Another great video, Winston. We found that unless the Dewalt was all the way down in the clamp, we sometimes found the bottom v-wheels coming off the z-axis tracks when milling deeper holes. (still above the waste board). I notice you have the black ring on the router still, which limits how low you can position it.
Yep, the total Z-travel is slightly affected. Even more so if you use the Makita router (it's shorter). When I don't need the full travel of the Z, I like to keep the spindle slightly elevated. Reduces the effective moment arm at the tip of the endmill. Probably doesn't produce any noticeable benefit in accuracy, but as an engineer I'm happy to entertain the theory...
I am new to the CNC world and your videos have been invaluable. I have a Shapeoko 3 and it's a great machine. The included Carbide software is great for simple projects but is not what I have the machine for. In the past few month I started learning Fusion 360 to create the designs for some electric guitars which have a lot of 3D contours. However, I am having a problem with the post-processors after creating the toolpath through fusion 360 cam. So far the videos I've seen of your different projects don't cover the post-processor you use to get everything working with the Shapeoko 3. If you have please send me a link. If not, would you be so kind as to do a video on the Fusion 360 post-processors you use for Shapeoko 3. It would be greatly appreciated. Again, loving your videos, keep up the good work. Any information on this topic from anyone else is welcome as well.
Yes. Somehow after the clearing pass and tool change when I start the rough pass, the tool plunges into the material retracts and the starts to cut about 1/8 above the material.
Winston is the USB dropout issue totally solved with this new board? Do you know specifically what they've added to the USB isolation circuitry? I've replaced the carbide motion board with one i designed using RS232 instead to work around this. I'm considering buying a second machine if this has been solved.
My own issues with router interference were solved completely, and the Carbide team reports >99% success in the wild. You can likely contact support and have your board replaced at-cost, or even free and see for yourself.
Do you plan on building another enclosure for your new Shapeoko 3? I want to build an enclosure myself but I'm a bit concerned about the heat the enclosure will keep in. Any thoughts on this? Really enjoyed your videos btw.
I currently do not have plans for an enclosure, since my table is barely big enough for the XL. But Richard C. has been running some of the most demanding projects I've ever seen on a Shapeoko 3, and he's got an enclosed setup with no problems. ruclips.net/video/NMDZQaWtuWA/видео.html
question, i bought the router on amazon, but i realized the router uses some kind of aluminum case/sleeve? where do you get that? i wasn't able to find any related info on Carbide 3D site, nor i was able to find a purchase link for the router or the case for it
you mean this? shop.carbide3d.com/collections/tools/products/makita-rt0701-adapter?variant=29340264262 That's only necessary if you use the Makita, otherwise if you're using a DWP611, you should only need the naked router. No other accessories are needed for mounting.
Nevermind, i just received the router, i didn't realize it has a cover and you need to remove it to install it on the Z gantry, and that is what i thought it was a separate part, is the bare body of the router, the aluminum body with the coarse thread....
I have just come across your channel and enjoy it very much. I'm looking to buy a CNC and have done some looking into which is the best one. Can you give me some advice as to which CNC is the best!
So, I always refer people to Make Magazine's top picks: makezine.com/2015/11/04/digital-fabrication-shootout-winners/ Which leaves only the X-Carve and Shapeoko 3 as the affordable, yet generously sized options... and to that I made a video on my thoughts about the two here: ruclips.net/video/71AQBgDkAz4/видео.html Each have their pros and cons, but I think the Shapeoko is substantially more capable (stronger frame, rails, belts) for just a tiny bit more money.
Hi Winston, Are you familiar with SMW3D's model R7 cnc router? If so, could you tell me why you prefer the gt belts on your shapeoko rather than a threaded lead screw for all of the axis controls? thank you, Tony
I don't necessarily prefer GT2 belting, it's certainly a compromise in some ways, but for things like cost/length, speed, and simplicity I think it does the job quite well. I'm not personally familiar with the R7, but taking a look at it, it seems mechanically solid. Most CNC's follow the same basic recipe, and this one's no different. It'll probably be a little more work, and cost a little more to get running (controller, assembly, etc) but if you want that tiny bit more insurance in the form of super-rigid drive system I wouldn't advise against the machine. That being said, if you're NOT going to push your machine harder than Richard Cournoyer (@JPL_Richard on Instagram), I'd say save your money.
I've bought and received this model, but they appear to have forgotten the leveling feet. No response from them by email or phone, any ideas on how to deal with that?
Send them a follow up email, drop a post in the forums would be my suggestion. If I had to guess, I'd say they're still busy working through the tail end of black friday orders...
Thanks for the suggestion. In the interest of time saving, do you know if they use common parts I could maybe put in a mcmaster carr order to sidestep having to deal with their support? They should be supporting whatever mistakes they make but if it's going to take a week to get a response and have the parts ship out I'd rather solve it myself if I can, I doubt leveling feet are all that expensive
I've still got a laser project in the queue for the 2, and I have a few experiments with the 3.0 left to do. I'll reassess my CNC hoarding ways after that point...
