This is a pretty good tip and 4times the length is a good starting point but as you said it will vary with the thickness but what you consider thick work piece may be pretty light for someone making knife sheaths.You make informative videos and most of leather working techniques are kinda universal so keep in mind many types of leather crafters are learning from you.Another major factor is stitch spacing and everyone has their own aesthetic on what looks good 3 mm stitches(pretty small) are going to take a lot more thread and like you said thread is cheap I would suggest starting with 6 times the length then work backwards until you find the formula that works best for your particular style of product.Thank you for the time and considerable effort in making these videos. Keep up unexpectedly good work.
brilliant, many thanks! I also noted your comment that it would take a leather worker to notice the 'flaw'! This is so true in many different crafts, where it would take an expert to notice an error!
Haha I have one coming soon. I have a lot of requests for different content that comes in so I'm trying to do some of each. I'll have a pretty cool long clutch wallet thing coming soon here. Just hanging a couple parts of my design.
So similar question. When stitching something long, say all the way around a belt for example. Could you just do several shorter set of stitches than dealing with such a long piece of thread? Have you found a better way of hand stitching around belts?
Thanks for this - I don't know how many stated 3X in what I've seen. My first hand sewing project and also, lots say arms length for threads to save on pulling time and it sure did not seem as many started out with how to splice in or however to start in with fresh length.
I use upholstry thread from Walmart. Pretty cheap. When you go to burn the ends it will burn through the stitching so I put some Elmers glue on the knot and loose ends then burn it down.
The written instructions show the new thread being inserted in the hole located one stitch before where you left off. Effectively it is creating one back stitch with the new thread length. Instructions then say to continue saddle stitching. In your demo you are inserting your new thread in the hole where you left off, you do not back stitch, but rather continue forward. The stitching will not be secure without the backstitch. That’s key to the written procedure. This is why when you examine the diagrams it’s drawn with one backstitch at the join. Now if you are trying to avoid the telltale sign of a join then there are ways to finish your thread midway with a knot and bury that knot between the leather layers. That technique however would only work on thicker leathers. Please correct me if I’ve not understood what you’ve done. Thanks very much for sharing the excerpt - very helpful.
Nope you've definitely understood what I did. I've tried it exactly as written in Stohlman's book but do it like this because I like it to look like one continuous stitch line. That one backstitch at the splice drives me crazy. In my experience the stitch is plenty secure without the back stitch, but you're definitely correct in that the backstitch method as he wrote it is more secure. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods thank you for verifying. i was researching this issue a bit last night and I saw on a leather working forum where someone commented that they don’t backstitch at the join either. They stated that there are three threads in the hole at the join and so the hole is packed and unlikely to unstitch even if you don’t backstitch. Seems plausible. I mostly use a leather machine to sew but now and then I run into tight areas that I can’t get the cylinder arm in or the foot around like attaching rounded handles so I’m trying to improve my hand sewing technique. Granted my hand stitched runs are short and it’s unlikely I would run out of thread. Thanks again for sharing your know how. Sandy
Great tip! I would guess this would work perfectly when you want to stitch something that would require way too much thread to comfortably stitch. You could stitch an arm length or two at a time, which in my opinion is much easier than trying to pull 5 or more meters of thread.
Hey Otto! Thanks for the kind words. This one is by Wing & Wave designs. I don't think he has a website but search for him on Instagram. He's a good dude and it's an awesome pony.
That 4K looks awesome brother! I keep forgetting my camera shoots 4K. I don’t shoot in it much just because it feels wasted on Instagram lol I’ve shot 4K with clients for their videos… guess I better take advantage of that 4K RUclips quality. 🤘🏼
I’m learning, and I started measuring 6 time the length to avoid any complications. What we, new to the hobby, do is trying to save on materials. For beginners is quite expensive to start, because we have nothing, including experience.
I love your videos but I'm a bit confused by this one. In Al Stohlman's guide (the page you referenced) it says to start one hole back from the last stitch (that you tied above). In this video it appears you start in the hole that the stitch ended which means the new thread doesn't tie off the old one?
