@@mkzenthusiasts they sell a pigtail to fix the harness side but they don't sell the fuse box separately in that burn spot around the pin goes through the box so there's no fixing that
That's ridiculous and to think they want to conform to the Leftist green agenda forcing you to buy an entire wire harness to get the fuse box. Stupid come on ford help your customers out
The ju2z-14s411-ata is the replacement harness pigtail? I'm up against the same issue, just looking to get a connector assembly so I can re-pin and drop in a used fuse box.
Heated/cooled seats are such an luxury but unneeded. I’ve lived my hole 34yrs of life up to last year w/o heated/cooled seats I forget my Lincoln has that luxury lol. When I do remember it’s such an enjoyment. Great video to show us how to fix the seats
Unfortunately we got way to complicated in these newer cars just to have comfort features. I thought back in the day if you had ac, power windows & locks, cruise control and tilt wheel you were in luxury.
Just saved me so much time! Same condition. Both seats heat and ac inop. No codes in system. Pulled the fuse box and connector and the big violet/orange wire is completely melted into the connector and fuse box is also melted. Thank you!!!
I see burnt connecting pins a lot as a slot machine technician. Pins that are not grabing the pin enough causing arcing during vibration. It is not the current but the arc it self as hot, oxidizing and burning the material until there is no longer a path for voltage to flow. This is way I ask people to try and not knock on the displays too much, because even older molex connectors get burned up with a bad connection between pins that the constant knock on a monitor over time will have that happen and then the display has not power. Wonder why we ask to keep things to a minimum. Have a good day all.
Lifesaver! Exactly what happened to my 16’ 5.0. Found the burnt connector, it was a pain in the ass to de-pin and take apart the melted connector but once that was done it was a piece of cake to re-pin into a new connector. Split the “ground” into the pin not used and it works great! Not sure how much money I saved but proud I was able to do it myself.
Yeah there's a number of ways that you could actually do this but because I work for the dealer and because it's going through warranty we can't do certain things so
Is there an unused pin/lead not used that is a second ground? I have seen issues off the module under passenger seat and the replacement plug offers a second ground wire. If at the fusebox which pin is the second ground? Thanks for all your info and efforts.
Just came upon your video referencing this. I'm currently on RockAuto and buying some things and thought I might need to replace the seat cooling fans as they might've went inoperable but I remembered they once worked and then, poof, they didn't for both seats. Glad I'm not wasting the money on these cause this is most likely the culprit. Appreciate the video 1year later.
Thanks so much for this information! This is my exact problem. The pin on the fuse box isn’t burned up very bad at all. I believe I will just replace that harness/clip that plugs into the fuse box. But a HUGE appreciation to you sir. This saved me a lot of time👊
Amazing tracing of problem. Thank you for posting and thank you for continually sharing with us. Truly appreciate what you do day in and day out. Keep grinding.
Yeah this one I had to go back old school pull out the wiring diagram and try to troubleshoot it the old school and a lot of times that's what ends up showing the problem
AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR CHANNEL I LEARN ALOT FROM YOU WHICH HELPS ME SAVE MONEY AND TIME I AM NOT NEW TO WORKING ON ACRS OR TRUCKS BUT THIS NEWER STUFF YOUR EXPERIENCE TEACHES ME ALOT AGAIN THANK YOU
Dude. You are an absolute life saver. I needed that wiring diagram and where it routed. My wifes Explorer Sport was doing the exact same thing. Mine burned up on the plug under the drivers kick panel. I just jumped the connector for now. I can cancel the appointment with the Ford dealer now. I got the plug and pins on order. On a side note Theses systems must be getting cheaper and cheaper with the manufacturers. I have Ac and heat seat in my 2013 Nissan Armada (150k on it) never had too touch them. The plastic on the dash is cracking already on it just like my heavily used Titan but neither of them have had electrical issues like this new stuff. WTH is happening. Just a thought.....
Add another example to the list of why I'd never buy a vehicle loaded with craptronics. The manufacturers and dealers make a killing on rolling money pits after the warranty expires.
Boy does this remind me back in the day about how many Ford Econolines had burnt connectors at the blower motor resistor boards. I can't count how many of those I had to replace and motorcraft sells the wire repair kit for those. Also the rubber hose that circulate the air back to the resistor board would always be clogged up with debris or oxidization crude.
One thing I love is the heated seats with my physical problems. I hope the aftermarket warranty can help those folks. If they don't can you put a heavy jumper wire in with inline fuse? 🙂🐶
I’m betting our 2018 explorer platinum has the sane issue. Once I confirm it’s a burned connector at the fuse box, can I jump that wire directly to the battery with a 30Amp inline fuse?
