THANK YOU for posting this.... I was struggling on this with a textured ceiling and this worked so well. This technique helped me tremendously. Appreciate you taking the time to put this out.
I'd like to add, if you're painting with satin or semigloss you'll want to pull it off while the paint is still damp or it could and most likely will peel in spots. Leaving it overnight is a good idea for flat wall paint.
I can speak from experience because I ended up pealing up a ton of the wall paint which created raised portions and uneven wall paint texture. Major hassle to fix.
I have been decorating my house in preparation for Christmas, and I stumbled across your video when looking for ideas/methods to tackle high ceilings and having a polished finish. I tried your method and it works perfectly. So I am writing this comment to thank you for sharing your knowledge. Have a lovely Christmas!
Thanks for the comment. I have updated this video, so if you haven't seen it, I've added a couple of things I think are important. ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html Thanks!
Thank you!!! I just painted and could not get a crisp line between my ceiling and wall... I was gonna just cover it up with crown moulding, but you saved me from having to do that! Im going to use your trick everytime!
Hi Dave, just wanted to say a big thank you for this video. I tried this method today and it gave me the most straight clean lines ive ever achieved. I am based in the UK and have recently started out as a part time painter and decorator. This tip has saved me loads of time and effort (and worry) I'll be using this method from now on. Cheers Jamie
part time hamdyman you mean..No real painter and decorator would paint walls before they paint ceilings for starters..and they deffo wouldnt be taping up walls to get a straight line lol
@@jamiegunn20 Dnt be mad with my post bruh.I'm just stating facts..why would you paint walls before you paint a ceiling? That's just bullshitting around. You always paint ceilings first
Thank you taking the time to prepare the video. I am a little puzzled as to why you paint onto the tape with the colour used on the wall, since this has already been painted , then only to paint on top of that with the ceiling paint. Thanks
Am defo going to try this on my next job as my cut in have been horrible as it always goes in the celling but this looks wonderful , thank you sir 🙏🏿🙏🏿🙏🏿
My pleasure, good luck! If you haven't seen it, I've updated this video which covers some issues you could run across when using tape on the walls. ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
I use that same technique for baseboards and trim. Paint all my trim first. Mask it, lightly feather on the trim finish to seal the edge of the tape, and then do my walls. Saves me DAYS of cutting. Maybe a few touchups here and there, but my lines are razor sharp. Looks like I made my lines with a ruler and pen. Attention to details is what separates the artisans from the shoemakers.
Thank you so much for making this video, I recently followed this when painting our living room and when I removed the tape it looked amazing, so sharp and modern looking! Thanks again 👌👍
Turned out perfect, I couldn’t believe. I did follow the advice of another person here to remove tape when still wet if using satin (me🙋🏻♀️) and it came out just perfect. Thank you for this video.
Awesome stuff dude just bought a house will be doing this ! looks way clean. Do you recommend doing this also on the bottom transition from white base board to colored wall? Like a small gap into the paint caulked ? thanks man
Sorry for the delay, if you go to my site www.askdavethepainter.com and look under the "painting" section, I talk about taping up the base and the vertical trim for the windows and door frames. The idea is the same, but the placement of the tape is a bit different. I will be adding a video section in a day or two. Thanks for the question.
Looks so crisp and fresh. It's like next level stuff :D. I much prefer this way among the other ones. Great job and thanks for sharing your experience. Cheers
Always do this except I use frog tape (and/or) blue tape with a thin layer of caulk. Put on wipe it off....keeps from having to wait for the color of the wall paint to dry before applying the ceiling color, as well as no "bridging " from the dried wall paint.
That process works well, but in most circumstances I don’t use caulk. If you’re interested I have a video on my channel on why I usually don’t use caulk. I am guessing you are a professional and since these videos are more for novices, I think it works better for them. Thanks for the comment!
All those walls look great especially when you’re doing the custom colors and the darker the room it really pops when the Job is finished I noticed the last wall I’m not sure if that was a A shade of black looking online I know the grays been in the last five years or so before that it was costume brown and tan colors now Gray dark gray and shades of black there’s so many great paint jobs online it’s hard to pick
Hello, why do you seal with the wall colour first. Is it so that if there is initial bleed through it is the correct colour, then the subsequent ceiling colour cannot bleed through as it sits on top of the sealed wall colour?? Thanks
Looks good. Two questions: 1) why are you sealing the tape with the wall paint? Why not just paint the ceiling, down to the tape, once you've finished taping? 2) why blue tape? (as opposed to green or yellow?)
So to the first question, I seal the tape with the wall paint so that the ceiling paint will not leak behind the tape; if you just paint the ceiling paint onto the tape without sealing it with the wall paint, especially on a textured wall, the ceiling color may leak behind the tape. For the green or yellow, you could use any of those tapes, but I would recommend using a safe release (low adhesion) tape; the blue tape is a safe release tape. If you are going to use the Frog Tape, I would use the yellow (low adhesion) tape.
hi, does this work if the wall is a silk finish and ceiling a matt finish? because some silk will go onto the ceiling then you need to cover it with matt paint
This worked for me exactly like it was supposed to. I appreciate you sharing your experience with us. I never would’ve thought that I’d be able to get a straight line with a textured wall & ceiling. The only hiccup I had - & this may be due to the humidity in my area, as I live on the Gulf Coast - was when I pulled the tape, the wall paint came with it in some areas. It was easily repaired with a small brush.
Thank for the feedback! There could be a few reasons the paint pulled: if the tape you used wasn’t a super safe release tape, what’s known as a low adhesion tape, that could do it. Medium adhesion tapes are to sticky, especially if you had just recently painted the wall you were taping to. Sometimes people will apply spackle, mud, or new texture and will not prime said areas; if those areas are painted with wall paint, then taped to, that would cause the paint to pull off the wall. Finally, if the wall paint was not completely dry and was then taped to, that could cause the paint to come off. You mentioned it was warm where you are at, one thing to keep in mind is that air flow is more important than warmth for a paint to dry. Setting up a fan and cracking open a couple of windows or doors will really help with the drying process. Thanks!
Dave Martin thanks for your reply. I wondered if maybe my tape was too sticky, but your reply made me realize the problem: the wall had, in fact, been newly textured & it had never been painted before. It was SUCH a job - I felt like it was absorbing that paint like a sponge! But I was so pleased with my very straight ceiling line (thanks to you) & seeing it all finished made it worth all the work. Thanks again.
Thanks for reply Dave. Do you prefer to cut that ceiling line lower because most ceilings in America are textured? Would you still adopt that style for smooth ceilings?The finishing product which you showed looked very nice indeed and i would like that finish also but my lines are not as thick as a finishing product. They are thinner transitions which i am not that fond of. I much prefer the way your transition lines are nice and bold. How can i achieve that bold white transition line please? I have followed your video. Maybe i need thicker white paint?
No, I don't bring the line lower because most American ceilings are textured. I use this method for all ceilings, smooth, textured and for popcorn ceilings. I bring the line down for two main reasons: one is that ceilings undulate (have a tendency to not be truly level and have a slight wavey look to them); and, two, because a corner to corner cut (i.e. a cut where the ceiling meets the walls) rarely looks clean to me. When you look at a corner to corner cut, let's say where the wall meets the ceiling, most paint jobs will have some wall paint on the ceiling in some areas and I don't care for the look of that. I've been painting a long time, and it's still difficult to create a clean line without getting some wall paint on the ceiling, so to solve that problem, I brought the ceiling color down just a bit onto the wall. I can control how straight the line is, so it helps with the undulations as well. I tape down about 1/8 of an inch from the ceiling, so you can try testing (adjusting your line width) in a small area until you find the line width you think is best. As for the "thicker" white paint, try applying another coat of the ceiling paint. Sometimes when you apply just one coat, it won't cover well until you apply another coat. One reason that you may not see the line that well is that the ceiling and wall color are two similar in color making it harder to see the line. Thanks!
great video, thanks for making this. what do you do if you want to paint the walls of a room but not paint the ceiling? How do you get a nice line where the top of the wall meets the ceiling then?
