It is a great recepie.I made almost close beer with S05 and cascade hopstand 80C. Best and tastiest beer I ever made. So simple, cheap and nice. Great channel.
I've been kind of "hop standing" for a few months, but I hadn't thought about dropping the temp first. The owner of my LHBS was saying that the only reason you lose floral/"juicy" flavor and aroma is because it escapes with the steam when your hops are subjected to a rolling boil. I've been adding the majority of my hops at flame out, putting the lid on the pot, and then waiting 20 minutes before I chill. When I remove the lid, I see some steam escape, so it makes me think I'm still losing flavor. I'm going to try your technique. Thanks for sharing!
The taste if fuller with a hop stand for sure. After a 15 minute stand I chill to 20°C and leave to stew like tea. To get the West Coast Aroma that you clearly love, Dry Hopping is required. Taste + Aroma = Flavour.
I remember reading that st Austell brewery regularly make an 80 degree whirlpool with a lot of hops. I made a recipe for admirals ale and it was amazing with a very smooth bitterness.
Fun outtake. I have become a fan of the hop stand. I often combine it with a hop shot for bittering. So, there is that bittering charge from hop resin combined with lots of hop flavor and aroma. I suppose it takes a bigger beer gravity wise to stand up to all of that, but the result is pretty darn good. (It's similar to the beer of mine that James taste at HomebrewCon but just with a smidge more gravity). Thanks for the vid.
Im on that '100% wheat beer vibe! The thing that brewing with wheat says is that not only a ferulic rest gives you better results for that! You should try doing a open fermentation (they said that it makes A LOT 4-vinyl-guaiacol), anyway i hope you guys see this! Thanks for your videos!
basicbrewing I'm finishing my brew master graduation next year and I've done this before! Read the book "brewing with wheat" it will be a great help guys!
Congrats! I've read that book and interviewed Stan Hieronymus on the audio podcast (BBR 3-18-10). Also be sure to check out his book on hops, and Brew Like a Monk is a must-read, too.
I've done many hopstand beers and find it makes for much better aroma (when adding a dry hop) and my pales and IPA's are more tasty. I find 20-30 minutes is all you need.
I recently did a hop stand only beer... No hops except for in the whir pool.. Interesting beer!! Sent it out to a brew lab for analysis.. Surprising result..
As long as you stay above 160° your risk of infection in pretty much nill. Ya'll need a shutoff for the hose where it goes into the chiller, one of the cheap $3 plastic ones works great!
I appreciate Steve's honesty when talking about the wheat beer. Not all beers can be a 10. I recently had a clunker. Brewed 10 gallons of English brown... didn't get a tight seal on one of the buckets. One beer tastes great... the other will be a drain pour. I have a feeling if you had your efficiency up, your 100% wheat beer would have scored higher marks with Steve. I'm wondering if your IBU's to malt ratio was off due to the gap issue.
The bitterness was fine because I was shooting for a hefe level. I think you're right - higher efficiency would have made for a more satisfying beer. Also, if the yeast character was more expressed, I think it would have been a winner. - James
What kind of brewhouse efficiency are you getting with these all-wheat beers? I brewed a Grodziskie, a Polish style with 100% oak smoked wheat as the grain bill, and I only got like 33% efficiency. Still a good beer, but much weaker than I was aiming for.
My efficiency was way low on this one, but I blame my mill gap. I've gotten much better efficiency on 100% wheat beers in the past. With BIAB, you can really mill aggressively without worrying about a stuck sparge. - James
Ditch the 30 minute addition, do a flame out or make an adjustment elsewhere to up the bitterness. 30 minute doesn't bring much to the beer in my opinion.
Check out our Basic Brewing Radio podcast from May 25, 2017. We did an experiment only adding hops at 60 min, 30 min, and flameout. Very interesting results. That's why I put the 30 min addition back into this recipe. - James
basicbrewing good episode. Couple of things. Steve mentioned building layers of flavour(I agree that's important), hops do not react in a linear fashion and so we shouldn't build recipes in a linear way. In this recipe the 30 minute addition would act closer to a 60 minute addition due to the whirlpool/stand, so a 15 minute addition would act much more like the one in your experiment. With my hop stand I add the flame out hops, let it drop naturally to 180f, then add more hops. If you are looking for more experiments to conduct may I suggest the following. Two beers, pale ales, 60 minute and flameout for both, with one of the beers having a 30 minute hops(I would target a similar ibu estimate) and see if there's a difference/preference. Keep up the good work.
Using Brew in a Bag, I mash in the total volume of water used for the brew (8 gallons). So, at the end of the mash, I remove the bag, squeeze it, and start the boil. - James
Thanks janes. So you don’t bother with a mash for alpha amalaze or a Sparge? Guess it seems to work for you so hard to change it. If you do 5gallon brews do you find this really shortens your brew day?
Hi guys. Again thanks for the lovely videos. They are amusing, informative and inspiring. I have a question about buying grains, particularly barley. Is it better for reasons of freshness and flavor to buy barley whole and mill it yourself or does it matter? In other words, is it like coffee or pepper that stays fresher for longer of it is left in it's whole state before being processed for consumption? I have a 3 hp stand mixer that can use a grain mill but is it worth my time to be making a mess in my kitchen or should I just buy pre-cracked barley?
