👍👌👏 Simply fantastic: Thank you for rescuing and restoring such a great old time witness. As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and health to all involved people.
Super educational and fascinating, thanks for the laborious effort of showing us all the inner bits and bobs and how their quality is determined. Great work all!
Happy New Year. .Very interesting to watch .You're dedication on these old Engines is remarkable this goes for all the people who restore these Beautiful Engines .Thanks for showing the Very detailed work involved .
For a bit of fun, when you get a "deteriorated" fire box stay out, soak it, in a fairly strong mix of CLR and water. Ends up looking like swiss cheese. We used an Annular cutter, to drill broken bolts and stays. Lot quicker, ( read easier) than using a drill.
We took our tubes out threw the throttle packing gland hole in the back head, much more room. Of course we purchased a tool to cut the tunes on the inside of each tube sheet so only a 3inch tube end had to be knocked out.
Im surprised that you didnt use a tube cutter to remove the tubes considering that they cant be reused. We retubed a large marine boiler a few years ago and the fitter made a tool which just fitted inside the tube head with an adjustable cutting head which simply cut the tube wall about an inch or so inside the tube plate. This left us to collapse the tube end and punch it through. Saved a lot of grunt work and hands.
Works rather like a cronks tool used in plumbing only instead of expanding ball bearings there are three cutter blades that expand on a cone. Very simple and effective
We couldn’t use a tube cutter as the dropped internal tubes would be trapped in the barrel. The diameter is too small compared to the length, the size of the dome hole and the vertical section of dome neck to get the tubes out through there.
Kinda thought the tube removal was done the hard way. They make torch cutting tips just for cutting boiler tubes out. Just cut it off at the inside of the tube past the flue sheet; may have to do it on both ends. Looks like the tubes could have been removed through the manhole.
Hi, I am new to this channel, who is Jenny and is she related to any one of team. How did she get involved in the project and does she have a working history as a "tradesman". Regards from South Africa
Hi. Jenny is my mum. (I’m Simon,…. the narrator, filmed, editor etc). She retired from her Opticians businesses a few years ago and now helps out working with us up at Steam Workshop. Her dad, my grandad used to build miniature steam locos, so she’s no stranger to steam or workshops and as you can see she’s been great at getting stuck in with the Fowler rebuild too. Thanks mum! 🙂
Fascinating stuff !! I've heard the 𝒏𝒂𝒎𝒆𝒔 of all these components but it's interesting to see them 𝑖𝑛 𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑢. I'm 𝐧𝐨𝐭 claustrophobic but inside the boiler is a place I 𝒘𝒐𝒖𝒍𝒅𝒏'𝒕 be going, especially with the dome-hole being the only egress. I don't think I would physically fit, so I'm safe enough.😁 I'm not at all familiar with the internals of a loco boiler: is this one in 𝐝𝐞𝐜𝐞𝐧𝐭 overall condition, excellent, or poor? I would assume it's pretty poor, compared to a newly refurbished, 10-year ticketed loco but, for an 𝐮𝐧-restored loco, what state is it in?
Why don’t you just cut out a section from the middle of the boiler tubes and then just drive then inward, from the end plates, toward the center of the firebox? It seems to me that you’d then only need to drive them a couple of inches to remove them, rather than forcing the entire length through.
Doesnt the Fowler Boiler have a Keyhole tube in the bottom rack of flues? Knock the ferrul out and follow up with the rest . Damaging the flue sheet with the process you are incorporating now. You are making so difficult.
unless you are reusing the tubes which is doubtfully after you bashed the crap out of them, why didn't you just cut the just inside and extract a short piece of tube, that's how we do it on boilers I retube, no need to extract the whole tube which is covered in scale, makes no sense and a crapload of work for no reason.
