Dude, this video is gold. I never even knew this was needed on a guitar. I just played a couple of Squires out of the box and wondered why it was such a pain.
Its been almost 15 years since I stop playing and what started by a simple clean up and strings replacement is now a full overhaul. I realized that beginners guitars are cheap and doesn't sound well because no one gave them love. It's a really usefull video man!
Before I even bought my first Stratocaster, you taught me everything I needed to know, and I built my own perfect, custom guitar on your instructions. Best guitar I ever played, mine, because of you. Thank you so much.
I was learning by doing a setup on a Les Paul Copy I'd bought used. I picked up the tools for radius, truss rod and height as well I got a fret level check. After doing what I have seen I still felt like it was not playable to the degree that my pro setup Epiphone LP played. Then I found out the AHA! I missed something...and this was it. My Tunomatic Bridge was not matched to the fret board or neck radius. If you have a 12.75 radius neck, the bridge where the strings ride needs to be 12.75 radius! It requires radius Guage and Nut files tgat match your strings. After I got the Tunomatic's radius correct I rechecked the nutt height, then performed intonation, action height and pickup height. It was World's away better. So make sure your bridge radius matches neck radius. I have two LP's that play awesome! I just picked up a Firefly FFLP Elite and started setup. It's exciting when everything comes together! Good Shredding Everyone!!!
I got a new bass with high action, even with the saddles all the way down. The intonation was also off at the 12th fret. I recalled this video, and sure enough, a small truss rod adjustment fixed both the action and the intonation. Thanks for the practical application videos!
Thank you for this Phil !! This 5 minutes can save a person many hours and frustrations !! Easy to understand explained in a straight forward way by an intelligent yet humble person. Love everything you do Phil !! You’re one of the greats on here bro !! 🤙🏼
Considering that in this time and age, where guitar manufacturing goes out of control so much, which affects the guitars' quality control, learning how to set-up your guitar, is both time & money saver. Love your video, Phil.
This video and the older one where you use different picks to determine string height are the BEST quick guides to setting up your guitar. Thanks for the great content!
I bought an almost new Gibson in Nov and this morning I finally got tired of the slight buzzes all over the place. I've been procrastinating big time. Just a slight tweak of the truss rod and it plays beautifully again.
Over this summer, I purchased the Classic Les Paul limited edition, in Chicago Blue and they include a photograph of the very guitar and it looks like they are doing a set up on it. I haven't measured exactly the string/fret board/bridge/truss-rod/ specs but it plays and sounds great and all i did was put new D'addario strings on it.
Thanks for revisiting this Phil. I have gone back to the video you made with Mr. Thorn and really enjoy seeing how he sets up guitars. Thanks again, have a great week and stay safe .
I've recommended the original video several times in guitar groups on facebook and have told them to skip ahead to 9 minutes and whatever it was. Thanks for making it shorter and more easily accessible. You're the man!!
I would simply add that if your pickups are too close to the strings then intonation is going to be a little off, so I would make pickup height and intonation one step.
Thank goodness for Phil being here so a novice like myself can figure out why the hell my guitar wont stay in tune and how to check this stuff, so I don't start stupidly blowing money on dumb unneeded stuff.
I've been using TRAIN on multiple guitars since seeing your video with Ron, and it's a lifesaver! With the addition of Nut, this should forever be an essential part of guitar ethos 👍
I would add change your strings before doing a setup, I remember spending like an hour on my brother's guitar trying to fix the intonation and it still sounded like crap above the 12th string. Strings looked clean but were super old. I just changed them and it turns out the setup was okay all this time 😂
Thank you. Great acronym to remember the setup order. There are a number of intonation methods. Not just on RUclips but also in books. All methods depress 1st fret but some depress last fret vs others depress the fret where the neck joins body. Some compare open string vs note at 12th fret others compare note at 12 fret vs harmonic at 12th fret. Is there a difference?
12th fret harmonic and 12th fret note is just easier to more accurately measure since they are technically the same note, rather than using the open string which is an octave below the 12th fret note to be measured.
The part about 1st and last/19th/20th whatever fret is about relief though, and has to do with some guitars having fall-off...on some guitars, the frets taper off slightly on the top-frets so they arent completely flat. On a guitar with an aggressive fall-off, using the last fret can "hide" the relief as the last frets are lower by design. In my experience its not really an issue i have encountered in practice though. Both methods are fine.
