GLASSY Dangerous Conditions. Perfect Heavy Swell
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Hope this video can break 10 000 views one day.
For informative purposes. Every edit is made in chronological order so as to keep the realism of the experience. I appreciate every view! Thank you for the support.
Nothing without purpose.
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Watching this video I'm really liking how you show the GoPro footage then the beach camera footage. It helps to create a sense of flow and really makes the video a lot more intriguing with the variety of footage. Great stuff man, keep it up!
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. Sometimes, I don't always have dual perspectives. Making the most of what I have available to me. Legend
Super gnarly. 'If you don't live here don't surf here',, really ,, likewise, don't go anywhere else and all is good then.
Actually, he doesn't surf anywhere else. u KNOW DA RULZ!
@@scottyknowsurf U WANT SMACKZ? 🤣
@FreeEditsForYou hoping that's Intended as a light hearted joke.
That oke sounds like a ballie that Joel led at Red Dog
@@barryl1602 You still talking home town, all good, same rules apply then when you wai north or south.
Love to see a classic spot being shown
Thanks for taking us for the ride with you! Don't remember the last time I watched surf POV for 18 mins straight!
Thanks for watching! Appreciate the comment.
Surfing as it really is, loved it. Sound like a good dude too
Thanks for the comment! Just the breathing is heavy. But I watch mtb pov stuff so I don't feel so had about my own content. Lol.
What an epic session, I love how well you capture the surfer’s perspective from not only the sick rides but seeing the oncoming sets & choosing your wave to paddle!
Thanks! I try my best to be realistic...always the good the bad and the boring 😅
@@scottyknowsurf Have you surfed Australia?
I haven't would love too!
Spooky, sharky!!!🦈🦈🦈
Yes sometimes, it's always a concern
The color of the water with the sand boiling up on the takeoff looks Incredible !! Awesome waves cheers!
Thanks a lot! Appreciate the comment and the view!
Sharing the thought process like this is so helpful!
Thanks for the feedback. I did so in my latest video. If you haven't seen it. Trying to up the views
ruclips.net/video/-ShoTkrmXBU/видео.html
The POV is so deceptive. It looks OK. Then you see the beach angle, and you realise that is proper head high and more :D
Pretty much. Get alot of people saying how they would approach these sessions. But I think they can't grasp how different it is out there😅
So cool. My go to spot in varsity days living on top of the hill for a couple of years. Too many locals at Garvies and Ansteys but the rock always rocked... some unexpectedly heavy sessions had... 😮
Would like to keep it that way. Mind amending the spot names. Save me from receiving the locals wrath🫡 was thinking I need to stop advertising it so much and take the land marks out. Besides the pool of course😅
rocksss
I don’t live there but have surfed there and will anytime i want. I will say when we were surfing it it was bigger and we were taking off way up then point from where you are taking off. That’s where we were kicking out. Some of the best barrels. Freaking thick round long ones. When you don’t make one you pay, but that’s at any spot with heavy waves. You pay to play. It’s so macabre from the top of the point.
Oh, i think you guys were out on this day?
ruclips.net/video/0Hh7xruw6Bg/видео.html
Man would love to see someone send it in these conditions. 25 yrs, and no takers.
@Zach, Ive been documenting this wave for 8 years and never seen your face out there. Maybe you are getting mixed up with another spot as there is no "point" at Caves. As for the "don't live here, don't surf here" is very much a 90's vibe on the Bluff, especially further north from Ansteys. But that being said, if you have good surf etiquette and attitude, whether big or small out there, you will fit right in. Hopefully see you on the next big swell out there 🤙🏼
@@darren_simes_photo this was 20 years ago. And yes if you can surf good and be respectful and are given respect you can surf anywhere. And i mean anywhere. Love sa many good times.
Awesome video. Love the honest dialogue
Appreciate the comment thank you!
Great session Scott!
Glad you enjoyed it!
epic!
If it looks heavy on gopro...then it's f*cking heavy. Great vid and thanks for the upload
Definitely felt like it had some juice! Thanks for the positive comment. It goes a long way!
Choo choo ! 🚂 🚊 🚆
Train!
Wow super epic.. what an animal pretty large and in charge.
Definitely got the blood pumping just as I calmed down
Great video Scotty! Saffa backdoor!🤙🤙🤙
Cheers theo! Thanks for commenting
Cool pov stuff. Reminds me a bit of voodoo's Cronulla but in reverse. Super shallow reef sections hard to know how sections going to line up. Good memories 🤙
Legend thanks for the positive feedback!
Firing! Charging! Nice kegs!🤩
Thank you as always.
Sick session. 🤙
Legend
Need a longer and narrower board. I feel like you could sit a lot deeper since your goofy foot drop pig dog and pump. Sounds easy but it’s super hard.
Spot on. There are entry points on warbly waves. But yea, I don't know self-preservation kicked in that bank has been closing out heavy all season. No one surfs or bodyboards it. Will try next season. Miss all the reps.. for one diamond in the rough. Hopefully, I have my quiver sorted for it by then.
Yrrrgh! First time I've seen you on video taking off right in front of the swimming pool. If you never had a leash a wipeout would make your surfboard a dinged crackup on the rocks in front of the pool.
great videos
Glad you like them! Stoked
Man I wish I could surf
It's never too late!
Is this J Bay? 🤙
It seems like it does have that look sometimes.
The wide shots are better from the shore, it's difficult to get a true perspective of what you dealing with with the go pro in jou mond. Respect none the less.
Just need the channel to grow enough to get a full time beach POV.
man if i could get a barrel like the one at 11:31 my life would be complete right then and there
I felt lucky...could have gone either way! Wish I had a beach POV
Just wrong tide, had to be patient and stay inside down the line. Wrong tide... you got 1-2
Wrong mindset 🤣 pretty lucky on some.