You can no more bend a stay even if "only slightly" without doing harm to it than you can dent - and bend - a car fender without doing harm to it. To bend the stay has to STRETCH. Period. No way around it. Period. Boilers that are riveted and "peened" to make dozens of parts into "one piece" were never intended to be "rebuilt" in any way as evidenced by the hundreds to thousands of "man hours" required to "rebuild" one and the days to weeks of "downtime" that result in the REAL WORLD when a machine is in such poor NONWORKING ORDER that it requires a "total rebuild" to go "back to work". That thing was "retired" to a SCRAPYARD OR JUNKYARD FOR A REASON. IT WAS BEYOND "ECONOMIC REPAIR" EVEN BACK WHEN LABOR WAS "CHEAP". BEING "VOLUNTEERS" AND WORKING FOR "FREE" - WHICH IS A REQUIREMENT FOR "RESTORATIONS" AND "REBUILDS" LIKE THAT BECAUSE NO REAL "SKILLED LABORERS" OR "MASTER CRAFTSMEN" WANT ANYTHING TO DO WITH "STRIPPING" SCRAP IRON FROM SCRAP IRON AND DOING NOTHING BUT DAYS OR WEEKS OF "DIRTY WORK" NO MATTER HOW MUCH IT PAYS OR THEY'D BE "SCRAPPING" FOR A LIVING INSTEAD OF SKILLED LABOR OR IN THE TECHNICAL TRADES "REBUILDING" MACHINES THEY WILL SEE AT WORK AGAIN IN HOURS OR DAYS AT WORST INSTEAD OF YEARS TO DECADES AT "BEST". AND NO "BOILER INSPECTION" OR INSPECTION AND RECERTIFICATION OF ANY PRESSURE VESSEL CAPABLE OF BEING A "BOMB" AND INJURING OR KILLING ANY NUMBER OF "INNOCENT BYSTANDERS" WORTHY OF THE TERM IS "VISUAL" ONLY OR EVEN USES "HIGH TECHNOLOGY" LIKE SONAR FOR DETERMINING SO-CALLED REMAINING "LIFE" BY "MEASURING" METAL THICKNESS LIKE THERE IS A "SAFE" AMOUNT OF "MEASURABLE" CORROSION, EROSION OR OTHER ORIGINAL CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL "LOSS" RESULTING FROM "NORMAL USE". IF TUBES "FIGHT" THAT MUCH COMING OUT IT'S BECAUSE OF EXCESSIVE "CORROSION" AKA OXIDATION AKA "RUST". "SCALE" IS NOT HARDER/STRONGER THAN STEEL AND DOES NOT MAKE STEEL OR IRON PARTS "BIGGER" DIMENSIONALLY. "RUST" DOES BECAUSE WHEN YOU OXIDIZE STEEL OR IRON TO CREATE RUST FROM METAL, OXYGEN AND "SALTS" WHAT "FORMS" IS IRON OXIDE. WHICH IS A MORE COMPLEX CHEMICAL COMPOUND THAN "STEEL" AND THEREFORE TAKES UP "MORE SPACE". THOSE TUBES WERE ALSO NOT "PEENED" INTO THE FIREBOX "TUBE PLATE". THEY WERE "FLARED" WHEN "RED HOT" JUST LIKE "HEADING" RIVETS. AND "SHRANK" WHEN COOLED. AND THE BOILER "SHELL" WAS BUILT AROUND THE TUBE AND PLATE "ASSEMBLY". THE TUBES WERE NOT INSTALLED "INSIDE" ANYTHING. BOILERS ARE ASSEMBLED FROM THE INSIDE OUT. NOT THE OUTSIDE IN. THAT THING IS ABSOLUTE SCRAP AND IT'LL TAKE VAST SUMS OF OPM - OTHER PEOPLE'S MONEY - TO "RESTORE" IT AND THEN YET MORE TO "PRESERVE" IT AND NOWHERE NEAR ALL OF IT WILL BE "FREELY GIVEN" AND THE MAJORITY OF THOSE THAT DO "FREELY GIVE" MONEY WON'T BE GIVING AWAY THEIR HARD-EARNED MONEY AND/OR WILL NEVER SEE THAT POS "RESTORED" AND "IN STEAM" AND "BACK IN SERVICE" BEFORE THEY'RE TOO OLD OR TOO BUSY TO GIVE A SHIT. ESPECIALLY BEING THE NARROW GAUGE PIECE OF SHIT THAT IT IS WITH ABSOLUTELY ZERO CHANCE OF EVER BEING ON A "PUBLIC RAILWAY" AGAIN.
Ooooh, now I know why I'm so drawn to y'all - "Time for a cup o' tea" (mug in my case). ;-) Another WONDERFUL video.
Very good video showing the hard work to get this old lady going again.
More excellent work folks!
Great work and video! Really liked how you alternated between the drawings and then the footage of the area being discussed.
👍👌👏 Simply fantastic: Thank you for rescuing and restoring such a great old time witness.
As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health to all involved people.
Fascinating. Really easy to follow, interesting and entertaining. Can’t wait for the next one
Super educational and fascinating, thanks for the laborious effort of showing us all the inner bits and bobs and how their quality is determined. Great work all!
Happy New Year. .Very interesting to watch .You're dedication on these old Engines is remarkable this goes for all the people who restore these Beautiful Engines .Thanks for showing the Very detailed work involved .
