@RK b Wow, thanks for saying so, I really appreciate that. One of my biggest frustrations when I first bought the Shadow 2, was the lack of detailed videos on disassembly and reassembly.
Christian Grest This is probably the most tedious part, but critical for achieving a smooth trigger, apart from putting 20,000 rounds down range. And thank you for watching! Hope you’ll give it a try.
CZ FanGrrl I’ve done a little bit of polishing on my CZ Scorpion, some Glocks and a couple of AR15 triggers, but not a ton. Hope to add a CZ pistol to my collection sometime soon.
Hi Grrl. Thank you for your vids. It makes me start tune my shadow 2, at this moment i have all of springs replaced and some of lock parts polished and also trigger bar and now its a BIG difference than the stock. Looking forward for more vids with your CZ. Best wishes
verth126 Hi verth126! Thank you so much for the nice feedback! I appreciate that and I’m glad that you were able to polish up your gun following my videos. So simple to do and you’re right, it makes a big difference. I will be posting some new videos shortly, I discovered a firing pin sprin sold by Cesar Shop in Slovenia and it is amazing. 100% better than CGW! It will set off every primer even with the 8.5# main spring. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
That is some awesome polishing work, you may have missed your calling. People will be saying in the future: "I went with the SonjArms trigger bar for my CZ". Hey, you never know. Every company has to start someone where. :) I also like that tape with the bands running through it, we use a ton of it at work.
The jeweller's saw is absolutely not to be used on the surfaces that should remain flat (like the inside of the trigger bar where disconector rides) as the flex in the polishing paper makes it attack and round the edges of that surface much more than the middle of it. The paper should be glued to a narrow hard flat object instead and used as a file.
@Krzystof Doroz Yes, if the grits were less than 400 grit I would absolutely agree with you. In this case I don’t because 400grit and above polish metal as a surface treatment, not for removal of metal. Here’s some information for you on metal removal vs metal polishing, I hope this helps. sandpaperamerica.com/blog/which-sandpaper-grit-do-i-use-on-metal/
@@CZFanGrrlIve worked on precision polished machine parts my entire life and would never consider 400 grit a polish grit. Typically the task at hand determines what’s considered “polishing grit” and “removal grit”. Parts that don’t require any level of precision…sure 400 or 600 are considered polishing. Fire control parts of a handgun…those grits are for metal removal. You’re creating a crown. Evidence of that is in the video, it’s plain to see the edges shining up first then only after enough metal has been remove from the outer edges does the center recieve enough contact pressure to begin to be resurfaced. You definitely are creating a crowned surface instead of flat.
@boognish593 I start at 1200 and work my way up to 12000. In the metalsmithing world where I originate 400 to 900 grit is prepolish. Metal removal is done with 80 to 320grit or with metal files starting with a 0 and working up to a 3 - 8. I work in Gold and silver so it’s a big deal to not remove any more metal than necessary. Thanks for commenting. I can direct you to my jewlery channel if you want to learn metalsmithing.
@@ckim6400 O I know I have felt a couple a friend did a little polishing on his glock and even that little bit made his trigger so much better...and he used JB bore paste on a bore patch on the trigger parts!!
@Droptop BM Thanks for asking. I take 3M microgrit sandpaper and attach reinforced packing tape (with the string embedded in it) to the back of it. Then I cut lengths to fit the frame of the saw and also width to fit what I need to polish. 3M microgrit sandpaper can be found in most decent hardware or automotive shops or Amazon of course. You can pretty much use any saw you have on had that allows you to clamp a blade.
I've been watching several of your videos and found them to be very informative I believe I saw that you were, at one time, running the DPS recoil system. Are you still running that system and did you find it beneficial?
@dennisparham5860 I’m not, in fact I gave it away as part of a subscriber give away. I found the recoil too bouncy. www.ipsc4you.com has a progressive recoil spring that is better than the DPM. I am running their 10# progressive. I also like Eemann Tech.
@@CZFanGrrl Thank you for the information. I also like Eemann Tech. I have bought their tool for replacing the TRA when they break. Keep up the good work on your channel.
SargentRay Hi there, at that point in time, I am going to say no. I didn’t get the Progressives until after I finished the polishing job, the recoil spring in this video would be the 10# CGW recoil spring.
