The boot removal tool is an overstated requirement for this job. The part is not sold locally by anyone and who has time to fiddle with ordering it online? Overpriced for it's intended use as well. A simple pair of angled, needle nose pliers easily does the trick. Allot cheaper and readily available everywhere. Don't waste your money folks.
Rick Baker $15.99 on eBay and worth every cent. That tool also easily installs the cables back properly with a satisfying click. But you keep saving that money bud...
@@auxmike Actually Rick is correct, its not difficult at all to remove with needle-nosed or angles pliers or small hose pliers. Has nothing to do with "saving money", any half-wit can use common tools. But you keep "satisfying" yourself bud....
I didn’t have to remove the manifold. I bought a pair of spark plug pullers at advance for about $12 and was able to pull off the caps. At first I thought you had to twist them but all that was necessary was to pull. I disconnected the injectors(?) for easier access, but no big deal. The other great tip was a magnetic pick up tool, really made setting the plugs in and getting them out much easier. I used a medium and a long 3/8 wobble socket extenders, sometimes with a swivel head extender with long 16mm socket all from harbor freight, applied anti seize and tightened plugs to 22 ft lbs at the end
Brittany 1) 5mm Allen key 2) 6mm Allen key 3)ratchet 4)ratchet extension 5) 5/8 long socket 6) pliers (for hose removal) 7) screwdriver kickstand (optional lol) THAT'S IT! Although it's only 6 tools, I recommend you get a starter tool set. There are sets out there for 30 bucks that have everything you need an much more. I'm quick to respond if you have questions, but it's super easy
Icey embrace The only thing that really matters is that there are no leaks. If that intake is fully sealed, I'd say it's fine. Yes, a VW tech would tell you to use torque specs. I will say I've had zero problems after tightening by hand
Wanted to say THANK YOU for this great video. There are other ways to change the spark plugs, but after watching this video and considering the options that don't require removing the intake, I went your route. Since I was changing plug wires as well, it was the obvious choice. Thanks again!
I know this is a old comment but I wish someone would explain to me why removing the manifold is the obvious choice?? Looking into any maintenance manual for this vehicle it allots 2.5 hours of labor and removing the manifold takes at least that long so what we can conclude from this is that VW never intended for it to be removed for a plug job. 2.5 hours of labor is talking about just removing and replacing the plugs.
I just finished this job 10 min ago. One should clean the area around the plugs before taking them out. You do not want dirt in the cylinders! No need to remove anything.. A u joint for the ratchet is helpful on number 2. A good set f big needle nose pliers is handy too! So if you are inexperienced, or don't have proper tools, pulling the intake manifold will make life easier. I would say it's a 45 min job without pulling the manifold; that includes cleaning up w compressed air etc....
You do not have to remove the intake manifold to replace the spark plugs they are slanted just pull the boots off and remove them, very easy I just replaced mine. I used a coat hanger and bent the end to make a hook that will fit the spark plug wire ends ( they have little wings on them) and just pull off the boot, very easy and fast a bit to get the boots back on but not bad at all.
Sorry for the slow response Bobby. It's really was to replace the wires. You push them on the tops of the spark plugs and they snap right on. The other side of the wires connect to your coil pack. Your coil pack is a little black box on the bottom front of your engine. It's easily accessible and you can just follow your spark plug wires to find it. The wires also easily snap on to the coil pack. In summary, it's very easy to connect wires. Snap the wires on top of your spark plugs, and then route them down and snap them on your coil pack.
You're welcome. Hope I'm not too late, but I used: NGK (7968) PZFR5D-11 Laser Platinum Spark Plug and NGK (57021) VWC039 Spark Plug Wire Set and CTA Tools 3055 VW/Audi Spark Plug Cable Tool All from amazon - just copy and paste the descriptions
Informative video. Saved me with the tip re: 2 -5mm Allen bolts in the middle of intake manifold. I thought I was going crazy haha. You don't give yourself enough credit, though, as you are; in fact, mechanically inclined. Take care.
