Great job Limoux I have a 1975 rd 350 that I am using K&n filter in stock box. It was suggested that I go up to 140 on main and 27.5 on pilot. Although there was a discrepancy some model years came with 120 main and 25 pilot but my bike came with 105 main and 25 pilot. So by going up to 140 main and 27.5 it was too rich and would not rev past 6 k rpm. I am now using 115 main and the 27.5 pilot going pretty good It will red line now. 3rd position on needle think I may go a little leaner could use little more on low rpm.
Thanks for sharing that info, I may try a few more combinations of jet sizes. I have to look at a separate issue, that may be hampering performance, in the next few days. I'll post that on the channel too
@@RepairandRideout what did u end up running after tuning & getting it where it'll rev all the way ....? Pls help me I've had it up to here with tuning this thing.......!?😵💫
Love the bike I had two of them in the 80s . Keep a eye out for oil pump feed they're not good if you don't check them regularly and use a good oil for premix.
The plugs look good and a good mixture we had the rd 200 and done every thing the same but just did not run write at the top end the reed valves we replaced them with carbine fiber ones. And that made a great difference ran better and at high revs pulled great done a plug check and plugs were a very good colour 👍
@@RepairandRideout You should see an indent on the slides which match up with the hole when you take the screws/bolts out of the body. How you line the indent up with the hole is up to you IE - Just see the indent as it appears in the hole or see the whole indent. Are you also aware that you can 'stroke' the oil pump by adding or removing the shims on the pump rod stop? There is a minimum set stroke but i always increased it a bit as i run K&N filters.
@RepairandRideout As a 60 year old who could probably build a 250/350B/400 from a box of parts without a manual, I have a warm glow watching your videos and listening to the sounds. I have many memories of lining up the slide dots to sync them and also the dots are used when setting the oil pump cable to align with the spigot. I feel your electrical woes too, having made hybrids out of the earlier points/dynamo engines with the later E/F electronic ignition versions. This came easy for me. Always thought it was strange that on the versions with points the coils were 6V rated with a ballast resistor. This came in handy when I modded an RD200 that would never start on the electric start. Just like on a car the ballast was shorted out when the starter was pressed and worked a treat.
Great job Limoux I have a 1975 rd 350 that I am using K&n filter in stock box. It was suggested that I go up to 140 on main and 27.5 on pilot. Although there was a discrepancy some model years came with 120 main and 25 pilot but my bike came with 105 main and 25 pilot. So by going up to 140 main and 27.5 it was too rich and would not rev past 6 k rpm. I am now using 115 main and the 27.5 pilot going pretty good It will red line now. 3rd position on needle think I may go a little leaner could use little more on low rpm.
Thanks for sharing that info, I may try a few more combinations of jet sizes. I have to look at a separate issue, that may be hampering performance, in the next few days. I'll post that on the channel too
@@RepairandRideoutcan u pls share your final settings with me? I'm having issues with my 250....
@@RepairandRideout what did u end up running after tuning & getting it where it'll rev all the way ....? Pls help me I've had it up to here with tuning this thing.......!?😵💫
Love the bike I had two of them in the 80s . Keep a eye out for oil pump feed they're not good if you don't check them regularly and use a good oil for premix.
Hi Brian thanks for your advice. I'll definitely be checking it once the rebuild is done
The plugs look good and a good mixture we had the rd 200 and done every thing the same but just did not run write at the top end the reed valves we replaced them with carbine fiber ones. And that made a great difference ran better and at high revs pulled great done a plug check and plugs were a very good colour 👍
Hi stephen. I have a set of plastic "racing" reeds but refrained from using them as the instructions said that they have a very short life expectancy
Any reason why you didn't use the 'windows' in the carb body to balance the carbs? After all, it is what they are for.
Hi thanks for your comment. That's new to me what's the technique?
@@RepairandRideout You should see an indent on the slides which match up with the hole when you take the screws/bolts out of the body. How you line the indent up with the hole is up to you IE - Just see the indent as it appears in the hole or see the whole indent. Are you also aware that you can 'stroke' the oil pump by adding or removing the shims on the pump rod stop? There is a minimum set stroke but i always increased it a bit as i run K&N filters.
Great advice, everyday is a school day. Thank you @@howhistory5877
@RepairandRideout As a 60 year old who could probably build a 250/350B/400 from a box of parts without a manual, I have a warm glow watching your videos and listening to the sounds. I have many memories of lining up the slide dots to sync them and also the dots are used when setting the oil pump cable to align with the spigot. I feel your electrical woes too, having made hybrids out of the earlier points/dynamo engines with the later E/F electronic ignition versions. This came easy for me.
Always thought it was strange that on the versions with points the coils were 6V rated with a ballast resistor. This came in handy when I modded an RD200 that would never start on the electric start. Just like on a car the ballast was shorted out when the starter was pressed and worked a treat.
I am also running vape Ignition
Pods don't suit the harmonics of two strokes.