none of them responded. My guess is,that they were just too lazy and "it's too expensive to change with sizes" when scaling up... Always the same BS in any industry when it comes to such things!
Sorry for the rant, but it has to be said!
Often the rider weight limit is based on the wheels. Pivot, for example, lists the weight capacity for the Reynolds wheels that come on their bikes because they say their frames are strong enough to not need a weight limit.
Thanks guys, I guess I should just loose the weight lol.
Thanks again
Another really nice episode by you two. Thank you for your time and efforts.
I've tried every kind of water/kit combo and the Camelback vest is the best thing I've ever used
I do a water bottle and Camel Bak. The bottle is only for cooling. When I start of overheat I pot water through my helmet.
Brake pads wear, pistons get pushed out and the system can get low on fluid, low pressure is created inside and air gets sucked in.
My 2024 Cube action team came with Newman evo wheels. They are 30mm wide with 2.4 Schwalbe Magic Mary on the front and 2.4 Big Betty on the rear. To be honest, it's a perfect setup and thickness. They look chunky as heck looking down on them, and they provide great speed and handling. Fantastic wheelset! They're holding up to my heavyweight riding anyway. With 28 spokes, I'm kind of shocked they aren't destroyed already, but they're not a bit out of true! The 2.4 on the 30mm rim gives it a nice-looking profile for the anti-pinch walls as well! These were the first things I was looking to replace for more spokes and a "better brand," but Cube is onto something with these wheels! So strong! The carbon front triangle rear alloy is an amazing set up no flex in the rear like was experiencing woth rear carbon just an amazing bike all round now they have ironed out all the issues from 2021 model's!
I’m on a similar setup. Funny to me how they have spec’d the same wheel set across a lot of the lineup. Have a ‘24 full carbon one44 with this wheel set and an older stereo 170 (AL) with the exact same wheels… time will tell how they hold up on the enduro bike. I’ve re-laced the rear wheel on the one44 so far with a dtswiss 350.
Tyre size lecture Klaxxon:
(Its all very confusing because it came from historical bike industry weirdness so hopefully the info below will help clarify) ⤵
The whole concept of 29er and 27.5 arose in the first decade of the 2000s when the typical MTB tyre width was only 2.25"
so called 29er rims are the same diameter as the road bike standard 700c which is 622mm which is 24.5"
so called 27.5" rims are the same diameter as the road/touring bike standard 650b which is 584mm which is 23"
so called 26" rims are the old USA 1940s/50s cruiser bike standard which is 559mm (22")
So when they first emerged 29er bikes had 24.5" rims with 2.25" tyres = 29 inches outside diameter of tyre (24.5 + 2.25 + 2.25 = 29)
27.5 bikes had 23" rims with 2.25" tyres = 27.5 inches outside diameter of tyre (23 + 2.25 + 2.25 = 27.5)
Since then tyre sizes have got bigger and bigger so that most "29er" bikes have bigger than 29" external diameter tyres, even more so with 27.5" which tend to have wider tyres eg 27.5 x 2.8 gives a 28.6" outside diameter ie almost 29" (23+2.8+2.8 = 28.6)
I could go on to explain the late 19th/early 20th century English and French origins of 700c and 650b but thats probably a lecture for a different segment of youtube 😀
this is the content I am here for! top explanation!
I have a backpack anyway, and I feel it easier to reach for the camelback mouthpiece rather than stoop down for a bottle.
Weight limits are a sham... throughout the size spectrum all max weights are the same.
In my case I generally need the largest frame, and most max weights on example gravelbikes are around 120-125KG.
On road bikes those numbers are closer to 100kg.
So it's okay for an obese short person to ride the bike, but when over 2m tall... tough luck.
Bike manufacturers should spec tougher components on bigger size frames. And if the frame is the limiting factor, then they should engineer it better.
I am 184cm and about 125-130kg. The bikes actually listing a max weight are often around 120 kg. I guess I will just have to take my chances.
this what caused the whole confusion over wheels sizes.
"26" was 22inches (but the tyres we used at the end of 26er times weren't really 26 more like 27 ( had some 26x2.4 conti rubber queens that were 27.2inches in diamter)
"27.5" rims are 22.99 inches.
and "29" rims are 24.48inches (also what is used on road bikes "700c" {brackets because no road bike actually use 700c sized tyres although some gravel bikes do})
it's kind of like "26" was only 26 on a 1.9 inch tyre which was common when that size was defined, "27.5" would that size on a 2.2inch tyre and the same for 29. "26" on a 2.2 was closing to 26.5inches. hence it's rim is only 0.99 inches smaller then 27.5
My Gravel bike can take 2 water bottles, but my MTB can only take one.
I love my Camelbak for longer rides, or in the warmer months (in Aus, it gets hot and I sweat), but I also have an Osprey bum-bag - it can carry 2 bottles, and it keeps your centre of gravity a bit lower.
Thanks for the answer!
