Thanks for great explanation and video I don’t have air leak but I have transmission fluid leaking around module and shift tower Should I replace top plate or just gaskets
You can use a brass wire wheel with a drill and smooth out that rusted cylinder. I did that to mine and its still going 3 years later. Get a new piston kit tho and grease it really well
My FR 10 speed completes range shifts upwards perfectly, but the range shift to low seems to be a bit lazy. When you go from high to low, you have to Rev-match before the range shift is complete. It’s like the front box goes into gear before the range box. If you are lazy when slowing down and don’t catch low range by giving the throttle a blip, it won’t catch the low range and just stays in a neutral state. All the older roadrangers I ran didn’t do this. Is this a problem or a nuance of this trans? Awesome videos btw!!!
So I have a 1980 S1955 with a 10 speed . I busted the hi-low air line on the stick. While looking for a replacement they are selling "Upgraded larger diameter air line kits" My question is this.. is it necessary. And will the kit have the fittings that will match the block that is on the shifter and the fittings on the modualtor? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks John
I’m not shure about any kit I don’t do it that way I use bulk items but to upgrade to larger diameter airline you will be using 5/32 hose. You will need a length of about 3ft of THESE ARE FULLER PT#s 75320 black air line 5/32.. 75120 red air line 5/32 .. get 2 of a 85003 which are 5/32 fittings to go into the slave valve.. and get 2 of a 84005 which are the 5/32 fittings that go to the shift knob.. the shift knob part # is a A6909 for a 10 speed
What if I spray soap mixture on the modulator and it’s spewing bubbles all around it and where it connects to the top plate ? Doing it when it’s in high and low split
First off let me thanks you for taking your time to upload this video!!! But i have an issue where when i switch for high to low i get a short grind noise. But if i wait a bit at a complete (let the trans stop inertia spinning i guess) stop it doesnt grind. What might you think it could be please sensei
Brother that is a good video thank you! Great explanation. I had similar problem and I bought the the ' Fuller Range Piston Kit' part# K2923. But most of the time when I come to a stop and I flip the high range to low it won't click. Have to put in high again and low and then it goes...also when Iam down shifting and go from 6th to 5th gear it grinds and Iam bugging to think is either the piston shaft itself with its seals and O-ring or is maybe time for me to buy a new top plate. What do you think I may need to do or buy? Thank you again 👌
if your grinding from high to low there is a problem with the synchronizer and bull gear in your back box. Pull the transmission remove the back box and repair. Check top plate again while it’s out.
Were not sure what most shops would charge for this job but we do know what’s involved in doing the job and doing it correctly. To do it correctly you need to pull a section of driveline,drain and pull the transmission. Then you have to inspect the transmission disassemble and reassemble the top plate using a new plate and a new piston kit.When you go back together with everything you need to use proper gaskets for the plate and shift tower. Make sure you use new driveline strap kits. So all in all it kinda differs from shop to shop some shops would probably take a while to complete a job like this. We can complete a job like this around 3 hours.
You can pull it under the cab in some trucks if you have enough space. Is it a good idea for just any shop to do it? No it’s not. It is extremely easy to drop something inside the gearing once the top is off. I know it sounds crazy but I have rebuilt several transmissions were someone has taken the top off while under the truck and dropped a penny down the shift tower hole or directly into the transmission while removing the top. We sold our business and property and I’m not doing this kind of work anymore so take it or leave it IMO anytime my trans needs work it needs to come all the way out
I have a 2013 freightliner cascadia. When I flip the splitter on the high side I hear air leaking inside the cab. With the splitter in the down position there are no air leaks. No air leaks on the outside of the cab either.
Lue did you watch the whole video?Just from what your saying you are describing the opposite of what’s happening in this video. I’m not there to diagnose but it sounds like your bypassing air from low to high inside the top plate. Have you seen if your air tanks contain any water? Is the air leak coming from under the stick boot in the floor?
I got the issue once again Ive already had the plate replaced and less than a year it’s leaking air from the piston seal again..Also have had a new air dryer put on but it seems there’s still excess water in the system that causing this problem..🙄
There are usually multiple air tanks on the truck and each one can hold water. Make absolute sure you have your tanks drained of water sometimes simply pulling the cable on your tank is not enough due the the drain not being on the bottom of the tank. If I had that much water in there I would probably park my truck on a slight hill and pull the plug out of the end of my air tanks to make sure I got as much water out as possible before changing my air dryer cartridge.Depending on the environment your running in you can most definitely accumulate more moisture in your air system than let’s say someone running threw Nevada over and over again. Here in Georgia the humidity is very high and it can wreak havoc on these air systems. You may have to replace your air dryer cartridge more often, the little filter can only hold so much moisture before it starts accumulating in the air tanks again.
