Replaced belt no problem, after a drive I started up again and the belt began to squeak and when I hit the gas it was worse! Solution; I pulled on the belt to check tension, I had around a half inch (probably less) of slack, I loosened the bolts, put a good amount of tension before tightening. Now the belt has almost no slack in it, started up the car and no squeak. 🙌
Great video. Thanks for sharing in a no-nonsense, straight to the point video. It only took me about 15 minutes to change mine out, and I am very much a novice. One note: my 14mm nut wouldn't come off. Rather than strip it by continuing to tug on it, I left it as is. Once the 12mm nut on top is loose, you can then use a hammer and some kind of driving tool (as an intermediary) to push the alternator back. From there, the belt will be loose enough to get off.
Thanks to this video in 10 minutes I changed my serpentine belt. The only thing that this video don't really tell you is when you put back the belt it's harder than it looks to wiggle it in place because the lack of space to move your hands.
Excellent video. You are lucky with that 14 mm bolt on the bottom of the alternator. There is almost no room for 3/8 drive ratchet and regular size 14 mm socket between bolt and wall. Yesterday I tried to replace the original serpentine belt on our 2010 Yaris. There is no way that bolt was torqued to 40 foot-pounds in the factory. Bolt is extremely soft and hex head is too shallow. I used a quality 6-point socket and I tried to do that with Proto 6-point wrench. I rounded the head of the bolt. I have to buy a bolt extractor socket and try to find a better quality flange type bolt than the original.
@@DrivenDailyGaming Thank you very much for a quick reply. I hope that my comment will help other people who are planning to do the same preventable maintenance job on Toyota Yaris. I was actually replacing every part of the cooling system with OEM Toyota parts. I replaced every hose and every clamp, thermostat, and radiator cap. I brushed a light coat of dielectric grease at the ends and inside of hoses so that the next person who is going to do that job in the future doesn't have to deal with stuck hoses. There is not much room in Yaris engine compartment and it was hard work. In the end, it was only a serpentine belt to be replaced and this was a big disappointment. This is another low quality and bad Toyota bolt beside their terrible shallow 24mm manual transmission fill and drain plug.
@@F0R3V3RFit In the end, I took that bolt out easily and without the help of a bolt extractor socket. I tried to solve the problem with a Fluid Film penetrant spray (I'm sure every penetrant would help), and it worked great. I lifted and secured the left side (driver's side) of my Yaris. I sprayed the penetrant down the remaining treads at the back of the alternator. I thought this was the only way that penetrant would completely reach the alternator's bottom mounting bolt treads. I kept spraying penetrant every couple of minutes for roughly 15 minutes. When I tried to unscrew the bolt I didn't have any hope but the bolt started to move immediately and came out easy. I used a six-point socket, a regular Flank Drive or maybe even my Snap-on Flank Drive Xtra (extra tight) 14 mm socket. I don't remember now. I purchased a brand new OEM Toyota bolt from the dealer and I applied a little anti-seize past on the treads of a new bolt.
Is it necessary to remove the bottom 14mm bolt? My belt broke yesterday and I was going to replace it, but someone already stripped the bolt before. I don't want to have to remove it, if I don't have to.
I know this video is a bit old but we did the belt on my car yesterday and all of a sudden today it’s sequels a bit on start up only? What could it be possibly? Thanks in advance
The video maybe old but I still reply lol, Just tighten the belt a little bit more. Also I noticed that with cheaper belts they would squeal after a short period of time. I never did a update video due to selling the car. But i bought a belt from the dealer and didn't have a squeal issue afterwards.
@@DrivenDailyGamingYes, some Car parts are better off buying from In house and not cheap versions. Break paddles and serpentine cable being one of them to avoid weird noises.
GUYS PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU FOLLOW THIS VIDEO! DO NOT MAKE THE MISTAKE OF PRYING THE ALTERNATOR TO PUT IT IN PLACE Because of this, I pryed against the Oil Control Valve and I wasted it. Be careful when doing it so it does not go bad.