Do it exactly like the video using your existing ceiling color; your just not rolling the ceiling, you are simply cutting in the edge. Once the ceiling color is dry, it should blend in with the rest of the ceiling. Make sure you acclimate the ceiling paint in the room you're painting for at least a day and make sure you mix the ceiling paint really well. The only problem here is if you do not have the existing ceiling color or you do not know what the existing ceiling color is. If you do not know or have the existing ceiling paint, you'll need to find a paint (color and sheen) that matches the ceiling. Do the best you can. Paint the wall color up to the ceiling, but try not to get the wall color on the ceiling itself (just try the best you can). Tape up the ceiling, seal the tape, but again, try not to get any of the wall paint onto the ceiling when you are sealing the tape. Once that is dry, cut in the new ceiling color, but again, try not to get too much, if any, of the new ceiling color on the ceiling in case it's not an exact match. I know it's a little more work, but you are basically doing the same thing as the video without touching the ceiling too much. Doing it this way, if the new ceiling color does not match the old ceiling color exactly you won't be able to tell the difference because you are technically just painting the ceiling color on the wall and not the ceiling. If that doesn't make sense, please let me know. Thanks!
Then you would tape ceiling then seal the edge of tape with clear paintable caulk, that's another alternative to this method, make sure you press or wipe caulk down almost completely you just sealing the edge of tape I like this method better because you paint right after tape + caulk.
@@DaveMartin Your videos are really excellent, so thank you for making this great series of tutorials. It’s been very helpful and enlightening. I also had the same question as the viewer above that you replied to about if you’re not (re)painting the ceiling so thank you for the detailed response. I’m hoping for great results.
Dam I never seen it done that way it looks great and you only are taping one time I always done it different when I was doing the ceiling tape at the top of the wall and when I was doing the walls at the top of the ceiling I did it really straight it come out looking good but that way I’m gonna be doing it that way for now on
Hi Dave I was watching your other Video about taping door frames to cut the wall back in. My question is this. I prefer an oil based Gloss. Would it be possible to follow your steps in that video using oil based gloss over water based?
Yes, you can tape to the oil trim paint when it's dry (I'd let it dry 24 hours before taping to it), then seal the tape with the oil base paint. Unfortunately, you will need to wait another 24 hours for the oil to dry before starting with the wall color.
I’ve always uses tape but I would tape the ceiling to get the wall perfect then tape the wall to get wall perfect I really want to try this way it looks really great when the job is done and saves so much time that blue tape you are using definitely not the blue 3M I buy at home depo
Thanks for posting the video, but I did have a question about painting the white ceiling paint after sealing the tape. It appears as though the white ceiling paint in your video appears to cover up the wall paint rather easily (perhaps due to its lighter color). Do you ever have an issue with the underlying wall paint showing through the white ceiling paint, even after applying two coats of the white? If so, would you just proceed with another coat of the white ceiling paint, or consider a primer at that point? (I was also not sure if this would have anything to do with the different sheens of the paint if it did occur, ceiling paint obviously being flat)
It depends on what color I am covering. In most instances, it should cover in two coats. The two issues that come to mind are: a) did you use some older paint and, if so, was it mixed really well before being used? or b) sometimes less expensive paints (like the Contractor or Economical lines from a certain manufacturer (or brand)) will have fewer solids in them so they will not cover as well. I recommend using the Premium or Super Premium lines. In the video I used Benjamin Moore's Ultra Flat Ceiling paint; it's really flat and is really high in solids, a great choice for ceilings and, as you can see, covers exceptionally well. Since you have already applied two coats, I would just try and apply another coat. If that doesn't work, I would really recommend switching the brand or the line.
I have an old 'popcorn' style textured ceiling and had a miserable time cutting in the lines b/t the walls and ceilings when I painted 10 years ago. Considered crown molding, but never committed to purchasing and installing it! Just recently started painting my home again. I attempted to use your method in my bathroom and as a result, I am very pleased w/ it! I did, however, have some white ceiling paint bleed thru the tape with the wall paint sealed barrier, but not in too many places. Should be an easy touch up. Question: What type of painter's tape do you recommend? Any ideas or suggestions as to why some of the ceiling paint penetrated the barrier? Believe I used 3M blue painter's tape! Awesome method for cutting in paint between a textured ceiling and drywall in order to achieve a straight line!
I use 3M's super safe release tape (used to be blue, now it's purple). The 3M tape you may have used is the "Original" cloth tape. I'm not a fan of that tape as it's known as a medium adhesion tape, I prefer a delicate or low adhesion tape. Are the walls textured? and if so, is it a heavy texture? If that is the case, make sure you apply the tape tightly to the wall, pressing carefully as you apply it to get into the texture voids really well. You also may need to do two coats of the sealing to really make sure it's sealed well. It is rare that with my version, especially on a textured surface, that all of the bleeding will be controlled. Hopefully, you can stop most of it, and any excess can be touched up with an artist's brush. Thanks!
I am curious if the wall is already painted the correct color and was all the way up in the corner why wouldn't you just tape up the wall in the first place and then run your white ceiling color along that edge why put more wall color up in that corner thank you for your information
here's a link to a video on my thoughts on using caulk ruclips.net/video/G2URxlCrQfo/видео.html You can also find the video on my website, www.askdavethepainter.com under "painting the room"
How do you avoid the paint bleeding under the tape? All of the Blue EdgeLock and Frog tape eventually bleeds, especially if you let it dry. How do you avoid the tape not ripping off the existing paint? I peel the tape back over itself as you do to reduce damage and pull a cleaner line, but it still rips paint off, especially on freshly painted walls.
In the video I mention sealing the tape with paint to keep the new color from leaking behind the tape; it is the first color I apply once I have applied the tape. You are right, especially on rough surfaces, Frog Tape and Edge Lock tapes will not usually stop paint bleed. There are two things to think about when you are taping up; first, you must make sure that the paint you are taping to is completely dry. The second, and most important, is to use a super safe release tape, what's known as a low adhesion tape. You run a much lower risk of pulling off the paint below the tape if you use a low adhesion tape. I use Scotch Edge Lock Delicate Surface tape (2080), you could also use the yellow Frog Tape. I never use a medium or high adhesion tape on a painted surface. The second, and most common reason the tape will pull off the paint it is taped to, is that sometimes when you do texture work or you spackle/mud and you don't prime those areas before you final paint the walls, the wall paint will not stick well to the texture or mud/spackle areas and will pull off easily.
@@DaveMartin Thanks for the reply Dave! I usually use the Scotch Edge Lock myself, I like the low adhesion and easy tear lines. However, I have pulled paint off entire walls of beautifully taped Edge Lock tape though, all tapes for that matter. I've considered the purple Delicate Surface tape, and the yellow Frog, but I think you might be right about the primer. I always prime but mostly with all-purpose primer. I've noticed the primer designed specifically for drywall and mud adheres much better, more like a glue, and might help prevent the paint from pulling up in those areas.
@@DaveMartin I just tried some purple delicate tape, came off very nicely, did a great job. Will be using that going forward on freshly primed and painted drywall! Could have been the primer combo as well, will experiment but great results, thanks!
