Blowing all that stuff with a 240VAC feed from the generator sounds more like a floating neutral and less like a ground-bonding issue. Are you mistaking the neutral for the ground? The bonding may have provided a partial/poor current return path through the ground back to the generator but that shouldn't have blown up anything if the neutral was properly connected from the generator to the panel. The neutral is required for the 120VAC legs of the 240VAC generator to work properly. Without it (if the neutral is "floating"), your 120VAC reference would have been from the earth ground to a leg instead of a neutral to a leg and the earth-ground-to-generator-neutral voltage offset will skew the voltage from one 120VAC leg to the other 120VAC leg. One leg would be under-volted, the other would be over-volted. And various system loads would cause it to jump around... a lot. A toaster oven on one leg, for example. So make sure the generator neutral is properly connected to the panel. It is not optional. -- Now multiple ground bonding... that's not good, but it shouldn't cause anything to blow up under normal operation unless there is a vast, vast difference in the ground potential across the property. The worst that should happen is that you would have a common-mode voltage differential between earth ground and the frames of various appliances. Not good in of itself, but not usually a high enough voltage to disrupt the electronics in the appliances. More of a shock hazard to someone touching the appliance. Normally this means the single ground-neutral bonding point should be near the home, near the master panel to a ground rod from the primary service panel for the home. That is, you want all the appliance frames to be referenced to the home's natural ground. There should be no current on the ground wiring at all anywhere. -- When ground and neutral are bonded together at the generator AND in the main breaker box for the home, the current-return path for any 120VAC circuits will run over both the neutral wire and the ground wire in the generator cable. This is bad (you aren't supposed to have current flow on the ground conductor), but usually doesn't hurt anything because the current recombines at the generator before going back to the stator. There ARE configurations where the current split can cause problems (based on where the bond is in the generator package), but probably not with your particular generator. However, if the neutral conductor has failed, all the current will return over the ground conductor. The ground conductor might not be the same gauge as the neutral conductor and can melt (in modern code the ground conductor must be the same gauge, but it wasn't always this way). Beyond that, there still may not be any apparent faults. That is, until you disconnect the bond. NOW if you disconnect the ground-neutral bond and the neutral conductor has failed, you have what is called a "floating neutral" situation. There is no low-impedance current return path for 120VAC circuits. Instead, the current will return through the earth... as in through the ground itself. The soil. The dirt. This is a high-impedance path and effectively allows the circuit to "sorta of" operate but also allows the "neutral" point that is supposed to be dead-center between the phases to float in one direction or the other, causing a voltage imbalance between the legs and "neutral". The voltage imbalance then blows up 120VAC appliances that can't handle 240VAC. In addition, the ground potential does not remain the same across distances and that will effect the neutral point as well. -- This brings up the age-old question... do you retain the bond at the generator or not? For a house, you NEVER want to unbond the ground-neutral bond in the main breaker box, so it comes down to whether you willfully retain the bond at the generator or not. Retaining the bond: In some respects appears to be "safer" because you have a solid neutral link even if the neutral fails. But this also creates ground-loops in the earth when the generator is located far away from the house's ground rod (albeit at very low currents). So it is not really desirable to do this in some circumstances, but might be desirable to do this in other circumstances. Removing the bond: Means that your neutral conductor had better be solid. If it is solid this is the safest configuration for a house connection because there won't be any ground loops going over the ground wire or through the soil. But in a free-standing (camping) situation, it is often less safe because the generator frame won't be referenced to the neutral. One thing you should do is not locate the generator too far away from the house's own ground rod. Far enough away so exhaust isn't an issue for people inside the house, but not so far away that there might be a major potential difference in the earth ground between the two points. -Matt
Get a Chargeverter. Charge the batteries at the generator's max continuous run capacity, then shut it down. That's the most efficient way. If you must use a small generator to run your house, it should be an inverter generator.
Brother I would spend the 400 and get a chargeverter when u run that Gen's dirty power to be on the safe side. We been off grid for 11 years. This is very good information for others to follow keep it up brother
I far prefer the chargeverter style mechanism for backup power too. Ggenerators are nortoriously bad at responding to major load changes and hybrid inverters typically use the generator input as the master AC when it is active while its internal inverter is just used to charge the DC battery system. With the chargeverter (with a battery charger in general), the generator's output is being converted to DC and only charging the battery while the entire rest of the system runs off the DC. It is best to charge at roughly 50% the generator's max-rated continuous power. Also please read my main posting.... make sure you don't have a floating neutral because that is far more likely to be the actual issue than the ground bonding. -Matt
Im with some of the other comments, incorrect bonding is a safety issue that will allow voltage on the bare ground wire. This won't cause equipment to malfunction. Now that i typed that, you should double/triple check your ground points. While bonding should only be in the main panel, every panel needs to be grounded.
