I did this mod a few years ago. In extreme cold (below 0F), the catch can or pcv would always freeze and blow out the valve cover. Maybe my crankcase generates excessive goo compared to others. I ditched the catch can and vented to atmosphere temporarily, and the pcv would still freeze. Ended up doing the m56 valve cover conversion which has worked out very well. In normal climates the catch can mod probably works perfectly, and I learned a ton from this video. This channel remains the best resource for e46 owners!
Just stumbled across this video and noticed you mentioned me in the comments. You are most welcome and thanks for mentioning me. I love your channel and videos! You are an amazing resource for E46 owners!
Your car has more silicone than a San Fernando Valley yoga studio. Thanks for doing the videos, helpful as I work through my M54 oil consumption problem.
when I installed my catch can I also started chasing vacuum leaks, I got those same 1/4 block off bolts and got rid of the clear tube. good work on finding those leaks
Yes, I'm a follower, 50kid , great explaining details, including possible common errors , where human :/ I also installed a decent priced aluminum square oil can on my E36 328i and at start up only, it smokes out the tail pipe slighty( 72,000 miles).. My Engine turns over 3 times before starting :( idle is not smooth, up & down 700-1200 RPM radically.. So I watch your video and discovered that not only does the pvc value needs to be facing the right direction, Thanks to you 50kid but mainly I must say that the check valve itself also should be facing vertical in place to work properly , meaning the (ball type) that's inside the check valve should be on top so it's closed even with just a little vacuum on it (idle).. (gravity is keeping it down closed ) however when thottle is increased the slightest vacuum increases enough that the valve opens (ball is pushed up) at that bmw recommended vacuum pressure .. if it's the wrong check valve (light duty ) or its laying horizontal the valve will never be closed( ball type) .. It will stay open at idle and uses engine vapor (incomplete combustion) that causes idle surges when warming up at cold starts only. When icv is fully opened at operating tempertures, restarting with this warm engine now, everything is fine until the next morning start ..other out there when you realize how a check valve works then you'll understand that it must be upright and pressure must open it at the right time .. that's why there's different pressures for different models... FIXED! THE RIGHT CHECK VALVE , ARROW TOWARDS VACUUM , VERTICAL INSTALLED.. Thanks 50 kid for leading me on..hope this helps others.. PEACE
Kid . Finally a video on a catch can !!!! I have been running this setup for about 5 months . Good idea to change the can it gets filthy on the inside . And yes teflon melts with oil it makes a mess inside de can . Great video my friend Cheers from Mexico !!!
@@50sKid Hey, do you happen to remember the hose size for the dipstick tube ? Is it really a 3/8 as you mentioned it ? Seems smaller, like a 5/16? .. Could you remember, please, please ? Thank you !
For me you is a wonderful bimmer,other person was desmount all air intakes for this operation,nice explained and nice videos,for me is bit dificult for language,but dont worry,I practice hehe,thank you very much,and testing Obd later and change o-rings thats good idea companion,nice your job,perfect job
Damn you put quite some work into this. I'm gonna wait for the results in a month or so before I mod mine. For now I ordered a new CCV to replace the leaking sticky OEM one :) Btw, if anyone decides just to keep the OEM CCV on, check your dipstick drain as mine was so clogged that I had to burn it in order to be able to take all the gunk out and actually have a flow trough it. Nice work ! keep us up with the results.
My opinion as I'm currently installing this , replace valve cover seal + grommets first hopefully you already did. Then My best advice to all is remove the entire intake, yes it takes longer but pulling everything off and inspecting all your hoses and parts and seals is key. I was surprised to see what didn't work pulling mine off considering I drove from northstar to Lonestar state no issues.
Excellent content on your channel, great work! Interesting you say, you smell oil vapers and your catch can is not vented. I've been running a vented catch can on my G35 for like 10 years now, no pcv valve at all. When I modified the lower plenum and saw all of the oil residue in the intake system, I was like how is oil in here? Then I discovered the vented catch can, which stopped this and oil consumption. The gf's e46 has been consuming more oil than normal and this is what brought me to your channel. BMW definitely made this way more difficult than it should be, but I"m impressed they made something to address it vs just recycling blow by oil through the motor. Not sure how the diaphragm in the CCV helps stop the blow by oil, but interesting. I was told that the diaphragm can get stuck open and that is a reason for more consumption, but I was also told an engine code will come up when it does. No engine code. This upload really gave me some insight to the install. Any reason for not doing a vented catch can? Once vented, you don't need vacuum to pull open the pcv valve and can just drill it out. Can't I just vent the the valve covers and plug manifold to ensure no oil vapers are being recycled back through the motor? Thanks for this upload and I've always thought the e46 is a legendary design.
You can, but you'll smell oil in the car due to the way the fresh air intake is designed as well as the amount of blowby these engines have at this point in their lives. You're not really recycling that much oil into the intake at the end of the day--I know the inside looks oily after a while but it's not like you are burning oil or dirtying the back of the intake valves or anything. People get too paranoid about an oily residue on their intakes.
Thanks for the response, but as I dive further into your video's I'm making you repeat yourself, sorry about that. After watching Cyclone Crankcase Ventilation System Explained, you know what is up.
I installed my ecs tuning catch can on 330ci e46 2 days ago, runs perfect no leaks, i used the napa pcv valve and completely deleted the stock ccv. I installed the can in the open battery space in the top left very impressed!
Thanks for your videos, man! I always appreciate them! (Having two M54s in the yard, I kinda am addicted, or at least depending on them.) Short annotation @ 16:55: I once broke of the whole port and ended up with a hole in my rocker box cover. So, folks, be a bit careful with each of those black plastic parts you 'll find in your engine compartment...! From my own experience, I'd highly recommend to get each of those hoses, quick connectors and o-rings new. Otherwise, you will do all that, ähm, "funny" work twice... kr from Munich! Markus
NO MORE WHITE FOAM IN MY OIL Love your videos. I've had my 2004 e46 330i for 13 years now and love working on it. I'm currently doing the notorious plastic heater hoses and getting the starter rebuilt for the first. When I first got the car I noticed white foam under the oil fill cap which concerned me and designed my own catch can which I quickly realized won't work in the part of Canada I live in with super high humidity in the summer and -30 in the winter. The reason a catch-can won't work here is mainly the freezing in the winter so I had to come up with another solution and quickly as the heavy foam was totally plugging my ccv system. I replaced my CCV system as I thought it wasn't working but it was. The BMW CCV is very good but can't handle the super cold and high humidity of where I live combined with short trips. My solution is very simple, 100% effective and free and you keep your BMW CCV system. All I do when I come home is lift the hood and remove the oil fill cap and watch the steam bellow out as the engine cools down. Summer or -30 winter is no different. It's amazing how much steam comes out and in the last 10 years I've never had a speck of white foam anywhere in my engine. The thing that bogs the factory system down is when you turn off your engine at freezing temperatures all that water in the engine and CCV system freezes. By eliminating all the moisture every time you turn your engine off helps the factory system manage the larger percent of the moisture while the engine is running. Hope someone finds this helpful
Awesome work thanks for being honest cuz most likely i would've made the same mistakes but since u already showed us what not to do i hope we can install the oil catch can 👍
Funny on such a modern car that you have to add something old hot rodders used to do in the 60s. That was way to complicated and time consuming. But you have a great knowledge on the bits of your car.
I've been running with the PCV valve mentioned in the video. It's great, at idle engine speeds but starts to work improperly at highway cruise speeds, resulting in higher fuel trims and spikes in fuel trims. The solution to this is to probably get an adjustable PCV valve like the Wagner DV-17. You can't use it in below freezing temps though.
Addendum to this. Do not use the Fram345 pcv valve or the DF17 Wagner. Neither solve the fuel trims. PCV valves are flow type valves. These do not allow for proper crankcase vacuum of 16mbar. Use the oem ccv vacuum regulator portion inline with catch can to maintain right fuel trims and bypass the cyclone separator.
I believe by that installation you've made more pressure in the crankcase (blocking the hose from the deep stick). I have an idea which I've already done on my car just need to make milage to check if I'm right. I've just cut the hose coming from the separator to the intake, and I leave it to breathe in the air, then I block the intake, so no more vacuum in the ccv, just running as the older cars.