On a 13 speed there could be a couple of different problems. First thing that comes to mind would be an issue with one of the orings in the range or splitter cylinder. If one of the orings are frayed or damaged air could bypass and pressurize the inside of the transmission and cause excessive ventilation from the vent. I’ve seen the type of oil used cause an issue as well. 50w regular or 50wt synthetic oil should be fine for the transmission. Don’t mix them or bad things happen. In my experience I would look more toward an issue with orings in the back box of the transmission. One of the orings in question can only be replaced by completely disassembling the back box of the transmission. Hope this helps
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918 Yes, I have a problem with the splitter cylinder. When I want to move the truck, it goes into neutral mode in the case of load. Greetings, thank you for this information.
The range valve was leaking and it was slow to range shift so I knew the top plate was at fault. I’m shure contingent damage will occur to the synchronizer with the slow range shifts. In this video the root cause of the problem was the top plate.
A good reason to take care the air dryer and drain the air tanks. Thanks for your explanation!
Glad to help
2024 and this video still helping a bunch! Appreciate the part numbers as well!!
Awesome video brother. Mine makes a clunking sound soon as I slow down to a roll when i put the selector in low
Gracias maestro x compartir esta buena información saludos
Thank you so much having that very problem right now
good video my friend ....very clear ,well explained.
Thank you sir hope it helps
Thanks for great explanation and video
I don’t have air leak but I have transmission fluid leaking around module and shift tower
Should I replace top plate or just gaskets
Good job this video really help me out alot
Glad it helped
Great video thanks!
You can use a brass wire wheel with a drill and smooth out that rusted cylinder. I did that to mine and its still going 3 years later. Get a new piston kit tho and grease it really well
Hi, what type of grease did you use? I am having the same problem…
Do you have to pull the transmission out of a 379 peterbilt to take the top plate off or can you do it on the truck?
Thank you!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
thanks
Did you bring down whole transmission down? Or we can just work and move the top
Did you ever try it that way??
Do I need to remove the transmission to replace the top plate?
Thank you
You're welcome thanks for watching Erik
Is there anyway to test
The modulated valve
My FR 10 speed completes range shifts upwards perfectly, but the range shift to low seems to be a bit lazy. When you go from high to low, you have to Rev-match before the range shift is complete. It’s like the front box goes into gear before the range box. If you are lazy when slowing down and don’t catch low range by giving the throttle a blip, it won’t catch the low range and just stays in a neutral state.
All the older roadrangers I ran didn’t do this. Is this a problem or a nuance of this trans?
Awesome videos btw!!!
So I have a 1980 S1955 with a 10 speed . I busted the hi-low air line on the stick. While looking for a replacement they are selling "Upgraded larger diameter air line kits"
My question is this.. is it necessary. And will the kit have the fittings that will match the block that is on the shifter and the fittings on the modualtor?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
John
I’m not shure about any kit I don’t do it that way I use bulk items but to upgrade to larger diameter airline you will be using 5/32 hose. You will need a length of about 3ft of THESE ARE FULLER PT#s 75320 black air line 5/32.. 75120 red air line 5/32 .. get 2 of a 85003 which are 5/32 fittings to go into the slave valve.. and get 2 of a 84005 which are the 5/32 fittings that go to the shift knob.. the shift knob part # is a A6909 for a 10 speed
My transmission leaks oil from the breather when I up the converter in high gear, what can cause it? It's a 10-speed aeaton
Will this cause slippage like the clutch is slipping?
The manual Eaton fuller transmission is not going to slip ever. Either its going to pull or not pull.
What if I spray soap mixture on the modulator and it’s spewing bubbles all around it and where it connects to the top plate ? Doing it when it’s in high and low split
When the top plate is bad it will bypass air internally at the piston in the plate causing air to leak from the modulator
Did you watch the whole video?
I got a problem when I go to low. It delays the shifting. my shop wants me to get a reman trans. Instead of fixing the piston
First off let me thanks you for taking your time to upload this video!!! But i have an issue where when i switch for high to low i get a short grind noise. But if i wait a bit at a complete (let the trans stop inertia spinning i guess) stop it doesnt grind. What might you think it could be please sensei
Synchronizer and bull gear in the back box of the transmission I would suspect
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918 thanks you so much
Brother that is a good video thank you! Great explanation. I had similar problem and I bought the the ' Fuller Range Piston Kit' part# K2923. But most of the time when I come to a stop and I flip the high range to low it won't click. Have to put in high again and low and then it goes...also when Iam down shifting and go from 6th to 5th gear it grinds and Iam bugging to think is either the piston shaft itself with its seals and O-ring or is maybe time for me to buy a new top plate.
