And the entire purpose of that chamber that you made out of the square tube is to mix the fuel and forced air and build up pressure to go through the holes in the burner face. You should have a bent perforated metal plate in there to facilitate the air fuel mixture. These things just don't work with Venturi burners. The entire point of a ribbon burner is to use less gas when forging specifically forged welding but forging in general you're going to use more with this. I really like the idea of using the fire brick for the burner face but the reason why you use castable refractory to make those is because the soft fire bricks are consumable and you want your burner to be much more durable than that firebrick ever can be. You'll be building a new one every six months or so maybe less depending on how much you use it may be more. But ultimately you've made a consumable ribbon burner a part that should be very durable and not consumable.
Hi, I'm in the process of designing a ribbon burner forge and I really like your idea to drill holes into a firebrick instead of casting the burner. Though, as pointed out somewhere else in the comment, the soft brick might have limited life. I'm wondering if the life of the brick can be improved by coating it with the "rigidizer" used for the kaowool. You may already know this, however the rigidizer is a liquid solution that when sprayed and dried out leaves behind a layer of silica, suitable for high temp applications. It is used to keep the dangerous fibers of the kaowool together when exposed to high speed gas, like in a venturi propane forge. It basically works as a liner. Just thinking loud.. Maybe a coat of rigidizer once in a while may prolongue the life of the burner.
For this version it was intended for use without forced air. Reasons of noise and low fuel consumption mainly. I think you are right be right about the orifice size though, or maybe there need to be more of them :)
If you have the burner tube coming into the side of the 'box' rather than the top [ie at 90* to the burner block 'tubes' ] , a baffle is not needed at all. Looks pretty even flames in 'free air' - all depends how it performs in the forge.
Looks air starved to me. Watched a bunch of videos on these, learned the air inlet pipe needs to be equal in cross sectional area to the total of the flame outlet tubes, at least on forced air. Most guys use 1 1/2” or 2” pipe for the air inlet.
Trying to keep fuel usage to a minimum is the main reason for a single burner, I may need to rethink the volume of the forge as it on the larger size for the current setup.
There is no diffuser in this one. There is conflicting information about this, some say it is necessary, others not. When I make another I may put one in to see for myself :)
@@vinmuller there's exactly zero point in putting a diffuser in this burner unless you're going to make it into a forced air burner. Venturi burners and ribbon burners are incompatible.
The holes in the brick were done with a masonry bit. The larger hole for the pipe was done with a boring head, which is adjustable. This is the one www.warco.co.uk/milling-boring-tools/226-off-set-boring-head.html Thanks for the question :)
Very cool. I been looking at making one my self but longer. I like the approach. What did you use for glue? Most of the ones I have seen use a forced air system. This is the first i seen as a venturini.
They work well once you get the hole number and spacing sorted out for your particular burner. Takes patience to set up and tune in but once it is there, you can control the flame from tick over to flat out by just altering the gas needle valve [rather than gas and air control adjustments on a forced air system] The big benefit is that they are so much quieter !
It has been fired quite a few times now, but it is cracking. I am happy that the size and number of holes work OK, but when it needs remaking I will try a slightly heavier brick, or at least a higher rated one, like a type 26, or type 30 so it withstands the heat better, thanks
@@vinmuller Even the higher rated bricks are short lived. You know the number and size of hole that works for your burner [assuming it performs well in your forge] so I would suggest using castable and straws / crayons or even better, steel rods, and casting a more permanent version which can then be hot faced. It is a fiddly job, but the results are worth it. Using a heavier brick will most likely over heat and backburn and still fall degrade fairly quickly. happy burning friend
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And the entire purpose of that chamber that you made out of the square tube is to mix the fuel and forced air and build up pressure to go through the holes in the burner face. You should have a bent perforated metal plate in there to facilitate the air fuel mixture. These things just don't work with Venturi burners. The entire point of a ribbon burner is to use less gas when forging specifically forged welding but forging in general you're going to use more with this. I really like the idea of using the fire brick for the burner face but the reason why you use castable refractory to make those is because the soft fire bricks are consumable and you want your burner to be much more durable than that firebrick ever can be. You'll be building a new one every six months or so maybe less depending on how much you use it may be more. But ultimately you've made a consumable ribbon burner a part that should be very durable and not consumable.
