Whoa memories.... I worked for Osella in the summer of 84 for the North American races. By then we switched to Alfa Romeo power and I got to work beside Ermanno Cuoghi, who was a legendary mechanic in Italy. F1 was very different then.
Thanks for commenting, that must have been an epic time to be involved, in 84 I remember Alfa used both N/a and turbo motors in the same season in the Ossella, don't think any other team did that. 👍
inspirational for this 70's Moto Morini owner making up a custom exhaust system for the 3 1/2. so very cool how you implemented a slip ring into the joints to facilitate the fitting/positioning. learning is such a cool gig in these types of moments. thanks for your posts & the effort to get the details out. cheers to more of these.
Love the two parallel alignment marks, I have done this marking technique for decades but rarely see it. The two lines close together is done to take out alignment error that one line can introduce. 👍
Incredible work and masterfully done. Would imagine trying to use filler on butt welds with that thin of material would just cause stress risers/discontinuity and not be worth it. Makes the final welds go so quick and smooth, feels liberating just to watch- especially when we weld sch10 321 turbo manifolds all day
Thanks Gavin, although I'm a novice at filming/editing, I do kind of enjoy doing it, just need more practice. BTW, you have some very interesting content on your channel too.
In the ~10 years of running our car, I had to make 2 sets of headers. The first did fine for, oh, 3-4 years until a helper tightened the 'loose tabs' between the primaries and the collector. After that, every meet showed a newly cracked primary regardless of the corrected fit. On the second set, I learned to check the primary length measurements by filling each with water; constant section means constant volume/length. Had to make one or two full replacements but the remainder 'adjusted' to ~1/4", which was fine by me. My welding is not in the same league as yours.
I love these kind of comment's, thank you, yes, measuring the volume of each primary could be a way to do it, but when you have many bends in one primary and one almost straight, both having equal volume, the primary with all the bends would be very slightly longer due to the reduced overall diameter of the bend area, so it's always best to find a way to measure the length rather than the volume. I too aim for +/- 1/4". 👍👍
Are you wearing a TAG Heuer chronograph while fabricating? Maybe that is the true mark of a master. Lol And by the way, the early 80s F1 cars were so amazing. Thank you for doing your part to keep them on tracks! :)
@@LANCETHEGASS You are getting your money's worth out of that TAG! And while I am partial to the N/A cars of that era, I have to admit that Nelson Piquet's BMW Brabham blasting down Atwater St. in Detroit left an indelible mark on my soul. Lol.. Especially during qualifying, such brutality!!
Well it's been back to Tag once for a full refresh and service about 5 years ago, but still going strong. Some of the Turbo cars were awesome, and when they turned up the boost in quali it was epic, but I felt at the time that F1 had lost something with the noise of the n/a engines long gone. 👍
Thanks for the comment, it's mainly for strength/support as the material is very thin, and also to prevent accidental injury to the mechanics working around that area. 👍
Good congratulations, you must have been working for many years. I have several concerns. I see that it measures the length, I checked the comments and it says +/- 1/4, the curves are measured in the middle so that it is the average, if it is for street or city vehicles can more tolerance be given or is it very important. There must be a sequence for the order of ignition. The material is 304 stainless steel, it is one of the best for this. Regarding the machine and the arc, this is a pulsed arc, I have never welded with this machine, you can also weld with a Miller Econotig or a TIG with high frequency and have a similar result, that is, you can control something similar with the pedal. Thank you very much for sharing the videos, information and your knowledge.
Thanks for commenting, equal lengths are very important for these old n/a engines, but for road vehicles, not so much. The material used on this job is 321 stainless. As for your technique for pulse welding, I understand what you mean, but I would need Cosy Powell sitting next to me working the pedal! ✌👍
Hi Lance- beautiful work! Quick question- does a single slip at the collector not leak or is it not so critical based on the application> e.g. would you use a double slip joint for a road application where you still had the expansion requirement?
