Amazing quality. very articulate. Good camera framing of your hands and parts. taking is step by step was incredibly well done as a lot of uploaders assume their viewers know a lot to everything about what they're saying; you made it easy for us newbies. Thank you so much!
Hey Mitch. Great video. If you still have a Volvo 240, reach under the dash on the driver's side and yank that blue box out - it's the door dinger! That thing drives me crazy! No way to even hear a full pump with that stupid thing dinging and dinging and dinging. You'll know it's the right one cause when it's dinging and you grab it and squeeze it, the sound will change. Tossing it in the glove box will do nothing to any other component except stop that annoying chime and you can save it for the next guy is he/she wants that thing in place. Otherwise, fantastic video. Doing this now on a '93 245. Take care and thanks again!
I found your channel a few weeks ago and I love your content. I am new the the Volvo world but I picked up a 1993 245 wagon with a 1991 b230ft, 15g turbo and injectors from an 850 Volvo. I’m doing a full build on the car but I don’t know anyone Volvo people to bounce ideas off of and ask questions. If you are interested in help me out with ideas or planning my build I would greatly appreciate it. I’m not sure how to contact you other then comments but if you are interested in helping please let me know. I’m definitely not knew to building cars but the Volvo stuff is new to me so I’d like to talk to someone that knows them well
Thanks for the video I just installed a low mileage fuel pump from an XC90 into my 240's tank and effectively turned the main pump under the car into a gasoline sprinkler 🤣🤣🤣
The plugged tube on your fuel pump connections I believe should goto your charcoal canister, it asorbs gas tank fumes on hot days and feeds them back into the engine to reduce evaporative emissions....
Dropping the float is no big deal -- in fact, retrieving it is the easiest part of the job. Bend a coat hanger straight and put a 1" dia loop in the end. Then bend the loop perpendicular to the coat hanger (horizontal) with a 1/2" offset away from the coat hanger wire. Dip in, carefully position the loop under the float, and lift up slowly. 5 seconds and the float's back in your hands. (Avoid the temptation to use a vacuum to "suck up" the float. All those fumes -- and maybe liquid fuel -- spell disaster when the fumes hit the sparks in the vacuum motor.)
Thanks for sharing. I've got a 84 244 that I've started to have hesitation and stall issues when the tank gets down under 1/4 and I believe it's the pump in the tank that's starting to fail. Great reference material.
you have to then fold your seats down and lift the piece of carpet that lays against the seats when they are upright. pull it towards you and you will find a hinge with about 6 screws in it. remove those screws and it should all come out as one piece
How did you get the ring back in? I used a version of your method to get it out, but it doesn't seem like it works for me to get it back in. Any suggestions?
+CoffeeKatzen If you clean your ring off really well with like a wire wheel and some brake cleaner, and clean the inside of where the ring seats on top of the tank, it should turn into place. I usually am able to gently tap it back into place after everything is clean using a piece of bar or screwdriver and a hammer. Make sure you didn't bend any of the ears on the ring, or it won't spin back in.
Thanks for the reply! I'll take another look tonight, but I found a local shop that will rent me the tool if all else fails. Great video and thanks again!
+Mitch Weiler Hey I really liked your video. I hate to be that guy, but... In the Bentley service manual it specifically mentions that if you don't have the Volvo tool, use a BRASS punch and a mallet to turn the ring. I remember thinking "Why brass?" as I did this job on my own brick in the fading twilight with a craftsman screwdriver and a rubber mallet...It visibly made a spark when I struck it. Kind of a big deal when you're working in, you know, the fuel tank. Anyway, I really did like your video, I just wanted to point out not to use dissimilar metals when working on the sender and ring, use brass or plastic.
