like the way it doesnt dwell at the top and bottom and makes an exact hatch pattern ,and thefact that its actually not a verry big machine that can be stored pretty eazy (after some mods making the electronics in the back a bit flatter) i allso would love to see more about the building of it and the electronics ,
1. Glaze breakers, or whatever you call them, are one type of hones. 2. This is finishing, not geometry correction. Both processes are called honing. 3. The rpm are around 120. It reduces them only while changing direction. RPM can be as low as 10rpm, depending stones, oil an desired effect. The lower the rpm, the rougher the surface is. In fact, if I do it today, I would use a lower rpm, maybe half of what's in the video, but less number of strokes instead. 4. The cylinders are finished with a brush after honing. 5. Standart new oem rings and pistons ate used 6. 80000km later the engine still retains equal and maximum compression pressures and the oil consumption is next to none. Also, it passes the environmental tests like a new one. After all this is what this finish honing is made for. It had some minor scratches and some spots of shiny mirror like finish, typical for 200000km engine, but the geometry was in spec so no geometry correction was needed. Just new surface for new rings to work on.
If you went through all this to build that fantastic little machine WHY WHY WHY would you ever use a brake hone like that!!?? You need an actual cylinder hone like a Lisle or Sunnen head then you'd have something. All that spring hone will do is follow the contour of the cylinder which is not what you want.
I needed exactly this. The cylinders of this engine were with good geometry and within limits (0.01mm). They just had a minor scratches here and there which disappeared. This was only finishing without any geometry corrections. I've done a 600 grit ball-brush finishing after this. This was a turbo-diesel engine which I am running now for about 30000km. The oil remains transparent for more then 3000km after change, the oil consumption is somewhere near 30ml/1000km, and the compression pressure is around the upper limit (29.5 bar) with less then 0.5 bar difference between cylinders. I cannot ask for a better result. Lisle or Sunnen hone would need more massive machine with at lest 3 times more powerful spindle motor.
Ah ok now I understand I didn't know what prep work was done for the cylinders I thought you were just doing the whole job with that hone. I'm not an electronics guy, what would it take to put a kit together with just the electronics? Or put some plans together where someone can build a kit from scratch? I'm a machinist I can build the rest. Thank you for this video it's very informative.
like the way it doesnt dwell at the top and bottom and makes an exact hatch pattern ,and thefact that its actually not a verry big machine that can be stored pretty eazy (after some mods making the electronics in the back a bit flatter) i allso would love to see more about the building of it and the electronics ,
You need to make one of you building it!!! It would go viral
Nicely done! I'm very interested in the electronics you used for this
Can you share a link for the electronics used here??
Very cool, good job.
Glaze breakers are no good as hones. Plus the thing actually needs to rotate at 150-200 rpm not 3 or 4.
1. Glaze breakers, or whatever you call them, are one type of hones.
2. This is finishing, not geometry correction. Both processes are called honing.
3. The rpm are around 120. It reduces them only while changing direction. RPM can be as low as 10rpm, depending stones, oil an desired effect. The lower the rpm, the rougher the surface is. In fact, if I do it today, I would use a lower rpm, maybe half of what's in the video, but less number of strokes instead.
4. The cylinders are finished with a brush after honing.
5. Standart new oem rings and pistons ate used
6. 80000km later the engine still retains equal and maximum compression pressures and the oil consumption is next to none. Also, it passes the environmental tests like a new one. After all this is what this finish honing is made for. It had some minor scratches and some spots of shiny mirror like finish, typical for 200000km engine, but the geometry was in spec so no geometry correction was needed. Just new surface for new rings to work on.
Nice work
If you went through all this to build that fantastic little machine WHY WHY WHY would you ever use a brake hone like that!!?? You need an actual cylinder hone like a Lisle or Sunnen head then you'd have something. All that spring hone will do is follow the contour of the cylinder which is not what you want.
I needed exactly this. The cylinders of this engine were with good geometry and within limits (0.01mm). They just had a minor scratches here and there which disappeared. This was only finishing without any geometry corrections. I've done a 600 grit ball-brush finishing after this.
This was a turbo-diesel engine which I am running now for about 30000km. The oil remains transparent for more then 3000km after change, the oil consumption is somewhere near 30ml/1000km, and the compression pressure is around the upper limit (29.5 bar) with less then 0.5 bar difference between cylinders. I cannot ask for a better result.
Lisle or Sunnen hone would need more massive machine with at lest 3 times more powerful spindle motor.
Ah ok now I understand I didn't know what prep work was done for the cylinders I thought you were just doing the whole job with that hone.
I'm not an electronics guy, what would it take to put a kit together with just the electronics? Or put some plans together where someone can build a kit from scratch? I'm a machinist I can build the rest. Thank you for this video it's very informative.
Beat me to it!
Kolay gelsin bereketli olsun inşallah kardeşim bana hornama makinesi lazım yardımcı olursanız sevinirim motosiklet için
Kolay gelsin bereketli olsun inşallah kardeşim bana hornama makinesi lazım yardımcı olursanız sevinirim motosiklet için