I can recommend Eduard Meier in Munich. They also have the red line, the shoes are also hand welted etc. High quality same as bespoke without the customized last. Price point is around 1.000 €. If you are lucky you can get one in the sale around ~500€ which is incredible cheap.
I'm glad you did this video, Kirby. For whatever reason RUclips has been pushing me shoe construction videos lately and I roll my eyes at all of them. They all push Goodyear welting as the end-all be all, highest quality of shoemaking. It isn't, frankly it is a lot of smoke and mirrors. I'd even say, with good quality materials Blake-rapid is better construction than Goodyear. As we know you can't cut corners with quality and that's where hand welting comes in. -Chris
Owning a view hand-welted shoes and high quality machine Goodyear welted shoes, I can say that I definitely feel a difference in terms of comfort. The thicker insoles of hand-welted shoes, make the shoe more comfortable to wear. Giving it better suspension.
Thank you so much for this video. I believe you’re breaking new ground and offering everyone a great learning experience. Very well done! I understand from an interview the CEO of Stefano Bemer did with Simon Crompton that the Classica line has the insole hand welted to the welt while the outsole is machine stitched to the welt. On the Tradizione line both the outsole and insole are stitched to the welt by hand. Perhaps you could confirm this in one of your later videos in this series?
Great to hear that Kirby is expanding outside of the UK. I'm personally not a fan of Italian shoes as much as the UK/Hungarian, but I understand their appeal. I'd be very interested in Japanese but they don't tend to travel outside that often.
What’s your opinion on Meermin? Their Linea Maestro line is handwelted and the prices seem very reasonable. Would they be a good value or do you think it’s a gimmick?
04:44 So how long do the nails stay on the shoes before it is removed and replaced with stitches?....until the shoe takes its form? if so how long is that?
I know it's been some time but it will stay on the last for at least a week. Up to a month. Compare that to RTW where shoes stay on for a couple of days maximum.
Kirby, are the clips that hold the upper to the last (the first shoe you showed us) taken out gradually as the welt is sewn on? Does the leather therefore hold its own shape once it has been stretched over the last for a few days?
Yes, the idea of leaving the upper over the last for up to a week, is so that it will retain the shape afterwards on its own. As they go around sewing the welt on, they will remove the nails
seeeing construction makes the steep prices more accaptable, love to see it. but what is the diffference between hand and goodyear? (construction wise)
Excellent video sir, I really liked that BMW M3 compared to Ferrari comparison. That is so true! Bespoke does feel more refined especially with the custom last is such a big difference too
Thanks for the great videos Kirby! In your opinion, are double stacked soles less formal than single? Particularly for black and dark brown cap toe oxfords (no broguing) to be worn with formal business attire. Thank you!
Could you please explain the machine welting. The short video clip on the machine welting shows a linen holdfast being sewn onto the insole next to,(medial) the upper, whereas the handwelting strip is sewn to the perimeter of the upper directly and is stitched to the upper and the insole. So is the machine welted sole basically a linen holdfast glued to the insole and then the upper and insole are stitched to the holdfast??
Hello, which pair of Carmina Black Oxfords are the classic ones like shown in the comparison video? There are so many online to choose from. Looking for my first pair. Much appreciated!
Question: Should I protect my leather soles with rubber soles (attached by a cobbler)? Or wear them as they come? My goal is to protect the longevity of my shoes
years ago I had some shoes made in Hong Kong. When I took.them to be resoled, the shoe maker told me they could not be reaired because of the way they were made. I think my shoemaker in NYC knew his stuff. He told me that when he was 10 years old, his father took him to be an apprentice to Mussolini's bootmaker in Milan.
Dear Kirby.. could you recommend a place in England or Europe, where to buy refurbished high quality shoes in order to start a store in South America.. thanks..
Intreresting... So a goodyear welted shoe is only as good as the glue that attaches the linen rib. No stitches bind the sole to the shoe. If that glue comes apart you have nothing. Seems not much better than a purely glued shoe. Sure you have easy sole replacements but that glue isn't going to last many soles is it? At least with a Blake stitch, the shoe is held together with actual stitching. This and the John Lobb video really brought this to my attention. And the Carmina video too, showed it to me first, and I thought "WHAT?" "THAT's this famous Goodyear welt?" Most places touting Goodyear welt hide the fact that it's all built on a glued piece of thin linen (thin linen rots easily too). Carmina didn't hide it but they went very fast over it, whilst they took pains to slowly cover everything else. I am glad I saw this. I am either getting hand welted or Blake. I'll never need new soles anyway, I can barely walk.
I appreciate the quality and knowledge both from the shoemaker as well as Kirby Allison, I just can't help wonder if people with means to spend $2k on a pair of shoes (or $5k on a pair of bespoke) spend time on RUclips watching these videos. Thank you again for bringing this knowledge to people like me!
