Bought mine brand new in 2008 and it lasted me nine years and over 100k miles. Had paint issues, one door handle, and the master brake cylinder but the car was otherwise bulletproof. I miss her to this day.
Your car is so nice looking, very clean and aggressive. I am debating between a tiburon and a few other cars. This video and your breakdown video put the tiburon higher up on my list for a first car.
That "lifter tick" can come from the hydraulic lash adjusters failing, but a similar sound can also result from other causes. The "lifters", or Hydraulic Lash Adjusters as they're called in the Hyundai shop manual, can't really be adjusted. Essentially, they're a four-part system, consisting of the bucket, a spring, a steel ball and a retaining plug. Oil from a port in the side of the valve hole in the head flows into the bucket through a small groove and pinhole, increasing pressure to a point where the oil, steel ball and spring form a dynamic fluid valve system keeping the lash adjuster properly squeezed between the valve stem and the overhead cam. They can fail in several ways: 1: spring failure. This causes the lash adjuster to just collapse, and you'll hear a metallic banging from inside the engine. In this case, you'll want to get at least one new lash adjuster. 2: sludge build up/debris holding the ball open. This causes the lash adjuster to rattle, as it can't build up sufficient pressure. You'll hear an annoying sound, much like on a cold start after a long time sitting, where the oil will have naturally flowed out of even fully working HLAs. 3: sludge build up/debris holding the ball closed. This will cause wearing of the lash adjuster and cam and might cause some mildly rougher running (not that you'd really notice with these engines). 4: sludge build up/debris preventing oil flow into the bucket. This will cause the initial rattle/ticking to take longer to dissipate, or it might not dissipate at all. I feel like I'm forgetting at least one... Solutions: in case of spring failure or excessive wear, get a new lash adjuster. in case of sludge build up/debris, remove and disassemble lash adjuster and clean it with an ultrasonic cleaner, then reassemble. How difficult this is to fix depends on where exactly the failure happened: if it's on the exhaust side, you can just unbolt the exhaust camshaft and (carefully) lift it aside and pull the HLA out with a magnet-on-a-stick. If it's on the intake side, you'll need to remove your timing belt in order to be able to lift out the intake camshaft (in which case you'll want to replace the timing belt and possibly the water pump, rollers and tensioner). While you're in there, make sure to check the condition of the camshaft chain guides, because those consist of a metal bracket with a nylon pad on them. Over time, the nylon pad can either get brittle and break off, or it might wear down completely to a point where your cam chains will be digging chunks out of the relatively soft metal bracket. And finally, what you're hearing might not be lifter tick at all: it might be a failing accessory belt tensioner or timing belt tensioner or a roller on either belt. All worth checking out, too. On mine, the lash adjusters were thankfully fine, but the timing chain tensioner was seized, causing the timing belt to skip and the cams to move inconsistently, resulting in a banging noise which almost sounded like piston slap (worn piston wrist pin or cylinder wall). Also, the cam chain guides were both worn down to metal with deep grooves in them, explaining the metal I found in the oil. Ticking and rattling sounds can also come from the engine wearing down, gaps increasing by imperceptible amounts, etc., and the "fix" to that is to run thicker oil. I'm happy with 10W-40 in my 294 000 km Tiburon (which is still on jackstands in my shop waiting for some rocker welding action - rust on both sides). While the car should technically run fine on 5W-30, 10W-40 smooths out the sounds of the engine. According to the shop manual, I could also switch up to something like 10W-50. Finally, no matter what you do, these are some noisy bois. The valves will clatter, the HLAs will clatter, the fuel injectors will tick (and at least my original injectors were REALLY noisy), the throttle body and surge tank geometry makes the inrushing air create a metallic cutting sound, and the generally all-metal construction of the engine will increase the noticeability of every possible noise - which is why Hyundai put thick plastic and foam insulation everywhere in the engine bay.. most of which you'll want to remove ASAP because of its tendency to trap debris and moisture and cause rot. Sorry for the long-winded post, I just figured it'd be useful stuff to know. :)
...oh, yeah: the HLAs will also make noise if you use the "wrong" type of oil filter. More info can be found on the NewTiburon forums, but basically, only the original Hyundai oil filters and high-flow K&N oil filters have been verified to allow sufficiently low restriction to oil flow for the lash adjusters to properly pressurize. The heads are the last places the oil goes, and if there's a restriction to oil flow (obstructed oil pickup tube, restrictive or clogged filter or worn oil pump), the first you'll start hearing of it are the hydraulic lash adjusters.
Thanks for all that info, really good for new people too who are learning about lifter tick 🙌🏼 I only just found out they aren’t really adjustable for the Tiburon after making the video lol. I’ve heard of it being the belts or pulleys but I’ve had it for so many years and after hearing it so many times in different conditions it’s 100% lifter tick in my case. It’s weird because the car has been dealer serviced with always oem filters and the tick never went away. I think most likely it’s gunked up but could be any of those problems you listed. Unfortunately a whole top end rebuild or doing all that effort to sort it usually leads to a top end rebuild so it’s extremely costly if you aren’t mechanically inclined. So nothing I can do until I save up like 2-3k$ 😂 and if I do it seldom will be going into the lifters
@@theliltibby yeah, based on the amount of trouble I went through with mine I'd guesstimate a shop would bill you for around 6-8 hours of labor plus parts for a HLA + belt service. It's not exactly difficult work to do yourself with basic hand tools, but you need to be a little mechanically savvy so that you don't break anything while taking things apart (especially the timing belt... You will want a flywheel locking tool at least, along with a set of torque wrenches that span the range of 5-200 Nm). You will also need a clean place to work and space to put down parts. Not something for the average home gamer, but not impossible, either.
Hey i got some ticking noises right after i start my car. The strange thing is, it's only up to 1500rpm. At 1600rpm and above, it's gone. It also goes away when the engine warms up. Is it lifter tick or is it something else?