@@WillyDrucker I'm not sure if you've seen it, but I just redid the ceiling cut in video; please let me know what you think. I added a section on things that could go wrong. ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
Confused - Why paint the beige wall color over the tape first if you are just going to go back over the same section with the ceiling white? It seems like an unnecessary step?
By using the beige color first you are sealing the tape; it helps keep the white ceiling paint from leaking behind the tape. On a textured wall especially, if you do not seal the tape with the wall color, the ceiling color will bleed behind the tape.
I use the same method, but placement of the tape is different. I have videos on taping up and sealing the vertical runs and taping and sealing the base runs. ruclips.net/video/H7vu9nBSmm4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/fHd_gNlygOY/видео.html For crown, if there is enough of a lip on the bottom of the crown to tape to, I will tape it up, otherwise I will cut it in by hand. Here is my youtube channel: ruclips.net/channel/UCVbDJ-TdTeTVl2Lx85WyGcQ Thanks!
It should work with any sheen, but watch the following video first, it talks about how things can go wrong; it’s an updated version of the video you watched. ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html I also have a video on the caulking method, I’ll send it along in a minute.
petestreet if you want to try and do it in one day, the first thing you should paint is the wall cut in line with the wall paint first; you want to give it lots of time to dry, so if you do it first, then do other work for at least 4 hours, the paint should be dry enough to tape to. If you feel the paint is drying slow, set up a fan and crack a couple of windows to get good airflow. After the paint is dry (at least 4 hours), use a super safe release tape, what’s called a low adhesion tape to do your taping (I use 3m Scotch’s Edge Lock Delicate Surface tape (it’s light purple and the product # is 2080). Now as I don’t like this method, to finish in one day, follow my video, but instead of sealing the tape with paint, use Clear Caulk and caulk the edge of the tape, then paint your ceiling color. It is imperative that the caulk does not start to dry!!! You apply the caulk, wipe the caulk out with your finger, paint the ceiling color, then remove the tape. I will send a link to a video of why I don’t like this, but I do cover the process. If you use the caulk method, you can do it in a day as long as you paint the area you need to paint to early in the day and use caulk instead of paint to seal the paint. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. I would really recommend watching the following updated version of this video: ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html Thanks!
@@DaveMartin I watched that aswell, thank you so much I had my flat soundproof and it was plastered and paint by a contractor, the ceiling edges were left in miserable state, I watched this and was able to fix my ceiling edges myself thank very much Gob bless you.
FrumpyBoyo I usually will not do this with coving, but it is totally up to you. The best way to approach it is to try it on a small portion and see what you think. Sometimes if the cove is really wide, the extra line makes the whole cove look even wider and it just doesn’t feel or look right. I have a video on taping vertical trim pieces, if you decide not to do the line, I would use that video as a template for how to tape to the cove and create a clean line that way. As for the Frog Tape, I always recommend using a low adhesion tape, so yes, definitely use the yellow one. Thanks, let me know if this all makes sense.
Dave Martin thankyou for your reply Dave, I may have jumped the gun here 10 minutes before your comment I may have started this haha. Fingers crossed it looks ok though...as you said the coving is rather wide! This is my first ever time painting and wish I came across your videos a last week!
Leaving the tape on for days only works with flat paint. Don't try this with any paint that has a sheen. The paint will bridge the tape and when you let it dry then go to pull it, the paint will come with it.
Thanks for the comment. I’m going to disagree with you up to a point. In my experience using this method, which I have been doing for quite a while, I do not have the bridging problem with the paint, no matter the sheen. The thing to keep in mind is that a 100% acrylic paint once completely dry will “break” when you pull the tape. The bridging and the paint pulling off, in my experience, is when a Vinyl Acrylic paint is used, or if the tape is pulled too soon (it needs to be completely dry). With a Vinyl Acrylic paint, you’re correct, it can create a rubbery bond between the wall and the tape and when pulled will stretch the paint and not pull cleanly. The same issue can happen if you pull the tape while the paint is drying; it will not have dried enough and will be rubbery at that time as well. I use 100% Acrylic paints and allow them to dry fully before pulling the tape. I have created a newer version of this video and will do another one discussing your point. Thanks much.
@@DaveMartin awesome thank you so much for your quick reply going to buy one tomorrow. And thank you for the video too! Looking forward to trying your method!
Do you mean that the wall is curved, or that the ceiling seems to go up and down in areas? I'm going to assume the latter. As the ceiling starts to get crooked, take the tape and just try to bring it up or down with the undulation as best you can. The thing you want to try and avoid is making dramatic movements with the tape. So lessen the slope of the tape so there is not an exaggeration of the tape. The tape can go up and down as necessary; in the scheme of things, you just try and do the best you can with what you have. If this doesn't make sense, you can send me an email davepatrickmartin@gmail.com and I will send along a couple of pictures of what I mean. Thanks!
@@DaveMartin hi mate, I'll definitely send u an email explaining what I mean. Basically,i don't really know the answer, but you'll know what i mean when i send u picture.
Tryed this on a a skimmed wall put 2 coats of emulsion on let it dry then taped with blue tape and it pulled all the paint of at the top where the tape was am I doing something wrong or do you think I should of used yellow frog tape any help please
When you say you skimmed the wall, can I assume you had put drywall mud (joint compound) on the wall? If that's the case, did you apply any kind of primer before applying the 2 coats, as that would be an important step? Primer acts as a binder for the final coat(s) of paint. Also, it's important that the blue tape is not the 3M "Original," it needs to be the super safe release (a low adhesion tape).
@@DaveMartin thanks for the reply mate yeah it's just a finishing plaster I used white emulsion to prime the wall but I didn't water it down my first time doing it and its had 2 coats of the green emulsion we want I think I bought medium tack tape so is that too strong I'm going to do the top again where the paints come of but this time use in yellow frog tape also when I put the tape on I had to go over it about 3 times to cover the green what's got on the ceiling should I take the tape of after each time thanks for the help
@@craigguinnane173 Craig, so it should not matter how many coats of paint you apply to the tape. You'll notice in my video I applied 3 coats of paint to the tape with no issues. The importance here is a strong bond of the finishing plaster to the wall, and a strong bond of the paint to the wall. Use a poly vinyl acrylic (PVA) to prime the plaster after it has dried completely, then apply your two coats of finish. Another thing you might want to take into consideration is priming the area before applying the plaster. When you pulled the tape the first time, did it take off just the paint, or did it actually take off a lot of the plaster? If it took off a lot of the plaster, then the plaster did not bond well to the wall. If you are not in too big of a hurry and are worried about the paint pulling off again, you may want to try doing just a small area first, as I'm suggesting, and test it. And yes, using the yellow frog tape should help.
@@DaveMartin I primed the walls before plastering with 2 coats of pva after the plastering I used to coats of white emulsion but I didn't water it down maybe that's where I went wrong as well it's the final coat of paint which is green what the tape has pulled of no plaster maybe I didn't leave it long enough to dry but it was left for about 5 days I left a couple of pieces of tape on another wall by mistake just spotted them peeled that of and no paint came away thanks for your time any way mate much appreciated
Yes, you can use this method and bring the tape closer to the ceiling, or even to the ceiling. Over the years, I have found that cutting directly into the ceiling was not the look I ideally wanted (it was never as clean and as straight as I wanted), so I decided to bring the ceiling color down so I could control how the ceiling cut in looked. It's a personal decision and I have found that it works best for me. Thanks for the question!
