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I have my great grandfathers 1899 Barber half that he carried around in his pocket for years and it's probably AG-3 condition..That is what started me collecting coins when I was 5 or 6 years old I'm almost 55 now. I would really love to start a coin shop here in Ashland, OH it is something I always have dreams of doing since I was a kid.
Coins like these have been the a major consistency of my collecting since I was a little kid. Sure I like buying nicer more valuable coins, but not everything is about value. Sometimes something is just interesting because of what it is. So I never pass up the dollar bins. There's always some token, some trade dollar from an event, or an old nickel I need, or a Queen Vicky large penny in there. How can I resist digging through that? I collect canada type coins (lots of comemoratives) and I'll sometimes find the little first day issue cards with a comemorative $1 or $2 coin that was one of the first 5-10K business strikes. That's a really cheap, easy way to get an MS-65/66 example of a modern coin that's hard to find in change above like MS-63 anymore. Otherwise you have to buy a whole mint roll or graded ones for like $30-40. Bargain bins for the wins! Thank's for sharing!
Wow....I'm learning from your videos! I spotted that counterfeit! Around my area, the dealers would low ball you for the "good" stuff and pass on everything else. Thanks for sharing, Daniel! 👍
I'm working on my Dansco Album for Lincoln Memorial Cents + Proofs (and I have Harris folders for all pennies 1857 to current) and I look for the best possible pennies to go in them, which is why I find some of this stuff to be of value. I recognize that I probably don't have much competition, as most coin collectors don't really focus on something like that, but it's fun for me, and it's easy and affordable to do. I do collect various silver dollars and 1 oz coins, but the albums bring me a lot of enjoyment.
Thanks for sharing Daniel. Love the pickup videos. Some nice coins there. Folks look to buy type coins to help build their sets and you have them. It always makes me sad to see an impaired proof as it will never will be the coin it once was.
@CoinHELPu 7:12 I have over 100 of it. Around 10-15 swiss francs usually where i live. Depends which year, condition and mint mark. Usually the ones without the head of Paul von Hindenburg from 1936-1939 with the eagle and the "Hakenkreuz" (in german) are a bit more expensive.
Do you buy every coin that comes into the shop? Are there times when you refuse coins? I didn't see any foreign coins. Do you buy foreign coins or just those with silver in them?
It's unfortunate the seller bought that fake Seated Liberty half for $180. The three best coins in this accumulation are the Shield nickel and the two half dimes. I don't like the color of the German coin--it almost looks like a cast copy. So what would I do? If I had time I'd sit with the seller and advise him about the value of most of those other coins and tokens. I used to work part time in a stamp store. We'd have people who would bring in their collections and want to know what they're worth. Just like in coins, the vast majority of stamps were common or damaged.
I was like is that a seated quarter with a large date? Or something... When u turned it over I instantly knew it was fake. Probably obvious to alot of viewers. Way wrong size. $180? You have to study anything that your going to collect or you will get fleeced.
YOur point about impaired proofs is a very good one - those types of coin are strange in that some proofs are commonly put into circulation due to how common they are. Usually clad proofs from 1971 through the early 2000's can be found coin roll searching over time - and once in a great while from change (recently a vending machine spouted out a well-used 1987 clad Washington quarter - decided to keep it as a curiosity). There is one exception --- the "lowball" collectors may be interested in an impaired proof just because the likelihood of the population of such coins being lower than those proofs preserved or never put into circulation. For the years 1971 - early 2000 sales of clad proof sets were high 1 - 3 million - so not sure about the value of impaired proofs. I hold onto them figuring in a few decades new collectors seeking bargain may want a grab bag of impaired proofs to start their collection OR some lowball collectors want to add them to their own acquisitions. Curious to hear more of your thoughts on impaired proofs.
I don't know why that is important to you, but I can assure you it is a D mint mark. Denver mint Kennedy halves are more reflective, as are most Denver mint coins.
@@CoinHELPu You are right; I stand corrected. Sorry for the misunderstanding. There is a freeze-frame in which it looks like a P. I even magnified the image and that happened to be the exact place I froze it. Had I been a fraction of a second before or after it was a D. Again, sorry.