Hi, I'm in the process of designing a ribbon burner forge and I really like your idea to drill holes into a firebrick instead of casting the burner. Though, as pointed out somewhere else in the comment, the soft brick might have limited life. I'm wondering if the life of the brick can be improved by coating it with the "rigidizer" used for the kaowool. You may already know this, however the rigidizer is a liquid solution that when sprayed and dried out leaves behind a layer of silica, suitable for high temp applications. It is used to keep the dangerous fibers of the kaowool together when exposed to high speed gas, like in a venturi propane forge. It basically works as a liner. Just thinking loud.. Maybe a coat of rigidizer once in a while may prolongue the life of the burner.
The flame seems pretty weak. You need forced air on a ribbon burner, not relying on Venturi effect because the orifices are too small for that
agree
For this version it was intended for use without forced air. Reasons of noise and low fuel consumption mainly. I think you are right be right about the orifice size though, or maybe there need to be more of them :)
Also should have used a baffle plate under the inlet to break up and distribute the air ,gas mix evenly
Thanks, a good suggestion. I may try that in future
If you have the burner tube coming into the side of the 'box' rather than the top [ie at 90* to the burner block 'tubes' ] , a baffle is not needed at all. Looks pretty even flames in 'free air' - all depends how it performs in the forge.
Looks air starved to me. Watched a bunch of videos on these, learned the air inlet pipe needs to be equal in cross sectional area to the total of the flame outlet tubes, at least on forced air. Most guys use 1 1/2” or 2” pipe for the air inlet.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
I love the tutorial thanks
I like the natural used, just bot a big fan of using only a one inch, or 3/4 inlet for my use
Trying to keep fuel usage to a minimum is the main reason for a single burner, I may need to rethink the volume of the forge as it on the larger size for the current setup.
It looks like it works pretty well, but I didn’t notice a diffuser. Is there one in there?
There is no diffuser in this one. There is conflicting information about this, some say it is necessary, others not. When I make another I may put one in to see for myself :)
@@vinmuller there's exactly zero point in putting a diffuser in this burner unless you're going to make it into a forced air burner. Venturi burners and ribbon burners are incompatible.
A ribbon burner fitted with a venturi... WHAT? That's like putting crude oil in a jet engine. I'm almost in awe of this very odd choice.
Thanks for watching :)
What was that tool you used on your mill to make the hole the right size?
The holes in the brick were done with a masonry bit. The larger hole for the pipe was done with a boring head, which is adjustable. This is the one www.warco.co.uk/milling-boring-tools/226-off-set-boring-head.html Thanks for the question :)
Very cool. I been looking at making one my self but longer. I like the approach. What did you use for glue? Most of the ones I have seen use a forced air system. This is the first i seen as a venturini.
Thanks. Vitcas Fire Cement is what I used, got mine from eBay. Direct from Vitcas it is on sale at the moment shop.vitcas.com/black-fire-cement.html
They work well once you get the hole number and spacing sorted out for your particular burner. Takes patience to set up and tune in but once it is there, you can control the flame from tick over to flat out by just altering the gas needle valve [rather than gas and air control adjustments on a forced air system]
The big benefit is that they are so much quieter !
Hi , an idea of how much Time it last ? I'm sceptical
It has been fired quite a few times now, but it is cracking. I am happy that the size and number of holes work OK, but when it needs remaking I will try a slightly heavier brick, or at least a higher rated one, like a type 26, or type 30 so it withstands the heat better, thanks
@@vinmuller thanks a lot ! Have a nice day dude !
@@vinmuller
Even the higher rated bricks are short lived. You know the number and size of hole that works for your burner [assuming it performs well in your forge] so I would suggest using castable and straws / crayons or even better, steel rods, and casting a more permanent version which can then be hot faced. It is a fiddly job, but the results are worth it. Using a heavier brick will most likely over heat and backburn and still fall degrade fairly quickly.
happy burning friend
Dude nice. I'm going to try and make my next one like this. Not a fan of casting.
Thanks. The cast one looks stronger though :)
@@vinmuller how is yours holding up?
@@MadebyKourmoulis It has some cracks that look quite deep but it has held up for a few heats. The metal frame seems to be holding it together OK
@@vinmuller
Casting and hotfacing is much stronger and more durable- but it is a pain to do
Dude messed up by not putting in the air disturbutor if you will! The bent and wholly piece of steel to mix air and fuel!
He could probably get away with it if he actually did a real ribbon burner which uses for stare. But I agree that diffuser is required.