A good shaper with the appropriate dust extraction leaves less dust than a bandsaw or a tablesaw . Then dust is recycled to waste management facilities where the wood dust is used for farms , gardening and highway safety . I agree , being clean shows respect to your trade and customers it proves how much you care . One of the many reasons that make me a fan of yours .
The danger of the waste jamming between the fence and the blade is eliminated if you make four extra cuts to reduce the size of the waste pieces. In your example, before you make the four cuts that remove the waste, ( between 8:20 and 8:45) make four cuts about half way along the length of the tenon to get rid of half the waste. These cuts to not need to be accurate; freehand is fine, as long as you don't cut into the tenon. By doing this, none of the waste pieces are big enough to jam. The advantage of this method? You do not have to move the fence, so you eliminate any error this may cause, and it is slightly quicker. Love your videos. :o)
I do believe cutting gauge is a valid term, but marking gauge is definitely the more common term. The circular saw method sounds interesting. I'd like to hear more about how you do that.
I use a table saw to set the depth of my tenons. Then use my ban saw to cut the waste off. Mostly cause im lazy and dont want to change tablesaw blades. Good video you do really good work
In my day job I’m an electrician. I work on equipment with high voltages and dangerous amounts of current, that could electrocute a me, or cause an arc flash resulting in the equipment exploding in my face causing severe disfiguring burns, inhalation of molten vaporized metal, and or a very painful death. Working as an electrician has taught me, to be exceptionally aware of my surroundings and were my hands and tools are at all times. I carry this hyper awareness over into my woodworking because I like my fingers to stay exactly where they are. Table saws are perfectly safe as long as you don’t do stupid things on them. I don’t need a Sawstop because I practice good table saw safety and I use common sense. If I’m not making dados my blade guard or riving knife is always in place to prevent binding and kickbacks. I use zero clearance inserts. I do not cut warped, bowed, cupped, or otherwise unstable work pieces on the table saw, until I’ve squared two sides to 90 degrees at my jointer. I avoid making crosscuts at the table saw with the exception of using a cross cut sled. I would NEVER be stupid enough to try cross cutting a work piece against the rip fence, where it could bind or launch a projectile piece of wood towards me. I only leave as much of the blade as I need exposed above the table. I use feather boards and push devices so my fingers are NEVER get close enough to the blade that I could be injured. If you just use common sense you probably won’t cut your fingers off.
Your method of teaching is very informative. I,m not sure about the quality of tenon I could make on my inexpensive little 10 inch Rikon as compared to your Powermatic but I'm sure curious to find out.
For a stop block, you could put a quick clamp on the right edge of your bandsaw table, so the stock hits it at the right depth. I actually I put an adjustable depth stop on the front of my bandsaw sled for lap joints (same idea). I prefer to cut the shoulders, first. And if doing only a few, or if doing a cross lap, I'll slot out the entire cheek like this. After chipping out the waste, I put it back and joint the cheek by sliding it back/forth against the blade. The stop keeps things square!
It was a defective guard on a chop saw - and trying to catch an unsupported board - that took my two fingertips. Too many of us out there. But in the end, it truly was the human factor, not the saw.
So since tenon's are multple rabbets. How do you cut rabbets for exactly half thickness? Think shiplap. half lap or in my case dbl rabbet box corners. I can't get them right. frustrated. Nice clear video
Hello and thank you for your video. I recently bought a 10 inch Band Saw made by jet and looking at the guides on it they don't look very adjustable so I was wondering if you have any suggestions on how I may be able to tune up the 10 inch Band Saw made by jet thank you any advice you could give would be really helpful.
Isn't it a general rule that if you are going to be one of the grammar police that you should at least make sure you are correct before calling someone out? Seat does indeed have a verb form which means "to fix firmly in place". touché
I didn't mention it because I don't necessarily believe that is true. Someone like David Marks swears by the use of a 1/2" blade for resawing veneer and I certainly can't argue with his results.
That's a heckuva wide blade, how wide is it? I assume you want something like that to make as straight a cut as possible. Good for resawing I bet. And carbide tipped, I've just got carbon blades from Tuffsaws in the UK, is carbide worth it?
hahah laguna blade and laguna drift master fence on a powermatic. awesome vid. I have used a router table with some sort of miter gauge, be that an actual miter gauge or just a square backer block. Also, an inch and a half bottom cleaning bit.