I been doing your hose method and it runs awesome. I been using air water separator. Next step is to use the same pvc as for the return oil line. Oil will only return when the car is off.
I used a 3/8in vacuum cap to cap off the dip stick CCV line but after 3 months the cap split open and started gushing oil everywhere! I didn't see that leak spot only until after replacing the oil filter housing gasket (thanks for another great vid). Now I'm using a 1/2in vacuum cap with a hose clamp to keep things sealed off. The 3/8in vacuum cap was stretched too far for this tube size so I had to avoid using that same size again.
YEP YOU ARE great just one note this problem happens when you decelerating for a long time going down a slope when you push the accelerator you'll note the smoke
Hi. I just watched your video on the catch can replacement of the CCV. I see that you have the vacuum source for the PCV valve on the wrong side. The vacuum source goes to the 3/8 side of the valve. Also, the way you ran the drain line from the catch can will eliminate your vacuum source. You'll be pulling vacuum from the oil fill line. You need a check valve in the drain line, but you have to be sure that you have enough vacuum to pull the check ball closed while the engine is running and falls open when it's shut off. You might be better off with an electronic valve that is closed when the motor is running,(power is on) and opens up when you shut the motor off. I think that you will have a vacuum leak and be pulling oil up from the dipstick tube. Remember that you are putting a vacuum on the whole crankcase, which is in the oil pan too. So the check valve you put in the drain line is getting vacuum, and being pulled from both sides!! If the electric valve is too much, you can use a manual "ball valve", which would still make you have to drain the catch can, but it will be much easier to do. Just open the ball valve, let it drain, then close it again. I may be wrong, but I don't think that you will have enough vacuum to pull that check valve closed. It's meant to stop liquids from back flowing, which push it closed. Remember that you don't have a high vacuum to the PCV valve, and you're also using that vacuum to pull from the crankcase. That gives you a vacuum pulling both sides of the check valve. Thanks for the diagnosis of the problem though. I have a 2003 330xi that's burning oil, missing, and a vacuum problem too. I noticed that the vacuum gauge on the dash, (gas mileage gauge) fluctuating, being low, and having to build back up after the throttle is closed at an idle. I was going crazy. I was a mechanic for 40 years, but like a Benz, BMW doesn't give out too much info. I was thinking "vacuum modulator" at first, but it didn't smell like tranny oil. I couldn't find a PCV valve, and then I thought that I had a cracked head or a bad valve guide. I'm not used to going online to find a problem, but it was a great idea, and you are a great help. I felt a lot better when I found out that I was on the right track with my thinking about PCV. (That I couldn't find). It figures that the Germans would make a simple system complicated!!!! LOL. Thanks for a very helpful site.
Nice done! We installed the System at the secondary Battery Port. But ur way is better cuz it is not so visible. Also my Port is empty because i use WAES too. THX for ur great Video!
So I used a slightly more expensive can, installed the PVC on the vacuum side and after about 30 miles of non stop driving I can say no oil smell, and it runs great.
50s kid is one of the few people who understands that PCV valve is still needed if you use oil catch can. Basically you rebuild the original M52 PCV system with aftermarket components. Without PCV valve the high vacuum (when car is idling) will suck a lot of oil fumes from the crank case. This is the purpose of PCV it should be only open when throttle body is open.
So awesome! Your videos are the best they have saved me so much time and money. They're clear, detailed and well made all of them. I think you had the PCV valve right the first time though I put it on the intake side threads going towards the manifold. Thanks and please keep it going!
Thanks dude. It's not a matter of where the PCV valve was installed, it's which way it was installed. I wasn't able to flip it around and put it in the same spot the 2nd time because it had a 1/2" end and a 3/8" end, so I had to put it in the other hose.
Great video @50sKid, the best one I've seen on this mod. Good camera and sound production, thanks! Question: Will this make it so I don't pass a smog test in New Yorkistan where they use computer devices? (BTW, it's probably not a bad idea to replace the lower dipstick O-ring with a new one, as long as you're in there, no?) Just FYI, (Being an ex-certified gas and marine pipefitter)Teflon does hold up to fuels, but it's much better to use a high quality (not cheap hardware store junk) non-hardening pipe thread sealant on both the threaded connections and the gaskets. (I used Permatex White Teflon pipe dope). Believe me, it's well worth it. Tape for amateurs, lol So, keep up with the great videos Kid!!!
BMW CCV are used because the intake is lower than the valve cover IMO. I ran a CCV delete on my 02 X5's without a catch can because I live in the midwest. There are a few problems with the CCV system, The drain hose to the dipstick gets overlooked during maintenance, carbon deposit begin to restrict the flow of oil to the pan causing backup of oil into the intake (Summer) In the Winter the vehicle needs to reach operating temperature to boil off the moisture aka "Mayo" in the crankcase. People living in colder climates know what I'm talking about. Now with that fluff of "Mayo" and that hose to the dipstick restricted were is the fluff "Mayo" going to go? That's correct into the intake because the old & new CCV drain is plugged.So going back to the first sentence gives you the answer. The valve cover has to be lower the intake so that gravity will drain the oil back into the valve cover. Remove the CCV, Plug up the hose that goes to the dipstick. Now you will have to connect the intake vacuum line to the valve cover connector. ALL THE CONNECTERS AND THE VALVE COVER CONNECTOR HAVE TO BE ABOVE THE INTAKE. (I'm not shouting just making this very important) Line and hoses to use: Use fuel line which is plastic, the rubber hoses use as little as possible or as a coupling to connect the plastic line to a fitting etc. If you run, to long of a piece of hose they will collapse due to vacuum. When done no more Mayo or oil consumption ( as long as your rings are still good) My 2 cents.
28:40 Those "slip in" connectors are not siutable for vaccume. they holod prerssure really well. They don't have standard orings. U need to use screwed connector with nut for this pipe, instead of "slip on" type.
Great job bro, really enjoyed this Vid& thanks for trouble shooting the system so thoroughly too. I am considering installing the kit, will have to source a good catch can here in OZ! Fortunately we do have the “Smog” test here in OZ👍😄🇦🇺🇺🇸🚗
Hey there, hopefully you respond. I did a catch can install on my E46. I used the same PCV valve. How much vacuum do you have at idle? Is it easy or moderately difficult to remove your oil cap? I feel like this setup is giving me a little too much crankcase vacuum. Thank you.
What would happen If I connect the hose from the oil catch can to the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold instead of to the intake equalizer distribution? I'm talking about keeping the equalizer and not capping it off. Is it possible to let the intake of the equalizer free absorbing athmospheric air? Or maybe it would work to run a hose with a tee from the catch can as well to keep this part absorbing vapors? Great channel Jason. I'm impressed with the amount of knowledge you share and the way you do it.
How's it going 50's kid. Love the videos and you earned me as a subscriber as I have watched a handful of your videos in depth, multiple times over the past couple of days. Just had a few questions that I hope you or someone on here can be kind enough to supply the answers to, as I am still new to this self maintenance: 1. Does the oil catch can method work better than the ccv valve/hose approach? 2. If you install a drain line to the oil dipstick, from the oil catch can, do you have to empty the catch can at all? 3. If so how often? Thank you:)
Firstly, let me set some background, cost, design: Oil catch can - USD$20 Oil-air separator - USD$200 BMW's CCV system is oil-air separator, which should be a better design than oil catch can. However, its compact and plastic design has proven to fail many BMW owner such that a cheaper and simpler oil catch can that cost ~ USD$20 works better than this USD$150 CCV. Either generic oil catch can and oil-air separator will work, but 50sKid use catch can for cost purpose. 1. After experienced engine hydrolocked at -30C using BMW CCV, I certain said oil catch can works better as oil has lots of space to settle than CCV's design. Under cold weather (-20C and below), non cold climate CCV that is few yr old could caused oil sucking back into engine 2. Oil in the can will immediately drain into oil pan. If your can doesn't has a hole at the bottom, then you will need to drain it (to engine oil cover, or oil disposal station). CCV is designed to drain to oil pan through the oil dip stick anyway
I need help with installing a catch can. 1.What I understand is the pcv connects to the oil catch can. 2. I also understand you connect a hose that connects to the top ccv where the intake manifold is. 3. I also understand you need to cap off the oil dip stick. 4. What I don’t understand is does the other hoses from the ccv need to be capped off or do I just leave them ? 5. Also where the pcv is routed and connect in the bottom do I need to cap anything off or just leave it. 6. From the videos that I see I just see people cap off the oil dip stick connect the pcv and connect a hose to the catch can and then they go to the top of the ccv connection point on the intake manifold and connect that to the catch can and that is all.?