Whole grain will stay fresher longer. I have a grain mill designed to mill for brewing purposes. If I buy grain in bulk, I'll mill it myself. Otherwise, I'm lucky to have access to a great local homebrew store (Steve's) that has a very good mill, so I'll have it milled there. I usually brew a few days after I buy my ingredients. Milled grain should be good for a few weeks if you keep it dry. - James
When I do Brew in a Bag, I don't sparge. I just add all the water needed for the brewing process at the beginning and mash in that. I do squeeze the bag to get as much wort out as possible. - James
Since you you were using your high gravity setup, for future couldn't you set the hop stand temperature you want during the chilling process, this would give you more room to turn the water off, letting the high gravity system turn on the heater to keep the wort from dipping below your hop stand temp?
That's a great idea. The Wort Hog EBC-130 has two modes: mash and boil. I could switch back over to the mash mode and set my hop stand temp. Then, if I overshoot, I could let it come back up to temp before adding the hops. This tip will come in handy in the winter when the tap water is much colder. Cheers! - James
I just feel great every time I watch you guys. And thirsty...
It is a great recepie.I made almost close beer with S05 and cascade hopstand 80C. Best and tastiest beer I ever made. So simple, cheap and nice. Great channel.
Cheers! - James
Nice video and good banter. Shows you guys really enjoy what you do 😁
I've been kind of "hop standing" for a few months, but I hadn't thought about dropping the temp first. The owner of my LHBS was saying that the only reason you lose floral/"juicy" flavor and aroma is because it escapes with the steam when your hops are subjected to a rolling boil. I've been adding the majority of my hops at flame out, putting the lid on the pot, and then waiting 20 minutes before I chill. When I remove the lid, I see some steam escape, so it makes me think I'm still losing flavor. I'm going to try your technique. Thanks for sharing!
The taste if fuller with a hop stand for sure. After a 15 minute stand I chill to 20°C and leave to stew like tea. To get the West Coast Aroma that you clearly love, Dry Hopping is required. Taste + Aroma = Flavour.
I remember reading that st Austell brewery regularly make an 80 degree whirlpool with a lot of hops.
I made a recipe for admirals ale and it was amazing with a very smooth bitterness.
Thanks again your channel and information as helped me a lot have even made some of your brews and turned out great. Thanks
Fun outtake. I have become a fan of the hop stand. I often combine it with a hop shot for bittering. So, there is that bittering charge from hop resin combined with lots of hop flavor and aroma. I suppose it takes a bigger beer gravity wise to stand up to all of that, but the result is pretty darn good. (It's similar to the beer of mine that James taste at HomebrewCon but just with a smidge more gravity). Thanks for the vid.
Cheers, Don! That was a tasty beer.
Im on that '100% wheat beer vibe!
The thing that brewing with wheat says is that not only a ferulic rest gives you better results for that! You should try doing a open fermentation (they said that it makes A LOT 4-vinyl-guaiacol), anyway i hope you guys see this!
Thanks for your videos!
Cheers! I'd also like to do a comparison between 100% wheat, 100% barley, and a 50-50 mix to compare the flavors, including a ferulic rest. - James
basicbrewing I'm finishing my brew master graduation next year and I've done this before! Read the book "brewing with wheat" it will be a great help guys!
Congrats! I've read that book and interviewed Stan Hieronymus on the audio podcast (BBR 3-18-10). Also be sure to check out his book on hops, and Brew Like a Monk is a must-read, too.
sounds like a great beer.
I've done many hopstand beers and find it makes for much better aroma (when adding a dry hop) and my pales and IPA's are more tasty. I find 20-30 minutes is all you need.
I recently did a hop stand only beer... No hops except for in the whir pool.. Interesting beer!! Sent it out to a brew lab for analysis.. Surprising result..
Would love to hear more. Can you shoot me an email? - James
basicbrewing I just so happen to have a video on the results! 😀
ruclips.net/video/Rl4eq4-G_Sw/видео.html
basicbrewing was a huge experiment...took 7 hours for the brewing.. What a long day.. But at least it was live with some of my subscribers
As long as you stay above 160° your risk of infection in pretty much nill. Ya'll need a shutoff for the hose where it goes into the chiller, one of the cheap $3 plastic ones works great!
I appreciate Steve's honesty when talking about the wheat beer. Not all beers can be a 10. I recently had a clunker. Brewed 10 gallons of English brown... didn't get a tight seal on one of the buckets. One beer tastes great... the other will be a drain pour. I have a feeling if you had your efficiency up, your 100% wheat beer would have scored higher marks with Steve. I'm wondering if your IBU's to malt ratio was off due to the gap issue.
The bitterness was fine because I was shooting for a hefe level. I think you're right - higher efficiency would have made for a more satisfying beer. Also, if the yeast character was more expressed, I think it would have been a winner. - James
Will give the 100% wheat a go ... Thanks for Sharing
LOL @ that pose.