This is a great technique to get a crisp super clean line with tape. I always do this in weird attics where you have a curved ceiling that turns into a wall and you want to make a nice line... But putting it on normal ceilings like this is ridiculous to me. I need my ceiling lines to be at the ceiling. I understand your reasoning, and sure for crown moldings this is acceptable, but normal ceilings? This would drive me nuts. Waaaayy too much effort and to my eyes a horrible look, even though the line is crisp and clean.
Are you tall by any chance? I have had two clients not like this concept and it was because they were tall and they didn’t like being able to see the line “basically at eye level” ;-) Totally get it and thanks for the comment!
@@DaveMartin I'm 6' tall, been a painter for 20years. I've done everything from cheap flips to million+ dollar homes. This technique is amazing and regularly used on baseboards, curved ceilings, and crown moldings usually with the lighter color being covered up by the darker one... So it clearly works for achieving a razor sharp line straighter than anyone is able to freehand... But if I started doing this on normal ceilings I'd never be called back again. To me it sticks out worse than a slightly wavy line(which is also unacceptable).
@@AlexKunstar I've been using this concept since 1998 and have only had two complaints, totally in the eye of the beholder I guess. I also don't use this concept on cove as, ironic as it sounds, makes the cove look too wide. It's a totally subjective idea.
@@DaveMartin well we definitely have to agree to disagree. Solid technique, wrong application. I would be willing to bet if I fixed your ceiling lines from the past 20years I wouldn't get complaints either, and bring that number down to zero. To me, unfortunately this sticks out like a sore thumb and would be something I would instantly notice and have a major problem with. I'd rather caulk and make the ceiling line straighter that way than to bring it down soooo low on the wall. If it was an actual 1/16 of an inch, then maybe I could live with it... But that looks more like 1/4th to almost 1/2 an inch... I just cannot, will not, ever like it. But I think we can both agree it's better than having wall color up on the ceiling.
I also want to clarify when I said technique I am only referring to sealing in the edge of the tape with the color underneath it first, allowing it to dry, and then painting over it to make sure there is a razor sharp line with zero bleed through. Artificial gaps that you're creating here are unacceptable in my world under any circumstances.
Must be nice 😭 😸☺️ I appreciate you. My boss would have me hanged for using tape...only high risk areas we would use frog or blue with clear caulking to bang that out even faster/ safer but this IS enlightening thank you
@@thomastrumigneault8918 no argument there in most cases. In action it actually saves time BUT only if the plan is to prepare & protect from jump before starting the job you know? So it's hang time for us all the time lmaooo
I roll the ceilings first thing, but I do not cut in next to the walls. Then, when everything else is done (walls and trim), I cut in the ceiling line.
I use 3M's "Delicate Surface" tape. It now is a light purple color, it used to be blue with the orange inner core (as shown in the video). You could also use the yellow Frog Tape, but I still recommend sealing the tape with paint.
After you tape, you want to seal the tape to protect the ceiling paint from leaking behind the tape. To seal the tape, you want to paint with the color you are trying to protect with the tape, in this case, the wall color. The wall color helps prevent the ceiling color from leaking behind the tape. Does that make sense? Thanks!
@@DaveMartin for me I started doing the walls first and the wall color will be darker than the ceiling can this techique apply even if u arent doing a whitr line in the middle? Im a bit confused as to how to do it. thats why I ask.
You honestly think it looks right to have your cut-in line 1/8” onto the wall? The first thing I saw on the opening shot was the ceiling paint on the wall. Horrible look for a “professional.” Maybe for a homeowner DIY job it’s ok, but I’d fire any of my painters for leaving that look.
Fired? wow. I've been doing this process for over 20 years and you are the 4th person who didn't like the look. Here are a few photos of my work; I don't do it everywhere, but on ceilings that have no cove. If, after looking at the work, you don't like the way it ultimately looks, fair enough. www.davemartinpainting.com Thanks for the feedback (even if you do hate it).
Cutting in by hand is hard to master for someone who does not paint for a living (it takes lots of practice and a steady hand). Taping is the easiest way to solve that problem.
I can imagine a pro thinking a freehand cut in is obviously not as perfect as a taped one, but I can sure save a lot of time and tape expense going freehand. Dave, I am very impressed with how you take pains to explain stuff to us amateurs. THANKS!
wtf??? so the point of taping is that you cut back onto an existing colour paint ... this guy is taping then continuing the same coloour and then cutting back with the ceiling colour... youll never make any money doing this it will take too long
Хобби
I just painted the whole downstairs of my house using your method and it turned out BEAUTIFUL! I appreciate you sharing your gift/skill with us.
My pleasure! Thanks for the feedback!
I binI’ve been painting for over 20 years I’ve never seen a tape job that way I def got a new way looks great and half the work 👍👍👍👍👍
THANK YOU for posting this.... I was struggling on this with a textured ceiling and this worked so well. This technique helped me tremendously. Appreciate you taking the time to put this out.
My pleasure, I'm really glad it worked out for you.
Thanks!
I'd like to add, if you're painting with satin or semigloss you'll want to pull it off while the paint is still damp or it could and most likely will peel in spots. Leaving it overnight is a good idea for flat wall paint.
I can speak from experience because I ended up pealing up a ton of the wall paint which created raised portions and uneven wall paint texture. Major hassle to fix.
Wow thats smart. I was about to paint my ceiling and never would have thought to make a line and use the wall color paint. 😲. Mind blown🤯
I have been decorating my house in preparation for Christmas, and I stumbled across your video when looking for ideas/methods to tackle high ceilings and having a polished finish. I tried your method and it works perfectly. So I am writing this comment to thank you for sharing your knowledge. Have a lovely Christmas!
My pleasure, thanks so much for the comment. Merry Christmas!
Thank you, Dave! This is excellent advice, will try this technique in my kitchen (which annoyingly has a heavily textured ceiling).
Thanks for the comment. I have updated this video, so if you haven't seen it, I've added a couple of things I think are important. ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
Thanks!
Thank you!!! I just painted and could not get a crisp line between my ceiling and wall... I was gonna just cover it up with crown moulding, but you saved me from having to do that! Im going to use your trick everytime!
My pleasure! Thanks for the comment!
Hi Dave, just wanted to say a big thank you for this video. I tried this method today and it gave me the most straight clean lines ive ever achieved. I am based in the UK and have recently started out as a part time painter and decorator. This tip has saved me loads of time and effort (and worry) I'll be using this method from now on. Cheers Jamie
Jamie,
Thanks so much for the kind words, I'm really glad the video helped.
Best,
Dave
part time hamdyman you mean..No real painter and decorator would paint walls before they paint ceilings for starters..and they deffo wouldnt be taping up walls to get a straight line lol
@@smartyjones8391 whatever mate. Its helped me out
@@jamiegunn20 Dnt be mad with my post bruh.I'm just stating facts..why would you paint walls before you paint a ceiling? That's just bullshitting around. You always paint ceilings first
@@smartyjones8391 i dont paint walls before ceilings.
Wish i seen this a week ago🤦♂️! What a line!!!👍🏼👍🏼
Will definitely be trying this tomorrow! This is great advice thanks!
It almost looks like you caulked corner where wall meets ceiling or have a small top trim. Looks good.
Thank you taking the time to prepare the video. I am a little puzzled as to why you paint onto the tape with the colour used on the wall, since this has already been painted , then only to paint on top of that with the ceiling paint. Thanks
Am defo going to try this on my next job as my cut in have been horrible as it always goes in the celling but this looks wonderful , thank you sir 🙏🏿🙏🏿🙏🏿
My pleasure, good luck!