@@diabetix7 First things first: yes, having some ticking during startup and warmup is normal. The HLAs will have drained and need to get back up to pressure - it can take anywhere from a couple of seconds to almost a minute depending on a variety of factors. Also the fuel injectors will usually be quite noisy until they warm up, and it's easy to mistake this clattering for lifter tick. However, if you feel that your tick is abnormally loud, read on... It could be lifter tick, yes. It could be related to oil viscosity - if it's too thin, it might not be going up to the head with enough pressure at low RPM. If it's too thick, it might not be getting into the buckets at all due to excessive viscosity (like trying to push a golf ball through a garden hose). Once it warms up, the oil will have gained freer flow and will have filled up the buckets with sufficient volume. :) The lifters will also get noisy (this is not a 'may', but a 'will', according to the NewTiburon community) if you're using basically any oil filter other than the Hyundai OEM or K&N. Other filters will fit and they'll work for daily driving for a while, but they'll soon stop flowing sufficiently to keep the lifters fed. My car developed what I thought was lifter tick at first, but it just got worse after I screwed with the oil. It turned out to be caused by a seized timing belt tensioner. It started out as a ticking at low RPM but soon the RPM range where it was audible grew, after which the sound developed into a banging sound that was eerily like piston slap. So: 1: check your oil - in most cases you should be running something like 5W-40. Check your owners manual and double check the operating temperature range. Old, worn engine will *usually* be happy with one step thicker oil than the manual specifies. 2: check your filter and make sure it's OEM or K&N. If not, replace. 3: if oil & filter check out and changing them doesn't make the ticking go away, check the condition of your belts and rollers. If any of them look worn or suspect, change them. Changing the auxiliary belt, rollers and tensioners should run you about $100 for the parts and a competent mechanic should be done in under an hour (or you could do it yourself in about three if you're a first timer). The auxiliary belt needs to come off in order for you to be able to inspect the timing belt tensioner, and you need to take the power steering pump pulley off to get at the timing belt covers. However, if you're mucking about with the aux belt, it's worth inspecting the timing belt and related components while you're at it. This is a very likely culprit, because the bearings on those rollers will make a sound almost exactly like the classic "lifter tick". 4: if the belts check out fine and the oil and filter seem fine and it's *STILL* ticking, you might want to drop your oil pan to check for sludge or obstructions in the oil pickup tube. The screen end of the pickup is shaped like a closed bell, so it's prone to sucking up and holding onto all kinds of gunk that can impede oil flow. Be sure to do this work in a dust-free environment (or have it be done by a professional). You *will* need a new oil pickup tube gasket and soft plastic prying tools for peeling the old one off. If you see weird black plasticky bits in the oil pan, see the next point.. 5: if it's *still* ticking in an abnormal fashion.. then it might be worth taking a look under the valve covers. Check for "unusually soft" buckets by pressing on them gently with a non-splintering wooden dowel. While you're in there, check the condition of the camshaft chain guides - they're supposed to have a black plastic pad on them that the loose side of the chain presses against. Front head will have it on the top, rear head will have it on the bottom. If they are worn down to metal, you'll want to replace them and flush the oil channels with some cheap (but suitable) motor oil to get plastic debris and metal shavings out. Use a bore scope where you can to make sure you don't have plastic parts lodged in. New guides can be found on eBay. Do *not* attempt to re-use the bolts holding down the chain guide for the rear head, get new bolts. Be aware that any "inside the head" work requires a precision torque wrench, and that replacement of the rear head chain guide requires temporarily unbolting and lifting out the exhaust camshaft. Good luck!
One thing I would add to the list is the manual clutch. On the Tiburon/Coupe forum I used to frequent in my country, very few drove a factory clutch past 180k km. Mine went out two weeks after I bought it from a dealership (at around 150k km), and after it was replaced (along with the belt and a water pump) it was nothing but smooth ride ever since. It's great that somebody on youtube is giving Tiburon the love it deserves, yours is definitely the most tasteful and cleanest build I've ever seen.
@@theliltibby Emmm I understand something in English, but "lifter tick" is mistranslated by the translator... And I don't understand it. I think you mean the noise of the tappets, and yes, I had the noise but as soon as I changed the oil, it's perfect 😃 💯 I understand that the oil loses its properties and that what the manufacturer says does not last, my mechanic says that the current 5w30 is not worth anything for the poor quality they have, I am going to put 10w40 acea c3 and I will tell you.
I have a 2004 GT. When I painted my spoiler, I found that the color was in the plastic. It wasn't painted at all, the blue metallic went all the way through. It could have been sanded down and polished. It's hard as hell so possibly more work then painting. No clue if anything else was made the same way.. Forgot, also had door handle do same thing. When replaced I reinforced the captive nut with epoxy. Used epoxy paste to reinforce back of interior door handle too. Now remembering my gas cap door is epoxy and metal around the hinge. They brake EASY, so repaired sanded, painted flat black, actually looks better I think. HEADLIGHT fog fix. Drill a very small up to about 1/8" or two at the very bottom. It lets the condensation out but nothing in. It's a ancient body shop trick works 100% of the time. While it's out, if clouded plastic you can be aggressive with 360 grit WET sandpaper. Then use like 400 then 600-1000 and clear coat. Tried it on replaced light, worked well so did ones on car.
Most exterior issues you mentioned have happened to mine, but I bought it in that condition for super cheap. The internals thus far are holding up (minus the radiator I had replaced) at 115k. Back driver side quarter panel is ROUGH with rust damage so I plan to sand & bondo it before having the whole car resprayed. Spoiler is completely stripped of paint too. Thanks for the videos, lets get married sometime.
Yah it’s not hard to find that these issues basically happen to every single one 😂 internals can be a bit trickier to predict, sometimes if you get a lemon it’s almost all the internals that are done for lol but it sounds like you have decent luck with it and lmao 😂
Completely agree, I have a black one and the spoiler is the worst, the tank cover has started to become dull... Oxide on the anti-caloric plate of the brake disc, and on the discs... And the roof solar is a headache because I have gotten water twice 🤣
Picking up an ‘06 SE with the 6 speed this week, super excited! I’ve always wanted a Tiburon just never had a chance to. Nice car, and great informative video too. Thanks for the information!
I miss my 03 Tiburon. For anyone looking at the 03s if you see a 6 speed in the wild DO NOT BUY the 6 speed transmission's will ALL explode. If you get a 5 speed manual make sure to delete the spring in the slave cylinder and get a new flywheel and clutch. There was a TSB on the clutch in 03-04. Your Tib looks great!
Definitely cheaper to do yourself, you’ll probably save 500$ or more. Most people don’t have the experience/tools for it though since it’s a pretty difficult job, in US and Canada you’ll be paying 900-1000$ at any shop
Something I learned over the years dealing with screws into plastic threads is where possible, go to the next side up screw and you both fix the issue and you have reduced chance of happening again because your spreading the load over a larger area. On timing belts, it's all about doing proper maintenance on or before time and using high quality belts.