Do you also need to replace the ignition coil pack along with spark plugs/wire replacement? My coil packs has at least another 70000 miles life left but my plugs and wire are getting rough idle because I live in a heavy moisture/raining region.
Removing the manifold was giving me some issues. My buddy and I decided not to, and we were still able to do it, but WHAT A PAIN...any tips on how to effectively lift up the manifold? We unscrewed all the bolts, but it wasn't budging.
A few questions: We followed the instructions and it worked great. The car started up right away. It has a lot more power and sounds great. While I was tightening the rear left bolt on the back of the air intake manifold I didn't realize that the bolt has a slight offset even when it is all the way tight. I ended up breaking the aluminum threaded hole. So... 1. Is this a safety issue or is this just an extra bolt? 2. Can you do a video where you replace the air intake manifold? 3. We tightened the spark plugs as tight as we could get them with a single hand. Is it easy to overtighten/dangerous them?
you should be great regarding the spark plugs. I did them almost max (hand tight). The main thing I was getting at was not to cross-thread/strip the spark plugs. I'm sure you're fine. Regarding the intake manifold, it's really easy! it's just those 4 bolts (two on top, two on back). The main concern is making sure it's all air tight when you reinstall it. Don't lose the intake manifold gasket, and if you're worried about it sealing later, I'd put some High-Temp rtv sealant along the bottom of the manifold before you sandwich it down and retighten the four bolts. You should be fine!
the only thing that really matters is that it's sealed. if too much air sucks through the intake manifold, the car will stall on idle (you'll know immediately). if it idles, you're gravy!
How hard is it to replace the old wires for the spark plugs? I want to buy the whole amazon deal like you had mentioned in previous comments, but I do not know how to replace the wires.
+MEAlstonIII You should definitely replace the upper and lower intake gaskets. It's good practice to replace a gasket whenever you remove a part that has one. I was also a little surprised there were no torque specs mentioned for the intake manifold bolts nor the spark plugs themselves... we'll see if it works out without them.
Hi great video! I have a question if my car hesitates during acceleration, like you can feel it jumping and pulling back does that mean it's time to change the spark plugs?
Not necessarily. It could a number of things. Bad coil pack, bad MAF, bad fuel injectors, etc.... Your best bet is to take it to a shop and have them pull the code for your check engine light.
Peter Alusha had the same problem with mine, if I understand what you mean, mine, at stead throttle would act like I was flooring it, and then die off and jumped around alot especially if it was cold, so bad that a few times I lost all throttle response it wouldn't rev at all, had to shut it off and restart it, but anyway, it was the maf sensor for me, replaced that and it's running good now 👍
+marvinthemartian00 Yes I did. LEVERAGE BABY! Slap a pipe over the "handle" of your allen wrench to give it a longer handle. This greatly increases leverage and makes it infinitely easier.
+marvinthemartian00 get a short 6mm allen key. They are really tough. Be sure to put WD40 on them when you put them back in. They are just a little corroded.
You did say you're not mechanically inclined so I'll give you that however, there is absolutely no need to remove the intake manifold. Now you're making another expense (gasket) and an unnecessary step. Simply using a good swivel socket adapter on your spark plug socket will do. Basic tools.
Personally I just got the right spark plugs and directly installed them -- no calibration. The gaps on the sparkplugs looked accurate and uniform so I just put them straight in
Strictly speaking you don't have to remove the manifold because the spark plugs are angled to be accessible. Especially if you have the boot puller. See this video: ruclips.net/video/uj9jQpG-kI4/видео.html
Thanks for the video. Do you have a diagram of what wires go where? I am taking them off one by one and replacing them but I bought this vehicle second hand and I want to make sure the person that had it before was correct as the plugs/wires went bad after 15k or so miles. A simple diagram that i can print out when I change everything out tonight would be ideal. If you don't have it I'll just go with how it's already set up.
