Check out my latest project: ruclips.net/video/yXQnydST9fw/видео.html Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please let me know by hitting the like button. Don't forget to subscribe because new content is uploaded regularly. This channel is focused on promoting education and innovation in renewable energy technologies. If you're interested then you can help support and become a part of this endeavor by becoming a Patreon or RUclips channel member: Check out the complete build video for the 3 kW Reaper turbine: ruclips.net/video/EPmW-BjCiWI/видео.html Website: www.renewablesystemstechnology.com Patreon support: bit.ly/SupportOnPatreon RUclips membership: bit.ly/RUclipsMemberships Follow RST on Facebook: bit.ly/RSTFacebook
this video pops up in my sugestions. watched the video and thaught to myself:"this guy knows what he is doing, I like his approach. I should subscribe!" Turns out I already am subscribing to this chanell. well- if I could I would double subscribe.
A friend of mine is building a turbine I’m helping them we’ve made her own blades out of two by fours and we’re going to use the washing machine motor degenerate electricity to charge batteries to Compton state for not having enough solar panels if you’re interested you could check it out it’s down in my video list at this point hope to hear from you keep up the great work God bless Ken. I need your community, Looks like it’s gonna come out really nice thanks for sharing what you’re doing I really hope to hear from you I’m a new supporter keep up the great work👍
You can make a small generator, with little neodimium magnets and less than 1kg of copper wires. That is a good way to do it without spend a lot of money.
Thank you very much for this vedio, but have a question: How can I calculate the number of turns, the wire clip and the number of coils, for a specific watt please ?
Really like the work James, have you considered using a carbon fibre non ferrous rotor plate. It may improve the performance of the magnets as it wont choke down the flux lines so much i'd expect. Just a thought??
Thanks! The rotor plates actually have to be steel, this helps direct the flux from mag to mag and plate to plate through the coils much better than if the plates were non ferrous. Others have tried non ferrous and composite plates, and I've considered it long ago myself, but thanks to Google I learned from their failures and not mine lol. They don't work. At least half of the flux is lost because the rotor doesn't have the proper magnetic properties to redirect it from flowing outside of the generator to inside it where it belongs. Folks like Hugh Piggott, Chris Olsen, and the crew at the Back shed have done quite a bit of research in this and published a few animations showing how the flux behaves in a dual rotor axial flux generator or motor. Google 'axial flux animation', you'll find quite a few. The mag poles are alternated on the plates, and the plates are skewed so that alternating poles (N-S) from each plate face each other. With a thin stator, this causes the flux to flow axially straight through the coils between the mag's, then the steel picks up the flux and carries it straight over to the adjacent magnet, and back through the coils to the opposite plate again, and so on. This is why an axial flux machine is so thin, because it needs a small air gap between the rotors to get the most out of the flux. This is also why radial flux stators have steel cores, to help move the flux through the relatively thicker coils and larger air gaps that can be found in radial gen's. If most radial generators didn't have steel cores for the coils, then it would be much harder if not impossible for the flux to travel all of the way through them - the field is only so big. This is also what makes the axial flux generator superior to the radial flux imo. Because the steel in a radial flux machine is in the stator and not the rotor, every time a magnet passes a coil it wants to naturally lock in position over it, causing a resistance called 'cogging'. In turn, more wind power is needed to overcome it, which inevitably affects production efficiency. Axial flux generators don't have this problem because the steel is in the rotor with the mag's, and the air core stators are much thinner (with wider coils so as not to compromise copper content) to allow the flux to naturally travel between the plates easily. The 'pancake' design also allows for stacking multiple stators and rotors together, as I'm doing. Something that can't be done near as cost effectively with radial gen's.
@@JamesBiggar Does any of that change if you are making a motor rather than a generator? Also, if weight were an issue, could you use smaller pieces of steel behind the magnets and make the main structural component of the plate out of carbon fibre (forged carbon maybe?)? Would that adequately direct the flux?