Great Video as always. I like your intro clip.... It's true saw stop sells there product on fear, I'm getting tired of that ad on the back of Woodworkers Journal. Delta machinery is in my blood. Delta has been in the family since 1956... Saw Stop won't replace my Table Saw. I have been using the bandsaw to make tenons since I was 13 years old, and really like it. It's nice that you can run a big blade on saw which allows you to have a better cut. Thanks for posting. Take care, Michael Frey
Oddly enough, Delta (and others) were all offered a manufacturing license by the inventor of Saw Stop, but considered our fingers not worth the expense. I use mostly hand tools, with a bandsaw for resawing and ripping but if I ever get another table saw (doubtful) it will certainly be one with the finger savin' feature. I play guitar and would really like to continue to do so.
Well you could, but the point of this video was to show how to do it on the bandsaw. Depending on the user, the results might not be as good. And if you have multiple tenons to cut, I definitely think the bandsaw would be faster.
It always seemed tedious and a waste of time to me to nibble off the edge of tenons. I’ve used my bandsaw as you show for years and never had a problem. It’s also faster and easier. Likewise the expensive heavy tool for making those ‘perfect’ cheek cuts on the table saw. I quit using mine years ago and eventually sold it.
Sorry, I hope I didn't come across as rude, I'm new to woodworking, so I'm just trying to get to know everything. I've watched a lot of these kind of videos, but haven't made much!
Couldn't you just use another stop-block when cutting away the excess material? That way, your shoulders should come out just as accurately as the first cuts you made.
HRRLutherie: I generally hand-cut all of my joinery, but was building a pallet wood lumber cart yesterday and just wanted to knock out four Buick 2x4 half laps where I wasn’t concerned with furniture-grade precision. My 14” Powermatic did a fine job, but I really do need to get a resaw blade; the 3/8” blade wanted to wonder a little bit. Keeping the feed rate down helped with the wondering.
My table say has a life time contract with me It's not going anywhere I'd have a hard time making my Adirondack Chairs with out it and before anyone says it yes i know a skill saw would do the trick to but thats on the risky side in my book
Cheeks and shoulders with one pass on the shaper and then bandsaw for width . That is the fastest way i know . If i did not have a shaper . Width and cheeks on bandsaw and then the shoulders on the tablesaw . I would have chosen smaller band on the saw though for a finer cut .
In my opinion if you are afraid of a table saw then find a new hobby because after a while if trying to figure out how to do certain projects without it I think you would get fead up with it I believe the table saw is number one most important tool after having common sense
Stopped it at 1:11,, fact is a GOOD machinist , of advanced years,, has all fingers and thumbs intact!! Losing a finger or part of one, is NOT evidence of one who learned the hard way,, it is proof that he /she was careless!! In 50 years of using machines for both wood and metal working, I am all digits intact, that's proof, of a good machinist! And I have never had the "safety" Gadgetry of today! this is all very "school" woodworking lessons,, for repeat tenons,, just buy a Tenoning machine, you will save bundles in time and electric!
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
A good shaper with the appropriate dust extraction leaves less dust than a bandsaw or a tablesaw . Then dust is recycled to waste management facilities where the wood dust is used for farms , gardening and highway safety . I agree , being clean shows respect to your trade and customers it proves how much you care . One of the many reasons that make me a fan of yours .
The danger of the waste jamming between the fence and the blade is eliminated if you make four extra cuts to reduce the size of the waste pieces. In your example, before you make the four cuts that remove the waste, ( between 8:20 and 8:45) make four cuts about half way along the length of the tenon to get rid of half the waste. These cuts to not need to be accurate; freehand is fine, as long as you don't cut into the tenon. By doing this, none of the waste pieces are big enough to jam.
The advantage of this method? You do not have to move the fence, so you eliminate any error this may cause, and it is slightly quicker.
Love your videos. :o)
Very well done. I love having a bandsaw in the shop. Thanks!
I love the "Tower of Power " intro as well as your videos !
Excellent Tips and instruction on tenon joints.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Thanks
Wonderful ,this guy is great at what he does
ABSOLUTELY.....been using a table saw for over 40 years and I still have almost all my fingers.
I do believe cutting gauge is a valid term, but marking gauge is definitely the more common term.
The circular saw method sounds interesting. I'd like to hear more about how you do that.
Love the introduction. Thanks, Marc.
Yup. I really only use it for marquetry, which I haven't done in years. The scroll saw lives in a back storage room. :)
I use a table saw to set the depth of my tenons. Then use my ban saw to cut the waste off. Mostly cause im lazy and dont want to change tablesaw blades. Good video you do really good work
Thanks for the tip! I'm also lazy.
