Before you buy this watch this video Klean-strip Aircraft Paint Remover.
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- Before you buy this klean strip product watch this video.
Here’s a demonstration of how this product performs on a automotive OEM finish.
This did not strip any of the paint. This paint remover did not work at all on this OEM e coat.
If you are trying to strip paint I would recommend trying a different product or consider having it sand blasted, media blasted, soda blasted etc etc.
This product was performed on a 1993 Nissan 240sx quarter panel.
Thanks for watching! 
Авто/Мото
gimme back my toxic chemicals gotdamn it!
Methylene Chloride (DCM)
i still have a can from 5 years ago ive been saving lol
I'll never forget the good old dayz when I used to repaint bikes, when jasco was top of the line miss those paint removers 😔
Thanks this video, and also you did great job to show what hapend
I bought some of their newer stuff. It’s like a clear/white goop, new formula and it worked on automotive paint pretty good. Still not as effective as the old stuff.
Have you tried the new formula klear strip premium that’s says 15 minutes on the front of can?
Its just like non chlorinated break cleaner. It becomes bout 60% less useful so you have to use 60% more. Seems more to eco friendly to use less off the effective stuff.
What works better then aircraft then
Same thing here. I was trying to remove old Red Oxide Primer and it wouldn't dent it. The only thing I tried that even halfway worked was some Jasco Paint Brush Cleaner that I have had for a while. I am not even sure it is still being sold. The Jasco Paint remover was ineffective. I finally wore it out with black hawk fiber discs and lacquer thinner.
It used to be amazing till they removed the toxic stuff
I used it on my 98 dodge ram that had a light coat of spray can bed liner over top of factory paint it striped it down to factory primer or ecoat
The stuff with methylene chloride was great. I’m trying to find a product that works similarly and is also regularly available as it’s hard to get the good stuff anymore
Can this work for hubcaps?
I juat tried this on some wheel faces. It barely removed clear and some of basecoat. It did not go down to metal in any areas. And this was after two thick coaats applied by brush.
Very disappointing especially because its expensive.
I bought a gallon of the new stuff not knowing they changed the formula. It did nothing. The old stuff would bubble up the paint and it was easy to remover. They made environmentally friendly. You can drink it but you can't remove paint with it.
John Imburgia sorry! wish you saw this video before spending your money. Unfortunately this stuff is not the same anymore. A very big disappointment. 👎🏼
Anyone have an alternative that works. Im disapointed that this doesnt work like it used to..smh
Webertek sunset strip expensive but it works
Jack leavitt thanks. Next time I strip something I’ll give it a shot.
Jack leavitt when was the last time you used it?
I know this is a old video but have you seen the klean strip ultra? It suppose to work like the old one.
No, I have not seen it or used it but I will give it a shot. Thank you.
@@Boostpastyou look forward to seeing the video
Do it on a actual painted panel that looks like the inside of a panel that's not even painted 🤣
Used to remove my tattoos , use as hand cream now - total crap
When that stuff had methylene chloride in it (back in the day) it was 100 times more powerful...
and carcinogenic
@@CIA_Is_aTerrorist_Orginization Yes, that's true. If I'm correct, the chemical itself isn't the killer but the fumes are. I still have a jug of 100% stuff
New formal only works well if the surface has been scuffed or sanded if not it was just crystallize on the surface and turn clear coat white.
Even scuffed or sanded with 80 grit still had nearly any effect on it. Only works if your trying to remove rattle can paint lol. Don’t spend your money
get yourself some PS 3010 aircraft stripper from a aircraft paint supplier …you spray it on and in 3 hours wash it off… done, that’s what we used stripping planes
You have to break the first Layer then apply the formula
wish i saw this before i bouth this crap
Man, never remove the e-coat. You’ll have to scratch with 80 grit to even stand a chance.
You have to scratch wire the paint really good then the paint remover
You mean to use a wire brush?
Says to sand first
I tried that method also still no difference. Thanks for the reply tho.
I sand my Camino grill with 80 grit and down past the clear coat and it started to activate. If you just apply it to the car without sanding it will only remove clear coating
Zero reason to strip that e coat. It's perfect condition and does not need to be removed. You're just creating extra work and expenses for yourself.
I don’t consider blister and blemishes in perfect condition sorry. Extra work with me is fine knowing that it’s prepped right. When doing a restoration going an extra mile won’t hurt. Thanks.
@@Boostpastyou First off, thanks for the video. Respectfully, I think both of your points are valid, to some degree.
I can see your point, in that if you are going to take the time to pull the fender, panel, etc., in order to restore it, you want that restoration to last as long as possible, and look, and be as perfect as you can possibly get it. So I get that. I am the same way.
But respectfully, I also have to say that I see Damage Inc's position on this particular panel, as well. Simply because 99% of the time, your average modern "e coat" (electro chemically bonded epoxy primer), tends to be harder than Chinese math, due to it's base composition (epoxy), bond characteristics, chip resistance, etc. Which is why it didn't "react" like that sprayed on, base coat/clear coat did t the end. That e-coat is an entirely different animal. Which is why I agree that as long as it doesn't have obvious signs of cancer anywhere underneath it, I would sand and smooth any rough areas, and keep it.