The lifter ticks on these cars with the 2.7L engine are non adjustable. You replace it or either use the right oil and do the regular maintenance schedule on the oil changes. On the rubber timing belts there's nothing you can do about that. Most of your modern unibody cars use timing belts. Very few of them use timing chains. As long as you do the timing belt replacement about every 75,000 miles you should be fine.
My 2008 black Tiburon has 110,000 miles...absolutely no issues...you may want to consider tinted headlights...gives a stylish headturner aspect. Wish the tail lights weren't so generic.
The sunroof choppiness is from dirt and dust getting in the tracks that the roller slide along. Best fixes to clean it out and then apply some lithium grease.
Thanx for the vid, nice and informative! I can certainly add a lot to this list, and wow...sensors on the GK2 are another story... still, good to get insight from another enthusiast :)
They definitely don’t do that 😂 that would make sense but I bet you’d book a service thinking that should be included and they won’t include it. Mine specifically was dealer serviced fully by the original owner with receipts and she followed all the services and they did nothing about that😂
@@theliltibby That is true most of the time they only do that when something is wrong. I actually think at my dealership i was the only one wgo actually did that. 😂
Mine (simple coupé) does a weird thing. The spare wheel cavity fills up with water. I have no idea where that water comes from... There's not a spot of rust, it's all aluminium, but it's really weird.
It’s coming from the tail lights drainage points being clogged and water going into the middle section (where the hatch latch is) and it gets in between the welds or sealant holes between the body panels underneath all the plastics & carpet. *So the part between the tail lights*
@@JohnsonLobster search “water in spare tire boot new Tiburon forums” and there should be a bunch of threads with better explanations. So the watch drainage channels and kind of behind the tail lights can have built up leaves and debris in it that affects water flow, mine currently has leaves stuffed behind the lights too (you’ll have to remove the taillight) Then water can find it’s way to other spots in the rear hatch area which you might need to strip the area down and add silicone sealant to every crack and seam you see lol or do a water pour test
Subframe rot is a major problem, these cars are made of monkey metal so depending what kind of area you live in a yearly corrosion inhibitor treatment on the subframe and the entire underside is a must. There is no option to replace the front subframe bushings either so unless you get custom poly ones specifically made you have to source and fit an entire subframe if they go.
The poly mounts are not hard to get there is someone in the Tiburon fb groups that sells them. But yes I would say no matter where you live you should be rust proofing your cars yearly or every other year, but in high rust areas as a vehicle owner you should already know that you need to do that. Not so much the cars fault as it is the owners (or past owners) fault imo. But unfortunately for older cars you have to be especially mindful since parts get discontinued when the vehicle does
But I’ll add there’s definitely fault to the factory as many are just incompetent with their under coatings from factory and the Tiburon suffers from this
I have a 2004 104k door handle inside came off very irritating because of how its connected to the lock one of the air vents randomly came off some rest near wheel a little also on rocker panel paint on the gas door peeled paint but timing belt is good haven't changed yet or water pump byt gonna need a sensor changed soon because when i put gas in car it has issues and lastly one of my gas tank straps rusted and came off now i need to replace them soon since theres only one now
Has anyone found a better exterior/interior set of door handles? I know for some vehicles there's aftermarket metal handles available but haven't seen one for this car.
Unfortunately our aftermarket hasn’t been that blessed yet. People try to 3D print them but it’s never gotten anywhere. Best you can do is be careful. Maybe glue a metal wire to the back lol
chasis get rusty and plastics really breaks, but mine 2.0, 102 kw 4 inline, 2002. 350 000 km, really has relaible engine, in mine opinion much better build and quality than many cars after 2010. I have lpg too, but I stopped using it since, I had problem with gas, its only good for around city with lpg.
That’s great to hear for an 02, not what I would have expected. Although I feel like the v6 would have more issues trying to get up to 350k, sure I’ll find out lol other than the tick both my engine and trans run surprisingly well for their age and the fact most people don’t believe these engines are strong at all. I still stand with the build quality being good for the time but now I don’t think it holds up, the plastics are just in the wrong places where now they use stronger materials and better engineering (*cough* door handles) but there definitely are some bad built cars out there even today which is disappointing 😂 so I see what you’re saying
Hmm I was thinking the fuel pump was an issue on mine, ima probably replace the whole assembly. Do you know the part number for the little triangle plastic piece next to the side mirrors on the window? My driverside one snapped in half. I also need to know the part number for the black plastic piece under the rear bumper.
You might want to also try cleaning or testing/replacing your MAF sensor because sometimes a faulty one can mimic the symptoms of a bad fuel pump as well. Fuel issues are the worst 😂🤦🏼♀️ I don’t know the part number but if you look up tiburon A pillar trim or corner window trim it should pop up easily on eBay. Rear bumper I beleive that part might actually be part of the bumper. Try searching genuine Hyundai parts pro website that’s where I find all my part numbers
@@theliltibby yeah I already did that, car drives fine under medium throttle it is when I try getting on it, it feels sluggish now. Hmm okay because the outline of the bumpers online don't show the middle piece with the exhaust holes
@@jungillestt02 yah I had the same problem and have been going back and forth deciding what it is 🥲 discussed with a mechanic who believes my MAF is faulty but after I cleaned it it seems to work really well. So I’m down to just replacing the whole pump and the injectors or MAF Its just that they’re all expensive so I’m trying to choose wisely lol yah I hear you on the bumper that confuses me too but I haven’t been able to find the piece anywhere else separately
Love the car and how it looks, I am thinkikg about buying one it will be my first tiburon but I wanted to ask you and amyone that has owned one if it's worth it since I am a student and don't have that much money to modify it but more to maintain aspect, like it is going to give me a lot of problems, I'm I going to be left in the side of the road, or major issues with engine or transmission, I found one is a 2008 hyundai tiburon gt v6 with 145k miles, it has some dents and scratches a see some rust not that serious but it is still rust but I wanted to ask you if it is worth it for $1500 dollars and how long you think is going to last if well taken care of thanks 🙏🏼 😊
IMO it won’t leave you on the side of the road unless something significant breaks and that won’t happen given you keep up with the maintenance. The problem is older cars in general (especially high mileage) will require more maintenance more frequently than a newer car would, that’s the trade off. Cheap to buy expensive to maintain vs expensive to buy & covered by warranty. If you’re buying one with high miles you need to be specifically more careful. Mine has 145k on it and I’ve replaced the battery twice, suspension, all rotors pads and calipers, spark plugs, timing belts, O2 sensors, AC, brake flush etc Most of that can run you 400-800$ a pop. Definitely make sure they have records of all that being done or else it might be you that has a bunch of components past overdue for replacement. A pre purchase inspection will save you from that surprise as well
every single coupe I see the spoiler has peel on them. I think its because then wing is plastic and the body is fibreglass? its worth getting repainted or wrapped
The bumpers, mirrors and wing are plastic and everything else is aluminum. I think it’s a mix of cheap paint and sun damage since the wings and mirrors all get full sun while with the bumpers don’t
Is the hesitation on the sunroof opening not just fighting against the one touch facility?. I used to keep the sunroof opening button depressed and it would judder it's way open until I figured out it's a one touch switch and you only have to press and hold it for a second and then let it go and the sunroof opens smoothly.
