Always always always make your whip as light as possible when you're welding vertical or overhead. Let some of whip rest on your shoulder or hung over something overhead. I will sometimes put a clamp above my head to drape my whip over if there's nothing to hang it on. It will help a lot especially if you're welding overhead and vertical all day.
Never seen that method of joining wire together. We used the twist lock connectors and the other style can't remember what they are called. When the ends get all buggered up out come the vise grips. We used to build large marine floats out of 6 foot diameter steel pipe. Welding leads dragged over. We used whips the main leads were 3/O and 4/O. It wasn't new wire we got it from auction from some industrial shop that went out of business. I don't miss dragging leeds around I was only 14 years old, that was 31 years ago.
Welding leads,are sized & gauged the same as electrical wire; the more amperage you are using the bigger the cable you need. As far as connecting leads together,you can use any splicing lugs common to the electrical trade; as far as the last method you used " welding" your leads together ? I would hesitate to use that method,especially on an engine driven generator type rig,such as your Lincoln 300 or any potable machine,because when you stick the energized leads together like you did,you are actually causing a direct short in the electrical circuit. Yes it will melt the copper together,but if you don't break the circuit real fast,you can burn the carbon brushes out of the machine,or literally melt the soldered connections out of the commutator of the generator/ welding machine; in an A/C machine you could trip a breaker in your box. Other than that,it is a good video,just use the same type of lugs electricians use for large cables & can be found in electrical supply comanies,companies, most electrical contractors can sell parts to the public & most big box hardware stores,like Home depot & Lowes & Ace hardware carry some electrical connectors. Just follow the same safety rules as you would with high amperage electrical circuits,that's basically how arc welding works. Large amperage,bigger wire,less amperage smaller wire, unless you go over 200ft,& then you get amperage drop in long runs of cable / wire; the voltage will drop in D.C.( direct current) machines but in A.C. ( alternating current) it doesn't drop as much in long cable runs,& the amperage doesn't drop as much either.
I have repeatedly seen sa200s hooked to frozen water lines to thaw them. This little hit is nothing for a generator machine. Ever heard of a load bank?
AMEN at 8:10 ! Comfort and good visibility make great welds . Sadly I've been thinking about trying a magnifying lens in the welding helmet ..... Age is creeping up and probably need to go see the Doc about glasses . That's a pretty cool trick welding the cables together !
Finally someone that will explain welding leads. I’ve only seen videos explaining what lead they use not why they use it. Thanks for the insight nice video
Running a 210amp system right now and running 2/0 because it's what I was told to use back when I worked the oil fields. A 100 foot reach is good for most of my jobs and I'm looking to start is a small mobile welding business for apartment and condo complexes and gated communities.
I got my welder on a boat trailer with a tool box to pull around the farm with 4 wheeler to weld up continuous fence with and sucker rodes. I think the ground is 5 feet and the stinger is on a 20 foot lead
Kalas brand wire is the best I’ve come across. I’m bias as anything cause I worked for them. But I’ve never burned it up and I’ve drug it thousands of feet
Hey “A” man, yet again solid advice. Some of the leads I have are close to 35yrs old. I always roll them the same way, when I store them in the box. Hood down lights on.
I saw that on ig about 7 years ago. I had to flick em, long arc a hot minute, and then jam em up. You can use copper pipe if you don't have those sleeves too
I used a tweco mig nozzle to splice my 1/0 lead, stuck the lead in there, smashed the nozzle down to crimp it, and center punched the nozzle to really lock it in there.
You could also easily braise them together with a torch and a piece of rod if you really wanted to get that hard-core. Personally I’ve always just put mine in a sleeve and crimped with a hydraulic crimper
Would you be willing to do a video for people just starting out I’m new to welding since I was introduced to it in my school since it’s a vocational HS I’ve only done stick using 7024 or 7013 I believe and I’m having trouble keeping it straight and I’m learning to watch the pool but I’m usually slow or to fast just thought I’d ask you bc your a bit more informative then a lot of other channels with this kind of content
So you said that size of lead is determined by length which is true but you also said that you figured your on 250 feet, but you cut your in half which is 125 feet which would make quite a bit a difference on amp draw especially on stinger lead no so much on ground lead. Being a electrician it kind of caught my attention. With that being said I have learned quite by watching your videos and hope to put them to use on my own fence building, plus you live right here in good ole Oklahoma.