You sure can. My 2018 explorer has the same burned pin and I just cut the wire and installed an inline fuse and connected directly to the battery. Heated seats work again
This video is extremely helpful!! Potential solutions as burnt wire under hood fuse box in my 2016 explorer. i splice wire you pointed out and connect to a 30amp tap wire in aux fuse spot that is empty so only the wire you define is run on that. that solves the ignition power issue of a 30 amp inline directly to the battery. Will that be a solution? understand this is not official ford explanation just a dyier trying to fix it himself and find some answers. Really appreciate it!
The common problem is the connection under the passenger seat there are relays under the passenger seat that control they replaced the pigtail on mine under the passenger seat. I've never seen that pin fry in the engine bay but I have a Lincoln MKZ & thier is a kit for the MKZ that comes with a new pigtail you don't replace the entire harness and depending on how fired that connection is under the passenger seat which is where my relays are located they may replace that module. My heated seats work so great that I can't leave them on low it cooks me and I hate the cold but my seats now get super hot that TED is amazing
Unfortunately that is not how this particular system works even though I have seen what you're talking about under the passenger seat I also find just as many problems under the driver seat with the main driver seat module
a peron i work with bought a new 2020 f350 and his heated seats stopped working...dealer told him its because he parks facing the sun in the afternoon and it overheats the heat pad...warranty replaced the pads,but have you ever heard of that one.
I cut the wire he identifies in this video and bought a 30amp inline fuse off Amazon and connected that wire directly to the positive on the battery and I now have heated seats working again. And with the inline 30amp fuse the circuit is still protected. Took about 30 minutes.
Any loose connection will create heat its a proven fact ,just provide enough current draw and things will begin to melt . Im an industrial maintenance tech , we have preventive maintenance on control panels for all our machines , and you wouldn't believe how many loose connections we find caused by vibration !
Man, everyone's doing harnesses. CSW has two different vehicles, well one now with major harness replacements, now you as well. Those look like such a pain to work with since you never get enough room to work with, everything is so thick, tear so much out to get at everything. Good info on why it might burn out as well. Don't like how the materials Ford decides to use is the problem, I pray it wont happen to mine!
The price of the harness surprised me, I've learning one thing working on cars and trucks...if the part is $800 it takes 30 mins to install....If the part is $10 you have to do what you said in bumper, Dash tear down....yea I'm kinda being a smart ass
I'm no expert, but I think it's more a bad connection situation (lower quality material as you said) rather than prolonged current draw. Otherwise the wire insulation would have melted too. If it was an out-of-warranty car and you were not at a dealership, you can bypass that plug for that 1 wire. Will be maybe 1 hour of work, 2 splices and 6" of wire. I must be watching too much Eric O.
@fordbossme Only my driver seat is having an issue. Thr passenger seat works fine. You wouldn't suspect this right? Would you suspect the connector under the seat at that point?. Sounds like just replacing that connector is what people do.
Hey Ford boss! Thanks for the video. My 2016 Explorer driver side is the only seat that the heated function doesn’t work on. The car says it’s on the seat itself doesn’t heat up. Could it be the same problem or could something just maybe not be plugged in?
Happy new year My Drivers seat 2017 explorer xlt. No heat on drivers seat yet passenger seat functions fine My logic is if one functions yet not the other then it should not be a fuse or module problem. Current serve both and both should not function. Likely the elimate ( heat pad ) drivers side needs replacement Am i wrong to assume that?
Very often it's as simple as a loose pin fit that causes excess heat when in operation. I've had good luck cutting the wire inside the fuse box, add a wire to run outside the fuse box, cut the wire from the male connector, and make your own spade single wire connector.
You have to remember I can't do stuff like that because of liability reasons and because of who I work for so you might be able to do that but you always have to think in the back of your mind I bet you this guy can't do that because of how his hands are tied
@@FordBossMe Whole nother ballgame working at dealership vs indy shop. At dealerships it has to be by the book unless it's an approved service bulletin fix. My comment was aimed at others, cause you even mentioned power it up differently in your vid but then said no. I've worked for a Ford dealer and you HAVE to follow policy PERIOD...I was not trying to slight you or be critical.
I would love to learn more. This exact scenario has happened to my 2016 Ford Explorer and now have been without my heated/cooled seats for a year now. Is there a cheap work around to make them work again? If so could you break it down further? Thanks.
Hey man, I've been threw this issue a few times, usually I get the connector pigtail & the 1 section of the Fuse panel it can be changed/ purchased separately from the whole box. Still overpriced though, I think continuous use of the heated seats causes this, I'm in Northern Canada and people usually don't turn off the heated seats in the winter. If the electronics were more robust/ designed better they'd probably last longer and work fine but do agree Ford seems to cheap out on stuff like this.