Thank you Michael, only time I would use a double slip would be on a turbo application, I don’t really get involved in road cars, but I believe the exhaust system must be sealed for current UK MOT requirements, and a slip joint may not meet that requirement, I’m not really sure. 👍
Just to clarify, the slip joint is there to allow flexibility of the whole system, which helps with reliability, especially with materials as thin as in this application, they very rarely seal completely. 👍
Would be very interested to see you tackle a turbo manifold so please share of you get one in the shop (interested in how you work around the access issues without slip joints etc)
Lance, super craftsmanship! You make it look so easy - lots of experience, I'm sure! For my Tiga F/F, where did you get those springs for the saddle mounts? And, you installed bent links on the collector retainers - have bolts & compression springs gone away? Thanks! James
Thanks James, I bought a huge pile of springs when Micron went bust, but my stock is running low now. The straps I tend to use when my customers request them, costs a little more though 👍
Well spotted, it's just so that I don't inadvertently move the torch during post flow. If the weld was allowed to cool without the post flow protection it would be toast 👍
Good question, what you don't really get a sense of in the video is the time spent preparing each joint before tacking, this is critical when using this material. If the preps good, the welding is quite straight forward. 👍
What amazing skills you have...... I can see length, and size of the Headers' could you please tell me what diameter and length the tail pipe Is Thanks
Geeza,i noticed you put 4 small tacks on the ends of the pipes what is this for 13.37 min ? and to today i realized that perfect weld finish can only be achieved with the attention to detail in the prep! ie zero gap, perfectly flat and round joint,no light.then and only then can one pulse and travel quit quick to negate the heat being put into the material.all this was only realized with your input :) Mush :)
Ayup, if you watch from 13.06 you'll see me making a couple of rings, these are what you see being tacked onto the ends of the tailpipes, they are for providing support as the material is very thin, and is also safer for mechanics when working around that area on the car. Joint prep is very important, makes the welding a doddle........Mush!😄😄🤟
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Whoa memories.... I worked for Osella in the summer of 84 for the North American races. By then we switched to Alfa Romeo power and I got to work beside Ermanno Cuoghi, who was a legendary mechanic in Italy. F1 was very different then.
Thanks for commenting, that must have been an epic time to be involved, in 84 I remember Alfa used both N/a and turbo motors in the same season in the Ossella, don't think any other team did that. 👍
inspirational for this 70's Moto Morini owner making up a custom exhaust system for the 3 1/2. so very cool how you implemented a slip ring into the joints to facilitate the fitting/positioning. learning is such a cool gig in these types of moments. thanks for your posts & the effort to get the details out. cheers to more of these.
ruclips.net/video/vA-Z3ncTdUY/видео.html&ab_channel=Maisteer . . ... LoL!!
Beautiful workshop and stellar craftsmanship
Having the proper equipment to fabricate like this means everything. For example, that machine for expanding the tubes is great.
You're absolutely right, couldn't do the job without it 👍
Beautiful and highly skilled exhaust fabrication, its a credit to your skill and passion.
Thank you very much! 😊
Love the two parallel alignment marks, I have done this marking technique for decades but rarely see it.
The two lines close together is done to take out alignment error that one line can introduce. 👍
Thanks for the comment, couldn't agree more 👍
You make it look easy, but I know it's not! Mark of a true craftsman.👍
Thank you 👍
Incredible work and masterfully done. Would imagine trying to use filler on butt welds with that thin of material would just cause stress risers/discontinuity and not be worth it. Makes the final welds go so quick and smooth, feels liberating just to watch- especially when we weld sch10 321 turbo manifolds all day
a 3D puzzle is child's play compared to this! Marvelous work!
Thank you 👍
sitting here it looks totally easy, but from own experience I can say, this is top notch workmanship.
Thanks very much 👍
Awesome work Sir, a pure joy to watch someone so skilled - they are beautiful!
Thank you very much! 😊
best in the business
Very nice job sir! Cheers from Italy!!!
Beautiful work!!!
Thank you so much 😀
Got to build an exhaust on my 74 Europa restomod. Audi 1.8 on ITB's. Learned Soooo much from this simple video. Thank you.
Glad to help 👍, thanks for commenting
Complimenti!
Beautiful work sir.
Great skills brother , your subscriber count will soon begin to rocket!!
Thank you, just need to learn how to use a camera 😂👍
@@LANCETHEGASS your skills are so good you should pay someone to edit etc you can just work your magic.
Thanks Gavin, although I'm a novice at filming/editing, I do kind of enjoy doing it, just need more practice. BTW, you have some very interesting content on your channel too.
Simply outstanding, 10/10 +
Thank you 😊
I only ever built 1 set of headers. It was on a pro stock hemi in a dodge omni. It went very well.
In the ~10 years of running our car, I had to make 2 sets of headers. The first did fine for, oh, 3-4 years until a helper tightened the 'loose tabs' between the primaries and the collector. After that, every meet showed a newly cracked primary regardless of the corrected fit. On the second set, I learned to check the primary length measurements by filling each with water; constant section means constant volume/length. Had to make one or two full replacements but the remainder 'adjusted' to ~1/4", which was fine by me. My welding is not in the same league as yours.