Final thought - the capped bust half dime for $35 shows that for common coins in very circulated condition to start to have a decent premium required at least over 150 years from its issue to achieve this.
It doesn't take 150 years for common coins to have a premium, it much more complicated than that. All the silver melts, low mintages, collector's demand, their popularity, etc. RUclips comments are not a good place for this, I've several videos on why coins are valuable.
@@CoinHELPu I agree it is more complicated but one can use the 150 rule as a very broad one for WELL-CIRCULATED common coins that are neither varieties nor errors (something I omitted in my first comment) --- and I mean very common ones. It is a good rule for those extremely new to collecting - from that point you can then go into factors such as collector demand, mintages, whether they have undergone a large melt. The 150 year rule has the very new to coins realize that something from 1900 in well-circulated condition is not necessarily worth that much - the Indian Head pennies you showed demonstrate that. And I am very well aware of your past videos on coin value --- I have been collecting for several yers pursuing such areas as WLBs in uncirculated conditions from 1933 - 1947. getting a few of each Gold dollar (the more common dates which is what I could afford but aiming for unc or AU condition), the American Innovation dollar coins, coins from Palestine and then bullion coins from a few countries. I do not colelct solely for investment as shown by me buying from the US Mint Uncirculated sets and a silver proof or clad proof set. I know I am facing a loss (although proof sets -- especially silver -from about 2012 onwards have not suffered the the drop in value those from the 1990's did and even recent clad sets do a bit better than those from about 1971 - early 2000. My theory is 1) mintage for silver and clad sets after 2012 have been close to or well below 500,000 with recent years showing sales around 300,000 on average ) the growth of registry set coin collectors seeking the highest grade proofs to compete against other collectors 3) silver and gold have been in an overall inflationary period since 1943 and after the run up in 2011 to over $40 seems to be showing signs of slowly increasing in value since about the most recent low point in 2016. So the silver proof sets have attracted bullion collectors.
The reason for some common coins to be more valuable, is lower mintages and hoarding or melting, not 150 years. 150 years isn't a relative measurement when there's so may other factors to consider, even the coin's size can factor in to less survived. Other metrics are much more into play than 150 years or so. People get the bright idea that a 1909 wheat cent is going to be worth much more in 35 years, since that's the 150 year mark. It will be worth more but not because of a 150 years, it's worth more now than it was in 1960's. It's more inflation, demand, popularity, etc., there's just no 150 year measure.
@@CoinHELPu As I replied it is very, very broad rule for those very new to coins to help them understand the very point you have made regarding the 1909 Lincoln cent. I am not saying it is the be all or end all but a good guideline - that may be a better term. And yes, mintages and demand play a larger role for some coins but when someone is starting out they may get overwhelmed. It would be ONLY applicable to someone who has little or no understanding of numismatics and little time. I would advise them to do this as you will be likely to have the majority of your coinage from 150 years ago composed of some or much precious metal (silver and gold), the time span is sufficient to give a decent premium to many low denomination coins. That is all. I am actually in agreement with you that my guideline of 150 years fails if you want to get a very accurate idea of your coins worth. To give and example an 1874 Indian Head cent - brown color in well-circulated condition with all large and important details present will run about $50 versus a 2020 Lincoln Shield cent in the same condition (yes mintages are very different, the former in the tens of millions, the latter in the billions and demand for the former is of course higher but someone interested in mainly liquidating a collection would likely not want too many details of mintage, demand and condition). A second example are half dimes from the mid 19th century - they had for some years 90% silver, in the 20th and 21st century you only had silver in 5 cent pieces (the equivalent value of a half dime) during the WW2 years and then only for a few of them and the amount of silver was 35% of its metallic composition. And yes this 150 year guideline would need to change in the future with coinage after 1940's for cents and all coinage after 1965 due to the massive increase in mintages and eventual removal of all precious metals in coins by 1965. But the present owner of a coin collections of well circulated coins who simply wants to get rid of it I would ask they simply pull coins over 150 years old - it can then give the buyer a better idea of what is in the collection than if they simply dump it on your with folders, bags, albums and tins.
