You should do a whole series of short How to videos like this, basics of setting up an air brush and cleaning, thining/mixing and spraying paints, zinc plating, ect. Would be very informative to the community and could draw in new viewers looking for how to's.
Great vid , you are truly a master of die cast and more! Been following you for a little while now. So glad i found this chnn, thanks for all you do for the hobbie!! Till the next time. Keep em rolling!
A few tips: Don’t use cheap generic inks. They easily fade. Go for the branded inks that last for decades, and not weeks. In document set up, don’t forget to set the page to 300dpi. 👍
This is agreat tutorial, and that's not something that comes off my typey-typey fingers easily. Your sense of humor is brilliantly applied in multiple thin coats.
@@DiecastResurrection dude no apology required!! That made my morning, I’m researching to make waterslide decals for guitar headstock and such, your video was helpful, I’m shopping right now for a printer, there’s so many!!!!! Any recommendations?
Thank you for this video ! I’ve been wondering how you kept the ink from running when you wet the decals before application. Oh, I just wanted to say that your paint jobs are amazing. I’ve never seen anyone take such meticulous effort with their die cast paint.
Heyo. What if you used the Burn tool to get true blacks? It blasts the exposure to negative amounts and you dont have to be as careful as you are with a brush
Best start to finish tutorial for making decals. Do you have any links or suggestions on learning just the Photoshop Element basics for things like this? (vs. full blown in depth training)
Amazing that nobody mentioned the decal printer of choice from the mid 90’s, the Alps MD system.. but specifically the MD-1000 that used dry ink (thermal) cartridges including white and several metallics. I made hundreds of decal sets for model trains, cars, space ships, toys. I always used the clear decal paper and did most of my design work with Corel Draw! and Photoshop 3.0.5 running on Windows 3.1 on top of DOS. I’d scan photos of real prototypes and then vectorize (trace) the graphics by hand. The rulers, guidelines and ability to lay out the decal sheet precisely made Corel Draw! the most efficient way to do it but it also let me adjust the sizes to fine tune, the duplication could be set so the next one is pasted at a specific interval in any direction, making short work of a large decal sheet. The vector images also scale easily for larger or smaller models too. I could have printed that Gulf set with white underlay and full color on top.. but you could also get tricky and print a metallic silver or gold under the colors too. I’d sometimes swap cartridge ID labels to trick the printer into doing other stuff too. It was fun to experiment and create decals that I couldn’t get anywhere else.
@@SAMS1NThe Alps printers can print white ink (dry ink ribbon) and as I mentioned about swapping cartridge labels, I was able to fool the printer driver into printing just yellow onto a white undercoat by putting the white label onto a yellow cartridge and telling the software that it’s white; otherwise if you try printing yellow in full color mode, you’ll get little dots of cyan and magenta too. The dots are unavoidable if you pick a shade of yellow that isn’t the cartridge color.
@@hotwheelsbrothers687I only just saw this question. I’m really not able to make that set. My scanner power supply died in storage and it’s difficult to get modern images into the old PC; I’ve been trying to transfer older image formats from my newer PCs using a 3.5” floppy disc, so image file size is limiting.
An alternative to the pixel replacement in Photoshop (seen around 8.00) being used to create smooth visual components is to convert to a vector image (drawn shape and fill, not individual pixels at all). That however requires a program such as Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw. CD is my (relatively) cheap go-to for creating decals for shield designs on wargames miniatures... (yes, weird but effective).
Thanks mate ... i am going to try this been printing resin models but sometimes decals would be awesome too. loads of uses not just cars , but eye decals etc it certainly help skip the hardest part of them paint jobs
Thanks for the information! Appreciate it For transparent paper if you don't want the color to be transparent would it be possible to print the white background for a decal and then reprint the color on top to get full color?
love the tutorial I learned a lot man, I m having trouble editing as small as 5.5 mm x 2.8 mm for a license plates, i m new to photoshop when I resize image I dont know how to get the pixels right and clear, any tips in how to get a clear image when printing and the actual image,, thanks
Und now we have zee professor Austin zpeaking on zee decals... LOL... you should have a series of vids called "Jimmy's Tech Talk" with all your instructional tips and tricks!
I bought a Ghost white toner printer setup to print CMYK+white. It's complicated and often takes two or three tries to work, but the system is about $600 instead of thousands and clear laser decal paper is less than $1/sheet if you buy 50 or more at a pop. Very cool to see your process. Thanks for sharing!
