Great set of videos on the Samsung 267. I've had all these problems and I've fixed it but without long term success. The tab extender looks like a winner. Thanks!
Hey Jake, tried all the fixes, even bought a replacement heating coil to no avail so I decided to just wrap a Frost King Electric Water Pipe Heat Cable (3 ft) around the coil where the non working defrost unit is. It doesn't interfere with replacing the cover and is not it the way of anything. The wire and plug sticks out of the bottom of the evaporator cover and sits in the fridge below the crisper drawers. I use the panel codes you provided and just shut it off on Saturdays, run an extension cord in, plug in the heat cable and leave it for 2 or 3 hours. Fridge maintains its temp well and I haven't had any ice buildup in months. Thanks for your diligence and hope this solution helps when all else fails. It's a manual process but not a big deal. The Heat Cable is under $20.
What I am going to show you in the next video to come out in the next couple days is not going to be a "FINAL FIX", but it should at least prevent it from freezing up as often. (like every 6 months instead of every month). It has been working for me, and I hope it will work for everyone else. Its a very simple and inexpensive solution. Please click the little BELL, next to the subscribe button so you don't miss it. I have to break out the camera, record it, edit it, and then upload it. I will start tonight and hopefully have it uploaded in the next day or two.
jakeguitar01 why don't you just solve the drain problem and level your fridge it's supposed to be tilted back some so the doors shut properly and it also let's the water drain off before it freezes again
Thanks so much with the excellent videos on removing the plate from the back of the fridge...I've been tugging on it for 2 days with no luck. I thought it might be the ice...so now I'll just let the ice melt before I go all hog wild on pulling it off....Thanks again!!
Thanks for all your videos on this subject. I have the same model which drips water onto our floor. I will give this a try. I appreciate the time you put into this.
You can also use a 2 1/2 “ or less piece of 8 or 10 gauge copper ground wire and bend it over the element and into the drain. It will retain the heat longer when in defrost mode than aluminum
Thank you VERY MUCH for this wonderful series. We have been dealing with the same issue for years ourselves. It is shameful that Samsung won't make things right for their customers. I look forward to your next video so we can solve this problem. If you end up using the repair kit successfully, please let us know. Thank you again!
I will. I do have what seems to be a fairly easy and inexpensive solution to this problem. I will be posting the next installment of the video soon. The thing is, I have not had to take my refrigerator apart in a very long time to fix it. This tells me I am on to something. I will keep you posted... (don't trash the fridge just yet!)
I echo Deanna's gratitude for your series. You certainly do have a lot of patience. Have you had to take the cover off to fix the icing problem since your last video?
I agree with John Galt. I started having issues with my SAMSUNG Refrigerator about 3 or 4 months ago. Started getting water in bottom under the slide out tray. Finally, after I started throwing away fresh food due to it not cooling, I tried removing the back panel. Completely Frozen. I am trying to defrost it for now, but there is no way I'm going to keep it. It will do it again. SAMSUNG made it, knew it had problems, and should fix under warranty. Samsung won't get any more of my money. Your video was well done though.
Make a shepherds crook out of a piece of bare #14-12 copper wire. Hang it over the heater element and down into the drain. Have done this often on other makes. Also, the primary problem is incomplete or no defrost. Control board /tstat terminating defrost too soon? Element open? The paper towel insulation idea is blocking air flow over the coil.
Baster tip is pro. I purchased the aftermarket aluminum conductor but didn’t work. Maybe it was because I couldn’t clamp it on firm enough, didn’t have the right tool. But this try I used a thermal conductor pad that I bought for about five bucks. I put it between the heater coil and aluminum. Fingers crossed!
This is a permanent solution, so seat tight and enjoy my analysis. The root cause of the problem is ice built up and then clogged up the cold air vent holes and jammed the fan. There are multiple reasons for ice build up: 1. Where did the ice come from? To minimize the ice we need to keep moisture inside to the minimum, which means covering up glasses of water, milk, opened sod cans, soup, cut open water melon, mango, fruits, wet vegetable, raw meat, etc. . The humidity inside the refrigerator is quite low, and so anythings that can be dried up will release moiture and this will form ice, and too much ice will out win the defrost heater short heating cycle (short cycle to achieve the Energy Star) and the net result is a slowly ice build up. 2. The other moisture source is the bottom Pantry tray that collected water. You need to pull out the pantry and clean this bottom tray every month or so, or after a spill from trays above. Any liquid spill not cleaned up will ended up as ice inside the fan box -- no magic about this. 3. The bottom drainage hole is clogged up with ice. Once this happened, every degrost cycle will release the water down into the bottom Pantry and pool there. This water then evaporate and form ice inside the fan box eventually. (Hint: to melt the drain hole ice fast, fill up the "pond" above the hole with water then place a 15 watts soldering iron hot tip into the water and make sure to keep the hot tip from directly touching the plastic part. Add more water if the "pond is dried up. The hot water will melt the ice and clear up the drain hole. You need to keep an eye on this and remove the iron as soon as the hole is cleared. So how do we solve these problems? It is unrealistic to have zero moisture inside the refrigerator, but if we can keep it to the minimum as I pointed out in (1) above, and with a modification to the design that prevents the drain hole clogged up then the problem will be eliminated permanently. To solve the problem (3), I used a 6 inches long, 3mm diameter copper (or aluminum) wire, wrapped around the black heater pipe (just above the drain hole and running across left to right) 3 turns, and extended the wire down into the drain hole. If you don't have large gauge wire then just use two smaller gauge wires, wrap them on the left and right side of the heater pipe and extend the wires down into the drain hole about 1.5 to 2 inches. I used to fix the iced up fan every year, but after implementing the 3 steps above, it has been running over 2 years and still no problem. My unit is RF266AB. Brian
We tried adding the extender wire to the drain. It only worked over the winter. The coils are iced over again after about 3 months, so this fix wasn't a permanent fix for us.
