Cardone PROTECH #10: Finding The Thief (Practical Voltage Drop Testing)
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- Опубликовано: 24 фев 2023
- #cardone #motorage #voltagedrop #electrical #alternator #chargingsystem #battery #batterytester
If you’re not testing electrical problems correctly, you might easily make the same mistake a lot of techs make and replace an expensive part when it’s not the part’s fault!
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One of those videos that everyr single DIY person should watch and study - even qualified technicians who maybe forgot what they were taught
I have watched your videos quite a few times now and my confidence improves everytime. Thank you for sharing your years of knowledge and experience.
It blows my mind, how many people replace alternators, batteries, and even starters that didn't have anything wrong with them, because they failed to check for voltage drop.
It seems like MOST of the repair calls I've gotten lately, to replace this, that, or the other, turn out to be a bad connection only...
I really appreciate your training videos. Thanks
One of the simplest and fastest tests I ever learned for a first test on an alternator requires no meter at all. The alternator produces charging power by spinning the magnetized rotor in the stator. The steel, axle shaft of the alternator's rotor is also magnetized on a powered rotor. An alternator producing power has a strong, magnetic pull on the tip of a steel screwdriver held near the back, center of the alternator case where the rotor shaft spins in the bearing. No magnetism means no charge is produced by the alternator. Just a 'quick & dirty' test to easily add an early piece of evidence. As Pete shows in the video, solutions come from understanding evidence from all the tests in a diagnostic process.
I never heard of that! I'll have to try that out!
Great video Pete. You are a very good tech. Thank you for the videos.
Excellent thank you it was a little confusing on how to go about this, you made it simple and very clear.
Simple and very precise nice!
Hey Pete nice to see you.Nice presentation I remember when you had Vince Fischelli as guest he referenced both drops between pos to generator and neg to generator neg and allowable drops at 200 and 100 miiivolts stuck in my head since. Once again thanks for all your knowledge CHEERS
SO RIGHT THESE MOMENTS HAVE ALSO STUCK IN MY HEAD AS WELL BROTHER.! AND YES THANKS AGAIN PETE..
Voltage drops can be a real problem in many voltage circuits, but the most I've seen are in the cranking and charging circuits.
Before I retired, there were these two 3 axle tractors for the Hazmat Group. One had an interesting voltage drop problem. It had 2 GP31S batteries in parallel, with 4 Double Ought ( 4ea "00") size cables from the batteries. The 2 red "00" cables went from the Positive battery posts to the cranking motor solenoid "BAT" terminal. The 2 black "00" cables went from the Negative battery posts to the cranking motor Brush Plate end cover.
At one of the batteries a 4 gauge Red Positive cable went to a fuse, circuit breaker, and relay box. That battery fed the truck it's electrical power for all the controls and accessories.
One time the truck started to have some very strange electrical problems especially the electronic speedometer. The shop went went so far as replace the speedometer. Same problem.
One day our lead man started to look at it then asked me to check it out.
First thing I saw with the engine running was one of the battery's was reading 14.2 V and the other was reading 12.5 V.
I started grabbing and pulling on cables at the battery posts. They were tight and the crimps were also tight. Next I made sure the two Positive cables at the starter solenoid were tight and crimped properly. They were.
When I pulled on the 2 Negative cables at the starter brush end plate one of the Negative cable's came right out of the terminal it had been crimped to! This problem had been like this from the factory!
Being a diesel engine in the truck, there's always some vibration when the engine is running which probably added to the cable coming loose in it's terminal.
The cable length was exact so just a repair at that end was not possible
I installed a brand new fabricated Double Ought cable from the battery to the starter end plate. The other original cable was tight. Started the engine, after a few minutes both batteries read 13.7 V at their terminals.
Problem solved, all electrical in the truck worked as designed and no more intermittent problems while driving.
It took about 2 years before the problem was found, I don't know if it was sent back to the dealer for warranty repair. I do know the driver complained about the gauges and running lights especially when the trailer was connected to the truck.
A simple little thing caused quite a bit of downtime.
I run two batteries in both my '90 Ranger, and my '79 GMC.I upgraded the alternators in both trucks. Keeping all connections right and tight kept me from having problems over the years. The Volvos I drove OTR had starting problems due to loose connections to the point I was taking each truck I was given to the mechanics barn if I had any starting problems. Usually it was battery or ground connections that caused hard or no starting conditions. I kept tools with me on the road all the time as you could never trust the company to get a service truck to you in time.
Great stuff 🤩🙌
Refreshing course, nice
Always make sure all grounds and all connection points are clean and tight. If you do this, half to three quarters of your problems will not exist. Always clean the top of your battery off every time you check your engine oil, that will break any conductive salt or chemical trails on your battery and let it rest easily. You will keep the battery from high resistive drains that shorten battery and alternator life and save you money in the long run. Do that on your better half's car, too. He/She might thank you someday.
Thanks so much
Hi Pete. I do not typically offer many comments in response to RUclips videos, but I feel compelled to do so now. I have watched, literally, many dozens of videos on electricity, electrical systems, and electrical diagnosis on RUclips, and I have found yours to be superior to all others that I have seen. Far too many presenters fail to include proper context in their descriptions, are incomplete in their coverage of the material, or use inaccurate and imprecise language. The topic of electricity is very technical, and often confusing for many people. Consequently, presenters on the topic must be very careful regarding how they present and how they speak, both of which you do very commendably. Again, it's my opinion that your electrical series videos are easily the best best on RUclips. Keep up the great work, and keep the videos coming!
I want too a Fluke 88V😊
Pete, I am a little confused. Are you saying that you should have some kind of a voltage reading at the reference point and that 0.0 is a problem also? The reading should have a low milivolt reading and that is normal? The zero reading would also indicate a problem?
There should be some energy loss to overcome the small resistance the cable offers. A perfect 0.0v reading indicates an open circuit.
thanks Pete, I knew I could count on you for the answer
Would a continuity test from the B+ on the alternator to the battery show the same thing?
No. If any contact was present, statically it would test good. Always test dynamically whenever possible.
@@MotorAgeMagazine thanks
No because a ohm meter can read continuity through a single Strand of wire. Voltage drop testing is the only way to go.
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PROFICIENT Sir Pete Meier Motor Age
My Mentor Sir Pete Meier Motor Age
Take care and have a great weekend with all your family around you
PROFICIENT Sir Pete Meier Motor Age From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 19:48pm Good Evening
Where are you located at? I have a problem with my truck's idle that no one has figured out where the problem is. After replacing my engine everything was fine until 7,000 miles later and now I have an idle around 500 to 600 RPM and it's a little rough. I don't want to take a long trip with this truck without finding the problem that could cause the loss of another motor. The first engine ended up with 3 bent push rods. The throttle body has been replaced 3 times now with a new GM part each time. Nothing has changed. I did take it for a ride once where the engine idled perfect and then when I stopped at a store and restarted it, the engine idle went right back to low after the beginning of the trip it was idling at 700 rpm like it should be. Part of the EVAP system has already been replaced and the BCM was also replaced when the new Engine, Transmission, Transfer Case, Front differential, Wiring Harness, and most sensors were also replaced.