Once I seen the loader on mags, it looked awesome. I plan on using N53 mag's for next stator build. Because of a thicker type stator. I wonder when you have your turbine producing, are you going to test for thermal production? I have to get a thermal gun. Good job and thanks for sharing 😃
For sure buddy. Should be interesting to see how well it dissipates heat with the cooling ports. I have a thermal imaging camera, it's not the greatest but should do the job. Maybe next time I'll add NTC temp sensors in the stator casting for better accuracy and data logging. Thanks for the comment Billy!
Good question. Magnetic shielding. Omega makes shielded sensors (I use their 4 channel data logger). Whether they'll stand up to this application, I'm not sure. But only one way to find out. If they don't, I can always DIY. Magnetic shielding isn't very difficult to achieve.
I saw your previous comments about the iron being necessary to produce and control magnetic flux. Would laminating steel plates like in transformers have any benefit to said magnetic flux?
The steel rotor plates capture the flux from the mags and, combined with the alternating mag poles, redirects it into the stator so there's little to no loss of flux outside of the generator - it's concentrated where it needs to be. Steel laminations would do the same thing, but would be less stable - the rotor discs should be solid. Using steel rotor discs with an axial flux configuration eliminates the need for steel laminations in the stator core (hence why the stators in axial flux machines are typically called air core stators). Radial flux machines, for example, wrap the stator coils around a steel laminated core which helps pull the mag flux from the rotor to the coils, but they require the laminations because there's only one set of mags on one side of the coils and nothing immediately on the other side with an alternating pole to pull the flux through (opposites attract). This makes for a slightly less efficient and heavier generator (less energy dense), compounded by the cogging effect that the steel laminations in the stator create. Cogging is a pulsating resistance caused by the magnets wanting to lock in position over the coils as they pass by due to their attraction to the steel core. The effect is worse in some models than others, but is inherent in all radial flux generators. The cogging in my first wind turbine that I bought on Ebay nearly a decade ago was so bad that I couldn't turn the rotor by hand before the blades were installed without using a wrench - that's no good. Fine for a gas genny, but not a wind turbine. By moving the steel from the stator and sandwiching it between two steel mag plates in a thin pancake axial gen design instead, the cogging is eliminated and the rotors will turn so easily that a new born baby could do it with two fingers. Efficiency is among the best, can't get much better (cue Betz limit).
Sir is it true that the steel plate grabs the magnetic field lines produced by those magnets (which has the negative effect on EMF generation) ? If that's the case is there other material which can be used other than steel ? Thank you in advance.
Yes. The steel plates in an air core axial flux pmg serve the same purpose as the laminated steel core in most radial flux generators - to carry the flux. Combined with the alternated magnet poles on each rotor, the steel plates in an axial flux machine direct the flux into the stator to maximize efficiency, without causing the 'cogging effect' that's common with steel core stators in radial flux machines (cogging is a pulsating resistance caused by the magnets wanting to lock over the steel cores in the stator coils as the rotor turns, which requires more wind to overcome). The stronger the field is, the more power the stator will produce. You need to use a ferromagnetic material, basically any metal that contains iron. Steel is usually the most affordable and available material. Non-ferrous metals like aluminum or copper will not work for rotor plates as they don't have magnetic properties.
@@JamesBiggar Thanks sir ! We are currently working on rotor where magnets are embedded on the middle of steel plates. Your videos are very helpful to our project!
Hi. No, the rotor needs to be made with a ferrous metal (ie steel). Aluminum will not work. The rotor serves as a mounting surface but more importantly it captures the flux from the magnets and directs it into the stator appropriately. Aluminum will not do this, the generator would be very inefficient. You can try to add more magnets to compensate, but steel is more affordable than rare earth materials like neodymium magnets.
Im currently building a small scale version of an AFPMSG for a school project and was wondering if you have any experience testing round magnets vs rectangular? My current design is with 16 poles of round magnets but will be looking into design improvements after I finish this iteration.
