Thank you for taking the time to make these documentaries! Not only is this fascinating, but this is great reference material should I ever need to do this. I'm sure others feel the same as well.
That sprag clutch is amazing.. iv always wondered how that worked. That’s really something that all stays together..iv seen the tractor freewheel then grab abruptly on rough terrain, and now after seeing whats inside makes me want to reduce the people i let run the tractor lol
@@ThatOliverGuyChris hahaha i know exactly how you feel. The problem is I’m only 31. So at the current rate I’m going by the time i am 55 I’ll be so bad at sharing no one will even like me lol
Thank you for taking the time to film this and all of these awesome videos you do. I know it has to be somewhat frustrating always making sure the camera is in the right spot, and trying to get a snap ring off and the cameras in the way. And then when your light died right when the snap ring came off that would have been enough to make me throw something haha.. so I’m sure i speak for everyone here when i say thanks, we really appreciate the videos and you.
Despite everything looking good, there was bit of sludgy residue in the bottom of the case, so I'm glad it's going to be thoroughly cleaned. I've already spent more time washing parts than it took me to film this.
so awesome that you showed the insides of this unit. Thank you! My friend is one of, if not the, best Oliver mechanics in western PA. He rebuilt my hydrapower unit on my 1650 last winter. He doesn't charge me for labor, but the parts were $2200, and a couple parts were good used ones, because, like you said, some are no longer available new. It ain't cheap, but at least I know my hydrapower is right.
These are so informative, love the detail! Thank you for taking the time to document this kind of stuff! Been waiting for something on the purple one, hoping this is the begining ! Thank you sir
I like how they made it modular, so that you could have the two speed or not, and so you could repair it fairly easily, compared to some tractors that would require a complete split to even get at it. Mechanic-friendly.
I'd say the biggest short coming they had was being unitized, they didn't hold a great amount of oil. If guys didn't check them regularly, a small leak added up in a hurry.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Yeah…I guess you’d have seen that quite a few times. A guy I went to school with had a Versatile tractor that he grafted an N14 into, since the smaller Cummins blew in it, and he had the N14 and 18 speed out of a wrecked Kenworth just sitting there. At full load the diffs ran hot, so he basically created sumps hanging on the back of the housings so they had more oil to work with. He was definitely the inventor type. He said it would have been really easy with those Rockwell diffs with the pump and filter, because he could just plumb in a tank off the side.
I can just picture a hay wagon with ten or fifteen big round bales on it ruining your day after you crested a hill. Extreme pucker factor right there.😯😳
I replaced the hydro in my 1850 with a 3 speed, love it. The spague clutch wouldn’t hold coming from direct to under. What would cause that? I presume just wear and tear.
Yep. There's little drag strips in there that makes sure the wedges lean when they are supposed to. Those strips break and sometimes the sprag will grab, sometimes it won't. Too thick of oil can cause that problem, but on a 2 speed it usually needs a new sprag. I was just doing some looking and the 2 speed sprag is up to $500. Ouch!
Last weekend I was going through the hydra-power on my 1550 and discovered some deep grooves on the input shaft. Having a hard time tracking down a replacement. Any suggestions on some good salvage yards? Thanks for all your helpful videos!
Maibach Tractor, Smitty's in Dalton, Ohio. Welters farm supply in Missouri. Svehlak tractor in texas. Googling any of those names should get you their contact info
Hi Chris, I'm trying to find a seal kit and a sprag clutch for an early 1650 diesel. Not having much luck so far. Could you recommend a source, please?
The seal kit is part 165475AS and the sprag is 30-309 9539. Ag Parts First has both on their website. agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerce.com/hydra-power-seal-kit-165475as/ agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerce.com/hydra-power-sprag-clutch-30-3099539/
Nice Job Chris, I wish I had waited for your video before I did my HydraPower, would have saved me doing it over. I do not remember the snap ring on the end of the output shaft, hmmm?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I pulled the hydrapower and took it back apart, I had missed the snap ring. There doesn't appear to be any damage, so I am going back together.
Glad to hear there wasn't damage. It can't go too far forward before it hits the input shaft. The biggest problem would be if you had the early output shaft that depends on that snap ring to hold bearing pre load.
