How To Make Wooden Screws
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- I experiment with making wooden #screw threads using a tap and die for a leg vise for my #roubo style #workbench. Get 10% off with this link! squarespace.com... Thanks to squarespace for sponsoring this video!
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Dont tap the leg itself. Tap a "nut" in a seperats piece of wood and then inlay it into thd leg. That way if it isnt straight or breaks over the years its easy to replace. Just an idea
To keep your tap square, try mounting it in your drill press (unplugged) then turning and pressing down slowly.
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Check out www.bealltool.com/products/threading/threaders.php for a different product to make threads. I believe tearout is less of an issue (and oiling is not needed) when using this router-based method.
if you increase the spindle speed and 'ride the bevel' of your gouges, you'll cut the wood fibres instead of tear them and get little to no tear out on your pieces. Hope this helps.
Great effort. I liked how the idea evolved to the second screw which is obviously a lot more practical.
Love your videos and the approach.
Thanks for sharing your ideas
Greetings from Athens, Greece.
I believe a small chamfer on the end would help your die start easier and square.
Dang that's a good idea!
Yes! And also hold a square up to the shaft from two points, 90 degrees from each other to make sure you're vertical on both axis as you are twisting it in. Once it's started you don't need the squares anymore, it will follow the hole.
Better idea, if you have the tools available... start the tap for the female threading on a drill press. Center up your work using a straight drill bit or just leave it in place right after drilling. Then, using the chuck to help keep you on center and the spindle advance to apply pressure, turn the tap to produce your threads. You can get a helper to turn the tap if you are having problems coordinating. I highly recommend that you cut your threads after the mineral oil soak or use some means to stabilize your wood.
After the threads are cut, you can further stabilize them or even repair minor damage by soaking the threads with thin superglue, and then cutting the threads again to clean it back up. This also applies to the threads on the dowel!
As for making for faster cutting down of that massive chunk of wood for your vise screw, look up how to do a "stop cut" on your table saw. This can greatly assist you in saving time and reducing frustrations in the shop.
0:22 "Something a touch undersized because it is a small space, and it will be rectangular, and not a SQUARESPACE". lol
2:18 If only you had a vice to hold the dowel as you were turnin... oh, right. Nevermind.
Start cutter on drill press to get perfect 90* (remove handle from cutter and put i to chack)
Thanks for sharing that, well done!
You probably know by now, but, you could have made a large barrel long nut, screwed it on and drilled a hole in it for your handle..
To keep the threads straight in your hole, pull the handle out of the Tap, and drill a hole that diameter in a block of wood, and a larger hole inset in the bottom the diameter of the threading tool, and drop it over the tap, clamp it to the surface you are tapping/drilling, and, then start tapping.. Get at least 3-4 threads, then, you can remove your block with a hole the diameter of the shaft to keep it straight and flat to the surface as it goes down into the hole, and a larger diameter for going over the actual male tap threads until the tap gets 3-4 threads in and you are straight... May leave the jig on for 4-5 threads, just in case it wanders.. You will be able to tell after doing one or two..
Just found your channel looking at thread making.. Hope all is well with you. I see you are still making videos.. Keep it up!! Good Luck!
very cool. especially considering for the same price as a tap and die set, you can buy the metal screw and nut to make your own vice. but this way you can make as many screws and nuts as you would want. you should try and make your own tap and die and see how they compare with the purchased set
Thanks for an interesting video,! So, which oil do you use, which ones can be used to soak the tree, or what other oil? ))
That's awesome! I also love experimenting. I should loan you my 2-1/2" Threading Tool. Love your channel!
Thank you! That would be pretty awesome. 🙂
I couldn’t remember if I commented back or not. If you want to email me so I can get your shipping address, I’ll send it over. Also, we’d like to send you one of our Thor’s Hammer Woodworking Mallets.
Hi. Can you guide me to somewhere that sells die and taps above 1” as I can’t find anything over 1” (grizzly) online.
!;-)
Hi Linn & Family, It's going to be an awesome work bench, in a really nice space. You could make a square block 2 or 3 inches tall, with a hole the outside diameter of your tap to use as guide for starting tap, remove when tap is fully engaged in your work piece, the leg. You could cut a 90 deg. Notch in a square piece of wood for X, Y reference to keep tap straight. Really enjoyable channel, Thank you for all your time and effort making videos. Watching in Willamina, OR, all the best, C.