Hello! I enjoy this video.. I would love to invest into a hand made shoe. My only problem is the Last. I don't like these euro shoes. Not my style at all
Berluti shoes use a blake construction and Allen Edmonds use a Goodyear welt. Does that mean The Allen Edmonds Welt is better quality than The Berluti Welt? I know A Goodyear Welt can last longer and redrafted easier but is it actually better quality than any other construction?
Technically, a Blake construction shoe is theoretically more structurally sound than a Goodyear welted shoe since the former does not rely on glue to hold the sole onto the upper while the latter does where the gemming is held to the insole.
@@yacovlevi No problem. I can't say that this is a 100% reliable (especially since some shoe manufacturers but faux welts and stitching on a shoe) but in general Blake construction shoes will lack a welt running the edge of the shoe and since the outsole is sewn directly to the insole, there should be stitching running around the inside wall of the shoe on the insole unless the maker covers it with some lining. There are some photos on Google image search illustrating this.
@@thechemtrailkid I have a pair of Gravati shoes $650 from Neiman Marcus. There is a white stitch like you said around the insole but no visible stitch on the outsole. Maybe they covered it over with the lip of leather like they do.
Right in the first seconds of the video, you mixed up something really baldy. Why do you think, GYW is the gold standard? There are a couple of ways to made a shoe which are much (!) better, including Norwegian Welt either by hand or machine, hand-welted shoes (don't know the real term but something like a GYW shoe made by hand, Blake and even forms of Blake Rapid. GYW shoes you can nowadays buy are mostly made by machines and have several disadvantages: - relatively high middle sole (cork) with the danger that already existing deformities of the foot skeleton will intensify - no support of the arch of the foot - relatively stiff shoe, as the frame is bent along its longitudinal axis after sewing to the Gemband - due to the relatively high construction of the frame, which is sewn to the Gemband, the construction of the Gemband is subject to relatively high shear forces, which must be absorbed by the Gemband. Fabian
If I told you what I am paying for my individualized made to order hand-welted shoes with personal modifications on the last from true small italian shoe makers you would never buy ready to wear shoes from big companies again.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
I am so enjoying this video !
Have restarted it 3 times already...
I am learning to make bespoke quality shoes.
Really enjoying those close ups !!!
Q
Impeccable workmanship. Shoes are gorgeous.
What is incredible about bespoke shoes is the craftsmanship hidden in a piece of art.
Dear Kirkby, grateful for all the videos you post, very informative. Every time.
I can recommend Eduard Meier in Munich. They also have the red line, the shoes are also hand welted etc. High quality same as bespoke without the customized last. Price point is around 1.000 €. If you are lucky you can get one in the sale around ~500€ which is incredible cheap.
Imagine having a pair of shoes handwelted by Daniel Day-Lewis himself!!! awesome video!
Nice to finally see samples of the process up close.
Thank you Kirby for explaining why Goodyear welting is so unique and so viable for any shoe enthusiast.
Brilliantly done Kirby!! 👌🏾
I'm glad you did this video, Kirby. For whatever reason RUclips has been pushing me shoe construction videos lately and I roll my eyes at all of them. They all push Goodyear welting as the end-all be all, highest quality of shoemaking. It isn't, frankly it is a lot of smoke and mirrors. I'd even say, with good quality materials Blake-rapid is better construction than Goodyear. As we know you can't cut corners with quality and that's where hand welting comes in. -Chris
One item I wish to have in my own wardrobe one day. These shoes are gorgeous.
I don't think there is a video of youtube on this topic of this quality. Great job
Excellent video! I like that it wasn't only pushing Saphir products. More like this, please!
Love the knowledge I get from watching your HP videos, this one is very informative....thanks Kirby!
Awesome video. Super cool to demonstrate and show the different steps.
I never know shoe engineering was so intricate.
Love your videos! I've been mesmerized by the quality and informative nature of your videos!
Very informative and educational. Thanks Kirby!
Great video, sharing such wonderful craftsmanship.
Love watching all your videos. Always quality shoes, garments, and accessories.
Owning a view hand-welted shoes and high quality machine Goodyear welted shoes, I can say that I definitely feel a difference in terms of comfort. The thicker insoles of hand-welted shoes, make the shoe more comfortable to wear. Giving it better suspension.
Very interesting video - thanks! The close-ups make the video: we get to see what is going on and this makes the video much more interesting.
This was an excellent tutorial. Really enjoyed.
Very informative and passionate video. Learned a lot, thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. I believe you’re breaking new ground and offering everyone a great learning experience. Very well done! I understand from an interview the CEO of Stefano Bemer did with Simon Crompton that the Classica line has the insole hand welted to the welt while the outsole is machine stitched to the welt. On the Tradizione line both the outsole and insole are stitched to the welt by hand. Perhaps you could confirm this in one of your later videos in this series?