50sKid hi, I'm struggling to find a good PCV valve here in UK that could suit for the catch can system on my 330i, I bought one for a JEEP CJ 3.8 and 4.2lt, but seems to be quite small. I still didn't start the mod, so I'm still on time to buy another PCV that will be the right one. Meanwhile, thank you for all the videos you do, I've learned a lot about my 330i thanks to you, and saved lots of money doing the jobs myself!
I have gone through 5 vacuum caps on my dipstick tube since installing my catch can exactly as you did. Please tell me what is wrong because I can not figure it out
Just plug all intake leaks remove ccv and stick a hose on the valve cover route it below the air filter. Make sure that disa is working. The car runs like a top.
50sKid. The AddW1 catch can does not have that rubber line,.Its a little more money, but is is all metal.I am running it on my 04 e46 320i for about 3mths now,no problems. P.S i bought it for $90.00
Basically that is a Pneumatic connector and due to it connects pneumatic tubes (so air flows inside), means they should not leak. I don't understand why yours had problem.
Hey there, going to use this on my Supercharged M54B30 instead of the way Active Autowerkz system now vents CCV back in to the charged pipe... Hate it! If you are going to dump oil back in to the pan through dipstick just 86' the sight tube on the can and block off. Thanks for your vids.
@50sKid I just compact catch can for my BMW however it doesn't have a drain at the bottom should I drill it out to put the pilot mod on or just try without it? Please get back to me thank you also love watching your videos you're my go-to guy.
Kenny Springer most budget catch cans just have a canister that unscrews like an oil filter. Most of the budget one are too thin to drill and tap for a drain fitting.
I have a couple of questions: 1) Should the PCV be positioned vertically? 2) my engine has 139,000km's and I don't think my oil rings are worn quite just yet. Will the added vacuum created by the PCV cause excessive wear of my oil control rings if they aren't as worn in? 3) What is the chance that the PCV valve freezes in the winter?
Ok, need some help, did a whole top end gasket replacement on my 325xi, and I'm stuck and getting the dipstick in. Lol, of all things. It seems to be 1/2" off the bolt hole. Does it really bolt in to the engine mount??? Also my car is on 4 jackstands. Any ideas? Do I need to jack the back engine/tranny up?????
I have an important question... So, I keep coming back to this video. Thank you for explaining everything in depth. However, the PCV location and direction you kinda rushed through at the end, and I couldn't exactly understand. I bought the purolator 1050 PCV, same like yours. I'm also going to drain the oil back to the oil pan with a check valve. BUT, Where do I put the PCV. Between valve cover and catch can, OR between catch can and intake manifold? You mention something about your mistake causing the PCV to stay closed. And then you show edited footage of you putting it back where it looks like you're switching around which hose you said to go into. THANK YOU VERY MUCH =)
Pcv between catch can outlet and inlet manifold. Pcv threads towards inlet manifold. Imagine the flow of air out of valve cover through catch can and into inlet manifold. Blow on the pcv valve, it'll only flow 1 way. Then fit it the way the air is flowing so it doesn't cause a blockage.
hey @50sKid so I did basically the same install, used a different catch can also didn't do the oil drain like you did, my catch can doesn't have the little drain like yours but the rest I did pretty well similar my question to you is about the pcv valve, I used the Napa one you provided at the bottom, I'm curious is that one of the part numbers you updated? my concern is I get a considerable amount of vacuum in the crank case, I figure that's something I should expect. but I get a bit of suction pulling the dipstick or oil cap while running, I'm concerned there would be residual side effects from that, besides the debatable benefit of the vacuum on the cyl rings. any feedback will be much appreciated
That amount of vacuum is normal, that's the whole reason doing a mod like this improves your oil consumption. The side effects are if there are ANY vacuum leaks in your valve cover before you do the mod, they will be amplified by the increased vacuum now placed inside the crankcase. I recommend changing your valve cover gasket and grommets to a fresh one.
I installed it works fine. Drive about 40 km 25 miles, and check the tank or container that comes in the decanter and it is almost full. For what is this?
Hi, great content, very helpful. Just one question on catch can, I assume there will be water vapour gathering in the can, so depending on climate you my be getting fair bit of water in your oil?
I ended up removing the ccv system and routing a line from the valve cover port down to the ground to avoid smelling the vapors. I Sealed off the two small ports on top of the intake and put a cap on the oil return line port @ the dip stick. 6 months and probably 5 thousand miles later it seems to be runing ok. I'm no enginer- I dont know how much vacuum goes through the system but I need to know what and how much damage it might cause. # 02 E53 X5 @240k
Purpose of CCV (PCV) system is reduce air pollution (1950), and became a law in 1961 (California) that every car require it to reduce pollution. BMW (and many other) engineers designed the vacuum system by considering the pressure of CCV to archive the optimal performance/operation. In practical for car's life that is 20 year, removed the CCV and drain directly to atmosphere does not make significant damage to the car. However, the contamination is damaging entire human population for easily next 100 year, not to mention food contamination (due to soil + air + water + river + ocean = vegetable + meat + fish + drinking water + animals)
hello, you put a PCV valve between the rocker cover to the inlet of the oil vapour recovery and a second valve between the outlet of the catch can and the inlet ?
The problem is that you can't use the vacuum from the rail it must be from the rear intake port or it will be too much and suck oil through the catch can, also the pcv is not needed, if installed sideways the valve will not operate right, that is what your $15 catch can install didn't work.
That's what the PCV valve is for dude, to reduce the air flow through as well as to provide a check valve against pressure going the other way (in case of backfires). It's just a little round ball or plug on the inside with a tiny opening to reduce the flow through it. Who told you they need to be installed upright? I've only ever seen them installed sideways in cars. Doesn't matter which way they go. And it did work, it just sucked and smelled like oil like you were talking about in your video.
The e39 smells because of the terrible unsealable cabin air filter boxes, the e46 does not do that, that clear tube got pulled down from hitting your wire loom and made it leak, you have to make sure it is straight and locked in, I'm not trying to be a Nancy but look at all the cars that go through my channel and never a lean code after the can is installed, also you have to use fuel line or it will collapse on itself under vacuum, and that will push the seals out on the engine , we both can agree that the original CCV does not work, which is more than most BMW shops will admit, they don't want to give up those $600 CCTV replacement jobs I guess lol
I did make sure the clear tube was locked in. I showed proof on video that it DOES leak and showed why. Those things are not air tight, man. Not only do the little teeth leak in between them, the blue "quick-disconnect-like" thing does not seal around itself because it's plastic and not rubber coated. I'm not the only one to discover positive fuel trims after installing one of these. Like I said when I was commenting on your video, it's not enough positive fuel trim to throw a code, it's about half way there. But trust me half way there is enough to cause poorer gas mileage. If those lines were going to collapse they would have done so during idling which is when vacuum is highest. I'm also not the only one to have the problem of oil smell after installing these either. Gotta use a better can, there's no doubt in my mind. I suspect with all the RTV and the o-rings and what not I had some small leak somewhere when the can got hot. I'm not knocking you for what you choose to use or install, btw, I hope you don't take offense. I'm just sharing my experience with this. Btw I'm gonna have to disagree that the original CCV does not work--it actually works just fine and only needs to be replaced maybe once in a car's life except under extreme conditions like very very cold winters. I recall hearing about one guy who replaces them every year because he's in the Colorado mountains or something, but that's a unusual climate. Just because something that is made out of rubber needed to be replaced after 100k miles doesn't necessarily mean I'm ready to re-engineer it, ya know? Bushings, o-rings, gaskets, it all goes to crap after that long. We'd be replacing everything that is rubber on these cars. My big goal for this was to get the increased vacuum to solve the oil consumption issue for now. After I'm done with my rebuild I'll switch back to the stock CCV. I'm good with the check valve providing me protection in case the diaphragm ever fails and causes too high of a vacuum/suction. But... I've got the M5 oil separator from the E39 sitting on my bench and I will do an install of that along with testing if it produces fumes, which I know it won't but I'd like to be sure. I honestly think it's gonna be the best way to go because it's got a built in drain valve fitting and is all plastic which will provide more insulation than a metal can.