And lastly one idea for a video - maybe offer one or two videos just providing the bare overview of US coinage that was produced - simply denomination and metallic composition. You can add simply that as the US population grew the long term trend was for coin production to increase. You could divide it into era say Pre-colonial to the Gold Rush 1849, then 1849 - 1933 (when gold coins were no longer produced and gold ownership severely curtailed), followed by the period of 1934 - 1969 (last coin having precious metal in it was in circulation) and then 1970 to present (all circulating in base metals and the rise of bullion and NIFC coinage).
Why did the 1919 S have a "W" on it? BTW, I think there should be a series of coins commemorating Honest Politicians of National Stature and Achievement; it would, of course, be a VERY limited series and would never include Joe Biden.
The W is the designer initials, let me make a recommendation, buy a 2025 Red Book price guide and you will learn more in that book than anything else. It will also get your head out of politics for a while, this is a coin channel BTW.
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If You Worked In A Coin Shop These Are The Coins You Buy
BUY COINS From Us portsmouthcoinshop.com/
Go to our help community here for coin help coinauctionshelp.com/forum/index.php
More videos! www.youtube.com/@CoinHELPu/videos
Join CONECA conecaonline.org/
I have a 1941 wheat Penny on the back side It has a very new gold look and the front looks like old wheat Penny is that rare coin ?
I still get smarter in this hobby everyday thank you Daniel!
To me, this represents the joy of coin collecting.
I'm primarily a stacker, but I dabble in numismatics. Your videos are educational, and interesting. Thank you for what you do.😊
I have my great grandfathers 1899 Barber half that he carried around in his pocket for years and it's probably AG-3 condition..That is what started me collecting coins when I was 5 or 6 years old I'm almost 55 now. I would really love to start a coin shop here in Ashland, OH it is something I always have dreams of doing since I was a kid.
The counterfeit was interesting.
There was a couple nice ones in that lot. Thanks for sharing. 😎👍
Coins like these have been the a major consistency of my collecting since I was a little kid. Sure I like buying nicer more valuable coins, but not everything is about value. Sometimes something is just interesting because of what it is. So I never pass up the dollar bins. There's always some token, some trade dollar from an event, or an old nickel I need, or a Queen Vicky large penny in there. How can I resist digging through that?
I collect canada type coins (lots of comemoratives) and I'll sometimes find the little first day issue cards with a comemorative $1 or $2 coin that was one of the first 5-10K business strikes. That's a really cheap, easy way to get an MS-65/66 example of a modern coin that's hard to find in change above like MS-63 anymore. Otherwise you have to buy a whole mint roll or graded ones for like $30-40. Bargain bins for the wins!
Thank's for sharing!
Thank you for sharing Daniel.
Wow....I'm learning from your videos! I spotted that counterfeit!
Around my area, the dealers would low ball you for the "good" stuff and pass on everything else.
Thanks for sharing, Daniel! 👍
Daniel, the coins are beautiful., regardless of the grade. The stories they could tell.
Great share Daniel!
Great information thanks Daniel 👍
I'm working on my Dansco Album for Lincoln Memorial Cents + Proofs (and I have Harris folders for all pennies 1857 to current) and I look for the best possible pennies to go in them, which is why I find some of this stuff to be of value. I recognize that I probably don't have much competition, as most coin collectors don't really focus on something like that, but it's fun for me, and it's easy and affordable to do. I do collect various silver dollars and 1 oz coins, but the albums bring me a lot of enjoyment.
Very interesting. Have a great day Sir Daniel!
I would LOVE TO WORK IN A COIN SHOP and then go to places as a dealer where the public isn't allowed, the so called back room.😂
I liked the 1867 Shield Nickel and the 1872 Seated half dime best.
I only have one error coin, I never was attracted to errors. New Sub
Thanks for sharing Daniel. Love the pickup videos. Some nice coins there. Folks look to buy type coins to help build their sets and you have them. It always makes me sad to see an impaired proof as it will never will be the coin it once was.
@CoinHELPu
7:12 I have over 100 of it. Around 10-15 swiss francs usually where i live. Depends which year, condition and mint mark. Usually the ones without the head of Paul von Hindenburg from 1936-1939 with the eagle and the "Hakenkreuz" (in german) are a bit more expensive.