Actually what happened is that, very casually, the engine light came on around 3 days after I changed the belt, I scanned it and it threw an error that pointed to a bad solenoid. I did some research and several people told me that if I changed the belt, probably I pried over it, but later looking at the car, I did not pry over it. I removed the solenoid, cleaned it thoroughly, put it back, and the light went off. I guess it was just mere coincidence, but I left the warning just in case for other people. Thanks anyway for replying!
@@DrivenDailyGaming If it is unsafe to pry it, how can we get it in place? I have seen other post about this with other people having problems. So just looking for the best way to do it. Thanks in advance.
Great video brotha. I am going to take a stab at this on my wife's 07' Yaris on Tuesday. I'll let you know how it goes if I don't die in the process. :)
I actually knocked it out yesterday morning! Had to turn into a contortionist to put the damn thing back on. lol. But, I did it! Oh and of course the other belt was fine but it no longer squeaks on start up. Thanks again brotha for the video. Great job.
Brother I've changed the belt today.. For a second it did se em it went pretty smooth... After I'm done I turned the engine on and I started riding ma car after 5 minutes of driving I smelled a burning blastic coming out of it..... Do you think its the new belt... And what should I do... Thanks in advance
Try and Spray some PB Blaster Onto the bolt and let it soak, then spray it again also make sure your are turning the counter clock wise to loosen the bolt. You may just need to use a longer Wrench/Ratchet to apply more pulling force. If anyone has changed it before someone may have over tightened it.
Thanks for the video, helped me change my serpentine belt. I still have a squeak/screech on startup though, especially on cold starts. Any ideas? I marked where the top bolt was with the old belt and put it back there.
Noise Of its probably not tight enough, try tightening the belt a little more. Even with a new belt if it isn't tight enough it will still squeal. Glad I was of some help. I will be uploading more shortly. What kind of other how to's do you need?
Thanks, tightening helped quite a bit. There's a little noise now but much better... I would have guessed loosen initially. A Yaris brake how to would be useful (not to dwell on the Yaris ha).
A fix I found was to just turn the key into the on position a couple seconds and then turn the engine over. For whatever reason this fixed the squeal at startup for my daughters Toyota yaris.
Replaced belt no problem, after a drive I started up again and the belt began to squeak and when I hit the gas it was worse!
Solution; I pulled on the belt to check tension, I had around a half inch (probably less) of slack, I loosened the bolts, put a good amount of tension before tightening. Now the belt has almost no slack in it, started up the car and no squeak. 🙌
Good stuff! Always check the tension of the belt .
Great video. Thanks for sharing in a no-nonsense, straight to the point video.
It only took me about 15 minutes to change mine out, and I am very much a novice. One note: my 14mm nut wouldn't come off. Rather than strip it by continuing to tug on it, I left it as is. Once the 12mm nut on top is loose, you can then use a hammer and some kind of driving tool (as an intermediary) to push the alternator back. From there, the belt will be loose enough to get off.
great video. i love how you spoke clearly and told what tools are used.
Toyota cars are unbustable! Lovem
They do make some really great vehicles
Thanks to this video in 10 minutes I changed my serpentine belt. The only thing that this video don't really tell you is when you put back the belt it's harder than it looks to wiggle it in place because the lack of space to move your hands.
Thank you for commenting, I am glad to have been able to help someone else. I didn't even think to mention that, mainly due to I'm use to it lol.
thanks, mine is making noises. 220,000 miles. belt cost around 20dlls. dealer wants to charge 260dlls
whats the part number on the belt you used ?
These are great little engines, and the best thing about them is no timing belt!
you right about that but there is a timing CHain.
i didn't need to lose the bottom, 14mm. the space there was too tight. only did loose the top. hit a little the alternator to push it back. easy. 😮
Belt toyota sells mitsuboshi but you also have some good genuine after market that are long lasting.