I use a Chargeverter and I never use the charging capabilities of my inverter charger. This avoids powering the house loads by the generator while charging the batteries. To my way of thinking, this solves some problems with this off grid solar grounding question. I've run my off grid solar system for 6 years with no grounding on the system at all. If I was on grid I would use the typical grounding system required with, as you say, only one bonding point in the system. Thanks for the video.
You have a bad neutral on a 240 circuit causing a back feed of 240 on a 120 circuit. Check ALL YOUR NEUTRALS. Or you crossed your phasing somewhere. Somehow you are backfeeding the other phase into a neutral.
That's not the root problem. If that were the only problem you would not see the destruction you experienced. The double-bonding will only cause current sharing between neutral and ground which is a potential safety issue, but otherwise 100% functionally fine. I suspect you have a disconnected neutral and the generator bond was acting to partially mitigate that problem, obviously insufficiently. The disconnected neutral means it does not stay precisely centered between the 240v hot legs or in other words, unbalanced legs. One leg may be 200v and the other leg 40v with respect to neutral. This will cause all the destruction you described. If you have a large 240v load it can mask the problem by minimizing the imbalance, but that doesn't mean the problem is gone.
So sorry for your expensive lesson, and thank you so much for sharing. The complexity of grounding and bonding---especially for lightning protection---is something that is still fiercely debated in off-grid electrical systems. The old Home Power magazine archive (free with username and password) has a great regular column called Code Corner which has helped me sort through the 'noise.' BTW, my old genset has only the earth symbol (no placard) as shown on your genset at the ground/ earth lug. The user manual states in the section "Electrical Precautions: ...2. The Generator must be properly earth-grounded by a licensed electrician...". That's a pretty straight forward statement. However, there's this statement in the section "GROUNDING THE GENERATOR 1. NOTE: ...(Generators without a permanent installation may not need to be grounded, check local codes and ordinances.)... 2. Connect a #6 AWG grounding wire (not included) from the Grounding Point on the front panel to a grounding rod (not included) that has been driven at least 24 inches deep into the earth..." That Note creates ambiguity even in unbonded gensets. As far as I know, you can't have too many earth grounds in a system as long as they are upstream from the neutral bonding 'jumper'. Unless I'm hooking up my genst ground conductor to my house right at the service entrance from the grid (where an earth-ground rod is located), I wouldn't hesitate to run my ground wire from the earth-ground lug on the genset to a new earth-ground rod right next to the genset. I might be tempted to plug a power tool into one of the sockets if I'm working near the genset for any random reason.
I'll agree to the fact that there should be only one bond on the system. However, I believe that bond should be in your inverter as it's your main power source. Bonding it at the house will take everything upstream, including the second house, have to feed the ground/neutral back to the current house for bonding. NEC states it should be at the first disconnect past the power source. Aka at or just beyond the inverter.
I think he's right. While you havent had an issue yet, double, triple, or even a hundred bonds will not cause things to blow. This is the classic floating neutral issue that kills 120v items. Sounds like you're neutral wire is loose somewhere between the gen and the house. To test for this turn off all your breakers. Then just turn on a few outlet circuits that are all on the same 120v leg and load it up with space heaters, heat gun, hair dryers and whatever you got. Have someone monitor the voltage while you wiggle the neutral connections at the gen, any plugs, at the panel and whatever else its connected. If you see the voltage drop that means that missing voltage has shifted over to the other leg. That's what kills things. 240 is split in half by the neutral. If one leg is pulled down to say 50 then you've got 190 on the other and things pop @@hisnaturefarm
I have a Duramax generator that is not bonded. I connected the generator to the house but shut my solar off when running and had no issues I also have an ups with pure sine wave to my sensitive electronics. If I have to use my generator for power tools I made a bonding plug the the neutral and ground are temporary bonded then when done I remove bonding plug.
Your bonding info is correct however the issue you have with generator does not seem like a bonding issue. The ground bolt on the generator is used to ground the chassis to earth ground and since you did not its not grounded and being on a wooded pallet it’s isolated. By removing the ground connection within the generator wiring you are risking your safety. The ground is a non current carrying conductor under normal conditions and is used to ground equipment in case of short.