I might be crazy but I am buying a fridge with this issue as it is a very attractive price. I can almost guarantee it has the issue the price is so good and the owner only had it a few years. I will try this from the start and hopefully never have common freeze-up issue. Thanks in advance!
Darcy Roy - to fix this issue you must replace the fringe with an LG. You’ll have it for sale in no time. Samsung has no business building refrigerators.
Thank you for the info. I had what sounded like a bearing going out in the fan. So i went online and watched your videos. Most of them. Then took the fridge apart. There was ice buildup in the fan housing. It works for now. Ill replace the defroster temp. control sensor and see if that helps.
I've had my first problem with mine icing over. I got rid of it all and put it back together but damn if I had as many issues as you did I would have bought a new one a long time ago! Screw taking it apart every few months!!
Thanks for all the videos and hard work. do you know which one is the defrost wire? you mentioned on the top, one is for the light and the other is for something else. where's the defrost wire?
Why these freeze-ups occur in so many Samsung refrigerators is the result of an engineering flaw. The evaporator fan(s) are not large enough to move the right amount of volume of cold air. Since the air cannot be removed fast enough, the result is an evaporator freeze up. Bear in mind, when an evaporator freezes up, it could be for many reasons. A plugged drain is only one of them.
Jake thanks for the videos. I'm new to 'fridge repair but I've never had a Samsung 'Fridge either :-) Your video gave me confidence to do the repair right. My problem was the evaporator fan. BTW, it took almost 5 hours to defrost the Evaporator Coil and get the back cover off using a blow dryer and fan. I just wonder if I would have called a repair man would they have charged me 5 hours worth of labor while it defrosted?
Samsung has a repair kit for this problem. Comes with an upgraded drain tube for the outlet of the drain, also has some seals and a longer clip that goes on the heater. Just extending that clip does not solve the problem. The coils on these Samsung's ice up because the defrost sensors are failing at a very high rate. If you have a coil that's iced up you need to change that sensor. Also it looks like you've damaged the styrofoam on your evaporator cover. That styrofoam directs the air flow across the evaporator and the aluminum at the bottom of the cover directs the defrost water toward the drain. When the cover gets significant damage it should be replaced.
I have the Samsung RF323TEDBSR Refrigerator, a later model (?) than many here, double french doors, with the ability to do a control panel manual defrost. It started making lots of noise this month (fan on ice), about 2 years into its life. I have no problem with water under the drawers. I was unable to do anything but manual defrost (which only solved the fan on ice problem for a day or two) till I found your great videos. Thank you!!! When I got the back cover removed, (complicated by the location of the water filter in the middle under the lower glass shelf) I found the upper right area only clogged with ice, including the perimeter of the fan. The rest of the coils were clear, including the drain. An hour w a hairdryer got it back in good working order… till it ices up again. So I am wondering with many others what a user permanent fix could be. I reading through many of your posts, I found this paragraph on your fourth video responses: John Carbonara1 year ago Pro technician here, The Refrigerator is built by Samsung. Several fixes for this problem… If there is ice only forming on the upper right portion of the coil then replace the thermistor, it has just lost its value slightly and is not staying in defrost long enough for the coil to thaw properly. It looks like a white bullet shaped object with two yellow wires and it clips on the evaporator tubing in the upper right hand corner. I managed to find links to a couple of Samsung service bulletins on this issue, one from 2014 and a subsequent one from 2015. (Google: Samsung service bulletin ASC20140703001) Both identify the thermistor as a part of the problem, including its position, and its resilience. The 2015 bulletin says if it has been imbedded in ice, it should be replaced. On this thread, I notice the comment here that heads in this direction as well: "The coils on these Samsung's ice up because the defrost sensors are failing at a very high rate. If you have a coil that's iced up you need to change that sensor." Sounds to me like the thermistor fix will have to be a part of any permanent solution. It is certainly on my ‘to do’ list for this fridge, especially since my drain was open (and no water below my trays) and the ice was located in the upper right area only (fan noise was my only evidence of a problem).
Hi Geoff, I have the same fridge as you, RF323TEDBSR, and also have the loud noise and have spent the day researching the issue. I haven't taken the fridge apart yet to inspect it, but plan on ordering the service bulletin kit and the defrost sensor (thermostat) and having them on hand before I start the attempted repair. Since it is quite a project, I hope to be able to completely resolve it in one shot. Do you know what the part number is for the defrost sensor (thermostat) for our particular fridge? I'm assuming that the defrost sensor/thermostat/thermistor are all different names for the same item, correct?
Sean Richter the part number for the defrost sensor you need for the model you listed is DA32-10104N. Also this is a link for the service bulletin regarding this problem, if this link doesn't work you can google ASC20140703001 and you should find it. www.encompassparts.com/shop/model_research_docs/?file=/SMG/sb/ServiceBulletin_ASC20140703001_V41.pdf
Thank you PickerJimS! Ordering now. Will attempt the repair in the next couple weeks. I have my fingers crossed that this loud noise will be gone from my life soon :)
Sean, I used also the service bulletin that PickerJimS cited. My problem was "Symptom 2" on that sheet. I found the user coils iced, AND ALSO found ice on the inside of the fan housing imbedded in the cover I removed; had to melt both the inside of that cover and the ice on the coils. Be sure to check the cover, too, for ice! Also, the bulletin made an emphasis, with photos, on the placement of the new sensor: "If the defrost sensor was imbedded in ice, replace it. When attaching the defrost sensor, make sure the sensor faces LEFT." I was careful to do that. My last repair of this is a month ago. So far, so good.
