Thank you so much, Pam. It means a lot, and it feels good to simply share what I'm learning without getting too tied up in the weekly, more focused videos. Cheers, KC.
Morning. You make some great points in this video. I know that sanding is something that none of us like, but it’s something that we have to do. And the wet sanding is something that im definitely going to start doing. Anything to keep the dust in check. I’m heading out to my shop in a few. Have a great day. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and your expertise with us.
Thanks so much, mate. I'm really glad it was helpful for you. Your comment means a lot to me as it lets me know that I'm providing value to our community. Cheers, Kez.
Its so important to master sanding and finishing for time and quality. People dont realise how much time you spend finishing compared to turning. Thanks for the video. Id also like to point out you need to subtly alter sanding for end grain vs cross grain blanks.
Thank you for leaving your comment, Chris. Your spot on about the end grain and cross grain👍 Finishing is a skill in itself, just like turning it takes time to build up those skills. Thanks again, mate. Kez
My pleasure, mate. I was originally taught to use a rotary. I have tried using a power sander up to 320 grit and found that the rotary leaves a nicer, finer finish (could be user error, haha). But I prefer to use the rotary after 120 grit and up. The power head is a great tool and works tremendously well for removing errors and getting the job started. I'm glad you found it helpful, mate. Did you happen to check out the WAD punch video? Cheers, Kez
@@KerryCorney seems to make sense to at least have a short handled rotary for access if nothing else. One non-standard sanding method i use sometimes for woods prone to tear out is to do an initial sanding with 60/80, then 'skip' to say 320 briefly. It makes the tearouts mich easier to see when you go back and march up through the grits. Yes, watched the wad punch video. The way it works for say Mirka Gold pricing is that 6" discs are just about twice the price as 3". So you get the 2" for free if you don't cost out your time. It just means you need to use a fair amount of 2" to make it worth the cost and time of punches and punching.
@@damienbrand9422 There is that website that we have both used before. Just keep an eye on the quality. I saw a 50-pack for $24, which would produce 350 two-inch discs. Food for thought. A really good brand of sand paper is Hermes. Let me know how you go mate, Kez
Thank you, mate. I think we have found the right videos to create now, focusing on helping our community. I hope that the content will assist people in skipping a few steps and make their journey easier. Cheers, mate, Kezza
Yeah, that would be frustrating, mate. I found a bunch of drills on the Facebook marketplace at a good price. I personally prefer using the corded version too, as it provides consistent power without the worry of losing battery life. I'm glad you enjoyed the video, and thank you for your comment. Feel free to let me know how things go for you. Cheers, Kezza
@orney when you started sanding you were saying how you started with the back of the bowl...and you were standing directly in the line of fire behind the tool rest and not in front of it like when you are using the gouge. 5:22
Oh, I see what you’re saying. In this instance, I’m okay with being there because there’s no other way I can sand it, and I’m not physically turning the pieces, if that makes sense.
The tailstock wasn’t on the lathe during the video. I think you’re referring to the headstock. 👍 I don’t see how you would sand a large bowl like the one I have in the video on the lathe any other way.
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Hi KC...
You're becoming quite the mentor... excellent coverage on sanding...
🌿🌿🌿
Thank you so much, Pam. It means a lot, and it feels good to simply share what I'm learning without getting too tied up in the weekly, more focused videos. Cheers, KC.
Morning. You make some great points in this video. I know that sanding is something that none of us like, but it’s something that we have to do. And the wet sanding is something that im definitely going to start doing. Anything to keep the dust in check. I’m heading out to my shop in a few. Have a great day. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and your expertise with us.
thanks so much watching Keith I’m really glad I could help mate. Let me know how you go. Cheers mate
Very helpful as always Kerry 🧡
Thanks so much, mate. I'm really glad it was helpful for you. Your comment means a lot to me as it lets me know that I'm providing value to our community.
Cheers,
Kez.