In terms of flux, as long as we're talking about the same grade (ie: gauss) then the only difference is the shape. Ideally, your coils should be the same shape as your magnets, with the inside diameter of the coils being the same size as the magnets. This will ensure that the coils will be saturated with as much of the flux as possible. In terms of design, rectangular magnets win because their narrower shape allows for more magnets to be packed into a smaller area compared to round magnets. This increases a turbine's power density, and helps particularly with large turbines in keeping production costs low. Wedge magnets are the next best thing to rectangular magnets, for the same reason. In both cases, the coils should be roughly the same shape as the magnets, however wedge shaped coils will work fine for rectangular magnets too (that's what my coils are). Wedge magnets are pretty expensive though - twice the cost of rectangular - so hardly anyone uses them. You might also want to consider trying a Halbach array instead - this focuses the flux in the stator better than conventional pole configurations. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halbach_array
Nice work James. However I'm surprised you drilled the magnets and exposed the neodymium under the nickel plating instead of gluing. Hope you sealed them with lacquer or epoxy first, otherwise they will oxidize and corrode quite rapidly!
Epoxy is just to cover the bare metal, actually. It doesn't serve much good over time. Steel and neodymium have different thermal expansion rates, and epoxy castings/adhesives usually let go. I had this trouble with the very first turbine i built. That's why I and many others use the pre-drilled mag's now.
That motor is a scam. There is no such thing as 'free energy'. Don't waste your time and $. Gerard Morin is a con artist who preys on the ignorant. This magnet rotor is for low speed 3 kW generator (NOT 30kW). Up to 500 rpm and 96 nm of torque is required. Do not exceed 500 rpm and 3 kW of power or you will damage the stator.
Dear Mr. James ,I bought PDF from you previously, and now this type of magnet is not available in my area market , can I change your design size to 2 circle (3 cm. diameter x 0.4 cm. thick.) instate of your design size ?? if so , how the coil shape and size will be ??
Did you drill the magnets or purchased them with holes? I bought plans from your site, but it seems I can't find magnets with holes that size. Amazon have them but price is unreal. $15 for a piece! Maybe link where to buy them or you drilled them?
Before I go into detail, I'm curious where you bought the plans for this generator? I don't sell plans for this generator yet, only the 1 kW turbine and those plans call for solid mag's cast in polyester resin.
And rotor dia., the # of mag's, the stator wiring differs as well (this is a larger generator). Just want to make sure because I'm having problems with scammers in Asia stealing videos and spoofing site content - I have to file multiple copyright claims per week. Don't drill your magnets. Ever. If you manage to drill a hole without breaking them or burning up $100 worth of drill bits (neodymium is extremely brittle), it will certainly have a negative affect on the flux. The mags have to be drilled at the factory, prior to being magnetized. Unfortunately, with neodymium being a rare earth metal, it's going to be expensive no matter what. Just like anything useful that's rare. $15/ mag seems a bit high (especially if that's USD) but I wouldn't expect to pay much less after shipping for high grade mags (N50 or higher). I purchase mine through CMS Magnetics. I don't post links in the video description because they eventually expire when sellers update their inventory, and people just complain about it anyway. But for your reference, here's a link to a list of mags from the supplier that I purchase through: www.magnet4sale.com/neodymium-rare-earth-magnet-products/block-neodymium-magnets/neodymium-magnets-length-1/?sort=featured&page=3 I use the N52 grade for ~ $10 each. With shipping to Canada it works out to around $12-13 USD per magnet. You can opt for the cheaper N42 epoxy coated mags that are only $5-6 each because they're having a liquidation sale, but the flux (measured in gauss) is much weaker which will lead to a lower efficiency and power output, and you have to be mindful of how the holes are countersunk for screw heads. They come drilled, but only one side has a countersink for some. One listing has the countersink on the north side or south side only. Other listings let you choose what side you want the countersink on. Half of your magnets will need a countersink on the south pole face, and the other half on the north pole face. Some of the more expensive N50-52 grade mags will have countersinks on both faces. This is where most people get discouraged and think it's not worth their time. But they would be wrong in most cases. In case you're having doubts, check out the latest articles on my website detailing how to estimate annual kWh production from a wind turbine or solar array, and establish a cost benefit analysis for the investment to determine a payback period and ROI. To build the 1 kW turbine, a person is going to spend between $800-1000 on avg, depending on where they live and how resourceful they are. If most of the components can be found at a scrap yard (metal, bearings, wood, etc), then they just have to worry about the cost of the generator materials, ~$500. www.resystech.com/sizing-your-solar-pv-array-wind-turbine www.resystech.com/cost-benefit-analysis.html
@@JamesBiggar Thank you, James. My name is Pavel and I'm from Bulgaria. I work in the military, currently I'm in Afghanistan. So now I'm gathering parts and when I return I'll start the 800w turbine. I'm facing a lot of issues finding this parts. Already purchased 9 n52 magnets from aliexpress. But they don''t give more than 9 pieces per customer and currently the magnets are not in stock. I've got this plans and the eva laminator. I'm looking forward for Reaper and the simple laminator, cuz this looks very complicated. And what about epoxy sealing cells? Regards, keep the good work.