@ Yes with 4 wire cable / connector (hot,hot,neutral and ground) assuming the ground is connected in the cable your grounding will be done at your main panel through the cable if you don’t use the ground lug on the generator. Since you removed the jumper that grounds the chassis it will be ungrounded. get an ohm meter and check continuity from ground on cable and generator chassis to verify When you are checking for grounding with ohm meter check reference from generator stator and generator frame. The stator and engine are usually mounted on rubber shocks for vibration which will also make them electrically isolated. The jumper you removed may have been for grounding due to them being isolated.
First rule of electrical, if you don't know what you're doing then STOP. Second rule, get an electrician, not just because you don't know what you are doing but also for you and your families safety. Do it wrong and you're hurt or dead!
You have a bad NEUTRAL connection someware, having bad neutral means you dont have 120 + 120 Volt. Having lots of load on one Line will result having 60 + 180 Volt or worst! When your inverter switch to inverter it puts all the loads on the inverter and charge from it! Unbonding the ground on the generaton only prevent sharing the Neutral current with the generator ground !
🤔Yikes....Expensive lesson here. Probably could have saved a lot of time and money if you'd at least consulted an experienced licensed electrician. You find a good one, he's (she's) worth his weight in gold! Hopefully you're doing that for the rest of this build-out.
A workaround for this is to run only 3 wires from the generator, if there's no ground connection the bond doesn't matter. The issue with double bonded is that neutral power current can travel back on the ground which is not designed to carry power unless there's a fault to trip a breaker. It would immediately trip a generator with a GFCI (ground fault) plug but older ones don't care. Unfortunately I think you need to keep troubleshooting why this happened. I'd start with drawing out how you have it connected and contacting support again for your EG4. If you do test, just use the generator and solar system together without the houses connected and monitor voltages on all parts of the system. Maybe use some heaters and lights to add load. Is your solar ramping up voltage because it's meant to be grid tied and push power on the grid? Is the harmonic distortion of a non-inverter generator making the system go haywire? Best of luck, I really hope you don't ruin anymore things. Sounds like it's already been very expensive :(
From what I understand, if your house has an original power source that is the only place where the bonding at the panel happens, and your generator should be floating - if the neutral wires are always connected from your generator - to your house - to your original/previous power source. I believe that is what your inverter does; it acts as a switch for the generator, but the neutral wires are always connected to the house - to the main power in and bonded ground. Which, if the generator is bonded, can cause your ground to feedback electricity from the neutral without popping breakers. I think this little video from Home Battery Bank will help clarify: ruclips.net/video/viNZV0lyRVQ/видео.html
It was not the bonding. That generator has a Floating ground. So it will supply 120v/2 which is 60v to your Neutral.. So Next time hire an Electrician. As they make devices that will switch the Neutral Bond automatically for you. As these will include an Arch-fault and GFCI protection. And I ran across so many sub panels where they bonded the Neutral it's not even funny. As the reason you only bond the main Panel. Is any short to ground always goes back to the source. The source being the Generator in your case. And now the line side is out of phase but will not trip anything when under load. As it can not detect the phase difference imbalance. But a GFCI would have. And I'm not talking about one of those cheap Chinese knock offs. Buy one from an Electrical supply dealer..
@@sh839c Like hell it is. I worked for KBR.. Get caught not bonding them generators right get ship back to the States..As the auto switching Breaker just for that problem. Just lookup Neutral-Ground Bonding for Off-Grid and Mobile Systems explained Clever solar power. I been an electrician for 3 decades. I seen it all. So no BS from me..
Blowing all that stuff with a 240VAC feed from the generator sounds more like a floating neutral and less like a ground-bonding issue. Are you mistaking the neutral for the ground? The bonding may have provided a partial/poor current return path through the ground back to the generator but that shouldn't have blown up anything if the neutral was properly connected from the generator to the panel.
The neutral is required for the 120VAC legs of the 240VAC generator to work properly. Without it (if the neutral is "floating"), your 120VAC reference would have been from the earth ground to a leg instead of a neutral to a leg and the earth-ground-to-generator-neutral voltage offset will skew the voltage from one 120VAC leg to the other 120VAC leg. One leg would be under-volted, the other would be over-volted. And various system loads would cause it to jump around... a lot. A toaster oven on one leg, for example.
So make sure the generator neutral is properly connected to the panel. It is not optional.