I have no diagram but they all route to the coil pack (little black box). Just name your wires "1,2,3,4" and remember their clip in position on the coil pack
although many people will say no, the answer is yes. you can't access spark plugs 2 and 3 without lifting the manifold. if anybody disagrees, they can make their own video and show me otherwise :)
Absolutely not. I do it all the time. I use a universal joint attached to an extension bar. There are plenty of other videos that have been posted (by certified mechanics) demonstrating this technique.
+Sammy Laskowicz the coil pack is pretty easy. You have to remove three 5mm bolts. These wires should work. You also need to remove 3 6mm bolts that fasten the air pump to the lower air intake manifold. Having done all this I think you probably can replace all the plugs and wires without pulling up the manifold. Try that first. Its really tricky to remove and I broke the bolt of the back left.
The plug wires aren't that hard to remove. If you don't care about your old wires you can just yank on them like hell. The removal tool is mostly if you want to re use your existing wires. If you yank on the existing wires, you'll break the 90 degree elbow on them.
Capt i am a certified vw mechanic i use a universal 3/8 joint and long extension and i remove them all the time also a magnet comes in handy to set the plugs in the holes before screwing them in
Darielle Huntley a tune up its only needed when the car run really rough usually replacing sparkplug,fuel filter,air filter and your basic oil change will have a great impact on your cars performance also replacing the spark plug wires cus many times thet might look good on the outside but could have internal damage somewhere to the point that it could also trigger a misfire
While I appreciate your video, had this been my car (I have a Jetta and my 2 daughters each have one) I would have handled it differently. First, there's no reason to remove the manifold. It might make access easier however on the flip side, you have to deal with removing and re-installing the manifold. Your plugs looked fine to me. I would have cleaned them up on my wire wheel, re-gapped them, and re-installed them. Speaking of re-installing them, I would have applied anti-seize to the threads. I'd be willing to bet that our 3 Jettas run as good as yours and I didn't have to remove any manifolds to achieve this. Out of pocket expense amounted to a little anti-seize grease as opposed to a new set of plugs.
Many Spark Plugs today will simply break if you touch the electrode center conductor. Irdium/Platinum. Do not wire wheel them. OK for Copper based plugs, in a pinch. They are sold as non gap-able, best to never touch them. If taking off the wires and removing plugs, simply spend the $24 for a new set. Yes, his plug did not appear fouled, color was not bad. Definitely apply Anti Seize. best part of this video was comments on whether or not to remove the Intake Manifold. Both answers have their value.
pittsburgh volvo tuners I've heard many people say this. How the heck to you get access to plugs 2 and 3 with simple tools without removing the manifold?
Bruce Balistreri you do need a swivel knuckle,and several 3" extensions linked together...i would consider that simple tools. available where you buy mechanics tools or autoparts. the brand of mine is Blackhawk and its really tough. i found it harder to actually get that metal boot off. long nose pliers wd 40 and patience
You don't need to remove the entire intake manifold! You can use a swivel socket for 2 and 3 and 1 and 4 have complete clearance. Please don't take the entire day doing plugs and wires when you can BUY the right tools and do it faster and cheaper. You have the silly nearly useless tool for the plug wires but don't have a swivel socket laying around? I don't want to re-gasket something that don't need to come off in the first place unless it is already leaking! 🤔
WY YOU REMOVE THE INTAKE ? YOU ARE JUST MAKING PPL FUCKING WITH A VERY BIG MESS BY TAKING THE MANIFOLD LIKE THAT AND DONT REPLACE THE GASKET WTFK DUDE SERIOUSLY
I AM STUCK ON THIS QUESTION. I DID GOOGLE...there is gapping options and either bosch or ngk. I have the 2.0 manual wolfsburg edition and it tends to flip flop in components...still at a loss. I already ordered the googled wires and they were WRONG.
9 years later and this video is still helping people, than you
Nice work. Even though it’s true you don’t have to remove the manifold, you went for it and were successful. Good job!