If you mount the hole threading tap in your drill press and clamp the work piece,
the drill press will keep the tap from wandering ..
To keep the female thread maker in square u can use the male thread maker, what do i mean, take the table/bench leg and clamp the male thread maker to the leg, the female should go inside in square, at least thats the way how i did it with metal thread cutters, as much that could see you need just to turn the male thread maker upside down
That thread box makes to many TPI the vice will be slow to adjust. But I’m tempted to buy one to make a lamp with a bolt through it that turns it on and off.
When tapping a hole straight, get it started on a drill press then finish it in a vise. Worked great for me tapping a cast iron handwheel.
You should put your tap in the drill press to keep it square to start. Turn it by hand, and it will be pretty square. Once 1 or 2 threads are cut the tap will follow those and you'll be good.
Hi. You spoke about it being a challenge keeping the female threading flat and square. Could you not use the die or another pretreated piece or bolt to clamped to the top of the hole to guide your tap down and keep level for the initial section?
Nice work on making the threads on the wooden bench vise Linn! Thanks for sharing the video with us.👌👍😎JP
I've heard of wooden gears on ships made with iron wood. I imagine that would also work well for screws. Thanks for sharing!
I bet it would be cool to use ironwood!
The woodwrights shop show on PBS has an episode on how to make the screw cutter box. Its online so you can stream it...its fascinating...to me at least.
I have the 3/4" thread box. The screws I made before weren't soaked in oil, and I had some tear out. That's a great tip. Thanks
Makes a big difference!
I watch a wagon wheel maker who has a channel and he uses a metal lathe. A metal lathe has a stationary cutter that moves parallel to the dowel you are cutting so you get a perfectly sized dowel, Seem like you could rig up something to do the same on a wood lathe.
The screw-driven tool holder on a metal lathe is pretty much a basic necessity where so much of the final work form needs to be equidistant from the work center (which is the case w/Linn's dowel/screw). And it would be an interesting project to add to a metal lathe & be used to cut the threads. But a simple technique for uniform dowel diameter would be to stop the lathe motor & clamp a straight edge close to the nearly complete dowel for reference, then pencil-mark high locations to be turned down, using calipers for accuracy & straight edge for visual identification of areas of concern. If really trying to get close tolerance, use sandpaper to fair out the last few thousandths.
@@EngineerMikeF I only have a few hours on a wood lathe and none on a metal one but when watching the guy do spokes and hubs out of wood on a metal lathe it seeded to me wood lathes should have the same sort of jigs to do perfect dimensional stuff. should be prtty easy to rig something up that would do the job
es gibt bessere schneideisen mit längere führung zu kaufen sind aber auch sehr viel teuerer, Französiche eisen haben eine längere führung
You could use a Premade board with a straight hole and thread inside clamped onto the leg as a guide for the hole in the leg
would you be able to do the "nut" portion in the leg on the drill press? not running it under power but just using that to keep it square and doing it manually. Very cool project :)
I do this when tapping metal all the time, except in a mill, but same principle. Works great. Even if you just clamp the piece to the table when you drill it, and then stick a center or small drill in the chuck as a visual guide. Also, at least for metal threading, it's the first 2-3 turns that decide if you go square or not, once it gets started there is basically no turning. Might be different for wood though.
it's a lot easier to use the thread box if you hold the workpiece in a vise. Just a tip.
Making yourself is much more fun.
The results are impressive.
Is it fair, or reasonable, to ask a piece of wood to behave like a piece of steel?
Good project Linn.
Nice to see a different variation to wood thread screws.
this is not awesome, it is only the shortcut about the wood work. poor talk is well
Sağol, ay Ağbaci, sən çox gözəl və qabiliyyətli Ustadsan! Öpdüm səni! - Like from AZE! ))
Your accent sounds so Swedish.. are you Swedish?
Great
Muito obrigado
Kind of a vinegar smell eh? When we cut it on the sawmill it makes me think of bbq sauce!
Need a Tap and Die ~ thread on dowels aren’t made the way I first thought ~ it’s a WAY MORE 😎 METHOD!!
Yep, that's red oak. It smells like "puppy poop" when you turn or saw it.
What thickness are wood doors?
Good on ya! Nice work. Enjoyed it.