Since we're not really permitted dado stacks in the UK, bandsaw cutting a tenon on a long piece is the best solution I think.
In my day job I’m an electrician. I work on equipment with high voltages and dangerous amounts of current, that could electrocute a me, or cause an arc flash resulting in the equipment exploding in my face causing severe disfiguring burns, inhalation of molten vaporized metal, and or a very painful death. Working as an electrician has taught me, to be exceptionally aware of my surroundings and were my hands and tools are at all times. I carry this hyper awareness over into my woodworking because I like my fingers to stay exactly where they are.
Table saws are perfectly safe as long as you don’t do stupid things on them. I don’t need a Sawstop because I practice good table saw safety and I use common sense. If I’m not making dados my blade guard or riving knife is always in place to prevent binding and kickbacks. I use zero clearance inserts. I do not cut warped, bowed, cupped, or otherwise unstable work pieces on the table saw, until I’ve squared two sides to 90 degrees at my jointer. I avoid making crosscuts at the table saw with the exception of using a cross cut sled. I would NEVER be stupid enough to try cross cutting a work piece against the rip fence, where it could bind or launch a projectile piece of wood towards me. I only leave as much of the blade as I need exposed above the table. I use feather boards and push devices so my fingers are NEVER get close enough to the blade that I could be injured. If you just use common sense you probably won’t cut your fingers off.
I have only ever made tenons using a tenoner, but I have seen a really great router jig by Trend that cuts tenons.
I've never worked with an accurate bandsaw, and from the looks of it, they are quite useful XD.
Your method of teaching is very informative. I,m not sure about the quality of tenon I could make on my inexpensive little 10 inch Rikon as compared to your Powermatic but I'm sure curious to find out.
Great explanation! Now to find out how to do the mortise!!!😂. Many thanks 👏👏👏
Bandsaw in my book is a necessary tool in a good shop. One of my favorite all around tool
For a stop block, you could put a quick clamp on the right edge of your bandsaw table, so the stock hits it at the right depth.
I actually I put an adjustable depth stop on the front of my bandsaw sled for lap joints (same idea). I prefer to cut the shoulders, first. And if doing only a few, or if doing a cross lap, I'll slot out the entire cheek like this. After chipping out the waste, I put it back and joint the cheek by sliding it back/forth against the blade. The stop keeps things square!
No sweat. Always glad to get comments and questions.
It was a defective guard on a chop saw - and trying to catch an unsupported board - that took my two fingertips. Too many of us out there. But in the end, it truly was the human factor, not the saw.
So since tenon's are multple rabbets. How do you cut rabbets for exactly half thickness? Think shiplap. half lap or in my case dbl rabbet box corners. I can't get them right. frustrated. Nice clear video
totally agree!
Hello and thank you for your video. I recently bought a 10 inch Band Saw made by jet and looking at the guides on it they don't look very adjustable so I was wondering if you have any suggestions on how I may be able to tune up the 10 inch Band Saw made by jet thank you any advice you could give would be really helpful.
If you can figure out a good way to get a stop block in position for that cut, yes.
Isn't it a general rule that if you are going to be one of the grammar police that you should at least make sure you are correct before calling someone out? Seat does indeed have a verb form which means "to fix firmly in place". touché
Thanks!
That is a Lagune Resaw King. It is pretty bad ass. :)
Great video! The first minute had me rolling for an hour. Arlie is a good sport! :-)
I didn't mention it because I don't necessarily believe that is true. Someone like David Marks swears by the use of a 1/2" blade for resawing veneer and I certainly can't argue with his results.
As always, Thank You
That's a heckuva wide blade, how wide is it? I assume you want something like that to make as straight a cut as possible. Good for resawing I bet. And carbide tipped, I've just got carbon blades from Tuffsaws in the UK, is carbide worth it?
Great video, Marc. I love the intro!
hahah laguna blade and laguna drift master fence on a powermatic. awesome vid. I have used a router table with some sort of miter gauge, be that an actual miter gauge or just a square backer block. Also, an inch and a half bottom cleaning bit.
Great Video as always. I like your intro clip.... It's true saw stop sells there product on fear, I'm getting tired of that ad on the back of Woodworkers Journal. Delta machinery is in my blood. Delta has been in the family since 1956... Saw Stop won't replace my Table Saw. I have been using the bandsaw to make tenons since I was 13 years old, and really like it. It's nice that you can run a big blade on saw which allows you to have a better cut. Thanks for posting.