Excellent video.
You are lucky with that 14 mm bolt on the bottom of the alternator. There is almost no room for 3/8 drive ratchet and regular size 14 mm socket between bolt and wall.
Yesterday I tried to replace the original serpentine belt on our 2010 Yaris. There is no way that bolt was torqued to 40 foot-pounds in the factory. Bolt is extremely soft and hex head is too shallow. I used a quality 6-point socket and I tried to do that with Proto 6-point wrench.
I rounded the head of the bolt. I have to buy a bolt extractor socket and try to find a better quality flange type bolt than the original.
Dang I'm sorry to hear that. That sucks. Is there enough to possibly grab with a pair of vice grips?
@@DrivenDailyGaming Thank you very much for a quick reply. I hope that my comment will help other people who are planning to do the same preventable maintenance job on Toyota Yaris. I was actually replacing every part of the cooling system with OEM Toyota parts. I replaced every hose and every clamp, thermostat, and radiator cap. I brushed a light coat of dielectric grease at the ends and inside of hoses so that the next person who is going to do that job in the future doesn't have to deal with stuck hoses. There is not much room in Yaris engine compartment and it was hard work. In the end, it was only a serpentine belt to be replaced and this was a big disappointment. This is another low quality and bad Toyota bolt beside their terrible shallow 24mm manual transmission fill and drain plug.
As for the 14 mm screw. Taking out the 10 mm screw of the a/c line helps a lot
I've seen so many people have this issue with the 14mm bolt. Also rounded mine too and need to get a bolt extractor.
@@F0R3V3RFit In the end, I took that bolt out easily and without the help of a bolt extractor socket. I tried to solve the problem with a Fluid Film penetrant spray (I'm sure every penetrant would help), and it worked great.
I lifted and secured the left side (driver's side) of my Yaris. I sprayed the penetrant down the remaining treads at the back of the alternator. I thought this was the only way that penetrant would completely reach the alternator's bottom mounting bolt treads. I kept spraying penetrant every couple of minutes for roughly 15 minutes. When I tried to unscrew the bolt I didn't have any hope but the bolt started to move immediately and came out easy. I used a six-point socket, a regular Flank Drive or maybe even my Snap-on Flank Drive Xtra (extra tight) 14 mm socket. I don't remember now. I purchased a brand new OEM Toyota bolt from the dealer and I applied a little anti-seize past on the treads of a new bolt.
Is it necessary to remove the bottom 14mm bolt? My belt broke yesterday and I was going to replace it, but someone already stripped the bolt before. I don't want to have to remove it, if I don't have to.
Good deal bro
Super helpful
Thank you very informative
I'm about to do the same to my wife's car. The old belt just broke upon start up. Wish me luck.
CHIEMEKA AMUZIE you got it bro!
with a name like that you got it bro, d biafran pipo of ojukwu can do anything oo even I as a oyinbo know
good job sir. very helpful. thank you.
Thank you, for watching and you’re welcome. I’m grateful to have been of some help.
I know this video is a bit old but we did the belt on my car yesterday and all of a sudden today it’s sequels a bit on start up only? What could it be possibly? Thanks in advance
The video maybe old but I still reply lol, Just tighten the belt a little bit more. Also I noticed that with cheaper belts they would squeal after a short period of time. I never did a update video due to selling the car. But i bought a belt from the dealer and didn't have a squeal issue afterwards.
What is the correct belt to purchase the one i got seems yo be too short???
@@kyliepatchell9843 go to the dealer.... get original.
@@DrivenDailyGamingYes, some Car parts are better off buying from In house and not cheap versions. Break paddles and serpentine cable being one of them to avoid weird noises.
Just to note, a Toyota TSB states only to loosen the top bolt...
www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55164&d=1427165071
Also, the belt specs changed...
Original spec:
New Belt: 539-637 Nm
Used Belt: 245-392 Nm
Updated spec:
New Belt: 750-850 Nm
Used Belt: 375-400 Nm
Thanks for posting. This is helpful.