You do have a point about the 3/8" line that I chose to use. I remember it getting my hand dirty when I pulled it off. Definitely should have used fuel line (I was only planning to keep the install for a week, that's why I used it). Perhaps those lines were oozing oil through them and when everything got hot under the hood, it was baking and causing the smell. I mean, it's possible. Because I did have that catch can sealed up vacuum tight...
You can also get those separators on the x5 with the m62tu, the 540i and 740i use the kind behind the timing chain, but remember those drain to a banjo fitting line at the top of the oil pan and it does not actually sit in the oil on the m62tu , i think it will pull oil through but i will let you experiment and see what you find out, remember the v8 cars still have the ccv diaphragm on the rear of the intake so the vacuum is very little going to the separator
Oil catch can is a nasty name for a part I would want to install on my M54 BMW. I would suggest looking at the German Auto Solutions upgrade. It looks very professional, opposite to an eBay product. Great hard work though!
When I first came in contact with this CCV system I didn't exactly understand why they engineered it the way it is and I was new to M54 so didn't want to mess with the ccv system heard that it is very sensitive to that. On my car I used the factory parts and replaced them but those tubes and the ccv can under the inlet are pretty bad quality, even the genuine ones will make weird "plastic" noises, wear and get fragile over time. I think they engineered it the way it is to hide that crap :D . I liked how you kept the factory functions with valves but made it a little bit more industrial, and damn it would be cheaper, easier and better to modify it to work like this than to get the oem parts and swap them. Let us know if it makes it any better for you engine :)
the catch can i got wont fit a 1/4 male mip adapter to barb... literaly must be like a 7/16 female instead of 1/4 it looks liek it fits perfect just doesnt thread
Hi. Wondered if you can help me. I love ur videos. I installed a catch can. Blocked off oil dipstick. Used the pcv valve you suggested. But im getting a massive vaccume which is stucking oil cap down a lot and maybe causing oil to be sucked up from the sump. Any ideas? Would really appreciate any help you can give. Thanks
Soo the hole of the oil separator will be left open? I feel I missed if you capped it off or something also about to top hose is it just left connected?
Hello what is the easiest way to find out if you have a bad oil separator i have a 2004 545i that's smoking. Pcvs are good too out 4 spark plugs no oil plug is dry ?
Hi 50’s kid m ur big fan plss reply me this -i hve installed catch can on my e46 330i yesterday same as u did but i did not use pcv valve and now i hve soo much vacuum dat i hardly can take the cap off and it throw the engine light on i did read the codes about 5 of them all abt lambda sensor bank 1 bank 2 soo my question is -is it all coz i did not use pcv valve Thanks
I changed that and the valve cover gaskets and now my car is smoking heavy, white with smell of oil burning. I changed the intake to throttle body gasket also and noticed that the intake had a lot of oil in it. So I figured that I must have either clogged the separator or the tube is cracked. That's why I ask about the catch can on 4.4. I did change the valve cover on the drivers side too. It had a crack in it and they put jb weld so I changed it. And now it's like a train blowing smoke out.
+Jason Harris - Make sure to install on PCV Side only. Buy another Can with " Larger Hose " for your Breather Side. NOTE: Use " Shortest Hose you can " to eliminate " Starved Air / Blow by ".
Thanks your video. I have some questions My E39 is M54 525i engine Are there any disadvantage to delete original ccv systems after long time test? For example: oil consumption or air leak problem Will OBD detect error code after delete ccv systems?
What should we do if we have the m52tu and there’s a vaccum line going from the oil separator to the fuel pressure regulator (if I’m correct) what should we do with that vaccum line
I have watched almost all of your videos and I absolutely use them as a Manuel lol this one however confuses me in the beginning it seems you have the pcv valve in the tube from the valve cover then at the end you say it's in the one from the intake runner please specify witch tube it goes in I am going to install this system today and am confused also I bought all the parts in your description and the catch can is different have you done a vacuum test on this can you recommended a quick reply would be great and again thank you so much for the videos I absolutely love them
I have recently purchased a 2001 e46 with 140,000 miles and I'm getting the p-0171 & P-0174 lean codes. If my intake boots check out without any leaks I'm gonna assume its my ccv system. At what outside temperature would you not recommend putting the drain line back to the dipstick tube. I live in Tennessee and our winter temps rarely get below 30 degrees F. I just don't want the check valve to gummed up with the mayo like buildup from water/oil emulsion. Thanks
If you're worried about that then just skip the drain line altogether and empty the catch can manually. For lean codes, check out my common vacuum leaks video
Do your self the favor and get the cheaper catch can. I’m having the same vacuum issues on the mishimoto universal catch can. Also please make sure you get the proper o rings for the dipstick and clean the mating surfaces of the dipstick. Story of vacuum leaks with my 330. Disa valve vacuum chamber failure. Catch can flaws. Improper dipstick o ring. Day three and finally getting a grip on it.
another great video..question on M52tu the vacuum line from fuel regulator connects to the CCV ..so if you replace the ccv with oil catch tank what happens to the fuel reg vacuum line ... this vacuum line does not have much vacuum and is for leaking regulator diaphragm isn't it ..maybe connect to oil drain before the one way valve with 3/8 to 1/8 garden Tpiece. am going to do one of these PCV units but will use the 16 mm inlet and outlet on the catch can so only have one odd size ...great work again
The fuel pressure regulator doesn't need vacuum in order to function, that line is just to route fumes/gas in case the diaphragm ever bursts. You can leave that line disconnected.
So you switch the pcv to the valve cover 3/4 hose, but the switched it back again to the 5/8 tube on the intake with the new pcv? A little confusing with all the changes
Hi there, looking at catch can on E85 Z4. Do u think I would need a pcv valve if I used the smaller vacuum inlet located on the bulk head end of the inlet manifold? M54 engine. Thanks in advance....... Tim.
hey man awesome videos great job is there any plugs to the stock ccv that will throw a code after deleting system ? or does computer just forget about it ? per say
Thank you for the Video. I did the same installation on my car and when I drive for a test it drive really smooth but start smoking from the tilt pipe so I pull over and check the oil dipstick and nothing on it so I towed back yo my house and find out spark plugs are wet of oil do you thing I installed it wrong. Catch can has an input and output which one goes where? Thank you!
I did this mod a few years ago. In extreme cold (below 0F), the catch can or pcv would always freeze and blow out the valve cover. Maybe my crankcase generates excessive goo compared to others. I ditched the catch can and vented to atmosphere temporarily, and the pcv would still freeze. Ended up doing the m56 valve cover conversion which has worked out very well. In normal climates the catch can mod probably works perfectly, and I learned a ton from this video.
This channel remains the best resource for e46 owners!
Got a link to the m56 Valley cover conversion cant find one stupidly
Just stumbled across this video and noticed you mentioned me in the comments. You are most welcome and thanks for mentioning me. I love your channel and videos! You are an amazing resource for E46 owners!
Your car has more silicone than a San Fernando Valley yoga studio.
Thanks for doing the videos, helpful as I work through my M54 oil consumption problem.
did u solve your M54 oil consumption problem ? If so can you share how, i needed to resolve this issue on my M54. thanks
sri nandu same
Just wanted to say thanks, your part numbers helped me solve my catch can issues by finding and using the correct pcv! Thanks dude!!
What was your issue to much suction? On the oil cap as mine sounds like a sound can when you open it haha
Soda*
when I installed my catch can I also started chasing vacuum leaks, I got those same 1/4 block off bolts and got rid of the clear tube. good work on finding those leaks
Thanks!
Got my bmw back on the road today after studying this over and over the finally got all the lil parts thank you boss man
That's a lot of bits, thanks for listing them all! I'm really surprised that no one sells a ready aftermarket kit for this!