Take care, Michael Frey
Oddly enough, Delta (and others) were all offered a manufacturing license by the inventor of Saw Stop, but considered our fingers not worth the expense. I use mostly hand tools, with a bandsaw for resawing and ripping but if I ever get another table saw (doubtful) it will certainly be one with the finger savin' feature. I play guitar and would really like to continue to do so.
That's a great review.
Well you could, but the point of this video was to show how to do it on the bandsaw. Depending on the user, the results might not be as good. And if you have multiple tenons to cut, I definitely think the bandsaw would be faster.
Like your Tipped band, are they HSS or tungsten
Nice job
hahah laguna blade and laguna drift master fence on a powermatic. awesome vid.
There is a difference between fine wood working and hobbyist wood working. But yes, you are correct if you create something for fast and repetitive.
It always seemed tedious and a waste of time to me to nibble off the edge of tenons. I’ve used my bandsaw as you show for years and never had a problem. It’s also faster and easier. Likewise the expensive heavy tool for making those ‘perfect’ cheek cuts on the table saw. I quit using mine years ago and eventually sold it.
thank you
What kind of marking gauge is that you use in this video
What kind of blade are you using?
Sorry, I hope I didn't come across as rude, I'm new to woodworking, so I'm just trying to get to know everything. I've watched a lot of these kind of videos, but haven't made much!
My bad. RUclips doesn't quite make it obvious enough when someone is replying to someone else. Sorry about that.
Why do you say unsafe? I make nearly all of my mortises with a router.
He said you can make tenons on a router. I have nothing against mortises on a router, and I use that a lot.
Probably 'cause so many woodworkers started before video games were invented. Even the Creepy Severed Finger Dude has gray hair! LOL!
I was thinking my how young you look, then I realized this is from 8 years ago.
If one had the luxury of a vertical milling machine making these tenons would be sooooooo easy...
Get the plans for Matthias Wandel's pantorouter then.
You can make tenons using the router.
Its nice just to use the thing. I'm definitely not worthy! :)
i call that very "normal". :)
That's video on tenons 172
Burn!!! Too bad I missed the original comment. I can imagine though.
I would recommend using a router
A bench drill with a chisel bit
Couldn't you just use another stop-block when cutting away the excess material? That way, your shoulders should come out just as accurately as the first cuts you made.
Couldn't you cut shoulders even faster with a tenon saw, just because there's so little set up.
HRRLutherie: I generally hand-cut all of my joinery, but was building a pallet wood lumber cart yesterday and just wanted to knock out four Buick 2x4 half laps where I wasn’t concerned with furniture-grade precision. My 14” Powermatic did a fine job, but I really do need to get a resaw blade; the 3/8” blade wanted to wonder a little bit. Keeping the feed rate down helped with the wondering.
Fairly unsafe, but mortises work very well with a router.
I will just use the Domino
making a tennon? easy, get a really fine saw, and clean it up with a chisel, and if thats not good enough you could also use a router table
He was talking about me
My table say has a life time contract with me It's not going anywhere I'd have a hard time making my Adirondack Chairs with out it and before anyone says it yes i know a skill saw would do the trick to but thats on the risky side in my book
Doesn't anyone use skill a hand tenon saw and a sharp chisel anymore!.
Chisel ?
Quá OK tôi thích cái cưa tôi có thể mua ở đâu bạn
Looks like he cut them all off a little bit. Them are some short chubby little fingers.
Here's a link to Matthias demo'ing the process
watch?v=PDPrFJazD3Q
Cheeks and shoulders with one pass on the shaper and then bandsaw for width . That is the fastest way i know . If i did not have a shaper . Width and cheeks on bandsaw and then the shoulders on the tablesaw . I would have chosen smaller band on the saw though for a finer cut .
In my opinion if you are afraid of a table saw then find a new hobby because after a while if trying to figure out how to do certain projects without it I think you would get fead up with it I believe the table saw is number one most important tool after having common sense
small mind syndrome
lawn mower accident :)
The table saw can be just as safe as any other too l if u keep u'r wits about u and use common sense!
Stopped it at 1:11,, fact is a GOOD machinist , of advanced years,, has all fingers and thumbs intact!! Losing a finger or part of one, is NOT evidence of one who learned the hard way,, it is proof that he /she was careless!! In 50 years of using machines for both wood and metal working, I am all digits intact, that's proof, of a good machinist! And I have never had the "safety" Gadgetry of today! this is all very "school" woodworking lessons,, for repeat tenons,, just buy a Tenoning machine, you will save bundles in time and electric!
A tablesaw is as dangerous as a bandsaw.
Parli troppo