Are those similar to the 3 speed on a 9170 Deutz Allis? They use a white rear end. We were applying nh3 and tractor stoped. Delear replaced the assembly, it chucked parts out the case.
Somewhat similar. The case and side cover are almost the same, some of the guts are similar, and then there's the extra parts needed to get the 3rd speed.
If the shift knob is on the lower part of the dash, it's the 2 speed hydra power drive. If the shift knob is next to the throttle then it is a 3 speed over/under. The 3 speed didn't come out until late 67, and 1750s didn't get it as an option until 68.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you Chris,,,,, I'll have to look. I thought for sure it was a 1968,,, it's just really nice straight tractor the hour meter is orginal with 3800 hours on it.. runs like a dream !!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks thats what i figured. the repair book said you can change the clutch without removing the engine but i must have read it wrong
Early 1900s didn't come with a hydra power, and it was an option later on. If it doesn't have hydra power, then you can change the clutch without pulling the engine.
@ThatOliverGuyChris I'm buying a junk 1800 with a hydra power, I have an 1800 A gas, not original, no power shift. Would you bother putting the hydra power in the working tractor?
Hey Is there a difference in the hydra power that was used in the 1600 compared to one like in an 1800 or 1850? I’m looking at a 1600 that was parked due to a leak from the hydra power but I don’t know how much it was run low in oil so if it can’t be fixed and I need to find another one would one from a bigger tractor work?
The input shaft is different on a 1600, so if you want to swap a complete unit you need to find one from a 1550, 1555, 1600 or 1650. You could swap the input shaft, taking the shaft out of the 1600 unit and putting it in the one from the 1800 or 1850.
Thanks for the information. From what I was told the tractor was drove to the shed that it’s parked in but to get it there they had to keep a bucket of oil on the side cause it was leaking from the bell housing so I’m not sure how much damage it could possibly have done if they run it low in fluid
@@jasondagenhart1253 they're pretty tough units. It depends on how low and how hard they worked it. When the oil gets low enough it won't go into direct drive because it can't generate enough pressure. So if it got low enough where the pressure was dropping off and they were working it, the clutch pack is probably toast. There could be gear damage, bearing damage, or if they kept some oil in it, it could be fine. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil. They used automatic transmission fluid, and that will get a burnt smell to it and turn brown when things are slipping inside. If it's red, that could be a good sign, but if they were feeding it oil all the time it might look fresher than it really is.
Ok thanks I will check it. As long as a shaft or gear isn’t messed up it doesn’t seem to be that big of a job to fix just keep things clean and take your time.
The direct shaft in the 2255 was a way to opt out of the 3 speed. It used the same case to give bearing support to the shaft, but had a blank side cover.
Very interested. I’d love to rebuild one myself but I’d want somebody that knows looking over my shoulder. I grew up with Oliver’s on the farm 1800 gas 2 speed , 1550 diesel 2 spreed, 1850 diesel 2 speed, 77 gas, 1950T 3 speed, White 2 -85, 2-150, 2-155. My dad sold the farm 20 years ago when I came of age he couldn’t farm without me and he didn’t think that he could afford to pay me. Dad kept the white 2-85 and sold all of the Oliver’s. My old Oliver heart missed them tractors so a few months ago I bought a beautiful restored 1650 3speed and now I want buy a 2nd oliver with FWA. I or we never took a hydropower apart we’d pull the engine unbolt the hydropower and take them to the dealer for a rebuild. If you have a good hoist it’s not hard to get an engine out.
I'm new to your videos, but have looked at several already! Many thanks for the good reference and sharing your knowledge base. Have you ever swapped out a hydra power drive for the over/under unit? I'm thinking about doing that with our 1800A.
Yes it is. I've been having trouble getting a good match for the purple. I think I have something now, just got to get some mixed up. I plan on starting to shoot paint this coming week. I'm going to get all the white parts painted first.
Good morning Chris happy Sunday! Iv been looking forward to this one, mine is in need some TLC. Also, random question lol bur your northstar hot water pressure washer, is that electric or gas? I have the gas one but was looking into the electric one and wasnt sure if it had the power the gas does. Do you like it ?