If you haven't seen it, I've updated this video which covers some issues you could run across when using tape on the walls. ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
I use that same technique for baseboards and trim. Paint all my trim first. Mask it, lightly feather on the trim finish to seal the edge of the tape, and then do my walls. Saves me DAYS of cutting. Maybe a few touchups here and there, but my lines are razor sharp. Looks like I made my lines with a ruler and pen. Attention to details is what separates the artisans from the shoemakers.
Agreed, as I'm proud of my freehand cut in lines, nothing compares to taping up.
Thanks much for the comment!
Thank you so much for making this video, I recently followed this when painting our living room and when I removed the tape it looked amazing, so sharp and modern looking! Thanks again 👌👍
My pleasure, thanks for the kind words!
That's a nice tip for homeowners but us professionals really don't do things that way.
That is true...this site is not for professionals.
Turned out perfect, I couldn’t believe.
I did follow the advice of another person here to remove tape when still wet if using satin (me🙋🏻♀️) and it came out just perfect.
Thank you for this video.
My pleasure
Awesome stuff dude just bought a house will be doing this ! looks way clean. Do you recommend doing this also on the bottom transition from white base board to colored wall? Like a small gap into the paint caulked ? thanks man
Sorry for the delay, if you go to my site www.askdavethepainter.com and look under the "painting" section, I talk about taping up the base and the vertical trim for the windows and door frames. The idea is the same, but the placement of the tape is a bit different. I will be adding a video section in a day or two. Thanks for the question.
Looks so crisp and fresh. It's like next level stuff :D. I much prefer this way among the other ones. Great job and thanks for sharing your experience. Cheers
Always do this except I use frog tape (and/or) blue tape with a thin layer of caulk. Put on wipe it off....keeps from having to wait for the color of the wall paint to dry before applying the ceiling color, as well as no "bridging " from the dried wall paint.
That process works well, but in most circumstances I don’t use caulk. If you’re interested I have a video on my channel on why I usually don’t use caulk. I am guessing you are a professional and since these videos are more for novices, I think it works better for them. Thanks for the comment!
What a great video, this is exactly what I will try tomorrow. Such a good instructions as well. Thanks, cheers Torgeir
Thank You!
@@DaveMartin This was very handy thank you I was wondering do you need to caulk the ceiling if you do this or does it depend on the ceiling edging ☺
Chrissy 212e It depends on the condition of the ceiling edge; if it has a crack, or if it’s rough, I will caulk it.
The ceiling is down on the wall a 1/4 in. Dont think customer would like that,
All those walls look great especially when you’re doing the custom colors and the darker the room it really pops when the Job is finished I noticed the last wall I’m not sure if that was a A shade of black looking online I know the grays been in the last five years or so before that it was costume brown and tan colors now Gray dark gray and shades of black there’s so many great paint jobs online it’s hard to pick
Hello, why do you seal with the wall colour first. Is it so that if there is initial bleed through it is the correct colour, then the subsequent ceiling colour cannot bleed through as it sits on top of the sealed wall colour?? Thanks
Looks good. Two questions: 1) why are you sealing the tape with the wall paint? Why not just paint the ceiling, down to the tape, once you've finished taping? 2) why blue tape? (as opposed to green or yellow?)
So to the first question, I seal the tape with the wall paint so that the ceiling paint will not leak behind the tape; if you just paint the ceiling paint onto the tape without sealing it with the wall paint, especially on a textured wall, the ceiling color may leak behind the tape.
For the green or yellow, you could use any of those tapes, but I would recommend using a safe release (low adhesion) tape; the blue tape is a safe release tape. If you are going to use the Frog Tape, I would use the yellow (low adhesion) tape.
@@DaveMartin Right on. Thank you.
Thank you so much!! Very beautiful work!!
hi, does this work if the wall is a silk finish and ceiling a matt finish? because some silk will go onto the ceiling then you need to cover it with matt paint
This worked for me exactly like it was supposed to. I appreciate you sharing your experience with us. I never would’ve thought that I’d be able to get a straight line with a textured wall & ceiling. The only hiccup I had - & this may be due to the humidity in my area, as I live on the Gulf Coast - was when I pulled the tape, the wall paint came with it in some areas. It was easily repaired with a small brush.
Thank for the feedback! There could be a few reasons the paint pulled: if the tape you used wasn’t a super safe release tape, what’s known as a low adhesion tape, that could do it. Medium adhesion tapes are to sticky, especially if you had just recently painted the wall you were taping to. Sometimes people will apply spackle, mud, or new texture and will not prime said areas; if those areas are painted with wall paint, then taped to, that would cause the paint to pull off the wall. Finally, if the wall paint was not completely dry and was then taped to, that could cause the paint to come off. You mentioned it was warm where you are at, one thing to keep in mind is that air flow is more important than warmth for a paint to dry. Setting up a fan and cracking open a couple of windows or doors will really help with the drying process. Thanks!
Dave Martin thanks for your reply. I wondered if maybe my tape was too sticky, but your reply made me realize the problem: the wall had, in fact, been newly textured & it had never been painted before. It was SUCH a job - I felt like it was absorbing that paint like a sponge! But I was so pleased with my very straight ceiling line (thanks to you) & seeing it all finished made it worth all the work. Thanks again.
@@bridgett.4744 My pleasure!
My parents ceilings were painted 1/8 down the wall and it’s the best look ever. I’m now doing my house this way.
Thanks for reply Dave. Do you prefer to cut that ceiling line lower because most ceilings in America are textured? Would you still adopt that style for smooth ceilings?The finishing product which you showed looked very nice indeed and i would like that finish also but my lines are not as thick as a finishing product. They are thinner transitions which i am not that fond of. I much prefer the way your transition lines are nice and bold. How can i achieve that bold white transition line please? I have followed your video. Maybe i need thicker white paint?
No, I don't bring the line lower because most American ceilings are textured. I use this method for all ceilings, smooth, textured and for popcorn ceilings. I bring the line down for two main reasons: one is that ceilings undulate (have a tendency to not be truly level and have a slight wavey look to them); and, two, because a corner to corner cut (i.e. a cut where the ceiling meets the walls) rarely looks clean to me. When you look at a corner to corner cut, let's say where the wall meets the ceiling, most paint jobs will have some wall paint on the ceiling in some areas and I don't care for the look of that. I've been painting a long time, and it's still difficult to create a clean line without getting some wall paint on the ceiling, so to solve that problem, I brought the ceiling color down just a bit onto the wall. I can control how straight the line is, so it helps with the undulations as well.
I tape down about 1/8 of an inch from the ceiling, so you can try testing (adjusting your line width) in a small area until you find the line width you think is best. As for the "thicker" white paint, try applying another coat of the ceiling paint. Sometimes when you apply just one coat, it won't cover well until you apply another coat. One reason that you may not see the line that well is that the ceiling and wall color are two similar in color making it harder to see the line. Thanks!
Thank You Dave. Very much appreciated.
@@mandyg.3004 My pleasure.
great video, thanks for making this. what do you do if you want to paint the walls of a room but not paint the ceiling? How do you get a nice line where the top of the wall meets the ceiling then?
Do it exactly like the video using your existing ceiling color; your just not rolling the ceiling, you are simply cutting in the edge. Once the ceiling color is dry, it should blend in with the rest of the ceiling. Make sure you acclimate the ceiling paint in the room you're painting for at least a day and make sure you mix the ceiling paint really well.
The only problem here is if you do not have the existing ceiling color or you do not know what the existing ceiling color is.