There are a couple of companies that are making white toner for consumer level laser printers. You basically have to trick the printer into doing it by replacing the black toner with white, but it does work. The best part of this method is it takes a couple hundred dollars (depending on if you have a compatible printer already) to do instead of a few thousand.
Thats the first time ive ever seen lacquer top coat not make the ink run. T.y. for the air drying tip. ALSO, acrylic top doesnt make the ink run at all. Works perfect. Goes great with a final acrylic top coat or future finish over entire car/model as well.
so are the expensive machines just laser printers? Along with the more expensive decal sheeting to match? I am making 1/200 scale Romulan Warbird models, and i want really good decals for them.
All typical home printers use transparent ink or toner. If you have an inkjet printer sealing the decals is mandatory because it's a liquid when it prints and will re-liquify when soaked. I use Testor's Decal Bonder from Hobby Lobby in light coats to seal those. It's ultra thin and works with lacquer and enamel clear coats. If you use a Laser printer sealing the decals isn't necessary because toner is a powder that is heat applied and fused to the paper. But once laser decals are applied you should start with light coats of clear as gooping the topcoat on can damage the decals (cracking the toner or even causing the toner to "halo" - usually the yellow).
You want to use Vectors for the crispiest decals. Download in .SVG format of logos or recreate the logo in a vector program like Illustrator and export as a .SVG. .SVG format can be shrunk to as small or large as you like without compromising quality and detail 👍
Hes using a scanner to scan each face of the vehicle and using Photoshop to fix the decals on the car. Unless there is a car model, you could use blender and load a texture template.
Other than buying the more expensive decals or committing to white paint only, there is one way around part of the problem, and that would be to mask off the car and add an area of white paint to the part of the decal that should be white. In the case of the Gulf decals, you’d have to paint a white circle where the center of the logo is. A lot of extra, painstaking work for something so small. I know you could pull it off Austin, but you’re the exception to the RUclips die cast community from what I’ve seen. An amateur like myself might be able to do it, but would probably have a lot of trial and error involved in the process.
Maaate I'd love this but i understand nothing of like photo shop or nothin because i is dumb on that, dont you have to buy it first??? Ah doesn't matter but if you use white paper instead of the transparent one is it like a stark white or like less transparent i want to find some to use on a transformer on red paint or color right and the red on red well that make it impossible to see really so a real white background is fantastic
I just google a logo, drag it into photoshop and resize it, then your could typeset the racing in helvdtica italic, I've never had problems finding common logos, graphic artist for over 30+ yrs til they closed.
Can i use this process to make any decal? I want to make a speed shop logo using my nickname and put it on a few shop vehicles and the side of a building.
Do you have .Ai if you would like I can show you a bit better way to get a little better decals... also I would be happy to send you any thing you need... Love the videos...
Or get a printer that prints white, they made some older models back in the day that you can still find on ebay. Or you could stencil out the exact size and mask off some white for behind your decal. But it would be tough.
@@DiecastResurrection Thanks for the reply. Also, If I wanted to print a Gulf decal without white background, would it be better just to buy it If dont own one of those expensive printers?
How do you make images more clean and sharp for higher resolution prints ? I printed out vegita and it came out perfect. But then I went to print out other images of him and they all came out blurry. Is it my printer settings? Or is it the lack of clarity or resolution in the original image I selected from google?
Alot of times you need to bring the files into Adobe illustrator and then you can scale them down as a vector image. I dont do that often cause it's a pain but works.
little tip svg makes no difference only dpi makes a difference as the printer is the limiting factor 300dpi ... jpg png svg you wouldn't be able to tell if printed between format carriers
Me, being a sassy bitch, when I have similar projects I literally recreate it in with vector graphics (so the text will be a text field, for as long as I can, either I find the same font, a very similar font that I can easily rater and tweak specific parts, or if it is really bad I just redraw it as a drawing). Assuming I don't find a cleaned up version of them (logos in particular) online, ofc.
Hey its me again, we gotta stop meeting like this. I'm going to try get a car video done for tomorrow.. Have a great day! Later Gator Baiter. 👍🍺🍺
You should do a whole series of short How to videos like this, basics of setting up an air brush and cleaning, thining/mixing and spraying paints, zinc plating, ect. Would be very informative to the community and could draw in new viewers looking for how to's.