Yeah unfortunately through the Ford parts catalog it did not have a breakdown of different options to order so our parts department said that it would have to be ordered as a whole unit
I'm wondering if the aftermarket warranty actually covers that. If it's vague, I wonder if they'll deny the claim, or if they'll stretch their way into it if they know you're envolved. I'm thinking you might be well known and they don't want bad "press", so to speak. I'll be tuning in.
My passenger seat heater works. Drivers side does not. What should I be looking for? Should i be looking at the cable that runs from the module to that specific seat?
Those terminator pins on the wires are simply too small a gauge for the current. Either that or the fitment of the blade to receptacle doesn't have enough surface area to carry the current. Its another engineering boondoggle using hardware that isn't capable of doing the job. Being 6 years old and likely not a warranty item, plus the connector is easy to access right there at the fuse box, I get a new fuse box or replace that terminator inside the fuse box if available and then I would replace the plastic connector on the wire loom only. Meaning, disassemble all of the wires/pins from the existing connector housing, repair the one violet terminator and then assemble all of the wires into a new connector. Its the least invasive method, cheapest method and it repairs what is needed. Installing a complete wire loom is of course the best and cleanest method but I don't put a lot of value in the cost and the fact that there is a lot of invasive work that could be avoided. Tearing into the interior of this vehicle would likely cause a lot of plastic damage that can't be avoided so the collateral damages will have a long list and no one really wants that happening. Those terminals inside the connector can be released by a tiny "ear" that retains them. I'd confirm pin fitment once complete to be sure no over heating will occur.
If it's not blowing cold more than likely it's the motors themselves under the seat the Thermal electric device need to be replaced or it's a connection problem you're going to have to go through it and do some research and start taking stuff apart
@@FordBossMe also realized the passenger side doesn’t blow it all (can’t hear it anyway). Blue lights light up for both. Hope warranty I bought covers it…
If you don’t mind I have a 2010 Ford Escape with abs light brake light traction control and the wrench light on. It started out with showing the left speed sensor then went to the right back and left rear and the a battery out of range code. Fuses are good check the ground and sensors show good. All lights are on as soon as I start the car. Any thoughts wound be appreciated
If it's not a hybrid and it's a regular Escape you probably are going to have to put a battery in it and reset all the codes and if it has a battery monitor sensor you're going to have to reset that as well
Hi I am new to your channel, I own a Ford Explorer 2017 Sport, and the seats ac and heat are no working, the Ford dealership hold the car for 3 weeks, they claim that did change the seats modulo, but it did not work, they suggested to call an engineer from the main ford corporation. on you humble opinion what would recommend to be the next thing to check. sorry if I type to much, and I thank you for your opinion if you do chare with me.
Check all the basic fuses and connections and sometimes it's not the actual seat module sometimes it's the control head that controls the regular ACS as well it's called the front control interface module that tells the seats to turn on
With a 2015 mkz hybrid, the front heated seats and side heat for the mirrors stopped working. But everything else works with them. Would this be the same issue or could it be something else, too? The infotainment screen says it is on and no codes are thrown. The rear heated seats still work. Would you mind telling me what order to check fuses and modules etc?
Honestly I couldn't possibly tell you that all that over a text message it would just take way too long to walk you through that and to send wiring diagrams and everything I would have to be at home and I'm on vacation right now so you're asking me to do something I'm not even able to do currently at this moment
Start with resetting the BMS which is the battery monitor sensor and see if the stuff comes back online I have videos in the library or you can go back to the main search engine on RUclips and type in Ford boss battery monitor reset
Connectors insufficient for the seats. After working years in the military and seeing the connectors used in armored vehicles they make automotive connectors appear cheap and they are in comparison, in fact there is no comparison.
Most of us don’t have pentagon level budgets when buying cars, so manufacturers set specs to meet price targets. We also hopefully don’t need our vehicles to function after running over an IED
Go through my videos and start looking at the diagnostic process that it takes to go through everything I can't answer your question just by saying what are your thoughts I've dumped lots of time and energy into making these videos for people to learn I'm not just going to answer one little question here in the comments section when there's tons of information for you to go over and learn from
I had a 2018 F550 the blower motor didn't work so i was checking for power and it had so I was trying to remove the harness and.it.was hard.to remove it so I got it out and it was melted plastic I replaced the Blower motor and Pig tail
NEED TO ASK A QUESTION/ WHAT IS THE BLACK TRIM DRIAN VENT THINGS UNDER THE WIPER ARMS ,IT GOES ALL THE WAY FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER UNDER THE WINDSHIELD CAN YOU HELP ME THANK YOU
hey man i got a 2022 mustang with the 10A, the thing whines super loud when at running temp, ford claims its "normal" and "within spec" and the whine is coming from the pump in the trans, do you think replacing the gears on the pump would reduce/get rid of the whine?
