DRZ400 clutch replacement walkthrough | On Two Wheels
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2025
- At some point of time, every bike's clutch needs to be replaced. And if you know to do it right, it's not a bid deal! Here's how I walked my mate through the process on his DRZ400.
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Greetings from Germany,😂 you're professionals, really funny but helpful! Thanks
Thank you for making these videos mate. Much apreaciated.
Glad you like them! and thank you for the support!!!!
Dilesh, great vid. I was waiting for the hub boss to snap off on the first one, a torque wrench needs to be held at the handle. 1 ft/lb is 1lb at 1 foot away from the ctr of the wrench.
Enjoyed the vid tho
Great point! I was too busy looking at the camera I didn't realize it. When I was looking at the footage later I noticed quite a few things where I thought to myself "that's not good practice".. I guess for us self-taught mechanics, hindsight is 20/20. :)
This was really funny! Great job
Glad you enjoyed it! In hindsight, it was funny, but there was one moment where Tushar's heart skipped a few beats!
I live in the mountains of East Tn and I love my drz400 best 2800$ Ever spent it’s giving my 12k of the best riding around and now during covid I’m riding more than ever gotta have a stress reliever and you can’t get more social distant than in the mountains
haha!! Absolutely agree! It's probably one of the most socially responsible stress reliefs in this day and age!
was the pushrod spacer giving you any trouble? i cant seem to get mine all the way in so the pressure plate can fully engage
Good on ya guys.
Thanks :) always, good to share a lesson so that everyone else doesn't need to pay for it again!
How would one go about removing the clutch basket when they get to that point
The basket has a locked nut in the middle, not hard to take off, just need to pop the bike in gear and keep the wheel from turning. that'll lock the shaft in place till you unscrew it.
In my manual it does not say that the last clutch plate needs to be one slot off. How come?
That is odd indeed! Personally, when I did mine, I didn't do that either (because I didn't have the manual at hand).. and even now looking at how it operates, I don't see a benefit per-se in that one notch off-set. It'll be interesting to see what others do/day too!
@@OnTwoWheels what manual were you using in the video, Clymer or original Suzuki?
you did not show or scattered the important parts i needed to know
And what part were you looking for?
Your played were glazed bad. Thats why its was slipping. Never need to change it before 20,000 miles. Ever. Just fyi. Cleaned mine at 20,000 miles, measured friction plates and were still within new specs.
I think you might be right, I did think there was a bit more meat on those, but my mate had already bought the new bits, so we just put it in.
Obviously WAY over tightened the clutch basket bolts. Puts you in a VERY bad, and possibly expensive, situation. ALWAYS triple check your torque specs per manual!, and on these particular bolts on the DRZ, the torque values are not that tight. And ALWAYS with multiple bolts, criss cross your slow, torque tightening sequence to insure a correct and proper seat/seal.
Remember how easy these bolts were to remove?....I believe those DRZ 400 6 bolts are only tightened to about 7 ft lbs, just snug...."good-n-tight"...and a small dab of blue loctite wouldn't hurt either IMHO. Pay very close attention to finding the correct torque specs on any bike project, and save yourself a world of hurt!
7ft lbs is right. He was over cranking on them for sure