I have a similar setup to yours. Mine is a 24 volt, 3000 w, All In One, branded differently, but I expect, was made by the same company, since the connections and the cabinet are so similar. If we do have similar systems, I suggest that you save the Male end of that power strip cord because you can wire it to the 120 VOLT AC INPUT terminals. That will give you the ability to charge your batteries with grid power, if you have no sun, or with a generator, if you have no sun or no grid power. Just plug it into an extension cord from the wall or a generator (could even be your neighbor's generator, if he's not looking) I actually recommend that you just go ahead and wire it up now so that it's there if you need it.
Not a dumb question, I'm still learning everyday in this ever evolving DIY search for, at least SOME, solar independence. Now to answer your question. These All-In- One units have an inverter to give you the household current you need to run your appliances, a solar charge controller that will let your solar panels safely charge your batteries OR run your inverter when the sun is out and an AC charger that is basically like any other battery charger that you've ever used. It charges up the batteries that you, most likely, have chosen to hook up to the All-In-One so you can use it when there is no sun. That part of the unit is labeled AC INPUT or AC IN. Those two terminals just need the male end of an extension cord attached to them. Once you have that, you can plug the whole shebang into the wall and charge up your batteries, if your power is on at your house, or you can plug it into a generator and charge it on days that the sun refuses to give you free power. Doing that keep you from running the generator, maybe when it's dark, and easy for a crook to home in on the sound and steal your generator. Hope that helps. Feel free to ask more if you need to. Peace.@@YouLookinAtMe-Bro
Hi B Zab, so the BMS on the batteries I've used does have over current protection built-in so theoretically that should be enough to be safe, however, just to be extra safe I've installed bolt-on Fuses on each of my builds (on the positive terminals of the batteries). The batteries that I have will output a max of 100 amps so I went with a 125 amp fuse for each. Since it shouldn't hurt anything I figured why not :) . I hope this helps !! -Josh
Hi Nick, yes, you're correct. Adding more (or higher wattage) panels will charge the battery faster. I go back and forth between the 100w panels and a pair of 210w panels. I typically use the the smaller 100w panels simply because they are easier to setup and move around (the 210w panels are pretty large). Thanks for the question!
Quick question: if you disconnect the battery, are all the settings saved? Also, did you ultimately install a breaker on the positive from the battery? Thanks!!
Hi Mayben25, yes, the settings of the inverter are saved even if the battery gets disconnected. I actually did end up installing a master breaker that disconnects the positive side of the battery from the inverter. I made a couple of other changes to this setup too (additional fuses, usb outputs, fire resistant backer board etc.). I'm planning to upload an update video showing what I've changed/added. A lot of the upgrades I did came about due to suggestions from comments you guys have left for me. I hope this helps and thanks for the questions! -Josh
Awesome! I’ll be looking for the video when you post. I was curious if I should do the same in adding a breaker. MPP didn’t recommend it so I didn’t but I’m starting to rethink that.
I think that your initial investment would be more, the actual electric production would be a little lower. Your current cost of buying electric from your provider, however, will almost certainly increase over time. So, if you were going to use the solar system for mining, or just powering your home for more than 10 years, I think you will come out ahead.
If you have a power outage for 1 or 2 days, and something like this keeps your freezer and refrigerator running, so you don't have a bunch of food spoil, then it can pay for itself very quickly. There are many scenarios, like those who work from home, where having an off-grid power option will be very valuable. Another good example is someone with specific medical needs. It's really not just about money, it's about being prepared.
Hi agralt7405, I have a few different brand solar panels but the brand that I like the best are the HQST brand. In my opinion, the HQST panels have the best price to performance ratio by a long shot. Here is the link to their site: hqsolarpower.com/products/solar-panels/ I hope this helps !
great build, what could this power? im still trying to learn how much watts and or volts i need to run my AC and tools for workshop. please keep us up to date on future builds and ideas. sub'ed
Hi Bucket, thank you for subscribing, I really appreciate that !! This particular build will power anything up to 1000 watts. The amount of time that a 12.8v / 100ah battery (what I used for this build) can run a 1000w load is ~ one hour (12.8v*100ah = 1280wh), give or take a little, after factoring in the inverter efficiencies etc. AC units are notorious for being power hungry, however, if it is under 1000w at peak then this will run it. I would suggest a much larger battery than 100ah to run any AC unit though as you would likely only be able to run it for an hour or two max with a 12.8v/100ah battery. I'm hoping to post some new videos very soon so stay tuned . I hope this helps! Thanks again !
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a similar setup to yours. Mine is a 24 volt, 3000 w, All In One, branded differently, but I expect, was made by the same company, since the connections and the cabinet are so similar. If we do have similar systems, I suggest that you save the Male end of that power strip cord because you can wire it to the 120 VOLT AC INPUT terminals. That will give you the ability to charge your batteries with grid power, if you have no sun, or with a generator, if you have no sun or no grid power. Just plug it into an extension cord from the wall or a generator (could even be your neighbor's generator, if he's not looking) I actually recommend that you just go ahead and wire it up now so that it's there if you need it.