FIRE HAZARD??? voltage drop to pump poor grounding methods... SUGGESTION... Rather than ground the pump wire inside the tank and then drilling a self tapping screw with another wire lug, you should have just ran one long wire out with the power wire all the way to a good ground on the chassis somewhere. But on the other hand, I guess the design intention is to have the pump assembly and fuel tank grounded, for electrical safety? I'm not sure of the logic of that though. If the tank and pump body are UNGROUNDED, then any short of a 12volt wire to the metal will not generate any sparks. FOR EXAMPLE in an accident. The power wire inside the tank would have to break insulation and then the ground wire insulation would have to break also (DOUBLE INSULATED power to ground - sounds safer to me).. ANYONE GOT ANY IDEAS ON THIS? The reason I believe ORIGINAL FACTORY DESIGN used a machine threaded lug and locknut because its MORE from vibration or coming loose in an impact or collision as compared to a plastic connector with push on spade terminals as was seen used here. HOWEVER the plastic interlocking plug at the new pump seemed to fit rather deeply and securely into the female socket of the AEM fuel pump so its probably unlikely to come lose and short on one of the internal fuel supply or return tubes (which are grounded in this case...) Not sure, but I like the factory design, and the idea of running a ground wire directly from the fuel pump out to a chassis ground. I THINK THE FUEL SENDER IS GROUNDED on other side of its resistor wire to the fuel sender body, so it wouldn't work if not grounded somehow. I say, in that case, perhaps you need to ground it inside the tank as was done here. that or run a separate ground wire out for the sending unit. I dunno.
![ian - Fit Check (Feat. VonOff1700) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sDGWDBg45Dw/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazing quality. very articulate. Good camera framing of your hands and parts. taking is step by step was incredibly well done as a lot of uploaders assume their viewers know a lot to everything about what they're saying; you made it easy for us newbies.
Thank you so much!
Hey Mitch. Great video. If you still have a Volvo 240, reach under the dash on the driver's side and yank that blue box out - it's the door dinger! That thing drives me crazy! No way to even hear a full pump with that stupid thing dinging and dinging and dinging. You'll know it's the right one cause when it's dinging and you grab it and squeeze it, the sound will change. Tossing it in the glove box will do nothing to any other component except stop that annoying chime and you can save it for the next guy is he/she wants that thing in place. Otherwise, fantastic video. Doing this now on a '93 245. Take care and thanks again!
Really cool video dude. I'm going to upgrade my fuel system on my 245 turbo soon, so this helped a lot! Looks really easy !
Nice work Mitch. This is on my to do list for our 240. A new pump is waiting for me in the garage and I will come back to this during install. Thanks!
Good luck with your install!
Good video! My 245 suddenly died, and looks like its fuel pump so this is a good video for me :)
I found your channel a few weeks ago and I love your content. I am new the the Volvo world but I picked up a 1993 245 wagon with a 1991 b230ft, 15g turbo and injectors from an 850 Volvo. I’m doing a full build on the car but I don’t know anyone Volvo people to bounce ideas off of and ask questions. If you are interested in help me out with ideas or planning my build I would greatly appreciate it. I’m not sure how to contact you other then comments but if you are interested in helping please let me know. I’m definitely not knew to building cars but the Volvo stuff is new to me so I’d like to talk to someone that knows them well
It will look great wit the center of the rims moved in :) got my 850 wheels done and mounted yesterday and it looks great! :)
I can't wait! Debating what color to paint them, haha
I got them black, but thinking about going for some gray/silverish colour instead :)
Very cool video! So why did you decide to delete the pump on the rail instead of the pump in the tank? Im trying to figure out how to do that
Awesome tutorial go9d information.
Thanks for the video I just installed a low mileage fuel pump from an XC90 into my 240's tank and effectively turned the main pump under the car into a gasoline sprinkler 🤣🤣🤣
The plugged tube on your fuel pump connections I believe should goto your charcoal canister, it asorbs gas tank fumes on hot days and feeds them back into the engine to reduce evaporative emissions....
Does that little pump buzz when you apply power to it? I did that to mine and no "buzz buzz".
Dropping the float is no big deal -- in fact, retrieving it is the easiest part of the job.
Bend a coat hanger straight and put a 1" dia loop in the end. Then bend the loop perpendicular to the coat hanger (horizontal) with a 1/2" offset away from the coat hanger wire.
