The best maintenance tip do not put one of these in your house. They constantly break down all the time between the pump, three-way valve and pressure sensor that always fail. Never had so many problems with units until high-efficiency came out. Cast-iron boilers far superior and will last 2 to 3 times as long as a high efficient boiler and without the headaches.
Great video man. I service and install Navien as well. You did some good work, I use my channel lock pliers backwards also when they don't fight the right way.
The big flathead slot on the front of the pump behind the yellow sticker.inside the unit..turn that to bleed the air out..turn it left but not all the way out..youll hear the air comeing out..once it spits water consistently your good...probably had an air gap and pump had nothing to pump.so it overheated..good videos.
I was wondering if the expansion tank was bad. I noticed once the boiler was coming up to temp the pressure getting really close to 30. I think 27.2 was the last in video. I’ve had a few of these go through a lot of expansion tanks. On a few ended up being the Ph was way off. Luckily Navien is awesome and while the homeowner had to pay to filter the water. They came through and supplied a new boiler. Definitely check the Ph on unit if expansion keeps blowing. 😎👍🏻
What is the purpose of the boiler having it's own internal heating system water feed if there is also another feed directly into the system from the pressure reducing valve? Wouldn't these 2 feeds basically do the same thing? With all of those electronics in that boiler it might not be a bad idea to have it plugged into a surge protector too.
they'd rather you call tech support 900 times, not be able to service it, then have 3+ other companies and top technicians called, then end up replacing it anyway.after some magical month's long, (warranty is voided) circle-jerk-fudge-fest, whilst you and home freezes and/or cannot shower :))) yet they wonder why some of us are so salty and want to get rid of them all...... from the top down ;)
That big yellow snake is in your way haha that's one lazy way to leave the gas line. I hope you can tidy that up in the future. I've been saying it for ages about the magnetic filter and everyone kept saying there was no need because its copper base board. And the pumps are steel etc and the Components in the boiler are so fine they can easily block up. In Ireland and the uk you will not see a gas combi or system boiler without one. Magnetic filters have a massive market here.
I had the same error code. unit reached 200*. purged the unit and the internal pump drain valve. changed a dhw blown expansion tank. took 10 min. to purge air and ran fine. opened a bathroom faucet and air blew out hard-the real problem- slow leak on the dhw supply line above drywall ceiling. Thanks for the tips could not find an error code 001
Love how everything with these units are designed to be repaired by people with a three year olds hands... maybe I'll be blessed with acrodysostosis to make the repair go swimmingly...
I hate tell this but.. Plumbing is simple needs to be kept simple. Tanked water heater / gas or electric very reliable. Don't want to sell a product I don't believe in as of now tankless sucks...
instead of repairing them, everyone needs to start shipping whole broken units to some execs driveway/lawn, a full 53' dump trailer or multiple at once should get the point across. lol, I hate to be so crude about it, but that is exactly what needs to happen or perhaps the corporate offices nice mountains of trash machines piled high in front of the doors or all the parking entrance/exits ;)..............................
Error code 353 - thought I fixed it by "purging" draining the hot water relief valve. it worked got hot water. Error code went away but now it is now back on? Happy to pay you or some else a fee via Paypal - for a Facetime or other video chat?
smack the pump with a wrench or small hammer..... probably stuck from air(oyxgen/sludge/rust). then go about testing the boiler water, PH balance/other levels likely miles off and eating the system inside out. city water/well water/etc. means nothing overall
The best maintenance tip do not put one of these in your house. They constantly break down all the time between the pump, three-way valve and pressure sensor that always fail. Never had so many problems with units until high-efficiency came out. Cast-iron boilers far superior and will last 2 to 3 times as long as a high efficient boiler and without the headaches.
Let me get my phone in case something goes crazy LOL........I love chucks demeanor, coolest plumber ever.
ya right...another phone save. lol
Nice! We don’t have many radiant heating systems here in NC but we install Navien tankless water heaters all the time.
one good thing of living in cold weather area at least. So additional services we can do.
Great video man. I service and install Navien as well. You did some good work, I use my channel lock pliers backwards also when they don't fight the right way.
Thank you for your maintenance tips and this trouble shooting. You made my day. I know how to proceed. You're terrific.
The big flathead slot on the front of the pump behind the yellow sticker.inside the unit..turn that to bleed the air out..turn it left but not all the way out..youll hear the air comeing out..once it spits water consistently your good...probably had an air gap and pump had nothing to pump.so it overheated..good videos.
Thanks sir...
Would you install an expansion tank on a tankless water heater with a pressure reducing valve on the main line?
No sir.