I second this James. Have a source link for these Magnets? (Edit: saw you answered the link below www.magnet4sale.com/n50-2x1x1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnet-w-8-countersink-on-both-sides/
Anything N42 grade or higher, measuring 2" long, 1" wide and 1/2" thick, with the n/s poles on the 2x1" faces (50x25x12mm in metric). www.magnet4sale.com/neodymium-rare-earth-magnet-products/block-neodymium-magnets/neodymium-magnets-length-1/?sort=featured&page=3
Look at the size of that drill press and compare it to the diameter of the rotor that I'm drilling - you don't think I would have used it if I could, especially after using it to drill the mag holes? You're talking to a journeyman, not a handyman. The not so "perfectly good" 2x4 is a waste piece from a former project that has one edge ripped off and is barely 16" long, one of literally hundreds of scrap pieces of wood that I have on hand as a carpenter. You know, to make use of in situations like this, instead of tossing them in the landfill like the avg Joe would do because they don't tend to think ahead when it comes to construction. Any more questions?
Get the plans for this project here: www.resystech.com/3-kw-wind-turbine.html
I liked the efforts he put into his work.
Check out my latest project: ruclips.net/video/yXQnydST9fw/видео.html
Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please let me know by hitting the like button. Don't forget to subscribe because new content is uploaded regularly. This channel is focused on promoting education and innovation in renewable energy technologies. If you're interested then you can help support and become a part of this endeavor by becoming a Patreon or RUclips channel member:
Check out the complete build video for the 3 kW Reaper turbine: ruclips.net/video/EPmW-BjCiWI/видео.html
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good
Love your videos James. Your build quality is top notch. Great work.
Truly amazing. I aspire to do something similar one day.
that's sick man!
This helped for my machine design project. Thank you soo much!
as always, your video edits cut to the chase and have my brain racing to keep up with your thought processes... slick!
Man, your production keeps getting better. So much content, but not so fast I couldn't follow. I'm gonna call you ...
THE GREEN MAKE IT EXTREME!
Nice work as always James
Thanks Tony!
this video pops up in my sugestions.
watched the video and thaught to myself:"this guy knows what he is doing, I like his approach. I should subscribe!"
Turns out I already am subscribing to this chanell.
well- if I could I would double subscribe.
Good job
Hi.Where to bui magnets,and how much does it cost?Tank you.
Great job 👍👌 Have you try to build a permanent magnet motor?
Great video.
A friend of mine is building a turbine I’m helping them we’ve made her own blades out of two by fours and we’re going to use the washing machine motor degenerate electricity to charge batteries to Compton state for not having enough solar panels if you’re interested you could check it out it’s down in my video list at this point hope to hear from you keep up the great work God bless Ken. I need your community,
Looks like it’s gonna come out really nice thanks for sharing what you’re doing I really hope to hear from you I’m a new supporter keep up the great work👍
👍👍👍👍👍
Magnet size?
Magnet buy link?
Another great build video!
Perfect job! I dream with a good wind power made by myself. I need time and money to do it. Congratulations.
You can make a small generator, with little neodimium magnets and less than 1kg of copper wires. That is a good way to do it without spend a lot of money.
James, when creating your magnet layout, did you consider the use of a Hallbach array. If so, why did you discard that option?
dear can you guide me about magnet which type of magnet you are using for turbine stator and silicon and coil guadge and turns and connections please
Glad to watch this video.
