Thanks for the video. In the past, I used a pipe wrench to loosen/tighten the fittings like you did, but found out a Ford wrench works even better. They fit tighter and don't have the sharp teeth in the jaws, which tends to dig into the bronze if the nut is tight and/or corroded. They also work on other fittings with large sizes, such as thru-hulls and prop nuts. I found your channel recently and have been enjoying your videos quite a bit. I look forward to the next one.
Les, I have proper wrenches on the boat. I made this video with the tools I had at home. I am glad you enjoy my videos. I will have more boat videos coming soon since Spring boat work season is just around the corner (after we get through the snow storm we are having tonight and tomorrow). I actually put the snow plow on the truck this afternoon.
I'm sorry to hear you're still dealing with snow there. Luckily, Spring and warm weather arrived here in SW Missouri about ten minutes before my tolerance for Winter officially ended.
@@lesb3481 I have been ready for the snow to be over for several years. I can do without it. We had a low snow year this year - only 56", not counting tonight through Wednesday..
Great tutorial on the stuffing box, most people don't go into much detail. I haven't tried any, but there is a company that makes the packing that is graphite based I believe. I could see the merits of that for sure.
@@SOLDOZER that depends on the kind of packing. Yes traditional flax is tightened until it drips a couple of times a minute when the shaft is turning. The water provides both cooling and lubrication. However, the teflon impregnated carbon doesn't need to drip. The carbon and teflon provide all the lubrication that is needed and they are good enough thermal conductors that the stuffing box stays cool.
A GOOD TIP IF YOU HAVE TO MUCH WATER COMING IN THE BOAT; Roll up a cigar size with play doh, then roll it with saran rap. Go in the water and stuff it between the shaft and the inlet of the opening. That will slow down the water from coming in the boat.
Friction depends a lot on the type of packing. I use a teflon loading packing which should give considerably less friction than the traditional flax packing. That said, this sort of shaft seal is certainly higher friction than a dripless seal. However, that is offset by the near zero maintenance of the traditional packing of this type - you just tighten the packing nut if it is leaking more than you like.
Thank you for this clear and concise tutorial - much appreciated!
You are very welcome.
Thanks for the video. Internet is great when you can find such useful videos like this. Thanks again.
You are welcome.
Thank you so much for this video. Just fixed mine myself thanks to you 👍🏼
Glad to be able to help out. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. In the past, I used a pipe wrench to loosen/tighten the fittings like you did, but found out a Ford wrench works even better. They fit tighter and don't have the sharp teeth in the jaws, which tends to dig into the bronze if the nut is tight and/or corroded. They also work on other fittings with large sizes, such as thru-hulls and prop nuts. I found your channel recently and have been enjoying your videos quite a bit. I look forward to the next one.
Les, I have proper wrenches on the boat. I made this video with the tools I had at home. I am glad you enjoy my videos. I will have more boat videos coming soon since Spring boat work season is just around the corner (after we get through the snow storm we are having tonight and tomorrow). I actually put the snow plow on the truck this afternoon.
I'm sorry to hear you're still dealing with snow there. Luckily, Spring and warm weather arrived here in SW Missouri about ten minutes before my tolerance for Winter officially ended.
@@lesb3481 I have been ready for the snow to be over for several years. I can do without it. We had a low snow year this year - only 56", not counting tonight through Wednesday..
Thanks very much for the video. Please position the camera so that your hands are not in the way of the viewer.
hope it com more off this nice i learn must
I hope you found it informative.
Thanks man! What I was looking for!
Glad to be of assistance.
Thank you...exactly what I needed to know.
You are very welcome.
Excellent explanation, thank you a lot!
You are very welcome
Thank you Todd. Very helpful.
You are very welcome. I did leave out the part that on a sailboat you are often effectively standing on your head when repacking a stuffing box.
Very informative, thank you!
Glad you found it helpful.
Thank you Todd - great info!
You are welcome.
Great tutorial on the stuffing box, most people don't go into much detail. I haven't tried any, but there is a company that makes the packing that is graphite based I believe. I could see the merits of that for sure.
I have used the graphite packing. It works very well with no dripping. Thanks for the kind words.
@@todddunn945 Packing is supposed to drip.
@@SOLDOZER that depends on the kind of packing. Yes traditional flax is tightened until it drips a couple of times a minute when the shaft is turning. The water provides both cooling and lubrication. However, the teflon impregnated carbon doesn't need to drip. The carbon and teflon provide all the lubrication that is needed and they are good enough thermal conductors that the stuffing box stays cool.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us all.
You are very welcome.
Missed this one somehow, glad I caught it.
Interesting!
Thanks for that information.
Glad you enjoyed it.
A GOOD TIP IF YOU HAVE TO MUCH WATER COMING IN THE BOAT; Roll up a cigar size with play doh, then roll it with saran rap. Go in the water and stuff it between the shaft and the inlet of the opening. That will slow down the water from coming in the boat.
Or you can stuff a rag in. Thanks for the suggestion.
Exellent video thankyou
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Are there a lot of friction losses from this method?
Friction depends a lot on the type of packing. I use a teflon loading packing which should give considerably less friction than the traditional flax packing. That said, this sort of shaft seal is certainly higher friction than a dripless seal. However, that is offset by the near zero maintenance of the traditional packing of this type - you just tighten the packing nut if it is leaking more than you like.
@@todddunn945 Sounds good. Thanks.
Thank you!!!