Yes this is exactly what happens, it’s a one touch. But it’s not a one touch to close and it will hesitate with that, sometimes opening as well even if you do the one touch it will stop or not perform the full function, on the odd time. I’ve seen it fixed with a quick clean of the circuit board contacts
It’s the hydronic lifters or tappets in the engine having a leak or needing adjustment which makes them not work efficiently. Usually for these it’s only on cold starts so it’s a matter of the oil getting to it fast enough and warming up and then it’ll go away, but it the engine constantly ticks then it might need replacing. I’ve had it get better with different types of oil or oil treatment so it can coat the engine faster but it usually comes back. They’re kinda complicated to manage unless you fully address it with a top end rebuild basically
@@killerinstinctkillerinstin6961 do you have an intake? I’d also scan it again and see if there’s a different code. Or clear the code and see if it comes back
@@theliltibby i remember i tried clearing it but it wouldnt let me it said had no check engine but the check engine was still on should i go for a full drive cycle??
@@_SPR1GZY that’s 150k miles. Mine has 240k kms now, but for a car that’s 4 years older I wouldn’t be paying 4k for it. Just the age alone with the high mileage, it’s a risk for a lot of failures (unless low miles & well taken care of so you know there’s less risk) if it’s got 150k on it & it has rust, stains, paint fade & ripped interior or nasty looking engine bay you know it hasn’t been. That’s like maybe 1500-2k range
The fob is from a 2 way alarm system from compustar, there is also viper that has a similar one but none are really that cheap, although older models might be if you can find them
I can’t speak on the manuals but the autos are fine. 150k miles (245k kms) no problems with the engine or transmission. Never seen a check engine light in 6 yrs of ownership 🤷🏼♀️keep on top of maintenance as a car owner should, don’t buy a beat up example and you’ll be fine. But an old car is an old car. If you can’t afford the increase in maintenance don’t buy an old car. Unless it’s a Honda
I still have my 2006 V6 GT 156K it's mint still had to replace the camshaft sensor. Hey girl, put a aupercharger in it and eat vettes ans pretty much everybody. That is a Delta GK 2.7. 1996-2008 RIP Tiburon shark. Got a spare 8k? It's a fucking bullet supercar, bet. Low 7s. I dont have a sunroof, i could get one installed. I have a Lancer Evo too 😉. Nice ride, hope you still have it. Treat it well. Maintenence and park it in the garage.
Bought mine brand new in 2008 and it lasted me nine years and over 100k miles. Had paint issues, one door handle, and the master brake cylinder but the car was otherwise bulletproof. I miss her to this day.
Your car is so nice looking, very clean and aggressive. I am debating between a tiburon and a few other cars. This video and your breakdown video put the tiburon higher up on my list for a first car.
Appreciate it 🙏🏼glad they help you consider a tib!
got myself 2008 tiburon earlier this month ur videos been helping alot
Glad to help! 🙌🏼 hope the build goes well
That "lifter tick" can come from the hydraulic lash adjusters failing, but a similar sound can also result from other causes.
The "lifters", or Hydraulic Lash Adjusters as they're called in the Hyundai shop manual, can't really be adjusted. Essentially, they're a four-part system, consisting of the bucket, a spring, a steel ball and a retaining plug. Oil from a port in the side of the valve hole in the head flows into the bucket through a small groove and pinhole, increasing pressure to a point where the oil, steel ball and spring form a dynamic fluid valve system keeping the lash adjuster properly squeezed between the valve stem and the overhead cam.
They can fail in several ways:
1: spring failure. This causes the lash adjuster to just collapse, and you'll hear a metallic banging from inside the engine. In this case, you'll want to get at least one new lash adjuster.
2: sludge build up/debris holding the ball open. This causes the lash adjuster to rattle, as it can't build up sufficient pressure. You'll hear an annoying sound, much like on a cold start after a long time sitting, where the oil will have naturally flowed out of even fully working HLAs.
3: sludge build up/debris holding the ball closed. This will cause wearing of the lash adjuster and cam and might cause some mildly rougher running (not that you'd really notice with these engines).
4: sludge build up/debris preventing oil flow into the bucket. This will cause the initial rattle/ticking to take longer to dissipate, or it might not dissipate at all.
I feel like I'm forgetting at least one...
Solutions:
in case of spring failure or excessive wear, get a new lash adjuster. in case of sludge build up/debris, remove and disassemble lash adjuster and clean it with an ultrasonic cleaner, then reassemble.
How difficult this is to fix depends on where exactly the failure happened: if it's on the exhaust side, you can just unbolt the exhaust camshaft and (carefully) lift it aside and pull the HLA out with a magnet-on-a-stick. If it's on the intake side, you'll need to remove your timing belt in order to be able to lift out the intake camshaft (in which case you'll want to replace the timing belt and possibly the water pump, rollers and tensioner). While you're in there, make sure to check the condition of the camshaft chain guides, because those consist of a metal bracket with a nylon pad on them. Over time, the nylon pad can either get brittle and break off, or it might wear down completely to a point where your cam chains will be digging chunks out of the relatively soft metal bracket.
And finally, what you're hearing might not be lifter tick at all: it might be a failing accessory belt tensioner or timing belt tensioner or a roller on either belt. All worth checking out, too.
On mine, the lash adjusters were thankfully fine, but the timing chain tensioner was seized, causing the timing belt to skip and the cams to move inconsistently, resulting in a banging noise which almost sounded like piston slap (worn piston wrist pin or cylinder wall). Also, the cam chain guides were both worn down to metal with deep grooves in them, explaining the metal I found in the oil.