“we gotta stop meeting like this” 😜
Great vid , you are truly a master of die cast and more!
Been following you for a little while now. So glad i found this chnn, thanks for all you do for the hobbie!!
Till the next time.
Keep em rolling!
That's exactly how my French sounds!
exactly
Ha !
😂
He did gibberish, but it was a perfect french accent. Laughed out loud at that.
I had such a poor day until I heard the mirth in his voice at the French impression. Bravo.
Your French is spot on if you're from the bush and had a few wobbly pops lol!
You are speaking that funny......always smiling when looking your videos.
Latest and greatest.....never stop doing this.
A few tips:
Don’t use cheap generic inks. They easily fade. Go for the branded inks that last for decades, and not weeks.
In document set up, don’t forget to set the page to 300dpi. 👍
No need for expensive inks. Use a cheap one and use transparent aerosol
And CMYK mode.
This is agreat tutorial, and that's not something that comes off my typey-typey fingers easily.
Your sense of humor is brilliantly applied in multiple thin coats.
The French impression made me spit my coffee on my brand new laptop!! I’ll subscribe
Sorry! 🍻
@@DiecastResurrection dude no apology required!! That made my morning, I’m researching to make waterslide decals for guitar headstock and such, your video was helpful, I’m shopping right now for a printer, there’s so many!!!!! Any recommendations?
That French accent was so accurate tho!! 😂
Greay video, thanks for sharing brother!
the french part had me rollin!!! great video👌
Total Awesomeness…
How about a Clear Coat Video 😳?
Thanks for this Video! Realy helply. hey at 3:50 a German trabant ..coool!! Greetings from Germany!
Happy New Year 2023!
Thanks for this tutorial video.
You are the best...
Inspiring. You achieved a great effect👍. Regards 🙂
Thank you for this video ! I’ve been wondering how you kept the ink from running when you wet the decals before application. Oh, I just wanted to say that your paint jobs are amazing. I’ve never seen anyone take such meticulous effort with their die cast paint.
Thanks for sharing the video.... Great info
Thank you for all the great info!
Heyo. What if you used the Burn tool to get true blacks? It blasts the exposure to negative amounts and you dont have to be as careful as you are with a brush
Best start to finish tutorial for making decals. Do you have any links or suggestions on learning just the Photoshop Element basics for things like this? (vs. full blown in depth training)
Amazing that nobody mentioned the decal printer of choice from the mid 90’s, the Alps MD system.. but specifically the MD-1000 that used dry ink (thermal) cartridges including white and several metallics. I made hundreds of decal sets for model trains, cars, space ships, toys. I always used the clear decal paper and did most of my design work with Corel Draw! and Photoshop 3.0.5 running on Windows 3.1 on top of DOS. I’d scan photos of real prototypes and then vectorize (trace) the graphics by hand. The rulers, guidelines and ability to lay out the decal sheet precisely made Corel Draw! the most efficient way to do it but it also let me adjust the sizes to fine tune, the duplication could be set so the next one is pasted at a specific interval in any direction, making short work of a large decal sheet. The vector images also scale easily for larger or smaller models too. I could have printed that Gulf set with white underlay and full color on top.. but you could also get tricky and print a metallic silver or gold under the colors too. I’d sometimes swap cartridge ID labels to trick the printer into doing other stuff too. It was fun to experiment and create decals that I couldn’t get anywhere else.
Can u make me a custom metal maniacs decal sheet for my Side kick model??
So I guess underlay that's a good idea.... What if I want to put white or yellow on a dark blue How do you suggest tips
@@SAMS1NThe Alps printers can print white ink (dry ink ribbon) and as I mentioned about swapping cartridge labels, I was able to fool the printer driver into printing just yellow onto a white undercoat by putting the white label onto a yellow cartridge and telling the software that it’s white; otherwise if you try printing yellow in full color mode, you’ll get little dots of cyan and magenta too. The dots are unavoidable if you pick a shade of yellow that isn’t the cartridge color.
@@hotwheelsbrothers687I only just saw this question. I’m really not able to make that set. My scanner power supply died in storage and it’s difficult to get modern images into the old PC; I’ve been trying to transfer older image formats from my newer PCs using a 3.5” floppy disc, so image file size is limiting.