If you do not know or have the existing ceiling paint, you'll need to find a paint (color and sheen) that matches the ceiling. Do the best you can. Paint the wall color up to the ceiling, but try not to get the wall color on the ceiling itself (just try the best you can). Tape up the ceiling, seal the tape, but again, try not to get any of the wall paint onto the ceiling when you are sealing the tape. Once that is dry, cut in the new ceiling color, but again, try not to get too much, if any, of the new ceiling color on the ceiling in case it's not an exact match. I know it's a little more work, but you are basically doing the same thing as the video without touching the ceiling too much. Doing it this way, if the new ceiling color does not match the old ceiling color exactly you won't be able to tell the difference because you are technically just painting the ceiling color on the wall and not the ceiling. If that doesn't make sense, please let me know.
Thanks!
@@DaveMartin makes sense, thanks for the detailed response!
Then you would tape ceiling then seal the edge of tape with clear paintable caulk, that's another alternative to this method, make sure you press or wipe caulk down almost completely you just sealing the edge of tape I like this method better because you paint right after tape + caulk.
@@DaveMartin Your videos are really excellent, so thank you for making this great series of tutorials. It’s been very helpful and enlightening. I also had the same question as the viewer above that you replied to about if you’re not (re)painting the ceiling so thank you for the detailed response. I’m hoping for great results.
Dam I never seen it done that way it looks great and you only are taping one time I always done it different when I was doing the ceiling tape at the top of the wall and when I was doing the walls at the top of the ceiling I did it really straight it come out looking good but that way I’m gonna be doing it that way for now on
Hi Dave
I was watching your other Video about taping door frames to cut the wall back in. My question is this. I prefer an oil based Gloss. Would it be possible to follow your steps in that video using oil based gloss over water based?
Yes, you can tape to the oil trim paint when it's dry (I'd let it dry 24 hours before taping to it), then seal the tape with the oil base paint. Unfortunately, you will need to wait another 24 hours for the oil to dry before starting with the wall color.
@@DaveMartin Thank You. Its a long process regarding time, but worthwhile.
@@mandyg.3004 I completely agree; patience is the key to a beautiful paint job. Good luck!
I’ve always uses tape but I would tape the ceiling to get the wall perfect then tape the wall to get wall perfect I really want to try this way it looks really great when the job is done and saves so much time that blue tape you are using definitely not the blue 3M I buy at home depo
Thanks for posting the video, but I did have a question about painting the white ceiling paint after sealing the tape. It appears as though the white ceiling paint in your video appears to cover up the wall paint rather easily (perhaps due to its lighter color). Do you ever have an issue with the underlying wall paint showing through the white ceiling paint, even after applying two coats of the white? If so, would you just proceed with another coat of the white ceiling paint, or consider a primer at that point? (I was also not sure if this would have anything to do with the different sheens of the paint if it did occur, ceiling paint obviously being flat)
It depends on what color I am covering. In most instances, it should cover in two coats.
The two issues that come to mind are: a) did you use some older paint and, if so, was it mixed really well before being used? or b) sometimes less expensive paints (like the Contractor or Economical lines from a certain manufacturer (or brand)) will have fewer solids in them so they will not cover as well. I recommend using the Premium or Super Premium lines.
In the video I used Benjamin Moore's Ultra Flat Ceiling paint; it's really flat and is really high in solids, a great choice for ceilings and, as you can see, covers exceptionally well.
Since you have already applied two coats, I would just try and apply another coat. If that doesn't work, I would really recommend switching the brand or the line.
I have an old 'popcorn' style textured ceiling and had a miserable time cutting in the lines b/t the walls and ceilings when I painted 10 years ago. Considered crown molding, but never committed to purchasing and installing it! Just recently started painting my home again. I attempted to use your method in my bathroom and as a result, I am very pleased w/ it! I did, however, have some white ceiling paint bleed thru the tape with the wall paint sealed barrier, but not in too many places. Should be an easy touch up.
Question: What type of painter's tape do you recommend? Any ideas or suggestions as to why some of the ceiling paint penetrated the barrier? Believe I used 3M blue painter's tape!
Awesome method for cutting in paint between a textured ceiling and drywall in order to achieve a straight line!
I use 3M's super safe release tape (used to be blue, now it's purple). The 3M tape you may have used is the "Original" cloth tape. I'm not a fan of that tape as it's known as a medium adhesion tape, I prefer a delicate or low adhesion tape.
Are the walls textured? and if so, is it a heavy texture? If that is the case, make sure you apply the tape tightly to the wall, pressing carefully as you apply it to get into the texture voids really well. You also may need to do two coats of the sealing to really make sure it's sealed well. It is rare that with my version, especially on a textured surface, that all of the bleeding will be controlled. Hopefully, you can stop most of it, and any excess can be touched up with an artist's brush.
Thanks!
Thank you but how do l paint walls after painting the ceilings…….🇨🇦
I am curious if the wall is already painted the correct color and was all the way up in the corner why wouldn't you just tape up the wall in the first place and then run your white ceiling color along that edge why put more wall color up in that corner thank you for your information
Why do you prefer this over using caulk to seal the tape?
here's a link to a video on my thoughts on using caulk ruclips.net/video/G2URxlCrQfo/видео.html
You can also find the video on my website, www.askdavethepainter.com under "painting the room"
Will this approach still work well with very dark wall colours? Thanks
Yes, it does not matter how dark the wall color is as long as you seal the tape first. Thanks!
How do you avoid the paint bleeding under the tape? All of the Blue EdgeLock and Frog tape eventually bleeds, especially if you let it dry.
How do you avoid the tape not ripping off the existing paint? I peel the tape back over itself as you do to reduce damage and pull a cleaner line, but it still rips paint off, especially on freshly painted walls.
In the video I mention sealing the tape with paint to keep the new color from leaking behind the tape; it is the first color I apply once I have applied the tape. You are right, especially on rough surfaces, Frog Tape and Edge Lock tapes will not usually stop paint bleed.
There are two things to think about when you are taping up; first, you must make sure that the paint you are taping to is completely dry. The second, and most important, is to use a super safe release tape, what's known as a low adhesion tape. You run a much lower risk of pulling off the paint below the tape if you use a low adhesion tape. I use Scotch Edge Lock Delicate Surface tape (2080), you could also use the yellow Frog Tape. I never use a medium or high adhesion tape on a painted surface.
The second, and most common reason the tape will pull off the paint it is taped to, is that sometimes when you do texture work or you spackle/mud and you don't prime those areas before you final paint the walls, the wall paint will not stick well to the texture or mud/spackle areas and will pull off easily.
@@DaveMartin Thanks for the reply Dave! I usually use the Scotch Edge Lock myself, I like the low adhesion and easy tear lines. However, I have pulled paint off entire walls of beautifully taped Edge Lock tape though, all tapes for that matter. I've considered the purple Delicate Surface tape, and the yellow Frog, but I think you might be right about the primer. I always prime but mostly with all-purpose primer. I've noticed the primer designed specifically for drywall and mud adheres much better, more like a glue, and might help prevent the paint from pulling up in those areas.
@@DaveMartin I just tried some purple delicate tape, came off very nicely, did a great job. Will be using that going forward on freshly primed and painted drywall! Could have been the primer combo as well, will experiment but great results, thanks!
@@WillyDrucker I'm not sure if you've seen it, but I just redid the ceiling cut in video; please let me know what you think. I added a section on things that could go wrong.
ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
Massive thanks my man, finally got straight lines from wall to ceiling 🙌🙌🙌
My pleasure, I'm glad it was helpful!
Confused - Why paint the beige wall color over the tape first if you are just going to go back over the same section with the ceiling white? It seems like an unnecessary step?