I love these kind of comment's, thank you, yes, measuring the volume of each primary could be a way to do it, but when you have many bends in one primary and one almost straight, both having equal volume, the primary with all the bends would be very slightly longer due to the reduced overall diameter of the bend area, so it's always best to find a way to measure the length rather than the volume. I too aim for +/- 1/4". 👍👍
Very nice work Lance, best i have ever seen, Thanks Godbless
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Pure artistry 👌👌👌
Thank you 😊
a work of art!
Beautiful car with a beautiful exhaust now as well 👌🏻🏁
Interesting. You autogenous weld them? Came out really nice! Good job
Thanks for the great video. I really enjoyed it.
Glad you enjoyed it!👍
Are you wearing a TAG Heuer chronograph while fabricating? Maybe that is the true mark of a master. Lol
And by the way, the early 80s F1 cars were so amazing. Thank you for doing your part to keep them on tracks! :)
Thanks for the comment, Ha, yes it is a TAG Carrera, had it 21 years, never take it off, and you're right about 80's F1 cars, but only the N/A ones. 👍
@@LANCETHEGASS You are getting your money's worth out of that TAG! And while I am partial to the N/A cars of that era, I have to admit that Nelson Piquet's BMW Brabham blasting down Atwater St. in Detroit left an indelible mark on my soul. Lol.. Especially during qualifying, such brutality!!
Well it's been back to Tag once for a full refresh and service about 5 years ago, but still going strong. Some of the Turbo cars were awesome, and when they turned up the boost in quali it was epic, but I felt at the time that F1 had lost something with the noise of the n/a engines long gone. 👍
@@LANCETHEGASS VERY true! It's a sad situation currently.
Очень интересно! Большое спасибо!
Thank you 👍
Hi Lance . Top work there buddy
Thanks Chris, top man 👍👍
@@LANCETHEGASS craftsmanship mate,hope you're all good.
@@levyracing8301Yeah all good Chris, still enjoying work in my 60's, you still racing?
@@LANCETHEGASS yes mate got a dallara now.
Ha, too fast for old men like me😂@@levyracing8301
Are you able to do a video of how you have set up the welder?
If you watch @16.38 you should see the settings 👍
Looks like 1 pulse per second keeps it cool
👌 Bingo!
Did you guys do some modern sims and calcs or did you work off of the original plans?
Thanks for commenting, used the spec from Cosworth, 👍
Can't believe you didn't fire it up!
Ha, I wouldn't know how to start it 😃
Ossella is legends
Beautiful work. Building headers is half engineering and half art. If I may ask, what is the purpose of the additional hoop at the exit for?
Thanks for the comment, it's mainly for strength/support as the material is very thin, and also to prevent accidental injury to the mechanics working around that area. 👍
Beautiful craftsmanship, how many hours involved
Thank you, around 60 hours total 👍
What amazing skills you have.. Could you please tell me the size and length of the Tail pipes Thanks
Good congratulations, you must have been working for many years. I have several concerns. I see that it measures the length, I checked the comments and it says +/- 1/4, the curves are measured in the middle so that it is the average, if it is for street or city vehicles can more tolerance be given or is it very important. There must be a sequence for the order of ignition. The material is 304 stainless steel, it is one of the best for this. Regarding the machine and the arc, this is a pulsed arc, I have never welded with this machine, you can also weld with a Miller Econotig or a TIG with high frequency and have a similar result, that is, you can control something similar with the pedal.
Thank you very much for sharing the videos, information and your knowledge.
Thanks for commenting, equal lengths are very important for these old n/a engines, but for road vehicles, not so much. The material used on this job is 321 stainless. As for your technique for pulse welding, I understand what you mean, but I would need Cosy Powell sitting next to me working the pedal! ✌👍
Hi Lance-
beautiful work! Quick question- does a single slip at the collector not leak or is it not so critical based on the application> e.g. would you use a double slip joint for a road application where you still had the expansion requirement?