Very insightful look into the insides!
Great to hear that Kirby is expanding outside of the UK. I'm personally not a fan of Italian shoes as much as the UK/Hungarian, but I understand their appeal. I'd be very interested in Japanese but they don't tend to travel outside that often.
He did make it to Germany for the JR Rendenbach factory tour
I've always wondered if a a good value hand-welted shoe like Vass is better than say John Lobb Paris when it comes to better construction.
Great video! Incredible detail on how high quality shoes are made.
Great content as always, Kirby! Thanks.
Stefano Bemer is a great shoemaker. Can’t wait to see the review.
Have to watch this again!
A perfect video. Thank you.
Oh, I get it now thanks Kirby :)
What’s your opinion on Meermin? Their Linea Maestro line is handwelted and the prices seem very reasonable. Would they be a good value or do you think it’s a gimmick?
Great video as always - very informative!
A very informative, and enjoyable video!
Great video as always, Kirby! Can a handwelted shoe be resoled using Goodyear Welted technique (using the machine)?
Very informative video as always!
04:44 So how long do the nails stay on the shoes before it is removed and replaced with stitches?....until the shoe takes its form? if so how long is that?
I know it's been some time but it will stay on the last for at least a week. Up to a month. Compare that to RTW where shoes stay on for a couple of days maximum.
Very interesting, I will be using this info on my next dress shoe purchase.
Very interesting, thanks for the vid!
Kirby, are the clips that hold the upper to the last (the first shoe you showed us) taken out gradually as the welt is sewn on? Does the leather therefore hold its own shape once it has been stretched over the last for a few days?
Yes, the idea of leaving the upper over the last for up to a week, is so that it will retain the shape afterwards on its own. As they go around sewing the welt on, they will remove the nails
Excellent and very informative video! Thank you!! BTW, so seem to always wear that same tie-ancient matter? It’s quite nice.
Very informative Kirby!
Already bought one of these shoes thank you !
seeeing construction makes the steep prices more accaptable, love to see it.
but what is the diffference between hand and goodyear? (construction wise)
Very informative video! Thank you!
Hi Kirby! Can you make a video about suspenders for suits? Which ones to purchase and how they are worn.
Very cool information. One thing I didn’t understand was welting.
Beautiful shoes, great information.
Cheers, Kirby!
Another great video!
Excellent video sir, I really liked that BMW M3 compared to Ferrari comparison. That is so true! Bespoke does feel more refined especially with the custom last is such a big difference too
I very very very enjoying this video.
Thanks for the great videos Kirby! In your opinion, are double stacked soles less formal than single? Particularly for black and dark brown cap toe oxfords (no broguing) to be worn with formal business attire. Thank you!
Can't wait to own a pair
Thanks Kirby. How could you tell if a pair of shoes is good-year welted?
I couldn't tell from the video, do they sew a rand at the back of the upper, or is it welted all the way round?
On the models used in this video, the welt is a 360 degree welt, meaning it goes all the way around the shoe
Great video very informative
Could you please explain the machine welting. The short video clip on the machine welting shows a linen holdfast being sewn onto the insole next to,(medial) the upper, whereas the handwelting strip is sewn to the perimeter of the upper directly and is stitched to the upper and the insole. So is the machine welted sole basically a linen holdfast glued to the insole and then the upper and insole are stitched to the holdfast??
Love your channel!
Great video!
Love the content keep it coming
Hi Kirby have you had any experience with Carlos Santos shoes from Portugal?
I wonder how these compare to a pair of ready-to-wear Vass shoes, as those are considerably less pricey (about 550 euros).
Was thinking the same thing 🤔
Great video
All the love from Jordan ❤️
Awesome!
No wooden or steel shank???
What's the best way to determine shoe size when you cant try them on?
Hello, which pair of Carmina Black Oxfords are the classic ones like shown in the comparison video? There are so many online to choose from. Looking for my first pair. Much appreciated!
I believe the ones we used in the comparison video were the black cap toe oxfords on the forest EEE last
Question: Should I protect my leather soles with rubber soles (attached by a cobbler)? Or wear them as they come? My goal is to protect the longevity of my shoes
Yes, you should get a rubber topy. Refers to Trenton & Heath channel
years ago I had some shoes made in Hong Kong. When I took.them to be resoled, the shoe maker told me they could not be reaired because of the way they were made. I think my shoemaker in NYC knew his stuff. He told me that when he was 10 years old, his father took him to be an apprentice to Mussolini's bootmaker in Milan.
Kirby at what stage do all those bent nails come out ?
As soon as they begin to sew the welt to the sole, they will begin removing the nails holding the pieces in place.
Are Goodyear machine Welted overrated then ? As they seem to be a mass production technique?