@@CZFanGrrl Oh ok i see, not the progressive one in this video, but you eventually did put the progressive one in. Do you think you could perhaps please, pretty please e-mail me all the parts you've put in to finally get your pistol down to the great 5ish trigger pull end result you attained ? I mean i am jumping from one video to another and still can't figure it out.Thank's in advance raymmenard@hotmail.com
@Juan Bracamonte Thanks for asking. You can reduce both the DA ans the SA by using a lighter main spring. I am using a 9# Eeman Tech. I also run a modified 8# mainspring with three coils cut and my SA is 1.25#. it’s scary light.
Hello again CzFanGrrl, i'm just about to order the parts for the complete trigger job. But i'm a bit confused here, why do you want to replace CGW's Reduced Power Trigger Spring for the Cesar Shop one which they call the Lighter Trigger Spring ? What's the difference ?
SargentRay. Performance, probably not much difference; however, the Cesar - Shop springs are developed for World Class IPSC shooters like Rob Cernigjo, Robin Sebo and Greg Midgley; so if it’s good enough for them, it’s good enough for me, as they have the same access to CGW springs as everyone else has, but they’ve designed their own. Also prices overseas are better for Canadians as well as the shipping. Consider, if you’re in Canada, the CGW RPTS is close to $20 from gunshop.ca, then there’s tax and shipping, even for a spring it’ll be at least $6 minimum, bringing it closer to $27 for a spring. I can get two of them for the same cost with shipping from any of the international shops. I bought 6 of the lighter trigger springs and have changed out the CGW RPTRS for the Cesar - Shop springs in both of my S2’s. I tested the trigger pull and noted even more reduction in the D/A trigger pull, maybe about 0.25lb over what the CGW is able to produce. Hope this helps!
@@CZFanGrrl Ok ok i understand now, makes perfect sense too. What was confusing me is that you had many parts from CGW so i assumed you were getting whatever you couldn't get from Cesar Shop from them. So if i understand correctly i should try to get everything from Cesar to begin with. But like the 8.5 pds Main/Hammer spring i have to get from CGW because they don't have it a Cesar Shop right ?.
@SargentRay Yes, sorry for any confusion. When I first started doing my trigger job, I had no idea that there were international suppliers (all IPSC shooters themselves) that would ship parts to Canada. When I had posted one of my videos to a competitive shooting forum site, I got a response back from a GM IPSC shooter from my home province, who told me about these international suppliers because the CGW parts are almost always sold out in Canada. This has a just made things so much easier having these international suppliers. Some things they don’t have, like the 8.5# main spring, however, one of them, SeboWeapons, I think, has 9# and 10# main springs which are more reliable with setting off the harder primers, because that’s all they have in Europe it seems. I have not yet tried (or ordered) the 9#, but I probably will at some point. I Would definitely recommend the Euro parts from any of the three suppliers over there. They’re all top notch quality, the customer service is excellent and the shipping is fast and super reasonable. It’s a win - win for me.
@@CZFanGrrl Now i completely understand, Thank you for yet another detailed answer. You see for me it was the contrary; when i first got my S2, the first vids i found were from Cesar Shop. I found out about CGW only several months later. But to make a long story short all i really want is to upgrade my trigger as much as you did as long as i get 100% ignition with every primers out there, since i start out with Blazers from Bullseye out in London, which i later reload (but'll be with Federal primers from now on). Perhaps a stiffer main spring would give me that insurance, but i was under the impression after seeing your tests that as long as i put a soft soft firing pin spring on an extended firing pin i would get that 100% ignition rate. Also i forgot to ask did you end up switching the extractor spring for a stiffer one ? Again thank you for your patience. I don't have the budget to buy all the internals as spare parts, so when i start doing it myself i'll be working on my original trigger bar, sear cage and so on. So i ask a lot of questions (ok too many) in order to do it right the 1st time you know ? By the way i am Canadian i live on the south shore of Montreal in the province of Quebec. Sorry about the election results here, i did my part but it wasn't enough... :-)
Did you also replace the firing pin spring? My understanding is, if you run a hammer spring lighter than OEM, you have to lighten up the firing pin spring (and in my case, the firing pin bloc safety).
george evans I am indeed running a lighter firing pin spring as well as an extended firing pin. I’m locked into Federal Primers only. Some people can run Winchester and other primers, but I get a 20% failure (first strike) running anything but Federal, 100% ignition on second pull with brands other than Federal. And Federal is 100% ignition every time. I’ve been playing around with the springs a bit more now and instead of CGW 8.5# I am running Eeman Tech 7# and cutting 4 coils off of the 7# spring. Gives me a sub 5.5# D/A and sub 1.5# S/A.