--
Now multiple ground bonding... that's not good, but it shouldn't cause anything to blow up under normal operation unless there is a vast, vast difference in the ground potential across the property. The worst that should happen is that you would have a common-mode voltage differential between earth ground and the frames of various appliances. Not good in of itself, but not usually a high enough voltage to disrupt the electronics in the appliances. More of a shock hazard to someone touching the appliance.
Normally this means the single ground-neutral bonding point should be near the home, near the master panel to a ground rod from the primary service panel for the home. That is, you want all the appliance frames to be referenced to the home's natural ground. There should be no current on the ground wiring at all anywhere.
--
When ground and neutral are bonded together at the generator AND in the main breaker box for the home, the current-return path for any 120VAC circuits will run over both the neutral wire and the ground wire in the generator cable. This is bad (you aren't supposed to have current flow on the ground conductor), but usually doesn't hurt anything because the current recombines at the generator before going back to the stator. There ARE configurations where the current split can cause problems (based on where the bond is in the generator package), but probably not with your particular generator.
However, if the neutral conductor has failed, all the current will return over the ground conductor. The ground conductor might not be the same gauge as the neutral conductor and can melt (in modern code the ground conductor must be the same gauge, but it wasn't always this way). Beyond that, there still may not be any apparent faults. That is, until you disconnect the bond.
NOW if you disconnect the ground-neutral bond and the neutral conductor has failed, you have what is called a "floating neutral" situation. There is no low-impedance current return path for 120VAC circuits. Instead, the current will return through the earth... as in through the ground itself. The soil. The dirt. This is a high-impedance path and effectively allows the circuit to "sorta of" operate but also allows the "neutral" point that is supposed to be dead-center between the phases to float in one direction or the other, causing a voltage imbalance between the legs and "neutral".
The voltage imbalance then blows up 120VAC appliances that can't handle 240VAC.
In addition, the ground potential does not remain the same across distances and that will effect the neutral point as well.
--
This brings up the age-old question... do you retain the bond at the generator or not? For a house, you NEVER want to unbond the ground-neutral bond in the main breaker box, so it comes down to whether you willfully retain the bond at the generator or not.
Retaining the bond: In some respects appears to be "safer" because you have a solid neutral link even if the neutral fails. But this also creates ground-loops in the earth when the generator is located far away from the house's ground rod (albeit at very low currents). So it is not really desirable to do this in some circumstances, but might be desirable to do this in other circumstances.
Removing the bond: Means that your neutral conductor had better be solid. If it is solid this is the safest configuration for a house connection because there won't be any ground loops going over the ground wire or through the soil. But in a free-standing (camping) situation, it is often less safe because the generator frame won't be referenced to the neutral.
One thing you should do is not locate the generator too far away from the house's own ground rod. Far enough away so exhaust isn't an issue for people inside the house, but not so far away that there might be a major potential difference in the earth ground between the two points.
-Matt
Get a Chargeverter. Charge the batteries at the generator's max continuous run capacity, then shut it down. That's the most efficient way. If you must use a small generator to run your house, it should be an inverter generator.
Brother I would spend the 400 and get a chargeverter when u run that Gen's dirty power to be on the safe side. We been off grid for 11 years. This is very good information for others to follow keep it up brother
I did not know about this, thanks!
I far prefer the chargeverter style mechanism for backup power too. Ggenerators are nortoriously bad at responding to major load changes and hybrid inverters typically use the generator input as the master AC when it is active while its internal inverter is just used to charge the DC battery system.
With the chargeverter (with a battery charger in general), the generator's output is being converted to DC and only charging the battery while the entire rest of the system runs off the DC.
It is best to charge at roughly 50% the generator's max-rated continuous power. Also please read my main posting.... make sure you don't have a floating neutral because that is far more likely to be the actual issue than the ground bonding.
-Matt
Im with some of the other comments, incorrect bonding is a safety issue that will allow voltage on the bare ground wire. This won't cause equipment to malfunction.
Now that i typed that, you should double/triple check your ground points. While bonding should only be in the main panel, every panel needs to be grounded.
I use a Chargeverter and I never use the charging capabilities of my inverter charger. This avoids powering the house loads by the generator while charging the batteries. To my way of thinking, this solves some problems with this off grid solar grounding question. I've run my off grid solar system for 6 years with no grounding on the system at all. If I was on grid I would use the typical grounding system required with, as you say, only one bonding point in the system. Thanks for the video.
