What type of shaver do you use for the pegs? I have a 4/4 violin peg shaver, but I feel like they're too skinny to be used in a headstock, rather than pegbox, being only 8mm at the base. Cello pegs seem like they'd be too big at nearly twice the size. I reckon 9 or 10 mm at the base would be good, like the saz pegs I've bought are, but that requires a shaver for viola pegs, which is damn near impossible to find for at a decent price. With my dad's help, I suppose I could work out a solution to use with his lathe, as that's how I turn them down to the base's diameter.
@@StevDoesBigJumps I’ve got a brass shaver I got in trade along with a reamer with three different size holes I’m assuming for 4/4, 3/4, and 1/2, though I’ve not measured to see what the diameters are.
@@NoahCline Hmm, I see, is it for violin pegs specifically? The fourths sizings are instrument dependent, a violin in 4/4 and viola in 4/4 differ in size.
Smaller could be used. If the diameter is smaller, still having a 1:1 ratio, then the string being tuned may require more of a turn to tighten or loosen a half-step or more compared to one with a larger diameter, but would provide finer tuning with the smaller diameter. I couldn’t imagine using friction pegs on an electric guitar with steel strings. While I have seen it done on some banjos with light gauge steel, you would have a hard time with tuning because of the tension, let alone keeping the peg in place once seated. While the violin family usually have steel strings and ebony friction pegs for the most part, the pegbox design provides two bearing surfaces for the pegs on either side of the string where it’s wound on, providing greater frictional resistance compared to one surface with most flat pegheads. And, most still have fine tuners on the tailpiece to aid in finer tuning.
Thanks. I do struggle a bit with friction pegs. I noticed you don’t appear to have the string tight onto the head, I thought having the string tight onto the head helped to keep string tension and made tuning easier. Am I just confused?. Also I find a bit of chalk on the pegs helps. Steve
I try to get the string to wrap on the peg and be close to the peghead face as you mention, but as long as the string isn’t coming off at or around the very end, and the break angle over the nut is enough that the strings don’t rattle/buzz in the slots, it should be ok. The first and second strings were fairly close as they stretch more, but the third and fourth strings don’t stretch as much and I didn’t allow for more slack in the strings when putting them on. I’ve also had others say it’s better for the fifth string to wind on the peg going towards the button as it helps create more tension on the peg to hold it in place, but it also creates more angle going to the pip. I tend to wind the other way, somewhat centered around the string hole, and there’s usually still an angle, just not as extreme. I had just put the strings on and while they had mostly settled in, I hadn’t tuned it up to E, so the strings would probably stretch more and room would be needed for that above the face of the peghead. I’ve heard of people using chalk or a combination of that and bar soap.
Thanks Noah. I use hillpeg compound and a bit of chalk too. Still listening to your mountain banjo album and still playing my mountain banjo. There’s sort of primitive beauty to the mountain or gourd banjo. Your openness and hard work is appreciated
I usually start with a piece of wood 2 5/8” x 3/4” x 1/2”. I then cut a profile out of the shaft and the button, and then rough turn the shaft on the belt sander until it’s mostly round and I can get it started in the shaping block, and then shape it. I then shape the button with the sander until I have it the shape I want. Lightly sanding the edges of the button, and some sanding on the shaft after drilling the string hole.
Thanks!! Thanks also for the close-up of your 5th string installation detail.
Thank you, Noah. SOMEDAY, I'm going to "graduate" to an old-style fretless skinhead. I'll keep this in mind.
I have always been doing that last method, but i will have to try the first one.
Love that guitar! In working on some wood pegs for my cigar box guitar
Perfect!
What type of shaver do you use for the pegs? I have a 4/4 violin peg shaver, but I feel like they're too skinny to be used in a headstock, rather than pegbox, being only 8mm at the base. Cello pegs seem like they'd be too big at nearly twice the size. I reckon 9 or 10 mm at the base would be good, like the saz pegs I've bought are, but that requires a shaver for viola pegs, which is damn near impossible to find for at a decent price.
With my dad's help, I suppose I could work out a solution to use with his lathe, as that's how I turn them down to the base's diameter.
@@StevDoesBigJumps I’ve got a brass shaver I got in trade along with a reamer with three different size holes I’m assuming for 4/4, 3/4, and 1/2, though I’ve not measured to see what the diameters are.
@@NoahCline Hmm, I see, is it for violin pegs specifically?
The fourths sizings are instrument dependent, a violin in 4/4 and viola in 4/4 differ in size.
I understand, I meant for violin.
@Noah Cline
How about using smaller friction pegs?
And how about using them on electric guitar?
Smaller could be used. If the diameter is smaller, still having a 1:1 ratio, then the string being tuned may require more of a turn to tighten or loosen a half-step or more compared to one with a larger diameter, but would provide finer tuning with the smaller diameter.
I couldn’t imagine using friction pegs on an electric guitar with steel strings. While I have seen it done on some banjos with light gauge steel, you would have a hard time with tuning because of the tension, let alone keeping the peg in place once seated. While the violin family usually have steel strings and ebony friction pegs for the most part, the pegbox design provides two bearing surfaces for the pegs on either side of the string where it’s wound on, providing greater frictional resistance compared to one surface with most flat pegheads. And, most still have fine tuners on the tailpiece to aid in finer tuning.
Thanks. I do struggle a bit with friction pegs. I noticed you don’t appear to have the string tight onto the head, I thought having the string tight onto the head helped to keep string tension and made tuning easier. Am I just confused?. Also I find a bit of chalk on the pegs helps. Steve
I try to get the string to wrap on the peg and be close to the peghead face as you mention, but as long as the string isn’t coming off at or around the very end, and the break angle over the nut is enough that the strings don’t rattle/buzz in the slots, it should be ok. The first and second strings were fairly close as they stretch more, but the third and fourth strings don’t stretch as much and I didn’t allow for more slack in the strings when putting them on.
I’ve also had others say it’s better for the fifth string to wind on the peg going towards the button as it helps create more tension on the peg to hold it in place, but it also creates more angle going to the pip. I tend to wind the other way, somewhat centered around the string hole, and there’s usually still an angle, just not as extreme. I had just put the strings on and while they had mostly settled in, I hadn’t tuned it up to E, so the strings would probably stretch more and room would be needed for that above the face of the peghead. I’ve heard of people using chalk or a combination of that and bar soap.
Thanks Noah. I use hillpeg compound and a bit of chalk too. Still listening to your mountain banjo album and still playing my mountain banjo. There’s sort of primitive beauty to the mountain or gourd banjo. Your openness and hard work is appreciated
Thanks! Means a lot.
How do you make friction pegs?
I usually start with a piece of wood 2 5/8” x 3/4” x 1/2”. I then cut a profile out of the shaft and the button, and then rough turn the shaft on the belt sander until it’s mostly round and I can get it started in the shaping block, and then shape it. I then shape the button with the sander until I have it the shape I want. Lightly sanding the edges of the button, and some sanding on the shaft after drilling the string hole.
what strings are you using on that banjo?
Aquila Nylgut Minstrels
@@NoahCline thanks!