What do you think I may need to do or buy?
Thank you again 👌
if your grinding from high to low there is a problem with the synchronizer and bull gear in your back box. Pull the transmission remove the back box and repair. Check top plate again while it’s out.
🤟👍🤙💥💣
thank you! @@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918
Do you have a video of building the plate?
Skip to the end of the fro16210c video
I build the entire unit
It says the video is private now.
It’s on our website now
How much a top plate cost for a Eaton 10 speed
What would be the problem if it doesn't shif from high to low or low range to high range
Thank you
Be more descriptive is it “grinding” when you try to shift high and or low or is it not shifting at all high or low and just neutralizing
mine grinds from high to low range, what could it be ?
What’s average shop charge to customer to do this job?
Were not sure what most shops would charge for this job but we do know what’s involved in doing the job and doing it correctly. To do it correctly you need to pull a section of driveline,drain and pull the transmission. Then you have to inspect the transmission disassemble and reassemble the top plate using a new plate and a new piston kit.When you go back together with everything you need to use proper gaskets for the plate and shift tower. Make sure you use new driveline strap kits. So all in all it kinda differs from shop to shop some shops would probably take a while to complete a job like this. We can complete a job like this around 3 hours.
Can you take the top plate off without dropping the transmission?
I wish he would answer this question
You can pull it under the cab in some trucks if you have enough space. Is it a good idea for just any shop to do it? No it’s not. It is extremely easy to drop something inside the gearing once the top is off. I know it sounds crazy but I have rebuilt several transmissions were someone has taken the top off while under the truck and dropped a penny down the shift tower hole or directly into the transmission while removing the top. We sold our business and property and I’m not doing this kind of work anymore so take it or leave it IMO anytime my trans needs work it needs to come all the way out
I answered it to the best of my abilities
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918thanks you I’m still debating on doing it that way.
I have a 2013 freightliner cascadia. When I flip the splitter on the high side I hear air leaking inside the cab. With the splitter in the down position there are no air leaks. No air leaks on the outside of the cab either.
Lue did you watch the whole video?Just from what your saying you are describing the opposite of what’s happening in this video. I’m not there to diagnose but it sounds like your bypassing air from low to high inside the top plate. Have you seen if your air tanks contain any water? Is the air leak coming from under the stick boot in the floor?
Have the shift knob itself checked for leaks or a crack.
Hi. Same problem here. Did you fixed? What did you chenged. I hear leak in the higher gear but not in lower. What was tge problem please?
Seems like the manufacturer should have used a thin plastic sleeve in there knowing air components are susceptible to water condensing and rust
It would have been nice 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Great video. THANKS FOR POSTING 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I got the issue once again Ive already had the plate replaced and less than a year it’s leaking air from the piston seal again..Also have had a new air dryer put on but it seems there’s still excess water in the system that causing this problem..🙄
There are usually multiple air tanks on the truck and each one can hold water. Make absolute sure you have your tanks drained of water sometimes simply pulling the cable on your tank is not enough due the the drain not being on the bottom of the tank. If I had that much water in there I would probably park my truck on a slight hill and pull the plug out of the end of my air tanks to make sure I got as much water out as possible before changing my air dryer cartridge.Depending on the environment your running in you can most definitely accumulate more moisture in your air system than let’s say someone running threw Nevada over and over again. Here in Georgia the humidity is very high and it can wreak havoc on these air systems. You may have to replace your air dryer cartridge more often, the little filter can only hold so much moisture before it starts accumulating in the air tanks again.
How much does it cost to replace it?
Probably an arm and a leg like everything else that has to do with diesel mechanic work smh…
Where can I buy a new top plate
We sell the rear position top plate here. Check with the dealership part number for the rear x top for fro16210 is S2842
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On a 13 speed there could be a couple of different problems. First thing that comes to mind would be an issue with one of the orings in the range or splitter cylinder. If one of the orings are frayed or damaged air could bypass and pressurize the inside of the transmission and cause excessive ventilation from the vent. I’ve seen the type of oil used cause an issue as well. 50w regular or 50wt synthetic oil should be fine for the transmission. Don’t mix them or bad things happen. In my experience I would look more toward an issue with orings in the back box of the transmission. One of the orings in question can only be replaced by completely disassembling the back box of the transmission. Hope this helps
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918
Yes, I have a problem with the splitter cylinder. When I want to move the truck, it goes into neutral mode in the case of load. Greetings, thank you for this information.
In this situation coud it be synchronizer
The range valve was leaking and it was slow to range shift so I knew the top plate was at fault. I’m shure contingent damage will occur to the synchronizer with the slow range shifts. In this video the root cause of the problem was the top plate.
Thank you
Yessir