If you put it in first defrost you should be able to see if the heater works i am thinking about using a heating pad with magnets right behind it and a timer it's a thought or turn it on and fridge off when it freezes so I don't have to disassemble everytime
Great show! I got this defrosted for 2 days now and got the hole unclogged because water was dripping down to the pantry compartment. I noticed that the bottom middle slot where a screw goes has some drops of water dripping through while I am using a hair dryer to completely dry up the coils. Strange but when I place my hand on the back of the fridge where that slot is located for the screws, it seems cold still. I assume there is ice still formed in that location. I will continuing defrosting it till tomorrow which is day 3 because there was quite a lot of ice formation. I had the RF263 model since 2014 which is not bad at all. Some of the coils have been bent possible from the ice formation. Should I try to straighten them back or leave them as is? Thanks for the support! 🙏👌
With significant ice build up behind the refrigerator back panel, I chose to defrost & dry out things overnight before taking anything apart (including the back panel removal). "there was so much ice it had popped the plastic cover off the top panel screw access hole... and ice was pushing through" > I removed all items from the refrigerator... utilizing the bottom freezer compartment for some food storage (this will help to preserve things while the power is off) > Unplug the refrigerator from the outlet... very important! > Remove the glass shelving and set aside > Take a small table lamp (not your best one) and equip it with a 60-75 watt incandescent light bulb > Stand the table lamp in the center of the refrigerator food compartment > The insulated freezer containing frozen food should remain cold during this process... as it's pretty well insulated. > Shut the refrigerator door(s)... it will get pretty warm inside, which is what you want. > Wait a good number of hours. (I chose to leave it overnight) When I subsequently pulled the panel off to install the "heater wire in the drain" fix... EVERYTHING behind the back panel was bone dry & defrosted. I used boiling water poured down the center drain to verify the unobstructed flow down into the evaporator pan underneath the refrigerator. (you can hear it dripping below). With the problem now "fixed" (I hope)... we'll be keeping a close eye on things and hoping for success! BTW... Hey SAMSUNG: You blew it with this one! I can't believe so many customers experienced this problem, and there hasn't been a recall. In the old days refrigerators lasted decades (made in the USA). Mine is less than 2 years old with this issue.
Guys. Here's the fix. Get the new design Samsung drain hole defroster. Its on eBay for 5 to 6 bucks. Sombody has already posted the model number in the comments. I pushed the old tab down to the right because that's the side that had more frost. And 2, i moved the defrost sensor(that small back cylinder thing zip tied on the left). I cut the tie and relocated it to the top center of the fins, where all the ice builds up. Haven't had any problems for months(unless people keep leaving the doors open!) In that case i run the Forced Defrost mode before i go to bed and its better by morning.
Would you have any testing procedures for the main control board on the back? I think that would eliminate some time for repair. Testing procedures I mean for each component on the board.
If you run into circuit board issues, try a place called Circuit Board Medics. They've saved my ass several times and they stand behind their work. If you're having this icing problem with your "twin cooling" Samsung, then listen to these folks. I just defrosted mine and did the heavy guage copper wire wrap with several inches down the drain hole. Hope to hell this is the golden fix...
Samsung RS263TDPN refrigerator, Freezer wont cool, fridge side is working, no frost formation on freezer or fridge coils. Sir what do you think the problem is?
In an attempt to install the longer clip onto the heater coil, I have removed the ice, squeezed hot water with the turkey baster inside the fridge itself, but it is still not draining. I then removed the lower panel on the back and identified the 2 drain tubes that drain into the pan. I removed them and inspected them. I was hoping for a big splooge of dirty water but no, they 2 drain tubes seem to be working as designed. I then took a flexible plastic tube and was able to stick it up about 18 inches. I sucked and blew on both and it seems like they are clear. I did the same from the inside of the fridge and again was able to get it down a bit over 12 inches and blew air in there but I don't think it reached the other side. somewhere between 'here and there' there is a kink or a blockage that is preventing the water from draining. Getting frustrated to say the least.
This video doesn't show HOW to remove the panel without damaging the Styrofoam baffle which is actually molded air ducts that direct air flow properly. This can't break--the Styrofoam is a functional part of your fridge! First off all, turn OFF the fridge. Using a hair dryer, direct it toward each and every hole/slot in that rear panel. It might take 15 minutes or more if there is a lot of ice build-up in the rear of that panel. Picture the ice hugging both the defroster parts AND the Styrofoam... it will grab them tightly together. After you are certain ALL the ice is melted (the water will stop dripping), look for little raised, molded triangles (arrows, hard to see white on white!) along BOTH sides of the panel. These mark the pressure points where the plastic tabs underneath hold the panel onto the back wall. Using a flat bladed, stiff putty knife, push firmly but gently inward at each triangle point (just behind the front panel along the side behind the arrows). Do the same to each tab, releasing each one by one. (I seem to remember there are two on each side). IF THERE IS ANY RESISTANCE TO PULLING THE PANEL FORWARD, THERE MIGHT BE MORE ICE! If so, hair dryer it again and try to melt everything back there. ONE MORE THING ABOUT THIS VIDEO HACK: In my opinion, this gentleman's fix won't last. The way this metal tab going down into the drain hole works is by transferring heat from the defroster heating element to the aluminum tab, then melting ice in the hold. If you notice in the video, this tab is very loose where it connects to the heating element. Conduction of heat will be poor. ...... Instead of his fix, I took a length of #14 gauge bare copper wire about 12" long, and using a needlenose pliers, I folded the wire in half first and then twisted the closed end (leaving the cut ends loose) into a tight twisted "tail" about 3" long. Bending the loose ends apart, I made a "T" shaped wire with the twisted 3" part as the leg of the T. I then shoved the leg of the T down the drain hole. I then took each loose end of the wire and wrapped and then coiled each end (right and left) around the defroster heating element. I used both my fingers and the needlenose pliers to lace it in and around, pulling it as tight as possible around the heating element as I worked along. In the end, you should wind up with the twisted leg of the copper T about 2-3" down into the drain hole (much deeper than Samsuck's 3/8" with that little tab)... and each bare "arm" of the T should be tightly wrapped around the coil on both the right and left sides of that tab. The copper wire will conduct heat much better than that thin tab of aluminum and keep the drain hole ice free. This will hopefully solve the problem of water or ice pooling under the deli drawers.... AND you won't hear that dreaded fan-scraping sound every time the defroster ices up behind the rear panel. (The classic sound is loud when the door is closed and stops when you open the door... a sure sound that ice is building up behind that panel!) I did my repair this way and so far, there the defroster has been ice free for about 1 year to today's date. Samsung's "new an improved tab" won't work! In fact, NONE of the repairs Samsung gets people to spend their $$$ on will ever totally fix these fridges. There are Samsung service bulletins dating back to 2007 with such problems... all KNOWN BY SAMSUNG FOR YEARS, yet they continue to seel the same defective, poorly designed units! Good luck! Tell your friends and family NEVER TO BUY SAMSUNG PRODUCTS. For more info and other people experiencing problems with their Samsucks fridges, visit the Samsung Refrigerator RECALL NOW page on Facebook: facebook.com/groups/1520337151601316/
The Model used was similar but different. mine had a screw and it came off easy, after I destroyed the seals and cracked the cover & two hours of trying to get to the coils. Plus I did not get the correct temperature setting I requested and paid the expert for. Can you text or email me the settings? My Model : RF18HFENBSR SAMSUNG I RATE a 4 I look forward to your reply.