I was wondering if the expansion tank was bad. I noticed once the boiler was coming up to temp the pressure getting really close to 30. I think 27.2 was the last in video. I’ve had a few of these go through a lot of expansion tanks. On a few ended up being the Ph was way off. Luckily Navien is awesome and while the homeowner had to pay to filter the water. They came through and supplied a new boiler. Definitely check the Ph on unit if expansion keeps blowing. 😎👍🏻
Great point! They did not have one.
True story....piped like regular boiler. insane.
For low torque jobs you should try a Milwalkee M12™ 1/4" Hex Screwdriver. Lot lighter and can manuver in tighter spaces.
Charles I was just in a bike shop and the guy had one....on my to get list now. thanks
Just a question. Why not change the pump head. 4 screws. Easy ? Not a criticism .
i rather entire pump be changed out.
What is the purpose of the boiler having it's own internal heating system water feed if there is also another feed directly into the system from the pressure reducing valve? Wouldn't these 2 feeds basically do the same thing?
With all of those electronics in that boiler it might not be a bad idea to have it plugged into a surge protector too.
combi requires feed for heat loop and for boiler.
I dont do tankless, thanks for the good training you provided, man that was brutle. wife pointed out that you should let your beard grow
thanks A. and no beard for me...ha.
Too bad they don't make that case a bit bigger and make layout a bit easier. Good video Chuck!
just a bit larger be nice.
they'd rather you call tech support 900 times, not be able to service it, then have 3+ other companies and top technicians called, then end up replacing it anyway.after some magical month's long, (warranty is voided) circle-jerk-fudge-fest, whilst you and home freezes and/or cannot shower :)))
yet they wonder why some of us are so salty and want to get rid of them all...... from the top down ;)
Or maybe access panels on the side like the panels on the back of laundry machines.
That big yellow snake is in your way haha that's one lazy way to leave the gas line. I hope you can tidy that up in the future. I've been saying it for ages about the magnetic filter and everyone kept saying there was no need because its copper base board. And the pumps are steel etc and the Components in the boiler are so fine they can easily block up. In Ireland and the uk you will not see a gas combi or system boiler without one. Magnetic filters have a massive market here.
Martin, magnets all in for me now. The yellow snake to be captured when filter installed. ha.
@@ChuckBarron good work chuck
Thanks Martin
Thats very illegal in MA.
@@ptech88 why?
I had the same error code. unit reached 200*. purged the unit and the internal pump drain valve. changed a dhw blown expansion tank. took 10 min. to purge air and ran fine. opened a bathroom faucet and air blew out hard-the real problem- slow leak on the dhw supply line above drywall ceiling. Thanks for the tips could not find an error code 001
mind melt some times.
Those tees are too far apart are they not?
they were good. ended up being a bad expansion tank. blowing off relief valve and losing purge on main loop that caused pump to go. thats my thinking.
Air scoop looks to be sandwiched pretty tight in there.
Righty tighty on that one
There is a lot wrong with that installation, I would recommend a full repipe.
I'm thinking the very same. Very lazy work.
Ya gonna service this baby and get er right for the folks. all while doing a magnetic filter in next week or so.
Tweek to come for sure on this baby.
Love how everything with these units are designed to be repaired by people with a three year olds hands... maybe I'll be blessed with acrodysostosis to make the repair go swimmingly...
i know right. lol
I hate tell this but.. Plumbing is simple needs to be kept simple. Tanked water heater / gas or electric very reliable. Don't want to sell a product I don't believe in as of now tankless sucks...
No way BC..they are super.
instead of repairing them, everyone needs to start shipping whole broken units to some execs driveway/lawn, a full 53' dump trailer or multiple at once should get the point across.
lol, I hate to be so crude about it, but that is exactly what needs to happen or perhaps the corporate offices nice mountains of trash machines piled high in front of the doors or all the parking entrance/exits ;)..............................
Thats Error Code F***
Cheaper way: email them a pic of every repair. Or perhaps an online graffiti wall for all to see.
28.6 pressure
alert!
Error code 353 - thought I fixed it by "purging" draining the hot water relief valve. it worked got hot water. Error code went away but now it is now back on? Happy to pay you or some else a fee via Paypal - for a Facetime or other video chat?
I’m the eight years we’ve had this furnace we’ve had to have it serviced about ten or more times. It is JUNK! Do not buy it.
smack the pump with a wrench or small hammer.....
probably stuck from air(oyxgen/sludge/rust). then go about testing the boiler water, PH balance/other levels likely miles off and eating the system inside out.
city water/well water/etc. means nothing overall
magnetic filters recommended on all systems now. anything thats has iron.....pump, flanges, air scoop....GREAT! LOL
@@ChuckBarron what about a house full of large cast iron radiators lol
just add one to each rad on feed and return...lol
Right back in your funny, these systems are junk