I never thought about that but now I’m wondering about splicing the cable and soldiering it with dialectric grease and heat tube like you would regular wiring it’ll be good to go on everything including salt water if you do it right and really it wouldn’t be too ridged if you kept it tight and it’ll be as good as if it were never cut
Most welders do tell you, in the manual (you know, the paper thing that ignorant people who think they know more than they actually do, throw away) have a chart that tells you which cable size you need for the maximum amps your machine has, vs the length of the lead. And as Ross has pointed out, the lead length is the length of the lead from welder to torch or work clamp, times two. In other words, he total length of wire. By the way, when he says to hammer the Surface Pro,ice connector, I hope he doesn’t mean to just use a hammer. That doesn’t work properly unless you have a cast connector with two stubs sticking inside that the hammer will squash against the wire, gripping it. Otherwise, with a smooth connector, you’re just hammering the connector flat, and many of the wires will be loose inside-very bad. You need a crimp block that the connector slips into. You then hammer that, and it indents the connector.
Hello. I'm New to your channel. love all of your material. I came across one your videos talking about a podcast do you guys still do that and if so what's the name of it
Wow! I just did the math, for 125 ft. Leads that's half the cost of the machine. I will stick with my way Oversized leads and just not weld in humid/wet locations and just put a whip on me so when it's wrapped around me and it starts raining. I won't be a fish out of water flopping around.
Austin, I ordered the inexpensive $80 - --110 volt HONE stick welder, which is rated at around 120 amps max. It comes with copper coated aluminum cables that are about 8 foot long. My question is, do you think it there would be a significant improvement on the welders performance, if I were to spend $40 and purchase pure copper 4 gauge cable that is only 5 foot leads ?
At 8 feet long probably not that much of a difference. I would invest in longer leads if you choose to buy 100% copper leads. it will make a lot more difference in your welding then having Super Duper leads that are really short. Try to get yourself some number two or number one leads that are at least 50 feet long that will serve you well for a long time and you’ll be able to move them from machine to machine. Having enough that you can move around to work piece is key.
Just to confirm, when sizing your welding leads, you add the length of both your ground and your electrode lead to size your cable? I was always under the assumption that only one cable was measured for length. I have been way under sizing my cable.
Like Austin said, what kind of welding are you doing ? Rated output of machine covers all situations. Guy I bought my SA200 from said in 30 years of pipeline welding, he never took it out of 2nd gear.. 120 amps works fine for 5/32" rods, so no reason to run a heavier lead than 1/0 for my purposes.
Whats your opinion on the Hobart Handler 100? I just got one and I like it for small projects and stuff. Got some good hobart .030 wire and it does pretty dang good for how small it is. I opted for it over the Harbor freight 125 flux core just because I've heard in general Hobart is a better welding brand and can get parts easier if needed.
@@cashen7384 my pleasure ...so much to learn in welding ...every procedure calls for a different approach . But Hobart is reputable ! That's a good first machine ...and I can tell you the Chicago electric harbor freight isn't good . If you're looking for a Mts under 1k check out everlast welders but know if u want the best miller or fronius . They are the best for a reason and preform above in my experience
I got a Hobart Handler works great and I have it wired in for 240 volts. I got a 125 flux core from Horrible freight as well and never had a problem welding thin steel.
Great tip on welding welding leads. Just so I’m clear on this, your connected to the DC + on the leads to be welded? The orange lead is connected to the positive side of the machine and the black lead is connected to your stinger? Thanks 🙏🏻
Instead of trying to weld them together why not just solder then ? Would be a much more electrically sound joint use flux to make sure the joint is peniteated with solder and just keep pushing it in untill it's saturated
Surround yourself with people that share great information and you will grow! Solid guy you are Austin! Great video! Thanks!
Always always always make your whip as light as possible when you're welding vertical or overhead. Let some of whip rest on your shoulder or hung over something overhead. I will sometimes put a clamp above my head to drape my whip over if there's nothing to hang it on. It will help a lot especially if you're welding overhead and vertical all day.