Best to also get a pure sine wave/inverter generator. Poor electricity quality can easily damage sensitive modern electronics.
You have a bad neutral on a 240 circuit causing a back feed of 240 on a 120 circuit. Check ALL YOUR NEUTRALS. Or you crossed your phasing somewhere. Somehow you are backfeeding the other phase into a neutral.
That's not the root problem. If that were the only problem you would not see the destruction you experienced. The double-bonding will only cause current sharing between neutral and ground which is a potential safety issue, but otherwise 100% functionally fine.
I suspect you have a disconnected neutral and the generator bond was acting to partially mitigate that problem, obviously insufficiently. The disconnected neutral means it does not stay precisely centered between the 240v hot legs or in other words, unbalanced legs. One leg may be 200v and the other leg 40v with respect to neutral. This will cause all the destruction you described. If you have a large 240v load it can mask the problem by minimizing the imbalance, but that doesn't mean the problem is gone.
So sorry for your expensive lesson, and thank you so much for sharing. The complexity of grounding and bonding---especially for lightning protection---is something that is still fiercely debated in off-grid electrical systems. The old Home Power magazine archive (free with username and password) has a great regular column called Code Corner which has helped me sort through the 'noise.'
BTW, my old genset has only the earth symbol (no placard) as shown on your genset at the ground/ earth lug. The user manual states in the section "Electrical Precautions: ...2. The Generator must be properly earth-grounded by a licensed electrician...". That's a pretty straight forward statement. However, there's this statement in the section "GROUNDING THE GENERATOR 1. NOTE: ...(Generators without a permanent installation may not need to be grounded, check local codes and ordinances.)... 2. Connect a #6 AWG grounding wire (not included) from the Grounding Point on the front panel to a grounding rod (not included) that has been driven at least 24 inches deep into the earth..."
That Note creates ambiguity even in unbonded gensets. As far as I know, you can't have too many earth grounds in a system as long as they are upstream from the neutral bonding 'jumper'. Unless I'm hooking up my genst ground conductor to my house right at the service entrance from the grid (where an earth-ground rod is located), I wouldn't hesitate to run my ground wire from the earth-ground lug on the genset to a new earth-ground rod right next to the genset. I might be tempted to plug a power tool into one of the sockets if I'm working near the genset for any random reason.
First, need an inverter generator, then a EG4 charge vertex and charge batteries, then use your inverter to power your house!
LOL.. Floating neutral..
I'll agree to the fact that there should be only one bond on the system. However, I believe that bond should be in your inverter as it's your main power source. Bonding it at the house will take everything upstream, including the second house, have to feed the ground/neutral back to the current house for bonding. NEC states it should be at the first disconnect past the power source. Aka at or just beyond the inverter.
Sorry bud, that ain't it. Keep looking.
Sure was. No issues since.
I think he's right. While you havent had an issue yet, double, triple, or even a hundred bonds will not cause things to blow. This is the classic floating neutral issue that kills 120v items. Sounds like you're neutral wire is loose somewhere between the gen and the house. To test for this turn off all your breakers. Then just turn on a few outlet circuits that are all on the same 120v leg and load it up with space heaters, heat gun, hair dryers and whatever you got. Have someone monitor the voltage while you wiggle the neutral connections at the gen, any plugs, at the panel and whatever else its connected. If you see the voltage drop that means that missing voltage has shifted over to the other leg. That's what kills things. 240 is split in half by the neutral. If one leg is pulled down to say 50 then you've got 190 on the other and things pop @@hisnaturefarm
Thanks a million, i could just imagine the money in going to save in repairs, i have a 20 kw solar system and im adding a 10 kw generator to my system
I hope it helps you! This is how we all learn together!
I have a Duramax generator that is not bonded. I connected the generator to the house but shut my solar off when running and had no issues I also have an ups with pure sine wave to my sensitive electronics. If I have to use my generator for power tools I made a bonding plug the the neutral and ground are temporary bonded then when done I remove bonding plug.
Yeah you need a clean power source for your electronics, like from an inverter generator, or using the chargeverter with the cheap dirty generator
Yes, I had no idea a chargeverter even existed until I posted this!
Appreciate your input! Yea, I thought about that location as well. Think it is ok for now. Jim
Your bonding info is correct however the issue you have with generator does not seem like a bonding issue. The ground bolt on the generator is used to ground the chassis to earth ground and since you did not its not grounded and being on a wooded pallet it’s isolated. By removing the ground connection within the generator wiring you are risking your safety. The ground is a non current carrying conductor under normal conditions and is used to ground equipment in case of short.