Mine is electric, and I love it. It's 220, 5hp, so you can't plug it in just anywhere. They way I figured it, you have to be near a water source to use it, so chances are you're near electricity as well, so why mess with having a gas engine to maintain and fight with? I'd have to look up to see if the electric has less psi than the gas powered version, but this one takes just about anything off, especially once the water is hot.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you thats all I needed to hear. If it works good in your application and you love it, it will be good for what i want it for too. Thanks!
The only problem I have had with it... it started tripping the built in GFI. First time it was under warranty, so I let someone else fix it. Second time I dug into it. The capacitor housing on the burner motor is on the bottom side of the motor, and water will eventually get in there, and once it gets to the level of the wires connected to the capacitor, ground fault! I drilled a little drain hole in that capacitor housing and problem solved.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris sounds like they share issues. The gasoline one has a 12V burner motor, and I have had all sorts of trouble with water getting into that including ruining the ignition box on the burner it self
It's sorta like an automatic transmission(but uses normal gears instead of planetary gears). I watch Precision Transmissions youtube channel and the way that guy can rip down a gm 4L60 or the likes is something to be hold(It's satisfying). He likes to use Scotchbrite to refinish the pump surfaces. I couldn't help to wonder if you found an automatic transmission that could fit in the area where the hydrapower lives, if you could have an Oliver(or White) with limited autoshift abilities.
I've never tried, but I bet there is something out there that would fit. Oliver did offer a the revers-o-torq in the industrial versions of the tractors. It was a shuttle shift with a torque converter. I've got one in my 1600 backhoe loader. They also had the 995, it had an Allison torque converter ahead of the regular 6 speed transmission.
All this fancy mechanical ,hydraulic pieces and parts just to go up or down in gear ratio. I farmed ran tractors and I could push in a clutch and manually shift a gear. Looks like a whole bunch of over engineered parts to do a simple job to save a few seconds of time. I guess I’m jous old and grumpy.
Your videos are priceless for us who needs instructions on old iron!
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Thank you for taking the time to make these documentaries! Not only is this fascinating, but this is great reference material should I ever need to do this. I'm sure others feel the same as well.
Glad you like them!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for this vid. excellent as usual
Very welcome
That sprag clutch is amazing.. iv always wondered how that worked. That’s really something that all stays together..iv seen the tractor freewheel then grab abruptly on rough terrain, and now after seeing whats inside makes me want to reduce the people i let run the tractor lol
The older I get, the fewer people I let drive my stuff. It's like, "hey, I just fixed that!!!"
@@ThatOliverGuyChris hahaha i know exactly how you feel. The problem is I’m only 31. So at the current rate I’m going by the time i am 55 I’ll be so bad at sharing no one will even like me lol
Thank you for taking the time to film this and all of these awesome videos you do. I know it has to be somewhat frustrating always making sure the camera is in the right spot, and trying to get a snap ring off and the cameras in the way. And then when your light died right when the snap ring came off that would have been enough to make me throw something haha.. so I’m sure i speak for everyone here when i say thanks, we really appreciate the videos and you.
Over all, I enjoy making them, so thank you for watching!
Very good! I understand now how it works but no way I could take apart and resemble! Thanks so interesting
Thanks Chris for showing us this even if the unit was in good condition. It’s obvious how important your subscribers are. Thanks
Despite everything looking good, there was bit of sludgy residue in the bottom of the case, so I'm glad it's going to be thoroughly cleaned. I've already spent more time washing parts than it took me to film this.
Thank you for this video! I got excited when I first read the title!
Man that shop is clean hats off for such a nice organized clean shop 👍🏻
I had the clean filter turned on. It's like those filters that make you look like a cat. Thanks!
so awesome that you showed the insides of this unit. Thank you! My friend is one of, if not the, best Oliver mechanics in western PA. He rebuilt my hydrapower unit on my 1650 last winter. He doesn't charge me for labor, but the parts were $2200, and a couple parts were good used ones, because, like you said, some are no longer available new. It ain't cheap, but at least I know my hydrapower is right.