Yes, I'm a follower, 50kid , great explaining details, including possible common errors , where human :/ I also installed a decent priced aluminum square oil can on my E36 328i and at start up only, it smokes out the tail pipe slighty( 72,000 miles).. My Engine turns over 3 times before starting :( idle is not smooth, up & down 700-1200 RPM radically.. So I watch your video and discovered that not only does the pvc value needs to be facing the right direction, Thanks to you 50kid but mainly I must say that the check valve itself also should be facing vertical in place to work properly , meaning the (ball type) that's inside the check valve should be on top so it's closed even with just a little vacuum on it (idle).. (gravity is keeping it down closed ) however when thottle is increased the slightest vacuum increases enough that the valve opens (ball is pushed up) at that bmw recommended vacuum pressure .. if it's the wrong check valve (light duty ) or its laying horizontal the valve will never be closed( ball type) .. It will stay open at idle and uses engine vapor (incomplete combustion) that causes idle surges when warming up at cold starts only. When icv is fully opened at operating tempertures, restarting with this warm engine now, everything is fine until the next morning start ..other out there when you realize how a check valve works then you'll understand that it must be upright and pressure must open it at the right time .. that's why there's different pressures for different models... FIXED! THE RIGHT CHECK VALVE , ARROW TOWARDS VACUUM , VERTICAL INSTALLED.. Thanks 50 kid for leading me on..hope this helps others.. PEACE
Thank you ! Thi is absolutely damn correct !
Kid . Finally a video on a catch can !!!! I have been running this setup for about 5 months . Good idea to change the can it gets filthy on the inside . And yes teflon melts with oil it makes a mess inside de can . Great video my friend
Cheers from Mexico !!!
cap the side oil level clear tube. you don't need it and is a source of oil smell. keep making these videos we love it!
I did it cap it and it still smells like oil.
@@50sKid Hey, do you happen to remember the hose size for the dipstick tube ? Is it really a 3/8 as you mentioned it ? Seems smaller, like a 5/16? .. Could you remember, please, please ? Thank you !
For me you is a wonderful bimmer,other person was desmount all air intakes for this operation,nice explained and nice videos,for me is bit dificult for language,but dont worry,I practice hehe,thank you very much,and testing Obd later and change o-rings thats good idea companion,nice your job,perfect job
Damn you put quite some work into this. I'm gonna wait for the results in a month or so before I mod mine. For now I ordered a new CCV to replace the leaking sticky OEM one :) Btw, if anyone decides just to keep the OEM CCV on, check your dipstick drain as mine was so clogged that I had to burn it in order to be able to take all the gunk out and actually have a flow trough it. Nice work ! keep us up with the results.
My opinion as I'm currently installing this , replace valve cover seal + grommets first hopefully you already did. Then My best advice to all is remove the entire intake, yes it takes longer but pulling everything off and inspecting all your hoses and parts and seals is key. I was surprised to see what didn't work pulling mine off considering I drove from northstar to Lonestar state no issues.
Excellent content on your channel, great work! Interesting you say, you smell oil vapers and your catch can is not vented. I've been running a vented catch can on my G35 for like 10 years now, no pcv valve at all. When I modified the lower plenum and saw all of the oil residue in the intake system, I was like how is oil in here? Then I discovered the vented catch can, which stopped this and oil consumption. The gf's e46 has been consuming more oil than normal and this is what brought me to your channel. BMW definitely made this way more difficult than it should be, but I"m impressed they made something to address it vs just recycling blow by oil through the motor. Not sure how the diaphragm in the CCV helps stop the blow by oil, but interesting. I was told that the diaphragm can get stuck open and that is a reason for more consumption, but I was also told an engine code will come up when it does. No engine code. This upload really gave me some insight to the install.
Any reason for not doing a vented catch can? Once vented, you don't need vacuum to pull open the pcv valve and can just drill it out. Can't I just vent the the valve covers and plug manifold to ensure no oil vapers are being recycled back through the motor? Thanks for this upload and I've always thought the e46 is a legendary design.
You can, but you'll smell oil in the car due to the way the fresh air intake is designed as well as the amount of blowby these engines have at this point in their lives. You're not really recycling that much oil into the intake at the end of the day--I know the inside looks oily after a while but it's not like you are burning oil or dirtying the back of the intake valves or anything. People get too paranoid about an oily residue on their intakes.
Thanks for the response, but as I dive further into your video's I'm making you repeat yourself, sorry about that. After watching Cyclone Crankcase Ventilation System Explained, you know what is up.
I installed my ecs tuning catch can on 330ci e46 2 days ago, runs perfect no leaks, i used the napa pcv valve and completely deleted the stock ccv. I installed the can in the open battery space in the top left very impressed!
Nice, let us know if you get any oil smell as time goes on.
nothing so far the fitting are great with o rings and the can screws on together very nicely o ring as well, everything seals nicely.
Since it has been one year. did it fix the oil consumption?
Thanks for your videos, man! I always appreciate them!
(Having two M54s in the yard, I kinda am addicted, or at least depending on them.)
Short annotation @ 16:55: I once broke of the whole port and ended up with a hole in my rocker box cover.
So, folks, be a bit careful with each of those black plastic parts you 'll find in your engine compartment...!
From my own experience, I'd highly recommend to get each of those hoses, quick connectors and o-rings new. Otherwise, you will do all that, ähm, "funny" work twice...
kr from Munich!
Markus
Will this system work on the x5 with the 3.0i
Hey man. Great video. Looking forward to see your long-term test results. This solution could well be my saviour!
NO MORE WHITE FOAM IN MY OIL
Love your videos. I've had my 2004 e46 330i for 13 years now and love working on it. I'm currently doing the notorious plastic heater hoses and getting the starter rebuilt for the first.
When I first got the car I noticed white foam under the oil fill cap which concerned me and designed my own catch can which I quickly realized won't work in the part of Canada I live in with super high humidity in the summer and -30 in the winter. The reason a catch-can won't work here is mainly the freezing in the winter so I had to come up with another solution and quickly as the heavy foam was totally plugging my ccv system. I replaced my CCV system as I thought it wasn't working but it was. The BMW CCV is very good but can't handle the super cold and high humidity of where I live combined with short trips. My solution is very simple, 100% effective and free and you keep your BMW CCV system. All I do when I come home is lift the hood and remove the oil fill cap and watch the steam bellow out as the engine cools down. Summer or -30 winter is no different. It's amazing how much steam comes out and in the last 10 years I've never had a speck of white foam anywhere in my engine. The thing that bogs the factory system down is when you turn off your engine at freezing temperatures all that water in the engine and CCV system freezes. By eliminating all the moisture every time you turn your engine off helps the factory system manage the larger percent of the moisture while the engine is running. Hope someone finds this helpful
Awesome work thanks for being honest cuz most likely i would've made the same mistakes but since u already showed us what not to do i hope we can install the oil catch can 👍
Funny on such a modern car that you have to add something old hot rodders used to do in the 60s. That was way to complicated and time consuming. But you have a great knowledge on the bits of your car.
I've been running with the PCV valve mentioned in the video. It's great, at idle engine speeds but starts to work improperly at highway cruise speeds, resulting in higher fuel trims and spikes in fuel trims. The solution to this is to probably get an adjustable PCV valve like the Wagner DV-17. You can't use it in below freezing temps though.
Addendum to this. Do not use the Fram345 pcv valve or the DF17 Wagner. Neither solve the fuel trims. PCV valves are flow type valves. These do not allow for proper crankcase vacuum of 16mbar. Use the oem ccv vacuum regulator portion inline with catch can to maintain right fuel trims and bypass the cyclone separator.
I believe by that installation you've made more pressure in the crankcase (blocking the hose from the deep stick). I have an idea which I've already done on my car just need to make milage to check if I'm right. I've just cut the hose coming from the separator to the intake, and I leave it to breathe in the air, then I block the intake, so no more vacuum in the ccv, just running as the older cars.
I been doing your hose method and it runs awesome. I been using air water separator. Next step is to use the same pvc as for the return oil line. Oil will only return when the car is off.