If you don’t put the cover back on will the refrigerator function Normally? I am thawing mine out as I write this. Thankfully I have a second fridge in the garage. I lost two gallons of milk. The digital reading said 36 but I bought an old school thermometer and it was reading 55.
I had the same issue but the reason why mine had built up ice on the Evaporator Coil was because the fan had died. It took me almost 5 hours to defrost the ice and get the back cover off using a blow dryer. However I then ordered the fan online $23 it took 5 days to arrive, so I put the fridge back together without the back panel. It will get cold but the bottom of the fridge will freeze (32 or below) while the top will be around 45 - 50. Because there is no circulation. Fan arrived defrosted the coil in 10 minutes, put everything back together and it's working great.
Can you use a clip drain like this? www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-clip-drain-evap-da61-06796a-ap5579885.html# I was told it's to be installed on the defrost heater, under the evaporator coils. Here is an article i found- www.appliancerepairlesson.com/2013/12/13/samsung-refrigerator-leaking-into-crisper-drawer/ Is it serving the same purpose?
Well, it has only been about a week. I would not expect this samsung refrigerator drain hole to freeze up that quickly. I will surely let everyone know the next time I have to take it apart...
I am having this issue, glad I found your story. I know the problem is elevated when the reefer door is open longer than it needs to be or should be in normal operation. It's a gender thing. I'm wondering if the 'system' isn't properly configured to handle this or if it's really a poorly engineered piece of equipment.
What I am going to show you in the next video to come out in the next couple days is not going to be a "FINAL FIX", but it should at least prevent it from freezing up as often. (like every 6 months instead of every month). It has been working for me, and I hope it will work for everyone else. Its a very simple and inexpensive solution. Please click the little BELL, next to the subscribe button so you don't miss it. I have to break out the camera, record it, edit it, and then upload it. I will start tonight and hopefully have it uploaded in the next day or two.
so we fixed ours about 2-3 years ago and now today we are defrosting the back again. It is frozen up again. Any one have a repeat? We added the coil to extend the heating 2-3 years ago. Samsung RF263beae is nothing but junk
i'm still working on it. It seemed to generate much less ice with what I have done, but there was still some ice. I will let everyone know what it is soon enough if it works...
About the time you get to part 27, you can call yourself and this SamJunk frig, Frankenstein. Like you I doggedly keep at the task of dealing with the worst refrigerator ever manufactured. Sad thing is that it isn't even any good to put in the garage, where it would probably require a defrost ever 24 hours, in my south Florida humidity.
I am facing the same issue with those poorly designed samsung refrigerators. It's a 3 years old one and it's the 2nd time I am repeating this procedure you thought here - thanks a ton! Anyway, look at the pic and see how I am melting the ice with my own technic instagram.com/p/Bb4s-RlnvTa/
I have replaced the motherboard, heating element, wrapped copper wire around the bottom of the heating element and inserted the wire into the drain hole and it still freezers up and makes noise. Two service calls probably $500.00 dollars into this and no luck. I hate this refrigerator. BTW, its unplugged now because I couldn't stand the noise any longer.
Wow, even the mother board wasn't the answer. Don't throw away the fridge yet, I think I am on to a decent solution to the problem of icing on the coil.
I too have this piece of crap refrigerator and like you, I have had to defrost and try putting copper wrapped around the heater and down through the drain (which I believe is the root cause of the problem). This time I am going to cover the hole with aluminum tape, direct the drain to a shallow pan beneath the drawer and empty as often as needed. Can’t wait till this machine dies so I can buy a GE fridge. $3000 for a fridge that should have been recalled. SAMSUNG YOU DROPPED THE BALL ON US CONSUMERS. SHAME ON YOU!!!
You're the most patient person on the planet... I'm just going to junk mine. Total crap!
Brother, you are a trooper. I set my Samsung fridge on the curb ages ago. I’m mechanically inclined, but life is too short.
Great set of videos on the Samsung 267. I've had all these problems and I've fixed it but without long term success. The tab extender looks like a winner. Thanks!
Hey Jake, tried all the fixes, even bought a replacement heating coil to no avail so I decided to just wrap a Frost King Electric Water Pipe Heat Cable (3 ft) around the coil where the non working defrost unit is. It doesn't interfere with replacing the cover and is not it the way of anything. The wire and plug sticks out of the bottom of the evaporator cover and sits in the fridge below the crisper drawers. I use the panel codes you provided and just shut it off on Saturdays, run an extension cord in, plug in the heat cable and leave it for 2 or 3 hours. Fridge maintains its temp well and I haven't had any ice buildup in months. Thanks for your diligence and hope this solution helps when all else fails. It's a manual process but not a big deal. The Heat Cable is under $20.