Good eye! I have tried both ways, but I found that it's not necessary to overlap the one stitch and also it makes it very visible where you ran out of thread. It's essentially one backstitch right in the middle of the stitch line. Just make sure that when you melt it, you really push it against the other thread so it bonds. Overlapping the one stitch will definitely be stronger (and two, even more so), but unless this is a saddle or something getting beat up all day, I think it's overkill. I haven't had anything fail doing it this way yet. You're absolutely right, though.
Thanks, I went 6 times but forgot that my sheath was extremely thick about 25mm lol. From what your saying 4 times should cover about 5mm thickness. different topic my white waxes thread get very dirty. How do i stop this happening?
Hey man, i have another question regarding stamping logos onto leather. I bought a makers mark with my logo on it that came with a handle. Ive seen videos where people just strike it with a hammer onto the leather and it works but not for me. I dont have money for one of those press machines amd i was wondering if you have any tips for it. Ive gotten confused with hot stamping vs cold stamping and what not. Hope u can help !
To hammer it in, I think your stamp has to have a very small surface area. Before I had my arbor press, I used a $20 wood clamp that I used to imprint my stamp. It's a bit tedious but it works. Just make sure you case the leather (get it wet) first. Hot stamping is generally used for chrome tan leather as they won't take a stamp very well without heat. What kind of leather are you using?
Thanks, i am using mostly veg tan but i have some chrome tan mixed in that i use for scrap projects. But i see what ur saying now, i will try out the water and clamping.
Hey Tim. Background is much, much better. Thank you. I usually measure 4 and a little more. This tip seems so simple but the end result is terrific. If the company that makes the Thread Zapper makes 1000 of them and half of them do not get hot enough with fresh batteries, who determines who gets the bad ones. (hand raised) I have tried everything to get mine to work. Cleaning the contacts. Fresh batteries. New tip. Nothing works. * Frustrating. I do have one problem I have been trying solve. Sometimes I want to dye my own leather to a none available color. I start with Hermann Oak veg. If I use Fiebings Pro Dye, things go ok. If I use Tandy water based dyes, my leather comes out stiff and uncomfortable. I have tried conditioning the leather with Neatsfoot oil before dying. Then adding more after dying. Nothing makes the leather soft again. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Bruce! I've heard there are good and bad batches of those too! My buddy has one that burns through batteries so fast. I don't understand how. I think I did luck out. As for the leather... I don't do much dying at all. I've heard wax-based moisturizer or saddle soap as soon as the dye has dried. I'll look into this.
So when doing a 36" belt I should use 12-15' of thread? That seems cumbersome. Any tips for how to handle that much thread without it getting twisted up or the wax wearing off?
How do you handle the stich on a longer project (weekender bag). Do you still use the same measurement method (3-4 times longer) or do you do segments using this method? Assuming you can't just stitch the whole piece in one instance...
I made a wallet that's 5-6oz thick. 6x the length is the amount of thread I needed. Maybe it was because I use 3mm chisels? I don't know, but it's a lot more than you suggested
How about a leather buying guide based upon your own experiences starting in the craft? I’m also in Canada, so I’d be interested to learn about where you source your leather. It seems like there aren’t many in-store options out there, and it feels like a bit of a gamble ordering online. Leather gets expensive fast, so any tips you have would be greatly appreciated.
This is a great idea! I'll start working on that. As for where I get mine: I mainly go through OA Leather Supply. He has a good variety and I like that he posts videos of him handling and talking about each leather he has. Next best thing to walking into the store I figure!
if you times the length by the thickness of leather you're stitching together (for anything over 4mm thick) that will normally get you by In my experience it works well for 5-7mm I've not got much experience above that.
Is it better to use waxed thread or plain? Because when i use wax thread, my stitches all look different and each stitch twists in a weird way because of the wax
Where this becomes a common issue is in hand sewing belts…ever try to wrangle 4-5 arms length of thread?…best idea for efficiency in that case is 1 arms length maybe a bit more and yes you’ll use your method but it’ll save you the headache of dealing with 20 ft of thread
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods kinda what I figured. I would have to lock that stitch one way or another, but probably just over concerned. I’m the kinda guy who back stitches both the start & end of my run.