The way I cut my bars is I move my grips and levers in then I take the bike out. From there I determine if the new width feels good. While in the trail I adjust then. After I get them where I like the width I measure and move bars back. After my ride I’m take the bike to the shop to have them cut.
3:27 I got myself a XC-MTB this year and finding one was so frustrating. I'm overweight and pretty much everything was maxed out before reaching my weight.
On rides of an hour or less I use a standard bottle with some sport drink in it. Rides of 2 hours or less I use that same bottle, plus a second larger one that just has water (which my frame can fortunately fit). If I'm doing an epic at some distant trail center, I do those and swap the fanny pack for a backpack + Hydrapak to ensure I don't run out. There's nothing worse than running out when you're still thirsty and far from the end!
Forks with air in the lowers is main cause of suck down, easily sorted with cable ties down seals and pull lowers full down, remove cable ties before letting go of pulling (helps to have 2 people)
Just think about "weight limit" on suspension: you can add weight until the suspension is fully compressed. That's what I would call the maximum weight that the suspension could handle as it was designed to be compressed.
But: if you can't set your sag anymore and bottoming out permanently then you are heavier than the suspension can handle. If you can't set your sag correctly but don't bottom out, everything is fine.
Seatpost and Backpacks
#askgmbntech - this one is for Owen - another question on WC pits... you quite often see (or hear) that after a run (or a couple of runs) that the pads AND rotors are getting swapped out. How are the pit mechanics bedding in the new parts? Is it as simple as riding the bike up and down the road doing the 5 hard stops routine like the rest of us (to transfer material from pad to rotor). Or is there a pit hack which is being used?
Greetings - this is a great question!
Yes we'll try and cover it in an up coming ASK!
Cheers
Owen
Yeah, forks and frames get wider tubes not that much to increase strength but decrease weight for given strength. Also increase stiffness, which partially translates into increase in longevity of bearings and bushings. Which allows to make those smaller and decrease weight and production cost ever marginally more.
As per weight limit, it serves more of a recomendation purpose for the rider (disregards of the limit lighter riders riding softer will wear and break stuff at lower rate, but no weight would break the bike right away) and "get out jail free" card for namufacturers in case of a warranty dispute.
For me personally the added heat and rise in body temp from a water bladder pack stuck to my back negates any benefits of having the extra water, I'll end up sweating more from it. That's something to consider for those who tend to have a higher body temp when active.
I have 3 different sizes of camel backs and depending where and how long i want to ride depends on what bag i take. If im at a bike park i usually take a bottle and refill with fluids when needed, if im out on a 8 hour or so ride I'll take the biggest bag.
brake fluid can absorb moisture through connecting hoses and even from the air. With water mixed in, the fluid's boiling point is lowered
with enough heat your brake fluid can boil and evaporate.
That's true only for DOT fluid. Mineral oil is hydrophobic, so it does not absorb any water
@@andreaTRY2FLYYeah, it just sits in the caliper and boils first before the mineral oil
That zoom* fork most likely keeps the missing 15mm of travel in compression of negative spring. When you deflate the fork with steel negative spring and measure the travel, you start not from full decompression but somewhere around sag point. Also many forks include quite stiff bottom out bumpers as part of the travel, so for full measurement you have to squeeze those too.
*not sure about zoom as they come in all kinds of designs, but it is a common thing with older Manitou and Marzocchi which your fork might be a copy of.
I had a look at Zoom's website. They have no forks showing as 130mm of travel, but loads with 100mm travel forks and a "Pitch" of 130mm - Pitch being the width between the fork legs.
So quite possibly some dodgy or mistranslated advertising lists them as 130mm forks and we all just assume that means travel.
....i'm 'quite tech'.... I'll take that
User weight is the elefant in the room, for the hole Industry.
More like this❤ there is need for 120-140mm with 36-38 stantions for heavy xcBiketouring, Touring e-bikes;) and cargobikes too.
Can I lower a RS Domain to 120-140mm?
Not convinced a Zoom fork will have positive and negative chambers 😅 but that's good advice on suck down for other people with suck down issues. Maybe zoom started making higher end foks again?
Although I work in the bike industry, in former jobs I had a fitness degree. I wanted to make a comment about wider bars. I'm sure most people have done lunges or squats to get in better condition for riding. In those movements,, fitness experts always remind us to not have your knees go beyond your toes. When your knees are not beyond your toes, they are then supported by the remainder of our bodies...hips, back etc...The same thing is true for wider handlebars, as our hands are taking more of the force from riding than they would if they were narrower and then our elbows, shoulders and back can help support those forces. Grips may help a bit, but in the end wider bars do distribute those forces in other parts of our bodies... namely hands.