Not a lot of know-how on my end, but just wondering... Would it be easier to make a large "nut" that you could glue on to the end of the first rod you made to give it more strength? Seems like the threads would give it plenty of surface area for strength and you'd end up with something similar but with less overall effort than using the lathe the whole time. Great work!
That would be a good idea if you wanted to have a thread that was "cut all the way to the end" ? With the second one, there was an uncut area where the cutter was prevented from going further because of the handle - sounds a great idea that you have !
Great video! I've used these taps & dies for varies projects. I ended up making a L-shaped block of wood for taping the holes with just enough clearance for the tap in the cutout of the L-shape. Then I drilled a hole the size of the tap shaft. This allows me to clamp the wood square to my work to make sure I get it going straight in the hole. Once you get it started and going straight, you can take off the block and finish up the hole. I hope this makes sense and helps!
Nice tip!
Amazon does not have thread box.
Vices normally have trapezoidal (acme) thread.. The thread you are producing looks to be finer and a different profile. I made a moxon vice with metric thread and it’s a pain needing lots of turns to move the chop. I think trapezoidal threads have other advantages such as less likely to bind or get blocked up with sawdust. It looks like you are having fun though. However, something like an important workbench vice probably needs the real McCoy.
Another interesting video.
How many woodworkers are there?
Linn, take a hint from the machinists. Use your drill press to square up the wood tap to get straight threads. Look around on RUclips for ABOM79, Turn Wright Machine, or Keith Rucker's channels. They show how to tap holes with a tap guide. Thanks for the video. Jon
Good job, i am from indonesian❤
Hi, thank you for sharing... this was brilliant. Could you suggest me a brand name for the kind of mineral oil based wax that you're talking about? I usually use Protectool wax or Renaissance. Thanks again...
I would go to a metal workshop and ask if I can borrow tools for the coarsest tread the have.
I have an old bench where the outer spindle diameter is about 70mm or 2 6/8.
The used wood is likely hornbeam, I guess oak is to coarse to hold the tread really long.
Interesting explication.I don't know what could I do with a Lady Carpenter. AMAZING
If the screw rod was made out of one solid piece like you've made, you should have blended out the end of thread to the left over chunk. The stress will most likely be at the hard edge made by that screw and the chunk meet.
If say yes to your design, then it's reasonable to have those two separately and glue them together. Less material, less work, more meaningful.
Darbin - fascinating - I'd love to see the plans for the leg vise - I am considering making a should vise for my new to me Sjobergs bench, and have to be DIY for saving $$$. Thanks.
Hi. You are a very talented young lady. Can't wait to see the finished vice. 👍❤..
Thanks for sharing!
🖒🖒🙌🙌🌷
Better than porno!!!
Would love to know what you were smelling with the red oak. That’s my most used species of wood and haven’t noticed a weird smell.
Also this is my first video from your channel. Will definitely be watching more!
I wonder if you soaked the rod after threading in Ethylene Glycol (anti-freeze) if it would soak in and lock the wood fibers and result in better wear resistance. I know in the 1800's and early 1900's they used walnut on a lot of wooden bearings on the threshers and farm equipment of that day. That doesn't mean in and of itself that it would be a good choice for threading. Wonder how Ash would do? Just thinking out loud. Thought provoking video and I'm dusting off the old like button now.
Should have use bee wax instead of oil. It works better. Otherwise you did a great job. Good work.
Benchcrafted
is this how they made it in the old days?
Love the large screws. Definitely want to make one for a wooden vise. Maybe revisit this with a jig to cut threads with a 60 or 90 degree router bit, and maybe another jig with a 90 double beveled bit for the inside of bolt. Maybe attaching it to a metal screw to space properly. The Beale tool and most jigs don’t go bigger than 1.5” diameter.
Try to see this video (it's in Italian, but you can just watch it). The man shows how to make wooden broomsticks... This is useful fo create a regular bar for the screw
I'm glad I found this video. For some reason, other videos about making wooden threads have to make it so complicated instead of using a tap and die.
That funky smell is one of the reasons red oak isn't used in wine and spirit barrels. It's also not as water tight as white oak.
experiment..fail...rinse...repeat....success. Also, lathe a taper on the end.
A dual axis carriage would make getting a consistent diameter trivial. Might be a good project in the future, although making one out of (just) wood that doesn't flex too much in the middle might be a bit difficult.
I would seriously consider a course or other instruction on lathe work. You are scraping rather than cutting.
and that is exactly what you do with a carbide cutter.
