Hi. Just a comment for reference. At 6.20 in you refer to seals - they are in fact spacers and underneath there are seals through which the pistons travel. I’ve just taken mine apart as I think it is those seals that are my problem - not exactly sure as yet. I have pressure with the machine but not enough - and I have no other leaks.
Hi, you may be correct with the seals. I didn't want to pull mine apart as it doesn't leak and didn't want to mess it up .-. - i think i meant the spacers are like a headgasket, when thinking about it like a combustion-engine, thought they might have double duty. I'm gonna link an update if i ever get to it...
Thanks for video. My problem was loose connection in wiring coming off the switch inside white plastic housing. Thanks for showing how to take apart. Really helpful you explaining the workings of preasure washer also.
I repaired my same model yesterday. The small black rubber item you were enquiring about is a kind of seal where the back pressure of the pump turns the motor off via a small piston rod through the pump casing and activates the power switch momentarily. There's a small blue (on mine) same-shaped seal on the white switch housing through which the piston rod passes to press onto the silver metal spring-loaded metal part. When the trigger is released, the pump back-pressure activates the small rod to switch the power off. The power switch is a momentary type of switch which is normally on until water pressure forces it to go off (via the small rod or piston). The rotating power switch (black knob) overrides this action by using a small cam to raise the pressure off the red internal power switch. Oh, that isn't easy to explain!
Sorry, I forgot to thank you for a great video. Update on my repair. I attempted the repair because the machine was 'on' all the time, regardless of the trigger position. I stripped it down to understand how it worked and watched a few RUclips videos. None really addressed my exact issue, but they were great at showing the theory of operation. I greased all the parts around the piston rod. Stripped down the white housing to check the wiring and switch action, which seemed fine. While still disassembled, I connected the power, output hose and water supply, and to my amazement, it worked normally. I reassembled it, cleaned it up and gave it to my son-in-law. I had already bought a new one but wanted to re-use this old one if it was easily fixed.
Really useful video. Mine had all the cleaner solution pipes blocked up and I had trouble removing the cover - after watching your video it all made sense - why put the screws behind the wheels beats me. Pipes now cleaned and reassembled.
I just fixed mine earlier today. It wouldn't switch on. Inside that red switch there are two more springs placed on the contacts, I found one has come off and fixed. I suggest you get yourself a multimeter so that you don't go live to test. Great video by the way 👍
Hi. Just a comment for reference. At 6.20 in you refer to seals which are in fact spacers. Under the spacers are rubber seals. I have just taken mine apart and I believe that these seals are my problem. Always good to see videos like yours.
Thanks, great video and hats off to you for the spare part follow up. My Karcher switch is not turning the unit off anymore, but otherwise works. I reckon that's the better problem to have and I don't fancy taking the motor apart to get into the switch - though I guess I could if the switch stops delivering power altogether.
@@timothyharding618 yes that’s what they would say as Karcher only provide a complete head unit that costs almost as much as a new pressure washer. But if you have the skills and understanding, the micro switch inside the unit can be replaced for a couple of £££s, that’s what I did.
@@drlodge I've dismantled mine, I have the brown switch in pieces now, can't share pics on here but it looks much darker brown shades around the electrodes
I did, but I can't remember and it's not in the original footage either, thats my bad... gonna look into it though... There you go: ruclips.net/video/_NGCFUCP0uI/видео.html
SIR ;- DO NOT GET CLOSE TO IT !!! junk and JUNK !! WHAT IS WRONG WITH GERMANY ?? ENGENERIES !!! please till them to use toggle switch and in side pressture !!! switch !!! from saudi arabia @@@
Boys toys that is definitely a toy I will never ever go near Karcher again they are Krap for the price that you pay,you won’t see one at the car wash will you if you are here then you know it’s a toy not even DIY
@@kevindonovan3887 AVA a Norwegian jet washer company great guarantee spares are dirt cheap plus they show you how to fit them I got the cheapest should have got next one up it does the job and all my Karcher bits fit 10/10 look them up.Kevin
Hi. Just a comment for reference. At 6.20 in you refer to seals - they are in fact spacers and underneath there are seals through which the pistons travel. I’ve just taken mine apart as I think it is those seals that are my problem - not exactly sure as yet. I have pressure with the machine but not enough - and I have no other leaks.
Hi, you may be correct with the seals. I didn't want to pull mine apart as it doesn't leak and didn't want to mess it up .-. - i think i meant the spacers are like a headgasket, when thinking about it like a combustion-engine, thought they might have double duty. I'm gonna link an update if i ever get to it...