@@FordBossMe thanks for the response brother, while part of me just wants to say screw it, if ford says it's not harming anything(other than my mental state LOL) then who cares, but when im in traffic/drive through or got anything next to me, it does get embarrassing because it's so audible. do you think it's becoming a big enough complaint that ford will put out a fix for it under warranty? or would it really need to be causing harm/damage for that to happen?
Can i cut that wire in the hood and install a 30amp inline fuse and connect directly to the battery? If anyone has done this can you share a photo or instructions.. thank you
You can do that but that means that module is going to have power all the time you're going to have to find a way to turn it on and turn it off or you're going to have to go to an ignition Source that's power only when the keys on
I have a 2016 explorer platinum.. burnt exactly where you said.. can i connect the inline amp to the red wire feeding the entire fuse box? is that ignition source?@@FordBossMe
@@FordBossMe - another big terminal near the “hot one” did look a little bit green in your thumbnail pic - water pooling? Did you replace that PDB to be able to see if water got in it?
@@dennislyon5412 I mean the video does spell out the whole entire story and would answer your question if you watched the video all the way through I'm not sure if you did but if you go back and watch it all the way through your question is answered in the video
more cheap garbage.....too small guage wire and terminals for the current load traveling through it. Every year the wiring and electrical connectors get cheaper and cheaper.
GREAT.... I use my Heated/Cooled Seats EVERY DAY on my Brand NEW 2022 F-150. Wonderful thing to look forward to??? I would have thought that FORD Would have "FIXED" this Issue By NOW??? Seems Like a BAD DESIGNto me. And..... It has a "30" AMP FUSE. That is 220 VAC Household Dryer Current Amperage!!! Need's Heavier Duty "S T U F F!!! Just an Observation on My Part 🤷♂
I really think we have turned into pussies. No heated seats or cooled seats in my 84 Thunderbird, But they are the most comfortable seats ever made. Everyone who has ever sat in my car wants to know why car companies don't make seats like this. I say they think they do.
The connector number with the burned up pin is ju2z-14s411-ata
The part number for the complete wiring harness is as follows
GB5Z-14290-V
I bet they sell a pigtail to fix that that means a whole Lotta soldering
@@mkzenthusiasts they sell a pigtail to fix the harness side but they don't sell the fuse box separately in that burn spot around the pin goes through the box so there's no fixing that
That's ridiculous and to think they want to conform to the Leftist green agenda forcing you to buy an entire wire harness to get the fuse box. Stupid come on ford help your customers out
The ju2z-14s411-ata is the replacement harness pigtail?
I'm up against the same issue, just looking to get a connector assembly so I can re-pin and drop in a used fuse box.
Heated/cooled seats are such an luxury but unneeded. I’ve lived my hole 34yrs of life up to last year w/o heated/cooled seats I forget my Lincoln has that luxury lol. When I do remember it’s such an enjoyment. Great video to show us how to fix the seats
Woof! 🐶
@@troublemakingpups5787 aroooo!
Eh not with the crappy ac that came in my '13 F150. Cooled seats are a crutch.
Unfortunately we got way to complicated in these newer cars just to have comfort features. I thought back in the day if you had ac, power windows & locks, cruise control and tilt wheel you were in luxury.
Yep, K.I.S.S., words to live by
Just saved me so much time! Same condition. Both seats heat and ac inop. No codes in system. Pulled the fuse box and connector and the big violet/orange wire is completely melted into the connector and fuse box is also melted. Thank you!!!
Glad it helped
I see burnt connecting pins a lot as a slot machine technician. Pins that are not grabing the pin enough causing arcing during vibration. It is not the current but the arc it self as hot, oxidizing and burning the material until there is no longer a path for voltage to flow. This is way I ask people to try and not knock on the displays too much, because even older molex connectors get burned up with a bad connection between pins that the constant knock on a monitor over time will have that happen and then the display has not power. Wonder why we ask to keep things to a minimum. Have a good day all.
Lifesaver! Exactly what happened to my 16’ 5.0. Found the burnt connector, it was a pain in the ass to de-pin and take apart the melted connector but once that was done it was a piece of cake to re-pin into a new connector. Split the “ground” into the pin not used and it works great! Not sure how much money I saved but proud I was able to do it myself.
Yeah there's a number of ways that you could actually do this but because I work for the dealer and because it's going through warranty we can't do certain things so
Is there an unused pin/lead not used that is a second ground? I have seen issues off the module under passenger seat and the replacement plug offers a second ground wire. If at the fusebox which pin is the second ground? Thanks for all your info and efforts.
@@keithcastleberry3993 correct, mine was the pin right next to the burnt one that was used as a second ground.
@@jacobjanssen8338 at 3:08 in the video it shows the connector. Is the second ground above the burnt one or to the left?
