Another great video, we're I learn something new every time! How are you planning on dealing with the rust? My truck is not as bad as yours, still having *some original paint. Previous owner is knocking the loose stuff off for me, and I've asked him to spray it with Rust-oleum Rust Reformer, which polymorizes the rust, forming a coating. I'll then treat it yearly with NHOU undercoat. Are you gonna sandblast/spray?
Once the sub-frame and mounts are built the whole thing will get coated with black chassis saver! This will be the 3rd truck frame I’ve done with Chassis saver - I love the stuff!
@@donbennett73 the key is that it is impervious to oxygen, so the rust can not continue, because to turn Iron (Fe) into rust (Fe2O3) - we need oxygen! It’s the same paint I used when I repaired the floor a few episodes back.
Hi, i researched and tested this a few years ago. And the use is to my opinion and serval museum reports is wrong. In short any rust converter will only convert what you see, and at best delay any new rust to form if you block the access to water or oxygen. 100µ bellow the converted rust you will find fresh brown rust. Therefore the very honest german manufacture fertan only recommend their rust converter where you have grinded/sandblasted down to fresh metal and you still see some tiny black pits. Also using it as an basecoat as many us brands recommends is likly the worst thing you can do, as it reabsorbs water link a spounge. It must we washed away, and preferably resanded before painting. experienced car restores will say "if its black it will be back". so if you want to avoid rust - remove it 100% and only use Epoxy paint. it absorbs much less water than acrylic paint(2%).
@@jonjessen Hi Jon - it’s not a rust converter paint, it’s a rust encapsulator paint, and yes, anything that absorbs water will lead to re-rusting. Chassis saver is impermeable to oxygen - which as I am sure you understand is the key to forming rust. (Obviously you can’t form an oxide without the oxygen). Only time will tell, but from what I have done in the past, it’s seems to work.
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Bruce, I just took off the sub -frame on my Fuso and bought the three rear cross members just in case. Next step is sandblasting.
Awesome! - frame paint is very quickly coming to the top of my list!
Another great video, we're I learn something new every time!
How are you planning on dealing with the rust? My truck is not as bad as yours, still having *some original paint. Previous owner is knocking the loose stuff off for me, and I've asked him to spray it with Rust-oleum Rust Reformer, which polymorizes the rust, forming a coating. I'll then treat it yearly with NHOU undercoat.
Are you gonna sandblast/spray?
Once the sub-frame and mounts are built the whole thing will get coated with black chassis saver! This will be the 3rd truck frame I’ve done with Chassis saver - I love the stuff!
@@BruceandKrista How does it work? Change the rust, or are you stripping to bare metal?
*edit, just read up on it, pretty cool stuff!
@@donbennett73 the key is that it is impervious to oxygen, so the rust can not continue, because to turn Iron (Fe) into rust (Fe2O3) - we need oxygen! It’s the same paint I used when I repaired the floor a few episodes back.
Hi, i researched and tested this a few years ago. And the use is to my opinion and serval museum reports is wrong. In short any rust converter will only convert what you see, and at best delay any new rust to form if you block the access to water or oxygen.
100µ bellow the converted rust you will find fresh brown rust. Therefore the very honest german manufacture fertan only recommend their rust converter where you have grinded/sandblasted down to fresh metal and you still see some tiny black pits. Also using it as an basecoat as many us brands recommends is likly the worst thing you can do, as it reabsorbs water link a spounge. It must we washed away, and preferably resanded before painting.
experienced car restores will say "if its black it will be back". so if you want to avoid rust - remove it 100% and only use Epoxy paint. it absorbs much less water than acrylic paint(2%).
@@jonjessen Hi Jon - it’s not a rust converter paint, it’s a rust encapsulator paint, and yes, anything that absorbs water will lead to re-rusting. Chassis saver is impermeable to oxygen - which as I am sure you understand is the key to forming rust. (Obviously you can’t form an oxide without the oxygen). Only time will tell, but from what I have done in the past, it’s seems to work.