What I am going to show you in the next video to come out in the next couple days is not going to be a "FINAL FIX", but it should at least prevent it from freezing up as often. (like every 6 months instead of every month). It has been working for me, and I hope it will work for everyone else. Its a very simple and inexpensive solution. Please click the little BELL, next to the subscribe button so you don't miss it.
I have to break out the camera, record it, edit it, and then upload it. I will start tonight and hopefully have it uploaded in the next day or two.
You can add this clip if you want, but it wont stop the ice from forming. On my fridge the clip was immersed in a 2 inch block of ice....
jakeguitar01 why don't you just solve the drain problem and level your fridge it's supposed to be tilted back some so the doors shut properly and it also let's the water drain off before it freezes again
Thanks so much with the excellent videos on removing the plate from the back of the fridge...I've been tugging on it for 2 days with no luck. I thought it might be the ice...so now I'll just let the ice melt before I go all hog wild on pulling it off....Thanks again!!
Thanks for all your videos on this subject. I have the same model which drips water onto our floor. I will give this a try. I appreciate the time you put into this.
You can also use a 2 1/2 “ or less piece of 8 or 10 gauge copper ground wire and bend it over the element and into the drain. It will retain the heat longer when in defrost mode than aluminum
I used the repair kit and so far so good. Thanks again
Where do you get a repair kit
Very detail and clear video for fixing problems.
It is great five star.
Thank you VERY MUCH for this wonderful series. We have been dealing with the same issue for years ourselves. It is shameful that Samsung won't make things right for their customers. I look forward to your next video so we can solve this problem. If you end up using the repair kit successfully, please let us know. Thank you again!
I will. I do have what seems to be a fairly easy and inexpensive solution to this problem. I will be posting the next installment of the video soon. The thing is, I have not had to take my refrigerator apart in a very long time to fix it. This tells me I am on to something. I will keep you posted... (don't trash the fridge just yet!)
I echo Deanna's gratitude for your series. You certainly do have a lot of patience. Have you had to take the cover off to fix the icing problem since your last video?
I agree with John Galt. I started having issues with my SAMSUNG Refrigerator about 3 or 4 months ago. Started getting water in bottom under the slide out tray. Finally, after I started throwing away fresh food due to it not cooling, I tried removing the back panel. Completely Frozen. I am trying to defrost it for now, but there is no way I'm going to keep it. It will do it again. SAMSUNG made it, knew it had problems, and should fix under warranty. Samsung won't get any more of my money. Your video was well done though.
Make a shepherds crook out of a piece of bare #14-12 copper wire. Hang it over the heater element and down into the drain. Have done this often on other makes.
Also, the primary problem is incomplete or no defrost. Control board /tstat terminating defrost too soon? Element open? The paper towel insulation idea is blocking air flow over the coil.
Baster tip is pro. I purchased the aftermarket aluminum conductor but didn’t work. Maybe it was because I couldn’t clamp it on firm enough, didn’t have the right tool. But this try I used a thermal conductor pad that I bought for about five bucks. I put it between the heater coil and aluminum. Fingers crossed!
This is a permanent solution, so seat tight and enjoy my analysis.
The root cause of the problem is ice built up and then clogged up the cold air vent holes and jammed the fan. There are multiple reasons for ice build up:
1. Where did the ice come from? To minimize the ice we need to keep moisture inside to the minimum, which means covering up glasses of water, milk, opened sod cans, soup, cut open water melon, mango, fruits, wet vegetable, raw meat, etc. . The humidity inside the refrigerator is quite low, and so anythings that can be dried up will release moiture and this will form ice, and too much ice will out win the defrost heater short heating cycle (short cycle to achieve the Energy Star) and the net result is a slowly ice build up.
2. The other moisture source is the bottom Pantry tray that collected water. You need to pull out the pantry and clean this bottom tray every month or so, or after a spill from trays above. Any liquid spill not cleaned up will ended up as ice inside the fan box -- no magic about this.
3. The bottom drainage hole is clogged up with ice. Once this happened, every degrost cycle will release the water down into the bottom Pantry and pool there. This water then evaporate and form ice inside the fan box eventually. (Hint: to melt the drain hole ice fast, fill up the "pond" above the hole with water then place a 15 watts soldering iron hot tip into the water and make sure to keep the hot tip from directly touching the plastic part. Add more water if the "pond is dried up. The hot water will melt the ice and clear up the drain hole. You need to keep an eye on this and remove the iron as soon as the hole is cleared.
So how do we solve these problems? It is unrealistic to have zero moisture inside the refrigerator, but if we can keep it to the minimum as I pointed out in (1) above, and with a modification to the design that prevents the drain hole clogged up then the problem will be eliminated permanently.
To solve the problem (3), I used a 6 inches long, 3mm diameter copper (or aluminum) wire, wrapped around the black heater pipe (just above the drain hole and running across left to right) 3 turns, and extended the wire down into the drain hole. If you don't have large gauge wire then just use two smaller gauge wires, wrap them on the left and right side of the heater pipe and extend the wires down into the drain hole about 1.5 to 2 inches.
I used to fix the iced up fan every year, but after implementing the 3 steps above, it has been running over 2 years and still no problem. My unit is RF266AB.
Brian
Thanks for the info. I just did this fix on an inherited Samsung, same model. I hope it works, and I hope yours is still going strong!
We tried adding the extender wire to the drain. It only worked over the winter. The coils are iced over again after about 3 months, so this fix wasn't a permanent fix for us.
I might be crazy but I am buying a fridge with this issue as it is a very attractive price. I can almost guarantee it has the issue the price is so good and the owner only had it a few years. I will try this from the start and hopefully never have common freeze-up issue. Thanks in advance!
Darcy Roy - to fix this issue you must replace the fringe with an LG. You’ll have it for sale in no time. Samsung has no business building refrigerators.
Thank you for the info. I had what sounded like a bearing going out in the fan. So i went online and watched your videos. Most of them. Then took the fridge apart. There was ice buildup in the fan housing. It works for now. Ill replace the defroster temp. control sensor and see if that helps.