Haha I do as well. I have a few pieces I use where I've done this technique and none gave failed. I wonder how I could run a durability test on different stitches...
Where I get into trouble is when you have threaded thread made out of 3 smaller threads. With the sale stitch I sometimes accidently put the needle through the thread instead of alongside of it. This disentagles the waxed thread. It can be saved, but only 3 times or so before it becomes an issue to keep using it. I have absolutely no clue how to prevent this from happening. Anyone?
What have I done few hour ago. 65 cm zipper and I have cut 3 meter thread to be on the safe side. But 65 cm zipper is 130 cm actually. One side is 65 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Always good to learn how to splice, I almost never stitch with more thread than my wingspan, less tangling or fighting with thread, less fraying of thread etc...
The drawing and text actually show to insert the needles one hole back from the last stitch...
Thanks for the guidance, though! 👏
This is a pretty good tip and 4times the length is a good starting point but as you said it will vary with the thickness but what you consider thick work piece may be pretty light for someone making knife sheaths.You make informative videos and most of leather working techniques are kinda universal so keep in mind many types of leather crafters are learning from you.Another major factor is stitch spacing and everyone has their own aesthetic on what looks good 3 mm stitches(pretty small) are going to take a lot more thread and like you said thread is cheap I would suggest starting with 6 times the length then work backwards until you find the formula that works best for your particular style of product.Thank you for the time and considerable effort in making these videos. Keep up unexpectedly good work.
Great tip, just ran into this problem on a project, this video was the first result on my RUclips search for a solution.
I'm glad it helped!
Thanks! You saved my D&D dice bag I’m making for my teen’s 17th birthday!
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!
brilliant, many thanks! I also noted your comment that it would take a leather worker to notice the 'flaw'! This is so true in many different crafts, where it would take an expert to notice an error!
Great tip man! Spot on! Glad you’re back. Now let’s get a project going.
Haha I have one coming soon. I have a lot of requests for different content that comes in so I'm trying to do some of each. I'll have a pretty cool long clutch wallet thing coming soon here. Just hanging a couple parts of my design.
Great tip Tim
Thank you!
So similar question. When stitching something long, say all the way around a belt for example. Could you just do several shorter set of stitches than dealing with such a long piece of thread? Have you found a better way of hand stitching around belts?
Cool tip, I remember that from Stolman's book, nice shoutout too.
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Thanks for the info .
Thanks for watching!
That’s something I had to learn myself years ago! Great tip for the beginner, cuz it happens to everyone!
Thanks man!!
Thanks for this - I don't know how many stated 3X in what I've seen. My first hand sewing project and also, lots say arms length for threads to save on pulling time and it sure did not seem as many started out with how to splice in or however to start in with fresh length.
I use upholstry thread from Walmart. Pretty cheap.
When you go to burn the ends it will burn through the stitching so I put some Elmers glue on the knot and loose ends then burn it down.
The written instructions show the new thread being inserted in the hole located one stitch before where you left off. Effectively it is creating one back stitch with the new thread length. Instructions then say to continue saddle stitching. In your demo you are inserting your new thread in the hole where you left off, you do not back stitch, but rather continue forward. The stitching will not be secure without the backstitch. That’s key to the written procedure. This is why when you examine the diagrams it’s drawn with one backstitch at the join. Now if you are trying to avoid the telltale sign of a join then there are ways to finish your thread midway with a knot and bury that knot between the leather layers. That technique however would only work on thicker leathers. Please correct me if I’ve not understood what you’ve done. Thanks very much for sharing the excerpt - very helpful.
Nope you've definitely understood what I did. I've tried it exactly as written in Stohlman's book but do it like this because I like it to look like one continuous stitch line. That one backstitch at the splice drives me crazy. In my experience the stitch is plenty secure without the back stitch, but you're definitely correct in that the backstitch method as he wrote it is more secure.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods thank you for verifying. i was researching this issue a bit last night and I saw on a leather working forum where someone commented that they don’t backstitch at the join either. They stated that there are three threads in the hole at the join and so the hole is packed and unlikely to unstitch even if you don’t backstitch. Seems plausible. I mostly use a leather machine to sew but now and then I run into tight areas that I can’t get the cylinder arm in or the foot around like attaching rounded handles so I’m trying to improve my hand sewing technique. Granted my hand stitched runs are short and it’s unlikely I would run out of thread. Thanks again for sharing your know how. Sandy
Very useful tip!