Just having someone that is familiar with the stuff is as huge asset.
Excellent bro you sure have a vast knowledge of even the smallest details. Safe travels
Thanks!
Been waiting for this one! I’ll have the job of doing this on our 1850 before long.
These are so informative, love the detail! Thank you for taking the time to document this kind of stuff! Been waiting for something on the purple one, hoping this is the begining ! Thank you sir
This unit is for the purple 1850, more to come!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Awesome! I can't wait, was hoping that was your plan!! Thank you again sir!
Great video, i feel like i could tear into one of these fairly confidently after watching this!
Been looking forward to this one. Thanks
Great job
I like how they made it modular, so that you could have the two speed or not, and so you could repair it fairly easily, compared to some tractors that would require a complete split to even get at it. Mechanic-friendly.
I'd say the biggest short coming they had was being unitized, they didn't hold a great amount of oil. If guys didn't check them regularly, a small leak added up in a hurry.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Yeah…I guess you’d have seen that quite a few times. A guy I went to school with had a Versatile tractor that he grafted an N14 into, since the smaller Cummins blew in it, and he had the N14 and 18 speed out of a wrecked Kenworth just sitting there. At full load the diffs ran hot, so he basically created sumps hanging on the back of the housings so they had more oil to work with. He was definitely the inventor type. He said it would have been really easy with those Rockwell diffs with the pump and filter, because he could just plumb in a tank off the side.
Thank you sir
Our 1800 had a similar system. One thing my dad taught me was never use free wheeling mode going downhill with a load on the rear.
Good advice!
I can just picture a hay wagon with ten or fifteen big round bales on it ruining your day after you crested a hill. Extreme pucker factor right there.😯😳
Thank you
Nice. I just did a JCB transmission.
Looks like a Borg Warner in a Case 580 backhoe.
I replaced the hydro in my 1850 with a 3 speed, love it.
The spague clutch wouldn’t hold coming from direct to under.
What would cause that? I presume just wear and tear.
Yep. There's little drag strips in there that makes sure the wedges lean when they are supposed to. Those strips break and sometimes the sprag will grab, sometimes it won't. Too thick of oil can cause that problem, but on a 2 speed it usually needs a new sprag. I was just doing some looking and the 2 speed sprag is up to $500. Ouch!
That Oliver Guy - Chris Losey I know very expensive. I bought the 3 speed for $900, best deal I’ve ever had.
Last weekend I was going through the hydra-power on my 1550 and discovered some deep grooves on the input shaft. Having a hard time tracking down a replacement. Any suggestions on some good salvage yards? Thanks for all your helpful videos!
Maibach Tractor, Smitty's in Dalton, Ohio. Welters farm supply in Missouri. Svehlak tractor in texas. Googling any of those names should get you their contact info
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks so much for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it
Hello sir, great video i have some questions on my 1850 gas and am new to olivers. Thanks if u can reply!
Sure, what's your question?
Awesome video! But I think I'll still have you do mine in the 1800.
Chris how do you remove the hydro unit from the tractor to replace the two sprockets and chain
You have to pull the engine and hydra power together to change the sprockets. You can replace the chain at any time.
Hi Chris, I'm trying to find a seal kit and a sprag clutch for an early 1650 diesel. Not having much luck so far. Could you recommend a source, please?
The seal kit is part 165475AS and the sprag is 30-309 9539. Ag Parts First has both on their website.
agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerce.com/hydra-power-seal-kit-165475as/
agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerce.com/hydra-power-sprag-clutch-30-3099539/
@@ThatOliverGuyChris U da best! Thanks much, Chris.
Have you made a video of the over/under yet?
Not yet.
Nice Job Chris, I wish I had waited for your video before I did my HydraPower, would have saved me doing it over. I do not remember the snap ring on the end of the output shaft, hmmm?
I hate it when that happens. It will drive me nuts thinking about whether I remembered to put a snap ring in, or some other odd thing like that.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I pulled the hydrapower and took it back apart, I had missed the snap ring. There doesn't appear to be any damage, so I am going back together.
