I have been using my m more for dirt roads and off road lately, and less for paved road use. Those military tires have been useless for me, but I wore them as it was even more difficult to find 9.00*16 in Europe than your side of the Atlantic. About 2 + years ago I came across a 10.50*16 tire from the Check company Mitas. They consider it an implement tire, with a 14 ply rating. I drove often onroad at speeds of up to 50mph, no issues. Runs a bit noisier than the mil specs, but they sure shine when offroad. I preety much forgot there is a 4"4 lever. They are true 10.50*16, and they make the stock tranny space out its gears a bit better in my opinion. I do not know if you can get them on your side of the Atlantic though. Nice video friend! Keep the m37 alive.
"Locking Ring/2-Piece" or "3-Piece Wheels" -- Older style multi-piece wheels that mount tubed bias-ply tires. The wheels on most AD Chevy trucks are the locking ring type. Not to be confused with center split 2-piece wheels (see below), They can be serviced by professionals and are still useable if in good condition. Most big truck tire centers and Ag shops will still work with these wheels. "Split Rim wheels" -- These wheels should be avoided. This scan from the 1949 Budd Wheel catalog illustrates the different wheel types. The dangerous 2-piece "split rim" (also know as the "widow maker") is the Firestone Type RH-5. The dominant feature of the RH-5 is the attachment of its halves near the wheel's center line. This connection point has an overlapping raised band around the inside of the wheel. This band will be seen on all types of RH-5 wheels, whether Budd style or traditional drop-center light-truck wheels. These wheels can be hard to identify because you can’t really see how they are made while assembled. It’s easier to identify them by eliminating the other possible wheel types. They are not "Locking Ring," "2-Piece" or "3-Piece Wheels" because they don’t have an easily identifiable ring or rings on one side (lip) of the wheel. They are not singe piece tubeless wheels because they do not have a dropped center (where the tire bead goes to allow you to work it over the rim for installation or removal). RH-5 wheels became popular in the late '40's (with manufacturers...) and were used extensively throughout the '50's and '60's. They were last available from Budd in 1972 and from Kelsey-Hayes in 1976. Due to their design, they have not aged well. www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/
My hay truck has split rims, and my other 2 had split rims, and it got to where no one would mount a tire, or fix a flat. So, I did it myself too. I've never bought a new tire in my life. The hay trucks, I bought the pull-off's from school buses at the bus barn, they had lots of life left in them, and my pickup tires, I buy good used tires from a guy I know that has a mechanic shop and impound yard. Back in the day, I ran re-caps on the farm pickups, only had a couple to throw off the cap, and bought a few for the hay rake. My tricycle front end 60 J.D. tractor too, ran re-caps on it.
@@613kc Split rims are not illegal to own, or run them, here in my area anyway. It's that the tire shop cannot mount tires on split rims if they don't have the proper equipment, legally.
@@dalesmyth7398you wrote "Split rims are not illegal" Yes they are on a Federal level (5degree Goodyear Killed many a person.) The M37 is not a split rim! look it up. It is a rim w/ a split lock ring. ruclips.net/video/ryeGgmcvWHo/видео.html My comments are base on memory. But I've have been running 6.50 x 16 on a locking split Ring for over 40- yrs. 1941 WC12 the predecessor to the M37.
On my W200 im running power king 900 16's on the rear there old as hell, checked on the sides but just dont wear out. I bought a new set a while pack from simple tire they where a little taller then the older powerkings but same tread. The guy I sold the F250 is still running em. My buddy is running those STA's on his old 67wagoneer/68j2000/65 F250 high boy I like em...
Those Unidirectional military tires are something else, imagine what could be have been traversed through during the War era (WW2 Korea Vietnam) if our vehicles had a better tread design. How those Unidirectional tires were chosen for War use is beyond me?.
@@logcabinlooms Yes they were. I watch a lot of old WW2 documentaries on the History channel, and just watching our troops struggling to get those old Deuces, jeeps etc... through those muddy, mucky roads and fields Is heartbreaking, those poor guys had a hell of a time.