I used a 3/8in vacuum cap to cap off the dip stick CCV line but after 3 months the cap split open and started gushing oil everywhere! I didn't see that leak spot only until after replacing the oil filter housing gasket (thanks for another great vid). Now I'm using a 1/2in vacuum cap with a hose clamp to keep things sealed off. The 3/8in vacuum cap was stretched too far for this tube size so I had to avoid using that same size again.
wow, good to know
YEP YOU ARE great just one note this problem happens when you decelerating for a long time going down a slope when you push the accelerator you'll note the smoke
Hi. I just watched your video on the catch can replacement of the CCV. I see that you have the vacuum source for the PCV valve on the wrong side. The vacuum source goes to the 3/8 side of the valve. Also, the way you ran the drain line from the catch can will eliminate your vacuum source. You'll be pulling vacuum from the oil fill line. You need a check valve in the drain line, but you have to be sure that you have enough vacuum to pull the check ball closed while the engine is running and falls open when it's shut off. You might be better off with an electronic valve that is closed when the motor is running,(power is on) and opens up when you shut the motor off. I think that you will have a vacuum leak and be pulling oil up from the dipstick tube. Remember that you are putting a vacuum on the whole crankcase, which is in the oil pan too. So the check valve you put in the drain line is getting vacuum, and being pulled from both sides!! If the electric valve is too much, you can use a manual "ball valve", which would still make you have to drain the catch can, but it will be much easier to do. Just open the ball valve, let it drain, then close it again. I may be wrong, but I don't think that you will have enough vacuum to pull that check valve closed. It's meant to stop liquids from back flowing, which push it closed. Remember that you don't have a high vacuum to the PCV valve, and you're also using that vacuum to pull from the crankcase. That gives you a vacuum pulling both sides of the check valve. Thanks for the diagnosis of the problem though. I have a 2003 330xi that's burning oil, missing, and a vacuum problem too. I noticed that the vacuum gauge on the dash, (gas mileage gauge) fluctuating, being low, and having to build back up after the throttle is closed at an idle. I was going crazy. I was a mechanic for 40 years, but like a Benz, BMW doesn't give out too much info. I was thinking "vacuum modulator" at first, but it didn't smell like tranny oil. I couldn't find a PCV valve, and then I thought that I had a cracked head or a bad valve guide. I'm not used to going online to find a problem, but it was a great idea, and you are a great help. I felt a lot better when I found out that I was on the right track with my thinking about PCV. (That I couldn't find). It figures that the Germans would make a simple system complicated!!!! LOL. Thanks for a very helpful site.
awesome vid. definitely doing this. you called the DISA "vanos" lol
I thought I was the only one that caught that LoL
@ 18:31 comment I was looking for.
Thanks for all your knowledge on these vehicles and your how to videos
Hay man. Thanks, I copied your build on my 2000 e39 and it saved a lot of time. I love your content.
Nice done! We installed the System at the secondary Battery Port. But ur way is better cuz it is not so visible.
Also my Port is empty because i use WAES too.
THX for ur great Video!
This should be sold as a complete kit. I like the feed back into the dipstick
So I used a slightly more expensive can, installed the PVC on the vacuum side and after about 30 miles of non stop driving I can say no oil smell, and it runs great.
very interesting. I'm going to combined this with Nathan's DIY video and see if I can take the best of both.
Done. Thank you.
I ran my lines over to the empty space on the passenger side and mounted the catch can there.
50s kid is one of the few people who understands that PCV valve is still needed if you use oil catch can. Basically you rebuild the original M52 PCV system with aftermarket components. Without PCV valve the high vacuum (when car is idling) will suck a lot of oil fumes from the crank case. This is the purpose of PCV it should be only open when throttle body is open.
This entire excursion is just not worth it for me .....thanks for your experiments.
So awesome! Your videos are the best they have saved me so much time and money. They're clear, detailed and well made all of them. I think you had the PCV valve right the first time though I put it on the intake side threads going towards the manifold. Thanks and please keep it going!
Thanks dude. It's not a matter of where the PCV valve was installed, it's which way it was installed. I wasn't able to flip it around and put it in the same spot the 2nd time because it had a 1/2" end and a 3/8" end, so I had to put it in the other hose.
First class DIY! I love how you edited it. Subscribed.
Wow. Like we talked under CCV video! :D Thank You very much for this movie! On next season i'm doing it in my M52TUB28 ;)
Ive ran a pcv valve inside the same tube just be sure to check the valve especially if engine has milky foam from water in oil will clog pcv valve.
you’re the best dude !!! you got solution for it all shout out to you
Great video @50sKid, the best one I've seen on this mod. Good camera and sound production, thanks!
Question: Will this make it so I don't pass a smog test in New Yorkistan where they use computer devices? (BTW, it's probably not a bad idea to replace the lower dipstick O-ring with a new one, as long as you're in there, no?)
Just FYI, (Being an ex-certified gas and marine pipefitter)Teflon does hold up to fuels, but it's much better to use a high quality (not cheap hardware store junk) non-hardening pipe thread sealant on both the threaded connections and the gaskets. (I used Permatex White Teflon pipe dope). Believe me, it's well worth it. Tape for amateurs, lol
So, keep up with the great videos Kid!!!
BMW CCV are used because the intake is lower than the valve cover IMO.
I ran a CCV delete on my 02 X5's without a catch can because I live in the midwest.
There are a few problems with the CCV system, The drain hose to the dipstick gets overlooked during maintenance, carbon deposit begin to restrict the flow of oil to the pan causing backup of oil into the intake (Summer) In the Winter the vehicle needs to reach operating temperature to boil off the moisture aka "Mayo" in the crankcase. People living in colder climates know what I'm talking about. Now with that fluff of "Mayo" and that hose to the dipstick restricted were is the fluff "Mayo" going to go? That's correct into the intake because the old & new CCV drain is plugged.So going back to the first sentence gives you the answer. The valve cover has to be lower the intake so that gravity will drain the oil back into the valve cover. Remove the CCV, Plug up the hose that goes to the dipstick.
Now you will have to connect the intake vacuum line to the valve cover connector. ALL THE CONNECTERS AND THE VALVE COVER CONNECTOR HAVE TO BE ABOVE THE INTAKE. (I'm not shouting just making this very important) Line and hoses to use: Use fuel line which is plastic, the rubber hoses use as little as possible or as a coupling to connect the plastic line to a fitting etc. If you run, to long of a piece of hose they will collapse due to vacuum.
When done no more Mayo or oil consumption ( as long as your rings are still good)
My 2 cents.
Moj separator ulja ide po asfaltu 😎 dugotrajnost motora je preca od ekologije 👌
28:40 Those "slip in" connectors are not siutable for vaccume. they holod prerssure really well. They don't have standard orings. U need to use screwed connector with nut for this pipe, instead of "slip on" type.
Great job bro, really enjoyed this Vid& thanks for trouble shooting the system so thoroughly too. I am considering installing the kit, will have to source a good catch can here in OZ! Fortunately we do have the “Smog” test here in OZ👍😄🇦🇺🇺🇸🚗
Hey there, hopefully you respond. I did a catch can install on my E46. I used the same PCV valve. How much vacuum do you have at idle? Is it easy or moderately difficult to remove your oil cap? I feel like this setup is giving me a little too much crankcase vacuum. Thank you.
What would happen If I connect the hose from the oil catch can to the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold instead of to the intake equalizer distribution?
I'm talking about keeping the equalizer and not capping it off.
Is it possible to let the intake of the equalizer free absorbing athmospheric air? Or maybe it would work to run a hose with a tee from the catch can as well to keep this part absorbing vapors?
Great channel Jason. I'm impressed with the amount of knowledge you share and the way you do it.
Essentially nothing. It's just another source of vacuum and I doubt it would change anything on the catch can side of things.
How's it going 50's kid. Love the videos and you earned me as a subscriber as I have watched a handful of your videos in depth, multiple times over the past couple of days. Just had a few questions that I hope you or someone on here can be kind enough to supply the answers to, as I am still new to this self maintenance:
1. Does the oil catch can method work better than the ccv valve/hose approach?
2. If you install a drain line to the oil dipstick, from the oil catch can, do you have to empty the catch can at all?
3. If so how often?
Thank you:)
Firstly, let me set some background, cost, design:
Oil catch can - USD$20
Oil-air separator - USD$200
BMW's CCV system is oil-air separator, which should be a better design than oil catch can. However, its compact and plastic design has proven to fail many BMW owner such that a cheaper and simpler oil catch can that cost ~ USD$20 works better than this USD$150 CCV.
Either generic oil catch can and oil-air separator will work, but 50sKid use catch can for cost purpose.
1. After experienced engine hydrolocked at -30C using BMW CCV, I certain said oil catch can works better as oil has lots of space to settle than CCV's design. Under cold weather (-20C and below), non cold climate CCV that is few yr old could caused oil sucking back into engine
2. Oil in the can will immediately drain into oil pan. If your can doesn't has a hole at the bottom, then you will need to drain it (to engine oil cover, or oil disposal station). CCV is designed to drain to oil pan through the oil dip stick anyway
I need help with installing a catch can.