@@nextronics1 my second ground was to the left
I appreciate you, you always are trying to help people and i know you arent bsing about things, and i trust you with everything you say
Just came upon your video referencing this. I'm currently on RockAuto and buying some things and thought I might need to replace the seat cooling fans as they might've went inoperable but I remembered they once worked and then, poof, they didn't for both seats. Glad I'm not wasting the money on these cause this is most likely the culprit. Appreciate the video 1year later.
Thanks so much for this information! This is my exact problem. The pin on the fuse box isn’t burned up very bad at all. I believe I will just replace that harness/clip that plugs into the fuse box. But a HUGE appreciation to you sir. This saved me a lot of time👊
You're welcome!
Amazing tracing of problem. Thank you for posting and thank you for continually sharing with us. Truly appreciate what you do day in and day out. Keep grinding.
Yeah this one I had to go back old school pull out the wiring diagram and try to troubleshoot it the old school and a lot of times that's what ends up showing the problem
AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR CHANNEL I LEARN ALOT FROM YOU WHICH HELPS ME SAVE MONEY AND TIME I AM NOT NEW TO WORKING ON ACRS OR TRUCKS BUT THIS NEWER STUFF YOUR EXPERIENCE TEACHES ME ALOT AGAIN THANK YOU
Same problem on my 2018 ford explorer, nice to see you ideas on the very same problem ❤️
Dude. You are an absolute life saver. I needed that wiring diagram and where it routed. My wifes Explorer Sport was doing the exact same thing. Mine burned up on the plug under the drivers kick panel. I just jumped the connector for now. I can cancel the appointment with the Ford dealer now. I got the plug and pins on order.
On a side note Theses systems must be getting cheaper and cheaper with the manufacturers. I have Ac and heat seat in my 2013 Nissan Armada (150k on it) never had too touch them. The plastic on the dash is cracking already on it just like my heavily used Titan but neither of them have had electrical issues like this new stuff. WTH is happening. Just a thought.....
Original has only one ground, new part wpt-928 has 2. Works great
Add another example to the list of why I'd never buy a vehicle loaded with craptronics. The manufacturers and dealers make a killing on rolling money pits after the warranty expires.
Thank you for the video and the answer with regards to what could have caused that issue. I guess I'll stay away from heated seats, etc.
Boy does this remind me back in the day about how many Ford Econolines had burnt connectors at the blower motor resistor boards. I can't count how many of those I had to replace and motorcraft sells the wire repair kit for those.
Also the rubber hose that circulate the air back to the resistor board would always be clogged up with debris or oxidization crude.
Thanks for the video, I never would have checked under my fuse box.
Glad it helped
One thing I love is the heated seats with my physical problems. I hope the aftermarket warranty can help those folks. If they don't can you put a heavy jumper wire in with inline fuse? 🙂🐶
Obviously it's drawing too much amperage for the circuit. Poor design? I would add a relay.
aftermarket warranties will weasel their way out of paying. Always best to get the Ford Extended warranty.
I’m betting our 2018 explorer platinum has the sane issue. Once I confirm it’s a burned connector at the fuse box, can I jump that wire directly to the battery with a 30Amp inline fuse?
You sure can. My 2018 explorer has the same burned pin and I just cut the wire and installed an inline fuse and connected directly to the battery. Heated seats work again
This video is extremely helpful!! Potential solutions as burnt wire under hood fuse box in my 2016 explorer. i splice wire you pointed out and connect to a 30amp tap wire in aux fuse spot that is empty so only the wire you define is run on that. that solves the ignition power issue of a 30 amp inline directly to the battery. Will that be a solution? understand this is not official ford explanation just a dyier trying to fix it himself and find some answers. Really appreciate it!
The common problem is the connection under the passenger seat there are relays under the passenger seat that control they replaced the pigtail on mine under the passenger seat. I've never seen that pin fry in the engine bay but I have a Lincoln MKZ & thier is a kit for the MKZ that comes with a new pigtail you don't replace the entire harness and depending on how fired that connection is under the passenger seat which is where my relays are located they may replace that module. My heated seats work so great that I can't leave them on low it cooks me and I hate the cold but my seats now get super hot that TED is amazing
Unfortunately that is not how this particular system works even though I have seen what you're talking about under the passenger seat I also find just as many problems under the driver seat with the main driver seat module
a peron i work with bought a new 2020 f350 and his heated seats stopped working...dealer told him its because he parks facing the sun in the afternoon and it overheats the heat pad...warranty replaced the pads,but have you ever heard of that one.
Maybe that’s why I love my 2005 F250 XL 2wd truck.
No bells & whistles extras to fail on that truck.
Jeep has a similar problem with the multi switch for the headlight,turn signal. The high beams pin would overheat and scorch the connector.
