Thank you sir, for all you do! You are an inspiration to a 60's guy like me who is attempting to re-invent himself by getting back into woodworking. What a treasure trove of techniques - people like Mr Blackburn with his knowledge and experience are national treasures for sharing their trade. That's all I can say.
Thank you sir for that very excellent tutorial on wood grain as it pertains to cupping, etc and how to take that into consideration when laying out a project. Your lessons are very easy to understand, and your calming demeanor while teaching is very appreciated!
Dear Mr. Blackburn, thank you again. I did not know the technical reason as to why wood moves: "more cells" on the outside. However, perhaps a simpler way to teach people to read expected future movement of a wooden panel is to simply have them look at the end grain (as in the first board you demonstrated) and explain that the rings tend to "straighten out" when drying. So, again referencing your first board, the rings will straighten-out and the cup will occur on the top of the board. That has always been the way I have looked at it, and it is very simple. 😊Best wishes!
I suppose it could be explained that way but what is actually happening is the change in moisture content of the original cells is causing the wood to expand or contract.
Another wonderful tutorial Graham, and something new learned from it, my instinct would have had me planing the top face toward the point of the "cathedral", however, as you pointed out the grain direction is going the other way on that board, I'll remember to check that in future 😮
Thank you for your most excellent videos! I am still looking forward to your shop tour and I would love to understand where and when you CHOOSE to use powe tools... and which you do use.
thanks for explaining how wood cups.. i think i kinda figured it out myself but that solidified it in my mind and ill look for that in the future.. i still dont know which way is up tho.. or which way the grain goes.. im going to have to look for that info
Without knowing any better, I would plane the top surface before putting the bevel around the outer edges. Can you explain why you do it as you've shown here? Or, does it matter?
Thank you Graham - So is the point of the bevelling to increase the surface area of the top, so its somewhat equal to the bottom to cancell out some of the potential cupping?
I live in the UK and for the very reasons you give in the video I used to buy quarter sawn boards. Very difficult to find now and much more expensive. Are they readily available in the US ?
Thank you sir, for all you do! You are an inspiration to a 60's guy like me who is attempting to re-invent himself by getting back into woodworking. What a treasure trove of techniques - people like Mr Blackburn with his knowledge and experience are national treasures for sharing their trade. That's all I can say.
Wow, thanks!
Thank you Kind Sir, it is a blessing to have someone like you teaching us. Many thanks and kind Regards from Pakistan
You're welcome!
Although I spent my entire day in the shop, seeing you on the bench make me want to grab a plane right away! Many thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Any time!
A great tip on how to deal with anticipated wood movement. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for a great video and a very thorough and clear explanation of wood movement.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir for that very excellent tutorial on wood grain as it pertains to cupping, etc and how to take that into consideration when laying out a project. Your lessons are very easy to understand, and your calming demeanor while teaching is very appreciated!
You are very welcome
Thank you for the explanation and demonstration.
You are welcome!
As always Graham your instruction is appreciated.
Glad you think so!
Thank you Graham. The basics never get old.
You're welcome.
Thanks Graham - lots of very useful knowledge imparted there.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing information by demonstration.
You're welcome!
Thank you for sharing this re-run. I didn’t hear this first time around, but found it insightful.❤
You are so welcome!
Many thanks for this very clear explanation of some critical fundamentals on wood movement.
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful crisp and clear
You're welcome!
Another great video, Graham. Thanks!
Very welcome!
Very helpful information. I’m want to make a raised panel door for a cabinet I made in my shop. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Love the technique Graham.
Glad you enjoyed it
Dear Mr. Blackburn, thank you again. I did not know the technical reason as to why wood moves: "more cells" on the outside. However, perhaps a simpler way to teach people to read expected future movement of a wooden panel is to simply have them look at the end grain (as in the first board you demonstrated) and explain that the rings tend to "straighten out" when drying. So, again referencing your first board, the rings will straighten-out and the cup will occur on the top of the board. That has always been the way I have looked at it, and it is very simple. 😊Best wishes!
I suppose it could be explained that way but what is actually happening is the change in moisture content of the original cells is causing the wood to expand or contract.
OUTSTANDING explanation
Thanks!
My rule of thumb is
The growth rings will try to flatten out as the wood dries.
Not sure about flattening out, but they definitely become smaller.
Thanks a lot, Graham!!! 😃
Looking forward to the next part!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks. You too.
Thank you. Excellent tutorial
You're welcome!
Another wonderful tutorial Graham, and something new learned from it, my instinct would have had me planing the top face toward the point of the "cathedral", however, as you pointed out the grain direction is going the other way on that board, I'll remember to check that in future 😮
Right on.
Thank you Graham!
My pleasure!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
My pleasure
Thank you for your most excellent videos! I am still looking forward to your shop tour and I would love to understand where and when you CHOOSE to use powe tools... and which you do use.
Coming soon!. If I were to take on more production work I would probably use the powetools.
Such a good explanation
Glad you liked it
Einfach klasse! Vielen Dank Herr Blackburn
Bitte schön!
Great. I am interested to know the best way of making fielding with a step down to the slope.
Coming soon!
Thank you Graham! But what if your lid will not be loosing a moisture but will be absorbing moisture instead?
Turn it upside down!
More great info
Glad you found it useful.
thanks for explaining how wood cups.. i think i kinda figured it out myself but that solidified it in my mind and ill look for that in the future.. i still dont know which way is up tho.. or which way the grain goes.. im going to have to look for that info
Try Bruce Hoadley's "Understanding Wood"
Thank you Sir.🎉
Most welcome
Without knowing any better, I would plane the top surface before putting the bevel around the outer edges. Can you explain why you do it as you've shown here? Or, does it matter?
Simply to ensure that the field bevel is even all the way round.
Thank you Graham - So is the point of the bevelling to increase the surface area of the top, so its somewhat equal to the bottom to cancell out some of the potential cupping?
No, merely a design element.
I live in the UK and for the very reasons you give in the video I used to buy quarter sawn boards. Very difficult to find now and much more expensive. Are they readily available in the US ?
If you buy lumber from a lumberyard you usually have the choice,
I noticed taht on the top surface planing you had "grabbing" happening. I have this all the time. How to prevent it?
Sharper iron and thinner shavings.
Bravo !
Thanks!
Thank you Graham!
My pleasure!