I’m 5ft 11in and currently 415lbs. I bought a new leftover 2022 trek top fuel 5 to help make losing weight more fun. Turns out the max limit on pretty much every bike like this I can find is 300 or less…I have yet to ride it due to the fear of breaking it. I just bought fox 34 forks and a Fox X2 shock to help with more adjustability Over the weak/entry level stock suspension. Now I’m afraid of the wheels not being able to handle my weight. It’s very disappointing that no one makes bike parts for heavy riders, at least not that I can find. Even when I went into the bike shop I got the feel that no one wanted to help me due to my size. If anyone has any advice I’d greatly appreciate it!
You’re not using your bike, so it’s a sunk cost, imagine the money has gone to zero and it’s worthless, so why not ride it and see what happens? It’s made strong enough to jump off things and smash out trails with 300lb on board so riding gently on flat smooth surfaces with 450lb on board should allow it to fail in a safe way if it’s going to fail. That was the calculation I made and the one you need to make for yourself.
I just did flat paths gently until I dropped enough weight. I did break a spoke and immediately walked home and had both wheels rebuilt by the local pro wheel builder with the strongest spokes they had. At 415lb you have really strong legs already so be gentle in your pedalling and listen for any strange noises.
They make tandems that carry two (or three or more) people and luggage and they seem to do this with normal tires and relatively normal components, although the wheels usually have a very high spoke count. I was quite prepared to buy new tandem hubs, and rims to get a higher spoke count, but so far, weight loss and a pro wheel builder have sorted me out. You probably need to regularly check your saddle and seat post too. Don’t want that failing 😳. Good luck.
#AskGMBNTech If I use a higher classification bike (e.g., class 4), will the weight limit increase if I only ride on class 3 tracks? For example, if a class 4 bike has a weight limit of 140 kg, could that limit increase to 154-168 kg because I am only riding on class 3 trails?
Can you do a vidoe on sticky brand new XTR levers one mine just got the rear is slower and doesn't feel as fast and smooth as the front one and not wanting to use anything on the piston just yet till find out if the hydrolic fluid is there inside the lever piston not wanting to cross contaminate
I think you can find a YT video on how to clean the brake pistons. It sounds like there might be a sticky piston in your brakes.
weakest link idea on the frame weight limit....
#ASKGMBNTECH
I just went from a Canyon Spectral to a Propain Hugene, the canyon has 90% anti squat and the hugene has 110%.
They say the anti squat increases when you are in an easier gear, how does the chain affect the suspension anti squat?
These comments are weird.
@@drifterdogs all the bots are so annoying
#askgmbntech how much difference would getting a second set of XC spec wheels and tyres for my Boardman MTR make? I enjoy taking it to BPW but also want to do long XC loops.
Are you guys fans of Rock Shox Recon Silver TK 26" shocks? Amazon has two pairs, coil spring 100mm for $270.00🍁 and 100mm air for $390.00🍁. And do you know the weight a person can be for the coil version? When I bought a pair of Judy XC's in 2000 for $471.00🍁 I had to buy springs more for my weight.
Rockshox doesn’t offer different coil weights for the Recon, at least for the 27.5 and 29er version. If the medium spring is not suitable you have to upgrade to the airspring
@@Justin-ny6un Thanks🤘🤘
On the subject of bottles, why is it so hard to find bike bottles with caps over the lids, I get that it's easier to drink from in a hurry if you don't have one, but Id rather have to take a couple of extra seconds than drink mud :)
On Amazon I bought some bike bottle caps and nipples that fit on Camelbak Podium insulated bottles b/c I wanted the protecton from dirt. Not expensive and work well.
#ASKGMBNTECH ok so ive got a 2016 whyte t130s that has a gxp bb can i swap the bb and cranks to dub or is the bottom bracket frame dependent?
Is it just me or is Anna HOT !
ask GMBN tech why do they not make peddle forward bikes with better gearing than a seven or 9 speed ?
Pedal-forward geometry is so inefficient no number of gears would save it. So the key is simply sit comfortably and enjoy the ride. For that even 9 is more than plenty.
The way she looks at us with compassion🥰🌹, is straight heart melting. She really wants to give us the information 🧡
#askgmbntech Sorry, but your answer on weight limits was pretty lame. You have an audience of large and heavy people looking to improve their health by riding and you just copped out as normal sized people are wont to do.
Maybe imagine all bikes as a 60kg system weight you’d understand our frustration.
I’d ask if you’re using a bike over weight but below its functional performance, is there any leeway? No jumping, no kerbs, no standing to pedal, fire roads only, or even local pavement, just steady zone one and two sort of thing.
You both have experience of riding hundreds of bikes, and fixing bikes that get taken to racing extremes. That’s the knowledge we need when we go and buy just one.
Make the bike industry STANDARDIZE anything.....it will never happen!!!! Count ya lucky stars they stick to metric.....hang on a sec!!! ;-)
Keyword audio commentators are to be ridiculed for their opinions, just as keyboard warriors receive from the former. 🤔
Hi GMBN Tech Team,
Your videos are truly amazing and inspiring! We have a team of professional editors who would love the opportunity to work with you.
Would you like to give us the chance to send you some samples of our work? You can check them out in your spare time.
Thanks,
Kashif Alam