Awww...thanks. I probably won’t do the polish job...no patience...lol. But on my CZ 75D Compact PCR I have replaced the guide rode (steel), the recoil spring, the trigger return spring, the hammer spring, the firing pin (extended firing pin), the firing pin spring, the bloc safety spring and the sights (Dawson steel/night sights custom for the PCR). Probably just should have bought a new gun...lol. But this puppy is tack-accurate, responsive, balanced and the spring upgrades have cut the trigger pull by 50% (went with the 13# hammer spring to keep it safe for EDC). I can’t imagine that there is a ballistic tic-tac box in the world that can holdup to a tricked out CZ...lol.
@george evans. Yes EDC is a completely different ball of wax. We don’t have any carry laws in Canada, except that we can’t, anywhere. Unless you’re a trapper, a miner, or someone who’s life is in danger and the police wouldn’t be able to protect them in time. If I were a trapper, I’d much rather have a shot gun for protection against wildlife. Sounds like your guns are tuned up pretty nicely! Having a tack driver is nice! And I couldn’t agree with you mor eon your last sentence!! :)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
The best shadow 2 how to videos on RUclips. Super helpful.
Great job
@RK b Wow, thanks for saying so, I really appreciate that. One of my biggest frustrations when I first bought the Shadow 2, was the lack of detailed videos on disassembly and reassembly.
Thank you so very much for all your post's , such a wealth of content !
@Steve Golden Thank you! I appreciate the feedback!
Great job going through the process...very detailed and should help many folks looking to improve their trigger. Thanks for sharing!
Christian Grest This is probably the most tedious part, but critical for achieving a smooth trigger, apart from putting 20,000 rounds down range. And thank you for watching! Hope you’ll give it a try.
CZ FanGrrl I’ve done a little bit of polishing on my CZ Scorpion, some Glocks and a couple of AR15 triggers, but not a ton. Hope to add a CZ pistol to my collection sometime soon.
Christian Grest Outstanding! You won’t be disappointed.
Hi Grrl. Thank you for your vids. It makes me start tune my shadow 2, at this moment i have all of springs replaced and some of lock parts polished and also trigger bar and now its a BIG difference than the stock. Looking forward for more vids with your CZ. Best wishes
verth126 Hi verth126! Thank you so much for the nice feedback! I appreciate that and I’m glad that you were able to polish up your gun following my videos. So simple to do and you’re right, it makes a big difference. I will be posting some new videos shortly, I discovered a firing pin sprin sold by Cesar Shop in Slovenia and it is amazing. 100% better than CGW! It will set off every primer even with the 8.5# main spring. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
verth126 cesar-shop.com/product/cz75-firing-pin-spring-soft
That tape is reinforced strapping tape. It is used in shipping a lot for boxes with heavy items that standard tapes break. Nice easy polish job!
C Kim Thank you!
How do you know what grit strapping tape is?
Oh I see,you lay the tape down on the 3m paper,cut to size and use the tape as a blade with the 3m paper on the backside.gottcha.
That is some awesome polishing work, you may have missed your calling. People will be saying in the future: "I went with the SonjArms trigger bar for my CZ". Hey, you never know. Every company has to start someone where. :) I also like that tape with the bands running through it, we use a ton of it at work.
Fumastertoo I’m making you my CEO of marketing dude!
@@CZFanGrrl Outstanding!
Fumastertoo 😊
The jeweller's saw is absolutely not to be used on the surfaces that should remain flat (like the inside of the trigger bar where disconector rides) as the flex in the polishing paper makes it attack and round the edges of that surface much more than the middle of it. The paper should be glued to a narrow hard flat object instead and used as a file.
@Krzystof Doroz Yes, if the grits were less than 400 grit I would absolutely agree with you. In this case I don’t because 400grit and above polish metal as a surface treatment, not for removal of metal. Here’s some information for you on metal removal vs metal polishing, I hope this helps. sandpaperamerica.com/blog/which-sandpaper-grit-do-i-use-on-metal/
@@CZFanGrrlIve worked on precision polished machine parts my entire life and would never consider 400 grit a polish grit. Typically the task at hand determines what’s considered “polishing grit” and “removal grit”. Parts that don’t require any level of precision…sure 400 or 600 are considered polishing. Fire control parts of a handgun…those grits are for metal removal. You’re creating a crown. Evidence of that is in the video, it’s plain to see the edges shining up first then only after enough metal has been remove from the outer edges does the center recieve enough contact pressure to begin to be resurfaced. You definitely are creating a crowned surface instead of flat.