Thank you very much for this vedio, but have a question:
How can I calculate the number of turns, the wire clip and the number of coils, for a specific watt please ?
www.resystech.com/the-diy-wind-turbine-design-guide.html
resystech.com/howtobuilda1kwwindturbine.html
Really like the work James, have you considered using a carbon fibre non ferrous rotor plate. It may improve the performance of the magnets as it wont choke down the flux lines so much i'd expect. Just a thought??
Thanks! The rotor plates actually have to be steel, this helps direct the flux from mag to mag and plate to plate through the coils much better than if the plates were non ferrous. Others have tried non ferrous and composite plates, and I've considered it long ago myself, but thanks to Google I learned from their failures and not mine lol. They don't work. At least half of the flux is lost because the rotor doesn't have the proper magnetic properties to redirect it from flowing outside of the generator to inside it where it belongs. Folks like Hugh Piggott, Chris Olsen, and the crew at the Back shed have done quite a bit of research in this and published a few animations showing how the flux behaves in a dual rotor axial flux generator or motor. Google 'axial flux animation', you'll find quite a few. The mag poles are alternated on the plates, and the plates are skewed so that alternating poles (N-S) from each plate face each other. With a thin stator, this causes the flux to flow axially straight through the coils between the mag's, then the steel picks up the flux and carries it straight over to the adjacent magnet, and back through the coils to the opposite plate again, and so on. This is why an axial flux machine is so thin, because it needs a small air gap between the rotors to get the most out of the flux. This is also why radial flux stators have steel cores, to help move the flux through the relatively thicker coils and larger air gaps that can be found in radial gen's. If most radial generators didn't have steel cores for the coils, then it would be much harder if not impossible for the flux to travel all of the way through them - the field is only so big. This is also what makes the axial flux generator superior to the radial flux imo. Because the steel in a radial flux machine is in the stator and not the rotor, every time a magnet passes a coil it wants to naturally lock in position over it, causing a resistance called 'cogging'. In turn, more wind power is needed to overcome it, which inevitably affects production efficiency. Axial flux generators don't have this problem because the steel is in the rotor with the mag's, and the air core stators are much thinner (with wider coils so as not to compromise copper content) to allow the flux to naturally travel between the plates easily. The 'pancake' design also allows for stacking multiple stators and rotors together, as I'm doing. Something that can't be done near as cost effectively with radial gen's.
@@JamesBiggar Does any of that change if you are making a motor rather than a generator? Also, if weight were an issue, could you use smaller pieces of steel behind the magnets and make the main structural component of the plate out of carbon fibre (forged carbon maybe?)? Would that adequately direct the flux?
Top.
Perfeito seu trabalho
Parabéns 😎😎😎
Всегда приятно смотреть красивую грамотную работу👍
Once I seen the loader on mags, it looked awesome. I plan on using N53 mag's for next stator build. Because of a thicker type stator. I wonder when you have your turbine producing, are you going to test for thermal production? I have to get a thermal gun. Good job and thanks for sharing 😃
For sure buddy. Should be interesting to see how well it dissipates heat with the cooling ports. I have a thermal imaging camera, it's not the greatest but should do the job. Maybe next time I'll add NTC temp sensors in the stator casting for better accuracy and data logging. Thanks for the comment Billy!
how would you measure temperature? wouldn't the magnets induce a voltage in the probe?
Good question. Magnetic shielding. Omega makes shielded sensors (I use their 4 channel data logger). Whether they'll stand up to this application, I'm not sure. But only one way to find out. If they don't, I can always DIY. Magnetic shielding isn't very difficult to achieve.
I saw your previous comments about the iron being necessary to produce and control magnetic flux. Would laminating steel plates like in transformers have any benefit to said magnetic flux?