Glad to hear there wasn't damage. It can't go too far forward before it hits the input shaft. The biggest problem would be if you had the early output shaft that depends on that snap ring to hold bearing pre load.
Are those similar to the 3 speed on a 9170 Deutz Allis? They use a white rear end. We were applying nh3 and tractor stoped. Delear replaced the assembly, it chucked parts out the case.
Somewhat similar. The case and side cover are almost the same, some of the guts are similar, and then there's the extra parts needed to get the 3rd speed.
I have a 1967 or 1968 1750 gas,,, wonder if its the under drive unit ?? Thank you for all the great Oliver videos 👍👍👍👍👍 I don't miss a one,,,,,
If the shift knob is on the lower part of the dash, it's the 2 speed hydra power drive. If the shift knob is next to the throttle then it is a 3 speed over/under. The 3 speed didn't come out until late 67, and 1750s didn't get it as an option until 68.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you Chris,,,,, I'll have to look. I thought for sure it was a 1968,,, it's just really nice straight tractor the hour meter is orginal with 3800 hours on it.. runs like a dream !!
good video. can you remove the hydra power without pulling the engine out on a 1900 with a detroit?
No, the input shaft of the hydra power goes into the clutch and flywheel of the engine. The best procedure is to pull them together.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks thats what i figured. the repair book said you can change the clutch without removing the engine but i must have read it wrong
Early 1900s didn't come with a hydra power, and it was an option later on. If it doesn't have hydra power, then you can change the clutch without pulling the engine.
Is a Hydra power the same technology as a hydraul shift, just without the over?
Pretty much. They moved the sprag clutch for underdrive, but mechanically it works the same
@ThatOliverGuyChris I'm buying a junk 1800 with a hydra power, I have an 1800 A gas, not original, no power shift. Would you bother putting the hydra power in the working tractor?
@bendunkelman4853 if I was already working on it, yep.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks. The junk 1800 has a wide front, should I put that on the working tractor?
@bendunkelman4853 i guess that depends on what you want and are going to do with the tractor
Hey Is there a difference in the hydra power that was used in the 1600 compared to one like in an 1800 or 1850? I’m looking at a 1600 that was parked due to a leak from the hydra power but I don’t know how much it was run low in oil so if it can’t be fixed and I need to find another one would one from a bigger tractor work?
The input shaft is different on a 1600, so if you want to swap a complete unit you need to find one from a 1550, 1555, 1600 or 1650. You could swap the input shaft, taking the shaft out of the 1600 unit and putting it in the one from the 1800 or 1850.
Thanks for the information. From what I was told the tractor was drove to the shed that it’s parked in but to get it there they had to keep a bucket of oil on the side cause it was leaking from the bell housing so I’m not sure how much damage it could possibly have done if they run it low in fluid
@@jasondagenhart1253 they're pretty tough units. It depends on how low and how hard they worked it. When the oil gets low enough it won't go into direct drive because it can't generate enough pressure. So if it got low enough where the pressure was dropping off and they were working it, the clutch pack is probably toast. There could be gear damage, bearing damage, or if they kept some oil in it, it could be fine. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil. They used automatic transmission fluid, and that will get a burnt smell to it and turn brown when things are slipping inside. If it's red, that could be a good sign, but if they were feeding it oil all the time it might look fresher than it really is.
Ok thanks I will check it. As long as a shaft or gear isn’t messed up it doesn’t seem to be that big of a job to fix just keep things clean and take your time.
@@jasondagenhart1253 if I had to guess, it's probably ok if they kept a jug with it. That means they were (hopefully) staying ahead of the leak.
I’m very curious what’s inside this and if it’s like a T/A.
So how similar are they?
Now I understand it how it works 😸 Thank you.
I heard that some come with a direct shaft. Like the 2255. What is the difference? Thanks 😊
The direct shaft in the 2255 was a way to opt out of the 3 speed. It used the same case to give bearing support to the shaft, but had a blank side cover.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I got it. Thank you 😊
I was working on an old HydraPower from a 1800 today, and the relief plunger was not tapped, not a big deal just interesting.
Interesting. Maybe early ones weren't? Maybe it slipped through?