Excellent video as always, Winston! Do you still feel pretty locked in/comfortable with the shapeoko 3 (especially given the upgrades for the 2016 models), versus an x-carve? Also, is the version you assembled in this video the XL or the XXL? I'm presently assessing CNC options (including the Dave Gatton DIY version, though, I feel like the precision of the production models like this shapeoko3 or the x-carve are gonna be way higher; purely speculation though). Anyway, thanks again for the great videos, and for insight to the above questions. Cheers!
With so many changes that directly address prior complaints/shortcomings, I think the Shapeoko 3 hardware is at a very good point. The fact that Inventables *just* went to a more rigid/custom X-axis extrusion tells me the X-carve is playing catch-up. Software wise, it's a wash, but the bundled software from Carbide is just a "nice to have" at this point. Power users will develop their own workflows. Also, Edward let me in on some of the "toys" they're developing in-house, and I think the Shapeoko 3 ecosystem is going to get even more interesting going into 2017... The touch probe video they released is just the tip of the iceberg. TLDR: I'm a happy user, and I think Carbide3D is going to continue to improve the value proposition for new and existing owners.
Hello Winston Thanks for your reply! I'm interested in the XL and I'll be fine with the size, but I'm thinking if I should get an XXL (for future-poofing). I've had a Shapeoko 2 (1m x 1m) before, and had flexing issues on the Y rails, and some deflections from the steel plates. In the XXL, are the any such issues too? Maybe minor? Is it rigid enough? - If there are, maybe I'll just stick to XL.
In the XL, the X axis is extended. That is the weakest axis, since it's single rail and I've had no issues with it. Extending the Y axis adds a negligible amount of deflection potential. More important thing to do would be to make sure you have a stable, flat place to put it, and also machine level your wasteboard.
Another great video, Winston. We found that unless the Dewalt was all the way down in the clamp, we sometimes found the bottom v-wheels coming off the z-axis tracks when milling deeper holes. (still above the waste board). I notice you have the black ring on the router still, which limits how low you can position it.
Yep, the total Z-travel is slightly affected. Even more so if you use the Makita router (it's shorter).
When I don't need the full travel of the Z, I like to keep the spindle slightly elevated. Reduces the effective moment arm at the tip of the endmill. Probably doesn't produce any noticeable benefit in accuracy, but as an engineer I'm happy to entertain the theory...
This product just keeps getting better and better. My shop is getting close to finishing. When it is ..$$
I am new to the CNC world and your videos have been invaluable. I have a Shapeoko 3 and it's a great machine. The included Carbide software is great for simple projects but is not what I have the machine for. In the past few month I started learning Fusion 360 to create the designs for some electric guitars which have a lot of 3D contours. However, I am having a problem with the post-processors after creating the toolpath through fusion 360 cam. So far the videos I've seen of your different projects don't cover the post-processor you use to get everything working with the Shapeoko 3. If you have please send me a link. If not, would you be so kind as to do a video on the Fusion 360 post-processors you use for Shapeoko 3. It would be greatly appreciated.
Again, loving your videos, keep up the good work.
Any information on this topic from anyone else is welcome as well.
+robles1999 have you tried using the Carbide3D specific post processor?
Yes. Somehow after the clearing pass and tool change when I start the rough pass, the tool plunges into the material retracts and the starts to cut about 1/8 above the material.
We bought a kit with working area of 130cmx130cm which means long cables. Which position for the control board makes most sense?
Wherever makes the most sense for you. Usually you want it kinda close to where your laptop will be so you don't need a crazy long USB cable.
is this cutting to aluminium plates
Winston is the USB dropout issue totally solved with this new board? Do you know specifically what they've added to the USB isolation circuitry? I've replaced the carbide motion board with one i designed using RS232 instead to work around this. I'm considering buying a second machine if this has been solved.
My own issues with router interference were solved completely, and the Carbide team reports >99% success in the wild. You can likely contact support and have your board replaced at-cost, or even free and see for yourself.
Do you plan on building another enclosure for your new Shapeoko 3? I want to build an enclosure myself but I'm a bit concerned about the heat the enclosure will keep in. Any thoughts on this? Really enjoyed your videos btw.
I currently do not have plans for an enclosure, since my table is barely big enough for the XL. But Richard C. has been running some of the most demanding projects I've ever seen on a Shapeoko 3, and he's got an enclosed setup with no problems. ruclips.net/video/NMDZQaWtuWA/видео.html
Awesome, thanks for the response Winston!
question, i bought the router on amazon, but i realized the router uses some kind of aluminum case/sleeve? where do you get that? i wasn't able to find any related info on Carbide 3D site, nor i was able to find a purchase link for the router or the case for it
you mean this? shop.carbide3d.com/collections/tools/products/makita-rt0701-adapter?variant=29340264262
That's only necessary if you use the Makita, otherwise if you're using a DWP611, you should only need the naked router. No other accessories are needed for mounting.