The boot removal tool is an overstated requirement for this job. The part is not sold locally by anyone and who has time to fiddle with ordering it online? Overpriced for it's intended use as well. A simple pair of angled, needle nose pliers easily does the trick. Allot cheaper and readily available everywhere. Don't waste your money folks.
Rick Baker $15.99 on eBay and worth every cent. That tool also easily installs the cables back properly with a satisfying click.
But you keep saving that money bud...
@@auxmike Actually Rick is correct, its not difficult at all to remove with needle-nosed or angles pliers or small hose pliers. Has nothing to do with "saving money", any half-wit can use common tools. But you keep "satisfying" yourself bud....
Shawn Hawley lol, he had to remove the whole intake his way!
I didn’t. Just used the special tool...
I didn’t have to remove the manifold. I bought a pair of spark plug pullers at advance for about $12 and was able to pull off the caps. At first I thought you had to twist them but all that was necessary was to pull. I disconnected the injectors(?) for easier access, but no big deal. The other great tip was a magnetic pick up tool, really made setting the plugs in and getting them out much easier.
I used a medium and a long 3/8 wobble socket extenders, sometimes with a swivel head extender with long 16mm socket all from harbor freight, applied anti seize and tightened plugs to 22 ft lbs at the end
Brittany
1) 5mm Allen key
2) 6mm Allen key
3)ratchet
4)ratchet extension
5) 5/8 long socket
6) pliers (for hose removal)
7) screwdriver kickstand (optional lol)
THAT'S IT! Although it's only 6 tools, I recommend you get a starter tool set. There are sets out there for 30 bucks that have everything you need an much more.
I'm quick to respond if you have questions, but it's super easy
Won't the pliers damage the wires? Sorry I'm just wondering cause I need to know how to change my car's spark plugs it really needs them changed
the vacuum hoses have small metal clamps on them. I use the pliers on the clamps - not the hose itself.
Bruce Balistreri don't you need a torque wrench? the intake manifold bolts should be 15flbs and the plugs at 22ftlbs.
Icey embrace
The only thing that really matters is that there are no leaks. If that intake is fully sealed, I'd say it's fine.
Yes, a VW tech would tell you to use torque specs.
I will say I've had zero problems after tightening by hand
Wanted to say THANK YOU for this great video. There are other ways to change the spark plugs, but after watching this video and considering the options that don't require removing the intake, I went your route. Since I was changing plug wires as well, it was the obvious choice. Thanks again!
I know this is a old comment but I wish someone would explain to me why removing the manifold is the obvious choice?? Looking into any maintenance manual for this vehicle it allots 2.5 hours of labor and removing the manifold takes at least that long so what we can conclude from this is that VW never intended for it to be removed for a plug job. 2.5 hours of labor is talking about just removing and replacing the plugs.
@@HardWhereHero Removing the manifold was quick and easy -- certainly not 2.5 hours! 🤷♂
The me for posting this video, you saved me a lot of money.
I just finished this job 10 min ago. One should clean the area around the plugs before taking them out. You do not want dirt in the cylinders! No need to remove anything.. A u joint for the ratchet is helpful on number 2. A good set f big needle nose pliers is handy too! So if you are inexperienced, or don't have proper tools, pulling the intake manifold will make life easier. I would say it's a 45 min job without pulling the manifold; that includes cleaning up w compressed air etc....
You do not have to remove the intake manifold to replace the spark plugs they are slanted just pull the boots off and remove them, very easy I just replaced mine. I used a coat hanger and bent the end to make a hook that will fit the spark plug wire ends ( they have little wings on them) and just pull off the boot, very easy and fast a bit to get the boots back on but not bad at all.
Sorry for the slow response Bobby.
It's really was to replace the wires. You push them on the tops of the spark plugs and they snap right on.
The other side of the wires connect to your coil pack. Your coil pack is a little black box on the bottom front of your engine. It's easily accessible and you can just follow your spark plug wires to find it. The wires also easily snap on to the coil pack.