I've had my first problem with mine icing over. I got rid of it all and put it back together but damn if I had as many issues as you did I would have bought a new one a long time ago! Screw taking it apart every few months!!
Thanks for all the videos and hard work. do you know which one is the defrost wire? you mentioned on the top, one is for the light and the other is for something else. where's the defrost wire?
Why these freeze-ups occur in so many Samsung refrigerators is the result of an engineering flaw. The evaporator fan(s) are not large enough to move the right amount of volume of cold air. Since the air cannot be removed fast enough, the result is an evaporator freeze up. Bear in mind, when an evaporator freezes up, it could be for many reasons. A plugged drain is only one of them.
Jake thanks for the videos. I'm new to 'fridge repair but I've never had a Samsung 'Fridge either :-) Your video gave me confidence to do the repair right. My problem was the evaporator fan. BTW, it took almost 5 hours to defrost the Evaporator Coil and get the back cover off using a blow dryer and fan. I just wonder if I would have called a repair man would they have charged me 5 hours worth of labor while it defrosted?
Great video series! Thanks for your perseverance. We have the Samsung RF266 very similar to yours.
Turkey baster, genius idea!
Hi Jake wondered if you ever saw of the thread about leveling the refrigerator slightly to the rear wondered if you had ever use that idea
Samsung has a repair kit for this problem. Comes with an upgraded drain tube for the outlet of the drain, also has some seals and a longer clip that goes on the heater. Just extending that clip does not solve the problem. The coils on these Samsung's ice up because the defrost sensors are failing at a very high rate. If you have a coil that's iced up you need to change that sensor. Also it looks like you've damaged the styrofoam on your evaporator cover. That styrofoam directs the air flow across the evaporator and the aluminum at the bottom of the cover directs the defrost water toward the drain. When the cover gets significant damage it should be replaced.
I have the Samsung RF323TEDBSR Refrigerator, a later model (?) than many here, double french doors, with the ability to do a control panel manual defrost. It started making lots of noise this month (fan on ice), about 2 years into its life. I have no problem with water under the drawers.
I was unable to do anything but manual defrost (which only solved the fan on ice problem for a day or two) till I found your great videos. Thank you!!!
When I got the back cover removed, (complicated by the location of the water filter in the middle under the lower glass shelf) I found the upper right area only clogged with ice, including the perimeter of the fan. The rest of the coils were clear, including the drain. An hour w a hairdryer got it back in good working order… till it ices up again.
So I am wondering with many others what a user permanent fix could be.
I reading through many of your posts, I found this paragraph on your fourth video responses:
John Carbonara1 year ago Pro technician here, The Refrigerator is built by Samsung. Several fixes for this problem… If there is ice only forming on the upper right portion of the coil then replace the thermistor, it has just lost its value slightly and is not staying in defrost long enough for the coil to thaw properly. It looks like a white bullet shaped object with two yellow wires and it clips on the evaporator tubing in the upper right hand corner.
I managed to find links to a couple of Samsung service bulletins on this issue, one from 2014 and a subsequent one from 2015. (Google: Samsung service bulletin ASC20140703001) Both identify the thermistor as a part of the problem, including its position, and its resilience. The 2015 bulletin says if it has been imbedded in ice, it should be replaced.
On this thread, I notice the comment here that heads in this direction as well: "The coils on these Samsung's ice up because the defrost sensors are failing at a very high rate. If you have a coil that's iced up you need to change that sensor."
Sounds to me like the thermistor fix will have to be a part of any permanent solution. It is certainly on my ‘to do’ list for this fridge, especially since my drain was open (and no water below my trays) and the ice was located in the upper right area only (fan noise was my only evidence of a problem).
Hi Geoff, I have the same fridge as you, RF323TEDBSR, and also have the loud noise and have spent the day researching the issue. I haven't taken the fridge apart yet to inspect it, but plan on ordering the service bulletin kit and the defrost sensor (thermostat) and having them on hand before I start the attempted repair. Since it is quite a project, I hope to be able to completely resolve it in one shot. Do you know what the part number is for the defrost sensor (thermostat) for our particular fridge? I'm assuming that the defrost sensor/thermostat/thermistor are all different names for the same item, correct?
Sean Richter the part number for the defrost sensor you need for the model you listed is DA32-10104N. Also this is a link for the service bulletin regarding this problem, if this link doesn't work you can google ASC20140703001 and you should find it. www.encompassparts.com/shop/model_research_docs/?file=/SMG/sb/ServiceBulletin_ASC20140703001_V41.pdf
Thank you PickerJimS! Ordering now. Will attempt the repair in the next couple weeks. I have my fingers crossed that this loud noise will be gone from my life soon :)
Sean, I used also the service bulletin that PickerJimS cited. My problem was "Symptom 2" on that sheet. I found the user coils iced, AND ALSO found ice on the inside of the fan housing imbedded in the cover I removed; had to melt both the inside of that cover and the ice on the coils. Be sure to check the cover, too, for ice! Also, the bulletin made an emphasis, with photos, on the placement of the new sensor: "If the defrost sensor was imbedded in ice, replace it. When attaching the defrost sensor, make sure the sensor faces LEFT." I was careful to do that. My last repair of this is a month ago. So far, so good.
I will rate him with 5* he answered my settings. Thanks
If you put it in first defrost you should be able to see if the heater works i am thinking about using a heating pad with magnets right behind it and a timer it's a thought or turn it on and fridge off when it freezes so I don't have to disassemble everytime
Samsung came out with a repair bulletin for the frozen drain issue. The part number for the repair kit is DA82-01415A
Thanks for this. Good for people to know. Or, you can make your own as described in this video..
I really want to know if this worked, I have had to defrost mine every 6 months
Great show!
I got this defrosted for 2 days now and got the hole unclogged because water was dripping down to the pantry compartment.
I noticed that the bottom middle slot where a screw goes has some drops of water dripping through while I am using a hair dryer to completely dry up the coils.