Thank you
Do you buy every coin that comes into the shop? Are there times when you refuse coins? I didn't see any foreign coins. Do you buy foreign coins or just those with silver in them?
I will if the coins are badly cleaned unless it's silver or gold. I don't buy the pocket change either.
Good morning, Daniel. Nice video on what can be found in buying a small collection. Thanks for showing us. Hope you have a great day.
It's unfortunate the seller bought that fake Seated Liberty half for $180. The three best coins in this accumulation are the Shield nickel and the two half dimes. I don't like the color of the German coin--it almost looks like a cast copy. So what would I do? If I had time I'd sit with the seller and advise him about the value of most of those other coins and tokens. I used to work part time in a stamp store. We'd have people who would bring in their collections and want to know what they're worth. Just like in coins, the vast majority of stamps were common or damaged.
Looks like stuff to mainly sell on WhatNot
Good morning Daniel
I was like is that a seated quarter with a large date? Or something... When u turned it over I instantly knew it was fake. Probably obvious to alot of viewers. Way wrong size. $180? You have to study anything that your going to collect or you will get fleeced.
Some of those were nice coins might make a low value grab bag there was some silver there
guy gave away his grandpa's lucky penny
Good morning Daniel. Where is the place that sells it Daniel ?
Nice info
I saw maybe 4 coins I would pay for.
There's no way I would have been able to tell the fake unless it was stamped copy . Still though great coins to collect.
YOur point about impaired proofs is a very good one - those types of coin are strange in that some proofs are commonly put into circulation due to how common they are. Usually clad proofs from 1971 through the early 2000's can be found coin roll searching over time - and once in a great while from change (recently a vending machine spouted out a well-used 1987 clad Washington quarter - decided to keep it as a curiosity). There is one exception --- the "lowball" collectors may be interested in an impaired proof just because the likelihood of the population of such coins being lower than those proofs preserved or never put into circulation. For the years 1971 - early 2000 sales of clad proof sets were high 1 - 3 million - so not sure about the value of impaired proofs. I hold onto them figuring in a few decades new collectors seeking bargain may want a grab bag of impaired proofs to start their collection OR some lowball collectors want to add them to their own acquisitions. Curious to hear more of your thoughts on impaired proofs.
I go to flea markets and dicker on the price and the dealer and I agree and I walk away with the coins and resell at a huge profit
Good catch on the fake I saw it
Auction the whole lot off to highest bidder, US coin and tokens, unsearch
would like to know what scope you use
I am not using a scope, I am using a camera.
Dealing with this mostly modern junk day by day must be brushing my BORING!
Not boring at all, but very time consuming.
I think that 87 Kennedy was a P not a D as you described. Either way, NIFC and I usually save those if I come across them.
I don't know why that is important to you, but I can assure you it is a D mint mark. Denver mint Kennedy halves are more reflective, as are most Denver mint coins.
@@CoinHELPu You are right; I stand corrected. Sorry for the misunderstanding. There is a freeze-frame in which it looks like a P. I even magnified the image and that happened to be the exact place I froze it. Had I been a fraction of a second before or after it was a D. Again, sorry.
Final thought - the capped bust half dime for $35 shows that for common coins in very circulated condition to start to have a decent premium required at least over 150 years from its issue to achieve this.
It doesn't take 150 years for common coins to have a premium, it much more complicated than that. All the silver melts, low mintages, collector's demand, their popularity, etc. RUclips comments are not a good place for this, I've several videos on why coins are valuable.
@@CoinHELPu I agree it is more complicated but one can use the 150 rule as a very broad one for WELL-CIRCULATED common coins that are neither varieties nor errors (something I omitted in my first comment) --- and I mean very common ones. It is a good rule for those extremely new to collecting - from that point you can then go into factors such as collector demand, mintages, whether they have undergone a large melt. The 150 year rule has the very new to coins realize that something from 1900 in well-circulated condition is not necessarily worth that much - the Indian Head pennies you showed demonstrate that.