In summary, it's very easy to connect wires. Snap the wires on top of your spark plugs, and then route them down and snap them on your coil pack.
You're welcome.
Hope I'm not too late, but I used:
NGK (7968) PZFR5D-11 Laser Platinum Spark Plug
and
NGK (57021) VWC039 Spark Plug Wire Set
and
CTA Tools 3055 VW/Audi Spark Plug Cable Tool
All from amazon - just copy and paste the descriptions
Informative video. Saved me with the tip re: 2 -5mm Allen bolts in the middle of intake manifold. I thought I was going crazy haha.
You don't give yourself enough credit, though, as you are; in fact, mechanically inclined.
Take care.
thanks man! means a lot
Do you also need to replace the ignition coil pack along with spark plugs/wire replacement? My coil packs has at least another 70000 miles life left but my plugs and wire are getting rough idle because I live in a heavy moisture/raining region.
What's the name of the tool to pull the wires
Thank you other than that
Removing the manifold was giving me some issues. My buddy and I decided not to, and we were still able to do it, but WHAT A PAIN...any tips on how to effectively lift up the manifold? We unscrewed all the bolts, but it wasn't budging.
A few questions:
We followed the instructions and it worked great. The car started up right away. It has a lot more power and sounds great. While I was tightening the rear left bolt on the back of the air intake manifold I didn't realize that the bolt has a slight offset even when it is all the way tight. I ended up breaking the aluminum threaded hole. So...
1. Is this a safety issue or is this just an extra bolt?
2. Can you do a video where you replace the air intake manifold?
3. We tightened the spark plugs as tight as we could get them with a single hand. Is it easy to overtighten/dangerous them?
you should be great regarding the spark plugs. I did them almost max (hand tight). The main thing I was getting at was not to cross-thread/strip the spark plugs. I'm sure you're fine.
Regarding the intake manifold, it's really easy! it's just those 4 bolts (two on top, two on back). The main concern is making sure it's all air tight when you reinstall it.
Don't lose the intake manifold gasket, and if you're worried about it sealing later, I'd put some High-Temp rtv sealant along the bottom of the manifold before you sandwich it down and retighten the four bolts.
You should be fine!
the only thing that really matters is that it's sealed. if too much air sucks through the intake manifold, the car will stall on idle (you'll know immediately).
if it idles, you're gravy!
Where do you get that remover at?.
How hard is it to replace the old wires for the spark plugs? I want to buy the whole amazon deal like you had mentioned in previous comments, but I do not know how to replace the wires.
if your engine misfires i suggest looking at the spk plug wires at night and see if you see anything arcing to ground.
went to O'Reilly they set me up with Autolite iridium XP spark plugs. any comments on the performance of these or should I have used all NGK
Thanks so much for the video. What are the stock spark plugs for this engine?
Do the plug wires just snap back on the spark plugs or do you need the tool to put them back on?
Thanks for putting this information out there for us. Good video!
can you please put a link to the spark plugs on amazon. also will it work on my 2002 golf 2.0L gas engine?
Did you have to replace the intake gaskets? And what was the torque specs for the manifold bolts when you put it back in place..??
+MEAlstonIII You should definitely replace the upper and lower intake gaskets. It's good practice to replace a gasket whenever you remove a part that has one. I was also a little surprised there were no torque specs mentioned for the intake manifold bolts nor the spark plugs themselves... we'll see if it works out without them.
Hi great video! I have a question if my car hesitates during acceleration, like you can feel it jumping and pulling back does that mean it's time to change the spark plugs?
Not necessarily. It could a number of things. Bad coil pack, bad MAF, bad fuel injectors, etc.... Your best bet is to take it to a shop and have them pull the code for your check engine light.