Strange but when I place my hand on the back of the fridge where that slot is located for the screws, it seems cold still. I assume there is ice still formed in that location. I will continuing defrosting it till tomorrow which is day 3 because there was quite a lot of ice formation. I had the RF263 model since 2014 which is not bad at all.
Some of the coils have been bent possible from the ice formation. Should I try to straighten them back or leave them as is?
Thanks for the support! 🙏👌
With significant ice build up behind the refrigerator back panel, I chose to defrost & dry out things overnight before taking anything apart (including the back panel removal). "there was so much ice it had popped the plastic cover off the top panel screw access hole... and ice was pushing through"
> I removed all items from the refrigerator... utilizing the bottom freezer compartment for some food storage (this will help to preserve things while the power is off)
> Unplug the refrigerator from the outlet... very important!
> Remove the glass shelving and set aside
> Take a small table lamp (not your best one) and equip it with a 60-75 watt incandescent light bulb
> Stand the table lamp in the center of the refrigerator food compartment
> The insulated freezer containing frozen food should remain cold during this process... as it's pretty well insulated.
> Shut the refrigerator door(s)... it will get pretty warm inside, which is what you want.
> Wait a good number of hours. (I chose to leave it overnight)
When I subsequently pulled the panel off to install the "heater wire in the drain" fix... EVERYTHING behind the back panel was bone dry & defrosted. I used boiling water poured down the center drain to verify the unobstructed flow down into the evaporator pan underneath the refrigerator. (you can hear it dripping below).
With the problem now "fixed" (I hope)... we'll be keeping a close eye on things and hoping for success!
BTW... Hey SAMSUNG: You blew it with this one! I can't believe so many customers experienced this problem, and there hasn't been a recall.
In the old days refrigerators lasted decades (made in the USA). Mine is less than 2 years old with this issue.
Guys. Here's the fix. Get the new design Samsung drain hole defroster. Its on eBay for 5 to 6 bucks. Sombody has already posted the model number in the comments. I pushed the old tab down to the right because that's the side that had more frost. And 2, i moved the defrost sensor(that small back cylinder thing zip tied on the left). I cut the tie and relocated it to the top center of the fins, where all the ice builds up. Haven't had any problems for months(unless people keep leaving the doors open!) In that case i run the Forced Defrost mode before i go to bed and its better by morning.
Thanks you for the videos !!! "Same problem here"
Would you have any testing procedures for the main control board on the back? I think that would eliminate some time for repair. Testing procedures I mean for each component on the board.
If you run into circuit board issues, try a place called Circuit Board Medics. They've saved my ass several times and they stand behind their work. If you're having this icing problem with your "twin cooling" Samsung, then listen to these folks. I just defrosted mine and did the heavy guage copper wire wrap with several inches down the drain hole. Hope to hell this is the golden fix...
Samsung RS263TDPN refrigerator, Freezer wont cool, fridge side is working, no frost formation on freezer or fridge coils. Sir what do you think the problem is?
this is good for 263 models as well im guesing. currently going through the process.
hey thaks for the video...I have a lot water leak inside and all my fruits and vegetables end up in ice water...so you think I have the same problem??
In an attempt to install the longer clip onto the heater coil, I have removed the ice, squeezed hot water with the turkey baster inside the fridge itself, but it is still not draining. I then removed the lower panel on the back and identified the 2 drain tubes that drain into the pan. I removed them and inspected them. I was hoping for a big splooge of dirty water but no, they 2 drain tubes seem to be working as designed. I then took a flexible plastic tube and was able to stick it up about 18 inches. I sucked and blew on both and it seems like they are clear. I did the same from the inside of the fridge and again was able to get it down a bit over 12 inches and blew air in there but I don't think it reached the other side.
somewhere between 'here and there' there is a kink or a blockage that is preventing the water from draining. Getting frustrated to say the least.
Be careful, don't make the hole too wide, the nail might fall through and really clog up the drain
What ended up being the best fix for this? I am defrosting mine right now.
Thank you we will try this fix
This video doesn't show HOW to remove the panel without damaging the Styrofoam baffle which is actually molded air ducts that direct air flow properly. This can't break--the Styrofoam is a functional part of your fridge!
First off all, turn OFF the fridge. Using a hair dryer, direct it toward each and every hole/slot in that rear panel. It might take 15 minutes or more if there is a lot of ice build-up in the rear of that panel. Picture the ice hugging both the defroster parts AND the Styrofoam... it will grab them tightly together.
After you are certain ALL the ice is melted (the water will stop dripping), look for little raised, molded triangles (arrows, hard to see white on white!) along BOTH sides of the panel. These mark the pressure points where the plastic tabs underneath hold the panel onto the back wall.
Using a flat bladed, stiff putty knife, push firmly but gently inward at each triangle point (just behind the front panel along the side behind the arrows). Do the same to each tab, releasing each one by one. (I seem to remember there are two on each side). IF THERE IS ANY RESISTANCE TO PULLING THE PANEL FORWARD, THERE MIGHT BE MORE ICE! If so, hair dryer it again and try to melt everything back there.
ONE MORE THING ABOUT THIS VIDEO HACK:
In my opinion, this gentleman's fix won't last. The way this metal tab going down into the drain hole works is by transferring heat from the defroster heating element to the aluminum tab, then melting ice in the hold. If you notice in the video, this tab is very loose where it connects to the heating element. Conduction of heat will be poor. ...... Instead of his fix, I took a length of #14 gauge bare copper wire about 12" long, and using a needlenose pliers, I folded the wire in half first and then twisted the closed end (leaving the cut ends loose) into a tight twisted "tail" about 3" long. Bending the loose ends apart, I made a "T" shaped wire with the twisted 3" part as the leg of the T. I then shoved the leg of the T down the drain hole. I then took each loose end of the wire and wrapped and then coiled each end (right and left) around the defroster heating element. I used both my fingers and the needlenose pliers to lace it in and around, pulling it as tight as possible around the heating element as I worked along. In the end, you should wind up with the twisted leg of the copper T about 2-3" down into the drain hole (much deeper than Samsuck's 3/8" with that little tab)... and each bare "arm" of the T should be tightly wrapped around the coil on both the right and left sides of that tab.