Dip in, carefully position the loop under the float, and lift up slowly. 5 seconds and the float's back in your hands.
(Avoid the temptation to use a vacuum to "suck up" the float. All those fumes -- and maybe liquid fuel -- spell disaster when the fumes hit the sparks in the vacuum motor.)
Thanks for sharing. I've got a 84 244 that I've started to have hesitation and stall issues when the tank gets down under 1/4 and I believe it's the pump in the tank that's starting to fail. Great reference material.
Sounds like a good time to replace the pump, for sure! Good luck with your install!
You think is possible to eliminate the main pump outside with a high performance one inside of the tank?
nice video thumbs up
can you add a link to the pump :P??
I think epoxy would be better for the sealing of the wires to the top of the pump assembly .vs silicone... personally.
I took out the two bolts that hold the rear door down but I still can't take out the carpet/floor?
you have to then fold your seats down and lift the piece of carpet that lays against the seats when they are upright. pull it towards you and you will find a hinge with about 6 screws in it. remove those screws and it should all come out as one piece
How did you get the ring back in? I used a version of your method to get it out, but it doesn't seem like it works for me to get it back in. Any suggestions?
+CoffeeKatzen If you clean your ring off really well with like a wire wheel and some brake cleaner, and clean the inside of where the ring seats on top of the tank, it should turn into place. I usually am able to gently tap it back into place after everything is clean using a piece of bar or screwdriver and a hammer. Make sure you didn't bend any of the ears on the ring, or it won't spin back in.
Thanks for the reply! I'll take another look tonight, but I found a local shop that will rent me the tool if all else fails. Great video and thanks again!
+Mitch Weiler Hey I really liked your video. I hate to be that guy, but... In the Bentley service manual it specifically mentions that if you don't have the Volvo tool, use a BRASS punch and a mallet to turn the ring. I remember thinking "Why brass?" as I did this job on my own brick in the fading twilight with a craftsman screwdriver and a rubber mallet...It visibly made a spark when I struck it. Kind of a big deal when you're working in, you know, the fuel tank. Anyway, I really did like your video, I just wanted to point out not to use dissimilar metals when working on the sender and ring, use brass or plastic.
FIRE HAZARD??? voltage drop to pump poor grounding methods... SUGGESTION... Rather than ground the pump wire inside the tank and then drilling a self tapping screw with another wire lug, you should have just ran one long wire out with the power wire all the way to a good ground on the chassis somewhere. But on the other hand, I guess the design intention is to have the pump assembly and fuel tank grounded, for electrical safety? I'm not sure of the logic of that though. If the tank and pump body are UNGROUNDED, then any short of a 12volt wire to the metal will not generate any sparks.
FOR EXAMPLE in an accident. The power wire inside the tank would have to break insulation and then the ground wire insulation would have to break also (DOUBLE INSULATED power to ground - sounds safer to me).. ANYONE GOT ANY IDEAS ON THIS? The reason I believe ORIGINAL FACTORY DESIGN used a machine threaded lug and locknut because its MORE from vibration or coming loose in an impact or collision as compared to a plastic connector with push on spade terminals as was seen used here.
HOWEVER the plastic interlocking plug at the new pump seemed to fit rather deeply and securely into the female socket of the AEM fuel pump so its probably unlikely to come lose and short on one of the internal fuel supply or return tubes (which are grounded in this case...) Not sure, but I like the factory design, and the idea of running a ground wire directly from the fuel pump out to a chassis ground.
I THINK THE FUEL SENDER IS GROUNDED on other side of its resistor wire to the fuel sender body, so it wouldn't work if not grounded somehow. I say, in that case, perhaps you need to ground it inside the tank as was done here. that or run a separate ground wire out for the sending unit. I dunno.
Are you using spacers with those 850 wheels?
Hey Matt,
Yes I am using spacers. They're 5x108 and 24mm thick
Why not order a stock Volvo pump ?
It's what I had. Plus for a turbo setup, needed a larger pump anyway. Removes the need for the under car pump, as well. Less things to fail.
@@mitchweiler3905 - I see. Thanks 👌