Love your channel! Thank you for everything! Would love a video of you setting up a cheap guitar following this order (+ maybe a few other maintenance tips)
Phillip - I want to say thanks. I've been repairing guitars for years, but the learning never stops. You've taught me a tremendous amount in a short time. Thank you. I have 2 questions for you: 1. How can I get some of your gear like picks, stickers, etc.? 2. Allot of great guitars are coming out of places like China and Indonesia. Sadly allot of them have cheap pots. Allot of my customers want new pots. I've some CTS metric pots that fit the body without drilling and the knobs fit. Have you tried these? Thanks again Sir!
Not trying to be smart ass, but what about intonation of acoustic? I was always confused about which comes where and this settles it for me so huge thanks for that
Great video! Thanks! I followed this video to set up my new PRS SE Custom 24. I had to lower most of the saddles. Then after the intonation step I ended up with the D and high E string saddles touching the tremolo screw heads. The high E saddle was set there from the factory. Is this concerning? No adjustment left in that direction.
Everything seems straightforward in this video. I'm just unsure where I should start my bridge height at. I've taken my saddle and pins off the guitar and have no idea what it was set to before. I understand how to change the relief, set the action and intinate. Again, is there a measurement off the body or bridge humbucker ring that can get me close? Then I can adjust my action accordingly? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
Thanks for the tip about the nut. I was not sure how to check that before. Mine only has maybe .002-.003 clearance on first fret using your instructions, so I am assuming that is pretty good.
That awkward moment when you are trying to find a video to double check a setup and you click into it and end up 5 seconds at the end because you watched it already lol
I've never measured but for the lowest action you'll simply want the smallest distance above the fret without it touching as possible, I usually set mine very slightly higher than that but as long as it's close to the fret you're good.
Steven Chabot I’ve checked my relief and when I touch the string over the eighth fret I have a small gap and the string clinks against the fret. Is this correct? I’ve attempted to measure and it seems to be about 8 thou but it’s hard to get an accurate measurement with a feeler gauge.
@@hgvinyl4512 its as much about how you like it set as about measurements...some people who like their action superlow have the neck completely straight and ignore the buzz. I hate buzz but i never actually measure, i have kinda learned how much i like by feel...if it feels right, it is :) What you describe is within a range i would say is ok. If it feels right for you of course :)
Thanks Philip 👌about neck relief, how much space should we see on the 12th fret while pressing first and last? If you could give us measurements thanks
Great system - thanks for making it quick and concise! If we were checking for high frets with a fret rocker, would you recommend doing that first, making the necessary repairs and then checking the setup?
Another Great video Mr. McKnight!!! Always doing setups!!! (Keep 'trying' different guitars.) Thanks for doing this video. Excellent as usual! I do have a request/recommendation video: Being that we are in what I consider to be the Golden Age of Guitars (plentiful good quality guitars at affordable prices)... What is the difference in levels of guitars today, and what improvements do you get as you move up in levels? $100 Chinese El Cheapo... Firefly, etc... Squier/Epiphone/lower end Yamaha... Entry level Fender/Gibson/Taylor/etc... and on up... I'm not specifically asking about these brands. They simply have some clear clear guidelines that I am familiar with. Thanks in advance!!!
New to the channel Mr. McKnight. I have a 2005 Ltd Ec1000 deluxe with the gibson style tone pros tail piece. When I got the guitar it buzzed quite a bit and the tail piece was close to flush against the body. I raised the tail piece and it seemed better, buzzed less. Then my truss rod needed adjusted to get the neck flat. Did I raise the tail piece too much and thats why I needed to adjust the neck? Or is that just a preference thing. Also ever recommend the string wrap over the tail piece method? Thanks for your time.
When do you do Fret leveling? Im' guessing you tune, play every note on the fretboard and paint the buzzing frets for each string. Then if most strings buzz between 1-5 strings it needs truss rod adjustment too. Also confirming with the method you show in this video of holding the first and last frets and tapping the 12th fret. If most buzz between 12-24 you need to raise the saddles. If you get random buzzing without any pattern, it just needs fret leveling on those spots. And after that you proceed with the Action, Nut and Intonation. Is this correct?