Thank you Michael, only time I would use a double slip would be on a turbo application, I don’t really get involved in road cars, but I believe the exhaust system must be sealed for current UK MOT requirements, and a slip joint may not meet that requirement, I’m not really sure. 👍
Just to clarify, the slip joint is there to allow flexibility of the whole system, which helps with reliability, especially with materials as thin as in this application, they very rarely seal completely. 👍
I must be getting really old I loved learning arc welding and oxy welding I never see anyone do that anymore lol
Thanks for the comment, I cut my teeth on gas and stick welding in the late 70's, I know what you mean 😃👍
@@LANCETHEGASS love watching you work keep it up, now subscribed
@@jamesdungan6198 Thanks James, will do 👍
Would be very interested to see you tackle a turbo manifold so please share of you get one in the shop (interested in how you work around the access issues without slip joints etc)
Lance, super craftsmanship! You make it look so easy - lots of experience, I'm sure!
For my Tiga F/F, where did you get those springs for the saddle mounts?
And, you installed bent links on the collector retainers - have bolts & compression springs gone away?
Thanks!
James
Thanks James, I bought a huge pile of springs when Micron went bust, but my stock is running low now. The straps I tend to use when my customers request them, costs a little more though 👍
Thanks for the vendor! There's a eBay UK listing for Micron SS springs - what length do you use: 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 mm?
@@jamesrussell212 65mm👍
Lance, thanks for the info & please keep posting videos!
Regards,
James
Tiga FFA-77
My dream job !
Mine too....😊
Very nice 👌
Thanks 😊
Sometimes I think the hardest part is getting that damn wax paper off the back side of the chrome tape.
Too true 😂🤟
Why do you stick the tungsten to the work at the end of each bead?
Well spotted, it's just so that I don't inadvertently move the torch during post flow. If the weld was allowed to cool without the post flow protection it would be toast 👍
@@LANCETHEGASS - would that not require you to re-grind the tip at each instance of this?
No, not at all, if you watch closely, I'm careful not to touch it until the weld has cooled sufficiently 👍
@@LANCETHEGASS - Ah, I see, thank you!
Dope.
Sure did enjoy the video. I guessed 80 hours.
It was a busy week, that's for sure 👍, thanks for the comment.
Beautiful work! How much did it end up weighing?
Thank you, just over 8 Ib per side, or 3.6 kg. 👍
Ждал великолепный звук выхлопа в конце видео😢
Don't you have to add welding material when welding? How do you prevent creating holes in the thin material?
Good question, what you don't really get a sense of in the video is the time spent preparing each joint before tacking, this is critical when using this material. If the preps good, the welding is quite straight forward. 👍
A tight joint you can pulse the Tig power & fuse the joints together with no filler
Correct 👍
Beautiful work! Can we hear that thing next time?
What amazing skills you have...... I can see length, and size of the Headers' could you please tell me what diameter and length the tail pipe Is Thanks
Thank you, yes 2.5" dia, and 27" long
But who bent and cut all the pipes to the perfect shape in the first place? That would be the hard bit.
Thanks for commenting, yes, you're absolutely right, it is the hard bit and if I showed all that in the video it would be a week long! 😃👍
Geeza,i noticed you put 4 small tacks on the ends of the pipes what is this for 13.37 min ? and to today i realized that perfect weld finish can only be achieved with the attention to detail in the prep! ie zero gap, perfectly flat and round joint,no light.then and only then can one pulse and travel quit quick to negate the heat being put into the material.all this was only realized with your input :) Mush :)
Ayup, if you watch from 13.06 you'll see me making a couple of rings, these are what you see being tacked onto the ends of the tailpipes, they are for providing support as the material is very thin, and is also safer for mechanics when working around that area on the car. Joint prep is very important, makes the welding a doddle........Mush!😄😄🤟
You forgot the welding rod. 😢
Yes, I'm always forgetting something 😊, must be an age thing...
It was cut so well I could hardly see the lines that needed welding !
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you 👍
i wanna here the sound of the pipe bro:? you did all the work and no beutiful sound?
Ha 😃, I feel your pain Man, I never get to hear them in here 🙃, thank's for the comment 🤟
Amazing craftsmanship. Yet we hear no finished product...🤔🤦♂️
Hi great job we’re are you based
Thank you 👍 Near Newark
Le mec mesure en pouce, je suis mort de rire...
😂😂
60 hrs times $125. hr equals $
£125/hr.........I wish that were the case 😢
@LANCETHEGASS I had to giggle at this too, that would be a sweet rate if you could get it, but it’s not that simple.
SUB'D ASAP
Thank you 👍
F1,???😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the comment, always nice to get some positive vibes 👍
Kojim aparatom vari ovo?
Miller Dynasty 350 👍
@@LANCETHEGASS po kojem principu radi to ...?
🤔....not sure what you're asking....