I would love to win the give away Kirby, I painstakingly hime my shoes and enjoy learning more about fine shoes.
Dear Kirby.. could you recommend a place in England or Europe, where to buy refurbished high quality shoes in order to start a store in South America.. thanks..
Unfortunately not. Maybe reach out to J FitzPatrick
That's cool.
The Kirby Allison Drinking Game: Take two shots whenever Kirby smacks his lips.
Where or how did “Goodyear” welting get its name?
Goodyear was the inventors last name
Intreresting... So a goodyear welted shoe is only as good as the glue that attaches the linen rib. No stitches bind the sole to the shoe. If that glue comes apart you have nothing. Seems not much better than a purely glued shoe. Sure you have easy sole replacements but that glue isn't going to last many soles is it? At least with a Blake stitch, the shoe is held together with actual stitching. This and the John Lobb video really brought this to my attention. And the Carmina video too, showed it to me first, and I thought "WHAT?" "THAT's this famous Goodyear welt?" Most places touting Goodyear welt hide the fact that it's all built on a glued piece of thin linen (thin linen rots easily too). Carmina didn't hide it but they went very fast over it, whilst they took pains to slowly cover everything else. I am glad I saw this. I am either getting hand welted or Blake. I'll never need new soles anyway, I can barely walk.
I would love to win the give away I absolutely love to shine shoes and dress well. Love your videos Kirby
I appreciate the quality and knowledge both from the shoemaker as well as Kirby Allison, I just can't help wonder if people with means to spend $2k on a pair of shoes (or $5k on a pair of bespoke) spend time on RUclips watching these videos. Thank you again for bringing this knowledge to people like me!
Hello! I enjoy this video.. I would love to invest into a hand made shoe. My only problem is the Last. I don't like these euro shoes. Not my style at all
Plenty of makers out there that do more conservative stuff
Hi, what software or app do you use for making your videos? I am based in India and want to start my own channel reviewing Indian made shoes.
COMMENT! Black Tie LIVE STREAM! And, I LOVE welted ;)
Bemer😍
Berluti shoes use a blake construction and Allen Edmonds use a Goodyear welt. Does that mean The Allen Edmonds Welt is better quality than The Berluti Welt? I know A Goodyear Welt can last longer and redrafted easier but is it actually better quality than any other construction?
Technically, a Blake construction shoe is theoretically more structurally sound than a Goodyear welted shoe since the former does not rely on glue to hold the sole onto the upper while the latter does where the gemming is held to the insole.
@@thechemtrailkid That is interesting. Thank you for telling me know. I have a question. How would I be able to tell of a shoe is a blake please?
@@yacovlevi No problem. I can't say that this is a 100% reliable (especially since some shoe manufacturers but faux welts and stitching on a shoe) but in general Blake construction shoes will lack a welt running the edge of the shoe and since the outsole is sewn directly to the insole, there should be stitching running around the inside wall of the shoe on the insole unless the maker covers it with some lining. There are some photos on Google image search illustrating this.
@@thechemtrailkid I have a pair of Gravati shoes $650 from Neiman Marcus. There is a white stitch like you said around the insole but no visible stitch on the outsole. Maybe they covered it over with the lip of leather like they do.
@@yacovlevi Yes, that would make sense. Many high end shoe makers do that.
The last shoes is so slim, i assume it must be made for a very thin gentlemen
Ready for the giveaway
Right in the first seconds of the video, you mixed up something really baldy.
Why do you think, GYW is the gold standard?
There are a couple of ways to made a shoe which are much (!) better, including Norwegian Welt either by hand or machine, hand-welted shoes (don't know the real term but something like a GYW shoe made by hand, Blake and even forms of Blake Rapid. GYW shoes you can nowadays buy are mostly made by machines and have several disadvantages:
- relatively high middle sole (cork) with the danger that already existing deformities of the foot skeleton will intensify
- no support of the arch of the foot
- relatively stiff shoe, as the frame is bent along its longitudinal axis after sewing to the Gemband
- due to the relatively high construction of the frame, which is sewn to the Gemband, the construction of the Gemband is subject to relatively high shear forces, which must be absorbed by the Gemband.
Fabian
If all this work goes into it? How can meermin charge $300 for hand welted shoes? Is it a hoax?
They use Chinese sweatshops
If I told you what I am paying for my individualized made to order hand-welted shoes with personal modifications on the last from true small italian shoe makers you would never buy ready to wear shoes from big companies again.
I know who you mean. I have some shoes from Montegranaro as well. 😁 to think that people pay thousands for gemmed shoes is mind boggling
🇮🇹 🙏
:)
So the difference is the soles of your feet are cold.
How many times can you say bespoke???
Kirby, you must pronounce Stefano in the correct way. The accent is on the first vowel
StEfano. Cheers