FYI sediment trap is required in California. In case you are interested in gathering national data. I see it on less than half the required appliances I inspect. Also, on a natural draft water heater - not the one shown - a visual check for proper draft should be performed and if suspected, possibly a physical check such as a fogging mirror or smoke. CO is a serious safety issue, I find this on 5-10%.
I like Minnesota's 18" rule, it allows you to place a standard five gallon bucket under your discharge tube. When your relief valve goes, the bucket catches the mess...
I'm currently studying for the NHIE and I learned that discharge tubes on boilers must be within 18 inches and I've always wondered why that's different from water heaters. It's interesting that your state as an 18-in requirement for water heaters as well. I can't help but think there is some correlation. Just thinking out loud. Thanks for the video! I look forward to watching more.
Don't know the exact reference but the tank could explode if the T&P Valve failed and the water shutoff valve were to be closed off on the hot side. Even with no valve on the hot supply side out of the water heater, it the T&P valve failed, there is going to be heck to pay, such as the water heater taking out a portion of the house when it explodes. The closed hot supply valve would just allow it to happen a little sooner is all (probably fraction of a minute difference at most, by reducing the amount of hot line it can push water into), all that super heated water pushes back out the cold inlet anyway.....The theory espoused by the people mentioning the prohibition of shutoff valves in the hot water discharge line (not the TPR drain line) was that opening a valve under a over heat condition would cause a rapid de-pressurization and flashing to steam with a resulting explosion. In theory, I suppose the science says that is possible but......just my 2cents worth. I have a valve on cold side only....and I sleep like a baby...most of the time...LOL
The use of flexible copper tubing with flare fittings for gas line is no longer code acceptable in many jurisdictions and will not meet required guidelines for safety if the mortgage is underwritten by FHA/VA/RD loans.
I just had my gas water heater replaced today. I am happy/not happy about it. First off, I chosed the service based on the (possibly unnecessary) 12 yr full warantee including labor - probably some fine print in there, but I do intend to maintain it annually, so its peace of mind, and I have good past experiences with the company. Then the plumber who was contracted by the company, says it needs double installation for the natural vent, extra $, and the gas piping along the heater 5ft will need to be replace since the replacement model is not exact size, extra $. Now I see it is missing a elbow cap for the natural vent. This later I think may fail the virtual inspection I have schedule with the city inspector in a few days.
Faint smell of gas in my utility room. My gas leak detector is only indicating gas at the vent on top of my AO Smith water heater. No leaks on any external connections, at water heater valve, or at furnace. Burner assembly pilot is lit with clean blue flame, and vent is drafting properly to roof. Air intake screen is clean and unobstructed. I don't understand how there can be gas leaking from water heater vent when the pilot is lit and it's drafting properly? I'm thinking the burner assembly may have a leak somewhere? Any suggestions?
I think you might have missed the bonding/grounding reqs. Expansion tank, seismic straps, the vent rising 1/4" per foot, 18" rise of tank from the floor if located in garage, to name a few..
I have lived in 15 homes during my life and not once has the over heat valve on a gas water heater been activated. I have lived in homes as old as 1903 and as new as 1998, all over the country. Extremely rare event. I have known hundreds of people and have never heard of that happening to them either.
I’m no plumber, but as a home owner I appreciate this informative video. I’m glad to have info. Well done and thank you!
FYI sediment trap is required in California. In case you are interested in gathering national data. I see it on less than half the required appliances I inspect.
Also, on a natural draft water heater - not the one shown - a visual check for proper draft should be performed and if suspected, possibly a physical check such as a fogging mirror or smoke. CO is a serious safety issue, I find this on 5-10%.
I like Minnesota's 18" rule, it allows you to place a standard five gallon bucket under your discharge tube. When your relief valve goes, the bucket catches the mess...
I'm currently studying for the NHIE and I learned that discharge tubes on boilers must be within 18 inches and I've always wondered why that's different from water heaters. It's interesting that your state as an 18-in requirement for water heaters as well. I can't help but think there is some correlation. Just thinking out loud. Thanks for the video! I look forward to watching more.
Don't know the exact reference but the tank could explode if the T&P Valve failed and the water shutoff valve were to be closed off on the hot side.
Even with no valve on the hot supply side out of the water heater, it the T&P valve failed, there is going to be heck to pay, such as the water heater taking out a portion of the house when it explodes. The closed hot supply valve would just allow it to happen a little sooner is all (probably fraction of a minute difference at most, by reducing the amount of hot line it can push water into), all that super heated water pushes back out the cold inlet anyway.....The theory espoused by the people mentioning the prohibition of shutoff valves in the hot water discharge line (not the TPR drain line) was that opening a valve under a over heat condition would cause a rapid de-pressurization and flashing to steam with a resulting explosion. In theory, I suppose the science says that is possible but......just my 2cents worth. I have a valve on cold side only....and I sleep like a baby...most of the time...LOL
The use of flexible copper tubing with flare fittings for gas line is no longer code acceptable in many jurisdictions and will not meet required guidelines for safety if the mortgage is underwritten by FHA/VA/RD loans.
I just had my gas water heater replaced today. I am happy/not happy about it. First off, I chosed the service based on the (possibly unnecessary) 12 yr full warantee including labor - probably some fine print in there, but I do intend to maintain it annually, so its peace of mind, and I have good past experiences with the company.
Then the plumber who was contracted by the company, says it needs double installation for the natural vent, extra $, and the gas piping along the heater 5ft will need to be replace since the replacement model is not exact size, extra $. Now I see it is missing a elbow cap for the natural vent. This later I think may fail the virtual inspection I have schedule with the city inspector in a few days.
Likely not required in your area, but seismic straps are required in certain locales.
Just FYI, this is about checking that the installer did it right, not about how to check the health of water heater.
Faint smell of gas in my utility room. My gas leak detector is only indicating gas at the vent on top of my AO Smith water heater. No leaks on any external connections, at water heater valve, or at furnace. Burner assembly pilot is lit with clean blue flame, and vent is drafting properly to roof. Air intake screen is clean and unobstructed. I don't understand how there can be gas leaking from water heater vent when the pilot is lit and it's drafting properly? I'm thinking the burner assembly may have a leak somewhere? Any suggestions?
I think you might have missed the bonding/grounding reqs. Expansion tank, seismic straps, the vent rising 1/4" per foot, 18" rise of tank from the floor if located in garage, to name a few..
I called out PEX on new construction cause it was 3/4 OD which means it was smaller in ID and the builder told my client I was just being a D!ck 😮😂😂😂
I have lived in 15 homes during my life and not once has the over heat valve on a gas water heater been activated. I have lived in homes as old as 1903 and as new as 1998, all over the country. Extremely rare event. I have known hundreds of people and have never heard of that happening to them either.
Need to use a combustion analyzer
What website do you use to check the age?
Awesome thank you
Love it
👍