So if I am correct the 50a is a 4 wire and is grounded into the inverter.
@ Yes with 4 wire cable / connector (hot,hot,neutral and ground) assuming the ground is connected in the cable your grounding will be done at your main panel through the cable if you don’t use the ground lug on the generator. Since you removed the jumper that grounds the chassis it will be ungrounded. get an ohm meter and check continuity from ground on cable and generator chassis to verify
When you are checking for grounding with ohm meter check reference from generator stator and generator frame. The stator and engine are usually mounted on rubber shocks for vibration which will also make them electrically isolated. The jumper you removed may have been for grounding due to them being isolated.
The 2nd ground boand can cause feed back and the is bad if you unhooked all but the den. you be ok take all green screws out but the 1st panel only
Learning something today ❤
First rule of electrical, if you don't know what you're doing then STOP. Second rule, get an electrician, not just because you don't know what you are doing but also for you and your families safety. Do it wrong and you're hurt or dead!
And make sure the electrician is competent in these more complex scenarios, many 'every day' electricians never touch anything like this setup.
I agree except I am not a total amateur, well I could see how you might think that. 😭
You have a bad NEUTRAL connection someware, having bad neutral means you dont have 120 + 120 Volt. Having lots of load on one Line will result having 60 + 180 Volt or worst!
When your inverter switch to inverter it puts all the loads on the inverter and charge from it! Unbonding the ground on the generaton only prevent sharing the Neutral current with the generator ground !
🤔Yikes....Expensive lesson here. Probably could have saved a lot of time and money if you'd at least consulted an experienced licensed electrician. You find a good one, he's (she's) worth his weight in gold! Hopefully you're doing that for the rest of this build-out.
I use a chargeverter to charge battery stay away from it will work with your EG4
Thanks for the tip, I have not looked into that one yet.
Boanding should be in the 1st panel and not it all others are sub panels
A workaround for this is to run only 3 wires from the generator, if there's no ground connection the bond doesn't matter.
The issue with double bonded is that neutral power current can travel back on the ground which is not designed to carry power unless there's a fault to trip a breaker. It would immediately trip a generator with a GFCI (ground fault) plug but older ones don't care.
Unfortunately I think you need to keep troubleshooting why this happened. I'd start with drawing out how you have it connected and contacting support again for your EG4. If you do test, just use the generator and solar system together without the houses connected and monitor voltages on all parts of the system. Maybe use some heaters and lights to add load.
Is your solar ramping up voltage because it's meant to be grid tied and push power on the grid?
Is the harmonic distortion of a non-inverter generator making the system go haywire?
Best of luck, I really hope you don't ruin anymore things. Sounds like it's already been very expensive :(
From what I understand, if your house has an original power source that is the only place where the bonding at the panel happens, and your generator should be floating - if the neutral wires are always connected from your generator - to your house - to your original/previous power source. I believe that is what your inverter does; it acts as a switch for the generator, but the neutral wires are always connected to the house - to the main power in and bonded ground. Which, if the generator is bonded, can cause your ground to feedback electricity from the neutral without popping breakers. I think this little video from Home Battery Bank will help clarify: ruclips.net/video/viNZV0lyRVQ/видео.html
Thanks. Good info. Just checked my Honda 2200, and it is not bonded.
It was not the bonding. That generator has a Floating ground. So it will supply 120v/2 which is 60v to your Neutral.. So Next time hire an Electrician. As they make devices that will switch the Neutral Bond automatically for you. As these will include an Arch-fault and GFCI protection.
And I ran across so many sub panels where they bonded the Neutral it's not even funny. As the reason you only bond the main Panel. Is any short to ground always goes back to the source. The source being the Generator in your case. And now the line side is out of phase but will not trip anything when under load. As it can not detect the phase difference imbalance. But a GFCI would have. And I'm not talking about one of those cheap Chinese knock offs. Buy one from an Electrical supply dealer..
Unbonded both of my portable generators as per electricians advice and the military generator manuals. Works well . 12:31
@@sh839c Like hell it is. I worked for KBR.. Get caught not bonding them generators right get ship back to the States..As the auto switching Breaker just for that problem.
Just lookup Neutral-Ground Bonding for Off-Grid and Mobile Systems explained Clever solar power.
I been an electrician for 3 decades. I seen it all. So no BS from me..