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I know it's been a long time since this video was adequate but is there any chance you still have your wiring layout for the msd that you could share with me?

Nice Mitch. Love to see the reinstall of the cross member. Thx, D Day, Maine \

Hey Mitch. Great video. If you still have a Volvo 240, reach under the dash on the driver's side and yank that blue box out - it's the door dinger! That thing drives me crazy! No way to even hear a full pump with that stupid thing dinging and dinging and dinging. You'll know it's the right one cause when it's dinging and you grab it and squeeze it, the sound will change. Tossing it in the glove box will do nothing to any other component except stop that annoying chime and you can save it for the next guy is he/she wants that thing in place. Otherwise, fantastic video. Doing this now on a '93 245. Take care and thanks again!

I found your channel a few weeks ago and I love your content. I am new the the Volvo world but I picked up a 1993 245 wagon with a 1991 b230ft, 15g turbo and injectors from an 850 Volvo. I’m doing a full build on the car but I don’t know anyone Volvo people to bounce ideas off of and ask questions. If you are interested in help me out with ideas or planning my build I would greatly appreciate it. I’m not sure how to contact you other then comments but if you are interested in helping please let me know. I’m definitely not knew to building cars but the Volvo stuff is new to me so I’d like to talk to someone that knows them well

Awesome tutorial go9d information.

Great video . Can the inline pump be deleted and just use the OEM pump in the tank ?

good work

how did you go without an Idle air control valve while staying on MAF?

Bro what type pump you use

You think is possible to eliminate the main pump outside with a high performance one inside of the tank?

Thanks for the video I just installed a low mileage fuel pump from an XC90 into my 240's tank and effectively turned the main pump under the car into a gasoline sprinkler 🤣🤣🤣

Hi, which holset reference do you recommend for 400whp b230?

Really cool video dude. I'm going to upgrade my fuel system on my 245 turbo soon, so this helped a lot! Looks really easy !

Best way to remove tight fittings on banjo bolt and outlet side is to use an impact driver. Comes off really easily. I learned the hard way! 😳

Awesome turbo sound love it😎💪

2x 240s spotted! Way cooler than a fox

I always get excited to see other modded volvos in pa. Im in Pittsburgh and there arent many here. I know this is an old video, do you still have this car, where are you at in pa?

2 in the rear, 2.5 up front. Makes it sit nice and level on 16-17"s and passes MOT.

So how good is a 242 engine for tuning? Will it be reliable with a decent amount of power

Why not order a stock Volvo pump ?

The size of that Turbo's brutal..looks like something off of a Scania truck or something

Do you know what ujoint size best goes in a 91 240 ?

U need to get the lower relocation kit for your alternator that sucker is right in your face saying hey can u see me now 🧐 it would make it look so much better relocated just saying man

Hey bro we can’t get that 18 mil bolt out of the the filter any ideas how we can remove it thanks 🙏

Where can I get that manifold

Good job I bet you won’t post it on sloppy mechanics and get roasted for 🚽

Good stuff. I didn’t realize the f body radiator was such a clean fit on these cars.

Can’t wait to see it finished! This is very close to what I’d like to build one day. Carbed 6.0 and a th400 or t56 would be so simple and still fun to drive

Would you sale ...

This video was published back in Jul 2014. Could you comment as to whether or not this modification was successful long term, as to the driveability of the car?

Automatic transmission ???

hevoisvoima.com isnt that finnish site ? :D

Do you have any updates with this car?

DUDE!!!! TALK ABOUT THE METH KIT! Never seen a video that rambled so much about other stuff for the first 5 minutes of a 7 minute video... Bummer!

Nice build always love that body mustang maybe next built have lq4 swap Jimmy rite now

I was lookin for a video like this! cool video shots from the turbo..cheers!

Hi. Did you completed your th350 project or just lost interest and sold the project further ?

what size intercooler piping did you use ?