I cut the wire he identifies in this video and bought a 30amp inline fuse off Amazon and connected that wire directly to the positive on the battery and I now have heated seats working again. And with the inline 30amp fuse the circuit is still protected. Took about 30 minutes.
Hi I would like to do this but unsure exactly how.. do you have picture or write your procedure to do this with what 30amp you bought.. thank you
Any loose connection will create heat its a proven fact ,just provide enough current draw and things will begin to melt . Im an industrial maintenance tech , we have preventive maintenance on control panels for all our machines , and you wouldn't believe how many loose connections we find caused by vibration !
👋Sir, very nice explanation and information, blessings
Decades ago, TRW supplied wire harnesses for the Ford Ranger. This certainly sounds like a QC issue with Ford design and parts supplier.
Man, everyone's doing harnesses. CSW has two different vehicles, well one now with major harness replacements, now you as well. Those look like such a pain to work with since you never get enough room to work with, everything is so thick, tear so much out to get at everything. Good info on why it might burn out as well. Don't like how the materials Ford decides to use is the problem, I pray it wont happen to mine!
thank you you saved me
Thanks!
Had this same exact issue in my bag this week
The price of the harness surprised me, I've learning one thing working on cars and trucks...if the part is $800 it takes 30 mins to install....If the part is $10 you have to do what you said in bumper, Dash tear down....yea I'm kinda being a smart ass
Wow! Nice work!
I'm no expert, but I think it's more a bad connection situation (lower quality material as you said) rather than prolonged current draw. Otherwise the wire insulation would have melted too. If it was an out-of-warranty car and you were not at a dealership, you can bypass that plug for that 1 wire. Will be maybe 1 hour of work, 2 splices and 6" of wire. I must be watching too much Eric O.
I bet you carry a full size after market spare tire too. Common sense not that common anymore.
I was thinking about this but just assumed the connection was beyond repair
If the warranty company declines would you give the customer the option of paying you to splice in your own fused circuit?
Yes
@@FordBossMe 👍🏻
I do what you do. Thank you!
Link to the discord to continue talking to the community & to ask questions
discord.gg/nr2gMkxhVQ
Thx bro. Preciatte yah
Spend 30 bucks on a solder gun and a 12 in of wire. Simple and way faster fix, then a new a part/ and splicing
@fordbossme
Only my driver seat is having an issue. Thr passenger seat works fine. You wouldn't suspect this right? Would you suspect the connector under the seat at that point?. Sounds like just replacing that connector is what people do.
Yes same principles apply
Hey Ford boss! Thanks for the video. My 2016 Explorer driver side is the only seat that the heated function doesn’t work on. The car says it’s on the seat itself doesn’t heat up. Could it be the same problem or could something just maybe not be plugged in?
Happy new year
My Drivers seat 2017 explorer xlt. No heat on drivers seat yet passenger seat functions fine
My logic is if one functions yet not the other then it should not be a fuse or module problem. Current serve both and both should not function.
Likely the elimate ( heat pad ) drivers side needs replacement
Am i wrong to assume that?
Very often it's as simple as a loose pin fit that causes excess heat when in operation. I've had good luck cutting the wire inside the fuse box, add a wire to run outside the fuse box, cut the wire from the male connector, and make your own spade single wire connector.
You have to remember I can't do stuff like that because of liability reasons and because of who I work for so you might be able to do that but you always have to think in the back of your mind I bet you this guy can't do that because of how his hands are tied
@@FordBossMe Whole nother ballgame working at dealership vs indy shop. At dealerships it has to be by the book unless it's an approved service bulletin fix. My comment was aimed at others, cause you even mentioned power it up differently in your vid but then said no. I've worked for a Ford dealer and you HAVE to follow policy PERIOD...I was not trying to slight you or be critical.
I would love to learn more. This exact scenario has happened to my 2016 Ford Explorer and now have been without my heated/cooled seats for a year now. Is there a cheap work around to make them work again? If so could you break it down further? Thanks.
Do you mean similar to this? ruclips.net/video/8b9CvUMcNQo/видео.html
@@kennethmcdaniel7866 Is it the terminal on the plug on the bottom of the fuse box that is smoked or is just not working ?
Hey man, I've been threw this issue a few times, usually I get the connector pigtail & the 1 section of the Fuse panel it can be changed/ purchased separately from the whole box. Still overpriced though, I think continuous use of the heated seats causes this, I'm in Northern Canada and people usually don't turn off the heated seats in the winter. If the electronics were more robust/ designed better they'd probably last longer and work fine but do agree Ford seems to cheap out on stuff like this.