@@darbinorvar you tell him Linn!
@@darbinorvar Sorry, I am in awe of all you do but the tool is a cutter not a scraper, doesn't matter what it is made of. Have you tried a skew chisel to finish rounding? I love all your videos.
@@darbinorvar Yes, if you use Carbide tools (eg www.easywoodtools.com/) they DO work as scrapers, but the roughing GOUGE you were using works in a different way to cut the fibres. Looking at some basic instruction videos would be helpful to learn the correct positioning of the gouge.
@@donjohnson24 That's what I mean and the spindle gouge.
Interesting to see how the lady is working it out.
I was actually thinking this video was making the thread by hand, not by a cutter..
I had read that it can be done with wrapped around wet dyed thin rope...but this is interesting too...
When starting to tap the the internal thread, use a square to keep the tap up right. Also in stead of wasting all that wood, you could have tapped out a block for the end and glued it on. But a nice job anyway. Best regards Geoff Maddison UK.
I think I saw someone mention using the drill poles to make sure it's perpendicular. I would also recommend something like lignum vita as the nut since it wears well.
Maybe use the drill press to tap the next hole. Tap the hole into a piece that is too thick so that you can chamfer the edge. Once your threads are in, thin the piece down until the lip of the hole is square with the face of the piece of wood.
Drill the hole for the nut on the lethe, then support the die with the tail stock centra, slowly turn the nut while pushing on the tail stock to start the die, this will keep you die squire while you genterly tread the nut. great project liking the treaded bar
I wonder if there is a way to put the threading tool into the drill-press chuck to make it go more straight, and just have the drill press on a super low rpm, or still feed by hand by rotating the chuck manually.
consider sharpening the knifes in your threadbox to the best possible sharpness!!
I really wanted to know how to make it. Thank you for sharing
Absolutely brilliant… well done mate 👍
Just a thought on when you go to tap the hole in the leg...you could possibly make a template or key for the tap out of 3/4 material...plywood,a small piece of hard wood,clamp it to the leg and then proceed with tapping it all while the key should keep it straight and help with wandering...just a thought. Liked the video!
After threading the wood, do you think by soaking it in mineral oil will helps for smoother screw experience without the squeaky sound as it would if it's dry?
Have you considered a stop nut on your lathe cutter that would rest against the tool rest to get a set and repeatable depth?
,👍👍👍 thanks sis. I like you
You'll be throwing your steel nut and bolts away! lol.
Where’d you get the tap and die?
There is a link in the description.
Where did you get the tap and die set?
links are in the description.
Very informative. I agree with you about the appeal of wooden screws. Would love to see the rest of the build. Thanks!
Класс! Девушка-столяр. Подпишусь)
What type of hole was in your tap? Or was the shaft fixed to it?
Increase the length of the lever of that thread maker,it will increase the torque,so you can easily done your work,nice video,
I love watching a lady working with wood and building things keep up the wonderful videos.
I’ve always wanted to try this. Good stuff.
I do not know what it is, but I love your videos better than anyone else. I guess it is because your voice and demeanor is very soothing and you make the subject your speaking so fascinating. Keep up the great work Linn. Two thumbs up!
Thank you so much!
You are a wonderful woodworker!
I loved the presentation of the project, where you initially run us through the background ! The illustrations of the different types of vise that you considered, and your ultimate choice of a leg vise. Some useful advice, well illustrated, to soak the wood in mineral oil - was that something you know from experience or was it some new research ? It certainly worked a treat ! Presumably those of us not as accurate as yourself could deliberately make it longer in order to cut off a damaged end where we have struggled to get the thread going ? That is a fairly hefty handle on your second attempt, and it will be interesting to see if you find that it is necessary, or maybe could be a bit smaller ! A great asset of your videos is that you keep reminding us that woodworkers CAN and perhaps SHOULD be tidy - I loved that vacuum hose gathering all of the cuttings when you made the nut ! As always, the whole production of the video made it easy and rewarding to enjoy the whole project - far too often we are left wondering during videos on other channels, what actually IS going on ! And again you have mixed narrative and live action to convey where you're at. Good lateral thinking to innovate as you went along ! Yes, your videos and your projects certainly are enjoyable ! Hopefully there is to be a "part 2" where you assemble the vise onto the bench ? Thanks !
Hy your ..... String girl
You are amazing!
Totally awesome video thank you
So many reasons to watch all your videos!