Ticking and rattling sounds can also come from the engine wearing down, gaps increasing by imperceptible amounts, etc., and the "fix" to that is to run thicker oil.
I'm happy with 10W-40 in my 294 000 km Tiburon (which is still on jackstands in my shop waiting for some rocker welding action - rust on both sides). While the car should technically run fine on 5W-30, 10W-40 smooths out the sounds of the engine. According to the shop manual, I could also switch up to something like 10W-50.
Finally, no matter what you do, these are some noisy bois. The valves will clatter, the HLAs will clatter, the fuel injectors will tick (and at least my original injectors were REALLY noisy), the throttle body and surge tank geometry makes the inrushing air create a metallic cutting sound, and the generally all-metal construction of the engine will increase the noticeability of every possible noise - which is why Hyundai put thick plastic and foam insulation everywhere in the engine bay.. most of which you'll want to remove ASAP because of its tendency to trap debris and moisture and cause rot.
Sorry for the long-winded post, I just figured it'd be useful stuff to know. :)
...oh, yeah: the HLAs will also make noise if you use the "wrong" type of oil filter. More info can be found on the NewTiburon forums, but basically, only the original Hyundai oil filters and high-flow K&N oil filters have been verified to allow sufficiently low restriction to oil flow for the lash adjusters to properly pressurize.
The heads are the last places the oil goes, and if there's a restriction to oil flow (obstructed oil pickup tube, restrictive or clogged filter or worn oil pump), the first you'll start hearing of it are the hydraulic lash adjusters.
Thanks for all that info, really good for new people too who are learning about lifter tick 🙌🏼 I only just found out they aren’t really adjustable for the Tiburon after making the video lol. I’ve heard of it being the belts or pulleys but I’ve had it for so many years and after hearing it so many times in different conditions it’s 100% lifter tick in my case. It’s weird because the car has been dealer serviced with always oem filters and the tick never went away. I think most likely it’s gunked up but could be any of those problems you listed. Unfortunately a whole top end rebuild or doing all that effort to sort it usually leads to a top end rebuild so it’s extremely costly if you aren’t mechanically inclined. So nothing I can do until I save up like 2-3k$ 😂 and if I do it seldom will be going into the lifters
@@theliltibby yeah, based on the amount of trouble I went through with mine I'd guesstimate a shop would bill you for around 6-8 hours of labor plus parts for a HLA + belt service. It's not exactly difficult work to do yourself with basic hand tools, but you need to be a little mechanically savvy so that you don't break anything while taking things apart (especially the timing belt... You will want a flywheel locking tool at least, along with a set of torque wrenches that span the range of 5-200 Nm). You will also need a clean place to work and space to put down parts.
Not something for the average home gamer, but not impossible, either.
Hey i got some ticking noises right after i start my car. The strange thing is, it's only up to 1500rpm. At 1600rpm and above, it's gone. It also goes away when the engine warms up. Is it lifter tick or is it something else?
@@diabetix7
First things first: yes, having some ticking during startup and warmup is normal. The HLAs will have drained and need to get back up to pressure - it can take anywhere from a couple of seconds to almost a minute depending on a variety of factors. Also the fuel injectors will usually be quite noisy until they warm up, and it's easy to mistake this clattering for lifter tick.
However, if you feel that your tick is abnormally loud, read on...
It could be lifter tick, yes. It could be related to oil viscosity - if it's too thin, it might not be going up to the head with enough pressure at low RPM. If it's too thick, it might not be getting into the buckets at all due to excessive viscosity (like trying to push a golf ball through a garden hose). Once it warms up, the oil will have gained freer flow and will have filled up the buckets with sufficient volume. :)
The lifters will also get noisy (this is not a 'may', but a 'will', according to the NewTiburon community) if you're using basically any oil filter other than the Hyundai OEM or K&N. Other filters will fit and they'll work for daily driving for a while, but they'll soon stop flowing sufficiently to keep the lifters fed.
My car developed what I thought was lifter tick at first, but it just got worse after I screwed with the oil. It turned out to be caused by a seized timing belt tensioner. It started out as a ticking at low RPM but soon the RPM range where it was audible grew, after which the sound developed into a banging sound that was eerily like piston slap.
So:
1: check your oil - in most cases you should be running something like 5W-40. Check your owners manual and double check the operating temperature range. Old, worn engine will *usually* be happy with one step thicker oil than the manual specifies.
2: check your filter and make sure it's OEM or K&N. If not, replace.
3: if oil & filter check out and changing them doesn't make the ticking go away, check the condition of your belts and rollers. If any of them look worn or suspect, change them. Changing the auxiliary belt, rollers and tensioners should run you about $100 for the parts and a competent mechanic should be done in under an hour (or you could do it yourself in about three if you're a first timer).
The auxiliary belt needs to come off in order for you to be able to inspect the timing belt tensioner, and you need to take the power steering pump pulley off to get at the timing belt covers. However, if you're mucking about with the aux belt, it's worth inspecting the timing belt and related components while you're at it.
This is a very likely culprit, because the bearings on those rollers will make a sound almost exactly like the classic "lifter tick".
4: if the belts check out fine and the oil and filter seem fine and it's *STILL* ticking, you might want to drop your oil pan to check for sludge or obstructions in the oil pickup tube. The screen end of the pickup is shaped like a closed bell, so it's prone to sucking up and holding onto all kinds of gunk that can impede oil flow.
Be sure to do this work in a dust-free environment (or have it be done by a professional). You *will* need a new oil pickup tube gasket and soft plastic prying tools for peeling the old one off. If you see weird black plasticky bits in the oil pan, see the next point..
5: if it's *still* ticking in an abnormal fashion.. then it might be worth taking a look under the valve covers. Check for "unusually soft" buckets by pressing on them gently with a non-splintering wooden dowel. While you're in there, check the condition of the camshaft chain guides - they're supposed to have a black plastic pad on them that the loose side of the chain presses against. Front head will have it on the top, rear head will have it on the bottom. If they are worn down to metal, you'll want to replace them and flush the oil channels with some cheap (but suitable) motor oil to get plastic debris and metal shavings out. Use a bore scope where you can to make sure you don't have plastic parts lodged in.