Awesome work once again. 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Beautifully explained and great to watch 👍
For a bit of fun, when you get a "deteriorated" fire box stay out, soak it, in a fairly strong mix of CLR and water. Ends up looking like swiss cheese. We used an Annular cutter, to drill broken bolts and stays. Lot quicker, ( read easier) than using a drill.
Totally enjoyed that, well done.
You look really funny coming out of the boiler Simon 🤣
We took our tubes out threw the throttle packing gland hole in the back head, much more room. Of course we purchased a tool to cut the tunes on the inside of each tube sheet so only a 3inch tube end had to be knocked out.
Monticello Railroad Museum, Monticello Illinois.
Great work and very interesting - Thanks for posting.
enjoyed that, great camera work and narration is interesting
Brilliant stuff most enjoyable
Amazing that the boiler materials were as good as they are. Great vid easy to follow.
Did you find any grooving just above the Foundation Ring?
Im surprised that you didnt use a tube cutter to remove the tubes considering that they cant be reused. We retubed a large marine boiler a few years ago and the fitter made a tool which just fitted inside the tube head with an adjustable cutting head which simply cut the tube wall about an inch or so inside the tube plate. This left us to collapse the tube end and punch it through. Saved a lot of grunt work and hands.
Or even just torch them off. I don't understand why this much effort was made to save scrap
@@carl4043 torching them off risks damage to the plate and believe it or not a tube cutter is a lot quicker. Two or three turns and they are off
@@horsebee1 okay makes sense I have just never seen an internal tube cutter
Works rather like a cronks tool used in plumbing only instead of expanding ball bearings there are three cutter blades that expand on a cone. Very simple and effective
We couldn’t use a tube cutter as the dropped internal tubes would be trapped in the barrel. The diameter is too small compared to the length, the size of the dome hole and the vertical section of dome neck to get the tubes out through there.
Very enjoyable thanks
Kinda thought the tube removal was done the hard way. They make torch cutting tips just for cutting boiler tubes out. Just cut it off at the inside of the tube past the flue sheet; may have to do it on both ends. Looks like the tubes could have been removed through the manhole.
in the US it is common to have one larger hole, a king hole to be able to pull them out easier. not universal though.
Nice
Hi, I am new to this channel, who is Jenny and is she related to any one of team. How did she get involved in the project and does she have a working history as a "tradesman".
Regards from South Africa
Hi. Jenny is my mum. (I’m Simon,…. the narrator, filmed, editor etc). She retired from her Opticians businesses a few years ago and now helps out working with us up at Steam Workshop. Her dad, my grandad used to build miniature steam locos, so she’s no stranger to steam or workshops and as you can see she’s been great at getting stuck in with the Fowler rebuild too. Thanks mum! 🙂
Why werent you using the hot wrench to remove them tubes
Will you sandblast the interior of the boiler and firebox sheets and studs to clean the surface of rust?
Its saved!
What is the state of this project now
Fascinating stuff !! I've heard the 𝒏𝒂𝒎𝒆𝒔 of all these components but it's interesting to see them 𝑖𝑛 𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑢. I'm 𝐧𝐨𝐭 claustrophobic but inside the boiler is a place I 𝒘𝒐𝒖𝒍𝒅𝒏'𝒕 be going, especially with the dome-hole being the only egress. I don't think I would physically fit, so I'm safe enough.😁 I'm not at all familiar with the internals of a loco boiler: is this one in 𝐝𝐞𝐜𝐞𝐧𝐭 overall condition, excellent, or poor? I would assume it's pretty poor, compared to a newly refurbished, 10-year ticketed loco but, for an 𝐮𝐧-restored loco, what state is it in?
Why don’t you just cut out a section from the middle of the boiler tubes and then just drive then inward, from the end plates, toward the center of the firebox? It seems to me that you’d then only need to drive them a couple of inches to remove them, rather than forcing the entire length through.
Exactly this.
Doesnt the Fowler Boiler have a Keyhole tube in the bottom rack of flues? Knock the ferrul out and follow up with the rest . Damaging the flue sheet with the process you are incorporating now. You are making so difficult.
When tubes are that "tight" the boiler is in exactly the OPPOSITE of "good condition".
Nah. The boiler was, and still is in excellent condition. 😊
Think I’d have made a styrofoam box as long as the fire tubes and tossed them in to shrink before replacing them.
unless you are reusing the tubes which is doubtfully after you bashed the crap out of them, why didn't you just cut the just inside and extract a short piece of tube, that's how we do it on boilers I retube, no need to extract the whole tube which is covered in scale, makes no sense and a crapload of work for no reason.
