Dead Car Battery or Low Voltage Warnings? Diagnose Battery and Alternator
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- Опубликовано: 22 мар 2021
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Does your car or truck have a weak start, or it won't even crank? Do you have to jump start it frequently? Check engine or dash lights saying low battery? Electrical problems can be tricky to solve, but in this video, Andy gets you started with checking the battery and alternator, the two most common electrical problems in your car or truck!
Check out this playlist for more DIY diagnostics tips from Andy and the rest of the 1A Auto crew! • Driveway Diagnostics!
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/coU/
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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. 
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Charge the battery,if ya need to. Start the car,disconnect the battery if the car dies,it's the alternator.
Diagnosed about like I do when my daughter calls and says she needs a new battery. Battery voltage not running versus running is my first check as well. A good test for the alternator is to turn on the headlights when running and look for voltage drop. Back in my forklift mechanic days on night shift I always got the "bad alternator" jobs. There is no substitute for a battery load tester.
What is you opinion on the terminal protection spray I see the car in this video had it on the terminals. I personally like it but I here it both ways. If it’s going to save the connections from that harmful acid then why not use.
Last year I had to buy a new alternator for my 2010 4.0 explorer thanks to ford’s design where my radiator cap became faulty n just sent all the coolant into the return reservoir and flooded it thus spraying the alternator and then I gotta battery light
Could the wire coming from the alternator to the battery cause it to have a low voltage code if loosen?
Does that cause all warning lights on dash to be seen ? Airbag , esc , autohold is disabled or etc ?
I have a Nissan Amanda 2006 I have VDC light on I'm trying to see what I need to do
Mine's way beyond 5 yrs., I never think to check voltage running or not.
When I cut my car on after it has sat for a few hrs or overnight it is 11.3-11.6 immediately after being cut on but after a few seconds, it goes up to 13.6. Am I correct to assume that I need a new battery?
Remember you are a self-help channel. Explain why a voltmeter isn't a good tester in this instance. [Because it doesn't test the load conditions]. Explain with detail. After all, if detail is provided more purchases might occur.
+VidelicetMoi Thanks for the feedback!
Totally -- thanks
Hi there
My car alternator 130 Amp but I did change new one with 150 Amp .This good or not , but now code P0560 come up ! How to fix
My car 2012 Honda odyssey. Thanks
I recently upgraded my jeep with a 120 amp alternator, it was to fix the high pitch squealing noise that my mechanic confirmed was the old alternator going bad; I brought my own alternator & he installed, but $400 later, the problem persists.
What else could be the issue? It's a '94 Wrangler YJ & the noise happens pseudo randomly when going 40+ in 4th & 5th gear with the accelerator. I can replicate it at about 3000-3200 rpm sitting in my driveway. Noise seems to be coming from the passenger side in engine bay, which is why I thought it was the alternator.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Sounds like it could be any accessory pulley bearing
Hi, I have a 1994 XJ and, the voltage gauge has always read around 14.4-14.5 volts when driving, but the past couple weeks it's been showing 13.0-13.9 volts when driving. I've never seen it that low before in the 10+ years that I've owned it. I've checked the battery with my multimeter several times, including this morning with it running and all accessories on and my meter is routinely showing 14.35-14.37 volts with everything on and 14.45 volts with it running and all accessories off. Have these cluster voltage gauges been known to just randomly lose their accuracy all of a sudden, after so many years? Anything else I should be looking at, or should I assume everything is okay in the charging system? Thanks!
+LoneWolf Survival We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I recently gave someone a jump and their cars battery was sitting for at least two weeks after changing his alternator now my truck after giving the car a jump my battery voltage is fluctuating 12 to 14 volts simultaneously
My car runs 13.2 brand new alternator and battery after my car died while On the highway my battery has been dying recently but I did leave it sitting about 2 wks for repair’s it was dying every other day after fill charge I got another new battery it was running 12.7 with no power ran it tightened terminals put new ones on as well corrosion protection I turn my car on it ran 12.9 I fiddled with the alternator wires and it went up to 13.3 the. Dropped to a steady 13.23 my belt has also been squeaking idk if this is enough to charge It because keep in mind this is with nothing running I turned the lights on and it went to around 13 I’m not sure what to do any suggestions I’ve been doing repairs myself it’s a Kia Sportage 1997 4wd
+MCBRAXY We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My car alternator is putting out 11.9 volt is that bad?
Yes
Hi 1A Auto, Please help me 2012 Dodge Durango 5.7l Citadel AWD, I smelt burning and Alternator is burnt. Workshop changed the Alternator but still the system is not charging, low voltage 12.5 and Error B210D84. The wires and connections are fine and the battery is also new. Please save my life. Thanks
+Adil Rizwan Mughal We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Tests show good just needs charge but running a full test because 6 years old, TX heat, and the neg disconnect it ran no problem. It starts fine but once drive it can stall out. One reason people would never trust electric cars. Battery says good but dies immediately just like cordless tools. Full green but dies after 1 screw😂
This video sucked. You showed nothing about diagnosing it. You just replaced a part HOPING it will work.
Waste of money! All you needed was the regulator brushes(around 4-6$)!