The steel rotor plates capture the flux from the mags and, combined with the alternating mag poles, redirects it into the stator so there's little to no loss of flux outside of the generator - it's concentrated where it needs to be. Steel laminations would do the same thing, but would be less stable - the rotor discs should be solid. Using steel rotor discs with an axial flux configuration eliminates the need for steel laminations in the stator core (hence why the stators in axial flux machines are typically called air core stators). Radial flux machines, for example, wrap the stator coils around a steel laminated core which helps pull the mag flux from the rotor to the coils, but they require the laminations because there's only one set of mags on one side of the coils and nothing immediately on the other side with an alternating pole to pull the flux through (opposites attract). This makes for a slightly less efficient and heavier generator (less energy dense), compounded by the cogging effect that the steel laminations in the stator create. Cogging is a pulsating resistance caused by the magnets wanting to lock in position over the coils as they pass by due to their attraction to the steel core. The effect is worse in some models than others, but is inherent in all radial flux generators. The cogging in my first wind turbine that I bought on Ebay nearly a decade ago was so bad that I couldn't turn the rotor by hand before the blades were installed without using a wrench - that's no good. Fine for a gas genny, but not a wind turbine. By moving the steel from the stator and sandwiching it between two steel mag plates in a thin pancake axial gen design instead, the cogging is eliminated and the rotors will turn so easily that a new born baby could do it with two fingers. Efficiency is among the best, can't get much better (cue Betz limit).
@@JamesBiggar thank you for the very informative reply. That made a lot of sense!
@james Biggar .
12 magnets in a plate but do we need 24 magnets in total? Can you answer me please
Sir is it true that the steel plate grabs the magnetic field lines produced by those magnets (which has the negative effect on EMF generation) ? If that's the case is there other material which can be used other than steel ? Thank you in advance.
Yes. The steel plates in an air core axial flux pmg serve the same purpose as the laminated steel core in most radial flux generators - to carry the flux. Combined with the alternated magnet poles on each rotor, the steel plates in an axial flux machine direct the flux into the stator to maximize efficiency, without causing the 'cogging effect' that's common with steel core stators in radial flux machines (cogging is a pulsating resistance caused by the magnets wanting to lock over the steel cores in the stator coils as the rotor turns, which requires more wind to overcome). The stronger the field is, the more power the stator will produce. You need to use a ferromagnetic material, basically any metal that contains iron. Steel is usually the most affordable and available material. Non-ferrous metals like aluminum or copper will not work for rotor plates as they don't have magnetic properties.
@@JamesBiggar Thanks sir ! We are currently working on rotor where magnets are embedded on the middle of steel plates. Your videos are very helpful to our project!
Hello James
Can we use Aluminum plate for rotor
I hop, then couple of magnet attraction higher than before
Hi. No, the rotor needs to be made with a ferrous metal (ie steel). Aluminum will not work. The rotor serves as a mounting surface but more importantly it captures the flux from the magnets and directs it into the stator appropriately. Aluminum will not do this, the generator would be very inefficient. You can try to add more magnets to compensate, but steel is more affordable than rare earth materials like neodymium magnets.
@@JamesBiggar Thank you very much James
I could understand clearly ✌️
And also I'm your fan😊
Im currently building a small scale version of an AFPMSG for a school project and was wondering if you have any experience testing round magnets vs rectangular? My current design is with 16 poles of round magnets but will be looking into design improvements after I finish this iteration.
In terms of flux, as long as we're talking about the same grade (ie: gauss) then the only difference is the shape. Ideally, your coils should be the same shape as your magnets, with the inside diameter of the coils being the same size as the magnets. This will ensure that the coils will be saturated with as much of the flux as possible. In terms of design, rectangular magnets win because their narrower shape allows for more magnets to be packed into a smaller area compared to round magnets. This increases a turbine's power density, and helps particularly with large turbines in keeping production costs low. Wedge magnets are the next best thing to rectangular magnets, for the same reason. In both cases, the coils should be roughly the same shape as the magnets, however wedge shaped coils will work fine for rectangular magnets too (that's what my coils are). Wedge magnets are pretty expensive though - twice the cost of rectangular - so hardly anyone uses them. You might also want to consider trying a Halbach array instead - this focuses the flux in the stator better than conventional pole configurations. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halbach_array
Nice work James.