Never seen that method of joining wire together. We used the twist lock connectors and the other style can't remember what they are called. When the ends get all buggered up out come the vise grips. We used to build large marine floats out of 6 foot diameter steel pipe. Welding leads dragged over. We used whips the main leads were 3/O and 4/O. It wasn't new wire we got it from auction from some industrial shop that went out of business. I don't miss dragging leeds around I was only 14 years old, that was 31 years ago.
I've always used a twist lock every 50' so you can make it the right length for the circuit every time.
Welding leads,are sized & gauged the same as electrical wire; the more amperage you are using the bigger the cable you need. As far as connecting leads together,you can use any splicing lugs common to the electrical trade; as far as the last method you used " welding" your leads together ? I would hesitate to use that method,especially on an engine driven generator type rig,such as your Lincoln 300 or any potable machine,because when you stick the energized leads together like you did,you are actually causing a direct short in the electrical circuit. Yes it will melt the copper together,but if you don't break the circuit real fast,you can burn the carbon brushes out of the machine,or literally melt the soldered connections out of the commutator of the generator/ welding machine; in an A/C machine you could trip a breaker in your box. Other than that,it is a good video,just use the same type of lugs electricians use for large cables & can be found in electrical supply comanies,companies, most electrical contractors can sell parts to the public & most big box hardware stores,like Home depot & Lowes & Ace hardware carry some electrical connectors. Just follow the same safety rules as you would with high amperage electrical circuits,that's basically how arc welding works. Large amperage,bigger wire,less amperage smaller wire, unless you go over 200ft,& then you get amperage drop in long runs of cable / wire; the voltage will drop in D.C.( direct current) machines but in A.C. ( alternating current) it doesn't drop as much in long cable runs,& the amperage doesn't drop as much either.
How is doing this any different then sticking the electrode?
I have repeatedly seen sa200s hooked to frozen water lines to thaw them. This little hit is nothing for a generator machine. Ever heard of a load bank?
Yea welding supply stores sell all the relevant dense and other style connectors of appropriate ampacity
AMEN at 8:10 ! Comfort and good visibility make great welds .
Sadly I've been thinking about trying a magnifying lens in the welding helmet ..... Age is creeping up and probably need to go see the Doc about glasses .
That's a pretty cool trick welding the cables together !
Finally someone that will explain welding leads. I’ve only seen videos explaining what lead they use not why they use it. Thanks for the insight nice video
Running a 210amp system right now and running 2/0 because it's what I was told to use back when I worked the oil fields. A 100 foot reach is good for most of my jobs and I'm looking to start is a small mobile welding business for apartment and condo complexes and gated communities.
Welding cables together. Who knew?! Now I have a trick up my sleeve. I hope I never have to use it though...
I just got my first engine drive a 1981 lincoln weldanpower 225amp and need leads and this helped alot
Austin, how about skinning the cables about an inch sliding them together, then applying current? Thank you for the videos.
🤷♂️ worth a shot.. I’d be interested what would happen.
This is a much better approach.
Wonder if adding Flux would help them solder together. Like it either way going to do my whips like that from now on!
Love the video, would love to see an update video on your current hoods and helmets.
When you do a splice like you did near the end of the video -- put some heat shrink tubing around the spice to help protect it -- just a thought
I got my welder on a boat trailer with a tool box to pull around the farm with 4 wheeler to weld up continuous fence with and sucker rodes. I think the ground is 5 feet and the stinger is on a 20 foot lead
Thanks for sharing with us Austin, good information and interesting splices. Fred.
That welding trick (joining the cables) is crazy! Amazing!
Kalas brand wire is the best I’ve come across. I’m bias as anything cause I worked for them. But I’ve never burned it up and I’ve drug it thousands of feet
That’s awesome thank you!! I’ll be putting my whip together like this
Hey “A” man, yet again solid advice. Some of the leads I have are close to 35yrs old. I always roll them the same way, when I store them in the box. Hood down lights on.
I saw that on ig about 7 years ago. I had to flick em, long arc a hot minute, and then jam em up. You can use copper pipe if you don't have those sleeves too
Next video on your welding table 👀 nice
Something to try when I need to join my leads next time
Austin. I have a similar question regarding your torch. Why do you braid your torch hose and why only the first bit.
I got a good set of leads that I got from a old pipeliner and my stay outside all the time and they are still good leads
I used a tweco mig nozzle to splice my 1/0 lead, stuck the lead in there, smashed the nozzle down to crimp it, and center punched the nozzle to really lock it in there.