By using the beige color first you are sealing the tape; it helps keep the white ceiling paint from leaking behind the tape. On a textured wall especially, if you do not seal the tape with the wall color, the ceiling color will bleed behind the tape.
Do you use the same method up against door casing, crown moldings and base?
I use the same method, but placement of the tape is different. I have videos on taping up and sealing the vertical runs and taping and sealing the base runs.
ruclips.net/video/H7vu9nBSmm4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/fHd_gNlygOY/видео.html
For crown, if there is enough of a lip on the bottom of the crown to tape to, I will tape it up, otherwise I will cut it in by hand.
Here is my youtube channel:
ruclips.net/channel/UCVbDJ-TdTeTVl2Lx85WyGcQ
Thanks!
@@DaveMartin So you would need to do this for each coat or do you leave the tape in place?
Giovani Giorgos you would leave the tape in place
Very good video.
Dude, Excellent technique! 👌
Just finished peeling the low tack tape off and WOW!! Looks absolutely brilliant . Shame I can’t like the video 1000 x
Thanks!
Will this work with satin paint, I tried the caulking method awhile back and it peeled.
It should work with any sheen, but watch the following video first, it talks about how things can go wrong; it’s an updated version of the video you watched.
ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
I also have a video on the caulking method, I’ll send it along in a minute.
Here’s the vid on the caulk method: ruclips.net/video/G2URxlCrQfo/видео.html
Very helpful
You sir are a genius!
This is good if the wall paint is thoroughly dry. How can you do this to finish a room in one day? Tape will pull the wall color off.
petestreet if you want to try and do it in one day, the first thing you should paint is the wall cut in line with the wall paint first; you want to give it lots of time to dry, so if you do it first, then do other work for at least 4 hours, the paint should be dry enough to tape to. If you feel the paint is drying slow, set up a fan and crack a couple of windows to get good airflow. After the paint is dry (at least 4 hours), use a super safe release tape, what’s called a low adhesion tape to do your taping (I use 3m Scotch’s Edge Lock Delicate Surface tape (it’s light purple and the product # is 2080). Now as I don’t like this method, to finish in one day, follow my video, but instead of sealing the tape with paint, use Clear Caulk and caulk the edge of the tape, then paint your ceiling color. It is imperative that the caulk does not start to dry!!! You apply the caulk, wipe the caulk out with your finger, paint the ceiling color, then remove the tape. I will send a link to a video of why I don’t like this, but I do cover the process. If you use the caulk method, you can do it in a day as long as you paint the area you need to paint to early in the day and use caulk instead of paint to seal the paint. Thanks!
petestreet ruclips.net/video/G2URxlCrQfo/видео.html
@@DaveMartin Thank you for your advice.
petestreet my pleasure
How long do I wait to apply the ceiling coat after the 1st coat used to seal, is it a few hours ? Great video!
Till it drys he said. Hows London these days?
Hi, what if you don’t have the ceiling color?
Great video thanks!
My pleasure, thanks for the comment!
Hi will the masking tape when left to not pull the existing paint off the wall??
This is an updated version of the video which will answer your question:
ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
Thanks!
Remeber to always have a clean surface.
Never seen this method, interesting indeed
Thanks...I've just recently updated this video, you can see it here ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
there is a gap. you need the line at the edge, not below.
Thank you for this is just what I was looking for.
Thanks for the comment. I would really recommend watching the following updated version of this video:
ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
Thanks!
@@DaveMartin I watched that aswell, thank you so much I had my flat soundproof and it was plastered and paint by a contractor, the ceiling edges were left in miserable state, I watched this and was able to fix my ceiling edges myself thank very much Gob bless you.
Would this type of line that comes onto the wall look good from wall to coving?
Also I’ll be using Delicate surface frog tape would you advise with it against that?
FrumpyBoyo I usually will not do this with coving, but it is totally up to you. The best way to approach it is to try it on a small portion and see what you think. Sometimes if the cove is really wide, the extra line makes the whole cove look even wider and it just doesn’t feel or look right. I have a video on taping vertical trim pieces, if you decide not to do the line, I would use that video as a template for how to tape to the cove and create a clean line that way. As for the Frog Tape, I always recommend using a low adhesion tape, so yes, definitely use the yellow one. Thanks, let me know if this all makes sense.
Dave Martin thankyou for your reply Dave, I may have jumped the gun here 10 minutes before your comment I may have started this haha. Fingers crossed it looks ok though...as you said the coving is rather wide! This is my first ever time painting and wish I came across your videos a last week!
FrumpyBoyo I’m sure in the scheme of things it will look just fine! Good luck and thanks for the question.
Leaving the tape on for days only works with flat paint. Don't try this with any paint that has a sheen. The paint will bridge the tape and when you let it dry then go to pull it, the paint will come with it.
Thanks for the comment. I’m going to disagree with you up to a point. In my experience using this method, which I have been doing for quite a while, I do not have the bridging problem with the paint, no matter the sheen. The thing to keep in mind is that a 100% acrylic paint once completely dry will “break” when you pull the tape. The bridging and the paint pulling off, in my experience, is when a Vinyl Acrylic paint is used, or if the tape is pulled too soon (it needs to be completely dry). With a Vinyl Acrylic paint, you’re correct, it can create a rubbery bond between the wall and the tape and when pulled will stretch the paint and not pull cleanly.
The same issue can happen if you pull the tape while the paint is drying; it will not have dried enough and will be rubbery at that time as well. I use 100% Acrylic paints and allow them to dry fully before pulling the tape. I have created a newer version of this video and will do another one discussing your point. Thanks much.
Scott cheney ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
THANK YOUUUU !
What paint brush are you using on this video?
It's a Purdy 2.5" XL-Dale sash brush. My favorite brush by far.
@@DaveMartin awesome thank you so much for your quick reply going to buy one tomorrow. And thank you for the video too! Looking forward to trying your method!
What if your lines are not straight? ( halfway across room it starts curving)
Do you mean that the wall is curved, or that the ceiling seems to go up and down in areas?
I'm going to assume the latter. As the ceiling starts to get crooked, take the tape and just try to bring it up or down with the undulation as best you can. The thing you want to try and avoid is making dramatic movements with the tape. So lessen the slope of the tape so there is not an exaggeration of the tape. The tape can go up and down as necessary; in the scheme of things, you just try and do the best you can with what you have.
If this doesn't make sense, you can send me an email davepatrickmartin@gmail.com and I will send along a couple of pictures of what I mean.
Thanks!
@@DaveMartin hi mate, I'll definitely send u an email explaining what I mean. Basically,i don't really know the answer, but you'll know what i mean when i send u picture.
Tryed this on a a skimmed wall put 2 coats of emulsion on let it dry then taped with blue tape and it pulled all the paint of at the top where the tape was am I doing something wrong or do you think I should of used yellow frog tape any help please
When you say you skimmed the wall, can I assume you had put drywall mud (joint compound) on the wall? If that's the case, did you apply any kind of primer before applying the 2 coats, as that would be an important step? Primer acts as a binder for the final coat(s) of paint. Also, it's important that the blue tape is not the 3M "Original," it needs to be the super safe release (a low adhesion tape).