Also at some point you need to change the strings since changing the gauge will affect how much you can lower the action. And also cause rusty strings become thicker than new strings...
Hi Phil, love these videos. I need to adjust the trem on my strat -does that come first/last or somewhere in the middle? (Sorry if this is a daft question!)
When do you adjust the action? You gave great detail about the R and N, and linked to the I, but said very little about and gave no link to the A. When and how to adjust the Action, please?
I am Too new to buy, how do I go about connecting with ? a teacher, or? to find and examine a guitar to purchase a ready to play: NON-Lemon (a guitar built and set-Up well).
Great video. My own experience has been that once you go through the TRAIN process (or get a tech to do it for you), you should have to adjust the saddle action any more. Do you find you need to check the nut very often?
@David Wang Sorry, David, you're right - I did mean "you should NOT have to check...". What I meant by "saddle action" is the height of the saddles. In a traditional Strat style bridge, you can adjust the height of each saddle, and that's the adjustment I was referring to. Of course, with a tune-o-matic or other bridges, you can just play with the screws on the sides of the bridge. Needless to say, a vintage Tele bridge is yet another animal with two strings sharing one saddle, which makes intonation a tad trickier. My point was that once adjusted (hopefully to correctly match the FB radius, which you have to be more careful with, in a compound radius FB, since you can't use a radius gauge). You're correct about nuts - they can pretty much be left alone if one sticks to the original string gauge, or lighter. (I would think).
I need to replace my nut and Geartech is looking into this to see why they don't carry one for my guitar (or anything really close) but what order do I do if I need to replace the nut?
My "TRAIN" system is very similar: Tune, Relief, Action, Intonation, Nap.
Dude, this video is gold. I never even knew this was needed on a guitar. I just played a couple of Squires out of the box and wondered why it was such a pain.
Its been almost 15 years since I stop playing and what started by a simple clean up and strings replacement is now a full overhaul.
I realized that beginners guitars are cheap and doesn't sound well because no one gave them love.
It's a really usefull video man!
Before I even bought my first Stratocaster, you taught me everything I needed to know, and I built my own perfect, custom guitar on your instructions. Best guitar I ever played, mine, because of you. Thank you so much.
I was learning by doing a setup on a Les Paul Copy I'd bought used. I picked up the tools for radius, truss rod and height as well I got a fret level check. After doing what I have seen I still felt like it was not playable to the degree that my pro setup Epiphone LP played. Then I found out the AHA! I missed something...and this was it. My Tunomatic Bridge was not matched to the fret board or neck radius. If you have a 12.75 radius neck, the bridge where the strings ride needs to be 12.75 radius! It requires radius Guage and Nut files tgat match your strings. After I got the Tunomatic's radius correct I rechecked the nutt height, then performed intonation, action height and pickup height. It was World's away better. So make sure your bridge radius matches neck radius. I have two LP's that play awesome! I just picked up a Firefly FFLP Elite and started setup. It's exciting when everything comes together! Good Shredding Everyone!!!
That ron thorn video is still one of my favorites you've ever done.
I got a new bass with high action, even with the saddles all the way down. The intonation was also off at the 12th fret. I recalled this video, and sure enough, a small truss rod adjustment fixed both the action and the intonation. Thanks for the practical application videos!
Nice. 👍
I can't tell you how many times I keep coming back to this video!!! Thanks!!
Thank you for this Phil !! This 5 minutes can save a person many hours and frustrations !! Easy to understand explained in a straight forward way by an intelligent yet humble person. Love everything you do Phil !! You’re one of the greats on here bro !! 🤙🏼
Need to note that after making any of the adjustments in ‘R’, ‘A’, ‘I’, or Nut, you need to constantly re-Tune the strings and re-check!
T.R.T.A.T.I.T.N.T
@@Silverado5150MKII lol
That's given 😅
The best video set up around RUclips. Go here fellas, nothing better than this one.
Considering that in this time and age, where guitar manufacturing goes out of control so much, which affects the guitars' quality control, learning how to set-up your guitar, is both time & money saver. Love your video, Phil.
This video and the older one where you use different picks to determine string height are the BEST quick guides to setting up your guitar. Thanks for the great content!
I bought an almost new Gibson in Nov and this morning I finally got tired of the slight buzzes all over the place. I've been procrastinating big time. Just a slight tweak of the truss rod and it plays beautifully again.