New guides can be found on eBay. Do *not* attempt to re-use the bolts holding down the chain guide for the rear head, get new bolts. Be aware that any "inside the head" work requires a precision torque wrench, and that replacement of the rear head chain guide requires temporarily unbolting and lifting out the exhaust camshaft.
Good luck!
One thing I would add to the list is the manual clutch. On the Tiburon/Coupe forum I used to frequent in my country, very few drove a factory clutch past 180k km. Mine went out two weeks after I bought it from a dealership (at around 150k km), and after it was replaced (along with the belt and a water pump) it was nothing but smooth ride ever since.
It's great that somebody on youtube is giving Tiburon the love it deserves, yours is definitely the most tasteful and cleanest build I've ever seen.
Appreciate it 😄, that’s good info to have on here too, unfortunately I’m only familiar with the auto side of things
I have two Hyundai coupes v6 with 175km and 194km and the only thing that has failed me is the clutch collar, about €240 to repair
@@stefanbroocks8693 that’s awesome, yah majority of my problems happened after 200k but nothing extremely major. Did you have lifter tick?
@@theliltibby Emmm I understand something in English, but "lifter tick" is mistranslated by the translator... And I don't understand it. I think you mean the noise of the tappets, and yes, I had the noise but as soon as I changed the oil, it's perfect 😃 💯 I understand that the oil loses its properties and that what the manufacturer says does not last, my mechanic says that the current 5w30 is not worth anything for the poor quality they have, I am going to put 10w40 acea c3 and I will tell you.
Haha fr, im getting mine replaced this year too 🤣
I have a 2004 GT. When I painted my spoiler, I found that the color was in the plastic. It wasn't painted at all, the blue metallic went all the way through. It could have been sanded down and polished. It's hard as hell so possibly more work then painting. No clue if anything else was made the same way..
Forgot, also had door handle do same thing. When replaced I reinforced the captive nut with epoxy. Used epoxy paste to reinforce back of interior door handle too. Now remembering my gas cap door is epoxy and metal around the hinge. They brake EASY, so repaired sanded, painted flat black, actually looks better I think.
HEADLIGHT fog fix. Drill a very small up to about 1/8" or two at the very bottom. It lets the condensation out but nothing in. It's a ancient body shop trick works 100% of the time. While it's out, if clouded plastic you can be aggressive with 360 grit WET sandpaper. Then use like 400 then 600-1000 and clear coat. Tried it on replaced light, worked well so did ones on car.
Most exterior issues you mentioned have happened to mine, but I bought it in that condition for super cheap. The internals thus far are holding up (minus the radiator I had replaced) at 115k. Back driver side quarter panel is ROUGH with rust damage so I plan to sand & bondo it before having the whole car resprayed. Spoiler is completely stripped of paint too. Thanks for the videos, lets get married sometime.
Yah it’s not hard to find that these issues basically happen to every single one 😂 internals can be a bit trickier to predict, sometimes if you get a lemon it’s almost all the internals that are done for lol but it sounds like you have decent luck with it and lmao 😂
Completely agree, I have a black one and the spoiler is the worst, the tank cover has started to become dull... Oxide on the anti-caloric plate of the brake disc, and on the discs... And the roof solar is a headache because I have gotten water twice 🤣
Picking up an ‘06 SE with the 6 speed this week, super excited! I’ve always wanted a Tiburon just never had a chance to. Nice car, and great informative video too. Thanks for the information!
No problem, enjoy it! 🙌🏼
I miss my 03 Tiburon. For anyone looking at the 03s if you see a 6 speed in the wild DO NOT BUY the 6 speed transmission's will ALL explode. If you get a 5 speed manual make sure to delete the spring in the slave cylinder and get a new flywheel and clutch. There was a TSB on the clutch in 03-04.
Your Tib looks great!
Appreciate it! And thanks for the warning 👍🏼
1k for water pump and belt that's a lot, I changed mine here in Bulgaria for something like 100$, but yeah parts and labor here are much cheaper 😂
Definitely cheaper to do yourself, you’ll probably save 500$ or more. Most people don’t have the experience/tools for it though since it’s a pretty difficult job, in US and Canada you’ll be paying 900-1000$ at any shop
Something I learned over the years dealing with screws into plastic threads is where possible, go to the next side up screw and you both fix the issue and you have reduced chance of happening again because your spreading the load over a larger area.
On timing belts, it's all about doing proper maintenance on or before time and using high quality belts.
engine wise it's a tank, but yeah outside that it's definitely a problem, the best solutions is of course putting yor radio to the max
The lifter ticks on these cars with the 2.7L engine are non adjustable. You replace it or either use the right oil and do the regular maintenance schedule on the oil changes. On the rubber timing belts there's nothing you can do about that. Most of your modern unibody cars use timing belts. Very few of them use timing chains. As long as you do the timing belt replacement about every 75,000 miles you should be fine.
My 2008 black Tiburon has 110,000 miles...absolutely no issues...you may want to consider tinted headlights...gives a stylish headturner aspect. Wish the tail lights weren't so generic.
your car is really nice i wanted one in high school
soo relatable, this! But all things considered, these are pretty solid!
Exactly they’re just a bit dramatic 😂 literally the definition of “take care of it and it’ll take care of you”
Literally just bought my first car and itsa 07 tibby 🥰
I'll be doing a rear wiper delete tommorow, good video!
Nice I gotta get on that too!
"If I remember correctly, my 2005 Coupe was manufactured in Turkey. The car's common defect was the rusting of the rear wheel arches.
LOL my sunroof literally has that same choppy motion...those half seconds of denying me sun kill me.
The fear of it dying halfway and denying me sun
The sunroof choppiness is from dirt and dust getting in the tracks that the roller slide along. Best fixes to clean it out and then apply some lithium grease.
@@jonf2009 Thanks for the tip mate! Will try that.
100% correct on everything
Thanx for the vid, nice and informative! I can certainly add a lot to this list, and wow...sensors on the GK2 are another story... still, good to get insight from another enthusiast :)
당신 차는 너무 이쁘게 꾸몄어요. 저도 이차를 너무 좋아해서 02, 07년식을 탔었어요.
Love ur video's ❤
Appreciate it! 😄
WOOOOOOOOOO NEW VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!
Love the excitement 😂 sucks these are so delayed from where the car always is
Great job!good video. Thanks 😊
Thanks for this
Love this car
Alot of the engine oil issues are due to the oil filter. They need to be the original oil filter from Hyundai and not aftermarket
Hyundai actually says the mechanics have to check valveplay at - i think - every 2nd inspection. That's why all of the older Hyundais tick when cold.