However I'm surprised you drilled the magnets and exposed the neodymium under the nickel plating instead of gluing.
Hope you sealed them with lacquer or epoxy first, otherwise they will oxidize and corrode quite rapidly!
Lol, I didn't drill them. The magnets are pre-drilled by the manufacturer before they're magnetized ;)
www.magnet4sale.com/n50-2x1x1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnet-w-8-countersink-on-both-sides/
...you should be able to see them already drilled as I pull them off the block. I also glued them with epoxy...
Epoxy is just to cover the bare metal, actually. It doesn't serve much good over time. Steel and neodymium have different thermal expansion rates, and epoxy castings/adhesives usually let go. I had this trouble with the very first turbine i built. That's why I and many others use the pre-drilled mag's now.
Aha! Good news.... Thanks for the info!
Would love to see how you have your camera mounted.
shop.gopro.com/mounts/head-strap-plus-quickclip/ACHOM-001.html
I want to hook up Gerard morin hyperdrive motor to a generator of yours how much torq and rpm do it need for your generator
That motor is a scam. There is no such thing as 'free energy'. Don't waste your time and $. Gerard Morin is a con artist who preys on the ignorant. This magnet rotor is for low speed 3 kW generator (NOT 30kW). Up to 500 rpm and 96 nm of torque is required. Do not exceed 500 rpm and 3 kW of power or you will damage the stator.
Dear Mr. James ,I bought PDF from you previously, and now this type of magnet is not available in my area market , can I change your design size to 2 circle (3 cm. diameter x 0.4 cm. thick.) instate of your design size ?? if so , how the coil shape and size will be ??
Yes. The inside diameter of your coils will need to match the circumference of your magnets in shape and size.
Where does the magnet buy it?
I watched your entire series on this with interest, I just have one question - could you increase the power by using a Halbach array in the design?
Thanks! In short, yes. If you can source the magnets and justify the cost. More info: ruclips.net/video/i6gohEu0V3g/видео.html
Awsome thanks for sharing
Did you drill the magnets or purchased them with holes? I bought plans from your site, but it seems I can't find magnets with holes that size. Amazon have them but price is unreal. $15 for a piece! Maybe link where to buy them or you drilled them?
Before I go into detail, I'm curious where you bought the plans for this generator? I don't sell plans for this generator yet, only the 1 kW turbine and those plans call for solid mag's cast in polyester resin.
@@JamesBiggar From your site, and yes I am talking about 1kw turbine, but the rotors look the same. With the difference in the magnets.
And rotor dia., the # of mag's, the stator wiring differs as well (this is a larger generator). Just want to make sure because I'm having problems with scammers in Asia stealing videos and spoofing site content - I have to file multiple copyright claims per week.
Don't drill your magnets. Ever. If you manage to drill a hole without breaking them or burning up $100 worth of drill bits (neodymium is extremely brittle), it will certainly have a negative affect on the flux. The mags have to be drilled at the factory, prior to being magnetized. Unfortunately, with neodymium being a rare earth metal, it's going to be expensive no matter what. Just like anything useful that's rare. $15/ mag seems a bit high (especially if that's USD) but I wouldn't expect to pay much less after shipping for high grade mags (N50 or higher). I purchase mine through CMS Magnetics. I don't post links in the video description because they eventually expire when sellers update their inventory, and people just complain about it anyway. But for your reference, here's a link to a list of mags from the supplier that I purchase through:
www.magnet4sale.com/neodymium-rare-earth-magnet-products/block-neodymium-magnets/neodymium-magnets-length-1/?sort=featured&page=3
I use the N52 grade for ~ $10 each. With shipping to Canada it works out to around $12-13 USD per magnet. You can opt for the cheaper N42 epoxy coated mags that are only $5-6 each because they're having a liquidation sale, but the flux (measured in gauss) is much weaker which will lead to a lower efficiency and power output, and you have to be mindful of how the holes are countersunk for screw heads. They come drilled, but only one side has a countersink for some. One listing has the countersink on the north side or south side only. Other listings let you choose what side you want the countersink on. Half of your magnets will need a countersink on the south pole face, and the other half on the north pole face. Some of the more expensive N50-52 grade mags will have countersinks on both faces.