Thank you. I need to try my new used Les Paul
I have been using this acronym since the original video and it has made my guitar maintenance way more methodical
Boy I scrolled for this one. Phil... You're the best man.
I had the Ron video saved just for the TRAIN reference. Thanks for repeating it!!
Over this summer, I purchased the Classic Les Paul limited edition, in Chicago Blue and they include a photograph of the very guitar and it looks like they are doing a set up on it.
I haven't measured exactly the string/fret board/bridge/truss-rod/ specs but it plays and sounds great and all i did was put new D'addario strings on it.
I like it!! Great picture quality. That LP light looks amazing.
Thanks for revisiting this Phil. I have gone back to the video you made with Mr. Thorn and really enjoy seeing how he sets up guitars. Thanks again, have a great week and stay safe .
I've recommended the original video several times in guitar groups on facebook and have told them to skip ahead to 9 minutes and whatever it was. Thanks for making it shorter and more easily accessible. You're the man!!
This is a great video and straight-up must-learn guide for people that will save them money taking their guitar to hacks at music stores.
Excellent, concise how-to video! Thank you.
I would simply add that if your pickups are too close to the strings then intonation is going to be a little off, so I would make pickup height and intonation one step.
Why is that?
@@thephoenixcycle8854 because the magnets pull on the strings and put the tuning off.
I would disagree unless you're using some kind of home made pickup with neodymium magnets at the surface.
It does not,that’s hilarious an E is an E regardless of pickup height
Thank you so much for this! I'm going to be basically restoring an old beat up guitar and this is going to help so much once I replace the components.
Glad you did a video on the order. When I first seen the Fender guy say that I replayed that part of the video many many times to memorise that.
That's the fastest I've set up a guitar and with the last amount of swearing. Thanks for the info!
Thanks Phil, I'm learning so much from you! .... Happy Easter, Stay safe!
Thank you Happy Easter
Thank goodness for Phil being here so a novice like myself can figure out why the hell my guitar wont stay in tune and how to check this stuff, so I don't start stupidly blowing money on dumb unneeded stuff.
Nice, short, to the point, great place to start. (Yeah, you can get very fancy, but this is just right for a starter.)
Thank Phil that is the first time I've seen neck relief spelled out so clearly
wow, that was a nice video lesson ... very helpful. thanks to you and Ron
Step 5 sounds exciting. hehe
Nice and simplified! Thanks Phillip & Ron!
I've been using TRAIN on multiple guitars since seeing your video with Ron, and it's a lifesaver! With the addition of Nut, this should forever be an essential part of guitar ethos 👍
Thanks Ron and Phillip
Thank you very much for making this video.
I've always wondered the right order! Train. Thanks Phil!
That Light is my favorite Gibson by far
So nice and straight to the point, thanks!!!
I would add change your strings before doing a setup, I remember spending like an hour on my brother's guitar trying to fix the intonation and it still sounded like crap above the 12th string. Strings looked clean but were super old. I just changed them and it turns out the setup was okay all this time 😂
Yep. I always make setups with new strings on
Thank you. Great acronym to remember the setup order. There are a number of intonation methods. Not just on RUclips but also in books. All methods depress 1st fret but some depress last fret vs others depress the fret where the neck joins body. Some compare open string vs note at 12th fret others compare note at 12 fret vs harmonic at 12th fret. Is there a difference?
12th fret harmonic and 12th fret note is just easier to more accurately measure since they are technically the same note, rather than using the open string which is an octave below the 12th fret note to be measured.
The part about 1st and last/19th/20th whatever fret is about relief though, and has to do with some guitars having fall-off...on some guitars, the frets taper off slightly on the top-frets so they arent completely flat. On a guitar with an aggressive fall-off, using the last fret can "hide" the relief as the last frets are lower by design. In my experience its not really an issue i have encountered in practice though.
Both methods are fine.
Thanks, Phil 👍
Thanks for all your hard work Phil. Keep it up and stay safe bro 😉🤘
Happy Easter Phil!
Thanks, Phil. These videos are helpful.
Thanks a ton Phil!
Nicely done. Keep up the good work!
Love your channel! Thank you for everything! Would love a video of you setting up a cheap guitar following this order (+ maybe a few other maintenance tips)
Nice instructional video! Question for you and others - do you adjust the truss rod with strings under tension?