How about a FWH and Hop Stand experimental brew session vs one of each a regular, FWH only, and Hop Stand only, and both together. Good Luck, Mike.
Hey, I'm doing that right now. Well FWH anyway, in about 20 minutes I will be doing the hop stand.
Great day to be brewing! Hoss
What kind of brewhouse efficiency are you getting with these all-wheat beers? I brewed a Grodziskie, a Polish style with 100% oak smoked wheat as the grain bill, and I only got like 33% efficiency. Still a good beer, but much weaker than I was aiming for.
My efficiency was way low on this one, but I blame my mill gap. I've gotten much better efficiency on 100% wheat beers in the past. With BIAB, you can really mill aggressively without worrying about a stuck sparge. - James
basicbrewing Any tricks for getting efficiency up? I'd like to try that Grodziskie again
Mill aggressively and stir often when using BIAB. - James
james could you write a complete recipe for this, i couldn't find the batch volume of this brew, appreciate it. George from Serbia
What do you use for temperature control during fermentation? Do you have any recommendations ?
Most of the time, I don't use temperature control, but when I want to, I have a kegerator that I control with an electronic controller. - James
Steve, rigor mortis is NOT covered by workers' compensation!
In fact, there is a stiff penalty. (I'll be here all week.)
Ditch the 30 minute addition, do a flame out or make an adjustment elsewhere to up the bitterness. 30 minute doesn't bring much to the beer in my opinion.
saintmoz I've stopped doing hop additions before flameout except for a bittering addition at 60 mins. It's a waste of hops.
Check out our Basic Brewing Radio podcast from May 25, 2017. We did an experiment only adding hops at 60 min, 30 min, and flameout. Very interesting results. That's why I put the 30 min addition back into this recipe. - James
basicbrewing good episode. Couple of things. Steve mentioned building layers of flavour(I agree that's important), hops do not react in a linear fashion and so we shouldn't build recipes in a linear way. In this recipe the 30 minute addition would act closer to a 60 minute addition due to the whirlpool/stand, so a 15 minute addition would act much more like the one in your experiment. With my hop stand I add the flame out hops, let it drop naturally to 180f, then add more hops.
If you are looking for more experiments to conduct may I suggest the following. Two beers, pale ales, 60 minute and flameout for both, with one of the beers having a 30 minute hops(I would target a similar ibu estimate) and see if there's a difference/preference.
Keep up the good work.
"It's got good head retention" haha, you could say that!
word we're lookin for is "Viscosity"
Do you have more chance to contaminate your worth if you take more time to chill?
There might be a slight elevation of risk, but if it's covered, I think you're okay. - James
Do you guys skip mashout/sparge I don’t hear you mention it typically?
Using Brew in a Bag, I mash in the total volume of water used for the brew (8 gallons). So, at the end of the mash, I remove the bag, squeeze it, and start the boil. - James
Thanks janes. So you don’t bother with a mash for alpha amalaze or a
Sparge? Guess it seems to work for you so hard to change it. If you do 5gallon brews do you find this really shortens your brew day?
@@larmckenna A single-temp mash works just fine. I don't think I'm ever going back to a standard mash tun. - James
Hi guys. Again thanks for the lovely videos. They are amusing, informative and inspiring. I have a question about buying grains, particularly barley. Is it better for reasons of freshness and flavor to buy barley whole and mill it yourself or does it matter? In other words, is it like coffee or pepper that stays fresher for longer of it is left in it's whole state before being processed for consumption? I have a 3 hp stand mixer that can use a grain mill but is it worth my time to be making a mess in my kitchen or should I just buy pre-cracked barley?
Whole grain will stay fresher longer. I have a grain mill designed to mill for brewing purposes. If I buy grain in bulk, I'll mill it myself. Otherwise, I'm lucky to have access to a great local homebrew store (Steve's) that has a very good mill, so I'll have it milled there. I usually brew a few days after I buy my ingredients. Milled grain should be good for a few weeks if you keep it dry. - James
James when you use the bag and after you hold it at the temperature and time do you sprague or is like a extract with specialty grains in a bag
When I do Brew in a Bag, I don't sparge. I just add all the water needed for the brewing process at the beginning and mash in that. I do squeeze the bag to get as much wort out as possible. - James
Since you you were using your high gravity setup, for future couldn't you set the hop stand temperature you want during the chilling process, this would give you more room to turn the water off, letting the high gravity system turn on the heater to keep the wort from dipping below your hop stand temp?
That's a great idea. The Wort Hog EBC-130 has two modes: mash and boil. I could switch back over to the mash mode and set my hop stand temp. Then, if I overshoot, I could let it come back up to temp before adding the hops. This tip will come in handy in the winter when the tap water is much colder. Cheers! - James
What is the batch size please ?
Simon Boughton 5 gallons
Are you guys heading to GABF next week in Denver?
Not this year.
is that sauerkraut making on your counter in the back?
Yes!
What would a 2 gallon batch recipe look like?
Smaller. :-)
Just scale down the ingredients, essentially.
Where the hell has Andy Sparks been?