Hey Mitch nice build up I just recently moved my wagon to a new crib were hopefully it will be finished and running full gear out the door.Im running a supra 7mgte on it and there is a video on RUclips check it out.seeYa

FIRE HAZARD??? voltage drop to pump poor grounding methods... SUGGESTION... Rather than ground the pump wire inside the tank and then drilling a self tapping screw with another wire lug, you should have just ran one long wire out with the power wire all the way to a good ground on the chassis somewhere. But on the other hand, I guess the design intention is to have the pump assembly and fuel tank grounded, for electrical safety? I'm not sure of the logic of that though. If the tank and pump body are UNGROUNDED, then any short of a 12volt wire to the metal will not generate any sparks. FOR EXAMPLE in an accident. The power wire inside the tank would have to break insulation and then the ground wire insulation would have to break also (DOUBLE INSULATED power to ground - sounds safer to me).. ANYONE GOT ANY IDEAS ON THIS? The reason I believe ORIGINAL FACTORY DESIGN used a machine threaded lug and locknut because its MORE from vibration or coming loose in an impact or collision as compared to a plastic connector with push on spade terminals as was seen used here. HOWEVER the plastic interlocking plug at the new pump seemed to fit rather deeply and securely into the female socket of the AEM fuel pump so its probably unlikely to come lose and short on one of the internal fuel supply or return tubes (which are grounded in this case...) Not sure, but I like the factory design, and the idea of running a ground wire directly from the fuel pump out to a chassis ground. I THINK THE FUEL SENDER IS GROUNDED on other side of its resistor wire to the fuel sender body, so it wouldn't work if not grounded somehow. I say, in that case, perhaps you need to ground it inside the tank as was done here. that or run a separate ground wire out for the sending unit. I dunno.

The plugged tube on your fuel pump connections I believe should goto your charcoal canister, it asorbs gas tank fumes on hot days and feeds them back into the engine to reduce evaporative emissions....

I think epoxy would be better for the sealing of the wires to the top of the pump assembly .vs silicone... personally.

It would be nice if Chevy guys would quit buying up all of our Fords

Sounds good!

What turbo is that?

Just like a 240 Its always the ground wires. 😂

Hey Mitch, it's looking good. It's this the same mustang you had in 2007/2008?

Hi. First thing. i can understand why the power wire to the coil gives you 12.3v while your battery must be higher with the charger on it. It should be 12.7 and up. the pink power wire from the coil must come from fuse source.each cilinder head must have grond on them behind between fire wall.make sure your dwell is set to 5ms and set 5.mv for current in the tune if the tune can.

Hi. I am not sure what i saw. but your down pipe maybe to close of your fuel line. it heat the line up. and make your car run lean.wrap both.Use aluminum isolator. Prevent the turbo to suck air from the radiator. isolate it with aluminum sheet.gap and step lower your plugs. run 30 gap. Wideband. turbo feed must not run close to heat source for oil cooking prevention. Oil return adapter on the turbo might need to be shaved for bigger opening.Radiator cap must be as high posible.21psi at least. Coolant to lub your water pump bearings. near the oil filter. T a brass and put a 1/8 oil pressure sensor with activated when ol are lower then 30 psi. run that to a small loud buzzer parallel with a big red light. that will help you watch the oil pressure go lower if it is lowering on pressure. Make sure you have mechanical oil pressure gauge in the cabine. Pls, don't run factory specs oil grade. you engine is not factory anymore. Run a 20w-60 diesel oil.If you are in colder city. use 15 or 10w to 60 or 50 oil grades.M3 BMW comes from factory with 10w-60. Find out why. If you can find anti friction oil treatment add it to it. PLs. Don't let no one fool you about oil. And run a miniral oil. not synth. you will see you will never in your life have to change or repair your engine unless you tune it worng. I see you have had many unnesesary mistakes.i like to have you running for years now. LS engines take unforgiven to much abuse.But it have its weak points. wich is the oil starvation. Ow. the oil pickup tube must have two bolts holding it. Ls1 have that issue. keep you oil at max or a little more. not to much. never lower. Make sure you have fuel level monitored. 40% as least. if you loose fuel. engine is done. lean. Ckeck your diff oil to, Depents what is your purpose with the car.Diff oil grade must go up. about cooling. if your radiator fan cools to much the water. your engine will still runs hot.So run a thermostat 160f depends what you do with the car.21 psi cap will raise you boiling point. About the tuning of your engine. If the MS3 still have issues. go back to the OEM ecu with harness. Make sure its vat deleted or do it your self. we are running 9 seconds with stock ecu. Have fun friend. Pls keep your fallowers updated,. don't go for so long. answer others about your volvo. i like to learn too. i have volvo too.

hey what kind of mileage was on the engine? I'd like to start pulling apart mine, 400K so I'm nervous about what I'll find