And I am very well aware of your past videos on coin value --- I have been collecting for several yers pursuing such areas as WLBs in uncirculated conditions from 1933 - 1947. getting a few of each Gold dollar (the more common dates which is what I could afford but aiming for unc or AU condition), the American Innovation dollar coins, coins from Palestine and then bullion coins from a few countries. I do not colelct solely for investment as shown by me buying from the US Mint Uncirculated sets and a silver proof or clad proof set. I know I am facing a loss (although proof sets -- especially silver -from about 2012 onwards have not suffered the the drop in value those from the 1990's did and even recent clad sets do a bit better than those from about 1971 - early 2000. My theory is 1) mintage for silver and clad sets after 2012 have been close to or well below 500,000 with recent years showing sales around 300,000 on average ) the growth of registry set coin collectors seeking the highest grade proofs to compete against other collectors 3) silver and gold have been in an overall inflationary period since 1943 and after the run up in 2011 to over $40 seems to be showing signs of slowly increasing in value since about the most recent low point in 2016. So the silver proof sets have attracted bullion collectors.
The reason for some common coins to be more valuable, is lower mintages and hoarding or melting, not 150 years. 150 years isn't a relative measurement when there's so may other factors to consider, even the coin's size can factor in to less survived. Other metrics are much more into play than 150 years or so. People get the bright idea that a 1909 wheat cent is going to be worth much more in 35 years, since that's the 150 year mark.
It will be worth more but not because of a 150 years, it's worth more now than it was in 1960's. It's more inflation, demand, popularity, etc., there's just no 150 year measure.
@@CoinHELPu As I replied it is very, very broad rule for those very new to coins to help them understand the very point you have made regarding the 1909 Lincoln cent. I am not saying it is the be all or end all but a good guideline - that may be a better term. And yes, mintages and demand play a larger role for some coins but when someone is starting out they may get overwhelmed. It would be ONLY applicable to someone who has little or no understanding of numismatics and little time. I would advise them to do this as you will be likely to have the majority of your coinage from 150 years ago composed of some or much precious metal (silver and gold), the time span is sufficient to give a decent premium to many low denomination coins. That is all. I am actually in agreement with you that my guideline of 150 years fails if you want to get a very accurate idea of your coins worth. To give and example an 1874 Indian Head cent - brown color in well-circulated condition with all large and important details present will run about $50 versus a 2020 Lincoln Shield cent in the same condition (yes mintages are very different, the former in the tens of millions, the latter in the billions and demand for the former is of course higher but someone interested in mainly liquidating a collection would likely not want too many details of mintage, demand and condition). A second example are half dimes from the mid 19th century - they had for some years 90% silver, in the 20th and 21st century you only had silver in 5 cent pieces (the equivalent value of a half dime) during the WW2 years and then only for a few of them and the amount of silver was 35% of its metallic composition.
And yes this 150 year guideline would need to change in the future with coinage after 1940's for cents and all coinage after 1965 due to the massive increase in mintages and eventual removal of all precious metals in coins by 1965.
But the present owner of a coin collections of well circulated coins who simply wants to get rid of it I would ask they simply pull coins over 150 years old - it can then give the buyer a better idea of what is in the collection than if they simply dump it on your with folders, bags, albums and tins.
And lastly one idea for a video - maybe offer one or two videos just providing the bare overview of US coinage that was produced - simply denomination and metallic composition. You can add simply that as the US population grew the long term trend was for coin production to increase. You could divide it into era say Pre-colonial to the Gold Rush 1849, then 1849 - 1933 (when gold coins were no longer produced and gold ownership severely curtailed), followed by the period of 1934 - 1969 (last coin having precious metal in it was in circulation) and then 1970 to present (all circulating in base metals and the rise of bullion and NIFC coinage).
Why did the 1919 S have a "W" on it? BTW, I think there should be a series of coins commemorating Honest Politicians of National Stature and Achievement; it would, of course, be a VERY limited series and would never include Joe Biden.
The W is the designer initials, let me make a recommendation, buy a 2025 Red Book price guide and you will learn more in that book than anything else. It will also get your head out of politics for a while, this is a coin channel BTW.