Great tip! I would guess this would work perfectly when you want to stitch something that would require way too much thread to comfortably stitch. You could stitch an arm length or two at a time, which in my opinion is much easier than trying to pull 5 or more meters of thread.
Absolutely awesome, i appreciate this very much !
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!
Another awesome tip - been there, done that and will probably do it again some time 😁
Hahaha the lead up while you're trying to calculate if you're going to run out or just make it is so stressful
Hello, I was curious as to what brand of stitching pony you are using. Thank you for all the videos, they have been helpful.
Hey Otto! Thanks for the kind words. This one is by Wing & Wave designs. I don't think he has a website but search for him on Instagram. He's a good dude and it's an awesome pony.
Thank you sir!
Very helpful thank you
That 4K looks awesome brother!
I keep forgetting my camera shoots 4K. I don’t shoot in it much just because it feels wasted on Instagram lol I’ve shot 4K with clients for their videos… guess I better take advantage of that 4K RUclips quality. 🤘🏼
I’m learning, and I started measuring 6 time the length to avoid any complications. What we, new to the hobby, do is trying to save on materials. For beginners is quite expensive to start, because we have nothing, including experience.
🙃 yes I will benefit from this. Thank you
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
I love your videos but I'm a bit confused by this one. In Al Stohlman's guide (the page you referenced) it says to start one hole back from the last stitch (that you tied above). In this video it appears you start in the hole that the stitch ended which means the new thread doesn't tie off the old one?
Good eye! I have tried both ways, but I found that it's not necessary to overlap the one stitch and also it makes it very visible where you ran out of thread. It's essentially one backstitch right in the middle of the stitch line.
Just make sure that when you melt it, you really push it against the other thread so it bonds. Overlapping the one stitch will definitely be stronger (and two, even more so), but unless this is a saddle or something getting beat up all day, I think it's overkill. I haven't had anything fail doing it this way yet. You're absolutely right, though.
Thanks man, saved my ass. Only occasionally do leather work so I have to re-learn it all again… forgot the rule for thread length 😬
That happened to me a lot of times hahaha
Thank you very much for the tips!!
It's the worst!! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, I went 6 times but forgot that my sheath was extremely thick about 25mm lol. From what your saying 4 times should cover about 5mm thickness. different topic my white waxes thread get very dirty. How do i stop this happening?
i often work with too short thread, it just makes sense.
Hey man, i have another question regarding stamping logos onto leather. I bought a makers mark with my logo on it that came with a handle. Ive seen videos where people just strike it with a hammer onto the leather and it works but not for me. I dont have money for one of those press machines amd i was wondering if you have any tips for it. Ive gotten confused with hot stamping vs cold stamping and what not. Hope u can help !
To hammer it in, I think your stamp has to have a very small surface area.
Before I had my arbor press, I used a $20 wood clamp that I used to imprint my stamp. It's a bit tedious but it works. Just make sure you case the leather (get it wet) first.
Hot stamping is generally used for chrome tan leather as they won't take a stamp very well without heat.
What kind of leather are you using?
Thanks, i am using mostly veg tan but i have some chrome tan mixed in that i use for scrap projects. But i see what ur saying now, i will try out the water and clamping.
That worked for me for a long time! I only recently got an arbor press.
Hey Tim. Background is much, much better. Thank you. I usually measure 4 and a little more. This tip seems so simple but the end result is terrific. If the company that makes the Thread Zapper makes 1000 of them and half of them do not get hot enough with fresh batteries, who determines who gets the bad ones. (hand raised) I have tried everything to get mine to work. Cleaning the contacts. Fresh batteries. New tip. Nothing works. * Frustrating. I do have one problem I have been trying solve. Sometimes I want to dye my own leather to a none available color. I start with Hermann Oak veg. If I use Fiebings Pro Dye, things go ok. If I use Tandy water based dyes, my leather comes out stiff and uncomfortable. I have tried conditioning the leather with Neatsfoot oil before dying. Then adding more after dying. Nothing makes the leather soft again. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Bruce!