You can no more bend a stay even if "only slightly" without doing harm to it than you can dent - and bend - a car fender without doing harm to it. To bend the stay has to STRETCH. Period. No way around it. Period.
Boilers that are riveted and "peened" to make dozens of parts into "one piece" were never intended to be "rebuilt" in any way as evidenced by the hundreds to thousands of "man hours" required to "rebuild" one and the days to weeks of "downtime" that result in the REAL WORLD when a machine is in such poor NONWORKING ORDER that it requires a "total rebuild" to go "back to work".
That thing was "retired" to a SCRAPYARD OR JUNKYARD FOR A REASON. IT WAS BEYOND "ECONOMIC REPAIR" EVEN BACK WHEN LABOR WAS "CHEAP".
BEING "VOLUNTEERS" AND WORKING FOR "FREE" - WHICH IS A REQUIREMENT FOR "RESTORATIONS" AND "REBUILDS" LIKE THAT BECAUSE NO REAL "SKILLED LABORERS" OR "MASTER CRAFTSMEN" WANT ANYTHING TO DO WITH "STRIPPING" SCRAP IRON FROM SCRAP IRON AND DOING NOTHING BUT DAYS OR WEEKS OF "DIRTY WORK" NO MATTER HOW MUCH IT PAYS OR THEY'D BE "SCRAPPING" FOR A LIVING INSTEAD OF SKILLED LABOR OR IN THE TECHNICAL TRADES "REBUILDING" MACHINES THEY WILL SEE AT WORK AGAIN IN HOURS OR DAYS AT WORST INSTEAD OF YEARS TO DECADES AT "BEST".
AND NO "BOILER INSPECTION" OR INSPECTION AND RECERTIFICATION OF ANY PRESSURE VESSEL CAPABLE OF BEING A "BOMB" AND INJURING OR KILLING ANY NUMBER OF "INNOCENT BYSTANDERS" WORTHY OF THE TERM IS "VISUAL" ONLY OR EVEN USES "HIGH TECHNOLOGY" LIKE SONAR FOR DETERMINING SO-CALLED REMAINING "LIFE" BY "MEASURING" METAL THICKNESS LIKE THERE IS A "SAFE" AMOUNT OF "MEASURABLE" CORROSION, EROSION OR OTHER ORIGINAL CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL "LOSS" RESULTING FROM "NORMAL USE".
IF TUBES "FIGHT" THAT MUCH COMING OUT IT'S BECAUSE OF EXCESSIVE "CORROSION" AKA OXIDATION AKA "RUST". "SCALE" IS NOT HARDER/STRONGER THAN STEEL AND DOES NOT MAKE STEEL OR IRON PARTS "BIGGER" DIMENSIONALLY. "RUST" DOES BECAUSE WHEN YOU OXIDIZE STEEL OR IRON TO CREATE RUST FROM METAL, OXYGEN AND "SALTS" WHAT "FORMS" IS IRON OXIDE. WHICH IS A MORE COMPLEX CHEMICAL COMPOUND THAN "STEEL" AND THEREFORE TAKES UP "MORE SPACE".
THOSE TUBES WERE ALSO NOT "PEENED" INTO THE FIREBOX "TUBE PLATE". THEY WERE "FLARED" WHEN "RED HOT" JUST LIKE "HEADING" RIVETS. AND "SHRANK" WHEN COOLED. AND THE BOILER "SHELL" WAS BUILT AROUND THE TUBE AND PLATE "ASSEMBLY". THE TUBES WERE NOT INSTALLED "INSIDE" ANYTHING. BOILERS ARE ASSEMBLED FROM THE INSIDE OUT. NOT THE OUTSIDE IN.
THAT THING IS ABSOLUTE SCRAP AND IT'LL TAKE VAST SUMS OF OPM - OTHER PEOPLE'S MONEY - TO "RESTORE" IT AND THEN YET MORE TO "PRESERVE" IT AND NOWHERE NEAR ALL OF IT WILL BE "FREELY GIVEN" AND THE MAJORITY OF THOSE THAT DO "FREELY GIVE" MONEY WON'T BE GIVING AWAY THEIR HARD-EARNED MONEY AND/OR WILL NEVER SEE THAT POS "RESTORED" AND "IN STEAM" AND "BACK IN SERVICE" BEFORE THEY'RE TOO OLD OR TOO BUSY TO GIVE A SHIT.
ESPECIALLY BEING THE NARROW GAUGE PIECE OF SHIT THAT IT IS WITH ABSOLUTELY ZERO CHANCE OF EVER BEING ON A "PUBLIC RAILWAY" AGAIN.