I have had the Stew-Mac rule for many years and no longer even try to use it. I had the same frustrations as you: holding it in place and marking accurately. I’ll sell you mine cheap so you can have one for each shop ;-)
I’m with you, 100%. I used the rule for my first few nuts, and was not happy with the uneven spacing I was achieving. I’m now using your older caliper method and it’s working well for me. Thanks so much for posting these videos!
I've used the stew-mac ruler many times to create proportional nut slots. It does a good job when used right. Set the 1st and 6th where you want and slide the ruler until you have a good match. I always put tape on the ruler and mark the set of lines I want. I use a fine mechanical pencil and use the slots to mark the intended spots carefully, making sure I'm lined up well for each mark. So far, I've been very happy with it. However, on bass bridges, I use calipers since the ruler isn't big enough. Set the 1st and 4th and mark them and calculate the centerline distances that result in equal spacing between strings.
Isn't that exactly what I did? Did you check your results with a second verification, like I did? And my whole point was- "why do I need a $35 tool when I get better results with the tool I already have?"
This was an eye-opener for me. I hate the ruler and probably will use it for a flexible straight ftom now on. I had to have it along with their shitty digital calipers that need constant resetting, especially the short end that needs to be zeroed every time i want a depth measurement. Your video reminded me how much I prefer DIAL calipers. Thank you
🤣🤣 Very honest with you i wanted to try making Nut so bought this scale and waited 3 nut blanks could not get it right ,,,, will now use the Caliper like you suggested ,,,,, I usually buy pre made nuts but right way to do will be like u suggested 😂😂
Once you get it down you won't use pre-made again. Try practicing with some chunks of wood instead of bone. Lot easier to work with and you might have little chunks of wood sitting around anyways
Awesome great video. If you don't mind I will save this video. What is the Make and Model of your caliper? I would like to see more videos like this. Thank you.
Save away! I've had that caliper for about 25 years. I have 3 others... two carbon fibers and one digital, all from Stew Mac. Honestly, any decent caliper will work fine.
Hey Bryan! I hope all is well out west. So, after this video, I checked the nut spacing on the one I did on my D-18CW with the ruler. It’s terrible!! E and B are way to close together. My question is for a neck that is 1.755, where to I place the additional .060? Outside? Divided in the 5 spaces? Or try to divide it between the 2 edges and 5 spaces?
That depends on your goal. If your goal is to _maximize_ the room on your 1.750" neck, then add the extra room in between the strings. Your E's will sit close to the edge. If your goal is comfort, try adding about .005" between each string. Space them 0.260-0.263" apart (instead of the 0.257" I use on 1 11/16" necks). That'll use the real estate of the neck a little more but the E's will feel really "solid" as a result of having a big more f/board under them. Go to (12:10) and watch that again. The MAIN thing is to get consistent spacing between the edges of the strings.
I have had the Stew-Mac rule for many years and no longer even try to use it. I had the same frustrations as you: holding it in place and marking accurately. I’ll sell you mine cheap so you can have one for each shop ;-)
I appreciate the offer but you can just hang on to it. :)
Wow! A Master Class for free. How lucky are we!?!?
I’m with you, 100%. I used the rule for my first few nuts, and was not happy with the uneven spacing I was achieving. I’m now using your older caliper method and it’s working well for me. Thanks so much for posting these videos!
I'm happy to hear from others with the same experience! Thanks for watching.
I've used the stew-mac ruler many times to create proportional nut slots. It does a good job when used right. Set the 1st and 6th where you want and slide the ruler until you have a good match. I always put tape on the ruler and mark the set of lines I want. I use a fine mechanical pencil and use the slots to mark the intended spots carefully, making sure I'm lined up well for each mark. So far, I've been very happy with it.
However, on bass bridges, I use calipers since the ruler isn't big enough. Set the 1st and 4th and mark them and calculate the centerline distances that result in equal spacing between strings.
Isn't that exactly what I did? Did you check your results with a second verification, like I did? And my whole point was- "why do I need a $35 tool when I get better results with the tool I already have?"
This was an eye-opener for me. I hate the ruler and probably will use it for a flexible straight ftom now on. I had to have it along with their shitty digital calipers that need constant resetting, especially the short end that needs to be zeroed every time i want a depth measurement. Your video reminded me how much I prefer DIAL calipers.
Thank you
I hate zeroing for depth.
I’d use that StewMac tool for getting that pesky itch on my back. I’m not as limber as I once was.
🤣🤣 Very honest with you i wanted to try making Nut so bought this scale and waited 3 nut blanks could not get it right ,,,, will now use the Caliper like you suggested ,,,,, I usually buy pre made nuts but right way to do will be like u suggested 😂😂
Once you get it down you won't use pre-made again. Try practicing with some chunks of wood instead of bone. Lot easier to work with and you might have little chunks of wood sitting around anyways
@@Bryankimsey thanks Bryan will keep trying right now buying premade from our favorite Stewmac
In 1975 I was driving a '67 MGB. All that's left are my blades. Recently got a $40 caliper from HF. It's real good. Good enough anyway.
You had to be a pretty good mechanic to drive an MG. :)
Still have my Wentworth's. There was a BSA Lightning involved also.
Awesome great video. If you don't mind I will save this video. What is the Make and Model of your caliper? I would like to see more videos like this. Thank you.
Save away! I've had that caliper for about 25 years. I have 3 others... two carbon fibers and one digital, all from Stew Mac. Honestly, any decent caliper will work fine.
@@Bryankimsey Thank you. Happy belated Father's Day to you.
Hey Bryan! I hope all is well out west. So, after this video, I checked the nut spacing on the one I did on my D-18CW with the ruler. It’s terrible!! E and B are way to close together. My question is for a neck that is 1.755, where to I place the additional .060? Outside? Divided in the 5 spaces? Or try to divide it between the 2 edges and 5 spaces?
That depends on your goal.
If your goal is to _maximize_ the room on your 1.750" neck, then add the extra room in between the strings. Your E's will sit close to the edge.
If your goal is comfort, try adding about .005" between each string. Space them 0.260-0.263" apart (instead of the 0.257" I use on 1 11/16" necks). That'll use the real estate of the neck a little more but the E's will feel really "solid" as a result of having a big more f/board under them. Go to (12:10) and watch that again.
The MAIN thing is to get consistent spacing between the edges of the strings.
Use the tool that gives you the best results.
I bet Paul Sellers could do a perfect job with a pencil and a 6" scale, and he doesn't work on guitars.
I'm going to do one totally by eye just to see if I can. :)