The reason they chose them was because you could not determine the direction the vehicle was going by the tread pattern on a road etc. This is good for armies that don't want the enemy to know where they are heading
The NDT tires are pretty unsafe on the pavement when it's damp. Super Lugs ride really smooth on the pavement, I had the Power Kings and they were similar. I have 4.89 gears so I haven't bought the XZL Michelins, we are swapping a 318 and a better tranny into my 52' right now, got disks up front and power steering now. The Michelins are expensive but tall so if you haven't swapped gears, get those. Vintage Power Wagons sells the other tires that are best for them, like the Super Lugs. They also make non split rims for the original size if you want to go that route.
Yep, I do my own. You can still find some shops that will do them, but you need to know what your doing. Some will refuse, the thought of split rims terrifies them.
@@logcabinlooms These are not split rim; that have been outlaw for years. But split lock ring rims. Most truck shop will change them has been my experience. Had 2 fixed last yr; $50 ea included new tubes. Thx for the vids! 1941 WC12 1/2 ton.
When airing up repaired tire: #1 remove vale guts. In case rim does not seat correctly. #2 Use 20 ft extension hose w/ locking chuck #3 wrap tire w/ chain #4 Air up to 130% of normal psi for 20 minutes. #5 Remove and mount split lock ring rims (from Vehicle) @ 5 psi. Stay Safe
It's a grey, 64 Chevy 3/4 ton. I still have it, but need to find some suspension parts for it. They use coil springs for the rear axle, and the swingarms that stabilize the rear axle are in tough shape. They have been patched once, but I don't trust it with a heavy load so I am looking for replacements. The problem is they didn't use that design for long.
That M37 is one cool workhorse of a Truck.
I have been using my m more for dirt roads and off road lately, and less for paved road use. Those military tires have been useless for me, but I wore them as it was even more difficult to find 9.00*16 in Europe than your side of the Atlantic. About 2 + years ago I came across a 10.50*16 tire from the Check company Mitas. They consider it an implement tire, with a 14 ply rating. I drove often onroad at speeds of up to 50mph, no issues. Runs a bit noisier than the mil specs, but they sure shine when offroad. I preety much forgot there is a 4"4 lever. They are true 10.50*16, and they make the stock tranny space out its gears a bit better in my opinion. I do not know if you can get them on your side of the Atlantic though. Nice video friend! Keep the m37 alive.
Thank you for sharing it brought me back in time
Those MIL tread pattern tires reminded me of a set of MIL tread boots I had. They were a nightmare too. I guess all they were made for was mud.
I call them Good-for-a-year
Very interesting, informative too
We had a Dodge ran PowerKing super traction...what a tire
"Locking Ring/2-Piece" or "3-Piece Wheels" --
Older style multi-piece wheels that mount tubed bias-ply tires. The wheels on most AD Chevy trucks are the locking ring type. Not to be confused with center split 2-piece wheels (see below), They can be serviced by professionals and are still useable if in good condition. Most big truck tire centers and Ag shops will still work with these wheels.
"Split Rim wheels" --
These wheels should be avoided. This scan from the 1949 Budd Wheel catalog illustrates the different wheel types. The dangerous 2-piece "split rim" (also know as the "widow maker") is the Firestone Type RH-5. The dominant feature of the RH-5 is the attachment of its halves near the wheel's center line. This connection point has an overlapping raised band around the inside of the wheel. This band will be seen on all types of RH-5 wheels, whether Budd style or traditional drop-center light-truck wheels. These wheels can be hard to identify because you can’t really see how they are made while assembled. It’s easier to identify them by eliminating the other possible wheel types. They are not "Locking Ring," "2-Piece" or "3-Piece Wheels" because they don’t have an easily identifiable ring or rings on one side (lip) of the wheel. They are not singe piece tubeless wheels because they do not have a dropped center (where the tire bead goes to allow you to work it over the rim for installation or removal). RH-5 wheels became popular in the late '40's (with manufacturers...) and were used extensively throughout the '50's and '60's. They were last available from Budd in 1972 and from Kelsey-Hayes in 1976. Due to their design, they have not aged well.
www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/
My hay truck has split rims, and my other 2 had split rims, and it got to where no one would mount a tire, or fix a flat. So, I did it myself too. I've never bought a new tire in my life. The hay trucks, I bought the pull-off's from school buses at the bus barn, they had lots of life left in them, and my pickup tires, I buy good used tires from a guy I know that has a mechanic shop and impound yard. Back in the day, I ran re-caps on the farm pickups, only had a couple to throw off the cap, and bought a few for the hay rake. My tricycle front end 60 J.D. tractor too, ran re-caps on it.