Its so important to master sanding and finishing for time and quality. People dont realise how much time you spend finishing compared to turning. Thanks for the video. Id also like to point out you need to subtly alter sanding for end grain vs cross grain blanks.
Thank you for leaving your comment, Chris.
Your spot on about the end grain and cross grain👍
Finishing is a skill in itself, just like turning it takes time to build up those skills.
Thanks again, mate.
Kez
Great tips. I really enjoy your videos.
Thank you so much Ken. Means a lot. Thank you.
kez
Another great one. Thanks brother.
Thank you brother. Were on the right path now with content.
Cheers,
Kezza
Love seeing Vicmark lathes. Sharks, big sliders, and great lathes.
There the best in the business mate. Thanks for joining in on the conversation mate. Cheers, Kez
Great video, very helpful. You have a new subscriber!
Thanks, Andy. I am glad it was helpful; please let me know if there are any topics you want me to cover in the future. Cheer,
KC
Thanks for the comments on the rotary Sanders
My pleasure, mate. I was originally taught to use a rotary. I have tried using a power sander up to 320 grit and found that the rotary leaves a nicer, finer finish (could be user error, haha). But I prefer to use the rotary after 120 grit and up. The power head is a great tool and works tremendously well for removing errors and getting the job started.
I'm glad you found it helpful, mate. Did you happen to check out the WAD punch video?
Cheers,
Kez
@@KerryCorney seems to make sense to at least have a short handled rotary for access if nothing else. One non-standard sanding method i use sometimes for woods prone to tear out is to do an initial sanding with 60/80, then 'skip' to say 320 briefly. It makes the tearouts mich easier to see when you go back and march up through the grits. Yes, watched the wad punch video. The way it works for say Mirka Gold pricing is that 6" discs are just about twice the price as 3". So you get the 2" for free if you don't cost out your time. It just means you need to use a fair amount of 2" to make it worth the cost and time of punches and punching.
Super-helpful!! Thank you Legend!!
My pleasure, mate. Did you happen to check out the WAD punch video? ruclips.net/video/CHAfU_VqdRs/видео.html
@@KerryCorney That I did! And subsequently began pricing 6 inch sanding discs... 🤣
@@damienbrand9422 There is that website that we have both used before. Just keep an eye on the quality. I saw a 50-pack for $24, which would produce 350 two-inch discs. Food for thought. A really good brand of sand paper is Hermes. Let me know how you go mate,
Kez
@@KerryCorney That is where I'm searching 😀
Great vid well explained old mate
That's a big tick for me then, mate. Thank you so much!
Kez
Cracking vid mate. Lots of helpful info. Cheers.
Thank you, mate.
I think we have found the right videos to create now, focusing on helping our community. I hope that the content will assist people in skipping a few steps and make their journey easier. Cheers, mate,
Kezza
Very good. I use a Metabo die grinder on its slowest speed and this works well, though a little heavy.
Yeah, that would be frustrating, mate. I found a bunch of drills on the Facebook marketplace at a good price. I personally prefer using the corded version too, as it provides consistent power without the worry of losing battery life. I'm glad you enjoyed the video, and thank you for your comment. Feel free to let me know how things go for you.
Cheers,
Kezza
What sanding pads do you use
I was using Smith and Arrow and now I just order bulk packs from online. They have no brand label on them sorry mate.
No, standing behind the tool rest is going to be the first place the bowl goes when it goes flying.
Can you give more information about what you're referring to? Cheers.
@orney when you started sanding you were saying how you started with the back of the bowl...and you were standing directly in the line of fire behind the tool rest and not in front of it like when you are using the gouge. 5:22
Oh, I see what you’re saying. In this instance, I’m okay with being there because there’s no other way I can sand it, and I’m not physically turning the pieces, if that makes sense.
@@KerryCorney that does make sense...but I was always told standing by the tail stock was a bad place to be.
The tailstock wasn’t on the lathe during the video. I think you’re referring to the headstock. 👍 I don’t see how you would sand a large bowl like the one I have in the video on the lathe any other way.