Yeah unfortunately through the Ford parts catalog it did not have a breakdown of different options to order so our parts department said that it would have to be ordered as a whole unit
I'm wondering if the aftermarket warranty actually covers that. If it's vague, I wonder if they'll deny the claim, or if they'll stretch their way into it if they know you're envolved. I'm thinking you might be well known and they don't want bad "press", so to speak. I'll be tuning in.
We found out they still had some Ford warranty
Thank you.
My passenger seat heater works. Drivers side does not. What should I be looking for? Should i be looking at the cable that runs from the module to that specific seat?
Yes
Or the heating element or device itself
I've herd the plug under the seat that controls both seats can burn out and the connector has to be replaced
Yep that is true that does happen a lot especially in the F-150s
Those terminator pins on the wires are simply too small a gauge for the current. Either that or the fitment of the blade to receptacle doesn't have enough surface area to carry the current. Its another engineering boondoggle using hardware that isn't capable of doing the job.
Being 6 years old and likely not a warranty item, plus the connector is easy to access right there at the fuse box, I get a new fuse box or replace that terminator inside the fuse box if available and then I would replace the plastic connector on the wire loom only. Meaning, disassemble all of the wires/pins from the existing connector housing, repair the one violet terminator and then assemble all of the wires into a new connector. Its the least invasive method, cheapest method and it repairs what is needed. Installing a complete wire loom is of course the best and cleanest method but I don't put a lot of value in the cost and the fact that there is a lot of invasive work that could be avoided. Tearing into the interior of this vehicle would likely cause a lot of plastic damage that can't be avoided so the collateral damages will have a long list and no one really wants that happening.
Those terminals inside the connector can be released by a tiny "ear" that retains them. I'd confirm pin fitment once complete to be sure no over heating will occur.
I agree with Garth Clark; over current for that pin size and or pin retention/fitment is what burned that contact.
Our problem on ours is it’s not blowing cold, it’s warm. The A/C isn’t super cold either, they related?
If it's not blowing cold more than likely it's the motors themselves under the seat the Thermal electric device need to be replaced or it's a connection problem you're going to have to go through it and do some research and start taking stuff apart
@@FordBossMe also realized the passenger side doesn’t blow it all (can’t hear it anyway). Blue lights light up for both. Hope warranty I bought covers it…
If you don’t mind I have a 2010 Ford Escape with abs light brake light traction control and the wrench light on. It started out with showing the left speed sensor then went to the right back and left rear and the a battery out of range code. Fuses are good check the ground and sensors show good. All lights are on as soon as I start the car. Any thoughts wound be appreciated
If it's not a hybrid and it's a regular Escape you probably are going to have to put a battery in it and reset all the codes and if it has a battery monitor sensor you're going to have to reset that as well
Many thanks I never thought not enough voltage as the car starts fine.
i always tried to conserve amperage. I E not the highest settings on blower heated sears etc.
I have this same issue with my driver side 2016 Ford Explorer Sport. Not worth the repair.
The smoke done got let out of it.
Hi I am new to your channel, I own a Ford Explorer 2017 Sport, and the seats ac and heat are no working, the Ford dealership hold the car for 3 weeks, they claim that did change the seats modulo, but it did not work, they suggested to call an engineer from the main ford corporation.
on you humble opinion what would recommend to be the next thing to check.
sorry if I type to much, and I thank you for your opinion if you do chare with me.
Check all the basic fuses and connections and sometimes it's not the actual seat module sometimes it's the control head that controls the regular ACS as well it's called the front control interface module that tells the seats to turn on
With a 2015 mkz hybrid, the front heated seats and side heat for the mirrors stopped working. But everything else works with them. Would this be the same issue or could it be something else, too? The infotainment screen says it is on and no codes are thrown. The rear heated seats still work. Would you mind telling me what order to check fuses and modules etc?
Honestly I couldn't possibly tell you that all that over a text message it would just take way too long to walk you through that and to send wiring diagrams and everything I would have to be at home and I'm on vacation right now so you're asking me to do something I'm not even able to do currently at this moment
Start with resetting the BMS which is the battery monitor sensor and see if the stuff comes back online I have videos in the library or you can go back to the main search engine on RUclips and type in Ford boss battery monitor reset
Connectors insufficient for the seats. After working years in the military and seeing the connectors used in armored vehicles they make automotive connectors appear cheap and they are in comparison, in fact there is no comparison.
Most of us don’t have pentagon level budgets when buying cars, so manufacturers set specs to meet price targets. We also hopefully don’t need our vehicles to function after running over an IED
@@kevinpoehlmann5157 glad you understand
I have a 2019 ford explorer with heated and cooled front seats. driver side works but passenger seat does not so what are your thoughts
Go through my videos and start looking at the diagnostic process that it takes to go through everything I can't answer your question just by saying what are your thoughts I've dumped lots of time and energy into making these videos for people to learn I'm not just going to answer one little question here in the comments section when there's tons of information for you to go over and learn from
I had a 2018 F550 the blower motor didn't work so i was checking for power and it had so I was trying to remove the harness and.it.was hard.to remove it so I got it out and it was melted plastic I replaced the Blower motor and Pig tail
Is it time to back to points-n-condensers carbureted dinosaurs yet? They run. They don't have extravagant extras. Did I mention...