I've heard there are good and bad batches of those too! My buddy has one that burns through batteries so fast. I don't understand how. I think I did luck out.
As for the leather... I don't do much dying at all. I've heard wax-based moisturizer or saddle soap as soon as the dye has dried. I'll look into this.
So when doing a 36" belt I should use 12-15' of thread? That seems cumbersome. Any tips for how to handle that much thread without it getting twisted up or the wax wearing off?
How do you handle the stich on a longer project (weekender bag). Do you still use the same measurement method (3-4 times longer) or do you do segments using this method? Assuming you can't just stitch the whole piece in one instance...
Any tips for doing this if you use linen thread?
I made a wallet that's 5-6oz thick. 6x the length is the amount of thread I needed. Maybe it was because I use 3mm chisels? I don't know, but it's a lot more than you suggested
How about a leather buying guide based upon your own experiences starting in the craft? I’m also in Canada, so I’d be interested to learn about where you source your leather. It seems like there aren’t many in-store options out there, and it feels like a bit of a gamble ordering online. Leather gets expensive fast, so any tips you have would be greatly appreciated.
This is a great idea! I'll start working on that.
As for where I get mine: I mainly go through OA Leather Supply. He has a good variety and I like that he posts videos of him handling and talking about each leather he has. Next best thing to walking into the store I figure!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods I just checked out OA Leather Supply, I think I’ll order from them. Thanks for the tip.
Glad I could help!
if you times the length by the thickness of leather you're stitching together (for anything over 4mm thick) that will normally get you by
In my experience it works well for 5-7mm I've not got much experience above that.
I'll give that a shot! Thanks!
Is it better to use waxed thread or plain? Because when i use wax thread, my stitches all look different and each stitch twists in a weird way because of the wax
Where this becomes a common issue is in hand sewing belts…ever try to wrangle 4-5 arms length of thread?…best idea for efficiency in that case is 1 arms length maybe a bit more and yes you’ll use your method but it’ll save you the headache of dealing with 20 ft of thread
Haha where you have to back up halfway across the room each stitch? Definitely been there
I have to admit: I did it by purpose! Sewing a belt for my size means dealing with more than 7metres (about 8yards) of thread. 😅
I've seen it happen a bit more often if something goes really wrong and a thread breaks than mismeasuring.
Is there a reason you didn’t follow the directions exactly?Specifically referring to step 35 where it says to go back one stitch.
Yes. It just looks like one continuous stitch that way. If you go back a stitch, it's probably more secure, but I've never had an issue either way
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods kinda what I figured. I would have to lock that stitch one way or another, but probably just over concerned. I’m the kinda guy who back stitches both the start & end of my run.
Haha I do as well. I have a few pieces I use where I've done this technique and none gave failed. I wonder how I could run a durability test on different stitches...
Where're you selling your products ?
I used to sell from my website but I've closed my books for now to focus on RUclips.
I broke my thread while saddle stitching a belt about half way through, 20" or so in, how do I fix this and continue my stitch?
Try to unstitch a few holes then use the method from the video.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods would I start with all new thread then too after I back track?
Definitely
Where I get into trouble is when you have threaded thread made out of 3 smaller threads. With the sale stitch I sometimes accidently put the needle through the thread instead of alongside of it. This disentagles the waxed thread. It can be saved, but only 3 times or so before it becomes an issue to keep using it. I have absolutely no clue how to prevent this from happening. Anyone?
What have I done few hour ago. 65 cm zipper and I have cut 3 meter thread to be on the safe side. But 65 cm zipper is 130 cm actually. One side is 65 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Always good to learn how to splice, I almost never stitch with more thread than my wingspan, less tangling or fighting with thread, less fraying of thread etc...
Haha I was just talking about that with my buddy. Mine always catch on one of the knobs of my stitching pony when I use a ton of thread.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Exactly!
Why are you late for one year doing this video 🙄🤔(😜)... I have wasted a lot of threads, time, projects 😥😥
Haha sorry, brother! But now you know!