These are not split rim; that have been outlaw for years. But split lock ring rims.
@@613kc Split rims are not illegal to own, or run them, here in my area anyway. It's that the tire shop cannot mount tires on split rims if they don't have the proper equipment, legally.
@@dalesmyth7398you wrote "Split rims are not illegal" Yes they are on a Federal level (5degree Goodyear Killed many a person.) The M37 is not a split rim! look it up. It is a rim w/ a split lock ring. ruclips.net/video/ryeGgmcvWHo/видео.html
My comments are base on memory. But I've have been running 6.50 x 16 on a locking split Ring for over 40- yrs. 1941 WC12 the predecessor to the M37.
As I know the difficulty getting these I bet you have a spare set put aside in a cool dark spot.
You are the man......
On my W200 im running power king 900 16's on the rear there old as hell, checked on the sides but just dont wear out. I bought a new set a while pack from simple tire they where a little taller then the older powerkings but same tread. The guy I sold the F250 is still running em. My buddy is running those STA's on his old 67wagoneer/68j2000/65 F250 high boy I like em...
Those Unidirectional military tires are something else, imagine what could be have been traversed through during the War era (WW2 Korea Vietnam) if our vehicles had a better tread design. How those Unidirectional tires were chosen for War use is beyond me?.
I do suspect they have a long wear life, but they are marginal at best.
@@logcabinlooms Yes they were. I watch a lot of old WW2 documentaries on the History channel, and just watching our troops struggling to get those old Deuces, jeeps etc... through those muddy, mucky roads and fields Is heartbreaking, those poor guys had a hell of a time.
@@logcabinlooms If not loaded. Air them down to about 12 psi; they really grip. (If your stuck)
The reason they chose them was because you could not determine the direction the vehicle was going by the tread pattern on a road etc. This is good for armies that don't want the enemy to know where they are heading
The NDT tires are pretty unsafe on the pavement when it's damp. Super Lugs ride really smooth on the pavement, I had the Power Kings and they were similar. I have 4.89 gears so I haven't bought the XZL Michelins, we are swapping a 318 and a better tranny into my 52' right now, got disks up front and power steering now. The Michelins are expensive but tall so if you haven't swapped gears, get those. Vintage Power Wagons sells the other tires that are best for them, like the Super Lugs. They also make non split rims for the original size if you want to go that route.
there is a dealer in virgina that sells 900-16 36 in 8 ply along with tubes and flaps if you need them very nice tires i got 5 sets from him
I love my STAs (Specialty Tires of American), 100% Made in USA, long lasting, great tread!
I bet you mount them yourself, nobody I know will work with split rims. I would prefer split rims to work with, just can’t get them anymore.
Yep, I do my own. You can still find some shops that will do them, but you need to know what your doing. Some will refuse, the thought of split rims terrifies them.
@@logcabinlooms These are not split rim; that have been outlaw for years. But split lock ring rims. Most truck shop will change them has been my experience. Had 2 fixed last yr; $50 ea included new tubes. Thx for the vids! 1941 WC12 1/2 ton.
When airing up repaired tire:
#1 remove vale guts. In case rim does not seat correctly.
#2 Use 20 ft extension hose w/ locking chuck
#3 wrap tire w/ chain
#4 Air up to 130% of normal psi for 20 minutes.
#5 Remove and mount split lock ring rims (from Vehicle) @ 5 psi.
Stay Safe
Algorithm comment. Greetings from N Idaho.
Do you still have that cream color 70 ish chevy pickup. I have not seen it in vids for a long time.
I probably should not ask if you still have it!!!
It's a grey, 64 Chevy 3/4 ton. I still have it, but need to find some suspension parts for it. They use coil springs for the rear axle, and the swingarms that stabilize the rear axle are in tough shape. They have been patched once, but I don't trust it with a heavy load so I am looking for replacements. The problem is they didn't use that design for long.
Super Swamper TSL 34x9x16
that would Ruin the truck.
Have looked at government auctions? I've seen older type tires go cheap.