What do you mean...the AC input terminals?
To the battery, or inverter, or fuse block?
Sorry for the dumb question, I'm a newbie.
Not a dumb question, I'm still learning everyday in this ever evolving DIY search for, at least SOME, solar independence. Now to answer your question. These All-In- One units have an inverter to give you the household current you need to run your appliances, a solar charge controller that will let your solar panels safely charge your batteries OR run your inverter when the sun is out and an AC charger that is basically like any other battery charger that you've ever used. It charges up the batteries that you, most likely, have chosen to hook up to the All-In-One so you can use it when there is no sun. That part of the unit is labeled AC INPUT or AC IN. Those two terminals just need the male end of an extension cord attached to them. Once you have that, you can plug the whole shebang into the wall and charge up your batteries, if your power is on at your house, or you can plug it into a generator and charge it on days that the sun refuses to give you free power. Doing that keep you from running the generator, maybe when it's dark, and easy for a crook to home in on the sound and steal your generator. Hope that helps. Feel free to ask more if you need to. Peace.@@YouLookinAtMe-Bro
Excellent job👍 I have basically the same setup, works for me and what I need it for😊
thanks for the time you put into bringing great content to your viewers.
Thank you ! I'm glad you liked it !
Thank you
Nice.
These are the simplest was to have portable power.. And cheaper then them all in one power generators..
Gorgeous swty 😋❤💥
love simple solar setups like this, great job!!
Thanks! 👍
Do you need a fuse on the positive cable between the battery and the inverter? Or is that built into the unit?
Hi B Zab, so the BMS on the batteries I've used does have over current protection built-in so theoretically that should be enough to be safe, however, just to be extra safe I've installed bolt-on Fuses on each of my builds (on the positive terminals of the batteries). The batteries that I have will output a max of 100 amps so I went with a 125 amp fuse for each. Since it shouldn't hurt anything I figured why not :) . I hope this helps !!
-Josh
battery cable Gauge Size?
Excellent 😀
👍👌♥️🇨🇦, gr8 stuff
Thank you for the beginner-friendly intro. Will you consider increasing the PV panel ? Would that charge the battery faster?
Hi Nick, yes, you're correct. Adding more (or higher wattage) panels will charge the battery faster. I go back and forth between the 100w panels and a pair of 210w panels. I typically use the the smaller 100w panels simply because they are easier to setup and move around (the 210w panels are pretty large). Thanks for the question!
Quick question: if you disconnect the battery, are all the settings saved?
Also, did you ultimately install a breaker on the positive from the battery?
Thanks!!
Hi Mayben25, yes, the settings of the inverter are saved even if the battery gets disconnected. I actually did end up installing a master breaker that disconnects the positive side of the battery from the inverter. I made a couple of other changes to this setup too (additional fuses, usb outputs, fire resistant backer board etc.). I'm planning to upload an update video showing what I've changed/added. A lot of the upgrades I did came about due to suggestions from comments you guys have left for me. I hope this helps and thanks for the questions!
-Josh
Awesome! I’ll be looking for the video when you post. I was curious if I should do the same in adding a breaker. MPP didn’t recommend it so I didn’t but I’m starting to rethink that.
I think that your initial investment would be more, the actual electric production would be a little lower. Your current cost of buying electric from your provider, however, will almost certainly increase over time. So, if you were going to use the solar system for mining, or just powering your home for more than 10 years, I think you will come out ahead.
If you have a power outage for 1 or 2 days, and something like this keeps your freezer and refrigerator running, so you don't have a bunch of food spoil, then it can pay for itself very quickly. There are many scenarios, like those who work from home, where having an off-grid power option will be very valuable. Another good example is someone with specific medical needs. It's really not just about money, it's about being prepared.
hello, what solar panels do you use for this set?
give them their name please. Regards
Hi agralt7405, I have a few different brand solar panels but the brand that I like the best are the HQST brand. In my opinion, the HQST panels have the best price to performance ratio by a long shot. Here is the link to their site: hqsolarpower.com/products/solar-panels/
I hope this helps !
Great video
I'm glad you enjoyed it . Thank you !
👍
great build, what could this power? im still trying to learn how much watts and or volts i need to run my AC and tools for workshop. please keep us up to date on future builds and ideas. sub'ed
Hi Bucket, thank you for subscribing, I really appreciate that !! This particular build will power anything up to 1000 watts. The amount of time that a 12.8v / 100ah battery (what I used for this build) can run a 1000w load is ~ one hour (12.8v*100ah = 1280wh), give or take a little, after factoring in the inverter efficiencies etc. AC units are notorious for being power hungry, however, if it is under 1000w at peak then this will run it. I would suggest a much larger battery than 100ah to run any AC unit though as you would likely only be able to run it for an hour or two max with a 12.8v/100ah battery. I'm hoping to post some new videos very soon so stay tuned . I hope this helps! Thanks again !
Hmmm
T
battery cable Gauge Size?