Very helpful video Know your set up 🤘
Phillip - I want to say thanks. I've been repairing guitars for years, but the learning never stops. You've taught me a tremendous amount in a short time. Thank you. I have 2 questions for you: 1. How can I get some of your gear like picks, stickers, etc.? 2. Allot of great guitars are coming out of places like China and Indonesia. Sadly allot of them have cheap pots. Allot of my customers want new pots. I've some CTS metric pots that fit the body without drilling and the knobs fit. Have you tried these? Thanks again Sir!
very informative thank you so much
Great job!
Thanks!
No problem!
That's a good memory rule, thanks!
Great diagrams for the truss rod adjustment ! Also, which way to turn the rod is often left out of videos. Thanks Phil !
Thank you.
Fenson, gibder, Lesocaster, Strat Paul. SG Squire , Tele Phone.
Thank for the content Phil.
Great help! Thank you!
Cheers fron NY! Good vid Phil. Stay well ! :)
Not trying to be smart ass, but what about intonation of acoustic? I was always confused about which comes where and this settles it for me so huge thanks for that
Interesting. After years of set ups, I was doing the TRAIN method (minis the nut part) without realizing it. (I was definitely noodling though 😂)
Great video! Thanks! I followed this video to set up my new PRS SE Custom 24. I had to lower most of the saddles. Then after the intonation step I ended up with the D and high E string saddles touching the tremolo screw heads. The high E saddle was set there from the factory. Is this concerning? No adjustment left in that direction.
Nut and Noodle is the name of my new death metal band
Awesome Phil!
Do you capo the first fret to check the action? That would eliminate the nut. I have seen it written both ways (with and without capo). Just curious.
He was fretting it with his left hand. Capo would work too.
I have the same Les paul
Everything seems straightforward in this video. I'm just unsure where I should start my bridge height at. I've taken my saddle and pins off the guitar and have no idea what it was set to before.
I understand how to change the relief, set the action and intinate. Again, is there a measurement off the body or bridge humbucker ring that can get me close? Then I can adjust my action accordingly?
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
Complete and straight forward tutorial but can easily understand by anyone,,, Thanks bro, keep on.
Im pretty sure my problem is just that I Switch String gauges every five minutes and never bother to re-set up because I just did
Spenc Smyth i know that feeling
So I'm NOT the only one...
Thanks for the tip about the nut. I was not sure how to check that before. Mine only has maybe .002-.003 clearance on first fret using your instructions, so I am assuming that is pretty good.
That is perfect.
That awkward moment when you are trying to find a video to double check a setup and you click into it and end up 5 seconds at the end because you watched it already lol
Good demo Phil👍
Hi Phil, great video, what’s a good range for neck relief 8-12 thousands of an inch maybe?
I've never measured but for the lowest action you'll simply want the smallest distance above the fret without it touching as possible, I usually set mine very slightly higher than that but as long as it's close to the fret you're good.
Steven Chabot I’ve checked my relief and when I touch the string over the eighth fret I have a small gap and the string clinks against the fret. Is this correct? I’ve attempted to measure and it seems to be about 8 thou but it’s hard to get an accurate measurement with a feeler gauge.
@@hgvinyl4512 its as much about how you like it set as about measurements...some people who like their action superlow have the neck completely straight and ignore the buzz. I hate buzz but i never actually measure, i have kinda learned how much i like by feel...if it feels right, it is :)
What you describe is within a range i would say is ok. If it feels right for you of course :)
j 79 It feels good, a bit of buzz but can be avoided when playing lighter and its only really noticeable on one fret.
@@hgvinyl4512 sounds like it's good then!
Thanks Philip 👌about neck relief, how much space should we see on the 12th fret while pressing first and last? If you could give us measurements thanks
Shouldn't you sort out the nut first ?..if the strings are an inch high at the first fret then adjusting the saddle won't do much to lower the action
Great system - thanks for making it quick and concise! If we were checking for high frets with a fret rocker, would you recommend doing that first, making the necessary repairs and then checking the setup?
Great video! But how do you adjust the action? How do you know how much to raise or lower each string?
Hi Phil, I enjoyed the video! Does the relief test apply for a bass as well?