An alternative to the pixel replacement in Photoshop (seen around 8.00) being used to create smooth visual components is to convert to a vector image (drawn shape and fill, not individual pixels at all). That however requires a program such as Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw. CD is my (relatively) cheap go-to for creating decals for shield designs on wargames miniatures... (yes, weird but effective).
Thanks mate ... i am going to try this been printing resin models but sometimes decals would be awesome too. loads of uses not just cars , but eye decals etc it certainly help skip the hardest part of them paint jobs
👍 I use Modge Podge Gloss to seal decals with good results.
Thanks for the information! Appreciate it
For transparent paper if you don't want the color to be transparent would it be possible to print the white background for a decal and then reprint the color on top to get full color?
Great video! I just started looking for this kind of info! You also must be a hockey player. Hence the last comment you made in the video. LOL
love the tutorial I learned a lot man, I m having trouble editing as small as 5.5 mm x 2.8 mm for a license plates, i m new to photoshop when I resize image I dont know how to get the pixels right and clear, any tips in how to get a clear image when printing and the actual image,, thanks
Und now we have zee professor Austin zpeaking on zee decals... LOL... you should have a series of vids called "Jimmy's Tech Talk" with all your instructional tips and tricks!
Thanks for the video.
Thank you.
You do good work. Great information.
Excellent work and very well explained.💯👍
Thanks for sharing this. I use GIMP for my editing, but I'm sure your techniques will be easily translated to it.
I bought a Ghost white toner printer setup to print CMYK+white. It's complicated and often takes two or three tries to work, but the system is about $600 instead of thousands and clear laser decal paper is less than $1/sheet if you buy 50 or more at a pop. Very cool to see your process. Thanks for sharing!
There are a couple of companies that are making white toner for consumer level laser printers. You basically have to trick the printer into doing it by replacing the black toner with white, but it does work. The best part of this method is it takes a couple hundred dollars (depending on if you have a compatible printer already) to do instead of a few thousand.
go on bro let me know how i do it ... have two printers yeah ? one with black and one modded?
Cool video
Thats the first time ive ever seen lacquer top coat not make the ink run. T.y. for the air drying tip. ALSO, acrylic top doesnt make the ink run at all. Works perfect. Goes great with a final acrylic top coat or future finish over entire car/model as well.
To save time preping the image, you can always download a png of the original logo if you can find one.
Great information sir
What website did you use to photoshop?
Hairspray will also work as a fixative so the colours won't beed or run.
Awesome video, thanks
so are the expensive machines just laser printers? Along with the more expensive decal sheeting to match? I am making 1/200 scale Romulan Warbird models, and i want really good decals for them.
Awesome tutorial thank you. Do you have a spot you would suggest for purchasing Decals.
Have you checked out Slixx?
Great video... very helpful
You need a special app or program and what kind of printer do you use
What computer program are you using?
All typical home printers use transparent ink or toner. If you have an inkjet printer sealing the decals is mandatory because it's a liquid when it prints and will re-liquify when soaked. I use Testor's Decal Bonder from Hobby Lobby in light coats to seal those. It's ultra thin and works with lacquer and enamel clear coats. If you use a Laser printer sealing the decals isn't necessary because toner is a powder that is heat applied and fused to the paper. But once laser decals are applied you should start with light coats of clear as gooping the topcoat on can damage the decals (cracking the toner or even causing the toner to "halo" - usually the yellow).
What program are you using to do the decals on?
How do you think it would turn out using transparent paper when the car is a dark color and the color would be yellow or white?
There is a Tool on illustrator called image trace, that's the one to convert images in vector
well hell yeah
very informative vid
I use vehicle clear/top coat rattle can to seal the decals. Im not posh enough to own an air brush so I always use car rattle cans.
Bro a airbrush costs about £70
About 10 big cans will cost that.
Get a airbrush bro and compressor on amazon u love it
Your French is impeccable. Haha
What inkjet printer would you recommend for printing decals?
Can you tell me what that function is called your magic wand.
I am new mwt photoshop
Are u using Photoshop to make decals?
Which editing software is that??
You want to use Vectors for the crispiest decals. Download in .SVG format of logos or recreate the logo in a vector program like Illustrator and export as a .SVG. .SVG format can be shrunk to as small or large as you like without compromising quality and detail 👍
So how do I create Decals for my custom models??? I really wanna do a custom set of meta maniacs decal for a Side kick
Hes using a scanner to scan each face of the vehicle and using Photoshop to fix the decals on the car. Unless there is a car model, you could use blender and load a texture template.