I guess with the swell angle a little less direct it'd close out less and you could start further up the point. Where you were at there seems to be a slightly deeper bit slowing the wave down a bit so you had like a snail's foot to the wave, or a boob, a mound with the original breaking wave like a nipple on top, which enabled you to catch the wave and ride just as it hollowed out again. A difficult take off because of that though, you had to time it well, if I've understood it correctly. It seemed to me it was hard to get into the wave but your timing was excellent which made it work. Could easily be way off base. :)
If not, I may have a tip for you. Do you shift your position forward an inch or two on the board just before paddling for a wave? I don't know if it's a well known thing or not, it's just what I do, it makes catching the wave much easier and broadens the window of timing. For ordinary paddling you have the nose just out of the water, but in this forward take off position the nose naturally positions itself an inch or two under the water, and you have to arch your back up high to lift out the nose and keep it from digging in. As the wave reaches you though it starts dropping away below the nose and this is when you drop from the arched position and lie flat, this tilts your board a vital couple of degrees down the wave thus reducing the drag and increasing the acceleration so you get into it much more easily. You can catch uncatchably slow waves like this.
Apologies if you already know about this, I just never talked about it to anyone and don't know if it's a well known thing or not. Just thought I'd share because it looked like ideal conditions to do it here.
Super good points, yes.. you pretty spot on. There was a deeper section, but there is no medical near me, and I don't have pvt med aid. Also, it was closing out 90% of the time. I usually do lean slightly forward, but then one needs to get on the back inside rail and cut the corner super fast. The board is slightly too wide, so surfing it off the front edge is slowing me down for the transition. Thanks for the view and the in-depth analysis 👍
@@scottyknowsurf Just to check you understood me correctly, I was talking about entirely before you stand up; the instant you have the wave (which would be earlier than without the technique) you arch your back up again for that moment of balance before jumping to your feet.
I'd be interested actually if any other surfers use this method.
And yeah you mentioned in the video a narrower one would be easier to set the rail for these waves. It did look ugly on take off, like a supertanker slushing all that water out of the way, I have to say :) Hope I'm not insulting your baby! I never had a wide board so I've no idea when one would want to use one or why. I guess for slower but hollow waves?
Yes I understood...I would say that arching your back would absorb too much time. One really needs to spring up fast. And yes the board is Def too wide.. was just exploring wider boards but that was evidently a mistake.
@@scottyknowsurf I love experimenting too. BTW you haven't understood the shift forward + arching of the back to keep the nose from digging in: this is only before the wave starts lifting me. I drop my head and keep paddling once the wave is under me eg. 5:05 - 5:12.0 = arched paddling, 5:12.0 - 5:13.0 = ordinary paddling (ie not arched), 5:13.5=would be standing, but you have to paddle 0.5-1s longer to get into it. Admittedly it's a wide board requiring more effort+time paddling and I'm not sure how much help the technique would be in this case. You have what I'd consider a late take-off mostly because of the board but you are obviously very used to it. Your timing is impeccable but I think you should try it sometime on a less wide board and slower waves. It definitely is an invaluable technique for me on some days. No need to reply, I know I'm being annoying. :)
I can promise you now any extra time on these waves and you are going to the cleaners. Scotty Knows Surf for a reason. Appreciate your good eye, though. But please don't try to kill me out there😅 truthfully pop should be instantaneous from the paddle in. There is zero time in certain waves and in others, arching the back for sure. But have you ever arched and popped your pelvis simultaneously to help get to your feet faster and more comfortably? Def a narrower board on the next order. Have a few videos yet to drop articulating this. For now it's leisurely surf at jbay. And thanks again for your interaction. Legend.
Rudy Palmboom out there charging?
He was!
What are you riding for a board my man? I like the texture of it.
Its an agave by @growblanks and @ecosurfsupply super happy with it. Feels better than a PU. Will do quiver video eventually. Just have so much to still edit and get out.
How is it consistently firing there!?
Man we have bad days too! It's just an illusion🤣 if I uploaded all the bad evidence. I just don't get views.
Why did you choose a wooden board?
It's most durable...will dial in a narrower 1 soon!
@@scottyknowsurf 👍
🤮🤙🏾
Where is this?
With respect to the locals. It would be best to not share this info. Otherwise I will get regulated.
Bluff Durban - looks a bit like cave rock I think.
Thanks for throwing me under the bench
@@scottyknowsurf your welcome, I surfed their a few times in the 80s nearly drowned on one big day , It’s quite a heavy spot so I wouldn’t worry about a 100s of weekend warriors flooding the break. The pros have limited time and will be at JB so I don’t believe I’m selling u out - besides Durban needs the publicity. Nice footage by the way.
@@scottyknowsurf it’s not a secret spot all over the surf mags in 70 s and 80s
You made is sound a lot more dangerous than it was 🤦🏼♂️go surf undo over 2 ft shallow reef
Getting alot of these comments, and I know you are all greatly mistaken, and yes, I have surfed the Ments on a decade Swell. We got nokandui, HTs 2nd and Third reef and maccas was firing for 4 days(it turns into a mini slab when its big) and Big bank vaults was my introduction. This edit probably looks like nothing to anyone. Those waves on my inside are double overhead. It's 3 ft deep and LESS in some zones with unnatural demolished land structure underneath. I don't think most of you have any idea of (how) gnarly it is. Not to mention, it has taken multiple lives. Though this controversy is good. It's been stacking the views. I would be the first person to call 10ft, 6ft. But no one really knows me or who I am and what experience I actually have. Classic. Welcome to the world of online. I just recently stepped up the filming pretty much one season in.
looks a bit mushy
The one section for sure it Was also collapsing.
@@scottyknowsurf i was joking i can barely surf x