Another Great video Mr. McKnight!!! Always doing setups!!! (Keep 'trying' different guitars.) Thanks for doing this video. Excellent as usual!
I do have a request/recommendation video:
Being that we are in what I consider to be the Golden Age of Guitars (plentiful good quality guitars at affordable prices)...
What is the difference in levels of guitars today, and what improvements do you get as you move up in levels?
$100 Chinese El Cheapo... Firefly, etc... Squier/Epiphone/lower end Yamaha... Entry level Fender/Gibson/Taylor/etc... and on up...
I'm not specifically asking about these brands. They simply have some clear clear guidelines that I am familiar with.
Thanks in advance!!!
? I have that Les Paul? Similar, mine is a 2010. Truss rod cover states "Standard" though. Those are D'Marzio pickups, correct?
Great segment. How do you intonate the compensated bridges like a les Paul Jr or a PRS?
New to the channel Mr. McKnight. I have a 2005 Ltd Ec1000 deluxe with the gibson style tone pros tail piece. When I got the guitar it buzzed quite a bit and the tail piece was close to flush against the body. I raised the tail piece and it seemed better, buzzed less. Then my truss rod needed adjusted to get the neck flat. Did I raise the tail piece too much and thats why I needed to adjust the neck? Or is that just a preference thing.
Also ever recommend the string wrap over the tail piece method?
Thanks for your time.
When Loosening the truss rod, how long do I have to wait to know that the neck has become "less back bowed"? Will it be Immediate? Thanks.
When do you do Fret leveling?
Im' guessing you tune, play every note on the fretboard and paint the buzzing frets for each string. Then if most strings buzz between 1-5 strings it needs truss rod adjustment too. Also confirming with the method you show in this video of holding the first and last frets and tapping the 12th fret. If most buzz between 12-24 you need to raise the saddles.
If you get random buzzing without any pattern, it just needs fret leveling on those spots. And after that you proceed with the Action, Nut and Intonation.
Is this correct?
Also at some point you need to change the strings since changing the gauge will affect how much you can lower the action. And also cause rusty strings become thicker than new strings...
Hi Phil, love these videos. I need to adjust the trem on my strat -does that come first/last or somewhere in the middle? (Sorry if this is a daft question!)
i like the TRAIN acronym but what about the bridge saddles, if the radius is off couldnt you be adjusting the truss rod for no reason?
Hey man can I have that Telecaster on the right? Don't worry I need it for a school project.
When do you adjust the action? You gave great detail about the R and N, and linked to the I, but said very little about and gave no link to the A. When and how to adjust the Action, please?
adjust the height of the saddles.
Good job on the weight loss man, looking good :)
I am Too new to buy, how do I go about connecting with ? a teacher, or? to find and examine a guitar to purchase a ready to play: NON-Lemon (a guitar built and set-Up well).
Great video. My own experience has been that once you go through the TRAIN process (or get a tech to do it for you), you should have to adjust the saddle action any more. Do you find you need to check the nut very often?
@David Wang Sorry, David, you're right - I did mean "you should NOT have to check...". What I meant by "saddle action" is the height of the saddles. In a traditional Strat style bridge, you can adjust the height of each saddle, and that's the adjustment I was referring to. Of course, with a tune-o-matic or other bridges, you can just play with the screws on the sides of the bridge. Needless to say, a vintage Tele bridge is yet another animal with two strings sharing one saddle, which makes intonation a tad trickier. My point was that once adjusted (hopefully to correctly match the FB radius, which you have to be more careful with, in a compound radius FB, since you can't use a radius gauge).
You're correct about nuts - they can pretty much be left alone if one sticks to the original string gauge, or lighter. (I would think).
Succinct! Great video. Thanks!
I need to replace my nut and Geartech is looking into this to see why they don't carry one for my guitar (or anything really close) but what order do I do if I need to replace the nut?
Nut before intonation, unless of course you want to re-intonate after making adjustments to the nut...
Sir? My guitar's action is already too high but it still buzz. I tried to straighten the neck but still it keeps buzzing. 😢
What's the bridge on that blue strat on the left in the background?
If action is changed, remember to set pickup heights. Perhaps it should be TRAPIN? He-he.
If you put a guitar together for the first time, the intonation is going to be outta whack, isn't it going to be difficult to tune it first?