In regard to the stripper you used. I purchased that same can of worthless sh*t a year ago. It's a joke in comparison to a product I used for years, called Tal-Strip. Which, I can no longer get my grubby mitts on, of course. It was an aerosol application that would bubble five layers of whatever, down to the sheet metal in under 5 mins, like it was nothing.
The product I use now, that has been fairly effective, is Rust-oleum's "Aircraft Stripper." Works way better than the crap you tried, here. Thanks again, and good luck.
@M F > The EPA banned the sale of any product containing Methylene Chloride to the general public in May, 28. 2019
It is only available to industry’s who have filed papers for use, attended training and create a trail of this product from cradle to grave control.
Any paint / coatings manufactures around the world regarding “E-Coat” simply agree on one test. Take a paper towel, wet it medium heavy with thinner and place it on the panel, some ask you place a weight on it for good contact, wait 10 minutes and wipe. It the “E-Coat is not effected, clean with W/G remover and proceed with an 80 grit repair (Other repair require more obvious repair to be correct) but this is the standard test.
Methylene Chloride can become an “Asphyxiatent” if used in a an area without PPE, proper air flow and if allow to waft into a house attached to the garage, children maybe exposed and various medical issues can occur over time, with repeated use, time after time, as the DIY dude in the garage is stupid and does not realize that even a pet walking thru the garage may get it on its feet/paws/claws/beak/butt/feathers/tail or toy tied to its behind can possibly maybe cause issue maybe of the medical type.
Look, government never gets smaller. So similar to decades ago, Engineers designed a simple yet robust refrigerator. Most of these, actually a high number still work perfectly. But these engineers where not fired and lights shut off. Now, we have stainless steel, ice in the door and connected to the Internet. Besides an average of 3% rate of inflation, a close to high end fridge made in the US is one company and starts at $9,000.
About what a new Buick would cost in 1976. If dehydrated and need 12 cup holders, simulated wood grain and air bags that will take 4 minutes to fire all of them off during a roll over. They come with turn signals, but 12% use them. You drive 12 miles over the speed limit, but can go faster if the phone is off. Wonderful!
ASE Master Tech since 1978
@@deankay4434 thanks--just posted a "similar" comment above.
First of all, you are applying it to the under side of a panel where your e-coat is just fine. This should have been applied to an outer panel. Second, if you take the time to clean the top surface (already painted) , ruff it up with 40-80 grit sand paper, blow off the dust and sanded particles and then apply this product with a paint brush, then applying plastic over the top of the panel to force penetrate the strpper in to the open surfaces, you can achieve a much better result. Hope that helps 😀
E coat was not fine. It had tiny little blisters of rust popping threw, even more so on all the lower sections of the panel. There is absolutely no need for a 40 grit on a e-coat anyways. That’s the reason why I wanted to take the extra steps of prepping it the correct way. Can’t compare this formula to the old version. The old one never needed the help of sand paper to start stripping the paint. I’m just trying to help and show everyone the difference. Thanks for watching.
B
Don't use the cheap Gloves. They'll dissolve
PVC / Vinyl instead?
The New formula sucks
Great video,this stuff suck
Thank you! Yes this stuff is very disappointing to use.
This stuff isn’t much better than water. Sad and pathetic.
Agreed. I’m still frustrated about it. 😒
@@Boostpastyou what I’ve learned in the past two weeks of my futile efforts to acquire some is it’s not available for “retail” sale, simply put you can not buy it from a store. BUT, if you have a business and a tax ID there are several places you can order it from. It can only be sold to the end user not to a store for resale. Every person anywhere near it has to know it’s in use and be knowledgeable of its necessary care. Good luck I hope you can get it.
Caseway products is where I found this.
By checking this box purchaser agrees as follows: Any employees working directly with Methylene Chloride Solvent or within the vicinity of Methylene Chloride Solvent have read and fully understand the Methylene Chloride Solvent safety data sheet. Methylene Chloride Solvent will not be distributed in commerce (as defined in TSCA section 3(5)) or processed (as defined in TSCA section 3(13)) for consumer paint or coating removal. All employees directly and indirectly exposed to Methylene Chloride Solvent will be provided adequate equipment to meet all OSHA & local regulations for methylene chloride (dichloromethane). Purchaser and employees will abide by all local, state, and federal regulations regarding methylene chloride (dichloromethane). Purchaser and employees are aware of the potential dangers to health outlined in the Methylene Chloride Solvent safety data sheet. Certify that business name and ID number provided is true and accurate.
Thing is body shops done even know they can get it. Please share if you find out you can. Or not if you’re thinking it may hinder your future projects.
@@williamweesner226 Great info; I had heard "those in the business of stripping paint/etc"(besides the obvious military/government people) could get it. I inquired with a local company, but they never called back.
Will check into this--thanks, and keep posting this valuable info.
A big waste of money
Agreed 💯percent
Ummmmmmmmm am i the only one that see's he is using it on bare metal where is the paint.
Are you really serious
Jasco works the same same as regular clean strip both from Home Depot 50 bucks a gallon complete waste of money