GUYS PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU FOLLOW THIS VIDEO!
DO NOT MAKE THE MISTAKE OF PRYING THE ALTERNATOR TO PUT IT IN PLACE
Because of this, I pryed against the Oil Control Valve and I wasted it. Be careful when doing it so it does not go bad.
Yes I should have stated what to be cautious of when prying, I hate to hear that happened to you
Actually what happened is that, very casually, the engine light came on around 3 days after I changed the belt, I scanned it and it threw an error that pointed to a bad solenoid. I did some research and several people told me that if I changed the belt, probably I pried over it, but later looking at the car, I did not pry over it. I removed the solenoid, cleaned it thoroughly, put it back, and the light went off. I guess it was just mere coincidence, but I left the warning just in case for other people.
Thanks anyway for replying!
@@ricardoleongarcia2887 good I'm glad to hear that.
I went trough 2 oil control valves because of this very reason. lol
@@DrivenDailyGaming If it is unsafe to pry it, how can we get it in place? I have seen other post about this with other people having problems. So just looking for the best way to do it. Thanks in advance.
On my 2008 1.3VVT-i Yaris (with A/C) the alternator is behind the engine, and the belt goes around the engine mount.
Thank you thank you!!
No problem at all hope it helped you.
Ya that blurry up close shot where your hand was mostly in the way was SO helpful
Thank you 🙏🏽
No problem at all, glad this helped out.
As you can see? All I’m seeing is the engine block.
Im gonna try to fix my car myself! Luckily my hands are pretty small 😂 🤞🏾
How did it go
Thanks.
Great video brotha. I am going to take a stab at this on my wife's 07' Yaris on Tuesday. I'll let you know how it goes if I don't die in the process. :)
ROFL! Thanks Bro, How'd It Go?
I actually knocked it out yesterday morning! Had to turn into a contortionist to put the damn thing back on. lol. But, I did it! Oh and of course the other belt was fine but it no longer squeaks on start up. Thanks again brotha for the video. Great job.
What belt does the yaris use. 4pk?
Brother I've changed the belt today.. For a second it did se em it went pretty smooth... After I'm done I turned the engine on and I started riding ma car after 5 minutes of driving I smelled a burning blastic coming out of it..... Do you think its the new belt... And what should I do...
Thanks in advance
Sorry for the late reply but did you maybe get the plastic too close to the crank or bolt? Or is the belt properly aligned?
thank you
the 14mm bolt on my yaris absolutely will not budge no matter what...not sure what to do.
Try and Spray some PB Blaster Onto the bolt and let it soak, then spray it again also make sure your are turning the counter clock wise to loosen the bolt. You may just need to use a longer Wrench/Ratchet to apply more pulling force. If anyone has changed it before someone may have over tightened it.
I had the same problem. I went out and bought a long breaker bar, at least 16". Squealed like a whore, but it came out.
Thanks for the video, helped me change my serpentine belt. I still have a squeak/screech on startup though, especially on cold starts. Any ideas? I marked where the top bolt was with the old belt and put it back there.
Noise Of its probably not tight enough, try tightening the belt a little more. Even with a new belt if it isn't tight enough it will still squeal. Glad I was of some help. I will be uploading more shortly. What kind of other how to's do you need?
Thanks, tightening helped quite a bit. There's a little noise now but much better... I would have guessed loosen initially.
A Yaris brake how to would be useful (not to dwell on the Yaris ha).
Noise Of lol I am about to do the brakes on this car also
Make sure it thigh on
A fix I found was to just turn the key into the on position a couple seconds and then turn the engine over. For whatever reason this fixed the squeal at startup for my daughters Toyota yaris.
😊😊
what's up everyone?
@peter davy yes it does
Small as car hard to work on it 🤣
Yay
We see nothing , bad angle
easy peezey... but not a job for big hands...lol