This is where most people get discouraged and think it's not worth their time. But they would be wrong in most cases. In case you're having doubts, check out the latest articles on my website detailing how to estimate annual kWh production from a wind turbine or solar array, and establish a cost benefit analysis for the investment to determine a payback period and ROI. To build the 1 kW turbine, a person is going to spend between $800-1000 on avg, depending on where they live and how resourceful they are. If most of the components can be found at a scrap yard (metal, bearings, wood, etc), then they just have to worry about the cost of the generator materials, ~$500.
www.resystech.com/sizing-your-solar-pv-array-wind-turbine
www.resystech.com/cost-benefit-analysis.html
@@JamesBiggar Thank you, James. My name is Pavel and I'm from Bulgaria. I work in the military, currently I'm in Afghanistan. So now I'm gathering parts and when I return I'll start the 800w turbine. I'm facing a lot of issues finding this parts. Already purchased 9 n52 magnets from aliexpress. But they don''t give more than 9 pieces per customer and currently the magnets are not in stock. I've got this plans and the eva laminator. I'm looking forward for Reaper and the simple laminator, cuz this looks very complicated. And what about epoxy sealing cells?
Regards, keep the good work.
cool music brooo!!!!! who sings?
what liquid is used to make the holes. thanks for your reply
It's just metal cutting oil. You might also see it sold as tapping fluid.
Is your magnet already have a whole at the center
Yes, you can order them manufactured that way.
@@JamesBiggar Where can you find these?
where did you buy your magnets from?
www.magnet4sale.com/n50-2x1x1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnet-w-8-countersink-on-both-sides/
tyvm :)
Da fällt sogar das MAgnetfeld einem auf die Füße. Toll.
Please How did you get those magnets? I need also
www.magnet4sale.com/n50-2x1x1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnet-w-10-countersink-on-both-sides/
How to star connection between 6coils please tell me
nice
Muito bem... Profissional!!
awesome
What gauge thickness is that rotor?
1/4" thick
Where to get the magnets?
I second this James. Have a source link for these Magnets? (Edit: saw you answered the link below www.magnet4sale.com/n50-2x1x1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnet-w-8-countersink-on-both-sides/
www.magnet4sale.com/n50-2x1x1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnet-w-8-countersink-on-both-sides/
reference for magnet?
Anything N42 grade or higher, measuring 2" long, 1" wide and 1/2" thick, with the n/s poles on the 2x1" faces (50x25x12mm in metric).
www.magnet4sale.com/neodymium-rare-earth-magnet-products/block-neodymium-magnets/neodymium-magnets-length-1/?sort=featured&page=3
Lástima que vivimos lejos uno del otro, porque me gustaría que me hubieras fabricado uno.
I tried many projects, only with Avasva I managed to do it myself.
Can I just buy one from you? Seriously.
Ad for please size tray
👍202Thanks for sharing
👍 would rather see this generator in the...
good..
Why did you drill into a perfectly good 2x4, when you had a drill press right there.
Look at the size of that drill press and compare it to the diameter of the rotor that I'm drilling - you don't think I would have used it if I could, especially after using it to drill the mag holes? You're talking to a journeyman, not a handyman. The not so "perfectly good" 2x4 is a waste piece from a former project that has one edge ripped off and is barely 16" long, one of literally hundreds of scrap pieces of wood that I have on hand as a carpenter. You know, to make use of in situations like this, instead of tossing them in the landfill like the avg Joe would do because they don't tend to think ahead when it comes to construction. Any more questions?
Dont drill your neodymium magnets, at least not without some kind of protection from corrosion.
👍
Сооl!!!
music?
I did something very similar, new plans from Avasva helped me with this.
Wtf is avasva
Deckelaufsatz von Drehstrommotor
لوحة فنية
You know people want to know about it possible fake o r true just win point or money but true is true and fake is fake
I'm here to help. What would you like to know?
what liquid is used to make the holes. thanks for your reply
You mean when drilling in the steel? I just used regular motor oil, anything that will keep the bit cool and sharp will work.