Thanks for video. My problem was loose connection in wiring coming off the switch inside white plastic housing. Thanks for showing how to take apart. Really helpful you explaining the workings of preasure washer also.
I repaired my same model yesterday. The small black rubber item you were enquiring about is a kind of seal where the back pressure of the pump turns the motor off via a small piston rod through the pump casing and activates the power switch momentarily. There's a small blue (on mine) same-shaped seal on the white switch housing through which the piston rod passes to press onto the silver metal spring-loaded metal part. When the trigger is released, the pump back-pressure activates the small rod to switch the power off. The power switch is a momentary type of switch which is normally on until water pressure forces it to go off (via the small rod or piston). The rotating power switch (black knob) overrides this action by using a small cam to raise the pressure off the red internal power switch. Oh, that isn't easy to explain!
You seem to have a pretty good understanding of it now, and definetly explained the part better than me ^^
Cheers
Sorry, I forgot to thank you for a great video. Update on my repair. I attempted the repair because the machine was 'on' all the time, regardless of the trigger position. I stripped it down to understand how it worked and watched a few RUclips videos. None really addressed my exact issue, but they were great at showing the theory of operation. I greased all the parts around the piston rod. Stripped down the white housing to check the wiring and switch action, which seemed fine. While still disassembled, I connected the power, output hose and water supply, and to my amazement, it worked normally. I reassembled it, cleaned it up and gave it to my son-in-law. I had already bought a new one but wanted to re-use this old one if it was easily fixed.
Really useful video. Mine had all the cleaner solution pipes blocked up and I had trouble removing the cover - after watching your video it all made sense - why put the screws behind the wheels beats me. Pipes now cleaned and reassembled.
I just fixed mine earlier today. It wouldn't switch on. Inside that red switch there are two more springs placed on the contacts, I found one has come off and fixed. I suggest you get yourself a multimeter so that you don't go live to test. Great video by the way 👍
Thank you for sharing your ideas. Hats off to you ❤.
Hi. Just a comment for reference. At 6.20 in you refer to seals which are in fact spacers. Under the spacers are rubber seals. I have just taken mine apart and I believe that these seals are my problem. Always good to see videos like yours.
Thanks, great video and hats off to you for the spare part follow up. My Karcher switch is not turning the unit off anymore, but otherwise works. I reckon that's the better problem to have and I don't fancy taking the motor apart to get into the switch - though I guess I could if the switch stops delivering power altogether.
Thanks! Yea why bother fixing as long as it does it's job and the pressure shut off works.
You can get a replacement switch from cpc Farnell SW04818. Need to remove some plastic webbing but otherwise a direct replacement.
@@drlodgemy k4 won't turn off either, after speaking to KArcher the switch has to be replaced as a complete unit?
@@timothyharding618 yes that’s what they would say as Karcher only provide a complete head unit that costs almost as much as a new pressure washer. But if you have the skills and understanding, the micro switch inside the unit can be replaced for a couple of £££s, that’s what I did.
@@drlodge I've dismantled mine, I have the brown switch in pieces now, can't share pics on here but it looks much darker brown shades around the electrodes
Thanks. Really useful video.
I base on your video to fix my Karcher K5 on/off switch lever. Thank.😀
The white electrical connect part from the base can be pulled out and held with nose pliers to get a good connection.
16:04 -> Have you figured out where does that little thing go? Thanks
I did, but I can't remember and it's not in the original footage either, thats my bad... gonna look into it though...
There you go: ruclips.net/video/_NGCFUCP0uI/видео.html
It's support For the electrical switch
HOW MUCH COST REPAIR SWITCH PROBLEM
Same issue
SIR ;- DO NOT GET CLOSE TO IT !!! junk and JUNK !! WHAT IS WRONG WITH GERMANY ?? ENGENERIES !!! please till them to use toggle switch and in side pressture !!! switch !!! from saudi arabia @@@
Boys toys that is definitely a toy I will never ever go near Karcher again they are Krap for the price that you pay,you won’t see one at the car wash will you if you are here then you know it’s a toy not even DIY
Things have their engineered failures (sadly). Don't want that? Go industrial. But no shame in tryin' to fix something thats already broken ay?
@@enmecerror1789 It's a Jock thing haha as you know.tried everything gave up not spending another penny on Karcher thru it in the Sklp
Which is a good model to get instead of Karcher?
@@kevindonovan3887 AVA a Norwegian jet washer company great guarantee spares are dirt cheap plus they show you how to fit them I got the cheapest should have got next one up it does the job and all my Karcher bits fit 10/10 look them up.Kevin
lost power supply
you may elaborate...?