@boognish593 I start at 1200 and work my way up to 12000. In the metalsmithing world where I originate 400 to 900 grit is prepolish. Metal removal is done with 80 to 320grit or with metal files starting with a 0 and working up to a 3 - 8. I work in Gold and silver so it’s a big deal to not remove any more metal than necessary. Thanks for commenting. I can direct you to my jewlery channel if you want to learn metalsmithing.
Nice job as should turn out well...Good stuff....
@Scott F Thank you. Hopefully as good as the competition gun, which is now set to become my practice gun
I second that
Great another rabbit hole to look down maybe see how deep it goes?? I have lots of triggers that feel like crap!!
@Chis 338 The stock S2 trigger is great, with the polishing, it’s out of this world. I think any gun will benefit from this. No more gritty triggers!
@@CZFanGrrl Hehe, once we are spoiled there's no looking back! ;>)
@@ckim6400 none of mine have been polished except a couple of old revolvers all others are stock crap LOL!!
@@chris3383 You would be surprized with a little work how nice a trigger can get over stock.
@@ckim6400 O I know I have felt a couple a friend did a little polishing on his glock and even that little bit made his trigger so much better...and he used JB bore paste on a bore patch on the trigger parts!!
what kinda of sandpaper are you using on the saw ?
@Droptop BM Thanks for asking. I take 3M microgrit sandpaper and attach reinforced packing tape (with the string embedded in it) to the back of it. Then I cut lengths to fit the frame of the saw and also width to fit what I need to polish. 3M microgrit sandpaper can be found in most decent hardware or automotive shops or Amazon of course. You can pretty much use any saw you have on had that allows you to clamp a blade.
I've been watching several of your videos and found them to be very informative I believe I saw that you were, at one time, running the DPS recoil system. Are you still running that system and did you find it beneficial?
@dennisparham5860 I’m not, in fact I gave it away as part of a subscriber give away. I found the recoil too bouncy. www.ipsc4you.com has a progressive recoil spring that is better than the DPM. I am running their 10# progressive. I also like Eemann Tech.
@@CZFanGrrl Thank you for the information. I also like Eemann Tech. I have bought their tool for replacing the TRA when they break. Keep up the good work on your channel.
25 years ago my jewelry teacher told me... If you want to know the qualifications of a jeweler look at the thumb nails.
Quick question; Is the recoil spring a progressive one ?
SargentRay Hi there, at that point in time, I am going to say no. I didn’t get the Progressives until after I finished the polishing job, the recoil spring in this video would be the 10# CGW recoil spring.
@@CZFanGrrl Oh ok i see, not the progressive one in this video, but you eventually did put the progressive one in. Do you think you could perhaps please, pretty please e-mail me all the parts you've put in to finally get your pistol down to the great 5ish trigger pull end result you attained ? I mean i am jumping from one video to another and still can't figure it out.Thank's in advance raymmenard@hotmail.com
Hello cz fan grrl I have a question how can i reduce the single action of a cz shadow 2 …Right now it’s 2,5 pound i would like to have 2 pound
@Juan Bracamonte Thanks for asking. You can reduce both the DA ans the SA by using a lighter main spring. I am using a 9# Eeman Tech. I also run a modified 8# mainspring with three coils cut and my SA is 1.25#. it’s scary light.
Hello again CzFanGrrl, i'm just about to order the parts for the complete trigger job. But i'm a bit confused here, why do you want to replace CGW's Reduced Power Trigger Spring for the Cesar Shop one which they call the Lighter Trigger Spring ? What's the difference ?
SargentRay. Performance, probably not much difference; however, the Cesar - Shop springs are developed for World Class IPSC shooters like Rob Cernigjo, Robin Sebo and Greg Midgley; so if it’s good enough for them, it’s good enough for me, as they have the same access to CGW springs as everyone else has, but they’ve designed their own. Also prices overseas are better for Canadians as well as the shipping. Consider, if you’re in Canada, the CGW RPTS is close to $20 from gunshop.ca, then there’s tax and shipping, even for a spring it’ll be at least $6 minimum, bringing it closer to $27 for a spring. I can get two of them for the same cost with shipping from any of the international shops. I bought 6 of the lighter trigger springs and have changed out the CGW RPTRS for the Cesar - Shop springs in both of my S2’s. I tested the trigger pull and noted even more reduction in the D/A trigger pull, maybe about 0.25lb over what the CGW is able to produce. Hope this helps!