They run?
You think ford’s premium care warranty would cover that?
Yes
NEED TO ASK A QUESTION/ WHAT IS THE BLACK TRIM DRIAN VENT THINGS UNDER THE WIPER ARMS ,IT GOES ALL THE WAY FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER UNDER THE WINDSHIELD CAN YOU HELP ME THANK YOU
It's called the cowl Grill
@@FordBossMe THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR
Any idea why my seats blow cool air when I turn on the heat? '12 F150 FX4 3.5 Eco
Yeah probably because your pads or your device is bad you got to diagnose it look into it
hey man i got a 2022 mustang with the 10A, the thing whines super loud when at running temp, ford claims its "normal" and "within spec" and the whine is coming from the pump in the trans, do you think replacing the gears on the pump would reduce/get rid of the whine?
It may but it is normal
@@FordBossMe thanks for the response brother, while part of me just wants to say screw it, if ford says it's not harming anything(other than my mental state LOL) then who cares, but when im in traffic/drive through or got anything next to me, it does get embarrassing because it's so audible. do you think it's becoming a big enough complaint that ford will put out a fix for it under warranty? or would it really need to be causing harm/damage for that to happen?
Well I suppose if it’s gonna have a thermal event like that it’s best to have it at the connector 🤔🤔🤔
Is the aftermarket warranty going to cover the repair?
Actually we found out that he still has active for contract on the vehicle so we ran it through Ford and we're waiting to hear back from them
wow. hope that doesn't happen to me. Did something get wet?
No
Is it possible to keep this from burning up?
Put a smaller fuse in line
Here i was complaining about not getting heated/cooled later seats in my Mach 1. Whew
Can i cut that wire in the hood and install a 30amp inline fuse and connect directly to the battery? If anyone has done this can you share a photo or instructions.. thank you
You can do that but that means that module is going to have power all the time you're going to have to find a way to turn it on and turn it off or you're going to have to go to an ignition Source that's power only when the keys on
I have a 2016 explorer platinum.. burnt exactly where you said.. can i connect the inline amp to the red wire feeding the entire fuse box? is that ignition source?@@FordBossMe
I wonder if water got inside plug and short out pin?
I mean it's possible but I doubt it a lot of these heated seats do this
@@FordBossMe - another big terminal near the “hot one” did look a little bit green in your thumbnail pic - water pooling? Did you replace that PDB to be able to see if water got in it?
@@dennislyon5412 I mean the video does spell out the whole entire story and would answer your question if you watched the video all the way through I'm not sure if you did but if you go back and watch it all the way through your question is answered in the video
@@FordBossMe are you saying the heated seat drawed more AMPS than the circuit is designed for?
The heated n cooled seats on my 21 explorer st work fine but they creak every time I move around in the seat. So annoying.
That's because it's plastic on the bottom of the seats that snap onto the metal components and it's a very loose setup
@@FordBossMe so how do we fix it? Just let the dealership deal with it?
more cheap garbage.....too small guage wire and terminals for the current load traveling through it. Every year the wiring and electrical connectors get cheaper and cheaper.
It's 14 gauge wire man it's not too small
GREAT.... I use my Heated/Cooled Seats EVERY DAY on my Brand NEW 2022 F-150. Wonderful thing to look forward to??? I would have thought that FORD Would have "FIXED" this Issue By NOW??? Seems Like a BAD DESIGNto me. And..... It has a "30" AMP FUSE. That is 220 VAC Household Dryer Current Amperage!!! Need's Heavier Duty "S T U F F!!! Just an Observation on My Part 🤷♂
We’re the fuse
It's right above where that burned wire is
Ford and their heated seat u would think they would have learned by now.
My bet it’s in the seats it’s shorted when sat on my uneducated guess
I mean it could be but I highly doubt that
@@FordBossMe it’s crazy how bad that was melted
Thats not 20 hrs of labor lol
You don't choose that pal, stay In your lane
Lol
If I say it...again.... Das boot
@@FordBossMe oh i know what iam talking bout , lol trust me . Good video but we both know not 20 hrs. N we know how much that hatness cost not 800 lol
I really think we have turned into pussies. No heated seats or cooled seats in my 84 Thunderbird, But they are the most comfortable seats ever made. Everyone who has ever sat in my car wants to know why car companies don't make seats like this. I say they think they do.