1.What I understand is the pcv connects to the oil catch can.
2. I also understand you connect a hose that connects to the top ccv where the intake manifold is.
3. I also understand you need to cap off the oil dip stick.
4. What I don’t understand is does the other hoses from the ccv need to be capped off or do I just leave them ?
5. Also where the pcv is routed and connect in the bottom do I need to cap anything off or just leave it.
6. From the videos that I see I just see people cap off the oil dip stick connect the pcv and connect a hose to the catch can and then they go to the top of the ccv connection point on the intake manifold and connect that to the catch can and that is all.?
50sKid hi, I'm struggling to find a good PCV valve here in UK that could suit for the catch can system on my 330i, I bought one for a JEEP CJ 3.8 and 4.2lt, but seems to be quite small. I still didn't start the mod, so I'm still on time to buy another PCV that will be the right one. Meanwhile, thank you for all the videos you do, I've learned a lot about my 330i thanks to you, and saved lots of money doing the jobs myself!
I have gone through 5 vacuum caps on my dipstick tube since installing my catch can exactly as you did. Please tell me what is wrong because I can not figure it out
Also, I purchased a $200 mishimoto catch can to install initially
one of the video I've seen in a long time. thank you for this video
Just plug all intake leaks remove ccv and stick a hose on the valve cover route it below the air filter. Make sure that disa is working. The car runs like a top.
50sKid. The AddW1 catch can does not have that rubber line,.Its a little more money, but is is all metal.I am running it on my 04 e46 320i for about 3mths now,no problems. P.S i bought it for $90.00
Great video but kinda loosing sight of what a catch can is for, none the less very informative and good detail!
Instead of contaminates being cycled back into the motor via the air intake, a catch can is a system that filters them out.
Basically that is a Pneumatic connector and due to it connects pneumatic tubes (so air flows inside), means they should not leak. I don't understand why yours had problem.
Stock PCV works fine if maintained properly
Hey there, going to use this on my Supercharged M54B30 instead of the way Active Autowerkz system now vents CCV back in to the charged pipe... Hate it! If you are going to dump oil back in to the pan through dipstick just 86' the sight tube on the can and block off. Thanks for your vids.
Thank you for the video bro,alredy ordered the Can.
@50sKid I just compact catch can for my BMW however it doesn't have a drain at the bottom should I drill it out to put the pilot mod on or just try without it? Please get back to me thank you also love watching your videos you're my go-to guy.
Kenny Springer most budget catch cans just have a canister that unscrews like an oil filter. Most of the budget one are too thin to drill and tap for a drain fitting.
I have a couple of questions:
1) Should the PCV be positioned vertically?
2) my engine has 139,000km's and I don't think my oil rings are worn quite just yet. Will the added vacuum created by the PCV cause excessive wear of my oil control rings if they aren't as worn in?
3) What is the chance that the PCV valve freezes in the winter?
Any updates?…
Ok, need some help, did a whole top end gasket replacement on my 325xi, and I'm stuck and getting the dipstick in. Lol, of all things. It seems to be 1/2" off the bolt hole. Does it really bolt in to the engine mount??? Also my car is on 4 jackstands. Any ideas? Do I need to jack the back engine/tranny up?????
I have an important question... So, I keep coming back to this video. Thank you for explaining everything in depth. However, the PCV location and direction you kinda rushed through at the end, and I couldn't exactly understand. I bought the purolator 1050 PCV, same like yours. I'm also going to drain the oil back to the oil pan with a check valve. BUT, Where do I put the PCV. Between valve cover and catch can, OR between catch can and intake manifold? You mention something about your mistake causing the PCV to stay closed. And then you show edited footage of you putting it back where it looks like you're switching around which hose you said to go into. THANK YOU VERY MUCH =)
Pcv between catch can outlet and inlet manifold. Pcv threads towards inlet manifold. Imagine the flow of air out of valve cover through catch can and into inlet manifold. Blow on the pcv valve, it'll only flow 1 way. Then fit it the way the air is flowing so it doesn't cause a blockage.
I might have missed it but what did you do with the vacuum lines that run to the ccv?
hey @50sKid
so I did basically the same install, used a different catch can also didn't do the oil drain like you did, my catch can doesn't have the little drain like yours but the rest I did pretty well similar
my question to you is about the pcv valve, I used the Napa one you provided at the bottom, I'm curious is that one of the part numbers you updated? my concern is I get a considerable amount of vacuum in the crank case, I figure that's something I should expect. but I get a bit of suction pulling the dipstick or oil cap while running, I'm concerned there would be residual side effects from that, besides the debatable benefit of the vacuum on the cyl rings.
any feedback will be much appreciated
That amount of vacuum is normal, that's the whole reason doing a mod like this improves your oil consumption. The side effects are if there are ANY vacuum leaks in your valve cover before you do the mod, they will be amplified by the increased vacuum now placed inside the crankcase. I recommend changing your valve cover gasket and grommets to a fresh one.
can i use a one way check valve instead of PCV? (im not running mine back to oilpan)
I installed it works fine. Drive about 40 km 25 miles, and check the tank or container that comes in the decanter and it is almost full. For what is this?
Hi, great content, very helpful. Just one question on catch can, I assume there will be water vapour gathering in the can, so depending on climate you my be getting fair bit of water in your oil?
I ended up removing the ccv system and routing a line from the valve cover port down to the ground to avoid smelling the vapors. I Sealed off the two small ports on top of the intake and put a cap on the oil return line port @ the dip stick.
6 months and probably 5 thousand miles later it seems to be runing ok. I'm no enginer- I dont know how much vacuum goes through the system but I need to know what and how much damage it might cause. # 02 E53 X5 @240k
Purpose of CCV (PCV) system is reduce air pollution (1950), and became a law in 1961 (California) that every car require it to reduce pollution.
BMW (and many other) engineers designed the vacuum system by considering the pressure of CCV to archive the optimal performance/operation.
In practical for car's life that is 20 year, removed the CCV and drain directly to atmosphere does not make significant damage to the car. However, the contamination is damaging entire human population for easily next 100 year, not to mention food contamination (due to soil + air + water + river + ocean = vegetable + meat + fish + drinking water + animals)
hello, you put a PCV valve between the rocker cover to the inlet of the oil vapour recovery and a second valve between the outlet of the catch can and the inlet ?
The problem is that you can't use the vacuum from the rail it must be from the rear intake port or it will be too much and suck oil through the catch can, also the pcv is not needed, if installed sideways the valve will not operate right, that is what your $15 catch can install didn't work.
That's what the PCV valve is for dude, to reduce the air flow through as well as to provide a check valve against pressure going the other way (in case of backfires). It's just a little round ball or plug on the inside with a tiny opening to reduce the flow through it. Who told you they need to be installed upright? I've only ever seen them installed sideways in cars. Doesn't matter which way they go. And it did work, it just sucked and smelled like oil like you were talking about in your video.
The e39 smells because of the terrible unsealable cabin air filter boxes, the e46 does not do that, that clear tube got pulled down from hitting your wire loom and made it leak, you have to make sure it is straight and locked in, I'm not trying to be a Nancy but look at all the cars that go through my channel and never a lean code after the can is installed, also you have to use fuel line or it will collapse on itself under vacuum, and that will push the seals out on the engine , we both can agree that the original CCV does not work, which is more than most BMW shops will admit, they don't want to give up those $600 CCTV replacement jobs I guess lol
I did make sure the clear tube was locked in. I showed proof on video that it DOES leak and showed why. Those things are not air tight, man. Not only do the little teeth leak in between them, the blue "quick-disconnect-like" thing does not seal around itself because it's plastic and not rubber coated. I'm not the only one to discover positive fuel trims after installing one of these. Like I said when I was commenting on your video, it's not enough positive fuel trim to throw a code, it's about half way there. But trust me half way there is enough to cause poorer gas mileage. If those lines were going to collapse they would have done so during idling which is when vacuum is highest. I'm also not the only one to have the problem of oil smell after installing these either. Gotta use a better can, there's no doubt in my mind. I suspect with all the RTV and the o-rings and what not I had some small leak somewhere when the can got hot. I'm not knocking you for what you choose to use or install, btw, I hope you don't take offense. I'm just sharing my experience with this.