@@DaveMartin thanks for the reply mate yeah it's just a finishing plaster I used white emulsion to prime the wall but I didn't water it down my first time doing it and its had 2 coats of the green emulsion we want I think I bought medium tack tape so is that too strong I'm going to do the top again where the paints come of but this time use in yellow frog tape also when I put the tape on I had to go over it about 3 times to cover the green what's got on the ceiling should I take the tape of after each time thanks for the help
@@craigguinnane173 Craig, so it should not matter how many coats of paint you apply to the tape. You'll notice in my video I applied 3 coats of paint to the tape with no issues. The importance here is a strong bond of the finishing plaster to the wall, and a strong bond of the paint to the wall. Use a poly vinyl acrylic (PVA) to prime the plaster after it has dried completely, then apply your two coats of finish. Another thing you might want to take into consideration is priming the area before applying the plaster. When you pulled the tape the first time, did it take off just the paint, or did it actually take off a lot of the plaster? If it took off a lot of the plaster, then the plaster did not bond well to the wall.
If you are not in too big of a hurry and are worried about the paint pulling off again, you may want to try doing just a small area first, as I'm suggesting, and test it.
And yes, using the yellow frog tape should help.
@@DaveMartin I primed the walls before plastering with 2 coats of pva after the plastering I used to coats of white emulsion but I didn't water it down maybe that's where I went wrong as well it's the final coat of paint which is green what the tape has pulled of no plaster maybe I didn't leave it long enough to dry but it was left for about 5 days I left a couple of pieces of tape on another wall by mistake just spotted them peeled that of and no paint came away thanks for your time any way mate much appreciated
Hi. Is it not possible using this method to tape tighter to the ceiling?
Yes, you can use this method and bring the tape closer to the ceiling, or even to the ceiling. Over the years, I have found that cutting directly into the ceiling was not the look I ideally wanted (it was never as clean and as straight as I wanted), so I decided to bring the ceiling color down so I could control how the ceiling cut in looked. It's a personal decision and I have found that it works best for me. Thanks for the question!
@DaveMartin great videos do your customers like it and do you ask them first
Thank you sir...
This is a great technique to get a crisp super clean line with tape. I always do this in weird attics where you have a curved ceiling that turns into a wall and you want to make a nice line... But putting it on normal ceilings like this is ridiculous to me. I need my ceiling lines to be at the ceiling. I understand your reasoning, and sure for crown moldings this is acceptable, but normal ceilings? This would drive me nuts. Waaaayy too much effort and to my eyes a horrible look, even though the line is crisp and clean.
Are you tall by any chance? I have had two clients not like this concept and it was because they were tall and they didn’t like being able to see the line “basically at eye level” ;-) Totally get it and thanks for the comment!
@@DaveMartin I'm 6' tall, been a painter for 20years. I've done everything from cheap flips to million+ dollar homes. This technique is amazing and regularly used on baseboards, curved ceilings, and crown moldings usually with the lighter color being covered up by the darker one... So it clearly works for achieving a razor sharp line straighter than anyone is able to freehand... But if I started doing this on normal ceilings I'd never be called back again. To me it sticks out worse than a slightly wavy line(which is also unacceptable).
@@AlexKunstar I've been using this concept since 1998 and have only had two complaints, totally in the eye of the beholder I guess. I also don't use this concept on cove as, ironic as it sounds, makes the cove look too wide. It's a totally subjective idea.
@@DaveMartin well we definitely have to agree to disagree. Solid technique, wrong application. I would be willing to bet if I fixed your ceiling lines from the past 20years I wouldn't get complaints either, and bring that number down to zero. To me, unfortunately this sticks out like a sore thumb and would be something I would instantly notice and have a major problem with. I'd rather caulk and make the ceiling line straighter that way than to bring it down soooo low on the wall. If it was an actual 1/16 of an inch, then maybe I could live with it... But that looks more like 1/4th to almost 1/2 an inch... I just cannot, will not, ever like it. But I think we can both agree it's better than having wall color up on the ceiling.
I also want to clarify when I said technique I am only referring to sealing in the edge of the tape with the color underneath it first, allowing it to dry, and then painting over it to make sure there is a razor sharp line with zero bleed through. Artificial gaps that you're creating here are unacceptable in my world under any circumstances.
Must be nice 😭 😸☺️ I appreciate you. My boss would have me hanged for using tape...only high risk areas we would use frog or blue with clear caulking to bang that out even faster/ safer but this IS enlightening thank you
The tape is so dear
Yup takes to much time
@@thomastrumigneault8918 no argument there in most cases. In action it actually saves time BUT only if the plan is to prepare & protect from jump before starting the job you know? So it's hang time for us all the time lmaooo
I don’t know who you are, but I know genius when I see it. Brilliant tip. Fucking thanks.
you're very welcome!
I’m going to try this today. I hope it works out well!
I updated this video and I'd really recommend watching the updated version first.
ruclips.net/video/c8ZZ6qUiBf8/видео.html
Thanks!
I just peeled the tape and it looks crisp! Super happy thank you!
So what your doing is painting the ceiling last?
Wow, u not worried about splatter from ceiling on walls?
I roll the ceilings first thing, but I do not cut in next to the walls. Then, when everything else is done (walls and trim), I cut in the ceiling line.
What is the name of the tape your using,
I use 3M's "Delicate Surface" tape. It now is a light purple color, it used to be blue with the orange inner core (as shown in the video). You could also use the yellow Frog Tape, but I still recommend sealing the tape with paint.
Why paint the wall color first then the ceiling color? Why not just tape and paint the ceiling color?
After you tape, you want to seal the tape to protect the ceiling paint from leaking behind the tape. To seal the tape, you want to paint with the color you are trying to protect with the tape, in this case, the wall color. The wall color helps prevent the ceiling color from leaking behind the tape. Does that make sense? Thanks!
Works perfectly! Thanks!
Excellent!
How can I contact you , I have a patented tool for paint protect by apply painter tape in corner area, search:corner tape dispenser
You can email me at davepatrickmartin@gmail.com
very good video
Thank you!
I do exactly the same but take the wall color up onto the ceiling about an eighth, turns out beautiful
Use frog tape never pulls paint off
Wow
what if your wall color is darker than the ceiling color?
I'm not sure I understand your question; in the video, the wall color is darker than the ceiling color.
@@DaveMartin for me I started doing the walls first and the wall color will be darker than the ceiling can this techique apply even if u arent doing a whitr line in the middle? Im a bit confused as to how to do it. thats why I ask.
Wayyyy too thick. Tape 1/16” from the ceiling. That looks like 1/4 or 3/8”!
You honestly think it looks right to have your cut-in line 1/8” onto the wall? The first thing I saw on the opening shot was the ceiling paint on the wall. Horrible look for a “professional.” Maybe for a homeowner DIY job it’s ok, but I’d fire any of my painters for leaving that look.
Fired? wow. I've been doing this process for over 20 years and you are the 4th person who didn't like the look.
Here are a few photos of my work; I don't do it everywhere, but on ceilings that have no cove. If, after looking at the work, you don't like the way it ultimately looks, fair enough.
www.davemartinpainting.com
Thanks for the feedback (even if you do hate it).
Obviously not a pro decorator.... shouldn't need tape....
Cutting in by hand is hard to master for someone who does not paint for a living (it takes lots of practice and a steady hand). Taping is the easiest way to solve that problem.
Shutup ya weirdo his lines look awesome!
Obviously not a pro as he's watching a painting tutorial.
@@DG-om9gd Phil Bray is correct..Pro decorators dnt tape walls to get straight lines..they cut in walls..aka free hand
I can imagine a pro thinking a freehand cut in is obviously not as perfect as a taped one, but I can sure save a lot of time and tape expense going freehand.
Dave, I am very impressed with how you take pains to explain stuff to us amateurs. THANKS!
wtf??? so the point of taping is that you cut back onto an existing colour paint ... this guy is taping then continuing the same coloour and then cutting back with the ceiling colour... youll never make any money doing this it will take too long