Peter Alusha had the same problem with mine, if I understand what you mean, mine, at stead throttle would act like I was flooring it, and then die off and jumped around alot especially if it was cold, so bad that a few times I lost all throttle response it wouldn't rev at all, had to shut it off and restart it, but anyway, it was the maf sensor for me, replaced that and it's running good now 👍
Did you have any trouble with the 6mm hex nuts in the back? i can't get my to break loose
+marvinthemartian00
Yes I did. LEVERAGE BABY! Slap a pipe over the "handle" of your allen wrench to give it a longer handle. This greatly increases leverage and makes it infinitely easier.
+marvinthemartian00 get a short 6mm allen key. They are really tough. Be sure to put WD40 on them when you put them back in. They are just a little corroded.
You did say you're not mechanically inclined so I'll give you that however, there is absolutely no need to remove the intake manifold. Now you're making another expense (gasket) and an unnecessary step. Simply using a good swivel socket adapter on your spark plug socket will do. Basic tools.
Post a video then, let’s see it. I have the same car, the intake needs to come off.
Sure, it's "possible", but a hudge pain to not take off the intake manifold. Also, the VW mechanics manual suggests you do.
I heard you have to calibrate the sparkplugs on VW how is that done? Idk.
Personally I just got the right spark plugs and directly installed them -- no calibration. The gaps on the sparkplugs looked accurate and uniform so I just put them straight in
what's the name of the tool you used to remove the wires?
I can't freaking get my screws back on. What do you recommend?
Strictly speaking you don't have to remove the manifold because the spark plugs are angled to be accessible. Especially if you have the boot puller. See this video:
ruclips.net/video/uj9jQpG-kI4/видео.html
Thanks for the video. Do you have a diagram of what wires go where? I am taking them off one by one and replacing them but I bought this vehicle second hand and I want to make sure the person that had it before was correct as the plugs/wires went bad after 15k or so miles. A simple diagram that i can print out when I change everything out tonight would be ideal. If you don't have it I'll just go with how it's already set up.
I have no diagram but they all route to the coil pack (little black box). Just name your wires "1,2,3,4" and remember their clip in position on the coil pack
Yes ,got that part but how do they go on the coil pack , 4 goes to one goes to 3 to two, 2to three and does one go to four
hey can you give a list of tools you used, thanks
did you have to remove your secondary air pump to put the new wires in?
Yes. It's easy to do.
What was your toque at?
haw replace fuel presher regolator?
Thanks a lot man !
Do you have to take off manifold to change out wires?
although many people will say no, the answer is yes. you can't access spark plugs 2 and 3 without lifting the manifold.
if anybody disagrees, they can make their own video and show me otherwise :)
Absolutely not. I do it all the time. I use a universal joint attached to an extension bar. There are plenty of other videos that have been posted (by certified mechanics) demonstrating this technique.
Where can i get the key to remove the cables?
Peter, I would say spark plugs are probably the reason. change them!it's a cheap fix and you need to do it anyways. that's a typical symptom though
Good job bro
can you do a video for replacing the coil pack and wires.
+Sammy Laskowicz the coil pack is pretty easy. You have to remove three 5mm bolts. These wires should work. You also need to remove 3 6mm bolts that fasten the air pump to the lower air intake manifold.
Having done all this I think you probably can replace all the plugs and wires without pulling up the manifold. Try that first. Its really tricky to remove and I broke the bolt of the back left.
You just firmly press them on top of the plugs and you should feel them fasten in. No tool required
Thank you
The plug wires aren't that hard to remove. If you don't care about your old wires you can just yank on them like hell.
The removal tool is mostly if you want to re use your existing wires.
If you yank on the existing wires, you'll break the 90 degree elbow on them.
intake does not need to removed to do spark plugs
Capt i am a certified vw mechanic i use a universal 3/8 joint and long extension and i remove them all the time also a magnet comes in handy to set the plugs in the holes before screwing them in
+Bradley Gross Yeah but if you don't have a long enough extension it's impossible to remove the spark plugs without removing the intake
Bradley Gross Jr Hi what all parts do you need for a tune up on a 2004 VW Jetta 2.0 engine and how many of the parts do you need?