They definitely don’t do that 😂 that would make sense but I bet you’d book a service thinking that should be included and they won’t include it. Mine specifically was dealer serviced fully by the original owner with receipts and she followed all the services and they did nothing about that😂
@@theliltibby That is true most of the time they only do that when something is wrong. I actually think at my dealership i was the only one wgo actually did that. 😂
Hey nice build and you reminded me of my own car with its problems 😂😅. Its a mk1 renault laguna and i can tell some are similar.
Thanks! Yah many of these are just universal old car problems for sure 😂
Had this car in the past and can confirm all points. It was said that I had to give it up in my student time.
Body kit?
Mine (simple coupé) does a weird thing. The spare wheel cavity fills up with water. I have no idea where that water comes from...
There's not a spot of rust, it's all aluminium, but it's really weird.
It’s coming from the tail lights drainage points being clogged and water going into the middle section (where the hatch latch is) and it gets in between the welds or sealant holes between the body panels underneath all the plastics & carpet. *So the part between the tail lights*
@@theliltibby OK, thanks a lot for the reply, but I can't see any drainage holes. Do I have to take out the cover around the tail lights?
@@JohnsonLobster search “water in spare tire boot new Tiburon forums” and there should be a bunch of threads with better explanations. So the watch drainage channels and kind of behind the tail lights can have built up leaves and debris in it that affects water flow, mine currently has leaves stuffed behind the lights too (you’ll have to remove the taillight) Then water can find it’s way to other spots in the rear hatch area which you might need to strip the area down and add silicone sealant to every crack and seam you see lol or do a water pour test
@@theliltibby OK, thanks for the details. That being said, it's been raining a lot, lately, and the thing is dry, so maybe it fixed itself!
Subframe rot is a major problem, these cars are made of monkey metal so depending what kind of area you live in a yearly corrosion inhibitor treatment on the subframe and the entire underside is a must. There is no option to replace the front subframe bushings either so unless you get custom poly ones specifically made you have to source and fit an entire subframe if they go.
The poly mounts are not hard to get there is someone in the Tiburon fb groups that sells them. But yes I would say no matter where you live you should be rust proofing your cars yearly or every other year, but in high rust areas as a vehicle owner you should already know that you need to do that. Not so much the cars fault as it is the owners (or past owners) fault imo. But unfortunately for older cars you have to be especially mindful since parts get discontinued when the vehicle does
But I’ll add there’s definitely fault to the factory as many are just incompetent with their under coatings from factory and the Tiburon suffers from this
Where did you get the side skirts??
I have a 2004 104k door handle inside came off very irritating because of how its connected to the lock one of the air vents randomly came off some rest near wheel a little also on rocker panel paint on the gas door peeled paint but timing belt is good haven't changed yet or water pump byt gonna need a sensor changed soon because when i put gas in car it has issues and lastly one of my gas tank straps rusted and came off now i need to replace them soon since theres only one now
Has anyone found a better exterior/interior set of door handles? I know for some vehicles there's aftermarket metal handles available but haven't seen one for this car.
Unfortunately our aftermarket hasn’t been that blessed yet. People try to 3D print them but it’s never gotten anywhere. Best you can do is be careful. Maybe glue a metal wire to the back lol
chasis get rusty and plastics really breaks, but mine 2.0, 102 kw 4 inline, 2002. 350 000 km, really has relaible engine, in mine opinion much better build and quality than many cars after 2010.
I have lpg too, but I stopped using it since, I had problem with gas, its only good for around city with lpg.
That’s great to hear for an 02, not what I would have expected. Although I feel like the v6 would have more issues trying to get up to 350k, sure I’ll find out lol other than the tick both my engine and trans run surprisingly well for their age and the fact most people don’t believe these engines are strong at all. I still stand with the build quality being good for the time but now I don’t think it holds up, the plastics are just in the wrong places where now they use stronger materials and better engineering (*cough* door handles) but there definitely are some bad built cars out there even today which is disappointing 😂 so I see what you’re saying
Nice car 😊
Hmm I was thinking the fuel pump was an issue on mine, ima probably replace the whole assembly. Do you know the part number for the little triangle plastic piece next to the side mirrors on the window? My driverside one snapped in half. I also need to know the part number for the black plastic piece under the rear bumper.
You might want to also try cleaning or testing/replacing your MAF sensor because sometimes a faulty one can mimic the symptoms of a bad fuel pump as well. Fuel issues are the worst 😂🤦🏼♀️ I don’t know the part number but if you look up tiburon A pillar trim or corner window trim it should pop up easily on eBay. Rear bumper I beleive that part might actually be part of the bumper. Try searching genuine Hyundai parts pro website that’s where I find all my part numbers
@@theliltibby yeah I already did that, car drives fine under medium throttle it is when I try getting on it, it feels sluggish now. Hmm okay because the outline of the bumpers online don't show the middle piece with the exhaust holes
@@jungillestt02 yah I had the same problem and have been going back and forth deciding what it is 🥲 discussed with a mechanic who believes my MAF is faulty but after I cleaned it it seems to work really well. So I’m down to just replacing the whole pump and the injectors or MAF Its just that they’re all expensive so I’m trying to choose wisely lol yah I hear you on the bumper that confuses me too but I haven’t been able to find the piece anywhere else separately
I replaced my maf a while back do to water dripping from the corner the hood in to the intake filter and getting sucked in 😭
Love the car and how it looks, I am thinkikg about buying one it will be my first tiburon but I wanted to ask you and amyone that has owned one if it's worth it since I am a student and don't have that much money to modify it but more to maintain aspect, like it is going to give me a lot of problems, I'm I going to be left in the side of the road, or major issues with engine or transmission, I found one is a 2008 hyundai tiburon gt v6 with 145k miles, it has some dents and scratches a see some rust not that serious but it is still rust but I wanted to ask you if it is worth it for $1500 dollars and how long you think is going to last if well taken care of thanks 🙏🏼 😊
IMO it won’t leave you on the side of the road unless something significant breaks and that won’t happen given you keep up with the maintenance. The problem is older cars in general (especially high mileage) will require more maintenance more frequently than a newer car would, that’s the trade off. Cheap to buy expensive to maintain vs expensive to buy & covered by warranty. If you’re buying one with high miles you need to be specifically more careful. Mine has 145k on it and I’ve replaced the battery twice, suspension, all rotors pads and calipers, spark plugs, timing belts, O2 sensors, AC, brake flush etc Most of that can run you 400-800$ a pop. Definitely make sure they have records of all that being done or else it might be you that has a bunch of components past overdue for replacement. A pre purchase inspection will save you from that surprise as well
every single coupe I see the spoiler has peel on them. I think its because then wing is plastic and the body is fibreglass? its worth getting repainted or wrapped
The bumpers, mirrors and wing are plastic and everything else is aluminum. I think it’s a mix of cheap paint and sun damage since the wings and mirrors all get full sun while with the bumpers don’t
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Is the hesitation on the sunroof opening not just fighting against the one touch facility?. I used to keep the sunroof opening button depressed and it would judder it's way open until I figured out it's a one touch switch and you only have to press and hold it for a second and then let it go and the sunroof opens smoothly.