What app u use to design it
What photo shop did you use
Hi
What kind of paper should I use to print eyes from inkjet printer for Figures and can you share the link?
Do you put clear coat on the decals after printing or after you stick it to the car?
14:25 Ohhh yesh, very toight… toight like a toiger 😄
Couldn’t you just print a white square on the special paper first and then put the paper back in and print what you want?
I gave it a like because of the French.
Do you have the 442 Police car decals you did ages ago?
The french impression 😂
What tool are you using in photoshop to pull the writing from the image
"So much French on here you can barely find the English: Papier De Le Que Blubblubblub" LOLOL :D Even the French love #Blubs!
Where i find the file for print decals? Thank you. From Italy.
Other than buying the more expensive decals or committing to white paint only, there is one way around part of the problem, and that would be to mask off the car and add an area of white paint to the part of the decal that should be white. In the case of the Gulf decals, you’d have to paint a white circle where the center of the logo is. A lot of extra, painstaking work for something so small. I know you could pull it off Austin, but you’re the exception to the RUclips die cast community from what I’ve seen. An amateur like myself might be able to do it, but would probably have a lot of trial and error involved in the process.
Maaate I'd love this but i understand nothing of like photo shop or nothin because i is dumb on that, dont you have to buy it first??? Ah doesn't matter but if you use white paper instead of the transparent one is it like a stark white or like less transparent i want to find some to use on a transformer on red paint or color right and the red on red well that make it impossible to see really so a real white background is fantastic
You should really be doing this on Adobe illustrator using vector drawings
Hi , can normal inkjet printer print decals paper ?
How to make white ink decals?????
i want to make decals for a lego can this video help?
I use Testors clear matte for my decals and no running so far.
I just google a logo, drag it into photoshop and resize it, then your could typeset the racing in helvdtica italic, I've never had problems finding common logos, graphic artist for over 30+ yrs til they closed.
Can i use this process to make any decal? I want to make a speed shop logo using my nickname and put it on a few shop vehicles and the side of a building.
Do you have .Ai if you would like I can show you a bit better way to get a little better decals... also I would be happy to send you any thing you need... Love the videos...
Are you related to "TheCrafsMan"?? I have a sneaky suspicion you is!😉
But then how can you use decals on color not white?
I usually cut my decal paper down to 89mmx127mm, I get 4 pieces from 1 A4 sheet.
The OKI Pro8432WT is a white toner printer,, but its hideously expensive new.
There are likely others as well.
So If you want decals for colored backgrounds you need to buy them?
Or get a printer that prints white, they made some older models back in the day that you can still find on ebay. Or you could stencil out the exact size and mask off some white for behind your decal. But it would be tough.
@@DiecastResurrection Thanks for the reply. Also, If I wanted to print a Gulf decal without white background, would it be better just to buy it If dont own one of those expensive printers?
How do you make images more clean and sharp for higher resolution prints ? I printed out vegita and it came out perfect. But then I went to print out other images of him and they all came out blurry. Is it my printer settings? Or is it the lack of clarity or resolution in the original image I selected from google?
Alot of times you need to bring the files into Adobe illustrator and then you can scale them down as a vector image. I dont do that often cause it's a pain but works.
@@DiecastResurrection is there any other way to do this without doing that ? Or is that the best way to get the best resolution
Little tip, Look for logos that save as .SVG on Google.
little tip svg makes no difference only dpi makes a difference as the printer is the limiting factor 300dpi ... jpg png svg you wouldn't be able to tell if printed between format carriers
I know that FNSKU anywhere
👍
That's a lot of work that could have been done in Inkscape.
Something as simple as the matchbox logo you should just be able to google the logo
with that logo being from the 80's it's not really available on google.
Clearly, I saw right through your transparent decals.
Dang, I am funny... (said NO ONE EVER)
Me, being a sassy bitch, when I have similar projects I literally recreate it in with vector graphics (so the text will be a text field, for as long as I can, either I find the same font, a very similar font that I can easily rater and tweak specific parts, or if it is really bad I just redraw it as a drawing). Assuming I don't find a cleaned up version of them (logos in particular) online, ofc.
Aren't Trademark/Copyright laws a problem? Unless of course they are not being sold.
Vern-Yay not vern'errr 😂
Third
Reich :P
You could really do some damage wearing those black gloves...................
first