Have you done an over/under rebuild or planning on doing one? Great video. Keep them coming.
I haven't yet, but will at some time.
Very interested. I’d love to rebuild one myself but I’d want somebody that knows looking over my shoulder. I grew up with Oliver’s on the farm 1800 gas 2 speed , 1550 diesel 2 spreed, 1850 diesel 2 speed, 77 gas, 1950T 3 speed, White 2 -85, 2-150, 2-155. My dad sold the farm 20 years ago when I came of age he couldn’t farm without me and he didn’t think that he could afford to pay me. Dad kept the white 2-85 and sold all of the Oliver’s. My old Oliver heart missed them tractors so a few months ago I bought a beautiful restored 1650 3speed and now I want buy a 2nd oliver with FWA. I or we never took a hydropower apart we’d pull the engine unbolt the hydropower and take them to the dealer for a rebuild. If you have a good hoist it’s not hard to get an engine out.
I'm new to your videos, but have looked at several already! Many thanks for the good reference and sharing your knowledge base. Have you ever swapped out a hydra power drive for the over/under unit? I'm thinking about doing that with our 1800A.
I personally haven't done it, but it can be done. Part of the design criteria for the 3 speed was it had to fit in the same space as the 2 speed.
👍👍
iv been wondering about purple oliver , is this the start
Yes it is. I've been having trouble getting a good match for the purple. I think I have something now, just got to get some mixed up. I plan on starting to shoot paint this coming week. I'm going to get all the white parts painted first.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris cant wait to watch it go together. love your videos
Thanks! Hopefully I can find all the pieces and remember where they go. Lol
Do know how much one of these weighs?
I'd guess 250-300 pounds, but I've never weighed one
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you!
Good morning Chris happy Sunday! Iv been looking forward to this one, mine is in need some TLC. Also, random question lol bur your northstar hot water pressure washer, is that electric or gas? I have the gas one but was looking into the electric one and wasnt sure if it had the power the gas does. Do you like it ?
Mine is electric, and I love it. It's 220, 5hp, so you can't plug it in just anywhere. They way I figured it, you have to be near a water source to use it, so chances are you're near electricity as well, so why mess with having a gas engine to maintain and fight with? I'd have to look up to see if the electric has less psi than the gas powered version, but this one takes just about anything off, especially once the water is hot.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you thats all I needed to hear. If it works good in your application and you love it, it will be good for what i want it for too. Thanks!
The only problem I have had with it... it started tripping the built in GFI. First time it was under warranty, so I let someone else fix it. Second time I dug into it. The capacitor housing on the burner motor is on the bottom side of the motor, and water will eventually get in there, and once it gets to the level of the wires connected to the capacitor, ground fault! I drilled a little drain hole in that capacitor housing and problem solved.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris sounds like they share issues. The gasoline one has a 12V burner motor, and I have had all sorts of trouble with water getting into that including ruining the ignition box on the burner it self
It's sorta like an automatic transmission(but uses normal gears instead of planetary gears). I watch Precision Transmissions youtube channel and the way that guy can rip down a gm 4L60 or the likes is something to be hold(It's satisfying). He likes to use Scotchbrite to refinish the pump surfaces.
I couldn't help to wonder if you found an automatic transmission that could fit in the area where the hydrapower lives, if you could have an Oliver(or White) with limited autoshift abilities.
I've never tried, but I bet there is something out there that would fit. Oliver did offer a the revers-o-torq in the industrial versions of the tractors. It was a shuttle shift with a torque converter. I've got one in my 1600 backhoe loader. They also had the 995, it had an Allison torque converter ahead of the regular 6 speed transmission.
Your memory must be good.
Not according to my wife. Lol
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That begs the question, what's worse your hearing or memory.?
All this fancy mechanical ,hydraulic pieces and parts just to go up or down in gear ratio. I farmed ran tractors and I could push in a clutch and manually shift a gear. Looks like a whole bunch of over engineered parts to do a simple job to save a few seconds of time. I guess I’m jous old and grumpy.
You think this is over complicated, you should see what it on the market today.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I will check in on what you are into today.
There’s your problem mister!