@@CZFanGrrl Ok ok i understand now, makes perfect sense too. What was confusing me is that you had many parts from CGW so i assumed you were getting whatever you couldn't get from Cesar Shop from them. So if i understand correctly i should try to get everything from Cesar to begin with. But like the 8.5 pds Main/Hammer spring i have to get from CGW because they don't have it a Cesar Shop right ?.
@SargentRay Yes, sorry for any confusion. When I first started doing my trigger job, I had no idea that there were international suppliers (all IPSC shooters themselves) that would ship parts to Canada. When I had posted one of my videos to a competitive shooting forum site, I got a response back from a GM IPSC shooter from my home province, who told me about these international suppliers because the CGW parts are almost always sold out in Canada. This has a just made things so much easier having these international suppliers. Some things they don’t have, like the 8.5# main spring, however, one of them, SeboWeapons, I think, has 9# and 10# main springs which are more reliable with setting off the harder primers, because that’s all they have in Europe it seems. I have not yet tried (or ordered) the 9#, but I probably will at some point. I Would definitely recommend the Euro parts from any of the three suppliers over there. They’re all top notch quality, the customer service is excellent and the shipping is fast and super reasonable. It’s a win - win for me.
@@CZFanGrrl Now i completely understand, Thank you for yet another detailed answer. You see for me it was the contrary; when i first got my S2, the first vids i found were from Cesar Shop. I found out about CGW only several months later. But to make a long story short all i really want is to upgrade my trigger as much as you did as long as i get 100% ignition with every primers out there, since i start out with Blazers from Bullseye out in London, which i later reload (but'll be with Federal primers from now on). Perhaps a stiffer main spring would give me that insurance, but i was under the impression after seeing your tests that as long as i put a soft soft firing pin spring on an extended firing pin i would get that 100% ignition rate. Also i forgot to ask did you end up switching the extractor spring for a stiffer one ? Again thank you for your patience. I don't have the budget to buy all the internals as spare parts, so when i start doing it myself i'll be working on my original trigger bar, sear cage and so on. So i ask a lot of questions (ok too many) in order to do it right the 1st time you know ? By the way i am Canadian i live on the south shore of Montreal in the province of Quebec. Sorry about the election results here, i did my part but it wasn't enough... :-)
Did you also replace the firing pin spring? My understanding is, if you run a hammer spring lighter than OEM, you have to lighten up the firing pin spring (and in my case, the firing pin bloc safety).
george evans I am indeed running a lighter firing pin spring as well as an extended firing pin. I’m locked into Federal Primers only. Some people can run Winchester and other primers, but I get a 20% failure (first strike) running anything but Federal, 100% ignition on second pull with brands other than Federal. And Federal is 100% ignition every time. I’ve been playing around with the springs a bit more now and instead of CGW 8.5# I am running Eeman Tech 7# and cutting 4 coils off of the 7# spring. Gives me a sub 5.5# D/A and sub 1.5# S/A.
Awww...thanks. I probably won’t do the polish job...no patience...lol. But on my CZ 75D Compact PCR I have replaced the guide rode (steel), the recoil spring, the trigger return spring, the hammer spring, the firing pin (extended firing pin), the firing pin spring, the bloc safety spring and the sights (Dawson steel/night sights custom for the PCR). Probably just should have bought a new gun...lol. But this puppy is tack-accurate, responsive, balanced and the spring upgrades have cut the trigger pull by 50% (went with the 13# hammer spring to keep it safe for EDC). I can’t imagine that there is a ballistic tic-tac box in the world that can holdup to a tricked out CZ...lol.
@george evans. Yes EDC is a completely different ball of wax. We don’t have any carry laws in Canada, except that we can’t, anywhere. Unless you’re a trapper, a miner, or someone who’s life is in danger and the police wouldn’t be able to protect them in time. If I were a trapper, I’d much rather have a shot gun for protection against wildlife. Sounds like your guns are tuned up pretty nicely! Having a tack driver is nice! And I couldn’t agree with you mor eon your last sentence!! :)
Good stuff
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