If you don't own a handy little torch like that a Bic Camp Lighter works just fine. The long nose of that kind of lighter makes it easy to get in close where you need the heat to melt the paracord. have you ever tried dishing the A plates in the vertical axis?
Ells, perhaps you can explain the different lamellar plates? I see you with D plates here, and some A plates laying there on the table by your right hand, but where are B, C, and E-Z? Is there an alphabet chart somewhere of all the different plates?
Im making armor myself using D plates, I just attached my rows differently to allow more movement. I stitched them next to each other instead of on top of one another.
Do you know if D plates would be historically accurate for Eastern steppe armor (Avar, Magyar, Cipchak...), or are they rather unique to Viking and Rus style?
Possibility is there. I looked at steppe armor once. There were plates long and thin on some illustrations, some were squarish. There seemed to be less uniformity in a single kit. I think it might be better to mix the two plates types actually. Use my A-plates for a majority of the body, but make the rounded-corner edges hidden on the underside. Then use the D-plates for the paldrons and tight bends. I think a lot of the look will come from your choice of cloth, trim and helmet. This armor looks great, I think the D plates could make something like this pretty well. assets.isu.pub/document-structure/191111153255-029a7504adefbe514484b1d50d81cf9e/v1/2f68ed49f23a912100c4d880606c2b86.jpg
Do you by any chance remember the gauge of steel these D plates were made from, and also the length and width of each plate? TY for the video and any info Ells, well done.
If you're asking about the overlap, for armor purposes you would want the overlap inline with direction of attack. So a footman would want the overlap to basically be pointed down, so there was less to catch an edge and turn it into your body or tear open your armor. A horseman would want the opposite because a man on the ground would be stabbing upwards. Aesthetically, having everything cascade the same direction is going to look more pleasant to the eye, for costume or rattan fighting it doesn't really matter, for HEMA or Battle of the Nations, probably better to cascade down.
inspirational
If you don't own a handy little torch like that a Bic Camp Lighter works just fine. The long nose of that kind of lighter makes it easy to get in close where you need the heat to melt the paracord. have you ever tried dishing the A plates in the vertical axis?
Ells, perhaps you can explain the different lamellar plates? I see you with D plates here, and some A plates laying there on the table by your right hand, but where are B, C, and E-Z? Is there an alphabet chart somewhere of all the different plates?
Im making armor myself using D plates, I just attached my rows differently to allow more movement. I stitched them next to each other instead of on top of one another.
1Faith1Fate if they’re on top of each other, a little more protection.
...so what you're saying is that i could make my own lamellar armor...fuck me sideways
Do you know if D plates would be historically accurate for Eastern steppe armor (Avar, Magyar, Cipchak...), or are they rather unique to Viking and Rus style?
Possibility is there. I looked at steppe armor once. There were plates long and thin on some illustrations, some were squarish. There seemed to be less uniformity in a single kit. I think it might be better to mix the two plates types actually. Use my A-plates for a majority of the body, but make the rounded-corner edges hidden on the underside. Then use the D-plates for the paldrons and tight bends. I think a lot of the look will come from your choice of cloth, trim and helmet. This armor looks great, I think the D plates could make something like this pretty well. assets.isu.pub/document-structure/191111153255-029a7504adefbe514484b1d50d81cf9e/v1/2f68ed49f23a912100c4d880606c2b86.jpg
@@EllsFjorde Thanky you for your opinion'
Your voice reminds me of Ben Browder, of Farscape & the later series of Stargate SG1...
Do you by any chance remember the gauge of steel these D plates were made from, and also the length and width of each plate? TY for the video and any info Ells, well done.
The d stiffens just fine
Does it matter if you cascade the rows or alternate ?
If you're asking about the overlap, for armor purposes you would want the overlap inline with direction of attack. So a footman would want the overlap to basically be pointed down, so there was less to catch an edge and turn it into your body or tear open your armor. A horseman would want the opposite because a man on the ground would be stabbing upwards.
Aesthetically, having everything cascade the same direction is going to look more pleasant to the eye, for costume or rattan fighting it doesn't really matter, for HEMA or Battle of the Nations, probably better to cascade down.
what is the length and width of the lamellas?
A plate = 2.75 x 1.37 x 0.063 inches
D plate = 2.75 x 0.875 x 0.063 inches
They can be found here. www.ellsfjordtrading.com/product-category/lamellar
Ells Fjord thanks for the link :)