Btw I'm gonna have to disagree that the original CCV does not work--it actually works just fine and only needs to be replaced maybe once in a car's life except under extreme conditions like very very cold winters. I recall hearing about one guy who replaces them every year because he's in the Colorado mountains or something, but that's a unusual climate. Just because something that is made out of rubber needed to be replaced after 100k miles doesn't necessarily mean I'm ready to re-engineer it, ya know? Bushings, o-rings, gaskets, it all goes to crap after that long. We'd be replacing everything that is rubber on these cars. My big goal for this was to get the increased vacuum to solve the oil consumption issue for now. After I'm done with my rebuild I'll switch back to the stock CCV. I'm good with the check valve providing me protection in case the diaphragm ever fails and causes too high of a vacuum/suction.
But... I've got the M5 oil separator from the E39 sitting on my bench and I will do an install of that along with testing if it produces fumes, which I know it won't but I'd like to be sure. I honestly think it's gonna be the best way to go because it's got a built in drain valve fitting and is all plastic which will provide more insulation than a metal can.
You do have a point about the 3/8" line that I chose to use. I remember it getting my hand dirty when I pulled it off. Definitely should have used fuel line (I was only planning to keep the install for a week, that's why I used it). Perhaps those lines were oozing oil through them and when everything got hot under the hood, it was baking and causing the smell. I mean, it's possible. Because I did have that catch can sealed up vacuum tight...
You can also get those separators on the x5 with the m62tu, the 540i and 740i use the kind behind the timing chain, but remember those drain to a banjo fitting line at the top of the oil pan and it does not actually sit in the oil on the m62tu , i think it will pull oil through but i will let you experiment and see what you find out, remember the v8 cars still have the ccv diaphragm on the rear of the intake so the vacuum is very little going to the separator
Oil catch can is a nasty name for a part I would want to install on my M54 BMW. I would suggest looking at the German Auto Solutions upgrade. It looks very professional, opposite to an eBay product.
Great hard work though!
Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße aus Deutschland.
When I first came in contact with this CCV system I didn't exactly understand why they engineered it the way it is and I was new to M54 so didn't want to mess with the ccv system heard that it is very sensitive to that. On my car I used the factory parts and replaced them but those tubes and the ccv can under the inlet are pretty bad quality, even the genuine ones will make weird "plastic" noises, wear and get fragile over time. I think they engineered it the way it is to hide that crap :D . I liked how you kept the factory functions with valves but made it a little bit more industrial, and damn it would be cheaper, easier and better to modify it to work like this than to get the oem parts and swap them. Let us know if it makes it any better for you engine :)
Thanks!
50sKid what i need to do i put OCC now i have very strong vaccum
Hey man 3 yrs later would you still delete the ccv and add a catch can system?
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Thank you!!!!!!!! Will wait for description
the catch can i got wont fit a 1/4 male mip adapter to barb... literaly must be like a 7/16 female instead of 1/4 it looks liek it fits perfect just doesnt thread
Hi. Wondered if you can help me. I love ur videos. I installed a catch can. Blocked off oil dipstick. Used the pcv valve you suggested. But im getting a massive vaccume which is stucking oil cap down a lot and maybe causing oil to be sucked up from the sump. Any ideas? Would really appreciate any help you can give. Thanks
Amazing video, how is the setup holding so far? Im about to do this myself...
Nice content. you can't use oil catch can with an external breather right?
Hey, what might happen if i dont use those valves ? Only straight hose ?
Great work ! Very nice videos, thanks for all of them ! :)
Any small vacuum leak becomes a much bigger vacuum leak because you're putting full vacuum on the system.
He ment the pvc valve and non return valve on your return pipe
Soo the hole of the oil separator will be left open? I feel I missed if you capped it off or something also about to top hose is it just left connected?
Hello what is the easiest way to find out if you have a bad oil separator i have a 2004 545i that's smoking. Pcvs are good too out 4 spark plugs no oil plug is dry ?
Hi 50’s kid m ur big fan plss reply me this -i hve installed catch can on my e46 330i yesterday same as u did but i did not use pcv valve and now i hve soo much vacuum dat i hardly can take the cap off and it throw the engine light on i did read the codes about 5 of them all abt lambda sensor bank 1 bank 2 soo my question is -is it all coz i did not use pcv valve Thanks
Fixed needed pcv valve 👍🏻
I changed that and the valve cover gaskets and now my car is smoking heavy, white with smell of oil burning. I changed the intake to throttle body gasket also and noticed that the intake had a lot of oil in it. So I figured that I must have either clogged the separator or the tube is cracked. That's why I ask about the catch can on 4.4. I did change the valve cover on the drivers side too. It had a crack in it and they put jb weld so I changed it. And now it's like a train blowing smoke out.
+Jason Harris - Make sure to install on PCV Side only. Buy another Can with " Larger Hose " for your Breather Side. NOTE: Use " Shortest Hose you can " to eliminate " Starved Air / Blow by ".
Thanks your video.
I have some questions
My E39 is M54 525i engine
Are there any disadvantage to delete original ccv systems after long time test?
For example: oil consumption or air leak problem
Will OBD detect error code after delete ccv systems?
This looks easier than replacing the cvv system
What should we do if we have the m52tu and there’s a vaccum line going from the oil separator to the fuel pressure regulator (if I’m correct) what should we do with that vaccum line
run a longer vacuum line to the back of the intake manifold, there are capped off vacuum fittings which you can use
Prompt please buttered close to the probe have the valve closes to dull or not explained to how to do?
I have watched almost all of your videos and I absolutely use them as a Manuel lol this one however confuses me in the beginning it seems you have the pcv valve in the tube from the valve cover then at the end you say it's in the one from the intake runner please specify witch tube it goes in I am going to install this system today and am confused also I bought all the parts in your description and the catch can is different have you done a vacuum test on this can you recommended a quick reply would be great and again thank you so much for the videos I absolutely love them
I have recently purchased a 2001 e46 with 140,000 miles and I'm getting the p-0171 & P-0174 lean codes. If my intake boots check out without any leaks I'm gonna assume its my ccv system. At what outside temperature would you not recommend putting the drain line back to the dipstick tube. I live in Tennessee and our winter temps rarely get below 30 degrees F. I just don't want the check valve to gummed up with the mayo like buildup from water/oil emulsion. Thanks
If you're worried about that then just skip the drain line altogether and empty the catch can manually. For lean codes, check out my common vacuum leaks video
Do your self the favor and get the cheaper catch can. I’m having the same vacuum issues on the mishimoto universal catch can. Also please make sure you get the proper o rings for the dipstick and clean the mating surfaces of the dipstick. Story of vacuum leaks with my 330. Disa valve vacuum chamber failure. Catch can flaws. Improper dipstick o ring. Day three and finally getting a grip on it.
Absolutly fine! Thank you !!!
another great video..question on M52tu the vacuum line from fuel regulator connects to the CCV ..so if you replace the ccv with oil catch tank what happens to the fuel reg vacuum line ... this vacuum line does not have much vacuum and is for leaking regulator diaphragm isn't it ..maybe connect to oil drain before the one way valve with 3/8 to 1/8 garden Tpiece.
am going to do one of these PCV units but will use the 16 mm inlet and outlet on the catch can so only have one odd size ...great work again
The fuel pressure regulator doesn't need vacuum in order to function, that line is just to route fumes/gas in case the diaphragm ever bursts. You can leave that line disconnected.
great video. this is so much easier on a VW GTi.
So you switch the pcv to the valve cover 3/4 hose, but the switched it back again to the 5/8 tube on the intake with the new pcv?
A little confusing with all the changes
Hi there, looking at catch can on E85 Z4. Do u think I would need a pcv valve if I used the smaller vacuum inlet located on the bulk head end of the inlet manifold? M54 engine.
Thanks in advance....... Tim.
hey man awesome videos great job
is there any plugs to the stock ccv that will throw a code after deleting system ?
or does computer just forget about it ? per say
Thank you for the Video. I did the same installation on my car and when I drive for a test it drive really smooth but start smoking from the tilt pipe so I pull over and check the oil dipstick and nothing on it so I towed back yo my house and find out spark plugs are wet of oil do you thing I installed it wrong. Catch can has an input and output which one goes where? Thank you!