Yes this is exactly what happens, it’s a one touch. But it’s not a one touch to close and it will hesitate with that, sometimes opening as well even if you do the one touch it will stop or not perform the full function, on the odd time. I’ve seen it fixed with a quick clean of the circuit board contacts
@@theliltibby It took me 4 years to figure out it was a one touch opening switch, once I worked it out it was much smoother to open.
@@rodpanhard yah same exact thing happened to me 😂
Have you ever seen a your new car?
A new Tiburon?
I don't understand why every comment I write is removed
I was looking to buy one of these, but it has 183k miles (294km) on it. Do you think I Should I still buy it?
I wouldn’t risk it unless it’s extremely well kept and has extensive records to show it’s been cared for all those miles
Where did u get your front bumper splitter?
From a local Jspec, it’s a Subaru wrx sti CS type splitter and it was modified to fit. You can find them on eBay, I link it in my first video
Wait so u have to modify it after you buy it?
Nvm yeah just saw the video. Like so good tho 😢
@@CesarIbarra11 yes because it’s not for the car but it can be shortened to fit with some strategic work lol. The curves work but it’s too wide
Lights on dashboard battery and Abs keep blinking on and off
Alternator dying
Where did you get the LED side indicators ?
Shark racing led side markers
where did you get the headlight eyebrows?
Linked in the description of my build breakdown video
What is a lifter flick?
It’s the hydronic lifters or tappets in the engine having a leak or needing adjustment which makes them not work efficiently. Usually for these it’s only on cold starts so it’s a matter of the oil getting to it fast enough and warming up and then it’ll go away, but it the engine constantly ticks then it might need replacing. I’ve had it get better with different types of oil or oil treatment so it can coat the engine faster but it usually comes back. They’re kinda complicated to manage unless you fully address it with a top end rebuild basically
Tiburones. That's pural for shark in spanish.
Dude mine had a check engine for the gas cap i replaced it n its still there
@@killerinstinctkillerinstin6961 do you have an intake? I’d also scan it again and see if there’s a different code. Or clear the code and see if it comes back
@@theliltibby i remember i tried clearing it but it wouldnt let me it said had no check engine but the check engine was still on should i go for a full drive cycle??
@@theliltibby also search up jumdoo or jumboo bodykit it looks so fire on the tiburon
I recently got a 07 Tiburon Gt V6 with 123,000 should I replace the timing belt ?
If you have no record of it being done previously then yes
@@theliltibby thank you 🙏🏾
Cant find any nice cool tail light for this bad boy
Tuscani customs has one that’s a kit, shark racing has an entire retrofitted tail light
How is the car holding up
Very good description I love the breakdown and organized effort good car content car is clean and video gets down
Car is fine besides being in an accident 😂
Where did you get your led side markers from? Mine are gross looking dome ones on my 2007, would love to get ones like yours.
They’re from sharkracing, I link them in my first video but they raised the price and made the quality better so they’re up there now
So is it worth it or naw
@@VhchcHhvhv watch my latest video
what wheel size do you have?
17x7 right now they’re stock GT wheels
Um the water pump
Goes with the timing belt same intervals
Common Problems with the Hyundai Tiburon GT:
the Hyundai Tiburon GT
is €4000 to much for a normal 2003 tiburon automatic?
I’d say so unless it’s low miles and very good condition inside & out
@@theliltibby thanks for responding. ill keep searching
I got an 03 for £2500 64k miles on the clock
@@xrtuned I had seen had 240,000 km (dont know what that is in miles)
@@_SPR1GZY that’s 150k miles. Mine has 240k kms now, but for a car that’s 4 years older I wouldn’t be paying 4k for it. Just the age alone with the high mileage, it’s a risk for a lot of failures (unless low miles & well taken care of so you know there’s less risk) if it’s got 150k on it & it has rust, stains, paint fade & ripped interior or nasty looking engine bay you know it hasn’t been. That’s like maybe 1500-2k range
how much?
How much what?
@@theliltibby car?
@@mertoral3318 I paid 7k CAD for it when I got it, if I sold it now it would probably be for like 5k
Where could I get a key fob for the low cs I got the same car
The fob is from a 2 way alarm system from compustar, there is also viper that has a similar one but none are really that cheap, although older models might be if you can find them
best looking coupe ill make mine a copy of yours ong hahaha
You forgot to talk about the trash clutch these cars have. Overall...not a reliable vehicle after 100k.
I can’t speak on the manuals but the autos are fine. 150k miles (245k kms) no problems with the engine or transmission. Never seen a check engine light in 6 yrs of ownership 🤷🏼♀️keep on top of maintenance as a car owner should, don’t buy a beat up example and you’ll be fine. But an old car is an old car. If you can’t afford the increase in maintenance don’t buy an old car. Unless it’s a Honda
Who you think you iz, girl........ Vin Diesel?!!
Vin Diesel makes yt videos about his cars common problems? 😂 missed that part of f&f
I bought one.. 2008... wish me luck ...
I still have my 2006 V6 GT 156K it's mint still had to replace the camshaft sensor. Hey girl, put a aupercharger in it and eat vettes ans pretty much everybody. That is a Delta GK 2.7. 1996-2008 RIP Tiburon shark. Got a spare 8k? It's a fucking bullet supercar, bet. Low 7s. I dont have a sunroof, i could get one installed. I have a Lancer Evo too 😉. Nice ride, hope you still have it. Treat it well. Maintenence and park it in the garage.
had this car very cheaply made