That welded splice is pretty cool but I'll stick with the spider splice.
You could also easily braise them together with a torch and a piece of rod if you really wanted to get that hard-core. Personally I’ve always just put mine in a sleeve and crimped with a hydraulic crimper
Would you be willing to do a video for people just starting out I’m new to welding since I was introduced to it in my school since it’s a vocational HS I’ve only done stick using 7024 or 7013 I believe and I’m having trouble keeping it straight and I’m learning to watch the pool but I’m usually slow or to fast just thought I’d ask you bc your a bit more informative then a lot of other channels with this kind of content
How about that amazing Hank Hill impression!!!
I wish go back on road Austin lol I enjoy enjoyed them vids a lot I like all your content just my favorite is when ya pipelining
Doing good A that grading was the worst on welding lead
tganks for explanatio, best regards from Venezuela
Thanks for ur knowledge 💯👍
Done that 30 years ago at the fab shop
Good for out in the bush. But guaranteed that joint is a bottle neck. I suggest using a crimp joiner. The price of leads why even muck around with it.
thanks for another great video buddy 👍👍
So you said that size of lead is determined by length which is true but you also said that you figured your on 250 feet, but you cut your in half which is 125 feet which would make quite a bit a difference on amp draw especially on stinger lead no so much on ground lead. Being a electrician it kind of caught my attention. With that being said I have learned quite by watching your videos and hope to put them to use on my own fence building, plus you live right here in good ole Oklahoma.
I never thought about that but now I’m wondering about splicing the cable and soldiering it with dialectric grease and heat tube like you would regular wiring it’ll be good to go on everything including salt water if you do it right and really it wouldn’t be too ridged if you kept it tight and it’ll be as good as if it were never cut
Curious why you left pipeline and if you see yourself ever going back. Great content.
If you do a PROPER western union joint. It will last . It stays flexible with no hard edges that can damage the wire making a hot spot .
I did the same thing to weld the wire to the stinger bc I kept getting the cable snagged and yanked it free XD
Best long leads out there is a big ol spool of high line wire.
Great video Austin 👍!! Thanks for sharing this info. BTW, how is Andy doing?
You bet! Thanks for watching!
I have not heard from him. I should call him.
Andy was a cool guy!! Have you Been able to keep up with him?
I use 2/0 leads 150ft stinger 150ft ground in 50ft sections I use it with my miller cst280
Most welders do tell you, in the manual (you know, the paper thing that ignorant people who think they know more than they actually do, throw away) have a chart that tells you which cable size you need for the maximum amps your machine has, vs the length of the lead. And as Ross has pointed out, the lead length is the length of the lead from welder to torch or work clamp, times two. In other words, he total length of wire.
By the way, when he says to hammer the Surface Pro,ice connector, I hope he doesn’t mean to just use a hammer. That doesn’t work properly unless you have a cast connector with two stubs sticking inside that the hammer will squash against the wire, gripping it. Otherwise, with a smooth connector, you’re just hammering the connector flat, and many of the wires will be loose inside-very bad. You need a crimp block that the connector slips into. You then hammer that, and it indents the connector.
Solder it, heat shrink it call it a day was how I always done it
Could this be used as permanent? Or more if in a bind kinda deal?
Wouldn't silver brazing rod in there make a better splice?
Hello. I'm New to your channel. love all of your material. I came across one your videos talking about a podcast do you guys still do that and if so what's the name of it
Right on
Wow! I just did the math, for 125 ft. Leads that's half the cost of the machine. I will stick with my way Oversized leads and just not weld in humid/wet locations and just put a whip on me so when it's wrapped around me and it starts raining. I won't be a fish out of water flopping around.
Do you have a link to those gloves ?
hey do you make more doing the videos or on the pipe line ? notice hasn't been to much pipe line work showed
So how long has it been since you quit pipeline welding? What type of welding are you doing now just curious, keep up the good work
Would be even better if you put heat shrink around it after, the glue type
Austin, I ordered the inexpensive $80 - --110 volt HONE stick welder, which is rated at around 120 amps max. It comes with copper coated aluminum cables that are about 8 foot long. My question is, do you think it there would be a significant improvement on the welders performance, if I were to spend $40 and purchase pure copper 4 gauge cable that is only 5 foot leads ?