Nevermind, i just received the router, i didn't realize it has a cover and you need to remove it to install it on the Z gantry, and that is what i thought it was a separate part, is the bare body of the router, the aluminum body with the coarse thread....
I have just come across your channel and enjoy it very much. I'm looking to buy a CNC and have done some looking into which is the best one. Can you give me some advice as to which CNC is the best!
So, I always refer people to Make Magazine's top picks: makezine.com/2015/11/04/digital-fabrication-shootout-winners/
Which leaves only the X-Carve and Shapeoko 3 as the affordable, yet generously sized options... and to that I made a video on my thoughts about the two here: ruclips.net/video/71AQBgDkAz4/видео.html
Each have their pros and cons, but I think the Shapeoko is substantially more capable (stronger frame, rails, belts) for just a tiny bit more money.
Hi, the shapeoko xl and xxl sold on carbide.com have the same features and improvements of the new shapeoko 3? Thanks
All Shapeokos share common components, except for the rails (and different sized MDF tables), so the features and designs of each are comparable.
Good tips! Thanks
Hi Winston, Are you familiar with SMW3D's model R7 cnc router? If so, could you tell me why you prefer the gt belts on your shapeoko rather than a threaded lead screw for all of the axis controls? thank you, Tony
I don't necessarily prefer GT2 belting, it's certainly a compromise in some ways, but for things like cost/length, speed, and simplicity I think it does the job quite well. I'm not personally familiar with the R7, but taking a look at it, it seems mechanically solid. Most CNC's follow the same basic recipe, and this one's no different. It'll probably be a little more work, and cost a little more to get running (controller, assembly, etc) but if you want that tiny bit more insurance in the form of super-rigid drive system I wouldn't advise against the machine.
That being said, if you're NOT going to push your machine harder than Richard Cournoyer (@JPL_Richard on Instagram), I'd say save your money.
Thanks for your thoughts Winston.
I've bought and received this model, but they appear to have forgotten the leveling feet. No response from them by email or phone, any ideas on how to deal with that?
Send them a follow up email, drop a post in the forums would be my suggestion. If I had to guess, I'd say they're still busy working through the tail end of black friday orders...
Thanks for the suggestion. In the interest of time saving, do you know if they use common parts I could maybe put in a mcmaster carr order to sidestep having to deal with their support? They should be supporting whatever mistakes they make but if it's going to take a week to get a response and have the parts ship out I'd rather solve it myself if I can, I doubt leveling feet are all that expensive
So are you going to sell the old model then?
I've still got a laser project in the queue for the 2, and I have a few experiments with the 3.0 left to do. I'll reassess my CNC hoarding ways after that point...
Excellent video as always, Winston! Do you still feel pretty locked in/comfortable with the shapeoko 3 (especially given the upgrades for the 2016 models), versus an x-carve? Also, is the version you assembled in this video the XL or the XXL?
I'm presently assessing CNC options (including the Dave Gatton DIY version, though, I feel like the precision of the production models like this shapeoko3 or the x-carve are gonna be way higher; purely speculation though).
Anyway, thanks again for the great videos, and for insight to the above questions. Cheers!
With so many changes that directly address prior complaints/shortcomings, I think the Shapeoko 3 hardware is at a very good point. The fact that Inventables *just* went to a more rigid/custom X-axis extrusion tells me the X-carve is playing catch-up. Software wise, it's a wash, but the bundled software from Carbide is just a "nice to have" at this point. Power users will develop their own workflows.
Also, Edward let me in on some of the "toys" they're developing in-house, and I think the Shapeoko 3 ecosystem is going to get even more interesting going into 2017... The touch probe video they released is just the tip of the iceberg.
TLDR: I'm a happy user, and I think Carbide3D is going to continue to improve the value proposition for new and existing owners.
Also, this is the XL. My table just isn't deep enough for the XXL...
Was this an XL or XXL assembly?
XL, though all the steps are basically the same.
Hello Winston Thanks for your reply!
I'm interested in the XL and I'll be fine with the size, but I'm thinking if I should get an XXL (for future-poofing). I've had a Shapeoko 2 (1m x 1m) before, and had flexing issues on the Y rails, and some deflections from the steel plates.
In the XXL, are the any such issues too? Maybe minor? Is it rigid enough? - If there are, maybe I'll just stick to XL.
In the XL, the X axis is extended. That is the weakest axis, since it's single rail and I've had no issues with it. Extending the Y axis adds a negligible amount of deflection potential. More important thing to do would be to make sure you have a stable, flat place to put it, and also machine level your wasteboard.
Thanks so much! I'll order an XXL soon
I hope they don't release a Shapeoko 4 soon :P or Improved versions
Haha, if there is one, Edward Ford hasn't told me about it... Good luck and have fun in your Maker endeavours.
nice!
Why not ship it already everything installed and ready to go ?
Because then the box would have to be 1x1x0,4 m or larger.
You don't really like that thing, do you? When you get totally tired of it you can send it over here? :D