Darielle Huntley a tune up its only needed when the car run really rough usually replacing sparkplug,fuel filter,air filter and your basic oil change will have a great impact on your cars performance also replacing the spark plug wires cus many times thet might look good on the outside but could have internal damage somewhere to the point that it could also trigger a misfire
do you have a video on how to do it your way?
Hate to tell you now but you didn't need to pull the intake manifold. Just a straight extension and 5/8 will get them all swapped in minutes.
I need help with wires sequence
What about gaping the spark plugs?....
Antique Mascara
The spark plugs were 1/16 gap. You can always check the gap with a gapping tool, but I personally find this to be an unnecessary step!
Thank you.
Atta boy
While I appreciate your video, had this been my car (I have a Jetta and my 2 daughters each have one) I would have handled it differently. First, there's no reason to remove the manifold. It might make access easier however on the flip side, you have to deal with removing and re-installing the manifold. Your plugs looked fine to me. I would have cleaned them up on my wire wheel, re-gapped them, and re-installed them. Speaking of re-installing them, I would have applied anti-seize to the threads. I'd be willing to bet that our 3 Jettas run as good as yours and I didn't have to remove any manifolds to achieve this. Out of pocket expense amounted to a little anti-seize grease as opposed to a new set of plugs.
Many Spark Plugs today will simply break if you touch the electrode center conductor. Irdium/Platinum. Do not wire wheel them. OK for Copper based plugs, in a pinch. They are sold as non gap-able, best to never touch them. If taking off the wires and removing plugs, simply spend the $24 for a new set. Yes, his plug did not appear fouled, color was not bad. Definitely apply Anti Seize. best part of this video was comments on whether or not to remove the Intake Manifold. Both answers have their value.
intake manifold removal NOT Necessary.
pittsburgh volvo tuners I've heard many people say this. How the heck to you get access to plugs 2 and 3 with simple tools without removing the manifold?
Bruce Balistreri you do need a swivel knuckle,and several 3" extensions linked together...i would consider that simple tools. available where you buy mechanics tools or autoparts. the brand of mine is Blackhawk and its really tough. i found it harder to actually get that metal boot off. long nose pliers wd 40 and patience
Yep, long nose pliers do it every time. It requires patience and finesse.
In fact, I just replaced both the plugs and wires today in under an hour without removing the manifold.
i use a small hose to remove them spakplugs
I new the manifold had to come off dam it
You don't need to remove the entire intake manifold! You can use a swivel socket for 2 and 3 and 1 and 4 have complete clearance. Please don't take the entire day doing plugs and wires when you can BUY the right tools and do it faster and cheaper. You have the silly nearly useless tool for the plug wires but don't have a swivel socket laying around? I don't want to re-gasket something that don't need to come off in the first place unless it is already leaking! 🤔
You forgot to GAP your spark-plugs ..yo
5/8ths ≠16mm
Was your camera on acid ,I cant watch this
this is not as easy as it looks people
WY YOU REMOVE THE INTAKE ? YOU ARE JUST MAKING PPL FUCKING WITH A VERY BIG MESS BY TAKING THE MANIFOLD LIKE THAT AND DONT REPLACE THE GASKET WTFK DUDE SERIOUSLY
1) Caps Lock not required
2) Profanity not required
3) Attitude not required
4) My way works. feel free to make your own video :)
Ll0l
lmao dub kid. skipped the most important part of this tutorial. Removing the intake id say is the harder part on this job...
What a nasty thing to say to a stranger. Hope you're doing better today than you were a year ago when you wrote this
Where do you get that remover at?.
Thanks so much for the video. What are the stock spark plugs for this engine?
Don't mean to be an ass, but the time it took you to write that, you could have easily found the answer with a quick google search.
I AM STUCK ON THIS QUESTION. I DID GOOGLE...there is gapping options and either bosch or ngk. I have the 2.0 manual wolfsburg edition and it tends to flip flop in components...still at a loss. I already ordered the googled wires and they were WRONG.