At 8 feet long probably not that much of a difference. I would invest in longer leads if you choose to buy 100% copper leads. it will make a lot more difference in your welding then having Super Duper leads that are really short.
Try to get yourself some number two or number one leads that are at least 50 feet long that will serve you well for a long time and you’ll be able to move them from machine to machine. Having enough that you can move around to work piece is key.
Just to confirm, when sizing your welding leads, you add the length of both your ground and your electrode lead to size your cable? I was always under the assumption that only one cable was measured for length. I have been way under sizing my cable.
Yes, your total welding circuit. Both ground and stinger.
Most charts I’ve seen will explicitly say which length to use when calculating, whether it’s the total or just one lead, I’ve seen charts for both
@@garretr4488 the charts that don’t say both leads, assume you understand that.
Like Austin said, what kind of welding are you doing ? Rated output of machine covers all situations. Guy I bought my SA200 from said in 30 years of pipeline welding, he never took it out of 2nd gear.. 120 amps works fine for 5/32" rods, so no reason to run a heavier lead than 1/0 for my purposes.
Whats your opinion on the Hobart Handler 100? I just got one and I like it for small projects and stuff. Got some good hobart .030 wire and it does pretty dang good for how small it is. I opted for it over the Harbor freight 125 flux core just because I've heard in general Hobart is a better welding brand and can get parts easier if needed.
Im not him but ... Hobart is solid though. 👌
@@DonnyBwelding1 right on brother. Appreciate your opinion
I can’t say from experience cause I’ve never owned one but it seems like a decent machine from what you have learned about it so far.
@@cashen7384 my pleasure ...so much to learn in welding ...every procedure calls for a different approach . But Hobart is reputable ! That's a good first machine ...and I can tell you the Chicago electric harbor freight isn't good . If you're looking for a Mts under 1k check out everlast welders but know if u want the best miller or fronius . They are the best for a reason and preform above in my experience
I got a Hobart Handler works great and I have it wired in for 240 volts. I got a 125 flux core from Horrible freight as well and never had a problem welding thin steel.
Great info!
I feel like if you let it heat up for 5 seconds it would make a better connection?
Hey Austin just wondering, what size cable would you recommend for your stinger? Maybe like a #1 opposed to a 1/O?
13:02 HE FARTED
Awesome thank you for the tip
Great tip on welding welding leads. Just so I’m clear on this, your connected to the DC + on the leads to be welded? The orange lead is connected to the positive side of the machine and the black lead is connected to your stinger? Thanks 🙏🏻
Yes, that’s correct
Just get some silver bearing solder with some liquid flux and solder them together.
What size wire should I use on 225 lincold ranger with 25 ft leads
I call my mig gun a whip and my other setup for stick a stinger
Got to admit that’s cool 😎
What size cable for yer whip? Is that 2 gauge or smaller?
What size whip do you have on there?
Instead of trying to weld them together why not just solder then ? Would be a much more electrically sound joint use flux to make sure the joint is peniteated with solder and just keep pushing it in untill it's saturated
What happened to your other channel with your wife Kayla? I miss watching the videos
The tricks you never used and never knew about and now retired
hOW ANY STRANDS IN A 2/0 WELD CABLE. PLEASE?
How do you connect this welding leads? It's horrible!
Just curious, do you MIG weld, or have you MIG welded?
Yes. I have mig welded. My first 3 years after high school was 95% squirt gun.
ok
I never see that how to join cable what amps did you used to do that
Cranked all the way up to the max settings
👋
So you burn up a stinger doing this. I have been a welding business owner over 30 years and I can't imagine this working for x Ray quality welds
nice
Nice bro
Thank
If you just park your rig closer, you can use the smaller leads.😅😂😂😂
RUclips cooper ranchin
For a perfect Hank Hill impression from an actual Texan, see 13:34
I was wondering if he dubbed in Hank Hill…
Next up a mig whip hahahahahah
Take 82.
Successful weld but your lead is only 5 feet long.
12 bucks a ft for 1/0 in ontario Canada
Try canada welding supply online. Amazing prices out of ontario.
First
Û
3rd haha
Blah blah blah. Get on with it.
I would never trust that splice.