The copper wire will conduct heat much better than that thin tab of aluminum and keep the drain hole ice free. This will hopefully solve the problem of water or ice pooling under the deli drawers.... AND you won't hear that dreaded fan-scraping sound every time the defroster ices up behind the rear panel. (The classic sound is loud when the door is closed and stops when you open the door... a sure sound that ice is building up behind that panel!)
I did my repair this way and so far, there the defroster has been ice free for about 1 year to today's date. Samsung's "new an improved tab" won't work! In fact, NONE of the repairs Samsung gets people to spend their $$$ on will ever totally fix these fridges. There are Samsung service bulletins dating back to 2007 with such problems... all KNOWN BY SAMSUNG FOR YEARS, yet they continue to seel the same defective, poorly designed units!
Good luck! Tell your friends and family NEVER TO BUY SAMSUNG PRODUCTS.
For more info and other people experiencing problems with their Samsucks fridges, visit the Samsung Refrigerator RECALL NOW page on Facebook: facebook.com/groups/1520337151601316/
This is where I'm at. Defrosted several times, changed the heat coil, fan spins fine. I'm putting an extension on the heat tab this time. Thanks !
Why didn't you do force defrost ?
The Model used was similar but different. mine had a screw and it came off easy, after I destroyed the seals and cracked the cover & two hours of trying to get to the coils. Plus I did
not get the correct temperature setting I requested and paid the expert for. Can you text or email me the settings? My Model : RF18HFENBSR SAMSUNG I RATE a 4 I look forward to
your reply.
Did you check the heating element for continuity? If it's not working surely this whole process is pointless?
Good point. Yes, all the components behind that panel are good. Correct ohms on all parts.
If you don’t put the cover back on will the refrigerator function Normally? I am thawing mine out as I write this. Thankfully I have a second fridge in the garage. I lost two gallons of milk. The digital reading said 36 but I bought an old school thermometer and it was reading 55.
It won't cool properly without the cover.
I had the same issue but the reason why mine had built up ice on the Evaporator Coil was because the fan had died. It took me almost 5 hours to defrost the ice and get the back cover off using a blow dryer. However I then ordered the fan online $23 it took 5 days to arrive, so I put the fridge back together without the back panel. It will get cold but the bottom of the fridge will freeze (32 or below) while the top will be around 45 - 50. Because there is no circulation. Fan arrived defrosted the coil in 10 minutes, put everything back together and it's working great.
Can you use a clip drain like this? www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-clip-drain-evap-da61-06796a-ap5579885.html# I was told it's to be installed on the defrost heater, under the evaporator coils. Here is an article i found- www.appliancerepairlesson.com/2013/12/13/samsung-refrigerator-leaking-into-crisper-drawer/
Is it serving the same purpose?
I have a warranty , for this and this is my fourth time with service coming out. I hope they give me a new fride! Thats not a Samsung!!!
What's the final fix?
did the rivet work or is it still freezing
Well, it has only been about a week. I would not expect this samsung refrigerator drain hole to freeze up that quickly. I will surely let everyone know the next time I have to take it apart...
@@jakeguitar01 have things been working ok since this video?
I am having this issue, glad I found your story. I know the problem is elevated when the reefer door is open longer than it needs to be or should be in normal operation. It's a gender thing. I'm wondering if the 'system' isn't properly configured to handle this or if it's really a poorly engineered piece of equipment.
What I am going to show you in the next video to come out in the next couple days is not going to be a "FINAL FIX", but it should at least prevent it from freezing up as often. (like every 6 months instead of every month). It has been working for me, and I hope it will work for everyone else. Its a very simple and inexpensive solution. Please click the little BELL, next to the subscribe button so you don't miss it.
I have to break out the camera, record it, edit it, and then upload it. I will start tonight and hopefully have it uploaded in the next day or two.
so we fixed ours about 2-3 years ago and now today we are defrosting the back again. It is frozen up again. Any one have a repeat? We added the coil to extend the heating 2-3 years ago. Samsung RF263beae is nothing but junk
So did you an actual fix?
i'm still working on it. It seemed to generate much less ice with what I have done, but there was still some ice. I will let everyone know what it is soon enough if it works...
About the time you get to part 27, you can call yourself and this SamJunk frig, Frankenstein. Like you I doggedly keep at the task of dealing with the worst refrigerator ever manufactured. Sad thing is that it isn't even any good to put in the garage, where it would probably require a defrost ever 24 hours, in my south Florida humidity.
m
GREG DC have you came up with the solution?
I am facing the same issue with those poorly designed samsung refrigerators. It's a 3 years old one and it's the 2nd time I am repeating this procedure you thought here - thanks a ton!
Anyway, look at the pic and see how I am melting the ice with my own technic instagram.com/p/Bb4s-RlnvTa/
I have replaced the motherboard, heating element, wrapped copper wire around the bottom of the heating element and inserted the wire into the drain hole and it still freezers up and makes noise.
Two service calls probably $500.00 dollars into this and no luck. I hate this refrigerator. BTW, its unplugged now because I couldn't stand the noise any longer.
Wow, even the mother board wasn't the answer. Don't throw away the fridge yet, I think I am on to a decent solution to the problem of icing on the coil.
I too have this piece of crap refrigerator and like you, I have had to defrost and try putting copper wrapped around the heater and down through the drain (which I believe is the root cause of the problem). This time I am going to cover the hole with aluminum tape, direct the drain to a shallow pan beneath the drawer and empty as often as needed. Can’t wait till this machine dies so I can buy a GE fridge. $3000 for a fridge that should have been recalled. SAMSUNG YOU DROPPED THE BALL ON US CONSUMERS. SHAME ON YOU!!!
Ha! GE has the exact same design! Probably made by Samsung.